A Recipe for Gentrification

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Группа авторов. A Recipe for Gentrification

CONTENTS

Introduction

What Does Food Bring to Gentrification Scholarship?

What Does Gentrification Bring to Food Scholarship?

The Landscape to Come

REFERENCES

PART I. Dining Downtown

1. The Taste of Gentrification

Place and the Social Production of Taste

The Taste of Gentrification

Urban Geographies of Food Gentrification

Authenticity, Democracy, and Community

Conclusion

NOTES

REFERENCES

2. Savior Entrepreneurs and Demon Developers

Durham, North Carolina

Durham’s Food Scene

Savior Entrepreneurs and Demon Developers

Conclusion

NOTES

REFERENCES

3. Making Sense of “Local Food,” Urban Revitalization, and Gentrification in Oklahoma City

Before Revitalization and Local Food in Oklahoma City

The Oklahoma Food Cooperative and the Emergence of Local Food

Catering to the “Creative Class” in Revitalizing Oklahoma City

Stasis: Cooptation and Fetishization

Conclusion: Following Lines of Flight toward Alternate Futures

NOTES

REFERENCES

PART II. Ripe for Growth

4. The Urban Agriculture Fix

Uneven Development and Urban Agriculture Fixes

Recession, Housing Collapse, and Job Loss

Urban Agriculture Interventions for “Sustainable” Development

Reflections on the Strategic Political Marginalization of Urban Agriculture

Conclusion: Fixing Urban Agriculture in an Era of Green Gentrification?

NOTES

REFERENCES

5. From the Holy Trinity to Microgreens

Pamela’s Story

Gentrification of Foodways in the Post-Disaster City

Urban Gardening and Foodways in New Orleans Before 2005

Post-Katrina and the Emergence of New Foodways and Urban Agriculture

New Locals Growing

Framing the New Urban Agriculture Narratives

Engaging the Local Residents and Communities

Growing Local Food

Urban Agriculture and Gentrification of Foodways

NOTES

REFERENCES

6. The Cost of Low-Hanging Fruit?

An Orchard Takes Root in North Portland

A Fruitful Collaboration?

Modes of Communication

Decision-making

Formalizing Volunteers

Management Practices and Aesthetics

Conclusion

NOTES

REFERENCES

7. Gardens in the Growth Machine

The P-Patch Phenomenon

Behind the Scenes: Internal Concerns About Growth

Public Participation: Alignment with Growth Coalition Goals

The P-Patch Gardens Today

NOTES

REFERENCES

PART III. Uneven Alliances

8. Diverse Politics, Difficult Contradictions

San Francisco Urban Agriculture, City Government, and the Formation of the SFUAA

Gentrification in the San Francisco Context

Case Stories from SFUAA. UA Legislation #1: Zoning Changes, 2011–2012

UA Legislation #2: Urban Agriculture Program (2013)

Position on Gentrification (2012)

Urban Agriculture Incentives Zone Act—AB 551 (2013)

AB 551 and (Acceptable?) Land Insecurity

Conclusion

NOTES

REFERENCES

9 “Ethical” Gentrification as a Preemptive Strategy

Restaurant Reviews and Neighborhood Change

The Downtown Eastside: A History of Contentious Politics

Cultural Omnivores in the Downtown Eastside: Constructing the Meaning of Affordable Gourmet Dining in a Low-Income Neighborhood

Social Enterprise in the Downtown Eastside: Restaurateurs “Giving Back” to the Community

Community Resistance to Social Enterprise: Low-Income Residents Redefine Affordability

The Paradox of Caring Capitalism in Low-Income Neighborhoods: How Social Enterprise Preempts Resistance to Gentrification

Conclusion: Ethical Gentrification as a Pathway to Material and Symbolic Dispossession

NOTES

REFERENCES

10 “You Can’t Evict Community Power”

Food Activism and the Question of Gentrification

Saying No to NOBE

From Porta Potties to Permaculture

Oakland Communities United for Equity and Justice

Conclusion

Postscript

NOTE

REFERENCES

PART IV. Growing Resistance

11. Community Gardens and Gentrification in New York City

Naturalized Cultural Norms and Accommodation in Astoria

From Resistance to Displacement in Bed-Stuy

The Community Gardens of East New York: Against Displacement, For Food Justice

Community Gardens and the Politics of Gentrification

NOTES

REFERENCES

12. No Se Vende

Humboldt Park, Chicago

The Food “Frontier” and Social Preservationists

Resisting and Reimagining Gentrification Through Food

Conclusion

NOTE

REFERENCES

13. Black Urban Growers and the Land Question in Cleveland

Historical Geographical Background

Growing on Vacant Land: Perspective of the State

Black Urban Growers in Cleveland: An Epistemic Divide

Urban Renewal: Revitalization, Gentrification, and the Land Question

Conclusion

NOTES

REFERENCES

14. Citified Sovereignty

Desert or Deserted? The South Los Angeles Foodscape

Citified Sovereignty: Autonomous Urban Food Systems in Los Angeles

Community Services Unlimited: Serving the People Body and Soul

Mitigating Green Gentrification and the Non-Profit Industrial Complex

Conclusion

NOTES

REFERENCES

A Conflicted Conclusion

Food and Gentrification in Theory

Food and Gentrification in Praxis

Ways to Combat Gentrification: A Question of Scales of Food Justice

REFERENCES

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

ABOUT THE EDITORS

ABOUT THE CONTRIBUTORS

INDEX

Отрывок из книги

A RECIPE FOR GENTRIFICATION

Food, Power, and Resistance in the City

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Gentrification transforms a neighborhood in many ways. Crime rates decrease, real estate markets expand, infrastructure improves, and new businesses and amenities become available. While some long-term residents can benefit from these changes, displacement limits the extent to which they can take advantage of these positive outcomes. Displacement follows the racialized contours of development as low-income communities of color are increasingly subject to police scrutiny at the behest of new residents (Ospina 2015; Shaw 2015) and are pushed out of their homes, at best resettling in less expensive areas and at worst becoming homeless (Applied Survey Research 2015; Slater 2006). But to focus strictly on the residential and commercial realities of this process would be to miss the significant social and cultural dimensions of displacement (Hyra 2008; Ocejo 2011; Zukin 1987, 2009).

In the public eye, the most notable signs of gentrification are changes in amenities and infrastructure, including artisanal coffee shops, brunch-serving cafes, and farm-to-table restaurants. As the vignettes that begin this chapter indicate, food retail and foodways have become flash points signifying whose food matters. For long-term residents, these changes are not simply economic transitions; they signify the loss of their way of life and sense of local ownership. Because food is such a mundane yet vitally multifaceted part of our everyday lives, it can bring together structural and cultural approaches to the processes, consequences, and trajectories of gentrification that are intimately linked in the popular imagination.

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