The Fix

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Damian Thompson. The Fix

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DAMIAN THOMPSON

THE FIX

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Although a high proportion of bulimics have ‘issues’ with cupcakes, clearly the overwhelming majority of people who eat them don’t throw them up. They do, however, seem obsessed with them. A chain called Crumbs sells 1.5 million cupcakes every month in 35 US stores; in June 2011, it started trading on the Nasdaq, with an opening valuation of $59 million. And market analysts predict robust growth if Crumbs moves into emerging markets such as China.

The Facebook group for Sprinkles Cupcakes had, at the time of writing, been ‘liked’ by 325,000 people and was spreading the cupcake gospel with near-hysterical enthusiasm.7 For Valentine’s Day: ‘It’s back! The first 50 people to whisper “love at first bite” at each Sprinkles receive a free raspberry chocolate chip!’ For Super Sunday: ‘Whether you’re rooting for the New York Giants or New England Patriots or just tuning in for the commercials, Sprinkles Super Sunday boxes will score a touchdown at any viewing party. Each box contains 6 Red Velvet and 6 Vanilla cupcakes, adorned with football sugar decorations and your favourite team’s name. Just don’t get tackled reaching for the last one!’ There were even signs that cupcakes were trying to infiltrate the military-industrial complex: ‘Sprinkles is excited to bring freshly baked cupcakes to the Pentagon! Pentagon employees can find us in the Main Concourse …’

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