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Praise for Salt Rising Bread
SALT RISING. BREAD
Table of Contents
To Our Readers
About Us
Introduction
Katheryn Rippetoe Erwin
Pearl Haines
Glossary
The Three Stages of Salt Rising Bread
ONE. A Brief History of Salt Rising Bread . . . and why it matters
Mystery #1
TWO. How the Best Toast in the World Got Its Name. Featuring Pearl Haines of Mount Morris, Pennsylvania
PEARL HAINES’S SALT RISING BREAD RECIPE. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
THREE. How Can Something Smell So Bad, But Taste So Good? a tale of friendly bacteria, baking failures and science, too
Enhancing the Smell in Salt Rising Bread
Marie Jones
Della Mae Tennant
The Puzzling Question of Failures
Investigating the Bacteria
SALT RISING BREAD TOAST. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
EGGS WITH TOAST. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICH. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
FOUR. The Staff of Life: How Bread Made Its Way into Our Hearts and Hearths
Which Came First, Bread or Beer?
Salt Rising Bread’s Early Recipes
Emptins: the original salt rising bread starters?
Other Leaveners – from Pearlash to Saleratus
Toast-Making in a Simpler Time
KATHERYN RIPPETOE ERWIN’S SALT RISING BREAD
INGREDIENTS
ADD
PREPARATION
SALT RISING BREAD STUFFING. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
CROUTONS. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
FIVE. Taming the Wild Microbes: Salt Rising Bread Starters. Featuring Barb Morris, Mt. Morris, Pennsylvania. Letha Fink, Fairview, West Virginia. Joyce Varner, Durbin West Virginia
The Starter
1. SALT RISING BREAD STARTER WITH POTATOES. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
2. SALT RISING BREAD STARTER WITH CORNMEAL AND MILK. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
Time and Temperature
WHEN TIMING IS EVERYTHING
Other Starters: Railroad Yeast
About Commercial Yeast
Barb Morris
Some Frank Advice from Two Baking Elders. Letha Fink
Joyce Varner
Folklore Develops to Explain a Temperamental Bread
PIZZA WITH SALT RISING BREAD CRUST. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
SALT RISING BREAD ROLLS. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
SIX. The Perfect Loaf: 12 Secrets to Success. Featuring Alma Davis of Bridgeport, West Virginia
An Easier, Quicker Way to Make a Perfect Loaf
NO-SPONGE SALT RISING BREAD RECIPE
STARTER
DOUGH
PREPARATION
ALMA DAVIS’S SALT RISING BREAD RECIPE. STARTER
SPONGE
DOUGH
Tomato Sandwich Time!
GARDEN TOMATO SANDWICH. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
FRIED GREEN TOMATO SANDWICH. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
SEVEN. Almost as Good as Grandma’s: Commercial Bakeries and Salt Rising Bread. Featuring Jack Ward of Nicholasville, Kentucky. Bill Crum of Olatle, Kansas. Van de Kamp’s bakeries on the West Coast
Baker Jack Ward
Baker Bill Crum
Van de Kamp’s bakeries on the West Coast
On Baking as a Skilled Dance
TOMOTO GRAVY ON SALT RISING BREAD
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
BREAKFAST SANDWICH WITH BACON
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
ASSEMBLING THE SANDWICH
SMOKED SALMON SANDWICH WITH SALT RISING BREAD. INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
ASSEMBLING THE SANDWICH
EIGHT. In Praise of New Ideas: Gluten-Free Salt Rising Bread (Jenny’s quest for a delicious, well-textured loaf)
What is gluten and what does it do?
Let the Experiments Begin!
GLUTEN-FREE SALT RISING BREAD
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
NINE. Passing It On: A Living Legacy. Featuring Velda Moore of Burton, West Virginia. Nancy Booth of Elkins, West Virginia. Mary Ellen Cobb of Ronceverte, West Virginia
Susan Passes It On
Velda Moore
Nancy Booth
Mary Ellen Cobb
Closing Thoughts
Milestones and Small Moments on the Salt Rising Bread Timeline
“I Love This Bread . . .” more fond memories and appreciations
Susan’s Salt Rising Bread Project Gets Mail
A Survey Reveals a Lot About Salt Rising Bread Lovers
Some Favorite Memories from the Survey
Notes of Appreciation
References/Bibliography
Index
Acknowledgments
About Genevieve Bardwell
About Susan Ray Brown
OTHER BOOKS FROM ST. LYNN’S PRESS
“My friend Marion Cunningham first introduced me to salt rising bread – she had been experimenting with baking it in her kitchen, perhaps for one of her cookbooks. She made me some toast at her house, and it was just unlike anything I’d had before. The taste was something really different and unique. It was absolutely perfect toast – it didn’t need anything on it, not even butter. And it made great sandwiches, too!”
~ Alice Waters, chef, restaurateur, author of The Art of Simple Food (I and II), 40 Years of Chez Panisse, and others
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Although the ancestry of many of the pioneers who first settled in the mountains of Appalachia (where salt rising bread was well known) was largely Irish, Scottish and German, there is no evidence to indicate these people brought the knowledge of making salt rising bread from these home countries – nor is there any evidence so far of knowledge about salt rising bread in African slave foodways; the first African American cookbook, from 1881 (What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking), mentions only yeasted breads.
What we have come to believe, from all the information we have gathered, is that salt rising bread originated because of the dedication and ingenuity of the early pioneer women. In the rugged mountains of Appalachia, these women were isolated, surviving only with what they had on hand. For bread they needed baker’s yeast. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the one source for baker’s yeast would have been the local brewery. It’s likely that these women developed a yeastless bread because beer yeast was either not available for bread-making or not approved of among the many evangelicals living in these mountainous regions.1
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