"Not only did Hornbein play a crucial role in one of the most extraordinary accomplishments in the history of mountaineering, his account of the feat is one of the finest things ever written about this peculiar, hazardous, and uncommonly engaging pursuit." —Jon Krakauer * Special anniversary edition to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest via the West Ridge * The West Ridge remains the least attempted and most deadly of recognized routes on Everest * In 2012 major media covered two failed expeditions on the West Ridge; both teams are planning to try again in 2013 In 1963, Jim Whittaker became the first American to summit Everest via the South Col route. Roughly two weeks after Whittaker's achievement, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, fellow American mountaineers on the same expedition, became the first climbers ever to summit the world's highest peak via the dangerous and forbidding West Ridge—a route on which only a handful of climbers have since succeeded. This special 50th anniversary edition reintroduces the adventure in a larger format with full-color photographs by members of the expedition, including leader Norman G. Dyhrenfurth and team doctor Jim Lester. In addition to a new foreword by Jon Krakauer, this volume also features a new preface by Hornbein along with a series of prefaces he wrote for earlier editions, including the original from 1965, and a map by Dee Molenaar. Updated bios of all the American Mount Everest Expedition team members, written by climber Broughton Coburn, are now accompanied by contemporary portraits from the expedition.
Оглавление
Thomas F. Hornbein. Everest
EVEREST
CONTENTS
FOREWORD
ONE LAST PREFACE
PREFACES PAST. PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION
PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION
INTRODUCTION
THE 1963 AMERICAN MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION TEAM
ONE BEGINNINGS
TWO GESTATION
THREE WILDERNESS
FOUR BOULDERING
FIVE AT PUIJAN
SIX THYANGBOCHE
SEVEN JAKE
EIGHT ICEFALL
NINERECONNAISSANCE
TEN THE LOST WEEKEND
ELEVEN OUR TURN
TWELVE A BLUSTEROUS DAY
THIRTEEN SEVERING THE CORD
FOURTEEN PROMISES TO KEEP …
FIFTEEN … AND MILES TO GO …
SIXTEEN … BEFORE I SLEEP
IN MEMORY OF JOHN E. BREITENBACH, AMERICAN MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1963
EXPEDITION MEMBERS FIFTY YEARS LATER
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
SOURCES
Отрывок из книги
—TONI HAGEN
THOMAS F. HORNBEIN
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Adventures, though mellower, continue—on these solitary jaunts behind our home, on hikes and climbs and skis. I am blessed with nurturing and patient young companions who slow to my pace and bring me back alive, glowing. There’s Jim Detterline, once a Longs Peak ranger, who in 1995 introduced me to the spirituality of the vertical on Longs Peak’s Diamond. The following year we returned to fulfill a promise to Clerin “Zumie” Zumwalt, an effervescent guide on Longs in the early 1930s, to leave a bit of his ashes atop the tiny spire that bears his name. For me it was a return forty-five years after three of us made the first ascent of Zumie’s Thumb and also a lesson in how modern rock-climbing shoes counter the process of aging.
On the forty-eighth anniversary of Willi’s and my Everest summit day, I experienced the mystical grandeur of Wyoming’s Devils Tower, struggling up one of its columns while Jon Krakauer bombarded me from above with encouragement. The following year, as part of a protracted eightieth birthday celebration, Harry Kent, Chris Reveley, and Mark Donahue were my companions on a climb up the Keyhole Ridge on Longs, a scenic and joyful route that had somehow escaped my notice in younger years.
