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Michel Chevalier. Luxury Brand Management in Digital and Sustainable Times
Table of Contents
List of Tables
List of Illustrations
Guide
Pages
Luxury Brand Management in Digital and Sustainable Times
Introduction
Chapter 1 The Concept of Luxury
A Problematic Definition
A Fluctuating Notion
The Paradox of Contemporary Luxury
Chronicle of a Semantic Evolution
Modern Dispersion
Etymology and Transformations
The Advent of Intermediate Luxury
Classification of Existing Definitions
Perceptual Approaches
Productive Approaches
Social and Individual Aspects
The Brand and Its Manifestations
Luxury Values
The Three Scales
The Semiotic Square of the Consumption Values
True Luxury, Intermediate Luxury
Eccentric Luxury
Reasonable Luxury
Authentic Luxury
Luxury, Being and Appearing
The Square of Veracity
Five Sources of Legitimacy
New Luxury
Product and Experience Luxuries
The Vaporization of Luxury
Exclusive versus Exceptional Luxuries
Conclusion on the Notion of Luxury
Notes
Chapter 2 Specificities of the Luxury Industry
What Is So Different About the Luxury Industry?
Company Size
Sales Figures Are Difficult to Compare
Limited Number of Staff
Financial Characteristics
A Very High Break-Even
A Limited Cash Need
Time Frame
The Fashion Cycle
Turnaround Time
The Key to Success in Luxury Goods
The Need for a Strong Name
Brand Extension and Legitimacy
Identifiable Products
The Social and Cultural Environment
The Major Operators
What Is the Size of the Luxury Market?
Oligopoly or Open Market?
The Big Three Corporations
Can the Single-Brand Company Survive?
Note
Chapter 3A Major Luxury Sectors. Ready-to-Wear, Perfumes and Cosmetics, and Leather Goods
Ready-to-Wear Activities
The Fashion Business and Its Operation
Key Management Issues
Perfumes and Cosmetics
The Market
The Split between Niche Perfumes and Mass Selective Perfumes
The Financial Aspect of Perfumes and Cosmetics
The Major Operators
Key Management Issues
Organizational Structures
The Leather Goods Market
The Market
The Major Operators
Key Management Issues
Note
Chapter 3B Major Luxury Sectors. Wines and Spirits, Jewelry and Watches, and Hotels and Hospitality. Wines and Spirits
The Wines and Spirits Market
The Major Operators
Key Management Issues
Organizational Structures
The Watch and Jewelry Market
The Market
The Major Operators
Key Management Issues
Organizational Structures
The World of Hotels and Hospitality
The Major Players
Organizing for Service Excellence
Managing the Real Estate and the Business Ownership
Managing Multicriteria Customer Choices
What Can Other Luxury Businesses Learn from Hotel Management Practices?
Conclusion on the Major Luxury Sectors
Notes
Chapter 4 The Power of the Luxury Brand
The Value of a Brand
The Interbrand Methodology
Luxury Brands in the Total Brand Universe
The Luxury Brands in the Top 100
The Characteristics of the Brand
The Brand as a Contract
Brands and Time
Brands and Society
The Brand and Its Signs
Brand Names
Logos
Other Signs of Recognition
The Legal Aspects and the Defense of a Brand
Brand Protection
Fighting Counterfeit Activities
Knock-offs and Tables of Correspondence
Chinese and Korean Counterfeits
The Lenient Countries
Notes
Chapter 5 The Luxury Client
Who Is the Luxury Client?
The Rich, the Very Rich, or Everybody?
The Excursionists
The New Client
New Customer Expectations
How Much Should Luxury Goods Marketing Programs Adapt to Millennials' and HENRYs' Expectations?
Customer Attitudes by Product Category and Nationality. The Major Customer Zones
The Differences in Attitudes for Jewelry
The Different National Interest for Accessories, Ready-to-Wear, and Perfumes
The Analysis of Clients by Nationality
The Case of Mainland China
US Customers
Japanese Customers
South Korean Customers
European Customers
The Fallacy of the BRICs
Conclusion
Notes
Chapter 6 Brand Identity: Concepts and Analytical Semiotic Tools. Brand Identity
A Concept That Is Gaining Ground
A Brief History of the Emergence of the Brand Identity Notion
The Brand Hinge: Ethics and Aesthetics
The Brand Identity as a Main Strategic Component
Using the Brand Identity Hinge
Brand Ethics Analytical Process: Some Practical Clues
Jim Thompson Brand Ethics
Brand Aesthetics Analytical Process: Some Practical Clues
Jim Thompson's Brand Aesthetics
Brand Aesthetics Analytical Grid: Application at Jim Thompson
Other Ways to Get into Brand Aesthetics
The EST-ET© Diagram
Brand Identity Strategic and Operational Implications
General Considerations on the Brand Identity Concept
Single Identity/Multiple Perceptions
The Need to Evolve
From Brand Discourses to the Sum of Discourses About the Brand
Limitations of the Concept of Identity
The Relative Weakening of the Brand Identity Concept
The Consequential Emergence of Two Distinctive Brand Positioning
Other Approaches to Brand Management
Notes
Chapter 7 Additional Brand Analytical Tools
Brand Life Cycle
The Birth of a Brand
The Growth of a Brand
The Maturity of a Brand
Decline, Relaunch, and Death
Other Possible Uses of the Brand Life Cycle
The Identity Prism
The Rosewindow
The Semiotic Square
Semiotic Mapping
The Narrative Scheme
The Semionarrative Scheme
A Few Words on Semiotics
From Semiotician to Manager
Some Quality Criteria for a Semiotic Analysis
Notes
Chapter 8 Creation and Merchandising
Merchandising. The Merchandiser's Responsibilities
The Collection Plan
The Collections Calendar
Creation
Organization of the Creative Function
Creative Process
Designers and Style2
Brand Aesthetics
Relevance of Brand Aesthetics
Examples of Issues Treated with the Notion of Brand Aesthetics
Possible Tools for Managing Brand Aesthetics
Conclusion on Brand Aesthetics
Art and Brands
From Brands to Arts
From Arts to Brands
Notes
Chapter 9 Communication in Digital Times
Digital Times
A Brief History
Overall Impact of Digital Technologies
Impact on Consumers
Impact on Brands
Engaging Customers
Communication
Brand Manifestations
The Communication Chain
Communication Strategy
Specificities of Digital Communication
The Consumer Decision Journey
The Communication Plan
Key Performance Indicators (KPI)
Social Networks
Digital Identity
Advertising
Possible Organization Structures
Not Forgetting “Traditional Communication”
PR
The Product
Conclusion
Notes
Chapter 10 Managing a Global Brand
International Distribution Systems
Exclusive Sales from Paris or Milan
Subsidiaries
Local Distributors
The Joint-Venture System
Price Structures
Advertising Structures and Advertising Policies
Dealing with Online Operators
Licensing Activities
Examples of Brands Developed Exclusively Through License Deals
Sectors in Which the Majority of Brands Use Licensing Deals
Perfumes and Cosmetics
Example of a Company Specializing in License Contracts: Children Worldwide Fashion
The Process of Development Under License
The Special Case of Duty-Free Operations
The Duty-Free System
The Major Duty-Free Operators
The Negotiation
The Parallel Market: Reasons and Consequences
The Reason for Parallel Markets
Collecting Products for Parallel Markets
How to Fight Parallel Distribution
Chapter 11 Retail Management
Why Is Retailing So Important Today?
The Present Retail Situation for Luxury Brands
Distribution for Fashion and Accessories or Jewelry
Distribution for Watches or Perfumes
Basic Retail Management Concepts
A Store's Reason for Being
Store Location
Types of Stores
Economic Analysis of Store Location
Different Leasing Systems
Budget, Planning, and Control
Sales Target
Inventory Forecast
Margin Control
The Store Information System
Staffing, Training, and Evaluation. Staffing
Training
Evaluation and Motivation
The Store as a Communication Tool
Landmark Projects
The Communication Power of the Store
The Challenge of the Seamless Online, Offline Process
The First Reactions to the Development of Digital Activities for Luxury Brands
The Present Situation
The Expected Future
The Future of Luxury Retailing
Notes
Chapter 12 Sustainability and Authenticity
Sustainability
Compatibility Between Luxury and Sustainability
Indicators of Higher Sustainable Sensibility
Possible Consumer Segmentation
Greenwashing
Conclusion on Sustainability
Brand Authenticities
Overall Conclusion
Notes
Appendix A Applying Brand Identity Analytical Tools. The Case of Sasin School of Business, the Leading Thai Business School, Chulalongkorn University (Bangkok, Phuket)
Sasin Brand Ethics
Sasin Brand Aesthetics
Note
Appendix B Glossary of Digital-Related Terms*
App
CC
Cookie
Engagement rate
Facebook Ads
GAFAM
Google Ads
HTML
http
https
Influencer
Internet
Lead
Meme
MMS
Pagerank
SEO
SMS
The Web
Troll
URL
Webinar
Wiki
Note
Index
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