Through Scandinavia to Moscow

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William Seymour Edwards. Through Scandinavia to Moscow

Through Scandinavia to Moscow

Table of Contents

FOREWORD

ILLUSTRATIONS

I. London to Denmark Across the North Sea

II. Esbjerg—Across Jutland, Funen and Zealand, the Little Belt and the Big Belt to Copenhagen—Friends Met along the Way

III. Copenhagen, a Quaint and Ancient City

IV. Elsinore and Kronborg—An Evening Dinner Party

V. Across the Sund to Sweden and Incidents of Travel to Kristiania

VI. A Day Upon the Rand Fjord and Along the Etna Elv—To Frydenlund—Ole Mon Our Driver

VII. A Drive Along the Baegna Elv—the Aurdals Vand and Many More to Skogstad

VIII. Over the Height of Land—A Wonderful Ride Down the Laera Dal to the Sogne Fjord

IX. A Day Upon the Sogne Fjord

X. From Stalheim to Eida—The Waterfall of Skjerve Fos—The Mighty Hardanger Fjord

XI. The Buarbrae and Folgefonden Glaciers—Cataracts and Mountain Tarns—Odda to Horre

XII. Over the Lonely Haukeli Fjeld—Witches and Pixies, and Maidens Milking Goats

XIII. Descending from the Fjelde—The Telemarken Fjords—The Arctic Twilight

XIV. Kristiania to Stockholm—A Wedding Party—Differing Norsk and Swede

XV. Stockholm the Venice of the North—Life and Color of the Swedish Capital—Manners of the People and their King

XVI. How We Entered Russia—The Passport System—Difficult to Get Into Russia and More Difficult to Get Out

XVII. St. Petersburg—The Great Wealth of the Few—The Bitter Poverty of the Many—Conditions Similar to Those Preceding the French Revolution.[2]

XVIII. En Route to Moscow—Under Military Guard—Suspected of Designs on Life of the Czar

XIX. Our Arrival at Moscow—Splendor and Squalor—Enlightenment and Superstition—Russia Asiatic Rather Than European

XX. The Splendid Pageant of the Russian Mass—The Separateness of Russian Religious Feeling From Modern Thought—Russia Mediaeval and Pagan

XXI. The First Snows—Moscow to Warsaw—Fat Farm Lands and Frightful Poverty of the Mujiks Who Own them and Till them—I Recover My Passport

XXII. The Slav and the Jew—The Slav’s Envy and Jealousy of the Jew

XXIII. Across Germany and Holland to England—A Hamburg Wein Stube, the “Simple Fisher-Folk” of Maarken—Two Gulden at Den Haag

INDEX

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William Seymour Edwards

Published by Good Press, 2021

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The feeling and impression which stole over me the first morning I strolled about the city became almost one of sadness. The wistful, pensive faces of the people; their unobtrusive politeness; the inconsequential traffic of drays and carts along the quiet streets; canals and quays half empty where there should have been big packs of boats; absence everywhere of bustle and ado,—all these were almost pathetic. It might have been a Puritan Sabbath, so silent stood the big stone docks and piers among the lapping waters. There was none of

the ponderous movement of London, none of the liveliness of Paris, nor the busy-ness of Hamburg, of Bremen, of Amsterdam, of Rotterdam and Antwerp, although once Copenhagen was peer of any one. The bales of goods, the tons of merchandise which once filled her lofts and cellars are no longer there. The commerce which once made the city rich and gave her power has ebbed away. She is far fallen into commercial and industrial decay.

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