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May Martin. May Martin’s Sewing Bible: 40 years of tips and tricks
Copyright
Contents
Introduction
A Place to Sew & the Equipment you Need
Essentials for your Sewing Space
Essential Tools
Essential Tools 1
Essential Tools 1
Essential Tools 2
Essential Tools 2
Useful Additions to your Kit
Sewing Machine
Overlocker
Iron & Ironing Board
Tailor’s Dummy
Customising a Tailor’s Dummy
The Raw Materials
Fabric for Craft or Home-Furnishing Projects
Choosing Fabric for your Dressmaking Project
Fabric with a nap or one-way pattern
Lining
Interfacing
Types of interfacing
Top Tip
Thread
Buying good quality and new
Types of thread
Notions
Paper Patterns
Choosing a Pattern for your Dressmaking Project
Following a pattern
Pattern envelope
Inside the Envelope
Pattern Markings
Laying the Paper Pattern along the Grain
Woven Fabric
Knitted Fabric
Laying out a paper pattern on fabric without a nap or pattern
Laying out a paper pattern on fabric with a nap or pattern
Straightening the Edge of the Fabric
Table edge
Gridded ruler
Transferring Pattern Markings onto Fabric
Tracing wheel and dressmaker’s carbon (tracing) paper
How to use
Tailor’s Tacks
Marking darts and single dots on the pattern
Transferring lines
Top Tip
Clipping Detail Lines
Dressmaker’s Chalk & Marker Pens
Pin-Fitting a Paper Pattern
Altering a Paper Pattern
Lengthening or shortening a paper pattern
A generous seam allowance!
Making a Toile
General Dressmaking Tips
Top Tip
Hand Stitches
Sewing Machine
Sewing-Machine Feet
Standard Machine Feet
Specialised Machine Feet
Sewing-Machine Needles
Needle Size
Top Tips
Needle Types & Uses
Bobbins
Tension
How Tension is Controlled
Upper thread tension
Lower thread tension
Balancing tension
Troubleshooting
Machine Stitches
Straight Stitch & Zigzag Stitch
Application of Straight Stitch
Staystitching
Understitching
Topstitching
Edge stitching
Application of Zigzag Stitch
Bar tack
Three-step zigzag
Stretch Stitches
Tips for Sewing Seams
Guiding Your Machine Stitching
Positioning the machine needle and foot
Guide bars
Guide lines
Starting & Finishing a Row of Machining
Sewing Around Curves & Corners
Sewing Thick Layers
Top Tip
Buttonholes
Preparing to Sew
Sewing a Buttonhole
One-step buttonhole
Four-step buttonhole
Cutting the Buttonhole
Twin Needles
Twin-Needle Sign
Needle Size
Sewing with Twin Needles. Topstitching
Pin-tucking a piece of fabric
Shortening a T-shirt
Stitching a seam on a jersey garment
General Tips for Machine Sewing
Troubleshooting
Upper thread breaking
Bottom thread breaking
Uneven stitch length or faulty stitches
Needle breaks
Puckered fabric
Overlocker
Four-Thread & Three-Thread Stitching
Threading an Overlocker
Re-Threading An Overlocker
Thread Breaks While Sewing
Tension
Balanced Tension
Adjusting the Tension
General Tips for Sewing with an Overlocker
Differential Feed
Setting the Differential Feed
Differential Feed Settings
Seams
Tacking
Plain Seam
French Seam
Flat Fell Seam
Trimming & Clipping
Trimming & Layering
Clipping
Notching with Pinking Shears
Hems
Ensuring a Hem is Level
Finishing Hems by Hand
Blind-stitched hem
Slip hemming or slip-stitched hem
Finishing Hems by Machine
Blind-stitched hem
Double-turned hem
Machine-rolled hem
Pin hem
Tucked hem
Decorative hem
Shaped hem
Pressing
Pressing guidelines
Mitring a Corner
Single-Fold Mitre
Double-Fold Mitre
Darts
Single-Pointed Dart
Double-Pointed Dart
Gathering
Top Tip
Facings
Fitting
Interfacing
Armhole Facing
Neck Facing
Combined Neck & Armhole Facing
Waist Facing
Attaching A Collar with A Facing
Preparing the Front Facings
Making the Collar
Attaching the Collar & Facings
Neatening the Back Neck Edge
Set-in Sleeves
Casings
Attaching Flat Elastic
Narrow Elastic
Wide Elastic
Double Frill
Making binding
Cutting & Joining Strips of Fabric
Cutting straight strips
Cutting bias strips
Joining the strips
Using a Bias Binding & Tape Maker
How to operate
Using Bias Tape as an Edge Binding or Facing
Double Binding a Corner
Magic Rouleaux
Basic Rouleau
Super-Fine Rouleau
Reinforced Rouleau
Variation
Attaching Lace
Covering Buttons
Top Tip
Sewing on a Button with a Shank
Inserting & Altering Zips
Inserting a Zip
Shortening a Zip
Centred or Semi-Concealed Zip
Quilting
Starting to Quilt
Paper-Backed Fusible Web
Appliqué
Stitching fusible web
Functional Uses
Invisible repairs
Patches
No.1 Table Runner
You will Need
Assembly
No.2 Napkins & Napkin Rings
You will Need
Cutting out and Assembly. Napkins
Napkin rings
Folded rose motifs
No. 3 Log Cabin Patchwork
Place Mat
You will Need
Cutting out and Assembly
Table Runner. You will Need
Cutting out and Assembly
Top Tip
Play Mat
You will Need
Cutting out and Assembly. Courthouse steps
Concentric squares
Top Tip
No.4 Express Bunting
You will Need
Cutting out & Assembly
Making the bunting
Variations
Top Tip
No.5 Doorway Puppet Theatre
You will Need
Cutting out and Assembly. Bottom Panel
Side Panels
Top Panel
Curtains
Assembling the theatre
Attaching to a doorway
Top Tip
No.6 Hand Puppets
You will Need
Cutting Out. City Mouse parts
Assembly
Variations
Top Tip
No.7 Christmas Decorations
Hexagon Star. You will Need
Cutting out and Assembly
Field Flower. You will Need
Cutting out and Assembly
Variations
No.8 Christmas Stocking
You will Need
Top Tip
Cutting Out
Assembly
Variations
Top Tip
No.9 Sewing Tidy Bag
You will Need
Cutting Out. Main fabric
Lining
Scrap fabric
Assembly. Outer bag and lining
Strap
Assembling the bag and pin cushion
Top Tip
No.10 Pyramid Box
You will Need
Cutting out and Assembly. Templates and box card
Outer and inner triangles
Pocket
Pin cushion
Needle case booklet
Making up the box
Variations
Top Tip
No.1 CUSHIONS
Wrapped Cushion Cover
Measuring Up
You will Need
Assembly
Boxed Cushion Cover
Measuring Up
You will Need
Cutting Out
Assembly
Easy Oxford Cover
Measuring Up
You will Need
Assembly
Top Tip
Piped Cushion Cover
Measuring Up
You will Need
Cutting Out
Assembly
No.2 Roman Blind
Measuring Up
You will Need
Top Tip
Assembly
Attaching fastenings and hanging the blind
No.3 Curtains
You will Need
Measuring Up
Curtain Fabric Calculations
Main Fabric: Plain
Main Fabric: Patterned
Lining
Fabric Preparation
Joining Drops and Pattern Matching
Assembly
Hemming the curtains
Lining
Making a Mitre
Joining the lining to the curtains
Attaching the heading tape
Covering a curtain weight (optional)
Cord tidy bag (optional)
Hanging the curtains
Top Tips
No.1 Snood
You will Need
Cutting Out
Assembly
Variation
No.2 Man’s Apron
You will Need
Cutting Out. Main fabric
Assembly
Ties and neck band
Pocket
Top Tip
No.3 Child’s Smock Apron Ellie Mae K154
You will Need
Assembly
Cloud pocket
Binding
Top Tip
No.4 Cape Butterick B4266
You will Need
Assembly. Making a curved hem
Shrinking a woollen hem into shape
Rouleau button loops
No.5 Bucket Bag
You will Need
Cutting Out
Assembly
Main bag
Handles
Lining
Completion
Variations
Top Tip
No.1 Shell Blouse McCall’s M2818
You will Need
Assembly
No.2 Shift Dress McCall’s M6355
You will Need
Assembly
Top Tip
No.3 Pencil Skirt Butterick B5466
You will Need
Cutting Out
Assembly
No.4 Boned Bodice Butterick B5419
You will Need
Cutting Out
Assembly
Top Tip
No.5 Man’s Waistcoat Vogue V8048
You will Need
Cutting Out
Assembly
No.1 Jersey T-Shirt McCall’s M4364
You will Need
Cutting Out. Cotton jersey
Recycling an adult T-shirt
Assembly. Sewing seams
Stabilising seams and hems
No.2 Trousers & Shorts McCall’s M4364
You will Need
Assembly
Top Tip
No.3 Dungarees Kwik Sew K3948
You will Need
Assembly. Straps
Pockets with contrast top edge
No.4 Toddler Dress Butterick B5876
You will Need
Cutting Out. Interfacing
Assembly. Facings
Double patch pockets
Button loop
Top Tip
No.5 Romper Suit Kwik Sew K3983
You will Need
Cutting Out. Matching a patterned fabric
Assembly. Tucks
Curved seams
Pockets
No.6 Smocked Dress Butterick B3762
You will Need
Cutting Out
Assembly. Gathering
Embroidering
Assembling the Bodice
Glossary of Sewing Terms
My Little Black Book
Acknowledgements
About the Publisher
