Livingstone’s Tribe: A Journey From Zanzibar to the Cape

Livingstone’s Tribe: A Journey From Zanzibar to the Cape
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An extraordinary, passionate and personal journey into Africa’s past. ‘The most enthralling account out of Africa for years.’ Daily Mail.‘“Livingstone’s Tribe” is excellent…Taylor is an intelligent and stimulating companion.’ Financial Times‘At the book’s heart is a riveting examination of Livingstone’s tribe…the whites of post-independence Africa.’ Independent on Sunday‘Taylor’s expedition into the interior of the continent’s colonial past has got everything that such a book should have.’ Guardian‘Stephen Taylor, a third-generation émigré of British descent, finds a melancholy collection of white misfits and failures…as well as a heroic, dwindling clutch of missionaries still holding the line. The catalogue of theft, corruption, murder and superstition that Taylor chronicles makes appalling, fascinating reading. Yet Taylor is no Colonel Blimp, rather an anti-apartheid liberal who fled the old South Africa and welcomed independence for Mugabe’s Zimbabwe.’ Daily Mail‘Sights and travel experiences are vividly described and people both from Livingstone’s and from the other tribes are handled particularly well.’ Sunday Times

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Stephen Taylor. Livingstone’s Tribe: A Journey From Zanzibar to the Cape

Livingstone’s Tribe

STEPHEN TAYLOR

Copyright

Dedication

Contents

Preface

PART ONE GOING OUT

1. The Island

2. The Coast

3. The Inland Sea

4. The Nyanza

5. The Enclave

6. The Hills

7. The River

8. The Mountains

9. The Valley

10. The Plains

11. The Steppe

PART TWO COMING BACK

12. The Lake

13. The Mission

14. The Escarpment

15. The Plateau

16. The Ridge

17. The Kraal

18. The Reef

19. The Bay

Glossary

Bibliography

Index

Acknowledgements

About the Author

About the Publisher

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A Journey from Zanzibar to the Cape

Title Page

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I dismissed these melancholy thoughts. After all, the fact that the colony had dispersed indicated that Caroline and her ladies had succeeded in equipping the slaves’ descendants for reintegration into the world. That, surely, was no small legacy. In fact, it was only later, when I came across the accounts by Steere’s successor, Frank Weston, that the full extent of Mbweni’s failure became apparent.

Weston arrived in 1908, a very different character from his predecessor. Where Steere was imperious, Weston was diffident. While Steere offered authoritarian leadership, Weston sought to involve Africans in decision-making. It was not long before old hands, and most notably Caroline, were comparing the new bishop unfavourably with Steere. The truth is that Weston was an unusually far-sighted and astute man and had quickly comprehended Mbweni’s real problem. The place looked charming with its well-kept roads, coconut plantations and neat houses; but the forcefulness of the mission leadership, far from equipping its dependants to live beyond its boundaries, had institutionalised them. Left to their own devices, they lacked initiative and motivation. Moreover, proselytising had made little impact. Far from being Christians, most of Mbweni’s inhabitants had reverted to the practice of witchcraft.

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