The Land of Thor
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John Ross Browne. The Land of Thor
CHAPTER I. IMPRESSIONS OF ST. PETERSBURG
CHAPTER II. A PLEASANT EXCURSION
CHAPTER III. VIEWS ON THE MOSCOW RAILWAY
CHAPTER IV. MOSCOW
CHAPTER V. TEA-DRINKING
CHAPTER VI. THE PETERSKOI GARDENS
CHAPTER VII. THE “LITTLE WATER.”
CHAPTER VIII. THE MARKETS OF MOSCOW
CHAPTER IX. THE NOSE REGIMENT
CHAPTER X. THE EMPEROR’S BEAR-HUNT
CHAPTER XI. RUSSIAN HUMOR
CHAPTER XII. A MYSTERIOUS ADVENTURE
CHAPTER XIII. THE DENOUEMENT
CHAPTER XIV. THE KREMLIN
CHAPTER XV. RUSSIAN MANNERS AND CUSTOMS
CHAPTER XVI. DESPOTISM versus SERFDOM
CHAPTER XVII. REFORM IN RUSSIA
CHAPTER XVIII. A BOND OF SYMPATHY
CHAPTER XIX. CIVILIZATION IN RUSSIA
CHAPTER XX. PASSAGE TO REVEL
CHAPTER XXI. REVEL AND HELSINGFORS
CHAPTER XXII. A BATHING SCENE
CHAPTER XXIII. ABO – FINLAND
CHAPTER XXIV. STOCKHOLM
CHAPTER XXV. WALKS ABOUT STOCKHOLM
CHAPTER XXVI. THE GOTHA CANAL
CHAPTER XXVII. VOYAGE TO CHRISTIANIA
CHAPTER XXVIII. FROM CHRISTIANIA TO LILLEHAMMER
CHAPTER XXIX. HOW THEY TRAVEL IN NORWAY
CHAPTER XXX. A NORWEGIAN GIRL
CHAPTER XXXI. HOW THEY LIVE
CHAPTER XXXII. JOHN BULL ABROAD
CHAPTER XXXIII. WOMEN IN NORWAY AND GERMANY
CHAPTER XXXIV. DOWN THE DRIVSDAL
CHAPTER XXXV. A NORWEGIAN HORSE-JOCKEY
CHAPTER XXXVI. OUT OF MONEY
CHAPTER XXXVII. ICELANDIC TRAVEL
CHAPTER XXXVIII. HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN
CHAPTER XXXIX. VOYAGE TO SCOTLAND
CHAPTER XL. THE JOLLY BLOODS
CHAPTER XLI. THE FAROE ISLANDS
CHAPTER XLII. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ICELAND
CHAPTER XLIII. REYKJAVIK, THE CAPITAL OF ICELAND
CHAPTER XLIV. GEIR ZÖEGA
CHAPTER XLV. THE ENGLISH TOURISTS
CHAPTER XLVI. THE ROAD TO THINGVALLA
CHAPTER XLVII. THE ALMANNAJAU
CHAPTER XLVIII. THINGVALLA
CHAPTER XLIX. THE ROAD TO THE GEYSERS
CHAPTER L. THE GEYSERS
CHAPTER LI. THE ENGLISH SPORTS IN TROUBLE
CHAPTER LII. A FRIGHTFUL ADVENTURE
Отрывок из книги
On the present occasion, after we had passed the usual compliments it was proposed that we should hire a boat, as the night was fine, and take a trip down to the Kamennoi Island. I was delighted to have two such agreeable companions, and readily acceded to the proposition. A young Russian in the hemp business accompanied us, and altogether we made a very lively and humorous party. I was sorry, however, to be prejudiced in the estimation of the Russian by having the hemp and handspike story repeated in my presence, but finally got over that, and changed the current of the conversation by asking if the Emperor Alexander would send me to Siberia in case I smoked a cigar in the boat? To which the Russian responded somewhat gravely that I could smoke as many cigars on the water as I pleased, although it was forbidden in the streets on account of the danger of fire; but that, in any event, I would merely have to pay a fine, as people were only sent to Siberia for capital crimes and political offenses.
The constant dread of infringing upon the police regulations; the extraordinary deference with which men in uniform are regarded; the circumspect behavior at public places; the nice and well-regulated mirthfulness, never overstepping the strict bounds of prudence, which I had so often noticed in the northern states of Germany, and which may in part be attributed to the naturally conservative and orderly character of the people, are not the prominent features of the population of St. Petersburg. It appeared to me that in this respect at least they are more like Americans than any people I had seen in Europe; they do pretty much as they please; follow such trades and occupations as they like best; become noisy and uproarious when it suits them; get drunk occasionally; fight now and then; lie about on the grass and under the trees when they feel tired; enjoy themselves to their heart’s content at all the public places; and care nothing about the police as long as the police let them alone. I rather fancied there must be a natural democratic streak in these people, for they are certainly more free and easy in their manners, rougher in their dress, more independent in their general air, and a good deal dirtier than most of the people I had met with in the course of my travels. I do not mean to say that rowdyism and democracy are synonymous, but I consider it a good sign of innate manliness and a natural spirit of independence when men are not afraid to dress like vagabonds and behave a little extravagantly, if it suits their taste. It must be said, however, that the police regulations or St. Petersburg, without being onerous or vexatious, are quite as good as those of any large city in Europe. When men are deprived of their political liberties, the least that can be done for them is to let them enjoy as much municipal freedom as may be consistent with public peace. I should never have suspected, from any thing I saw in the city or neighborhood of St. Petersburg, that I was within the limits of an absolute despotism. If one desires to satisfy himself on this point he must visit the interior.
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Not long after the departure of the Siberian prisoners, I witnessed, in passing along one of the principal streets, a grand funeral procession. The burial of the dead is a picturesque and interesting ceremony in Moscow. A body of priests, dressed in black robes and wearing long beards, take the lead in the funeral cortége, bearing in their hands shrines and burning tapers. The hearse follows, drawn by four horses. Black plumes wave from the heads of the horses, and flowing black drapery covers their bodies and legs. Even their heads are draped in black, nothing being perceptible but their eyes. The coffin lies exposed on the top of the hearse, and is also similarly draped. This combination of sombre plumage and drapery has a singularly mournful appearance. Priests stand on steps attached to the hearse holding images of the Savior over the coffin; others follow in the rear, comforting the friends and relatives of the deceased. A wild, monotonous chant is sung from time to time by the chief mourners as the procession moves toward the burial-ground. The people cease their occupations in the streets through which the funeral passes, uncover their heads, and, bowing down before the images borne by the priests, utter prayers for the repose of the dead. The rich and the poor of both sexes stand upon the sidewalks and offer up their humble petitions. The deep-tongued bells of the Kremlin ring out solemn peals, and the wild and mournful chant of the priests mingles with the grand knell of death that sweeps through the air. All is profoundly impressive: the procession of priests, with their burning tapers; the drapery of black on the horses; the coffin with its dead; the weeping mourners; the sepulchral chant; the sudden cessation of all the business of life, and the rapt attention of the multitude; the deep, grand, death-knell of the bells; the glitter of domes and cupolas on every side; the green-roofed sea of houses; the winding streets, and the costumes of the people – form a spectacle wonderfully wild, strange, and mournful. In every thing that comes within the sweep of the eye there is a mixed aspect of Tartaric barbarism and European civilization. Yet even the stranger from a far-distant clime, speaking another language, accustomed to other forms, must feel, in gazing upon such a scene, that death levels all distinctions of race – that our common mortality brings us nearer together. Every where we are pilgrims on the same journey. Wherever we sojourn among men,
A single night’s entertainment such as this must cost many thousand rubles. When it is considered that there are but few months in the year when such things can be enjoyed, some idea may be formed of the characteristic passion of the Russians for luxurious amusements. It is worthy of mention, too, that the decorations, the lamps, the actors and operators, the material of nearly every description, are imported from various parts of the world, and very little is contributed in any way by the native Russians, save the means by which these costly luxuries are obtained.
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