In Morocco

Оглавление

Edith Wharton. In Morocco

In Morocco

Table of Contents

PREFACE

I

II

NOTE

ILLUSTRATIONS

I

RABAT AND SALÉ

I. LEAVING TANGIER

II. THE TRAIL TO EL-KSAR

III. EL-KSAR TO RABAT

IV. THE KASBAH OF THE OUDAYAS

V. ROBINSON CRUSOE'S "SALLEE"

VI. CHELLA AND THE GREAT MOSQUE

FOOTNOTES:

II

VOLUBILIS, MOULAY IDRISS AND MEKNEZ

I. VOLUBILIS

II. MOULAY IDRISS

III. MEKNEZ

FOOTNOTES:

III

FEZ

I. THE FIRST VISION

II. FEZ ELDJID

III. FEZ ELBALI

IV. EL ANDALOUS AND THE POTTERS' FIELD

V. MEDERSAS, BAZAARS AND AN OASIS

VI. THE LAST GLIMPSE

FOOTNOTES:

IV

MARRAKECH

I. THE WAY THERE

II. THE BAHIA

III. THE BAZAARS

IV. THE AGDAL

V. ON THE ROOFS

VI. THE SAADIAN TOMBS

FOOTNOTES:

V

HAREMS AND CEREMONIES

I. THE CROWD IN THE STREET

II. AÏD-EL-KEBIR

III. THE IMPERIAL MIRADOR

IV. IN OLD RABAT

V. IN FEZ

VI. IN MARRAKECH

FOOTNOTES:

VI

GENERAL LYAUTEY'S WORK IN MOROCCO

I

II

III

THE WORK OF THE FRENCH PROTECTORATE, 1912–1918. PORTS

COMMERCE. COMPARATIVE TABLES

ROADS BUILT

RAILWAYS BUILT

LAND CULTIVATED

JUSTICE

EDUCATION

MEDICAL AID

FOOTNOTES:

VII

A SKETCH OF MOROCCAN HISTORY

I. THE BERBERS

II. PHENICIANS, ROMANS AND VANDALS

III. THE ARAB CONQUEST

IV. ALMORAVIDS AND ALMOHADS

V. THE MERINIDS

VI. THE SAADIANS

VII. THE HASSANIANS

FOOTNOTES:

VIII

NOTE ON MOROCCAN ARCHITECTURE

I

II

III

IV

FOOTNOTES:

IX

BOOKS CONSULTED

INDEX

BY EDITH WHARTON

Отрывок из книги

Edith Wharton

Published by Good Press, 2019

.....

Between these nomad colonies lies the bled, the immense waste of fallow land and palmetto desert: an earth as void of life as the sky above it of clouds. The scenery is always the same; but if one has the love of great emptinesses, and of the play of light on long stretches of parched earth and rock, the sameness is part of the enchantment. In such a scene every landmark takes on an extreme value. For miles one watches the little white dome of a saint's grave rising and disappearing with the undulations of the trail; at last one is abreast of it, and the solitary tomb, alone with its fig-tree and its broken well-curb, puts a meaning into the waste. The same importance, but intensified, marks the appearance of every human figure. The two white-draped riders passing single file up the red slope to that ring of tents on the ridge have a mysterious and inexplicable importance: one follows their progress with eyes that ache with conjecture. More exciting still is the encounter of the first veiled woman heading a little cavalcade from the south. All the mystery that awaits us looks out through the eye-slits in the grave-clothes muffling her. Where have they come from, where are they going, all these slow wayfarers out of the unknown? Probably only from one thatched douar[1] to another; but interminable distances unroll behind them, they breathe of Timbuctoo and the farthest desert. Just such figures must swarm in the Saharan cities, in the Soudan and Senegal. There is no break in the links: these wanderers have looked on at the building of cities that were dust when the Romans pushed their outposts across the Atlas.

A town at last—its nearness announced by the multiplied ruts of the trail, the cactus hedges, the fig-trees weighed down by dust leaning over ruinous earthern walls. And here are the first houses of the European El-Ksar—neat white Spanish houses on the slope outside the old Arab settlement. Of the Arab town itself, above reed stockades and brown walls, only a minaret and a few flat roofs are visible. Under the walls drowse the usual gregarious Lazaruses; others, temporarily resuscitated, trail their grave-clothes after a line of camels and donkeys toward the olive-gardens outside the town.

.....