Оглавление
Andrew Whitley. Bread Matters: The sorry state of modern bread and a definitive guide to baking your own
Bread Matters the State of Modern Bread and a Definitive Guide to Baking your Own. Andrew Whitley
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER ONE WHAT’S THE MATTER WITH MODERN BREAD?
A very British loaf affair
Gut feelings
Respect
This is your loaf
Enzymes and the great ‘processing aid’ scam
Allergens
Ethical choices
Dishonest claims
Cumulative effects
How our bread has changed
Wheat
Milling methods
Yeast
About time, too
Freshness
CHAPTER TWO DOES IT REALLY MATTER WHAT BREAD WE EAT?
Mixed messages
Who decides?
The slow route to health
Nutritional enhancement and bioavailability
Counteracting anti-nutrients
Glycaemic response
Spoilage
Removal of harmful agents
Slow is beautiful
Quality, wholeness, health
Take, eat…
What can we do?
CHAPTER THREE TAKING CONTROL
Time to choose
One step at a time
The simple life
Breadmaking machines
Tools and equipment. Bowls
Polythene bags
Scales
Measuring jugs
Thermometer
Worktop
Scraper
Knife
Baking tins
Baking trays
Proving baskets and cloths
Proving baskets
Cloths
Peels
Ovens
Know your oven
A note on measures
Bakers’ percentages
Eggs
Liquids
Scaling up recipes
Substituting flours
Water temperature
Conversion tables
CHAPTER FOUR THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS
Wheat flour
Extraction rate
Protein
English wheat
Flavour
Volume
Bread machine mixes
Other flours and grains. Rye
Barley
Oats
Spelt
Kamut
Einkorn and emmer
Water
Yeast
Fresh yeast
Dried yeast
Organic yeast
Sugar
Malt
Salt
Fats and oils
Hydrogenated fat
Hard fat
Oils
CHAPTER FIVE STARTING FROM SCRATCH
Joined-up baking
The five stages of breadmaking
Mixing and kneading
Mixing
WELL-WORN ADVICE
Pre-soaking
Kneading
MACHINE OR HAND?
HAND KNEADING
DON’T WORRY ABOUT STICKY HANDS
DON’T ADD MORE FLOUR UNTIL YOU’RE SURE IT’S NEEDED
WETTER IS BETTER
TRY ‘AIR KNEADING’
USE FLOUR TO CLEAN YOUR HANDS
STICKY = BAD; SOFT = GOOD
IS IT POSSIBLE TO OVER-KNEAD?
Rising
Knocking back
Folding
Shaping
Proving
CREATING THE RIGHT CONDITIONS
Waterproof
JUDGING WHEN THE DOUGH IS READY TO GO INTO THE OVEN
Cutting
Baking
Suffer the little children
How do I know when it is baked?
Preliminary yeasted doughs
Pre-ferment
Ferment
Sponge
Biga
Poolish
Starter
Old dough
Leavens and sourdoughs
Timing it right
Straight dough
A better ‘no-time’ dough?
Slower is better
Overnight first rise
Overnight proof
Overnight sponge and dough
Daytime sponge and dough
What to do when things go wrong
CHAPTER SIX FIRST BREAD AND ROLLS
A note on ingredients
Basic Bread
Flour or seeds for the top
Bread with Old Dough
Milk Bread
Rolls
Hot rolls
Baps
Scottish Morning Rolls
CHAPTER SEVEN SIMPLE SOURDOUGH
Sourdough
‘Wild’ yeast
Lactobacilli/lactic acid bacteria
Liquid assets
Leaven
Starter
Backferment
Refreshment
Production sourdough/production leaven
Culture shock
Starting a rye sourdough
General notes about all-rye breads. Kneading and dough consistency
Rising
Shaping
Proof
Baking time
Storage and eating
Russian Rye Bread
Seeded Rye Bread
Borodinsky Bread
Troubleshooting 100 per cent rye breads
Caraway Rye Bread
Whole Grain Rye Bread
Pumpernickel
Really Simple Sourdough Bread
Starting a wheat leaven
What if nothing has happened?
French Country Bread
Variations
Hop Bread
Broon Geordie
Fruit and Nut Leaven Bread
Arkatena Bread
Starting an arkatena leaven
Making arkatena bread
Starting a spelt leaven
Spelt Bread
Too many sourdoughs?
The one and only
Cromarty Cob
Making sourdoughs work in real life
What do I do with my sourdough between baking sessions?
Constructive neglect
Intermediate refreshment
CHAPTER EIGHT BREAD – A MEAL IN ITSELF
Basic Savoury Bread Dough
Refreshing the sponge
Sun-dried Tomato and Red Onion Bread with Tamari-roasted Sunflower Seeds
Olive and Pumpkin Seed Bread
Mushroom and Garlic Bread
Cheese Bread
Altamura (Semolina) Bread
Semolina, Raisin and Fennel Bannock
CHAPTER NINE OF CRUST AND CRUMB
‘The cheapest way to make water stand upright’
Ciabatta
Crumpets
‘Let them eat cake…’
Brioche
Crust
Stotties
Crispbread
Putting on the style
CHAPTER TEN SWEET BREADS AND CELEBRATIONS
Basic Sweet Bun Dough
Hot Cross Buns
Bun Loaf
European festival breads
Basic Festive Bread Dough
Kulich
Paskha
Stollen
Schiacciata di Uva (Tuscan Harvest Bread)
CHAPTER ELEVEN EASY AS PIE
Pirozhki
Calzoni
Trenchers
Laminated dough
Croissants
Pains au chocolat
Marzipan wheels
Storing croissants
Danish Pastries
Lardy Cake
CHAPTER TWELVE GLUTEN-FREE BAKING
What’s wrong with additives?
(Dis)comfort food
Good reasons to bake gluten-free
Why gluten-free baking is different
The main ingredients
Yeasted Gluten-Free Bread
Starting a Rice Sourdough
Rice, Brazil Nut and Linseed Bread
Maintaining your rice starter
Potato and Quinoa Bread
Pizza Bases
Gluten-free Pastry
Basic Gluten-free Cake
Ginger Cake
Luxury Chocolate Cake
CHAPTER THIRTEEN GROWING OLD GRACEFULLY
How bread goes stale (or doesn’t) Starch crystallisation
Enzymes to keep bread ‘fresh’
Natural freshness
Storing bread
Reviving old bread
Uses for old bread
Aubergine and Red Pepper Bruschetta
Green Salad with Croûtons
Crumbs
Stuffing
Simple Shallot and Parsley Stuffing
Fishcakes
Charlotte Russe
Brown Bread Ice Cream
Kvas
RESOURCES
Ingredients
Equipment
Organisations
Baking Courses
NOTES. CHAPTER 1
CHAPTER 2
CHAPTER 3
CHAPTER 4
CHAPTER 5
CHAPTER 9
CHAPTER 11
CHAPTER 12
CHAPTER 13
INDEX
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Copyright
About the Publisher
