Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics

Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics
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Activity in the arena of surface chemistry and adhesion aspects in cosmetics is substantial, but the information is scattered in many diverse publications media and no book exists which discusses surface chemistry and adhesion in cosmetics in unified manner. <br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.3333px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.3333px;" />This book containing 15 chapters written by eminent researchers from academia and industry is divided into three parts: Part 1: General Topics; Part 2:Surface Chemistry Aspects; and Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects. The topics covered include: Lip biophysical properties and characterization; use of advanced silicone materials in long-lasting cosmetics; non-aqueous dispersions of acrylate copolymers in lipsticks; cosmetic oils in Lipstick structure; chemical structure of the hair surface, surface forces and interactions; AFM for hair surface characterization; application of AFM in characterizing hair, skin and cosmetic deposition; SIMS as a surface analysis method for hair, skin and cosmetics; surface tensiometry approach to characterize cosmetic products; spreading of hairsprays on hair; color transfer from long-wear face foundation products; interaction of polyelectrolytes and surfactants on hair surfaces; cosmetic adhesion to facial skin; and adhesion aspects in semi-permanent mascara; lipstick adhesion measurement.

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Группа авторов. Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics

Table of Contents

List of Tables

List of Illustrations

Guide

Pages

Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics

Preface

1. Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods for Long-Wear Lipsticks

1.1 Introduction

1.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties. 1.2.1 Lip Anatomy and Biophysical Properties

1.2.2 Surface Properties of the Lips

1.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks

1.3.1 Stability Testing of Lipstick Formulations

1.3.2 Physical Properties of Lipstick Formulations. 1.3.2.1 Lipstick Hardness and Deposition

1.3.2.2 Lipstick Wear Assays. 1.3.2.2.1 Adsorption by Contact Angle Measurements

1.3.2.2.2 Rub Test with Oil and Water

1.3.2.2.3 Adhesion with Scotch® Tape

1.3.2.2.4 Adhesion Testing

1.3.2.3 Lipstick Cohesion Test

1.3.2.4 Tack Testing

1.3.2.5 Thermal Analysis of Lipsticks

1.3.3 Visual Properties of Lipstick Formulations. 1.3.3.1 Transfer Resistance Test

1.3.3.2 Gloss Measurement

1.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing

1.5 Summary

Acknowledgements

References

2. Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit

2.1 Introduction

2.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Properties and Potential Applications

2.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures

2.3.1 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures: Wax Type. 2.3.1.1 Non-Natural Waxes

2.3.1.2 Natural Waxes

2.3.2 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures: Oil Polarity

2.3.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures: Oil Viscosity

2.3.4 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures: Cooling Rate

2.4 Study On Model Oil-Wax System Containing Polyethylene Wax

2.4.1 Materials

2.4.2 Measurements. 2.4.2.1 Oil Viscosity

2.4.2.2 Oil Polarity by Relative Permittivity

2.4.2.3 Hardness of Lipsticks

2.4.2.4 Amount and Thickness of Lipstick Deposit on Bioskin

2.4.2.5 Wax Crystallization Study

2.4.2.6 Morphology of Wax Structure by SEM

2.5 Results and Discussion. 2.5.1 Factors Affecting Lipstick Structure: Oil Viscosity

2.5.2 Factors Affecting Lipstick Structure: Oil Polarity

2.5.3 Factors Affecting Lipstick Structure: Wax Amount

2.5.4 Influence of Wax-Oil Lipstick Structure on its Deposition and Sensorial Perception

2.6 Summary

Acknowledgements

References

3. UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources

3.1 Introduction

3.2 UV Cure Chemistry

3.2.1 Initiation Reaction

3.2.2 Propagation Reaction

3.2.3 Chain Transfer Reaction

3.2.4 Termination Reaction

3.2.5 Photoinitiation

3.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-Doped Low-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbs and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) 3.3.1 UV Light Spectrum

3.3.2 Matching the PI with the UV Light Source and Pigments Absorption/Transmission

3.4 UV Cure Oxygen Inhibition Issues

3.5 Special Considerations for the Use of UV Nail Gel Technology Due to Oxygen Inhibition

3.5.1 UV Nail Gel Cure Units: GA-FL and LED

3.5.2 UV Cure and Free Radical Oxygen Inhibition

3.5.3 Methods for Mitigating Oxygen Inhibition During UV Cure

3.5.4 Combinatorial Chemistry Technique Used to Mitigate Oxygen Inhibition for Low Energy UV-A Cure Resulting in Tack-Free Surfaces

3.6 How to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel

3.6.1 Formulating with (Meth) Acrylate Monomers

3.6.2 Formulating with the Proper Photoinitiator

3.7 Formulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV Cure Oligomers and Monomers

3.7.1 Formulation of a UV Nail Gel Using a UV Cure Polyurethane Dispersion (UV-PUD)

3.7.2 Bio-Based UV Cured Nail Gel Materials

3.8 Human Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy Properties

3.9 Adhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail Plate

3.10 Removal of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail Plate

3.11 Alternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution to Remedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus)

3.12 UV-Cured Nail Gel Safety

3.13 Prospects on UV Nail Gels

3.14 Summary

Acknowledgements

References

4. Rheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Application and Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer Formulations

4.1 Introduction

4.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation

4.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background

4.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Application to Nail Polishes. 4.4.1 Shear Rheology Characterization and Tack Test

4.4.2 Application of Nail Paints: Brush Loading, Sagging, Nail Coating, and Dispensing

4.4.3 Extensional Rheology Characterization using Dripping-onto-Substrate (DoS) Rheometry

4.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes

4.6 Results and Discussion. 4.6.1 Shear Rheology of Twelve Nail Polishes

4.6.2 Brush Loading and Sagging

4.6.3 Brush Application

4.6.4 Tack Test of Nail Lacquers

4.6.5 Dripping Nail Polish after Automated Brush Loading

4.6.6 Capillarity-Driven Pinching Dynamics and Extensional Rheology of Nail Polishes

4.7 Summary and Conclusions

Acknowledgements

References

5. Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting Cosmetics

5.1 Introduction

5.2 Adhesion to Skin

5.2.1 Skin as a Substrate for Adhesion

5.2.1.1 Structure of Human Skin

5.2.1.2 Skin Surface Physicochemical Properties

5.2.1.2.1 Contact Angle and Surface Free Energy

5.2.1.2.2 Critical Surface Tension

5.2.1.3 Skin Mechanical Properties

5.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics

5.3.1 Silicones in Cosmetic Products

5.3.2 Structure-Property Relation of Silicones

5.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics

5.4.1 Silicone MQ Resins in Color Cosmetics

5.4.1.1 MQ Resin Structure and Properties

5.4.1.2 MQ Resin as a Tackifier for Long-Wear Benefits

5.4.1.2.1 Molecular Interactions in MQ Resin/PDMS Blend

5.4.1.2.2 Viscoelastic Properties of MQ/PDMS Blend

5.4.1.2.3 Polymer Properties Affecting MQ/Polymer Blend Performance

5.4.2 Silsesquioxane Resins in Long-Wear Cosmetics

5.4.3 Silicone Acrylate Copolymers in Long-Wear Cosmetics

5.4.3.1 Hybrid Silicone Acrylate Emulsion for Long-Wear Cosmetics

5.4.3.2 Solvent-Borne Hybrid Silicone Acrylate Copolymers

5.4.4 Ionic Functionalized Silicones for Long-Wear Cosmetics

5.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-Wear Cosmetics

Acknowledgements

References

6. Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions

6.1 Introduction

6.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface

6.3 Chemical and Physical Modifications of the Hair Surface

6.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface

6.4.1 Mapping the Hair Surface Chemistry

6.4.2 Forces at the Surface of Hair

6.4.3 Interaction with Cosmetic Actives

6.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Nature of the Hair Surface

6.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorial and Consumer Benefits

6.7 Prospects

6.8 Summary

Acknowledgements

References

7. AFM for Hair Surface Characterisation

7.1 Hair Structure

7.2 Elements of AFM

7.2.1 Imaging - Topography

7.2.2 Force Measurements Using the AFM

7.2.2.1 Force Curves

7.2.2.2 Friction/Lateral Force

7.2.2.3 Elastic Theory and Nanoindentation

7.2.3 Requirements for Good Use of AFM – Calibration

7.3 The Use of AFM to Characterize the Hair Surface/Cuticle. 7.3.1 Hair Dimensions and Considerations

7.3.2 Hair Surface Topography

7.3.3 Swelling

7.3.4 Friction

7.3.5 Adhesion

7.3.6 Charge Density Mapping - Tapping

7.3.7 Nanoindentation

7.4 Cosmetic Treatment (e.g. Bleaching) as Shown by AFM

7.5 Summary

References

8. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) as a Surface Characterization Tool for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetic Deposition

8.1 Introduction

8.2 Atomic Force Microscopy Compared to Other Microscopy Techniques

8.3 The Principles of Atomic Force Microscopy

8.4 A Brief History of Hair Surface Investigation via Atomic Force Microscopy

8.5 Lateral Force Microscopy (LFM) of the Hair Surface

8.6 Adhesion at the Nanoscale via AFM

8.7 Elastic Modulus Measurement via AFM

8.8 Hair Studies via AFM. 8.8.1 Nanomechanical Properties of the Hair Surface

8.8.2 Thickness of Deposited Films on the Hair Surface

8.8.3 Inferring the Film Thickness of Polymeric Formulations on the Hair Surface from Nanomechanical Measurements

8.8.4 Nanomechanical Analysis of a Commercial Long-Lasting Formulation on the Hair Surface

8.8.5 Nanoscale Characterization of the Impact of Commercial Hair Care Products on the Hair Fiber Interior

8.9 Skin Studies via AFM. 8.9.1 Skin Surface Roughness and Skin Elastic Modulus

8.9.2 Effect of Cosmetic Deposition on Skin

8.9.3 Makeup Formulations from Two Competing Cosmetic Manufacturers on Non-Skin Substrate

8.9.4 Scaling Up Skin Cosmetics Formulations from Laboratory to Large-Scale Manufacturing

8.9.5 Interaction of Components in Skin Cosmetic Polymer Blends

8.10 Summary and Prospects

References

9. Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry as a Surface Analysis Method for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetics

9.1 Introduction

9.2 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 9.2.1 Fundamentals

9.2.2 Depth Resolution in SIMS: Key to Unlocking Topmost Surface Analysis

9.2.3 Static Versus Dynamic Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry

9.2.4 Quantification in SIMS

9.2.5 SIMS Spectrometers

9.2.6 Primary and Analytical Ion Beams

9.3 Studying the Skin via TOF-SIMS. 9.3.1 Imaging the Skin Barrier Properties

9.3.2 Chemical Changes Due to Skin Aging via TOF-SIMS

9.3.3 Penetration of Active Ingredients through the Human Skin

9.3.4 Fatty Acids as Penetration Enhancers as Evaluated with TOF-SIMS

9.4 Studying the Hair Via TOF-SIMS. 9.4.1 Depth-Profiling the Hair Fiber Surface Directly Via Ion Beam Sputtering

9.4.2 Identifying Unknown Chemistries on the Hair Fiber Surface with TOF-SIMS

9.4.3 Hair Crosslinking Materials Analysis via TOF-SIMS

9.4.3.1 A Kinetic Study of Thin Film Crosslinking on Silicon Wafer Substrate by TOF-SIMS Depth-Profiling

9.4.3.2 Detecting Long-Lasting, Shampoo-Resistant Crosslinked Thin Film on the Silicon Wafer Substrate

9.4.3.3 Long-Lasting, Shampoo-Resistant Crosslinked Material on the Hair Substrate

9.5 Future Prospects

References

10. Surface Tensiometry Approach to Characterize Cosmetic Products in the Beauty Sector

10.1 Introduction

10.2 Peels

10.2.1 Characterization of the Formulations for Skin Peels

10.2.1.1 Surface Tension Approach to the Study of Chemical Peels for Face Skin Treatments

10.3 Face Masks

10.3.1 Constituents of Face Masks. 10.3.1.1 Honey

10.3.1.2 Plant Oils

10.3.1.3 Egg White

10.3.1.4 Lavender Oil

10.3.1.5 Bentonite Clay

10.3.2 Surface Tensiometry Approach to the Study of Face Skin Masks

10.4 Serums

10.4.1 Surface Tensiometry Approach to the Study of Serums for Skin Applications

10.5 Eye Contour Creams

10.5.1 Surface Tensiometry Approach to the Study of Eye Contour Creams

10.6 Mascara

10.6.1 Characterization of Mascara

10.6.1.1 Surface Tensiometry Approach to the Study of Mascara

10.7 Eyeshadows

10.7.1 Surface Tensiometry Approach to the Study of Eyeshadows

10.8 Lipsticks

10.8.1 Surface Tensiometry Approach to the Study of Lipsticks

10.9 Foundation

10.9.1 Surface Tensiometry Approach to the Study of Face Skin Foundation

10.10 Anti-Aging Formulations

10.10.1 Surface Tension Approach to the Study of Anti-Aging Formulations

10.11 Summary

Acknowledgement

References

11. Spreading of Hairsprays on Hair

11.1 Introduction

11.2 Background on Interaction of Liquid Droplets with Fibers

11.2.1 Droplet Shapes in Relation to Fiber Diameter

11.2.2 Absorption of Liquids into Hair Assemblies

11.3 Materials and Experimental Methods. 11.3.1 Materials

11.3.2 Methods. 11.3.2.1 Imaging System

11.3.2.2 The Spreading Setup

11.4 Results and Discussion. 11.4.1 Instability of Liquid Sprays on Hair

11.4.2 Synthetic and Hair Fiber Comparison

11.4.3 Holding Spray on One Hair Fiber

11.4.4 Holding Spray on Parallel Hair Fibers

11.4.5 Holding Spray on Crossing Hair Fibers

11.4.6 Spray on Three Crossing Hairs with a Load of 10 g

11.4.7 Holding Spray on One Bleached Hair Fiber

11.4.8 Holding Spray on Two Bleached Hair Fibers Parallel to Each Other

11.4.9 Holding Spray on Two Crossing Bleached Hair Fibers

11.5 General Observations on the Behavior of Holding Spray on Hair

11.6 Shine Spray on One Bleached Hair Fiber

11.7 Summary

Acknowledgements

References

12. Quantification of the Color Transfer from Long-Wear Face Foundation Products: The Relevance of Wettability

12.1 Introduction

12.2 Experiments. 12.2.1 Contact Angle Measurement

12.2.2.1 Foundation Transfer – In Vitro

12.2.2.2 Foundation Transfer – In Vivo

12.2.2.3 Image Analysis of Foundation Transfer

12.3 Results and Discussion. 12.3.1 Contact Angle of Water on Polyester Substrate and Deposited Foundations

12.3.2 Contact Angle of Water on Bio Skin Substrate and Deposited Foundations

12.3.3 In Vitro Foundation Transfer from Polyester Application Substrate

12.3.4 In Vitro Foundation Transfer from Bio Skin Application Substrate

12.3.5 In Vitro Foundation Transfer – Impact of Foundation Shade

12.3.6 In Vivo Foundation Transfer

12.4 Summary and Perspectives

Acknowledgments

References

13. Interaction of Polyelectrolytes and Surfactants on Hair Surfaces. Deposits and their Characterization

13.1 Introduction

13.2 Hair Structure and its External Surface. 13.2.1 Hair Structure

13.2.2 Chemical Composition of Hair

13.2.3 Physico-Chemical Heterogeneity of the Cuticle

13.2.4 Hair Surface and its Interaction with Polyelectrolytes

13.3 Experimental Approaches for the Evaluation of the Deposition of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Systems onto Model Surfaces

13.3.1 Model Surfaces

13.3.2 Approaches for Quantitative Study of the Adsorption Process

13.3.3 A Typical Formulation of a Hair Conditioner

13.3.4 Bulk Behavior of Polyelectrolyte - Surfactant Mixtures

13.3.5 Polyelectrolyte–Surfactant Mixtures Adsorbed onto Solid Surfaces

13.3.6 Deposition Enhanced by Dilution

13.4 Theoretical Modelling of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Mixtures

13.4.1 Bulk Calculations

13.4.2 Surface Calculations

13.5 Prospects

13.6 Summary

Acknowledgements

References

14. Adhesion Aspect and Film-Forming Properties of Hydrocarbon Polymers-Based Lipsticks

14.1 Introduction

14.2 Synthesis and Characterization of the Model Oil Compatible Polymers Dispersions. 14.2.1 Chemical Composition of Non-Aqueous Polymer Dispersions

14.2.2 Physical Properties of Non-Aqueous Polymer Dispersions. 14.2.2.1 Molecular Weight and Size of Polymer Aggregates

14.2.2.2 Glass/Vitreous Physical Properties of Polymer Dispersion - Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC)

14.2.2.3 Dynamic Mechanical Analysis (DMA)

14.2.2.4 Mechanical Properties of Films Cast from Polymer Dispersion

14.2.2.5 Morphology of NAD Samples by Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM)

14.2.2.6 Surface Nanostructure of Films Cast From Polymer by Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM)

14.2.2.6.1 Topography & Surface Roughness

14.2.2.6.2 Nanomechanical Property

14.2.2.6.3 Influence of Polymer Composition on Nanoadhesion The monomer type in the copolymer composition also affects the adhesion property of the NAD thin films as seen in Figure 14.12. Replacing the methyl acrylate by either ethyl acrylate or acrylic acid increased the adhesion force of the thin film as measured by atomic force microscopy (AFM), thus improving the adhesion of the thin film to the substrate. The adhesion force is inversely related to the thin film’s elastic modulus, and NAD - 1 has the lowest adhesion force and NAD - 3 has the highest adhesion force. 14.2.3 Thin Film Property and Adhesion Aspects

14.2.3.1 Surface Free Energy of NAD Films

14.2.3.2 Sebum and Water Resistance

14.2.3.2.1 Spreading and Wetting of Water and Sebum on NAD Film Surfaces

14.2.3.2.2 Sebum and Water Sensitivities of NAD Films

14.2.3.2.3 Wear and Tack of NAD Films

14.2.3.2.4 Gloss of NAD Films

14.3 NADs as Film-Formers for Long-Wear, Non-Transfer Lipstick

14.3.1 In-Vitro Evaluations

14.3.2 In-Vivo Evaluation

14.4 Summary and Prospects

Acknowledgements

Annex. Synthesis Procedure for Non-Aqueous Polymer Dispersions

References

15. Factors Enhancing Adhesion of Color Cosmetic Products to Skin: The Role of Pigments and Fillers

15.1 Introduction

15.2 Overview of Pigments: Basic Physico-chemical Considerations in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics

15.2.1 Pigments and Fillers in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics

15.2.1.1 Inorganic Pigments

15.2.1.2 Organic Pigments in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics

15.2.1.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Long-Wear Cosmetics

15.2.1.4 Importance of Pigment Wetting and Surface Treatment in a Color Dispersion in Long-Wear Cosmetics

15.2.1.5 Factors Affecting the Long-Lasting Color in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics: Dispersion of Treated Pigments

15.2.1.6 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Film-Formers: Functional Fillers

15.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Long-Wear Color Cosmetics

15.3.1 Long-Wear Liquid Foundation

15.3.2 Long-Wear Powders. 15.3.2.1 Oil Absorbent and Water Absorbent Systems

15.3.2.2 Oil Repellent and Water Repellent Systems

15.3.3 Long-Wear Eye Shadow

15.3.4 Long-Wear and Transfer-Resistant Lipsticks

15.3.4.1 Pigments Used in Long-Wear Lip Products

15.3.4.2 Typical Fillers Used in Long-Wear Lipstick

15.3.5 Long-Wear Nail Polish. 15.3.5.1 Conventional and UV Nail Polish

15.3.5.2 Water-Based Nail Polish

15.3.6 Long-Wear Mascara and Eyeliner

15.3.6.1 Pigments and Fillers Used in Long-Wear Mascara

15.3.6.2 Long-Wear Mascara

15.4 Summary and Prospects

Acknowledgments

References

16. Factors Affecting Cosmetics Adhesion to Facial Skin

16.1 Introduction

16.2 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Skin Substrate Properties

16.2.1 Skin Types

16.2.2 Surface Free Energy of Skin

16.2.3 Skin Young’s Modulus

16.2.4 Skin Surface Roughness

16.2.5 Wetting and Spreading of Sebum and Sweat on Human Skin

16.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Formulation Components

16.3.1 Volatile Fluids

16.3.2 Treated Pigments

16.3.2.1 Silicone Surface Treatment

16.3.2.2 Amino Acid Surface Treatment

16.3.2.3 Silane Surface Treatment

16.3.2.4 Organo-titanate Surface Treatment

16.3.2.5 Hybrid Surface Treatment Chemistries

16.3.2.6 Surface Treatment Chemistry Affects Formulation Performance

16.3.3 Film-Formers

16.3.3.1 MQ Silicone Resins

16.3.3.2 T-Propyl Silicone Resin

16.3.3.3 Silicone Acrylates

16.3.3.4 MQ/Dimethicone Hybrids

16.3.4 Emulsifiers. 16.3.4.1 Silicone Emulsifiers

16.3.4.2 Non-Silicone Emulsifiers

16.3.5 Fillers

16.4 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Combination of Film-Formers and Emulsifiers

16.4.1 Combination of MQ Resin and Silicone Emulsifier

16.4.2 Combination of Silicone Acrylate and Silicone Emulsifier

16.5 Summary and Prospects

Acknowledgements

References

17. Adhesion Aspect in Semi-Permanent Mascara

17.1 Introduction. 17.1.1 History of Mascara - Invention of the Mascara

17.1.2 Birth of the First Mascara

17.2 Structure of Eyelash and Eye Lid: An Overview

17.3 Types of Mascaras

17.4 Components in Mascara Formulations

17.5 Long-Wear Mascaras

17.5.1 One-Day Wear Mascara

17.5.2 Semi-Permanent Mascara (3 - 5-Day Wear)

17.5.3 Micropigmentation/Lash Tinting (30-Day Wear or Longer)

17.6 Evaluation Methods for Long-Wear Mascara. 17.6.1 In Vitro Evaluation

17.6.2 In Vivo Evaluation by Expert Panels or Consumers

17.7 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara to an Eyelash

17.7.1 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara to Eyelash: Mascara Composition

17.7.1.1 Film-Formers

17.7.1.1.1 Trimethylsiloxysilicate Resins

17.7.1.1.2 Rosin Esters

17.7.1.1.3 Latex

17.7.1.2 Critical Pigment Volume Concentration (CPVC)

17.7.2 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara to Eyelash: Rheology of Mascara

17.7.2.1 Bulk Rheology of Long-Wear Mascara Formulation

17.7.2.2 Flow Property of Long-Wear Mascara Formulations

17.7.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara to Eyelash: Surface Property of Mascara Deposit. 17.7.3.1 Spreading and Wetting of Long-Wear Mascara on Eyelash

17.7.3.2 Deposition of Mascara on Eyelash

17.7.3.3 Internal Stress

17.7.3.4 Sebum/Sweat/Water Resistance

17.7.4 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara to Eyelash: Mechanical Property of Mascara Deposit

17.8 Removability of Mascara

17.9 Summary and Prospects

Acknowledgments

References

18. Lipstick Adhesion Measurement

18.1 Introduction

18.2 Definition of Adhesion

18.3 Sensory Metrology: Subjective Methods

18.3.1 Self-Assessment Tests (Consumer Tests)

18.3.2 Tests with an Experimenter

18.3.3 Tests with an Instrumental Method

18.4 Mechanical Tests: Objective Methods

18.5 Correlation Between Sensory and Instrumental Tests

18.6 Summary

Acknowledgments

References

Index

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14. J. Carey, M. Cohen, C. Curry, K. Devriendt, L. Holmes, and A. Verloes, Elements of morphology: Standard terminology for the lips, mouth, and oral region, Am. J. Med. Genetics Part A, 149, 77–92 (2009).

15. M. Kar, N. B. Muluk, S. A. Bafaqeeh, and C. Cingi, Is it possible to define the ideal lips?, Acta Otorhinolaryngol Ital, 38, 67–72 (2018).

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