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E. Ernest Bilbrough. 'Twixt France and Spain
'Twixt France and Spain
Table of Contents
CHAPTER I. PAU
CHAPTER II. BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE
CHAPTER III. LOURDES
CHAPTER IV. ARGELÈS
CHAPTER V. CAUTERETS
CHAPTER VI. LUZ AND BARÈGES
CHAPTER VII. ST. SAUVEUR
CHAPTER VIII. GAVARNIE
CHAPTER IX. FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON
CHAPTER X. BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON
CHAPTER XI. ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES
CHAPTER XII. EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES
CHAPTER XIII. BIARRITZ
CHAPTER XIV. CONCLUSION
APPENDIX A. APPENDIX B. APPENDIX C. APPENDIX D. INDEX. MAP OF THE PYRENEES
DAX. THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ. PAU (FROM THE JURANÇON SIDE OF THE GAVE) THE CASTLE COURTYARD. IN THE CASTLE PARK. THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN. THE "PALOMIÈRES DE GERDE" LOURDES (A SMALL GENERAL VIEW) THE "OLD FORT" AT LOURDES. ON THE ROAD TO ARGELÈS
A PRETTY BIT AT ARGELÈS. CAUTERETS
THE LAC DE GAUBE. THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE. THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF THE TEMPLARS AT LUZ. THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE. BARÈGES. ST. SAUVEUR
THE VILLAGE OF GÈDRE. THE CHAOS NEAR GAVARNIE. THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER) "ON THE TAREES ROAD" THE PEARL IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY
THE RUE D'ENFER AND THE CASCADES. ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNÈRES. ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES
IN THE OLD CHURCH AT LARUNS. CASCADE DU VALENTIN. CRABE BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE. THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES. THE PIC DE GER. THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ. THE VILLA EUGÉNIE
SCENE I.—BEFORE THE START SCENE II.—THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE SCENE III.—WHO'S MY DRIVER?
"TOWERING ABOVE THE PLAIN" PANORAMA OF THE CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS. PANORAMA OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE. PREFACE
E. E. B. INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I
PAU
"THE MARCH OF THE MEN OF GARLIC."
"IDYLLIC COLBERT."
CHAPTER II
BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE
"THE LADY'S FAREWELL TO HER ASININE STEED."
"THE ABBÉ'S SONG."
"THE PLAINT OF THE WEATHER-BEATEN PINE."
MENU
SOUP
FISH
ROASTS
COLD
MADE DISH
SWEETS
DESSERT
WINES AND LIQUEURS
MDCCCXXXII. M.B
CHAPTER III
LOURDES
"CRY OF THE LOURDES SHOPKEEPERS."
CHAPTER IV
ARGELÈS
"THE ARGELÈS SHEPHERD'S REPLY."
"SPRING'S BITTERS AND SWEETS."
JEANNETTE'S LAMB
"THE ORGAN'S TALE."
CHAPTER V
CAUTERETS
"EXHORTATION TO THE FIRST SNOW."
CHAPTER VI
LUZ AND BARÈGES
"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE." "THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE."
"THE JAY OF BARÈGES."
CHAPTER VII
ST. SAUVEUR
CHAPTER VIII
GAVARNIE
"THE GUIDE'S AUCTION."
CHAPTER IX
FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON
CHAPTER X
BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON
"THE OXEN'S APPEAL."
CHAPTER XI
ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES
"THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND."
CHAPTER XII
EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES
CHAPTER XIII
BIARRITZ
"THE THREE CORMORANTS."
CHAPTER XIV
CONCLUSION
"THE LESSON OF THE MOUNTAINS."
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E. Ernest Bilbrough
Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees
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The hotels de la Poste and Henri IV. are here situated, but the roads to the various other hotels and pensions diverge in different directions. To the right up the Rue Bordenave and along the Rue Henri IV. is the route to all the finest hotels, of which the "France" is the best, and the "Gassion" the most imposing; the others are the Belle Vue, Splendide, Beau Séjour, and de la Paix, all with the exception of the last possessing the magnificent mountain view, but although from the windows of the "Paix" only a side glimpse can be obtained, yet at the same time this hotel faces the "Place Royale," the popular resort of all classes in Pau. From the left-hand corner of the Place Grammont a narrow street leads to the fine church of St. Jacques, which is also the nearest way to the grand Hôtel Continental near Trinity Church, and the Pension Hattersly in the Rue Porte Neuve. But the route more to the left still, leading up the hill and joining the Route de Bordeaux, past the Haute Plante parade ground, is the usual one followed, especially for the Pensions—Lecour, Nogués, and Maison Pieté in the Rue d'Orléans; Pension Etcherbest, in the Passage Planté Hôtel de Londres, on the route de Billères; and Maison Colbert, in the Rue Montpensier.
Well knowing the comfort of a good pension, and intending to make a long stay, we drove straight from the station to the well-known Maison Colbert, and were soon as comfortable as we could wish. There are many people we are aware who detest "pensions." "We don't approve," say they, "of meals at fixed hours, of a drawing-room common to all, and of such a small house that everybody must know everyone else before the first dinner is over!" Well! why should they? They can go to the hotels; but let all those who are suffering or delicate put away thin-skinned feelings of superiority, till they have a good enough constitution to support them, and in the meantime seek peace and kindness, such as may be experienced at the Pension Colbert.
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