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CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS AND THE

TRICKS OF TRAPPING AND

TRAP MAKING CONTAINING

COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLAND BEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS ON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'S ART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THE PROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, AND FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FOR THE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC., ETC.

BY

W. HAMILTON GIBSON

AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS"

Page 1 TO

MY BELOVED FRIENDS MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN,

KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS IN THE BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH, THIS BOOK IS

AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR.

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f all the various subjects in the catalogue of sports and pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm of our American boys generally, than that which forms the title of this book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred branches, always have been and always will be subjects of great interest among boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country.

It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys' Books" published in this country. There are a few English works of this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, but are nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants of American boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentially English, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding other topics which are of the utmost interest to boys of this country. In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volume knows, is the subject of Traps considered to any fair extent, and those examples which are given, represent only the most common and universal varieties already known to the general public.

Page 4 With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasm upon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglected corner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of his own boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such a volume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt want in the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land.

Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understood as encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Like all kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport of Trapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomes simple cruelty, as is always the case when pursued for the mere excitement it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no

use after their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of their plumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartless cruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging it under any such circumstances. In its right sense trapping is a delight-ful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend it to all our boy-readers.

It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly practical volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trap kind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity, could easily construct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with the utmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description.

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With the exception of all "clap-trap," our volume will embrace nearly every known example of the various devices used for the capture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying such as are impracticable on account of their complicated structure, and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the American Trapper.

Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall, as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessary qualification in any trap, and should be guarded against wherever possible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the Page 5 title of "The Trapper," we shall present full and ample directions for baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and other hints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wild animals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, our book shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessary information on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishing the most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subject ever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work, in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in the hopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snares which necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, for want of just such a volume. Several of these original inventions will appear in the present work for the first time in book form, and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almost say, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has never yet found them to "miss" in a single instance.

As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there is one autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; and that was when his traps were first set and were the chief source of his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on in those daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilarating effect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had the same experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment, the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the young trapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to no other. Trapping does not consist merely in the

manufacture and setting of the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities of the different game--here becomes a matter

of great importance; and the study of natural history under these circumstances affords a continual source of pleasure and profit.

Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions used by the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so that the author would gladly omit them. But as they Page 6 are of such unfailing action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the only ones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly be incomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embraces the arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into the subject of the wild life of a trapping campaign,-- containing full directions for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and canoes; hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions for the curing and tanning of fur skins,--in short, a complete repository of all useful information pertaining to the life and wants of a professional trapper.

In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insure clearness in general directions, and every point which would be likely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separate illustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list of boys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in every instance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensive and complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayed throughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness, may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of every boy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of

THE AUTHOR.

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BOOK I.

TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.

Introduction.--THE DEAD FALL.--Honey as Bait for Bears.--THE GUN TRAP.--Peculiar Habits of the Puma.--"Baiting" for the Puma.--Caution required in Setting the Gun Trap.--Several Guns used.--Different Modes of Setting.--Various animals to which the Gun Trap is adapted.--THE BOW TRAP.--Vane and Barb for Arrows.--Best Wood for Bow.--A Second Example

of Bow Trap.--Arrows Barbed and Poisoned.--THE DOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap.--The terrible Harpoon used by the African Trapper.--Different Modes of Setting the Down Fall.--Modification of the Down Fall for small animals.--THE BEAR TRAP.--Various Methods of Setting.--Honey as Bait for Bear.--Bait for Puma.--THE PITFALL.--Use of the Trap in Asia as a means of defence against the Tiger.--Disposition of the Bait.--Wonderful agility of the Puma.--Niceties required in the construction of the Pitfall.--THE LOG COOP TRAP.--Various animals for which it is adapted.--Different Modes of Setting.--THE CORRALL OR HOPO of Africa.--Its Construction and Appalling Effects.--THE NET TRAP.--Its Use in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger.--American animals to which it may be adapted.--Two Methods of Setting.--BIRD LIME.--Its Use for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger.

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Page iv BOOK II.

SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.

General Remarks.--Requisite Materials for Snaring.--THE QUAIL SNARE.--"Sucker Wire" Nooses.--Six Quail caught at a time.--HOOP NOOSES.--HORSE HAIR NOOSES.--HEDGE NOOSES.--Peculiarities of the Grouse.--Selection of Ground.--THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE.--A Hawk captured by the device.--The Wire Noose, as arranged for the capture of the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat.--THE TWITCH-UP.--Selection of Ground for Setting.--Various Modes of Constructing the Traps.--THE POACHERS' SNARE.--Its portability.--THE PORTABLE SNARE.--Its Peculiar Advantages.--The "Simplest" Snare.--The valuable principle on which it is Constructed.--Its Portability.--Various Adaptations of the Principle.--THE QUAIL SNARE.--Its ample capabilities of Capture.--Peculiarities of the Quail.--Successful Baits.--THE BOX SNARE.--Modification in a very small scale.--THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.--The Animals for which it is Adapted.--GROUND SNARES.-- THE OLD-FASHIONED SPINGLE.--THE IMPROVED SPINGLE.--Objections to Ground Snares.--THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.--THE PLATFORM SNARE.

BOOK III.

TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.

THE SIEVE TRAP.--THE BRICK TRAP.--THE COOP TRAP--Improved Method of Setting.--Defects of the old style.-- THE BAT FOWLING NET.--Its Use in England.--How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.--THE CLAP NET.--Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries.--Decoy Birds.--The "Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy.--Wonderful Skill attained in

the Use of the Bird Whistle.--Selection of Trapping Ground.--THE BIRD WHISTLE Described.--Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.--THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.--Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regions for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.--Tame Goose Used as Decoys.--Gravel as Bait.--THE TRAP CAGE.--A Favorite Trap among Bird Catchers.--Call Birds.--THE SPRING NET TRAP.--Rubber Elastic as Spring Power.--A SIMPLER NET TRAP.--Common Faults in many Bird Traps.--Complicated Construction as Unnecessary Feature.--Requisites of a good Bird Trap.--Hints on Simple Mechanism.-- Different Modes of Constructing Hinge.--Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power.--Manner of Tempering Spring.--THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.--A Second Method of Constructing Platform.--THE BOX OWL TRAP.--Ventilation a Desirable Feature in all Box Traps.--Tin Catch for Securing Cover in Place.--Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds.--Modification of Perch.--Baiting for the Owl.--Locality for Setting.--The Owl in Captivity.--Its Food.--Hints on the Care of the Bird.--THE BOX BIRD TRAP.--Cigar Box Used as a Trap.--THE PENDANT BOX TRAP.--Ventilation.--Simple Mechanism.--Care in Construction of Bearings.-- THE HAWK TRAP.--A "Yankee" Invention.--Stiff-Pointed Wires Effectually Use in the Capture of the Hawk.--Owl also Captured by the Same Device.--THE WILD DUCK NET.--Its Use in Chesapeake Bay.--Manner of Constructing the Net.--Decoy Ducks.--Bait for the Ducks.--THE HOOK TRAP.--Its cruel Mode of Capture.--Peculiar Bait for Ducks.--THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.--Its Successful Use in the Capture of the Crow.--Shrewdness of the Crow.--Strange antics of a Crow when Captured in

the Trap.--Bird Lime the Secret of its Success.--Wonderful Tenacity of the Cap.--Different Modes of Setting.--BIRD LIME Described.--Its astonishing "Sticky" Qualities.--The Bird Lime of the Trade.--Various "Home-Made" Recipes.--Manner of Using Bird Lime.--Limed Twigs.--The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with Bird Lime.--Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird.--A Flower Converted into a Trap.--Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.--Its Ready Removal from the Feathers.--Delicate Organization of the Humming Bird.--Killed by Fright.--Use of its Plumage.--Snares for the Humming Bird.--Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture.--Killed by Concussion.--Disabled by a Stream of Water.

Page v BOOK IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS.

THE COMMON BOX TRAP.--Two Modes of Setting.--Animals for which it is Adapted.--A Modification of the Trap.--ANOTHER BOX TRAP.--THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.--Its Advantages.--THE DOUBLE ENDER.--A Favorite Trap in New England.--Simplicity of Construction.--The Rabbit's Fondness for Salt.--Its Use as a Bait.--THE SELF SETTING TRAP.--Animals for which it is adapted.--THE DEAD FALL.--Various Methods of Construction.--Animals for which it is usually Set.-- Remarkable Cunning of some Animals.--The Precautions which it Necessitates.--Bait for the Muskrat.--Various Baits for the Mink.--Skunk Baits.--A Fox Entrapped by a Dead Fall.--Slight Modification in the Arrangement of Pieces.--Live Duck used as Bait.--Another Arrangement for the Dead Fall.--Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal.--THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP.--Applied to the Dead Fall.--THE GAROTTE.--Its Singular Mode of Capture.--Its Common Victims.--THE BOW TRAP.--An oddity of the Trap Kind.--Its Singular mechanism.--THE MOLE TRAP.--A Much-needed Contrivance.--Subterranean Mode of Setting.--Its Unfailing Success.--A FISH TRAP.--A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap.--Its Various Victims.--Adjustment of the Bait.--Curious Mode of Capture.

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BOOK V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.

A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers.--The Domestic Cat as a Household Trap.--The Rat.--Its Proverbial Shrewdness and Cunning.--THE BARREL TRAP.--Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture--Other Advantages.--"Baiting" for Rats.--A Second Form of Barrel Trap.--Various other Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat.--The Steel Trap.--Hints on Setting.--Necessary Precautions.--THE BOX DEAD FALL.--THE BOARD FLAP.--THE BOX PIT FALL.--Animals for which it may be set.--Its Extensive Capabilities of Capture.--Its Self-Setting Qualities.--The principle Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat.--THE CAGE TRAP.--THE JAR TRAP.--A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap.--Its Complete Success.--BOWL TRAPS.--Two Methods.--FLY PAPER.--Recipe for Making.--FLY TRAP.

BOOK VI.

STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.

General Remarks.--Advantages of the Steel Trap.--Its extensive use in the business of Trapping.--Hints on the Selection of Traps.--REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.--The Newhouse Trap.--Various sizes.--Rat Trap.--Muskrat Trap.--Mink Trap.--Fox Trap.--Otter Trap.--Beaver Trap.--"Great Bear Tamer."--Small Bear Trap.--HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.--The Staked Pen.--Old Method of Baiting.--Its Objections.--Advantages of the New Method.--THE SPRING POLE.-- Its Service to the Trapper.--THE SLIDING POLE.--Advantages of its Use in the Capture of Aquatic Animals.--THE CLOG.-- Objections against Securing the Steel Trap to a Stake.--Method of Attaching the Clog.--THE GRAPPLING IRON.--THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.--Best condition for Furs.--THE ART OF TRAPPING.--Antiquity of the Sport.--Necessary Qualifications for Successful Trapping.--The Study of Natural History a source of pleasure and profit.--The Professional Trapper's most serious Page vi Obstacles.--Marvellous Cunning of many Animals.--Necessity of the Study of their Habits.--"Practical Natural History."--Trapping Without Bait.--Runways or By-paths.--How Utilized by the Trapper.--How Detected.--Favorable Localities for the Setting of the Steel Trap.--Natural Advantages.--Entrapping animals through their Sense of Smell.--Remarkable Power of Scent Baits.--Their great value in the Capture of the Beaver.--Caution in Handling the Steel Trap.--Effect of the Touch of the Hand.--Buckskin Gloves a Necessary Requisite.--MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS.--Their Great Importance in the Art

of Trapping.--CASTOREUM OR BARKSTONE.--How Obtained.--Castoreum Composition.--Recipe for Making.--How Used.--MUSK--ASSAFOETIDA.--OIL OF RHODIUM.--FISH OIL.--Its General Use in the Capture of Aquatic Animals.-- Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture.--OIL OF SKUNK.--How Obtained.--How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing.--OIL OF AMBER.--OIL OF AMBERGRIS.--OIL OF ANISE.--Its General Use as a "Universal Medicine."--SWEET FENNEL.--CUM-MIN--FENUGREEK-- LAVENDER--COMPOUND MEDICINE--THE TRAIL--Its Object and Value.--Various Modes of Making.--HOW TO TRAP.--General Remarks.--THE FOX.--Its Scientific Classification.--The Various American Species.--The Red Fox.--The Cross Fox.--Why so Named.--The Black or Silver Fox.--The Great Value of its Fur.--The Prairie Fox.--The Kit or Swift Fox.--The Gray Fox.--Similarity in the General Characteristics of the Various Species.--Food of the Fox.--Its Home.-- Its consummate Craft.--Instances of its Cunning.--Baffling the Hounds.--How to Trap the Fox.--Preparation of the Trap.--Ad-verse Effect of Human Scent.--Necessity of handling Trap with Gloves.--The "Bed."--"Baiting" the Bed Necessary.--Precautions in Setting the Trap.--The "Tricks of the Trapper" Illustrated.--How to Proceed in case of Non-Success.--The Scent-Baits Utilized.--Various Modes of Setting the Trap.--The Baits Commonly Used.--The Dead Fall as a Means of Capture.--Common Mode of Skinning the Fox.--Directions for Stretching Skin.--THE WOLF.--The Various Species.--Fierce Characteristics of the Wolf.--Its Terrible Inroads among Herds and Flocks.--The Gray Wolf.--The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf.--The Texan Wolf.--Home of the Wolf.--Number of Young.--Cunning of the Wolf.--Caution Required in Trapping.--How to Trap the Wolf.--Preparation of Trap.--Various Ways of Setting the Trap.--Use of the Trail and Scent Baits.--"Playing Possum."--The

Dead Fall and "Twitchup" as Wolf Traps.--Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretching the Pelt.--THE PUMA.--Its Scientific

Classification.--Its Life and Habits.--Its Wonderful Agility.--Its Skill as an Angler.--Its Stealth.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma.--The Gun Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Dead Fall.--Trap for Taking the Animal Alive.--Log Coop Trap.--The Pit Fall.--Bait for the Puma.--The Steel Trap.--Common Mode of Setting.--Selection of Locality for Trapping.-- How to Skin the Puma.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE CANADA LYNX.--Description of the Animal.--Its Life and Habits.--Its Food.--Its Peculiar Appearance when Running.--Easily Killed.--The Dead Fall as a Lynx Trap.--Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose.--The Gun Trap.--The Bow Trap.--The Twitchup.--Young of the Lynx.--Value of its Fur.--The Steel Trap.--Various Methods of Setting.--Directions for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE WILD CAT.--Its Resemblance to the Domestic Species.--Its Strange Appetite.--Its Home.--Number of Young.--Haunts of the Wild Cat.--Its Nocturnal Marauding expeditions.--Its Lack of Cunning.--How to Trap the Wild Cat.--An Entire Colony Captured.--Ferocity of the Wild Cat.--The Twitchup.--Its Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat.--Other Successful Traps.--Various Baits for the Wild Cat.--Directions for Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt.--THE BEAR.--The Various American Species.--The

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Grizzly.--Its Enormous Size and Power.--Its Terrible Fury.--Description of the Animal.--Food of the Grizzly.--The Black Bear or Musquaw.--Its General Description.--Bear Hunting.--Danger of the Sport.--Food of the Bear.--Its Fondness for Pigs.--Hon-ey Its Special Delight.--The Cubs.--The Flesh of the Bear as Food.--"Bears' Grease."--Hibernation of the Bear.--Traps for the Bear.--The Dead Page vii Fall.--Pitfall.--Giant Coop.--Gun Trap.--The Steel Trap.--The Clog and Grappling-Iron.--Their Advantages.--How to Trap the Bear.--Various Methods of Adjusting Traps.--Natural Advantages.--Honey as Bait.--Other Baits.--Scent Baits.--Skinning the Bear.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE RACCOON.--Classification--Cunning and Stealth of the Animal.--Characteristic Features.--The "Coon Chase."--How the Raccoon is Hunted.--The "Tree'd Coon."--Var-ied Accomplishments of the Raccoon.--Its Home and Family.--The "Coon" as a Pet.--Its Cunning Ways.--Its Extensive Bill of Fare.--Life and Habits of the Raccoon.--Remarkable Imprint of its Paw.--Season for Trapping the Coon.--How to Trap the Coon.--Various Modes of Setting the Trap.--Use of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits."--Other Traps for the Animal.--Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching the Pelt.--THE BADGER.--Its Peculiar Markings.--Use of the Hair.--Nest of the Badger.--Number of Young.--Food of the Animal.--Its Remarkable Fondness for Honey.--Its Cunning.--Remarkable Instincts.--Its Shrewdness.--How to Trap the Badger.--Various Baits.--Use of "Medicine."--Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow.--How to Skin the Badger.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE BEAVER.--Description of the Animal.--Its Nature and Habits.--The Beaver Village.--The "Lodges," or Beaver Houses.--Remarkable Construction of the Huts.--The Dam of the Beaver.--Wonderful Skill shown in its Construction.--Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver.--Remarkable Engineering Instincts of the Animal.--How the Beaver Cuts Timber.--How the Dam is Constructed.--The Formation of "Reefs."--The Tail of the Beaver as a Means of Transportation.--Subterranean Passage to the Huts.--How Beavers are Hunted.--Young of the Beaver.--How to Trap the Beaver.--The Necessary Precautions.--Castoreum or Bark Stone.--Its Great Value in the Capture of the Beaver.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.--How to Apply the Castoreum.--Use of the Sliding Pole.--Food of the Beaver.--Directions for Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt.--THE MUSKRAT.--General Description of the Animal.--Its Beaver-like Huts.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its Food.--The Flesh of the Muskrat as an Article of Diet.--Description of the Hut.--Extensive Family of

the MuskRat.--Its Home.--How the MuskRat swims beneath Unbroken Ice.--How it is Killed by being Driven Away from its Breath.--Spearing the MuskRat.--Construction of the Spear.--How to Trap the MuskRat.--Use of the Sliding Pole.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The Spring Pole.--Scent Baits.--Various Devices for Capturing the MuskRat.--The Barrel-Trap.--Remarkable Success of the Trap.--The Trail.--Skinning the MuskRat.--How to Stretch the Pelt.--THE OTTER.--Description of the Animal.--Beauty of its Fur.--How the "Otter Fur" of Fashion is Prepared.--Food of the Otter.--Its Natural Endowments for Swimming.--Habitation of the Otter.--Its Nest and Young.--The Track or "Seal" of the animal.--How the Otter is Hunted.--Its Fierceness when Attacked.--The Otter as a Pet.--Fishing for its Master.--The Otter "Slide."--How Utilized by the Trapper.--Playfulness of the Otter.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Modes of Setting Trap.--The Sliding Pole.--The Spring Pole.--Scent Baits.--How Applied.--Necessary Precautions.--How to Skin the Otter.--Directions for Stretching the Pelt.--THE MINK.--Its Form and Color.--Value of the Fur.--Habits of the Animal.--Its Diet.--Its Perpetual Greed.--Ease with which it may be Trapped.--Habitation of the Mink.--Its Nest and Young.--How to Trap the Mink.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.-- Baits.--The Sliding Pole.--"Medicine."--The Runways of the Mink.--How Utilized in Trapping.--The Trail.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Mink.--How to Skin the Animal.--THE PINE MARTEN.--Description of the Animal.--Its Natural Characteristics.--Its Nocturnal Habits.--Its Wonderful Stealth and Activity.--Its "Bill of Fare."--Its Strange mode of Seizing Prey.--The Marten as a Pet.--Its Agreeable Odor.--Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Marten.--Baits for the Marten.--

The Steel Trap.--Several Modes of Setting.--Directions for Skinning the Animal.--THE FISHER.--Its Form and Color.--Its Habitation and Young.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Methods.--The Spring Pole.--Baits for the Fisher.--Principal Devices Used in its Capture.--The Skin.--How Page viii Removed and Stretched.--THE SKUNK.--Its Fetid Stench.--Origin of the Odor.--Its Effect on Man and Beast.--"Premonitory Symptoms" of Attack.--Acrid Qualities of the Secretion.--Its Terrible Effect on the Eyes.--Interesting Adventure with a Skunk.--"Appearances are often Deceitful."--The Skunk as a Pet.--Color of the Animal.--Habits of the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Young.--"Alaska Sable."--How to Trap the Skunk.--Various Traps Used.--The Steel Trap.--Different Modes of Setting.--Baits.--The Dead Fall.--Modifications in its Construction.--The Twitchup.--Its Peculiar Advantages for the Capture of the Skunk.--Chloride of Lime as Antidote.--Method of Eradicating the Odor from the Clothing.--Directions for Removing and Stretching the Skin.--THE WOLVERINE.--Its Desperate Fierceness and voracity.--Its General Characteristics.--Its Form and Color.--Food of the Wolverine.--Its Trap-Robbing Propensities.--How to Trap the Wolverine.--Baits.--Use of the "Medicine."--The Gun Trap and Dead Fall.--The Steel Trap.--Various Modes of Setting.--Home and Young of the Animal.--How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched.--THE OPOSSUM.--Description of the Animal.-- Its Nature and Habits.--Its Home.--Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young.--Nocturnal Habits of the Animal.--Its Food.--Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons.--Its Remarkable Tenacity as a Climber.--"Playing Possum."--How the Opossum is Hunted.-- How Trapped.--Various Devices Used in its Capture.--Scent Baits.--How the Skin is Removed and Stretched.--THE RABBIT.-- Wide-spread Distribution of the Various Species.--Their Remarkable Powers of Speed.--Nest of the Rabbit.--Its Prolific Offspring.--Food of the Rabbit.--Its Enemies.--Various Devices Used in Trapping the Animal.--Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit.--THE WOODCHUCK.--Description of the Animal.--Its Habits.--Its Burrows.--Its Food.--Toughness of the Skin.--Its Use.--Nest of the Animal.--The Woodchuck as Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--The Steel Trap.--The Spring Pole.--The Twitchup.--How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out."--The Turtle as a Ferret.--Smoking the Burrows.--Directions for Skinning the Animal.--THE GOPHER.--Its Burrows.--Its Food.--Remarkable Cheek Pouches of the Animal.--Their Use.--

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How to Trap the Animal.--How the Skin is Removed.--THE MOLE.--Its Varied Accomplishments.--Its Remarkable Dwellings.--Complicated Structure of the Habitation.--The Fury and Voracity of the Mole.--Peculiarities of Its Fur.--A Waistcoat of Mole Skins.--Odor of the Mole.--Mole Traps.--Various Species of the Mole.--The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope.--Marvellous Beauty of Its Fur.--SQUIRRELS.--Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit.--Their Food.--Their Provident Instincts.--"Nutting" in Midwinter.--The Nest of the Squirrel.--Burrowing Squirrels.--The Various American Species.--The Grey Squirrel.--The Chipmunk.--The Chickaree.--The Flying Squirrel, &c.--How Squirrels are Trapped.--Various Traps Used in their Capture.--Removal of Skin.--THE DEER.--Difficulty of Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons.--Various American Species of the Deer.--How the Deer is Trapped.--Peculiar Construction of the Trap.--Scent Bait for the Deer.--Various Methods of Setting the Trap.--Violence of the Deer when Trapped.--The Clog.--Dead Falls.--Food of the Deer.--Deer "Yards."--Natural Enemies of the Deer.--How the Deer is Hunted.--"Still Hunting."--The Deer's Acute Sense of Smell.--How to Detect the Direction of the Wind.--Natural Habits of the Deer.--"Night Hunting."--Luminosity of the Eyes of the Deer at Night.--Hunting the deer with dogs.--"Deer Licks."--How Salt is used in Hunting the Deer.--Hunting from a Scaffolding.--Peculiar Sight of the Deer.--"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting.--Head Lantern.--How made.--How used.--The fiery Eyes of the Deer.--"Fox Fire" or Phosphorescent wood.--How used by the Hunter.--Seasons for Deer Hunting.--How to skin the Deer.--THE MOOSE.--Description of the animal.--Immense size of its Horns.--Moose yards.--Hunted on Snow shoes.--The dangers of Moose Hunting.--Exquisite sense of Smell.--How the Moose is Trapped.--Directions for removing the Skin of the Animal.--ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP.--Description of the Animal.--Its enormous Horns.--Habits of the creature.--Its flesh as Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--THE BUFFALO.--Its Habits.--Its Food.--Buffalo-grass.--How the Animal is Hunted and Trapped.--Buffalo Page ix flesh as Food.--Buffalo skins.--THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE.--Description of the Animal.--Peculiarity of Horn.--How the creature is Hunted and Destroyed by the Indians.--Remarkable sense of Smell of the Animal.--Its Beauty and grace.--Flesh of the Antelope a Food.--How the Animal is Trapped.--Various Traps used in their Capture.--The Deadfall.--Pitfall.--How to remove the Hide of the Animal.--SHOOTING AND POISONING.--"Shot furs."--"Poisoned furs."--"Trapped furs."--Their relative Value in the Fur Market.--Effect of grazing shot on fur.--Effect of Poison on Fur.--Remarks on the use of Poison.-- Strychnine.--Poisoning Wolves.--Recipe for mixing the Poison.--Poisoning the Bear.--How the Dose is Prepared.

BOOK VII.

CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS.

Introductory Remarks.--"Amateur Trapping."--PLAN OF CAMPAIGN.--Selection of Trapping-ground.--Advantages of a Watered District.--Labor of transportation lightened by Boating.--Lakes, Ponds and Streams.--The Adirondacks and Allegha-nies.--Remarks on the "Home Shanty."--Selection of Site for building.--Value of a good Axe.--Remarks on the Bark Shanty.--Its value in case of Storms.--Wise fore-sight.--Remarks on the Indian Birch-bark Canoe.--Dug-out and Bateau.--Commencement

of Trapping Season.--Advantages of preliminary preparation.--Extensive route of the Professional Trapper.--Sixty pounds

of Personal Luggage.--How the traps and provisions are distributed among the Trapping lines.--Use of the "Home Shanty."--

"Keeping Shanty."--Necessity of its being Guarded.--Wolves and Bears as thieves.--Steel Traps considered.--Number used in a Professional Campaign.--Number for an Amateur Campaign.--Their Probable Cost.--The average size of Trap.--Deadfalls, Twitchups, &c., considered.--Requisite Tools for a Campaign.--A "House-wife" a valuable necessity.--"Cleanliness next to Godliness."--The Trappers' Light.--Comparative value of Lanterns and Candles.--The Trappers' Personal outfit.--The jackknife.--The Pocket-Compass.--Necessity of preparing for Emergencies.--Shot guns and Rifles.--Both combined in the same weapon.--Oil

for Fire Arms.--Fat of the Grouse Used on Fire Arms.--Fishing tackle.--The Trappers' portable stove.--The Stove versus The Open Fire.--The Trapper's Clothing.--The Material and Color.--Boots.--High-topped Boots.--Short Boots.--Their Relative Qualities.--Waterproof Boot Dressing.--Recipe.--The Trapping Season.--Hints on Trapping-lines.--The "Wheel" plan.--Mode of following the lines.--"Trap Robbers" or "Poachers."--How to guard against them.--Hiding furs.--How to store Traps from Season to Season.--Gnats and Mosquitoes.--The "Smudge."--How made.--FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS.--"Roughing it."--"A chance Chip for a Frying Pan."--A "happy medium" between two extremes.--Cosy and Comfortable living on a Campaign.--Portable Food.--Combined Nutriment and lightness in weight to be desired.--The Trappers' Culinary Outfit.--In-

dian meal as Food.--The Trappers' "Staff of Life."--Wheat flour.--Salt Pork.--Seasoning.--Pork Fritters a luxury.--Cooking Utensils.--The "Telescope" drinking cup.--Recipe for making Pork Fritters.--"Chop Sticks" a la "Chinee."--A Flat Chip as a Plate.--Boiled Mush.--Old "Stand by."--Recipe.--Fried Mush.--Indian meal Cakes.--Recipe.--Johnny Cake.--Recipe.--Hoe Cakes.--Recipe.--Fresh fish.--How to Cook fish in a most Delicious manner.--Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, outdone.--The "NE PLUS ULTRA" of delicacies.--All the sweet Juices of the Fish preserved.--Disadvantages of the ordinary method of cooking.-- Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cooked deliciously.--Roasting unrivalled!--Hints on Broiling.--An extemporized Spider or Toaster.--Roasting on a spit.--Venison, Bear, and Moose Meat broiled in the best style.--Venison cutlets.--The Camp fire.--Usual mode Page x of building Fire.--How the Kettle is suspended.--"Luxuries" considered.--The Knapsack a desirable Acquisition.--Matches.--The Bottle Match-safe.--Waterproof Matches.--How made.--Lucifer Matches.--Recipe for Waterproof preparation.--The Pocket

Sun Glass.--A necessary adjunct to a Trapper's Outfit.--Its Advantages in case of Emergency.--"Touch wood" or "Punk Tinder,"

valuable in lighting fires.--How to light Fires without matches or Sun glass.--How to light a fire without Matches, Sun Glass, Pow-

6

der, or Percussion Caps.--A last Resort.--Matches best in the long run.--The Portable Camp Stove described.--Its accompanying Furniture.--The Combination Camp-knife.--Hint on Provisions.--Potatoes as food.--Beans.--"Self raising" Wheat flour.--Light Bread, Biscuit and Pancakes in Camp.--Various accessories.--Olive Oil for purpose of Frying.--Pork.--Indian meal.--Crackers.--Wheaten Grits.--Rice and Oatmeal.--Tea and Coffee.--Soups.--Liebig's Extract of Beef.--Canned Vegetables.--Lemonade.--Waterproof bags for provisions.--Painted bags.--Caution!--Waterproof preparation.--Air-tight jars for Butter.--Knapsack or Shoulder Basket.--Venison as food.--To preserve the overplus of meat.--"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process.--Moose and Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared.--How to protect provisions from Wolves.--The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food.--

"Small game," Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks.--"Skunk Meat" as a delicacy.--The Buffalo as food.--Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers and Hunters.--Various species of Grouse.--The Sage Cock.--The Ptarmigan.--How they are trapped by the Indians in the Hudson's Bay Country.--Waterfowl.--Sea and Inland Ducks.--Various species of Duck.--Mallard. --Muscovy.-- Wigeon.--Merganser.--Canvass Back.--Teal, &c.--Wild Geese.--Fish as food.--Angling and Spearing.--Salmon Spearing in the North.--Description of the Salmon Spear used by the Indians.--Salmon Spearing at night.--Requisites of a good Spearsman.-- Fishing through the Ice.--Cow's udder and Hogs liver as Bait.--Other Baits.--Assafoetida and Sweet Cicely as fish Baits.--Trout fishing with Tip-up's.--Pickerel fishing in Winter.--Pickerel Spearing through the Ice.--The Box Hut.--The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap.--Fish Attracted by light.--Light as Bait.--How the Fish Lantern is made and used.--THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.--Introductory remarks.--The Perils of a Life in the Wilderness.--A Shelter of some form a Necessity.--The Log Shanty.--Full directions for building.--Ingenious manner of constructing roof.--How the Chimney is built.--Spacious interior of the Shanty.--THE BARK SHANTY.--A Temporary structure.--Full directions for its construction.--Selection of building site.--TENTS.--Advantages of their use.--Various kinds of Tents.--The House Tent.--The Fly Tent.--The Shelter Tent.--Directions for making the Tent.--Tent Cloth.--How to render tents Water and Fire-resistant.--Valuable recipe.--BEDS AND BEDDING.--Perfect rest and comfort to the tired Trapper.--A portable Spring bed for the woods.--A Hammock bed.--Bed Clothes.--The Canton Flannel Bag.--Hammocks.--TENT CARPETING.--Spruce and Hemlock boughs as bedding.--How to cover the ground evenly.--The Rubber Blanket.

BOOK VIII.

THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.

Warning to the Novice.--Winged Cannibals of the Woods.--INSECT OINTMENTS.--Mosquitoes and Gnats.--Their aversion to

the scent of Pennyroyal.--Pennyroyal Ointment.--Recipe.--Mutton tallow Ointment.--Tar and Sweet Oil Liniment.--Recipe.-- Its effect on the Complexion.--Invasions of Insects by night.--Their pertinacity and severity.--The experience of our Adirondack guide.--The bloodthirsty propensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted.--The "Smudge" Smoke versus Insect Bites.--

"Punkeys" and "Midgets."--Their terrible voracity.--Painful effects of their Bites.--Pennyroyal an effective Antidote.--Depraved Page xi appetite of the mosquito.--A Warning to the Intemperate.--Use and abuse of Alcohol.--A Popular error corrected.--A substitute for Whiskey and Brandy.--Red Pepper Tea.--Its great value as a remedy in Illness.--The Mosquitoes' favorite Victim.-- Result of the bite of the insect.--The Mosquito Head-Net.--Directions for making the Net.--Netting attachment for the Hat.-- Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim.--Netting attachment for the Hat brim.--BOAT BUILDING.--A Boat of some kind a necessity to the Trapper.--The "Dug-Out" or Log-Canoe.--Requisite Tools for its Manufacture.--Selection of the Log.--Directions for making the boat.--Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced.--Lightness of the boat.--How to gauge the thickness.--How to

stop leaks.--THE INDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE.--The Indian as a Canoe-maker.--His remarkable skill.--Perfection of the Indian made Canoe.--Description of the Canoe.--Capacity of the various sizes.--How to construct a Bark Canoe.--Selection of Bark.--How to prevent Leaks.--Material used by the Indians in sewing the Bark.--Advantages of the Birch Bark Canoe.--Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes.--A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.--Selection of Boards.--Directions for making the Boat.--Caulking the seams.--Value of Pitch for waterproofing purposes.--How it should be applied.--THE SCOW.--How to construct the ordinary Flat-bottomed Boat.--The Mud-stick.--SNOW SHOES.--A necessity for winter travel.--The "Snow Shoe Race."--The mysteries of a Snow Shoe.--"Taming the Snow Shoe."--How to make the Snow Shoe.--Complicated Network.--

Two methods of attaching the Network.--How the Snow Shoe is worn.--THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.--Its value to the Trapper.--Winter Coasting.--Great sport with the Toboggan.--How to make a Toboggan.--Selection of Boards.--How the Sledge is used.--CURING SKINS.--Importance of Curing Skins properly.--Valuable hints on Skinning Animals.--How to dry Skins.--How to dress Skins for Market.--Astringent preparations.--Recipe.--STRETCHERS.--How skins are stretched.--The Board Stretcher.--How it is made and used.--The Wedge Stretcher.--How made and used.--The Bow Stretcher.--The Hoop Stretcher.--TANNING SKINS.--To Tan with the hair on.--Preparation of Skin for Tanning.--Tanning Mixture.--Recipe.-- Second Mixture.--Recipe.--Third Mixture and Recipe.--How the Skin is softened and finished.--HOW TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS.--Preparation of Skin.--Tanning Mixtures.--Various Recipes.--"Fleshing."--The Fleshing-knife.--Substitute for the Fleshing-knife.--HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.--Tanning Mixtures.--How to soften the Skin.--Simple Tanned Skin.--Recipe for removing the fur.--How to finish the Skin.--OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.--Some bits of History in connection with Furs.--Ancient use of Furs.--Furs a medium of Exchange.--Furs and Fashion.--Extravagance in Fur Costume.--Choice Furs as Badges of Rank.--

7

Their use restricted to Royal Families.--The Early Fur Trade of Europe.--A Tribute paid in Furs.--Early History of the Fur Trade in America.--Origin of the Hudson's Bay Company.--Hostility of the French Canadian Traders.--Establishment of the North

West Company.--Competition and War.--Consolidation of the two Companies.--Great sales of the Hudson's Bay Company.--Importance of the Fur Trade.--Cities founded by the enterprise of the Trapper.--St. Paul.--Montreal and Mackinaw.--Fortunes built up on Fur Traffic.--John Jacob Astor.--Mink and Muskrat Skins.--Their extensive use in America.--Estimated value of the annual yield of Raw Furs throughout the World.--Classification of Furs by American Dealers.--"Home" Furs.--"Shipping" Furs.--Table of Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873.--March Sale.--September Sale.--Price according to Quality.--Estimated average per Skin.--List of American "Shipping" Furs.--List of American "Home" Furs.--MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.--Eccentricities of the Fur Market.--Demand governed by Fashion.--How Fashion runs the Fur Trade.--The Amateur Trapper and the Fur Trade.--Difficulty of a profitable disposal of Furs.--Advice to the Novice.--How to realize on the sale of Furs.--TABLE OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS.--A complete list of American Fur bearing Animals.--Various prices of Skins according

to Quality.--USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD.--The Silver Fox.--Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin.--Red Fox Fur.--Its Page xii use in Oriental Countries.--Beaver Fur.--Its various uses.--Raccoon Skins, a great Staple for Russia and Germany.--Bear Skins and their various uses.--Lynx, Fisher, and Marten Skins.--The Mink.--Use of its hair for Artists pencils.-- Muskrat Skins.--Three millions annually exported to Germany alone.--Their extensive use among the American poorer classes.-- Otter Fur.--Sleigh Robes from Wolf Skins.--Rabbit Fur.--Its use in the Manufacture of Hats.--Breeding Rabbits for their Fur.-- The Wolverine.--Skunk Fur, dignified by the name of Alaska Sable.--Large shipments to Foreign Countries.--How the Fur of the Badger is used.--Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur.--Robes for the Fashionable.--Squirrel and Mole skins.

Page xiii

FULL PAGES.

1. Caught at last.

2. Traps for Large Game.

3. Snares or Noose Traps.

4. Traps for Feathered Game.

5. Miscellaneous Traps.

6. Household Traps.

7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping.

8. Almost Persuaded.--to face.

9. The Campaign.

10. Trapper's Miscellany.

Page 17 BOOK I.

TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME.

owever free our forests may be from the lurking dangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few large and formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjects of the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar, Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine.

Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectively in a later portion of this work, these animals are nevertheless often captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well known to the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in cases of emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps.

THE DEAD-FALL.

There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are described in other parts of this volume. In general construction they all bear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changed to suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals, and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure of the animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favorite haunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes. These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, about three inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as to reach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, this being the

required height of the pen. Its width should be about two and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the top should be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the bait from being Page 18 taken from above. A straight log, about eight inches in diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against the opening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on

8

each side, directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Another log, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twenty feet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness, we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. In order to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separate drawing of the parts as they appear when the trap is set (a). An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, having its flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven into the ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and should be three feet or more in height. Another post (b) of similar dimensions,

is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notch being reversed, i. e., having its flat side uppermost. This post should be set in the ground, outside of the pen, on the right hand side and on a line with the first. A third post (c), is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be planted outside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with the front. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet Page 19 in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends. At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which a stiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shown at (h). Two poles, (d) and (e), should next be procured, each about four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces, and the trap may then be set. Pass

the pole (d) between the stakes of the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post (a), and holding the other beneath the notch in the upright (b). The second pole (e) should then be adjusted, one end being placed in the crotch post (c), and the other caught beneath the projecting end of the pole (d), as is fully illustrated in the engraving. The dead-log should then be rested on the front extremity

of the pole last adjusted, thus effecting an equilibrium.

The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a short stick of wood (f), with its platform raised in front, and the upright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latch pole (d).

The best bait consists of honey, for which Bears have a remarkable fondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back part of the enclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the end of the pen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting heavy timbers against its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing, after which the machine is ready for its deadly work.

A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honey is in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears for him after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passing beneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad board

on the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. The upright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcing the latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the side pole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weight over the back of hapless Bruin.

There are many other methods of setting the Deadfall, several of which appear in another section of this book. The above is the one more commonly used for the capture of Bears, Page 20 but the others are equally applicable and effective when enlarged to the proper size.

In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards, and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almost the only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-fall often allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopard often terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited as seen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a most sure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporized at a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of

our northern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as the Leopard, is still a bloodthirsty creature, and while he shuns the gaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantly on the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguarded moment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion by his stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to his destruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe.

THE GUN TRAP.

After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfied his appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves the remainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquet is almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a by-gone feast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Any carcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist is sure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found to decrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certain place and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for their most certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed, and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weapon may be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavily loaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied to some tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground, the barrel being similarly supported.

The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and should be aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chance passer-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, but not capped, due caution being always used, and the cap adjusted the very last thing after the trap is baited and Page 21 set. Where a rifle is used, the cartridge should not be inserted until the last thing.

It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or two in length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside the guard in

9

front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Its other end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shown in our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, its length being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun to the end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook on one end. The other extremity should be attached by a string to the tip of the first slick.

Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hook in the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that the bait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supporting the bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in order to hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle.

The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjusting the cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure their perfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front will draw the short stick forward. This immediately Page 22 acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials, the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily, and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait will suffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly, the trap should

be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches, extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insure an approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now be placed on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be left to do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass should be removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented by other hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signal to guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may be arranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait. Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but where two or three pour their contents into his body, his death is an absolute certainty.

By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into the breast of the animal.

The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased in power by a larger number of guns.

There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger, passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick. This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches, and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at random it is nevertheless Page 23 often utilized and has brought many a dreaded marauder to his doom.

The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma. THE BOW TRAP.

This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known as the tiger trap.

It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made; two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed. This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length, perfectly straight, smooth and round, Page 24 and one third of an inch in diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned with thin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity should be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted in place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which is plainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine.

Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the gun trap,

10

and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought. In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge of the hole in the board, as seen at (a). Two large wire staples may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow through holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bend of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one end of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the other end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into the ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take up the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjust the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release the string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board, keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect working order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the very simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (b). On the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length is cut, with rounded ends, as seen

in the illustration. The bait stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the large end being trimmed so Page 25 as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration (b). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until the notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick very lightly above the arrow as shown at (b), propping it in place at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should consist of a portion

of some carcass, or if for other animals, any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used. In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent its removal and the trap will thus most surely be sprung. The prop which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserted a little to one side of the trap.

The bow should now be surrounded by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top of the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or branches laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, a double row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed, thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Without this precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and the arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the other hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim. Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strength of the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect is almost surely fatal.

Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger, forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used. The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The bow

is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick, with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt stick and the inside of the bow, the Page 26 remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally barbed with a steel or flint point,

and wound with thread saturated with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string. Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments, until he is released from his torments by the certain death which follows the course of the poison through his veins.

The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers; and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective without the venom.

THE DOWN-FALL.

This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why Page 27

it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals.

The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways; and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage. This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs. Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended.

The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft just behind the barbs,--a sort of combination between a spear and a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched into the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on account of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purpose of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, and filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The first requisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. This should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length. Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded, allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should then be Page 28 weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope, about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six

11

inches from the other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The

implement is now ready.

Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end

of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown

down, and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed

that the weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of the lever which passes over the limb of the tree,

and the tension on the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to hold the string without pulling out, and the side

of the notch should face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into the notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. The trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares make too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either side is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen the peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case,--down comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to its victim.

For large animals, this mode of setting will be found to work perfectly. When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified. It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,--a slight pressure being sufficient to dislodge it,--while the pressure Page 29 from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly inserted; but, to insure success, even with light pressure from either side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired. Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some object on the further

side of the path, it is well to provide the end of the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nail or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into an upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail should point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, and its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thus be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from the notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring from the nail.

This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals, on account of its being more sensitive.

Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be

dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its death-dealing qualities

THE BEAR TRAP.

This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized before the captive is brought under control.

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly driven

into the ground close together. For a large animal,--a bear, for instance,--the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, two and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be built in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, described in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance should be first set up. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should be cut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This should likewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end, so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the one side, and into the second pair of uprights Page 30 on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair, while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground, after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces. It should be made to slide smoothly into

grooves cut into perpendicular logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to slip easily between the flattened side

of one log on each side and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter an additional upright or short board should

be inserted in the ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed captive.

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There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration. An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut Page 31 to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop, or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on page 105 at (a), and, if

desired, the method (b) may be used also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scented with burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear into almost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the above he will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast of honey is in view.

For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction.

This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As the puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls, and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. This trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger, and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by the same devices.

THE PITFALL.

The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections of these countries are so terribly infested with Page 32 the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection. The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height. As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches the earth only

to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes the merciless

victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets.

Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required. The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and baited is a very sure trap. The hole should be about twelve feet in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its opening should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged as to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure. One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them.

They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure. Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he will be sure to pay it a call and probably a visit.

Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the Page 33 crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes and is lodged in the depths of the pit.

The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the digging which

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it necessitates. On this account it is not so much used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but much more easily

constructed. The following is an example:-- THE LOG COOP TRAP.

This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop

of logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house" fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united afterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67 works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait stick by a spindle, as described Page 34 for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such an angle as that it will be nearly poised,

the setting may be made so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The simplest mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary. A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet, at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds of American game are given under their respective heads in another part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions, from the small example on page (67) to the size above described.

There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which, by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing walls Page 35 of

the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement, spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dy-ing companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects are sometimes appalling.

THE NET TRAP.

The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work, tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the coop trap, page (67).

The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal,

in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait, which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves, and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky substance only succeeds in spreading

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it, and as he rolls and tumbles on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate himself.

In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes Page 36 an easy prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.

Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter, in the section "Art of Trapping."

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Page 39 BOOK II.

SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.

hese devices, although properly coming under the head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are generally understood. A snare naturally implies an entanglement; and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitchup" will be recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers, who

may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its misguided victim.

Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess one

advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods, and out of the commonest material.

Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet, and a stout, keen edged jackknife,--these being the only tools required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass "sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares, which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed. Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary

QUAIL SNARE,

which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They Page

40 may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire, horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into

the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration. The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn, oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food, they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally as certain

to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.

HOOP NOOSES.

This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts, which

are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance is complete.

This is a very old and approved method.

In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also Page 41 another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the bait adjusted as there seen.

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We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them, and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however, for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might desire to use them instead.

Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.

A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult. To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the loop from between the fingers as they are twisted, seems quite a complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted, the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess considerable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensively used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops, which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future, although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired.

There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed, as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery, are almost sure to become entangled Page 42 sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that they will always seek to pass under an object which comes in their way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is only a foot or more in

height, the birds will almost invariably run about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it. It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very short section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although never using a length greater than

ten feet. It is well to set the hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are known to run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose, but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary.

There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little known here. It is a tree trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle snare." It is not designed for the capture of any particular kind of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens. It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size, depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure. A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point. This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, falling low enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottom of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a berry, insect, or piece of Page 43 meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to set out with a dozen or so, hanging them

all in different parts of the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country. We recommend it with great confidence.

For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set" the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.

The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain, and for this reason are to be commended.

THE "TWITCH-UP."

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Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitchup" must be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it. This snare is a universal favorite among nearly all country boys, and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name, "The Twitchup," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our illustra-

tion represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided into two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which the noose is Page 44 spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the "upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on account of

the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering. Twitchups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that, too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days, was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any other kinds of traps he employed.

They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender, elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally to be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer very well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for the little inclosure shown Page 45 in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter, and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger, and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure.

We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture shows the method of setting the trap.

After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch.

To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again. It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure, until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut. The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration. The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely fill the arch,

Page 46 In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird must necessarily pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely touched, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into the air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the same cause.

It is not really necessary for success that the force of the sapling should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as being less painful and more rapid in its effects.

If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitchup" may be

used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon will occasionally be entrapped.

The next figure represents another method of constructing this trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together. They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose and drawstring now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece, and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be

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seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air.

In our next instance the same principle is employed. The Page 47 notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The drawstring should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (a), so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position.

A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the "Twitchup." Let the drawstring be tied to the end of one of these sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being brought out in front of it, and there supported by the baitstick, as seen

in our illustration. The noose should then be attached to the drawstring above the pen, and afterward brought down and arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will be found on trial to work admirably.

One of the simplest as well as surest of "Twitchup" traps forms the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with a circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose. It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (a) should be firmly inserted in the ground at Page 48 the back part of the pen; (b) the bait stick, consists of a straight twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the drawstring at about half an inch from the large end; (c) is another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side, letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the drawstring, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point of the forked stick (c) where it comes in contact with the bait stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently more easily thrown from its balance.

THE POACHER'S' SNARE.

Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in existence,--simple in construction, and almost infallible in its operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment for the jackknife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs heavily.

The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two

hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jackknife.

If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much easier,--mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary. The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an

inch from the tip. The upright Page 49 stick should be considerably shorter than the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily understood by a look at our illustration.

A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily carried by the young trapper, together with his other neces-

saries, as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring

the stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the required length for the drawstring attaching one end to the tip of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should then be attached to the drawstring about six inches above the catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed. Its entrance should be on the side furthest from the springer, and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap may be set.

Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by a

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pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration, always letting the baited end project toward the Page 50 opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the baitstick. By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost confidence in its ability to take

care of itself, and any unlucky intruder who tries to steal its property.

Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is more valuable.

THE PORTABLE SNARE.

This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure. It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in any place where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare" partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described, but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called by that name in countries where it is most used.

It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long, one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured by a wire or smooth nail Page 51 driven through so as to form a hinge, on which

it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two inches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that in the

upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length, and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces.

To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling, after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the upright

for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping. Tie a strong piece of twine around one Page 52 end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the tip of the sapling. Adjust

the bait stick on its pivot. By now lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches, in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind, the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares to test its efficacy. By adjust-

ing the drawstring so far as the upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited, so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty.

For portability, however, the following has no equal.

THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE.

This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at our engraving, which probably represents the simplest twitch-up it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the Page 53 ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the drawstring, and passed through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,--merely enough to prevent

the knot from slipping back. The noose should be fastened to the drawstring six or seven inches from the knot, and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience, and utilized in

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the same number of snares, in a very short time. We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, for portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above. We give also a few other applications of the same principle.

In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the noose arranged at the opening.

Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording a chance of securing two birds at the same time.

THE QUAIL SNARE.

That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known Page 54 to

all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than the snare

we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one. The principle

on which the trap works, is the same as in the three foregoing.

Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured; several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the trap set as already directed.

The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground, and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards

the "nub" on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air. This invention is original with the author of this work, so far as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail; but particularly because the pecking which it necessitates Page 55 in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait, if desired.

THE BOX SNARE.

This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may desire to test its merits. It may be set for rabbits, coon, or feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half inches from the back edge.

This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from

the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided with

a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (a). The object of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely through the hole by the Page 56 force of the pull from above. The catch piece should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in the peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described, and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling, inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium, and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose, and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around the neck of

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the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim; but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired, the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive.

We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required.

The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone, for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered game.

THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.

This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already been described, viz.--the knotted string. By many it Page 57 is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very efficient.

It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length, and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom

at the angle shown at (a). Should the switch fit loosely it may be easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait stick (b) should be about four inches in length, and large enough to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one end to the tip of Page 58 the switch and provide the other with a large double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity. Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness, the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the top of the bait stick, as shown at (b). This insertion need be only very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held

in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end. The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick. Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this variety, and there is none more effective.

The box snare already described may be set by the same method, and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from the simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall.

GROUND SNARES.

THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE.

This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely; and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will give an illustration of it as it appears when Page 59 set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (a), securing the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end to project an inch or more

beyond the other. This loop, which is called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and on the upper side of the large end and

about an inch from its tip, a notch should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long, should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at (b). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair, or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexible twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened at both ends, should be inserted in the ground

in the form of an arch (c), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the

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spreader exactly under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (d) should be driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The pieces are now ready to be Page 60 adjusted. Pass the curved end of the spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with the notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the notch in the spreader, the other

end resting against the upper part of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our drawing indicates, bringing it inside the peg, as there shown, as otherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, inside the spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait and hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released, the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggling creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter itself into a speedy death.

THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE.

The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader. On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire. It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge in approaching the Page 61 trap will have to step inside the noose in order to reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare; but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus torturing them to death, it is

to be deprecated. We would recommend in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death, either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard among the most humane traps on record.

THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.

For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful that the bait stick is set fine and rests just beneath the tip of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait will release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described, and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds to step inside of it in order to reach the bait.

THE PLATFORM SNARE.

This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap, and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light

board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff Page 62 switch

about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch, after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight weight on the platform to lower it from

its bearing, the weight of an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs, as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board, but in every case it should be tried several times in order to be sure that it works sensitively.

Page 63

Page 65 BOOK III.

TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.

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mong the following will be found the various net and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many of which are original with the author of this work and appear in the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of

THE SIEVE TRAP.

This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--it is not complicated. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to be rewarded for his pains,--if he wait long enough. This of course depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting is unrewarded.

The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment, when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs, seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners. The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop

trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of Page 66 itself. Where the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue the self-acting trap is better.

THE BRICK TRAP.

This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.

Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our engraving, letting them rest on their narrow sides. If properly arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the shape shown in the separate drawing (b) having a small piece cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground. The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward, or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of the fork, over

the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick, which should be rested upon it. The drawing (b) clearly shows the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When Page 67 the bird flies to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting fall the sustained brick.

It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little contrivance, and can be made with a box instead of bricks, if desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick, and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird.

THE COOP TRAP.

This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our engraving (b) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts out with material sufficient Page 68 for several coops, and if he is smart will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a forenoon.

In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot come on the inside as our illustration (a) explains and leaving a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay the two selected sticks across the ends of the Page 69 uppermost two of the

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square, and directly above the lower two. Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous, the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to only four or five inches across. The square board will now come into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown

at (b). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will last for many seasons. To set the affair it is necessary to cut three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from the tip to the base

of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these twigs may be easily found in any thicket by

a little practice in searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the short arm of the Page 70 spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nan-nie berries" or the like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground directly beneath and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if they had been brought up to it.

The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop. When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders, but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will be seen that the whole body of the bird must be beneath the coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless in comparison.

THE BAT FOWLING NET.

With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in

this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern, and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured.

Page 71 Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles,

about eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached, and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen in the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag, about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is used

as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a dark night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer a favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual sounds.

Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds the light, which is generally a dark lantern, another takes the net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The dark lantern in

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itself is useful without the net. The light often so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the lantern and flutters to the

ground, where it may be easily taken with the hand. Page 72 THE CLAP NET.

In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood, and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a "decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers with the use of this little whistle, is something surprising.

No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrush or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves. Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn to use the whistle to good advantage.