The Bag Making Bible

The Bag Making Bible
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The ultimate practical guide to sewing fabulous bags from expert Lisa Lam! Detailed photographs illustrate every technique in this unique book, from choosing fabric to inserting fastenings Expert tips, trade secrets and inspirational advice result in professional and beautiful results A capsule wardrobe of eight exclusive designs features easy-to-follow instructions and full-size patterns Whether you're getting started, improving your technique, or want to design your own, this is the book you'll grab for every bag you make!

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Lisa Lam. The Bag Making Bible

Contents. Foreword by Amy Butler. Introduction. Basic Equipment. The Sewing Machine. Anatomy of a Bag. 1: Getting Started. Make it… The Versatile Book Bag. 2: Choosing Fabrics. Make it… The Reversible Bucket Bag. 3: Structure And Reinforcement. Make it… The Cocktail Ruffle Clutch. 4: Linings. Make it…The Organized Office Bag. 5: Closures. Make it… The Oversized Fashionista Bag. 6: Handles And Straps. Make it… The Great Getaway Bag. 7: Pockets. Make it… The Multi-Tasking Tote. 8: Edgings and Trimmings. Make it… The Piping-Hot Hobo. Construction. Suppliers. About the Author. Copyright

Dedication

Foreword

Introduction

Basic Equipment

Cutting

Marking, measuring and pinning

Bag-making tools

The Sewing Machine

Machine feet

Machine stitches

Anatomy of a Bag

First impressions

Just around the corner

What’s inside counts

1: Getting Started

Using Patterns

Label snob …

Understanding Patterns

Language skills …

Glossary of terms and abbreviations

Fabric Preparation and Cutting

Fabric preparation tips

Spray away …

Fabric cutting tips

Modifying Patterns

Increasing the size

Decreasing the size

Make it…The Versatile Book Bag

Need to know

Easy as Pie & Flat-bottomed girl

You will need. For each bag

Preparation. Cut the fabric pieces as follows:

Also cut:

Assemble Easy as Pie

Box clever …

Happy handles …

Assemble Flat-Bottomed Girl

Peek-a-Boo Pleats

You will need

Preparation. Cut the fabric pieces as follows:

Also cut:

Assemble the bag

2: Choosing Fabrics

Feeling good …

Fabric Types

Oilcloth know-how …

Working with Colour and Pattern

Playing with colour

Using Texture

Playing with pattern

Sourcing fabrics for bag making

Interfacing and Interlining

What’s the difference between interfacing and interlining?

Label logic …

Need to know

Ironing on interfacing

Sewing in interlining

Weights of interfacing and interlining

The great experiment

Stick it to me!

Make it…The Reversible Bucket Bag

Need to know

You will need

Preparation. Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows:

Also cut:

Funky fabrics …

The binding, button loop, self-cover button and interfacing

The bag exterior

The bag lining

Assembling the bag

The bag lining

The side top edges and handles

3: Structure And Reinforcement

Turn up the volume …

Darts

You will need

Testing times …

Need to know

Strength and beauty …

Pleats

You will need

Need to know

Pleat practice …

Sitting pretty …

Gussets

You will need

Need to know

Dig deep …

Less is more …

Flat Bottoms

You will need

Need to know

Mock it up …

Gathers

You will need

Graceful gathers …

Need to know

Reinforcement

Make it… The Cocktail Ruffle Clutch

Need to know

You will need

Preparation. Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows:

Also cut:

The handle

The ruffle trim

The bag exterior

Leather know-how …

The bag lining

The bag flap

Assembling the bag

4: Linings

Quick cuts …

Line ‘em up …

Flush Zip Pocket

You will need

Need to know

Cut down to size …

Zip Partition Pocket

You will need

Need to know

Pocket width …

Inserting Linings: Drop-In Method

You will need

Need to know

Short and sweet …

Fray away …

Inserting Linings: Pull Through and Turn Out Method

You will need

Need to know

Mystery movements …

Make it…The Organized Office Bag

Need to know

You will need

Preparation. Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows:

Also cut:

The interfacing, gusset, strap and laptop harness

The bag exterior

The bag lining

The bag flap

Assembling the bag

5: Closures

The professionals …

Zips

Put on weight …

Need to know

Snaps and locks

Opposites attract …

Pulling power …

Eyelets and rivets

Living together …

Top Edge Zip

You will need

Need to know

Careful clipping …

Concealed Top Edge Zip

You will need

Need to know

Perfect symmetry …

Box Top Zip

You will need

Need to know

General advice

Snaps

You will need. Magnetic snap

Invisible magnetic snap

Need to know

Magnetic snap

Invisible magnetic snap

Twist Lock

You will need

Need to know

Call for reinforcements …

One snip at a time …

Make it… The Oversized Fashionista Bag

Need to know

You will need

Preparation. Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows:

Also cut:

The interfacing, strap and handle

The bag exterior

Rivet rivet …

The bag lining

The bag flap

Assembling the bag

Take your time …

6: Handles And Straps

Window shopping …

Open-End Straps

You will need

Need to know

Closed-End Straps

You will need

Need to know

Two-Faced Straps

You will need

Need to know

Iron with care …

Hook and Ring Straps

You will need

Need to know

Strapping suggestion …

Adjustable Straps

You will need

Need to know

Piped Handles

You will need

Need to know

No trigger hooks handy? …

SIX IDEAS FOR ‘UPCYCLING’ ITEMS TO MAKE BAG HANDLES

Ready-Made Handles

WHY USE READY-MADE HANDLES?

Types of ready-made handles

Make it… The Great Getaway Bag

Need to know

You will need

Preparation. Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows:

Also cut:

Stay organized …

Interfacing, strap and handles and zip preparation

The bag exterior

Pipe dreams …

The box top zip (exterior)

Assembling the bag exterior

The bag lining

The box top zip (lining)

Assembling the bag

Box top zip – final assembly

7: Pockets

Pockets of creativity …

Slip Pocket

You will need

Need to know

Metal-free zone …

Lined Slip Pocket

You will need

Need to know

Pocket protection …

Bellows Pocket

You will need

Need to know

Pocket placement …

Pockets too thick? …

Elasticized-Top Pocket

You will need

Need to know

Channel tunnel …

Darted-Corner Pocket

You will need

Need to know

Fastening fun …

Make it…The Multi-Tasking Tote

Need to know

You will need

Preparation. Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows:

Also cut:

Label logic …

The tabs, handles, ties and bound edge pockets

The bag exterior

The bag lining

Assembling the bag

8: Edgings and Trimmings

Upcycle and away …

Two types of binding – straight or bias

Making Your Own Bias Binding

Bound Edges

You will need

Need to know

Piped Edges

You will need

Need to know

In the groove …

Shopping for Trimmings

At source …

Make it… The Piping-Hot Hobo

Need to know

You will need

Preparation. Cut the fabric and interfacing pieces as follows:

Also cut:

Interfacing and central gusset seam

The handle loops

The bag exterior

The bag lining

The bag flap

Best foot forward …

Assembling the bag

Confidence booster …

Assembling the bag

Construction

General order of bag making preparation

Smooth operator …

General order of bag lining construction

General order of bag exterior construction

Suppliers

UK

USA

About the Author

Acknowledgments

Claim your FREE craft eBook! Download a fabulous FREE D&C eBook from our handpicked selection at: www.stitchcraftcreate.co.uk/bookclub

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All full-size templates can be downloaded at: www.stitchcraftcreate.co.uk/patterns

You get 150% of Lisa all the time. She’s super smart and super talented and the best part is she makes herself available to everyone with her care, thoughtfulness wit and charm. She’s pretty darn funny too, sly and always effervescent. Now she’d be the first person to scoff at my compliments, because she’s very down to earth, but in this situation, I have the upper hand so she’s just going to have to take all the praise! You need to understand these things about Lisa because that’s how special this book is. True to form, Lisa gives so much of herself, her knowledge, experience, patience and limitless ideas for bag making… truly a bible indeed. She leaves nothing to chance because of her passion for empowering other sewists. She wants everyone to succeed and be inspired.

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1 Cut the fabric and stitch the bag together – cut the pattern pieces exactly as listed for the Easy as Pie bag and stitch together following steps 1–4 of that bag (previous page and above).

2 Insert a flat bottom into the bag – with the bag WSO, follow steps 2–4 of Flat Bottoms to insert a flat bottom. From the tip of the triangle measure and mark 2.5cm (1in) on the seam for the bag bottom depth.

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