Havana without Makeup
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Оглавление
Herman Portocarero. Havana without Makeup
Отрывок из книги
¿Qué quedaría de aquella ciudad castigada y envejecida que llevaba en el corazón . . . ?
Posiblemente nada . . . Quedaría, si acaso, la memoria, sí, la memoria . . .
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Large sections of the city are elegant ruins. For the purpose of tourism and the preservation of historical heritage, parts of Habana Vieja – the colonial city – have been and are still being beautifully restored. Much respect is due to city historian Eusebio Leal, who has overseen this restoration since the 1980s, masterfully blending history with the present, and who has skillfully avoided turning the old city into a sterile theme park, maintaining a living city while catering to the demands and expectations of foreign visitors. No place on earth has been more soulfully preserved and brought back to life than Habana Vieja.
But follow me now into some ordinary outlying neighborhoods, cutting through the decidedly un-touristy barrios of Centro Habana, Diez de Octubre, Luyano, La Víbora, Lacret, Lawton, Santos Suárez . . . Everywhere, even in the remote suburbs, you will see the same once-grand buildings with their galleries and sculptured terraces, transformed into improvised multifamily dwellings of often astonishing complexity, lived in by the liveliest and most quick-eyed of inhabitants, ready to seize the moment and the fleeting happiness of music and a bottle of rum, alongside the philosophical beggar and the staunch communist unwilling to concede defeat.
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