Читать книгу Pennsylvania Dutch Cooking - The Original Classic Edition - Unknown Unknown - Страница 1
ОглавлениеKissin wears out ... cookin' don't
Jacob's at the table and half et already
PROVEN RECIPES FOR TRADITIONAL PENNSYLVANIA Dutch FOODS
PENNSYLVANIA Dutch COOKERY
IN 1683 the Plain Sects began to arrive in William Penn's Colony seeking a land of peace and plenty. They were a mixed people; Moravians from Bohemia and Moravia, Mennonites from Switzerland and Holland, the Amish, the Dunkards, the Schwenkfelds,
and the French Huguenots. After the lean years of clearing the land and developing their farms they established the peace and plenty they sought. These German-speaking people were originally called the Pennsylvania Deutsch but time and custom have caused them to be known to us as the Pennsylvania Dutch.
The Pennsylvania Dutch are a hard working people and as they say, "Them that works hard, eats hearty." The blending of recipes from their many home lands and the ingredients available in their new land produced tasty dishes that have been handed down from mother to daughter for generations. Their cooking was truly a folk art requiring much intuitive knowledge, for recipes contained measurements such as "flour to stiffen," "butter the size of a walnut," and "large as an apple." Many of the recipes have been made more exact and standardized providing us with a regional cookery we can all enjoy.
Soups are a traditional part of Pennsylvania Dutch cooking and the Dutch housewife can apparently make soup out of anything. If she has only milk and flour she can still make rivel soup. However, most of their soups are sturdier dishes, hearty enough to serve as the major portion of the evening meal. One of the favorite summer soups in the Pennsylvania Dutch country is Chicken Corn Soup. Few Sunday School picnic suppers would be considered complete without gallons of this hearty soup.
Many of the Pennsylvania Dutch foods are a part of their folklore. No Shrove Tuesday would be complete without raised doughnuts called "fastnachts." One of the many folk tales traces this custom back to the burnt offerings made by their old country ancestors to the goddess of spring. With the coming of Christianity the custom became associated with the Easter season and "fastnachts" are eaten on Shrove Tuesday to insure living to next Shrove Tuesday. Young dandelion greens are eaten on Maundy Thursday in order to remain well throughout the year.
The Christmas season is one of the busiest times in the Pennsylvania Dutch kitchen. For weeks before Christmas the house is filled with the smell of almond cookies, anise cookies, sandtarts, Belsnickle Christmas cookies, walnut kisses, pfeffernusse, and other traditional cookies. Not just a few of one kind but dozens and dozens of many kinds of cookies must be made. There must be plenty for the enjoyment of the family and many holiday visitors.
Regardless of the time of the year or the time of the day there are pies. The Pennsylvania Dutch eat pies for breakfast. They eat pies for lunch. They eat pies for dinner and they eat pies for midnight snacks. Pies are made with a great variety of ingredients from the apple pie we all know to the rivel pie which is made from flour, sugar, and butter. The Dutch housewife is as generous with her pies as she is with all her cooking, baking six or eight at a time not one and two.
The apple is an important Pennsylvania Dutch food. Dried apples form the basis for many typical dishes. Each fall barrels of apples are converted into cider. Apple butter is one of the Pennsylvania Dutch foods which has found national acceptance. The making of apple butter is an all-day affair and has the air of a holiday to it. Early in the morning the neighbors gather and begin to peel huge piles of apples that will be needed. Soon the great copper apple butter kettle is brought out and set up over a wood fire. Apple butter requires constant stirring to prevent burning. However, stirring can be light work for a boy and a girl when they're young and the day is bright and the world is full of promise. By dusk the apple butter is made, neighborhood news is brought up to date and hunger has been driven that much further away for the coming winter.
Food is abundant and appetites are hearty in the Pennsylvania Dutch country. The traditional dishes are relatively simple and unlike most regional cookery the ingredients are readily available. Best of all, no matter who makes them the results are "wonderful good."
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PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH
"Make with a smile for once" "Some folks are wonderful nice"
Salads
FRUIT SALAD DRESSING
1/2 cup sugar
11/2 tblsp. flour
2 eggs
1/2 cup pineapple juice
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 cup whipped cream
Combine the fruit juices and stir slowly into the flour and sugar. Cook. Stirring constantly, until it thickens. (or cook in double boiler)
Add the beaten eggs and cook for another minute. Let cool and fold in the whipped cream. BEET and APPLE SALAD
2 cups apples, diced
2 cups cooked beets, diced
1/4 cup chopped nuts
2 hard boiled eggs
1/2 cup salad dressing parsley
Mix the apples, beets, and chopped eggs. Add salad dressing (see Grandma's salad dressing). Mix and garnish with chopped nuts and
parsley.
A GOOD PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH SALAD DRESSING
2 hard boiled eggs, mashed a little grated onion
3 tablespoons salad oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt pinch of pepper
Mix well together, then put on lettuce and turn and stir until it is well covered with the dressing. Good with any green salad.
PEPPER CABBAGE
2 cups shredded cabbage
1 large green pepper
1/2 cup hot salad dressing
1 tsp. salt
Mix the cabbage, pepper, chopped fine and salt. Let stand 1 hour in cool place. Drain off all liquid. Make a hot dressing with:
1 tblsp. butter
1 tsp. flour
1/2 tsp. dry mustard salt and pepper yolk of 1 egg
1/2 cup vinegar
Melt the butter and blend in the flour. Add vinegar and stir until mixture thickens. Mix mustard, salt and pepper and add to the
liquid. Cool for 4 minutes, pour over the beaten egg yolk and mix well. Cook for 1 minute more. Pour this over the pepper cabbage
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and mix well.
POTATO SALAD DRESSING
1 beaten egg
1/2 cup sugar
1 tbsp. flour
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup vinegar
2 tbsp. butter
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
Combine in the order given, stirring after each addition. Boil until thick. Cool before adding to the salad. BEAN SALAD
3 cups navy beans baked or boiled
1 medium onion
2 tblsp. pickle relish or 1-large pickle
3 hard boiled eggs
2 tblsp. vinegar
2/3 cup boiled salad dressing
11/2 tsp. salt
Chop the onion fine, the boiled eggs, add the relish, or the pickle, chopped and the beans. Mix well together and add salt and salad
dressing. Chill and serve. Green string beans, cut in 1-inch pieces may be used for this salad. DANDELION SALAD
Young dandelion greens
4 thick slices bacon
1/2 cup cream
2 tblsp. butter
2 eggs
1 tsp. salt
1 tblsp. sugar
4 tblsp. vinegar
1/2 tsp. paprika black pepper
Wash dandelions and pick over carefully. Roll in cloth and pat dry. Put into a salad bowl and set in warm place. Cut bacon in small cubes, fry quickly and pour over dandelions. Put butter and cream into a skillet and melt over low heat. Beat eggs, add salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar, then mix with the slightly warm cream mixture. Cook over high heat until dressing is quite thick. Pour, very hot, over the dandelions, stir well and serve.
PENNSYLVANIA COLE SLAW
1 head young cabbage
1/2 cup cream
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup vinegar
Beat cream, sugar, vinegar and salt together thoroughly until the dressing is like whipped cream. Discard outer leaves of cabbage. Shred the rest finely and combine with dressing just before it is ready to serve. Serves six. As variation: Add shredded green and red peppers.
DEVILED EGGS
6 hard-boiled eggs
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1/2 tsp. prepared mustard
2 tsp. soft butter
salt, pepper, paprika
Remove shells and cut eggs in half. Mash the yolks to a smooth paste, adding the mustard, butter, salt and pepper. When well mixed press into the cup-shaped egg whites, round the tops and sprinkle with paprika. For a special treat, add 2 tblsp. finely chopped ham or a small can of deviled ham to the egg yolk mixture.
HOT DUTCH POTATO SALAD
4 slices bacon
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup chopped green pepper
1/4 cup vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
3 hard boiled eggs
2/3 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
1 egg
1 qt. hot, cubed, cooked potatoes
1/4 cup grated raw carrot
Dice bacon and pan fry. Add chopped onion and green pepper. Cook 3 minutes. Add vinegar, salt, pepper, sugar and beaten egg. Cook slightly. Add cubed potatoes, grated carrot and diced hard-cooked eggs. Blend and serve hot.
HOT SLAW
Shred cabbage finely. Boil in slightly salted water until tender. Drain. Serve hot thoroughly mixed with warm cooked salad dressing made as follows:
1/2 teaspoon mustard
11/2 teaspoons salt
11/2 teaspoons sugar
11/2 tablespoons flour
2/3 teaspoon pepper
1 beaten egg
1 cup milk
4 tablespoons vinegar
11/2 tablespoons butter
Mix mustard, salt, sugar, flour, paprika and pepper. Add egg and mix thoroughly. Add milk and vinegar. Cook over hot water, stirring
frequently until thick. Add butter. Cook and stir until melted. CUCUMBER SALAD
2 medium cucumbers
1 medium onion salt
2 tblsp. vinegar sour cream pepper
Pare and thinly slice cucumber and onion sprinkle with a teaspoon of salt and let stand for a few minutes. Pat with towel or absorbent paper to take out all moisture possible. Place cucumbers and onions in serving dish, add the vinegar and mix. Pour on enough sour cream to half cover and dust with pepper. Chill.
PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH Soups
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PHILADELPHIA PEPPER POT
1 lb. honeycomb tripe
1 veal knuckle
11/2 qts. water
2 tablespoons salt
1 tblsp. red pepper, diced
1 tblsp. green pepper, diced
1 tablespoon powdered thyme
6 peppercorns
4 potatoes, diced
2 bay leaves
3 whole cloves
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 stalks celery, diced
2 carrots, diced
2 tomatoes, peeled, cut up
4 onions, thinly sliced
1 piece pimento, cut fine
Wash and scrub tripe thoroughly. Place in large kettle and cover with plenty of cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer until tender. Simmer without boiling, that is the secret of making tripe tender. Drain and dice, 1/2 inch squares. In the meantime place the veal knuckle in another kettle adding 11/2 qts. of water and all ingredients except the potatoes. Simmer at least one hour, put in potatoes and simmer for another hour or until meat falls off the bone. Remove bone and take off all the meat. Cut it into small pieces and together with the tripe put it back into the soup. Bring to a boil and the soup is ready to serve. This soup keeps well and can be reheated.
DUMPLINGS (Spaetzle)
1 cup milk
2 cups flour
2 eggs
1 tsp. salt
Add milk to flour slowly, stirring constantly to keep mixture smooth. Add 1 egg at a time, beating well after each addition. Salt and mix well. When cooking in boiling salted water or meat broth, pour the batter from a shallow bowl, tilting it over the boiling kettle. With a sharp knife slice off pieces of the batter into the boiling liquid. Dip knife in the liquid before each cut to prevent sticking.
CORN CHOWDER
4 slices bacon
2 tblsp. onion, minced
1 tblsp. celery, minced
1 tblsp. pepper, minced
2 cups corn
2 potatoes, diced
3 tomatoes, cut-up
2 pints milk salt
pepper
Dice the bacon and put into pan to brown, add onion, celery and pepper; fry until bacon is crisp. Add the corn and saute together for 3 minutes. Add the potatoes, tomatoes and seasoning, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Finally add the milk, heat to the boiling point and serve with a little chopped parsley.
EGG NOODLES
2 eggs
1/2 tsp. salt
sifted flour
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Add salt to the eggs and work in enough flour to make a stiff dough. Knead thoroughly, divide into 2 portions and roll each out as thin as possible, on a floured board. Cover with cloth and let stand until partly dry. Roll up the dough and cut into 1/4 inch strips. Spread out on paper to dry a little longer.
DUTCH COUNTRY BEAN SOUP
1 lb. soup beans
1 ham bone
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 cup diced celery
1 can tomato sauce
1/2 cup diced potatoes
2 tsp. minced parsley salt and pepper
Soak beans in water overnight. Drain, add fresh water and cook slowly with the ham bone for 2 hours. Put in the onion, celery, potatoes, tomato sauce, parsley and the salt and pepper and simmer until vegetables are soft. Remove the ham bone, trim off any meat, cut it up and add to soup. Many Pennsylvania Dutch cooks cut up hard boiled eggs and add them to the soup.
SPLIT PEA SOUP
1 lb. split peas
3 qts. water
1 ham bone salt
2 carrots, sliced
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 large onion, chopped pepper
Wash peas, add cold water, vegetables and ham bone and simmer for three hours or until mixture is thick. Remove ham bone, force peas through coarse sieve and season to taste. Dilute with milk. Serve with toasted croutons.
VEGETABLE SOUP
1 soup bone
2 lbs. stewing beef
2 qts. water
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup tomatoes
2 tsp. salt black pepper
Into 2 qts. of water put soup bone and beef and boil for 2 hours. For a hearty, substantial soup, cut up the meat in small pieces and return to the broth. Add tomatoes, onions and celery. Also add other available vegetables, such as diced potatoes, carrots, turnip, string beans, corn, peas, cabbage or chopped peppers. Boil until all vegetables are tender.
MEAT FILLING for NOODLES
1 cup ground beef
2 tblsp. fat
1 small onion
1/2 cup dry bread crumbs
1 cup bread cubes salt and pepper
2 tblsp. butter
Make a recipe of noodle dough (see above). Roll thin, let dry and cut into 3 inch squares. Brown meat in hot fat with the onion and
seasoning. Soak bread cubes in water and press dry then add to the meat. Spoon mixture on the center of the noodle squares, fold
in half and seal edges, like little pillows. Drop the filled squares into salted boiling water and cook 8 to 10 minutes. Lift carefully with
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draining spoon to a serving dish and top with the half cup of bread crumbs which have been browned in butter. EGG BALLS FOR SOUP
Rub the yolks of three or four hard boiled eggs to a smooth paste and salt. To these add two raw ones lightly beaten. Add enough flour to hold the paste together. Make into balls with floured hands and set in cool place until just before your soup comes off. Put the balls carefully into the soup and boil one minute.
SPINACH FILLING for NOODLES
2 lbs. raw spinach, chopped
3 tblsp. butter salt and pepper
11/2 cups bread crumbs
2 eggs
Make a recipe of noodle dough (see above). Steam and brown the spinach in melted butter. Add the eggs, 1 cup of dry bread crumbs
and the seasoning. Mix well, spoon mixture on noodle dough squares and proceed as above. SALSIFY or VEGETABLE OYSTER SOUP
11/2 cups diced salsify
11/2 cups water
1 tblsp. vinegar
1 tblsp. butter
1 quart milk
salt and pepper
Scrub, scrape and clean salsify. Dice and cook in salted water, with 1 tablespoon of vinegar added, until tender. Drain, add butter and rich milk, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and serve with crackers.
BEEF SOUP with DUMPLINGS
1 soup bone
2 lbs. stewing beef
2 quarts water salt
11/2 cups flour
1 egg
1/2 cup milk pepper
Cook meat until tender and remove from the broth. Add water until you have 2 quarts of broth. Make dumplings by mixing beaten egg and milk into flour until about the consistency of pancake batter. Drop from teaspoon into the boiling broth to form small dumplings. Cook for 3 or 4 minutes.
POTATO SOUP (Gruumbier Suupe)
4 cups diced potatoes
1 medium onion
3 tblsp. flour
1 tblsp. butter
1 qt. milk
1 egg, beaten salt and pepper parsley
Boil potatoes and onion in small amount of water until soft. Add milk, salt and pepper then reheat. Brown flour in the butter and
blend it slowly into the potato mixture. Add a little water to the beaten egg and stir into the soup. Let it cook for a few minutes and serve with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.
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CHICKEN CORN SOUP
1 stewing hen, about 4-lbs.
4 qts. water
1 onion, chopped
10 ears corn
1/2 cup celery, chopped with leaves
2 hard-boiled eggs salt and pepper rivels
Put cut-up chicken and onion into the water and cook slowly until tender, add salt. Remove chicken, cut the meat into small (1-inch)
pieces and return to broth, together with corn, which has been cut from the cob, celery and seasoning. Continue to simmer. Make rivels by combining 1 cup flour, a pinch of salt, 1 egg and a little milk. Mix well with fork or fingers to form small crumbs. Drop these into the soup, also the chopped, hard-boiled eggs. Boil for 15 minutes longer.
CORN SOUP with RIVELS
3 cups fresh or canned corn
2 qts. water
1 cup rich milk
12/3 cups flour
1 egg
3 tblsp. butter
11/2 tsp. salt parsley
Cook corn in water for 10 minutes. Make a batter by mixing egg, flour and milk together. Pour this batter through a colander, letting
it drop into the boiling corn. Add butter and salt. Cook slowly in a covered pan for 3 minutes. Garnish with chopped parsley. Soup should be eaten immediately after rivels are cooked.
CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP
4 lb. chicken
21/2 qts. water
21/2 tsp. salt
3 cups cooked noodles
Cut a young stewing chicken into serving pieces, bring to a boil and simmer for 21/2 hours, adding water as needed. Skim off the fat
and add:
1 tsp. peppercorns
1 small onion, sliced
1 carrot, sliced
1 bay leaf
1 tblsp. parsley, chopped salt and pepper
Bring to boil again and add noodles, preferably home made noodles. Cook for 20 minutes longer. PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH
Main Dishes
CREAMED CABBAGE and DRIED BEEF
1/2 large head cabbage
1/4 lb. dried beef
11/2 cups white sauce
1/2 cup buttered crumbs
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Chop cabbage coarsely and cook in salted water until tender, then drain. Chop the dried beef and soak in a little warm water for 10 minutes. Grease a casserole and in it place alternate layers of cabbage and dried beef. Pour the white sauce over it and top with buttered bread crumbs. Bake in moderate oven (350-f) 25 minutes.
DUTCH NOODLE CHEESE RING
1 cup egg noodles
3 tblsp. butter
3 tblsp. flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. paprika
11/2 cups milk
2 eggs, well beaten
Swiss cheese (1/4 to 1/2 lb.)
Boil noodles in salted water until tender. Drain and place in well-greased ring mold. Melt the butter, add flour and blend smooth. Stir
in milk and cook, stirring constantly until it thickens. Add seasoning and cheese cut in small pieces. Cook until cheese melts. To 1/2 of the sauce add the well-beaten eggs and mix well. Pour this over the noodles. Set mold in pan of hot water and bake in moderate (350-f) oven 45 minutes. Unmold on large platter, pour over the remaining hot cheese sauce. Fill center with peas, and carrots or spinach.
POTATO FILLING
2 cups mashed potatoes
1 egg, beaten
1 qt. stale bread, cubed
2 tblsp. butter
1 onion, minced
1/2 cup celery, diced
1 tblsp. minced parsley
1 tsp. salt
pinch of pepper
Put the beaten egg into the mashed potatoes and mix well. Melt the butter in a large skillet and saute the onion and celery. Stir in the bread crumbs to toast for a few minutes, stirring constantly. Add all the other ingredients, combine with the potatoes and mix thoroughly.
DUTCH CABBAGE ROLLS
1 lb. ground beef
2/3 cup rice, uncooked
1 egg
1 onion, chopped fine
2 tblsp. shortening
Juice of 1 lemon
1 can tomato soup
1/2 cup celery, chopped
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. parsley, minced
6 cabbage leaves salt and pepper
Combine meat, salt, pepper, rice and egg, mix well. For the sauce: saute onion in the butter until soft. Add tomato soup and equal
amount of water to onion, also celery, parsley, lemon juice, sugar, salt and pepper. Cook for 10 minutes. Wash the cabbage leaves and boil until tender. Put equal amounts of the meat mixture into cabbage leaves, roll tightly and secure with toothpicks. Place rolls in sauce pan, pour sauce over them, cover pan and cook very slowly for 3 hours.
DUCK UN KRAUT
Prepare a young duck for roasting. Place in a roasting pan and add 2 quarts of sauerkraut, 1 cup of water and 3 tablespoons granu-
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lated sugar. Cover and bake until duck is tender and golden brown. Serve with creamy mashed potatoes. PORK POT PIE with DUMPLINGS
8 loin pork chops
2 qts. water
1 dumpling recipe
4 medium potatoes
1 lb. sausage in casing
Boil the pork chops in water for 1/2 hour. Then add the potatoes cut in half and the sausage cut in 1 inch pieces. Cook until potatoes are almost done. Drop well-beaten dumpling dough into the boiling meat mixture, cover and cook 10 minutes.
SAUERBRATEN
2 inch thick piece of chuck, pot roast or tender boiling beef. Place in dish or bowl and cover with solution of half vinegar and half water, put in two large onions sliced. Do this two or three days before the meat is wanted. On the day before it is to be cooked cut 3 or 4 slices of bacon into 1" pieces and chop fine 1 tablespoon of the onion which has been soaking in the vinegar. Cut holes in the meat 1 or 2 inches apart and stuff bits of the bacon and chopped onion into the holes. Put the meat back into the solution, add 1 tablespoon whole cloves and 1 teaspoon whole allspice. Bake the meat as a pot roast in part of the solution, until tender. Use more of the solution, adding sugar to taste, in making the gravy which will be almost black.
HORSERADISH SAUCE
For Boiled beef or Corned beef
2 tblsp. butter
2 tblsp. flour
1 cup milk
1/4 cup grated horseradish
1/4 tsp. dry mustard salt and pepper
Melt butter, remove from heat and stir in flour. Add the milk gradually, stirring constantly, until mixture boils and thickens. Add salt
and pepper and cook for 3 minutes more. Add the grated horseradish and dry mustard and blend well. Keep hot in double boiler. Serve on slices of boiled beef or corned beef.
SCHNITZEL MEAT
11/2 lbs. veal steak cut in cubes
2 tblsp. shortening
2 tblsp. flour
1 cup tomato juice
2 carrots, diced
1 small onion, chopped fine.
Salt and pepper
Flour
Dredge meat with flour and season. Melt shortening (preferably bacon fat) and brown the meat in it. Remove meat from the pan,
stir in the flour and blend. Add the tomato juice and stir well until mixture thickens. Add meat, carrots and onion. Cover closely and
simmer for 45 minutes. CHICKEN POT PIE
1 cup flour
1 egg
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 egg shell of water small teaspoon salt
