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E. A. Posselt. The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained
The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained
Table of Contents
PREFACE
HISTORY OF. The Jacquard Machine
The Jacquard Machine.—General Arrangement and Application
Illustrations of the Different Parts of the Jacquard Machine.—Method of Operation, etc
THE FRAME
THE PERFORATED BOARD
THE PLUNGER
THE CATCHES
THE GRIFFE
THE HOOK
THE NEEDLE
THE BATTEN MOTION
THE CYLINDER
THE HAMMER
THE NEEDLE-BOARD
THE JACQUARD CARDS
THE JACQUARD HARNESS
The Comber-board and Methods of Figuring for it
Comber-boards Made of a Solid Piece of Material
The Changing of Solid Comber-boards for Different Textures
Comber-boards made in Strips and Adjusted afterwards in a Frame
Divisions of the Comber-board
Heddles for the Jacquard Harness
The “Leasing” of the Harness
TYING-UP OF JACQUARD HARNESS
1. The Straight-Through Tie-up
1st. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine in the direction from Front to Rear
2d. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine from Rear to Front
3d. The Straight-Through Tie-up on the English System
II. Straight-Through Tie-up for Repeated Effects, in one Repeat of the Design
III. Straight-Through Tie-up of a Jacquard Loom having Front Harness Attached
IV. The Centre Tie-up
V. “Straight-Through” and “Point” Tie-ups Combined
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined
VI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Two Sections
A.—Using machine and comber-board in two equal sections
B. Using two machines and a comber-board having equal sections
C.—Using one machine and one comber-board: the machine unequally divided and the comber-board equally divided
VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of the Design with an Extra Warp, (part for Two Sections, part for Single)
VIII. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Three Sections
IX. The Point Tie-up in Three Sections
X. Combination Tie-up in Two Sections. (“Tie-up Amalgamate.”)
XI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Four Sections
XII. Tying-up of Jacquard Looms with Compound Harness attached
The Kind of Heddles Required for Compound Harness
Working the Compound Harness by a Separate Machine
Number of Compound Harness to Use
Positions of Compound Harness During Weaving
A few Different Weaves for Working Compound Harness
XIII.—Tying-up Jacquard Looms for Gauze Fabrics
Threading of the Harness
Modifications of the Single Lift Jacquard Machine
I. Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard Machine
II. Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard Machine
III. The Substitution of Tail-cords for Hooks
Tying-up of Jacquard Harness for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets. With a General Description of the Working of the Loom and Construction of the Fabric
I. The Straight-Through Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets
II. The Point Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets
APPENDIX
Preparing and Stamping of Jacquard Cards
Preparing
Card Stamping
I. Dobby Card Punching Machines
II. Piano Card Stamping Machines
The Stamping of Cards
III. Repeating Jacquard Pattern Cards by the Positive Action Repeater
A Lace-Hole Press
The Lacing of Cards
A. Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Hand
B. Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Machine
The Method of using Two Needles for Lacing each Series of Holes
Lacing Machine working with One Needle and One Shuttle for each Series of Holes
PRACTICAL HINTS. TO. LEARNERS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING
Squared Designing Paper for the Different Textile Fabrics Executed on the Jacquard Machine
Practical Use of the Heavy Square in Designing Paper
Selection of Designing Paper for Single Cloth
Selection of Designing Paper For Double Cloth
Selection of Designing Paper for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets
Selection of the Proper Brush for the Different □ Designing Papers
Colors used For Painting Textile Designs
Preservation of Textile Designs
Sketching of Designs for Textile Fabrics to be Executed on the Jacquard Machine
Methods of Setting the Figures
Size of Sketch Required
Enlarging and Reducing Figures for Sketches
Transferring of the Sketch to the Squared Designing Paper
Outlining in Squares
Rules for “Outlining in Squares” Inside or Outside the Drawing Outline
Illustration of a Sketch
Design for Damask Fabrics to be Executed on a Jacquard Loom, with Compound Harness Attached
Designs for Two-ply Ingrain Carpet
Designs for Dressgoods Figured with Extra Warp (one end Ground, one end Figure), and Executed on the Double Section Tie-up
Designs for Figured Pile Fabrics
The Shading of Textile Fabrics by the Weave
Rule for Shading with Satin Weaves
Glossary and Index
