The First Expedition to Mount Everest (Illustrated Edition)

The First Expedition to Mount Everest (Illustrated Edition)
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This eBook has been formatted to the highest digital standards and adjusted for readability on all devices. The 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition set off to explore how it might be possible to get to the vicinity of Mount Everest, to reconnoiter possible routes for ascending the mountain, and – if possible – make the first ascent of the highest mountain in the world. A feasible route was discovered from the east up the Kharta Glacier and then crossing the Lhakpa La pass north east of Everest. It was then necessary to descend to the East Rongbuk Glacier before climbing again to Everest's North Col. Initially the expedition explored from the north and discovered the main Rongbuk Glacier, only to find that it seemed to provide no likely routes to the summit. However, at the time it was not realised that the East Rongbuk glacier actually flowed into the Rongbuk glacier – it was thought it descended away to the east. As a reconnaissance the expedition was a success because it determined that a good route might be to approach the East Rongbuk glacier via the Rongbuk glacier, and then follow the North Col route to the summit.

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Charles Kenneth Howard-Bury. The First Expedition to Mount Everest (Illustrated Edition)

The First Expedition to Mount Everest (Illustrated Edition)

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

PREFACE

INTRODUCTION

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION

CHAPTER I. FROM DARJEELING THROUGH SIKKIM

CHAPTER II. THE CHUMBI VALLEY AND THE TIBETAN PLATEAU

CHAPTER III. FROM KHAMBA DZONG THROUGH UNKNOWN COUNTRY TO TINGRI

CHAPTER IV. TINGRI AND THE COUNTRY TO THE SOUTH

CHAPTER V. THE SEARCH FOR KHARTA

CHAPTER VI. THE MOVE TO KHARTA

CHAPTER VII. THE KAMA VALLEY

CHAPTER VIII. THE UPPER KHARTA VALLEY AND THE 20,000 FOOT CAMP

CHAPTER IX. THE RETURN TO KHARTA BY THE KAMA VALLEY

CHAPTER X. THE RETURN JOURNEY TO PHARI

CHAPTER XI. BACK TO CIVILISATION

THE RECONNAISSANCE OF THE MOUNTAIN

CHAPTER XII. THE NORTHERN APPROACH

CHAPTER XIII. THE NORTHERN APPROACH—continued

CHAPTER XIV. THE EASTERN APPROACH

CHAPTER XV. THE ASSAULT

CHAPTER XVI. WEATHER AND CONDITION OF SNOW

CHAPTER XVII. THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT

NATURAL HISTORY

CHAPTER XVIII. AN EXCURSION TO NYENYAM AND LAPCHE KANG

CHAPTER XIX. NATURAL HISTORY NOTES

CHAPTER XX. AN APPRECIATION OF THE RECONNAISSANCE. By Professor NORMAN COLLIE, F.R.S. President of the Alpine Club

APPENDIX I. THE SURVEY. By Major H. T. MORSHEAD, D.S.O

APPENDIX II. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC SURVEY. By Major E. O. WHEELER, M.C

APPENDIX IV. THE SCIENTIFIC EQUIPMENT. By A. R. HINKS, F.R.S., Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society

APPENDIX V. MAMMALS, BIRDS AND PLANTS COLLECTED BY THE EXPEDITION. By A. F. R. WOLLASTON

Footnotes

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Charles Kenneth Howard-Bury

INTRODUCTION

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APPENDIX II

APPENDIX IV

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