The doctrine of local food is dead. Farmers’ markets are merely a lifestyle choice for the affluent middle classes. And ‘organic’ has become little more than a marketing label that is way past its sell by date. That may be a little hard to swallow for the ethically-aware food shopper but it doesn’t make it any less true. And now the UK’s most outspoken and entertaining food writer is ready to explain why.This engaging, witty and honest narrative is driven by the appetite of one large man: Jay Rayner – someone who lives to eat, but also understands that there is a world beyond the high-end obsessions of the farmers’ market. Combining sharply-observed memoir – growing up with the UK’s most famous agony aunt who also happened to be a bloody good TV chef; witnessing the arrival of McDonald’s and Dayville’s ice cream in Seventies London; working as a butcher’s boy – with hard-nosed reportage, Jay Rayner will blow conventional foodie wisdom apart. For here is the reality: within a few decades we will have nine billion mouths to feed, and we won’t be doing that by flogging free-range eggs from a stall in Borough market.Jay explains why the doctrine of organic has been eclipsed by the need for sustainable intensification; and why the future lies in large-scale food production rather than the cottage industries that foodies often cheer for. From the the cornfields of Illinois to the killing lines of Yorkshire abattoirs, Rayner takes us on a journey that will change the way we shop, cook and eat forever. And give us a few belly laughs along the way.
Оглавление
Jay Rayner. A Greedy Man in a Hungry World: How
DEDICATION
CONTENTS
AUTHOR’S NOTE
1. THE £31 CHICKEN
2. SUPERMARKETS ARE NOT EVIL
A SHORT HISTORY OF A FOOD REVOLUTION
3. SUPERMARKETS ARE EVIL
4. FINDING THE CHINESE IN KIGALI
5. SLOW BOAT TO ELLIS ISLAND
IS THAT A PHONE IN YOUR POCKET OR ARE YOU JUST PLEASED TO SEE ME?
A SHORT, SPITTLE-FLECKED RANT ABOUT BLOODY BIOFUELS
6. IS SMALL ALWAYS BEAUTIFUL?
WHATEVER COMES NATURALLY
THE CAMPAIGN FOR REAL ARGUMENTS
7. THE CURSE OF THE SPAGHETTI MARROW
8. SOMETHING TO CHEW ON
STOP! PLEASE! I CAN’T KEEP UP
9. N IS FOR NARCOTICS
10. THE SUMMER THEY STOPPED EATING
11. A NEW GASTRONOMICS
EPILOGUE. THE £17.25 PIZZA
POSTSCRIPT
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
BY THE SAME AUTHOR
JAY RAYNER
COPYRIGHT
ABOUT THE PUBLISHER
Отрывок из книги
For Sarah and Jerry, who have always fed me well.
TITLE PAGE
.....
We need to get real. The term ‘food security’ is occasionally bandied around, but it has failed to take its place right at the heart of our conversation about what and how we eat, even though it has to be there. Because, be in no doubt: a combination of world population growth – expected to hit nine billion by 2050 – climate change, appallingly misguided policies on biofuels and an ingrained Luddite response in parts of the West to biotechnology risks coming together into a perfect storm; one which will make the sight of young chefs on the telly talking about their passion for cooking and their commitment to local and seasonal ingredients sound like the screeching of fiddles while Rome burns. According to the United Nations, by 2030 we will need to be producing 50 per cent more food, and a system built around that holy trinity of local, seasonal and organic simply won’t cut it.
Indeed, while self-appointed food campaigners are banging on about that, an entirely different conversation has been going on elsewhere, within university faculties and government departments as well as at an inter-governmental level. In that world they use not three words, but two: sustainable intensification. It is about the need to produce more food, in as sustainable a manner as possible, which means thinking about far more than just how close to you your food was produced. It’s about carbon inputs all the way down the production system. It’s about water usage, land maintenance and the careful application of science. According to Oxfam, between 1970 and 1990 global agricultural yield grew 2 per cent a year. Between 1990 and 2007 the yield growth dropped to 1 per cent. We are close to a standstill on producing more food, and that is not a good place to be. In January 2011 the British government’s Chief Scientific Adviser, Sir John Beddington, published a major report entitled ‘The Future of Food and Farming’. It drew on the work of dozens of experts; over 100 peer-reviewed papers were commissioned in its writing. In that report there were 39 references to ‘sustainable intensification’, and the single word ‘sustainability’ cropped up 242 times. Where food is concerned there is a new lexicon, and it has nothing to with farmers’ markets or growing your own vegetables or fruit.
