The Scent of Empires

The Scent of Empires
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Can a drop of perfume tell the story of the twentieth century? Can a smell bear the traces of history? What can we learn about the history of the twentieth century by examining the fate of perfumes? In this remarkable book, Karl Schlögel unravels the interconnected histories of two of the world’s most celebrated perfumes. In tsarist Russia, two French perfumers – Ernest Beaux and Auguste Michel – developed related fragrances honouring Catherine the Great for the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty. During the Russian Revolution and Civil War, Beaux fled Russia and took the formula for his perfume with him to France, where he sought to adapt it to his new French circumstances. He presented Coco Chanel with a series of ten fragrance samples in his laboratory and, after smelling each, she chose number five – the scent that would later go by the name Chanel No. 5. Meanwhile, as the perfume industry was being revived in Soviet Russia, Auguste Michel used his original fragrance to create Red Moscow for the tenth anniversary of the Revolution. Piecing together the intertwined histories of these two famous perfumes, which shared a common origin, Schlögel tells a surprising story of power, intrigue and betrayal that offers an altogether unique perspective on the turbulent events and high politics of the twentieth century. This brilliant account of perfume and politics in twentieth-century Europe will be of interest to a wide general readership.

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Karl Schlögel. The Scent of Empires

CONTENTS

Guide

List of Illustrations

Pages

The Scent of Empires. Chanel No. 5 and Red Moscow

Dedication

Extracurricular activity

Notes

The scent of the empire, or how Le Bouquet de Catherine from 1913 led to Chanel No. 5 and the Soviet perfume Red Moscow after the Russian Revolution

Notes

Scentscapes: Proust’s madeleine and historiography

Notes

When ‘the weakest link breaks in the imperialist chain’ (Lenin): the world of scents and the olfactory revolution

Notes

Departure from thebelle époqueand clothes for the New Woman: Chanel’s and Lamanova’s double revolution

Notes

Chanel’s Russian connection

Notes

French connection in Moscow? The ‘fatherland of workers’ and traces of Mikhail Bulgakov

Notes

Auguste Michel’s incomplete project: a Palace of Soviets perfume

Notes

The seductive scent of power: Coco Chanel and Polina Zhemchuzhina-Molotova – two careers in the twentieth century

Notes

From another world: the smoke of the crematoria and the smell of Kolyma

Notes

After the war: man cannot live on bread alone – the New Look and Stilyagi

Notes

Excursus: thegrande dameof German film Olga Chekhova, cosmetics and the dream of eternal youth

Notes

How One World smells

Notes

Not only theBlack Square: Malevich’s perfume bottle

Notes

Bibliography

Index. A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

R

S

T

U

V

W

Y

Z

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Karl Schlögel

Translated by Jessica Spengler

.....

Much about the perfume is shrouded in uncertainty, including how Chanel No. 5 developed from this point onwards. This has to do with the nature of an industry that relies on secrecy, as demonstrated not least by Patrick Süskind’s novel Perfume. But its composition alone does not explain the stupendous success of Chanel No. 5. Many other things had to happen for this to be possible, as we will see. Chanel No. 5 is the product of what Karl Lagerfeld refers to as the ‘Russian connection’ in his homage to Coco Chanel, meaning it is more than just the sum of Chanel, Beaux and Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich.11 Ernest Beaux used his original Russian creation as a starting point, but he went on to develop a clearer, bolder fragrance.

It captured the scents of Moscow and Saint Petersburg and Dmitri’s gilded childhood. It was the exquisite freshness of the Arctic remembered during the last days of a fading empire. Above all, for Coco Chanel, here was an entire catalogue of the senses – the scents of crisp linen and warm skin, the odors of Aubazine and Royallieu, and all those memories of Boy and Émilienne. It was truly her signature perfume. Like her, it even had a past that was obscure and complicated.12

.....

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