The Soviet Diet Cookbook: exploring life, culture and history – one recipe at a time
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Anna Kharzeeva. The Soviet Diet Cookbook: exploring life, culture and history – one recipe at a time
Preface
1. The Soviet breakfast of champions. Fried meat, boiled eggs, bread and cheese
2. A second breakfast. Zapekanka (fruit & cottage cheese bake)
3. After this lunch, who needs dinner. Stuffed eggplant, mushrooms in sour cream, creamed chicken soup and kompot
4. Real food and realistic expectations. Fried eggs with tomatoes and croutons
5. In praise of grechka. Buckwheat
6. A Ukrainian dish no Russian will turn down. Borscht
7. Worshipping at the altar of the Uzbek food gods. Plov
8. A necessity for the Russian cook. Sour cabbage
9. A circle of sunshine for a gray day. Pancakes with pumpkin puree
10. Thanksgiving dinner on the Soviet diet. Fried turkey, mashed potatoes, baked apple with preserves, cranberry mousse
11. Soviet comfort food. Sausages and stewed cabbage
12. The special treat nobody makes at home. Rombaba pastry
13. The breakfast all Russians love to hate. Mannaya kasha (semolina porridge)
14. Happy Soviet New Year’s eve. Olivier salad, biskvit
15. The Caucasian answer to long winter nights. Bouzbash (lamb soup)
16. The tasty solution for leftover cottage cheese. Tvorozhniki/syrniki
17. An expression of the Russian love for cabbage. Shchi
18. The Soviet meal that makes Australians think of Mcdonald’s. Vinaigrette, golubtsy
19. You can’t have fried meat pies without lard. Chebureki
20. A not-so-bad-for-you breakfast pastry. Vatrushki (cottage cheese pastry)
21. What exactly is a Soviet sandwich? Salad with radishes and sour cream, sandwiches on toasted bread
22. Is it possible to be indifferent to a four-course dinner? Mushroom bouillon, bean spread, chicken with white sauce, lemon jelly
23. The way to a Russian’s soul is through the freezer. Ice cream
24. A bourgeois breakfast for the masses. Guryevskaya kasha (semolina porridge with nuts and dried fruit)
25. Nothing says spring like minced meat and icing sugar. Kotlety po-pozharski (chicken rissoles), Vesna salad (green salad)
26. Going native with turnips and mushrooms. Turnips stuffed with semolina, perch in white wine
27. The deep-fried bad guy of the Soviet diet. Ponchiki (doughnuts)
28. A cake that means spring, not just Easter. Kulich
29. A lesson in conservation. Pasta bake with cottage cheese
30. Looking out for Soviet vegetarians. Lentils with dried apricots, green beans with walnuts
31. A Victory day high tea. Flaky pastry with apples, sponge cake with sour cream
32. Dessert made with a Soviet miracle. Lemon cake
33. Recipes: the best Soviet medicine. Gematogen bars, chicken and rice balls
34. A German meal in the Soviet cookbook. Schnitzel
35. An easy, sweet homemade treat. Marmalade
36. The juice that pretends to be a meal. Kissel (juice with starch)
37. A testament to the Soviet love for Georgia. Chakhokbili (chicken stew with tomatoes)
38. Fresh ingredients make even Soviet food better. Roast beef, tomato & cucumber salad, wine & strawberry drink
39. Learning a Soviet staple. Homemade tomato paste
40. A breakfast to prepare you to build communism. Oat porridge and Borjomi
41. The Soviet guide to the perfect summer appetizer. Eggplant dip, beet dip, mushroom dip
42. Want to throw a party? Better find your herring plate. Herring with garnish, zharkoye
43. Russians’ love for black bread in a bottle. Kvas (fermented drink)
44. A sharlotka by any other name. Sharlotka (apple pie)
45. No day is too hot for soup. Pea soup
46. Life is getting more joyful, comrades. Stuffed peppers and red wine
47. The taste of Soviet summer. Marinated melon
48. Who needs delivery when you can have Soviet “Pizza”? Pizza (vegetables on croutons)
49.Bush’s legs and Soviet chicken. Chicken over coals with Georgian plum sauce
50. How to celebrate your birthday, Soviet style. Birthday cake
51. One more piece in the puzzle of Soviet cooking. Zalivnaya fish (fish under gelatine)
52. The taste of escape from big cities and cold weather. Peach soup
53. A tasty lunch the Soviets passed by. Cream of pumpkin soup
54. A recipe so complex it could only exist in a fantasy. Kulebyaka (layered pie)
55. Russia’s national drink isn’t vodka. Tea
56. The meal that bureaucrats and students can agree on. Pelmeni (Soviet dumplings)
57. The everything-and-the-kitchen-sink soup. Solyanka
58. A spoonful of sugar helps the lemon go down. Sugared oranges and lemons
59. The Soviet version of locally grown and hand-roasted. Coffee
60. Vodka, the rabbi and pickle juice soup. Rassolnik (a soup of kidneys and pickles)
61. Canned miracles of communism. Canned fish in sour cream with potatoes and mushrooms
62. The dessert that conquers all cultures and time zones. Rice pudding
63. A lunch they should have served in the school cafeteria. Apple-carrot cutlets
64. The meal that sustained the Soviet navy. Pasta with group meat (makarony po-flotsky)
65. Celebrating Christmas with Russian-style Christmas gingerbread. Pryaniki (soft gingerbread)
66. A proper New Year Celebration requires a fur coat. Herring with garnishes (under a fur coat)
67. The Soviet version of an American classic. Potato salad
68. The official Jewish contribution to Soviet cooking. Forshmak
69. Corn – the wrong ingredient for building communism. Cornflake cookies
70. Learning to eat the food of chickens. Millet porridge
71. Feeling crabby? Try this Soviet comfort food. Crabstick salad
72. A noble dish, remade for the masses. Beef stroganoff
73. Luxury, Soviet style. Red caviar
74. The easy way to determine Soviet social status. Salami sandwiches
75. A tale of two pashtets. Liver pate
76. The classic Soviet cook out meal. Shashlik (meat on skewers)
77. The taste of summer before Coca-Cola. Home-made lemonade
78. Pirozhki: a labor of love. Small filled pies
79. Khvorost: the addictive Uzbek dessert. Fried pastry strips
80. Dolma: memories wrapped in grape leaves. Dolma (rice and ground meat in grape leaves)
Final thoughts
Index
About author
Отрывок из книги
The Soviet Diet Cookbook project began as a modified Russian version of “Julie and Julia” – a modern girl recreating the experience of cooking from a classic cookbook of another era and writing about it. But the experience differed from that of the “Julie and Julia” project almost from the start. For one thing, our “modern girl,” Anna Kharzeeva, would be exploring the recipes of her childhood and, more importantly, she would be doing so with the advice of her grandmother, Elena Moiseevna Blumek, who used the book as a young Soviet housewife, and with tips passed down from her great-grandmother, Mindl (Munya) Israilovna Maisil, who learned to get by with whatever was available during the shortages of the Russian Revolution and World War II.
What we hadn’t realized going in was that the Book of Healthy and Tasty Food, the book we dubbed “the Soviet diet cookbook,” was as much a propaganda tool as a collection of recipes. While Julia Child might have liked to create a revolution in the American diet via the Art of French Cooking, the purpose of the Book of Healthy and Tasty Food, or simply the Book, was to bring the ideals of the Bolshevik revolution to the Russian diet and help create a new Soviet woman. Among the Book’s modest goals were to free women from the drudgery of the kitchen, create a unified cuisine for the “friendship of peoples” and popularize mass-produced food. With this understanding, we expanded our approach to include an examination of how successful these aims had been at the level of the housewife cooking in the home.
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The same Book of Healthy and Tasty Food still occupies a proud place on my grandmother’s bookcase, although when I pulled it out in summer 2014 to start the project of cooking my way through it – with my grandmother’s advice – it was quite dusty. I was very curious to see how this famous book stood the test of time. Will the recipes be something I want to eat? WIll its instructions for young housewives of the past still make sense today? What will Granny have to say about it?
It was a fascinating read. I was born in the Soviet Union – albeit only five years before it ceased to exist – and all my life I heard about the Book of Healthy and Tasty Food from my mother and grandmother, but never had really looked into it. As I learned during the course of the project, it was the foundation for the cooking I grew up with.
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