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‘Synge’s travel writings are particularly fascinating’

The Irish Times

‘Synge’s Ireland will always strike an echo’

Times Literary Supplement

J. M. Synge, playwright, poet, essayist and translator, was a key figure in the Irish Literary Renaissance. Born in County Dublin in 1871, he studied at Trinity College Dublin and then at the Royal Irish Academy of Music. With Lady Gregory, William Butler Yeats and others, he was a co-founder and later a director of the Abbey Theatre. He is best known for The Playboy of the Western World, which famously provoked a riot on its opening night, and his travel writing – notably, The Aran Islands and Travels in Wicklow, West Kerry and Connemara. He died in 1909, aged thirty-seven.

Paddy Woodworth was for many years an Irish Times journalist and is the author of Dirty War, Clean Hands: ETA, the GAL and Spanish Democracy and The Basque Country: A Cultural History.

J.M. Synge

Travels in Wicklow, West Kerry and Connemara

Foreword by Paddy Woodworth

Serif

London

This e-book first published 2015 by

Serif

47 Strahan Road

London E3 5DA

www.serifbooks.co.uk

First published, in a slightly different form, by Serif in 2005

This expanded edition first published by Serif in 2009

Originally published as In Wicklow, West Kerry and Connemara in 1911 by Maunsel & Co. Ltd, Dublin

Foreword copyright © Paddy Woodworth, 2005, 2015

Corrections to this edition copyright © Stephen Hayward, 2005, 2009, 2015

This edition copyright © Serif, 2005, 2009, 2015

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted or stored in a retrieval system, in any form or by any means, without prior permission in writing from the publishers.

ISBN 978 1 909150 49 2

e-book produced by Will Dady

Cover design by Will Dady

Contents

Foreword by Paddy Woodworth

In Wicklow

The Vagrants of Wicklow

The Oppression of the Hills

On the Road

The People of the Glens

At a Wicklow Fair

A Landlord’s Garden in County Wicklow

Glencree

In West Kerry

In Connemara

From Galway to Gorumna

Between the Bays of Carraroe

Among the Relief Works

The Ferryman of Dinish Island

The Kelp Makers

The Boat Builders

The Homes of the Harvestmen

The Smaller Peasant Proprietors

Erris

The Inner Lands of Mayo

The Small Town

Possible Remedies

Publisher’s Note

Serif Travel Library

Travels in Wicklow, West Kerry and Connemara

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