The New English Kitchen: Changing the Way You Shop, Cook and Eat
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Rose Prince. The New English Kitchen: Changing the Way You Shop, Cook and Eat
the new english kitchen. changing the way you shop, cook and eat. rose prince
contents
introduction
part one
1 bread and flour
the currency of bread
the giant bread machine
bread in society
how to recognise good bread
where to buy bread
organic bread and good flour
making bread at home
hands versus machine
kitchen note
the cost of bread
buying flour
other types of flour
yeast
a little bread science
how to knead bread by hand
basic yeast bread
kitchen notes
more adventures with dough
sourdough bread
soda bread
kitchen notes
savoury pan scones
kitchen note
drop scones
kitchen note
flat breads
basic flat bread
kitchen note
dry flat bread
bread salad
pizza margherita
kitchen note
other uses for pizza dough
making the most of stale bread
toast
sardines on toast
dripping toast
more good things on toast
melba toast
kitchen note
breadcrumbs
kitchen note
bread sauces for poultry and game
fried breadcrumbs with lemon
kitchen note
almond, sherry and clove sauce
traditional bread sauce
breadcrumb coatings – suspicious minds
You need three bowls:
kitchen note
breadcrumbs and garlic with pasta
kitchen note
breadcrumb, garlic and parsley butter stuffing for shellfish
kitchen note
soaked bread
breadcrumb salad
sourdough bread, wine and onion soup
kitchen note
summer pudding
kitchen note
toffee pudding
winter charlotte with rhubarb and raspberries
brioche and fig pudding
alternative flours
gram flour
gram coating for poultry, game and fish
gram and cheddar shortbreads
kitchen note
potato flour
almond and orange cake
2 store
dried foods
the fridge
the freezer
cooked store foods
food-safety rules
rice
rice economics
buying rice
to cook basmati or long grain white rice
kitchen note
how to store cooked rice
fried rice
cooked rice with coconut, lemongrass and galangal
aubergine and pumpkin seed rice
kitchen notes
kedgeree
rice, cucumber and dill salad
short grain rice
store-method risotto
fried risotto cakes
couscous, bulgar and other grains
to make a store of couscous
reheating couscous
a couscous feast
to make a store of bulgar wheat
bulgar and parsley salad for barbecued meat
lentils
to cook puy lentils
kitchen note
lentils and eggs
kitchen note
spiced green lentils with buttered spinach
braised red lentils with lime juice and fresh ewe’s milk cheese
beans
windowsill bean sprouts
butter beans marinated with shallots and watercress
kitchen note
baked chick peas, peppers and potatoes with yoghurt sauce
potatoes
organic potatoes
the price of potatoes
roast potatoes
more roast winter vegetables
leftover roast potatoes
unused potato skins
roast potato soup
mashed potato
kitchen note
potato cakes with watercress sauce
smoked trout potato cakes
bubble and squeak
kitchen note
salad potatoes
potato salad
the freezer
broad beans
frozen peas
pea soup with potatoes and bacon
frozen spinach
spinach with pine nuts
canned food
skipjack tuna
choosing tuna
tuna cakes
tuna salad with skinless tomatoes
kitchen note
other uses for tuna
canned anchovies
anchovy butter
canned tomatoes
canned tomato sauce
kitchen note
tomato juice
canned artichokes
bottled and canned sweet peppers
cured meats
herbs
herbs and english cookery
kitchen note
green sauce
herb oils
kitchen note
herb, oil and breadcrumb ‘stuffing’
year-round salad vegetables. lettuce
cucumber
cucumber sandwiches
cucumber salad with mustard
spiced braised cucumber
pickled cucumber
avocado
avocado mash with coriander and curry oil
kitchen note
watercress
watercress oil
watercress sandwiches
year-round fruit
fresh mango chutney
plantains
fried plantain
pomegranates
pomegranate syrup
kitchen notes
dried fruit
winter trifle
dried fruit meringues
lemon and orange zest
pasta with lemon
lemon syllabub
kitchen note
caramelised oranges
3 stock
the economics of stock
bought stock (stock cubes, stock powder and ready-made fresh stock)
meat stocks. bones
the real waste
the more bones the better
time to make stock
making stock from raw bones
meat stock (beef, veal, lamb, pork and ham)
kitchen note
concentrated stock
storing stock
clarifying stock
kitchen note
poultry stock
game stock
slow-cooker stock
vegetable and fish stocks. basic vegetable stock
concentrated celery and leek stock
kitchen note
shellfish stock
kitchen note
fish stock
kitchen note
using stock in cooking. making gravy
thin gravy
thickened gravy
recipes using meat stock. ham hock and bean soup
kitchen notes
noodle soup
recipes using chicken stock
vegetable broth with basil and garlic oil
smooth vegetable soup
smooth green vegetable soup
things to add to soups
a sauce for meat flavoured with mustard and white wine vinegar
kitchen note
risotto
kitchen note
various risottos
recipes using game stock. duck and celery soup
game broth with barley or wheat and parsley oil
recipes using vegetable stock
vegetable dressing
recipes using shellfish and sea fish stock. spiced soup with mushrooms
aromatic soup with saffron and aniseed
shellfish soup with rice noodles, coconut milk and chilli
kitchen notes
4 poultry
poultry highs and lows
imported meat
the ultimate cost of cheap meat
chicken utopia
you’re the one with the money – vote for what you want
where to buy naturally reared chicken
look for new-old breeds
good economics in whole birds
the price of chicken
one chicken weighing 2.5kg/51/2lb
storing chicken
a large roast free-range chicken with long, hard bones, squeaky, firm meat and skin like mature, burnished parchment
roast chicken
to carve the chicken
stuffing
to roast chicken drumsticks and wings
kitchen notes
chicken thighs
cold roast chicken. chicken sandwiches
chicken with herb mayonnaise
cold chicken with sesame sauce
poached stuffed chicken and the richest chicken soup
poached chicken with leeks, tarragon and creamy stock
kitchen note
chicken giblets
chicken livers on toast with anchovies and capers
kitchen note
braised cockerel with trotters and red wine
kitchen note
duck
where to buy duck
how to get more from a duck
duck breasts with lentils, watercress and redcurrants
kitchen note
duck legs and potatoes
roast salt duck
keeping duck fat
duck, sausages and beans
crispy duck pancakes
guinea fowl and quail
turkey
5 beef, pork and lamb
the art of cooking meat
a new revolution in eating meat
the price of meat
what good meat can do for you
one leg or loin of pork weighing 2kg/41/2lb plus extra bones
one forerib beef (four ribs) including rib bones weighing 4kg/9lb
one leg of lamb weighing 2.5kg/51/2lb
respect for meat
empowerment and a better quality of life
the welfare of the animals
the end matters
the cost of regulations
the politics of the national farmers’ union and meat
natural growth
tasting the new-old breeds
hanging and the cut
a lamb with four back legs
where to buy meat
cheap cuts
beef. breeds
good roasting cuts for beef
roast forerib of beef
the skewer test for doneness
yorkshire pudding
sauces to go with roast beef. horseradish cream
summer green sauce for beef
extra-hot mustard
dripping on toast
beef dripping sandwiches
cold beef
beef sandwiches
cold beef with lime and sesame dressing
kitchen note
cold beef with watercress and winter sauce
soup noodles with rare beef, spring onions, pak choi and coriander
braised once-roasted beef
beef and parsnip pasties
meat and potato pie
italian meat sauce
pork
every bit of the pig
roast loin of pork
kitchen note
roast leg of pork
roast pork belly
sauces for roast pork. apple sauce
apple and onion sauce
cornichon, egg and herb sauce
spare crackling
crackling with salad leaves and semi-soft-boiled eggs
kitchen note
lamb
roast lamb
cold lamb. shepherd’s pie
pilaff with cold meat
lamb and butternut squash hash with cumin and coriander
kitchen note
cheaper cuts of beef, pork and lamb
turning cheap cuts into fast food
kitchen note
lamb in a pan with peas, mint and butter
fried lamb escalopes with flageolet beans
beef with garlic greens
pork with wood-roasted peppers and hot potato salad
burgers and patties
burgers
beef burgers
lamb patties
slow, slow cooking
braised lamb with potatoes and parsley oil
kitchen notes
simmered salt silverside and tongue with watercress dumplings
caper and mustard sauce for boiled meat
sliced cold silverside and tongue
ribs and rib trim
braised beef
various braises
hot sugared ham
boiling the ham
glazing the ham
cumberland sauce
kitchen note
ham broth
a ham broth for autumn
sausages
braised sausages with cider and hot potato salad
black pudding, dry-cured sausage and bacon with leaves
kitchen note
barbecues
offal
kidneys
lamb kidneys
potatoes stuffed with lamb’s kidneys and bacon
lamb sweetbreads
sautéed sweetbreads
brawn
economics of brawn
pig’s brains
6 game and wild meat
wild meat emotion
the sensual case for eating game
reasons to eat game
the economics of game
a brace of (two) whole oven-ready pheasants weighing 750g/21/2lb each
one 5kg haunch of wild fallow deer, with about 3.75kg/7lb 13oz of meat
what is game?
farmed game
how game birds are reared
game shooting controversy
the true value of game
more good things about game
is game a clean meat?
when to buy game
where to buy game
road kill – the rules
fear of cooking game and wild meat – and the rules for doing it right
flavours of wild meat
shot
preparing game
storing game
recipes for wild meat: venison, hare and rabbit. venison
roast venison
kitchen note
hot venison and mushroom pie
kitchen note
venison sautéed with spring cabbage
braised venison with wild mushrooms and real ale
venison shanks with white wine and tomatoes
kitchen note
venison sauce for pasta
wild rabbit
down to earth
using farmed rabbit
roast wild rabbit with figs and vinegar
rabbit with lemon
rabbit confit
kitchen note
wild rabbit for curry
cold wild rabbit and cucumber salad
potted wild rabbit
kitchen note
hare ragu
wild game birds
wood pigeon breasts with watercress, cobnuts and toasted sourdough bread
grouse
roast grouse
kitchen note
braised beef scented with grouse
grouse sandwiches
cold grouse with runner beans
pheasant
roast pheasant
cold pheasant
pheasant soup
pheasant breasts, or fillets
breadcrumbed pheasant
pheasant with spring greens, ginger, sherry and soy
partridge
roast partridge
partridge and freshwater crayfish with rice
mallard (wild duck)
roast mallard
cold duck with mizuna, glass vegetables, lime and sesame
kitchen note
part two
7 fish and shellfish
positive shopping
which fish?
new fish
the great white fish disaster
management
plenty more fish
cheap cod is expensive
the good news
fish to eat less of
finding fish to eat more of
river clean-up
british beach shellfish
farmed fish and shellfish
farming in tanks
ranching
global fish farming
good shellfish husbandry
the right farmed fish?
how to tell if fish is fresh
where to buy fish
ways to cook fish. grilling fish over embers
frying fish
poaching fish
white fish pie
any-fish stew
stock
whole sea fish
the fish and shellfish to eat: an A to Z. brill
baked brill with butter and shallot sauce
kitchen note
cockles
how to clean cockles
steamed cockles
linguine with steamed cockles and red chilli
brown crab
how to cook and pick a brown crab
crab pasties
spider crab
how to cook and pick a spider crab
spider crab salad
kitchen note
spider crab and prawn cakes with red chilli dressing
grilled spider crabs with sherry and cream
flatfish
fried sole
kitchen note
hoki
paper-baked hoki with potatoes and tomato dressing
john dory
john dory with fennel and sorrel sauce
kippers
kipper butter
langoustines
north atlantic langoustines with rosemary
broiled north atlantic langoustines with mayonnaise
southwest mackerel
mackerel with rhubarb and chilli
kitchen note
red mullet
mussels
how to clean mussels
steamed mussels with wine and shallots
more steamed mussels
octopus
preparing octopus
octopus with lemon, oil and oregano
kitchen note
a store of octopus
braised octopus with tomatoes
pollack
fried white fish with parsley and caper butter
kitchen note
pollack, spring onion and cream soup
kitchen note
north atlantic prawns
a pint of prawns with garlic and cayenne butter
spiced prawns on fried flat bread
kitchen note
warm-water prawns
salmon. farming rights and wrongs
where to buy salmon
organic feed for farmed trout and salmon
attitude to salmon
bay shrimps
potted shrimps or prawns
squid
preparing squid
warm salad of squid with potatoes and shallots
crispy squid with salt and pink peppercorns
trout
home-cured sea trout
kitchen note
trout pâté
sea trout and lentils
kitchen note
whelks
whelks with broken pasta, garlic butter and unwanted lettuce
winkles
8 gluts of fruit and vegetables
what one hour of cooking gives you
tomato economics
the right price
producing the produce
where on earth
unfair trade
supply chains
solutions
buy british in season
where to buy glut food
wild foods
be a food pirate
the season tells you what to eat
winter. forced rhubarb
candlelit harvests
beef braised with rhubarb
rhubarb fool
purple sprouting broccoli
warm purple sprouting broccoli with lemon and oil
more ways with purple sprouting broccoli
sprout tops
sprout tops with cream, lemon and rosemary
seville and blood oranges
blood orange and shallot salad
blood orange water ice
kitchen note
paper-baked fish with seville orange
seville orange pudding
spring. jersey royal and cornish potatoes
cooking new potatoes
kitchen note
stinging nettles
wild garlic
asparagus
cooking asparagus
elderflower
elderflower cordial
summer. garden peas and beans
pea stock
peas and beans with rice
pea soup
french beans with shallots and olive oil
great garden salad
kitchen note
samphire
indian runner beans
soft orchard fruit and berries
15-minute jam
kitchen note
pickled fruit
kitchen note
pickled gooseberries
mustard-pickled fruit
corn on the cob
using surplus corn
kitchen note
corn fritters
overripe tomatoes
tomato sauce
kitchen note
tomato sauce with herbs
tomato soup
curry
kitchen note
tomato and grain soup
giant puffballs
autumn. apples
stewed apple
how to use apple sauce
apple snow
windfalls
apple jelly
kitchen note
blackberries
sloes
quince
quince cheese
kitchen note
quince frangipane tart
the squash family
roasting squash and pumpkin
9 eggs
hens
the cost of half a dozen eggs
cheap eggs are expensive
good eggs?
the eggs to buy
the future of hens – and eggs
alternative eggs
storing eggs
plain boiled eggs
cooking times for medium-sized hen’s eggs
soft-boiled eggs with purple sprouting broccoli
kitchen note
the boiled egg store
open egg sandwiches
cold boiled eggs with herb mayonnaise
kitchen note
semi-soft-boiled eggs and lettuce hearts
kitchen note
boiled eggs mimosa with summer vegetables
roasted pepper mimosa on baked bread
poached eggs
kitchen note
baked eggs
baked eggs and bacon
baked eggs with sweet red peppers and tomatoes
cooled scrambled egg on thin toasts
kitchen note
soufflé
a few things you should know about making soufflé
cheese soufflé
egg sauces
mayonnaise
kitchen notes
garlic mayonnaise
saffron and chilli mayonnaise
kitchen note
an egg and herb sauce for summer vegetables
hollandaise sauce
kitchen notes
duck egg omelette with spring vegetables
pancakes
pancakes
things to put inside pancakes. cauliflower and fresh goat’s cheese
chicken, broad bean and tarragon
pancakes for pudding
puddings made with eggs. custard
kitchen note
making ice cream
baked pear custard
kitchen note
meringues
easy meringue
kitchen note
lemon curd
10 dairy
animal welfare
milk across the pond
raw milk
renaissance cheese
butter
cream
yoghurt
alternative milks
where to buy milk and other dairy foods
veal
cooking with milk
watercress soup
chicken cooked in cardamom and milk
pork cooked in milk, oregano and lemon
pan-cooked rice pudding with caramel, figs and pistachios
kitchen notes
milk ice cream
kitchen note
cooking with yoghurt
yoghurt marinade for meat
kitchen note
yoghurt sauce for grills and pilaffs
cheese
buying british cheeses
local cheese
cheese shops
looking after cheese
british versus continental cheese
stars among british and irish cheeses
british blue cheese
unique british cheeses
ways to eat cheese
boiled dark ginger cake
kitchen notes
recipes for fresh cheeses
raw fresh cheese. cheese salads
cottage cheese
blue cheese
blue cheese, pears and cobnuts
cooked fresh cheese
cheese pastries
fresh ewe’s milk cheese with tomato and chilli
easy fresh cheesecake
semi-soft and hard cheeses cheese and toast
toasted cheese and ham sandwiches
toasted flat breads with cheese
cheddar tart
dry or overripe cheese
cheddar crisps
hot soft cheese with mushrooms and truffle oil
kitchen note
veal
spotting the imports
organic veal
rosé veal
the veal to buy
cold loin of veal with watercress and anchovy sauce
escalopes
breadcrumbed escalopes
veal escalopes with tarragon and cream
veal meatballs
kitchen note
veal kidneys
calf’s liver
shopping guide. 1: bread and flour
specialist breads
2: store. avocado oil
british bacon, sausages and other dry-cured meat
canned wood-roasted peppers
english-grown herb plants and seeds
fresh english-grown chilli peppers
frozen organic peas
hot and cold smoked wild salmon
potatoes – unusual british old and new varieties
rice cooker
sustainably caught anchovies/sardines/tuna
3: stock
organic stock, fresh and frozen
naturally fermented soy sauce
4: poultry. anodised roasting tins
chickens
Free-range ducks
Free-range turkey – all year round/out of season
Free-range turkey – seasonal
sausages for braising
5: beef, pork and lamb
butchers
charcoal
lamb boxes
meat – all types
6: wild meat and game. canned duck or goose fat
Freshwater crayfish
game birds, venison, rabbit, hare
red deer shanks/osso buco
7: fish and shellfish
freshly picked unpasteurised crabmeat
pilchards/sardines
farmed salmon – conventional
salmon – organic
salmon – wild
smoked pollack
sustainably caught, fresh tuna
sustainably farmed shellfish
sustainably farmed tiger prawns
8: gluts of fruit and vegetables
jersey royals
multi-coloured sugar crystals
nationwide and local vegetable box schemes
9: eggs. canned wood-roasted peppers
columbian blacktail eggs
cotswold legbar eggs
Free-range/organic speciality eggs – duck, goose, quail and others
gulls’ eggs – when in season (april to may)
10: dairy. artisan-made british, irish and european cheeses
butter and cream
buttermilk
milk co-operatives
non-homogenised milk
organic milk or raw-milk producers
pasteurised buffalo milk
index
acknowledgements
If you enjoyed The New English Kitchen, check out these other great Rose Prince titles
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salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan and add the onions, thyme and some salt. Cook over a very, very low heat for about 45 minutes, until pale gold, soft and sweet tasting. Add the wine, deglazing or scraping any cooking bits from the base of the pan with a wooden spatula. Add the beef stock and bring to simmering point. Taste for seasoning and add salt if necessary. Grind over a little black pepper.
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