The New English Kitchen: Changing the Way You Shop, Cook and Eat

The New English Kitchen: Changing the Way You Shop, Cook and Eat
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Rose Prince. The New English Kitchen: Changing the Way You Shop, Cook and Eat

the new english kitchen. changing the way you shop, cook and eat. rose prince

contents

introduction

part one

1 bread and flour

the currency of bread

the giant bread machine

bread in society

how to recognise good bread

where to buy bread

organic bread and good flour

making bread at home

hands versus machine

kitchen note

the cost of bread

buying flour

other types of flour

yeast

a little bread science

how to knead bread by hand

basic yeast bread

kitchen notes

more adventures with dough

sourdough bread

soda bread

kitchen notes

savoury pan scones

kitchen note

drop scones

kitchen note

flat breads

basic flat bread

kitchen note

dry flat bread

bread salad

pizza margherita

kitchen note

other uses for pizza dough

making the most of stale bread

toast

sardines on toast

dripping toast

more good things on toast

melba toast

kitchen note

breadcrumbs

kitchen note

bread sauces for poultry and game

fried breadcrumbs with lemon

kitchen note

almond, sherry and clove sauce

traditional bread sauce

breadcrumb coatings – suspicious minds

You need three bowls:

kitchen note

breadcrumbs and garlic with pasta

kitchen note

breadcrumb, garlic and parsley butter stuffing for shellfish

kitchen note

soaked bread

breadcrumb salad

sourdough bread, wine and onion soup

kitchen note

summer pudding

kitchen note

toffee pudding

winter charlotte with rhubarb and raspberries

brioche and fig pudding

alternative flours

gram flour

gram coating for poultry, game and fish

gram and cheddar shortbreads

kitchen note

potato flour

almond and orange cake

2 store

dried foods

the fridge

the freezer

cooked store foods

food-safety rules

rice

rice economics

buying rice

to cook basmati or long grain white rice

kitchen note

how to store cooked rice

fried rice

cooked rice with coconut, lemongrass and galangal

aubergine and pumpkin seed rice

kitchen notes

kedgeree

rice, cucumber and dill salad

short grain rice

store-method risotto

fried risotto cakes

couscous, bulgar and other grains

to make a store of couscous

reheating couscous

a couscous feast

to make a store of bulgar wheat

bulgar and parsley salad for barbecued meat

lentils

to cook puy lentils

kitchen note

lentils and eggs

kitchen note

spiced green lentils with buttered spinach

braised red lentils with lime juice and fresh ewe’s milk cheese

beans

windowsill bean sprouts

butter beans marinated with shallots and watercress

kitchen note

baked chick peas, peppers and potatoes with yoghurt sauce

potatoes

organic potatoes

the price of potatoes

roast potatoes

more roast winter vegetables

leftover roast potatoes

unused potato skins

roast potato soup

mashed potato

kitchen note

potato cakes with watercress sauce

smoked trout potato cakes

bubble and squeak

kitchen note

salad potatoes

potato salad

the freezer

broad beans

frozen peas

pea soup with potatoes and bacon

frozen spinach

spinach with pine nuts

canned food

skipjack tuna

choosing tuna

tuna cakes

tuna salad with skinless tomatoes

kitchen note

other uses for tuna

canned anchovies

anchovy butter

canned tomatoes

canned tomato sauce

kitchen note

tomato juice

canned artichokes

bottled and canned sweet peppers

cured meats

herbs

herbs and english cookery

kitchen note

green sauce

herb oils

kitchen note

herb, oil and breadcrumb ‘stuffing’

year-round salad vegetables. lettuce

cucumber

cucumber sandwiches

cucumber salad with mustard

spiced braised cucumber

pickled cucumber

avocado

avocado mash with coriander and curry oil

kitchen note

watercress

watercress oil

watercress sandwiches

year-round fruit

fresh mango chutney

plantains

fried plantain

pomegranates

pomegranate syrup

kitchen notes

dried fruit

winter trifle

dried fruit meringues

lemon and orange zest

pasta with lemon

lemon syllabub

kitchen note

caramelised oranges

3 stock

the economics of stock

bought stock (stock cubes, stock powder and ready-made fresh stock)

meat stocks. bones

the real waste

the more bones the better

time to make stock

making stock from raw bones

meat stock (beef, veal, lamb, pork and ham)

kitchen note

concentrated stock

storing stock

clarifying stock

kitchen note

poultry stock

game stock

slow-cooker stock

vegetable and fish stocks. basic vegetable stock

concentrated celery and leek stock

kitchen note

shellfish stock

kitchen note

fish stock

kitchen note

using stock in cooking. making gravy

thin gravy

thickened gravy

recipes using meat stock. ham hock and bean soup

kitchen notes

noodle soup

recipes using chicken stock

vegetable broth with basil and garlic oil

smooth vegetable soup

smooth green vegetable soup

things to add to soups

a sauce for meat flavoured with mustard and white wine vinegar

kitchen note

risotto

kitchen note

various risottos

recipes using game stock. duck and celery soup

game broth with barley or wheat and parsley oil

recipes using vegetable stock

vegetable dressing

recipes using shellfish and sea fish stock. spiced soup with mushrooms

aromatic soup with saffron and aniseed

shellfish soup with rice noodles, coconut milk and chilli

kitchen notes

4 poultry

poultry highs and lows

imported meat

the ultimate cost of cheap meat

chicken utopia

you’re the one with the money – vote for what you want

where to buy naturally reared chicken

look for new-old breeds

good economics in whole birds

the price of chicken

one chicken weighing 2.5kg/51/2lb

storing chicken

a large roast free-range chicken with long, hard bones, squeaky, firm meat and skin like mature, burnished parchment

roast chicken

to carve the chicken

stuffing

to roast chicken drumsticks and wings

kitchen notes

chicken thighs

cold roast chicken. chicken sandwiches

chicken with herb mayonnaise

cold chicken with sesame sauce

poached stuffed chicken and the richest chicken soup

poached chicken with leeks, tarragon and creamy stock

kitchen note

chicken giblets

chicken livers on toast with anchovies and capers

kitchen note

braised cockerel with trotters and red wine

kitchen note

duck

where to buy duck

how to get more from a duck

duck breasts with lentils, watercress and redcurrants

kitchen note

duck legs and potatoes

roast salt duck

keeping duck fat

duck, sausages and beans

crispy duck pancakes

guinea fowl and quail

turkey

5 beef, pork and lamb

the art of cooking meat

a new revolution in eating meat

the price of meat

what good meat can do for you

one leg or loin of pork weighing 2kg/41/2lb plus extra bones

one forerib beef (four ribs) including rib bones weighing 4kg/9lb

one leg of lamb weighing 2.5kg/51/2lb

respect for meat

empowerment and a better quality of life

the welfare of the animals

the end matters

the cost of regulations

the politics of the national farmers’ union and meat

natural growth

tasting the new-old breeds

hanging and the cut

a lamb with four back legs

where to buy meat

cheap cuts

beef. breeds

good roasting cuts for beef

roast forerib of beef

the skewer test for doneness

yorkshire pudding

sauces to go with roast beef. horseradish cream

summer green sauce for beef

extra-hot mustard

dripping on toast

beef dripping sandwiches

cold beef

beef sandwiches

cold beef with lime and sesame dressing

kitchen note

cold beef with watercress and winter sauce

soup noodles with rare beef, spring onions, pak choi and coriander

braised once-roasted beef

beef and parsnip pasties

meat and potato pie

italian meat sauce

pork

every bit of the pig

roast loin of pork

kitchen note

roast leg of pork

roast pork belly

sauces for roast pork. apple sauce

apple and onion sauce

cornichon, egg and herb sauce

spare crackling

crackling with salad leaves and semi-soft-boiled eggs

kitchen note

lamb

roast lamb

cold lamb. shepherd’s pie

pilaff with cold meat

lamb and butternut squash hash with cumin and coriander

kitchen note

cheaper cuts of beef, pork and lamb

turning cheap cuts into fast food

kitchen note

lamb in a pan with peas, mint and butter

fried lamb escalopes with flageolet beans

beef with garlic greens

pork with wood-roasted peppers and hot potato salad

burgers and patties

burgers

beef burgers

lamb patties

slow, slow cooking

braised lamb with potatoes and parsley oil

kitchen notes

simmered salt silverside and tongue with watercress dumplings

caper and mustard sauce for boiled meat

sliced cold silverside and tongue

ribs and rib trim

braised beef

various braises

hot sugared ham

boiling the ham

glazing the ham

cumberland sauce

kitchen note

ham broth

a ham broth for autumn

sausages

braised sausages with cider and hot potato salad

black pudding, dry-cured sausage and bacon with leaves

kitchen note

barbecues

offal

kidneys

lamb kidneys

potatoes stuffed with lamb’s kidneys and bacon

lamb sweetbreads

sautéed sweetbreads

brawn

economics of brawn

pig’s brains

6 game and wild meat

wild meat emotion

the sensual case for eating game

reasons to eat game

the economics of game

a brace of (two) whole oven-ready pheasants weighing 750g/21/2lb each

one 5kg haunch of wild fallow deer, with about 3.75kg/7lb 13oz of meat

what is game?

farmed game

how game birds are reared

game shooting controversy

the true value of game

more good things about game

is game a clean meat?

when to buy game

where to buy game

road kill – the rules

fear of cooking game and wild meat – and the rules for doing it right

flavours of wild meat

shot

preparing game

storing game

recipes for wild meat: venison, hare and rabbit. venison

roast venison

kitchen note

hot venison and mushroom pie

kitchen note

venison sautéed with spring cabbage

braised venison with wild mushrooms and real ale

venison shanks with white wine and tomatoes

kitchen note

venison sauce for pasta

wild rabbit

down to earth

using farmed rabbit

roast wild rabbit with figs and vinegar

rabbit with lemon

rabbit confit

kitchen note

wild rabbit for curry

cold wild rabbit and cucumber salad

potted wild rabbit

kitchen note

hare ragu

wild game birds

wood pigeon breasts with watercress, cobnuts and toasted sourdough bread

grouse

roast grouse

kitchen note

braised beef scented with grouse

grouse sandwiches

cold grouse with runner beans

pheasant

roast pheasant

cold pheasant

pheasant soup

pheasant breasts, or fillets

breadcrumbed pheasant

pheasant with spring greens, ginger, sherry and soy

partridge

roast partridge

partridge and freshwater crayfish with rice

mallard (wild duck)

roast mallard

cold duck with mizuna, glass vegetables, lime and sesame

kitchen note

part two

7 fish and shellfish

positive shopping

which fish?

new fish

the great white fish disaster

management

plenty more fish

cheap cod is expensive

the good news

fish to eat less of

finding fish to eat more of

river clean-up

british beach shellfish

farmed fish and shellfish

farming in tanks

ranching

global fish farming

good shellfish husbandry

the right farmed fish?

how to tell if fish is fresh

where to buy fish

ways to cook fish. grilling fish over embers

frying fish

poaching fish

white fish pie

any-fish stew

stock

whole sea fish

the fish and shellfish to eat: an A to Z. brill

baked brill with butter and shallot sauce

kitchen note

cockles

how to clean cockles

steamed cockles

linguine with steamed cockles and red chilli

brown crab

how to cook and pick a brown crab

crab pasties

spider crab

how to cook and pick a spider crab

spider crab salad

kitchen note

spider crab and prawn cakes with red chilli dressing

grilled spider crabs with sherry and cream

flatfish

fried sole

kitchen note

hoki

paper-baked hoki with potatoes and tomato dressing

john dory

john dory with fennel and sorrel sauce

kippers

kipper butter

langoustines

north atlantic langoustines with rosemary

broiled north atlantic langoustines with mayonnaise

southwest mackerel

mackerel with rhubarb and chilli

kitchen note

red mullet

mussels

how to clean mussels

steamed mussels with wine and shallots

more steamed mussels

octopus

preparing octopus

octopus with lemon, oil and oregano

kitchen note

a store of octopus

braised octopus with tomatoes

pollack

fried white fish with parsley and caper butter

kitchen note

pollack, spring onion and cream soup

kitchen note

north atlantic prawns

a pint of prawns with garlic and cayenne butter

spiced prawns on fried flat bread

kitchen note

warm-water prawns

salmon. farming rights and wrongs

where to buy salmon

organic feed for farmed trout and salmon

attitude to salmon

bay shrimps

potted shrimps or prawns

squid

preparing squid

warm salad of squid with potatoes and shallots

crispy squid with salt and pink peppercorns

trout

home-cured sea trout

kitchen note

trout pâté

sea trout and lentils

kitchen note

whelks

whelks with broken pasta, garlic butter and unwanted lettuce

winkles

8 gluts of fruit and vegetables

what one hour of cooking gives you

tomato economics

the right price

producing the produce

where on earth

unfair trade

supply chains

solutions

buy british in season

where to buy glut food

wild foods

be a food pirate

the season tells you what to eat

winter. forced rhubarb

candlelit harvests

beef braised with rhubarb

rhubarb fool

purple sprouting broccoli

warm purple sprouting broccoli with lemon and oil

more ways with purple sprouting broccoli

sprout tops

sprout tops with cream, lemon and rosemary

seville and blood oranges

blood orange and shallot salad

blood orange water ice

kitchen note

paper-baked fish with seville orange

seville orange pudding

spring. jersey royal and cornish potatoes

cooking new potatoes

kitchen note

stinging nettles

wild garlic

asparagus

cooking asparagus

elderflower

elderflower cordial

summer. garden peas and beans

pea stock

peas and beans with rice

pea soup

french beans with shallots and olive oil

great garden salad

kitchen note

samphire

indian runner beans

soft orchard fruit and berries

15-minute jam

kitchen note

pickled fruit

kitchen note

pickled gooseberries

mustard-pickled fruit

corn on the cob

using surplus corn

kitchen note

corn fritters

overripe tomatoes

tomato sauce

kitchen note

tomato sauce with herbs

tomato soup

curry

kitchen note

tomato and grain soup

giant puffballs

autumn. apples

stewed apple

how to use apple sauce

apple snow

windfalls

apple jelly

kitchen note

blackberries

sloes

quince

quince cheese

kitchen note

quince frangipane tart

the squash family

roasting squash and pumpkin

9 eggs

hens

the cost of half a dozen eggs

cheap eggs are expensive

good eggs?

the eggs to buy

the future of hens – and eggs

alternative eggs

storing eggs

plain boiled eggs

cooking times for medium-sized hen’s eggs

soft-boiled eggs with purple sprouting broccoli

kitchen note

the boiled egg store

open egg sandwiches

cold boiled eggs with herb mayonnaise

kitchen note

semi-soft-boiled eggs and lettuce hearts

kitchen note

boiled eggs mimosa with summer vegetables

roasted pepper mimosa on baked bread

poached eggs

kitchen note

baked eggs

baked eggs and bacon

baked eggs with sweet red peppers and tomatoes

cooled scrambled egg on thin toasts

kitchen note

soufflé

a few things you should know about making soufflé

cheese soufflé

egg sauces

mayonnaise

kitchen notes

garlic mayonnaise

saffron and chilli mayonnaise

kitchen note

an egg and herb sauce for summer vegetables

hollandaise sauce

kitchen notes

duck egg omelette with spring vegetables

pancakes

pancakes

things to put inside pancakes. cauliflower and fresh goat’s cheese

chicken, broad bean and tarragon

pancakes for pudding

puddings made with eggs. custard

kitchen note

making ice cream

baked pear custard

kitchen note

meringues

easy meringue

kitchen note

lemon curd

10 dairy

animal welfare

milk across the pond

raw milk

renaissance cheese

butter

cream

yoghurt

alternative milks

where to buy milk and other dairy foods

veal

cooking with milk

watercress soup

chicken cooked in cardamom and milk

pork cooked in milk, oregano and lemon

pan-cooked rice pudding with caramel, figs and pistachios

kitchen notes

milk ice cream

kitchen note

cooking with yoghurt

yoghurt marinade for meat

kitchen note

yoghurt sauce for grills and pilaffs

cheese

buying british cheeses

local cheese

cheese shops

looking after cheese

british versus continental cheese

stars among british and irish cheeses

british blue cheese

unique british cheeses

ways to eat cheese

boiled dark ginger cake

kitchen notes

recipes for fresh cheeses

raw fresh cheese. cheese salads

cottage cheese

blue cheese

blue cheese, pears and cobnuts

cooked fresh cheese

cheese pastries

fresh ewe’s milk cheese with tomato and chilli

easy fresh cheesecake

semi-soft and hard cheeses cheese and toast

toasted cheese and ham sandwiches

toasted flat breads with cheese

cheddar tart

dry or overripe cheese

cheddar crisps

hot soft cheese with mushrooms and truffle oil

kitchen note

veal

spotting the imports

organic veal

rosé veal

the veal to buy

cold loin of veal with watercress and anchovy sauce

escalopes

breadcrumbed escalopes

veal escalopes with tarragon and cream

veal meatballs

kitchen note

veal kidneys

calf’s liver

shopping guide. 1: bread and flour

specialist breads

2: store. avocado oil

british bacon, sausages and other dry-cured meat

canned wood-roasted peppers

english-grown herb plants and seeds

fresh english-grown chilli peppers

frozen organic peas

hot and cold smoked wild salmon

potatoes – unusual british old and new varieties

rice cooker

sustainably caught anchovies/sardines/tuna

3: stock

organic stock, fresh and frozen

naturally fermented soy sauce

4: poultry. anodised roasting tins

chickens

Free-range ducks

Free-range turkey – all year round/out of season

Free-range turkey – seasonal

sausages for braising

5: beef, pork and lamb

butchers

charcoal

lamb boxes

meat – all types

6: wild meat and game. canned duck or goose fat

Freshwater crayfish

game birds, venison, rabbit, hare

red deer shanks/osso buco

7: fish and shellfish

freshly picked unpasteurised crabmeat

pilchards/sardines

farmed salmon – conventional

salmon – organic

salmon – wild

smoked pollack

sustainably caught, fresh tuna

sustainably farmed shellfish

sustainably farmed tiger prawns

8: gluts of fruit and vegetables

jersey royals

multi-coloured sugar crystals

nationwide and local vegetable box schemes

9: eggs. canned wood-roasted peppers

columbian blacktail eggs

cotswold legbar eggs

Free-range/organic speciality eggs – duck, goose, quail and others

gulls’ eggs – when in season (april to may)

10: dairy. artisan-made british, irish and european cheeses

butter and cream

buttermilk

milk co-operatives

non-homogenised milk

organic milk or raw-milk producers

pasteurised buffalo milk

index

acknowledgements

If you enjoyed The New English Kitchen, check out these other great Rose Prince titles

about the author

praise

copyright

about the publisher

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.....

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan and add the onions, thyme and some salt. Cook over a very, very low heat for about 45 minutes, until pale gold, soft and sweet tasting. Add the wine, deglazing or scraping any cooking bits from the base of the pan with a wooden spatula. Add the beef stock and bring to simmering point. Taste for seasoning and add salt if necessary. Grind over a little black pepper.

.....

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