One More Croissant for the Road
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Оглавление
Felicity Cloake. One More Croissant for the Road
Copyright
Dedication
Contents
Prologue
PAUSE-CAFÉ – The Croissant Rating System
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Cycle Touring: A Bluffer’s Guide
STAGE 1. The Grand Départ, London to Cherbourg
Douillons aux Poires – or Pears in Pyjamas
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Breakfast in France: A Beginner’s Guide
Douillons aux Poires, or Pears in Pyjamas
STAGE 2. Cherbourg to Avranches
Moules Marinières
Moules Marinières
STAGE 3. Avranches to Dol-de-Bretagne
Omelette Soufflée
Omelette Soufflée à la Mère Poularde
STAGE 4. Dol-de-Bretagne to Saint-Malo
A Platter of Oysters
PAUSE-CAFÉ – The Mysterious Fruits of the Sea
A Platter of Oysters
STAGE 5. Saint-Malo to Redon
Crêpes Complètes
PAUSE-CAFÉ – French Trains
Crêpes Complètes (buckwheat pancakes with ham, cheese and egg)
Km: 53.5. Croissants: 0 (potato pancakes with Marmite: 2) High: Eventually producing a half-decent crêpe. Low: Nearly making a ticket inspector cry with pity
STAGE 6. A Stage in Two Parts: Redon to Tours, Paris to Lamotte-Beuvron
Tarte Tatin
PART ONE: Redon to Tours
PAUSE-CAFÉ – French Opening Hours: A Fun Guessing Game for all the Family
Km: 89.3. Croissants: 2 (average score, 6.5) High: The apple-tapping museum continues to cheer me up for weeks. Low: First hangover. PART TWO, THREE MONTHS LATER: Paris to Lamotte-Beuvron (TARTE TATIN AT LAST)
The Brotherhood of Tarte Tatin Lovers’ Official Recipe for Tarte Tatin
STAGE 7. Limoges (Circuit)
Clafoutis aux Cerises
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Black or Blue?
Clafoutis aux Cerises
STAGE 8. Limoges to Bayonne
Chocolat Chaud
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Chocolat
Hot Chocolate and Buttered Brioche (in the style of Maison Cazenave)
STAGE 9. Bayonne to Pau
Poule au Pot
PAUSE-CAFÉ – French Bread: A Bluffer’s Guide
Poule au Pot à la Façon de Chez Olive
STAGE 10. Pau to Carcassonne
Cassoulet
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Cassoulet: When Baked Beans Go to Heaven
Cassoulet
STAGE 11. Marseille
Provençal Fish Soup
Provençal fish soup
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Couscous
Km: 36.8. Croissants: 0; North African flatbreads: 1. High: Lunch Chez Meades. Low: Losing Eddy in Le Panier
STAGE 12. Marseille to Nice
Ratatouille
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Piment d’Espelette
Ratatouille
STAGE 13. The Col de Joux Plane
Tartiflette
PAUSE-CAFÉ – French Sausages, a Field Guide
Tartiflette
STAGE 14. Lyon
Salade Lyonnaise
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Andouillette
Salade Lyonnaise
STAGE 15. Chalon-sur-Saône to Dijon
Boeuf Bourguignon
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Confession Time
Boeuf Bourguignon
STAGE 16. Strasbourg to Meistratzheim
Choucroute Garnie
PAUSE-CAFÉ – ‘French Mustard’ n’Existe Pas
PAUSE-CAFÉ – The Wine-Snugs of Alsace
Choucroute (based on the Chez Yvonne recipe)
Km: 71.3. Croissants: 1 (8.5/10), plus a 10/10 banana and Marmite sandwich in the Strasbourg apartment. High: The choucroute factory, obviously. Low: Being dissed by a cat
STAGE 17. Meistratzheim to Nancy
Quiche Lorraine
PAUSE-CAFÉ – The French Menu/Carte
Quiche Lorraine
STAGE 18. Toul to Bar-le-Duc
Madeleines
Brown Butter Madeleines
STAGE 19. Bar-le-Duc to Reims
Soupe à l’Oignon Gratinée
PAUSE-CAFÉ – Coffee Break
Onion Soup à la Stanislas
STAGE 20. Reims to Bondy
Croque Monsieur
Croque Monsieur de Meaux
PAUSE-CAFÉ – The Restorative Restaurant
STAGE 21. Bondy to Paris
Croissant 101
PAUSE-CAFÉ – The Croissant, Une Petite Histoire
Butter Croissants
Acknowledgements
Praise for One More Croissant for the Road
Matthew Fort
Caroline Eden
Yotam Ottolenghi
Hadley Freeman
Tim Hayward
Diana Henry
Anna Jones
Rosie Birkett
Rhik Samadder
Bee Wilson
Rachel Roddy
Meera Sodha
About the Publisher
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In the text that follows, all scores are out of 10: 1–4 denotes a poor croissant not even worth finishing (a croissant contains about 260kcal); 5–7 as a mediocre-to-decent example not worth complaining about and 8+ as a good croissant worth repeating immediately if time permits.
It’s a satisfyingly neat loop around the country, but one, I note, that covers an awful lot of ground. A cursory google turns up the terrifying fact that France is the largest country in Western Europe, a whopping 27 times the size of Wales. Distances are vast – it looks like it might take me at least three days to cycle across Brittany alone.
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