Читать книгу The Puppy Listener - Jan Fennell - Страница 8
ОглавлениеChapter 3 - Choosing your Dog
Before looking at the details of how to introduce a puppy into your home, it is important to discuss how you acquire a new dog. To my mind, there are only two sources from which we should buy dogs: respectable, responsible breeders and registered rescue centres or dogs’ homes.
There is, I know, a wide range of alternative sources – from pet shops and so-called licensed kennels, classified ads or even from a chance encounter with a seller in a pub or at a fairground.
The problem with buying from a stranger is obvious, in that you will have no comeback if anything goes wrong. A friend of mine once saw a batch of dogs for sale at a horse fair. There were no clues as to where these dogs had come from. Their owners had only one interest: making money. My friend was a soft touch and took pity on one dog in particular. During the next two years she spent more than £2,500 on vets bills, because it turned out the dog was riddled with worms and suffered from a variety of stomach problems. The crucial point here is that she had no way of seeking compensation from the people who sold her that dog. She didn’t even get a contact name.
This type of trade is sadly on the increase. The growth of so-called puppy farms, where dogs are bred in a factory-style environment, is something I abhor. Here in the UK the vast majority of pet dealers and licensed kennels are supplied by puppy farms, and owners who buy from them will often be allowed no more than 48 hours in which to return their dogs. How on earth is anyone supposed to decide whether they will be able to share their life with a dog in that space of time? Health problems may not have emerged within that period, and the dog’s true personality might be masked beneath its anxiety about the new surroundings.
It is my firm belief that if at all possible an owner should be able to meet – at least – the puppy’s mother before taking the dog away. This is something I will explain in more detail in a moment. You should be able to visit the breeder and see the puppy interacting with its mother and siblings. Be suspicious if you can’t; in puppy farms, mother and pups are separated early on. The absence of the mother may mean that the seller is a third party, whose motives are purely to do with money rather than the welfare of the dogs in their protection.
No reputable breeder or rescue centre would sell a dog without guaranteeing that the owner could return the animal to them if they were unable to keep the dog for whatever reason. The dog cannot lose under this arrangement. If it fits into a happy home it will enjoy a long and hopefully rewarding life there. If not, it will return to a place where its best interests are safeguarded.
Owners who leave themselves with no comeback are not able to return an unwanted dog. Many will, of course, ensure they are given good homes but, sadly, many more will not. And that is something I cannot condone.
BUYING A PUPPY
Falling in love with a puppy is the easiest thing in the world. We’ve all experienced the aaaaaaah factor, that moment when we’ve stared for the first time into the saucer-sized eyes of a cute young dog and gone hopelessly gooey. It’s for this reason that I recommend people begin their search for a puppy by steering clear of these charmers to begin with.
We know that owners are going to fall head over heels in love with the puppy. It’s a given. Far better for them to deal with the realities before beginning the romance. And the best way to do this is by first meeting the parents.
Producing a litter of puppies involves a collaboration between the human breeder and the dogs. The dogs deliver this new life into the world, but it is the former who must shoulder the ultimate responsibility. I passionately believe that the best way to assess whether a dog is coming from a good home is by getting to know both sets of ‘parents’ – human and canine.
Given that many breeders go to stud to begin their litters, it is more than likely that only the mother will be available. Her personality, temperament and general demeanour will reveal much. If you are able to meet the father as well, this will provide the clearest possible idea of the sort of dog its offspring is going to become.
Just as importantly, the attitude of the breeder is highly revealing. Is their home well-kept? How does the breeder behave towards the dogs? The extent to which the breeder interrogates all potential new owners is a good indication of the quality of the home. You should expect to be grilled by a good breeder. Personally, I insist on knowing as much as I can about anyone who wants to take one of my puppies into their home. It’s like an adoption society; reputable breeders – and registered rescue centres – are very careful about where they place the ‘children’ entrusted to their care. A good breeder is responsible for innocent young lives and they should want to know everything about the home into which they are considering releasing the puppy. They should always ask what the domestic situation is at home.
• Are there people around all day to look after the dog?
• Are there many small children in the home?
• Have they owned this type of dog – or indeed any dog – before?
• Have the prospective owners thought about whether the particular breed is right for their home?
The fact that the breeder, or rescue centre, asks these questions should be seen as a positive sign. If they are not asking these questions, they are probably more interested in making a sale than the dog’s welfare and should, therefore, be treated with caution.
By the same token, a good breeder should be open to questions from a potential owner. They should be willing to reveal anything and everything about the dog’s history and background – from the details of its parentage and its age, to its favourite food and toys. I’ve suggested a list of questions to ask below. Again, owners should be wary of anyone who is vague or unhappy about answering these questions.
Questions to ask a breeder or rescue centre
• What is the dog’s background?
• Who are its parents (if known)? Can you meet them?
• What age is the dog?
• Favourite foods?
• At what times is it fed, and what quantities of food?
• Favourite toys?
• What medical checks has it had?
• Has it been wormed?
• Has it had any vaccinations?
• Has it had its eye test to check for inherited conditions?
• Have any health problems been identified?
• Are there any procedures required by the breed standard, such as removal of a dew claw? If so, have they been done?
• Do its parents suffer from any hereditary problems that could have been passed on?
• Can you have the breed certification documents?
Potential owners should be particularly careful about checking for hereditary problems within some breeds. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels are prone to heart problems, for instance. Long-backed breeds like Basset Hounds and Dachshunds have a tendency to suffer from back pain and slipped discs. In German Shepherds and Labradors, potential buyers should look out for hip dysplasia, a genetic problem in which the ball and socket joint of the hip can be deformed or even non-existent. It is a condition that is extremely painful and ultimately crippling for dogs that are afflicted and something that good breeders monitor closely. Dogs are routinely x-rayed at the age of one and given a ‘hip score’ – which ranges from zero for perfect hips to 18 and higher, a mark which indicates the dog should not be used for breeding. Signs of hip dysplasia can manifest themselves even earlier than this, so it is wise to observe puppies for any tell-tale signs of discomfort in walking, such as ‘hopping’ when they walk.
So as to make informed and appropriate choices, potential owners are advised to research the breeds they are interested in. This is easily done through the Kennel Club or its equivalent organisation overseas and after that the various breed experts. The importance of this cannot be over-stressed. No one goes out to make a major purchase such as a new car or a house without researching the subject thoroughly. When they choose a dog, owners are introducing into the family a new member that will hopefully remain with them for 12 to 14 years. It is not something to be taken lightly.
BREEDS APART: WHAT DIFFERENT DOGS DEMAND FROM THEIR OWNERS
Hundreds of years of selective breeding by humans has produced a bewildering array of different dogs. And, for all their essential similarities, these dogs bring with them their own set of special needs. Some will need more exercise than others. Some will need much more grooming. Others will have a significantly shorter lifespan and will, therefore, incur the inevitable medical costs associated with old age that much sooner. Size is a factor too. The giant breeds need enough space in which to move and grow. Anyone considering acquiring a dog should take all these factors into consideration.
The demands of the different breeds fall into the following broad categories.
PHYSICAL DEMANDS
Some dogs have been bred to be more athletic and energetic than others. Gundogs or sporting dogs, for instance, will tend to demand a lot of exercise. These Springers, Pointers and Setters were, after all, bred to work on the hunt and are able to run for long periods during a normal hunting day. They also tend to love water and may be drawn to retrieve or chase birds, because of generations of breeding. Similarly, pastoral or herding breeds tend to be attracted to other species of animals and may instinctively try to herd them. Not every owner is going to have a flock of sheep for their Collie or German Shepherd to round up, but they should be prepared to give these dogs a proper outlet for their considerable energies. They need homes that are going to be up to the challenge of giving them plenty of exercise and play time.
At the other end of the scale, the toy dog group includes many breeds that were designed to provide little more than companionship and warmth, sometimes literally. Toy breeds such as the Chihuahua, Pekingese, Pomeranian and Maltese don’t need huge amounts of exercise.
SPATIAL DEMANDS
The size of a dog is a factor that needs to be taken into consideration. While toy dogs will not take up much space, large working dogs will fill almost any space they occupy. If they are active dogs as well, this could cause owners problems in a small or restrictive space. Everyone, of course, has the right to own the breed of their choice, but allowances should be made for the living space they require.
GROOMING DEMANDS
Dogs are naturally clean animals, and take a great deal of care of their condition. As a result, some breeds require next to no grooming. Smooth-coated dogs such as the Labrador Retriever or the Great Dane, for instance, are low maintenance compared to other breeds. By contrast, there are some breeds that have been bred purely for their look and consequently have exceedingly long, high-maintenance coats. Breeds that spring to mind here include Afghan Hounds, Spaniels, Old English Sheepdogs, the Bichon Frise and Poodle breeds. Dogs in the Terrier group can also require ‘hand stripping’ (see page 32) to keep their coats looking good.
DOGS WITH MEDICAL/LIFESPAN DEMANDS
The average life expectancy of different breeds varies enormously. Working breeds tend to be bigger dogs so they usually live shorter lives. Smaller toy dogs, on the other hand, tend to live to more advanced ages. Dogs with shorter lifespans are going to need medical care earlier than those with longer lifespans. Old age tends to be the period when the most visits to the vet are required. If the dog isn’t going to live much beyond seven years then, inevitably, this period is going to arrive sooner than if they live to 15 or beyond. They need owners who are willing to meet this challenge.
DIFFERENT BREEDS, DIFFERENT DEMANDS
The tables on the following pages illustrate the different demands of dogs within each of the seven main groups.
KEY
SIZE
S Small
M Medium
L Large
X Extra large
GROOMING AND EXERCISE
L Little needed
M Moderate needed
C Considerable needed
LIFESPAN
A under 9 years on average
B 9–15 years on average
C over 15 years on average
DIFFERENT BREEDS – DIFFERENT DEMANDS
THE DIFFERENT REQUIREMENTS OF THE MOST POPULAR BREEDS
GUNDOGS/SPORTING
TYPE OF DOG: English Setter
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: German Longhaired Pointer
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: German Shorthaired Pointer
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: German Wirehaired Pointer
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Gordon Setter
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Hungarian Vizsla
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Irish Red & White Setter
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Irish Setter
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Pointer
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Chesapeake Bay)
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Curly Coated)
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Flat Coated)
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Golden)
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Retriever (Labrador)
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (American Cocker)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Cocker)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (English Springer)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Field)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Irish Water)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Sussex)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Spaniel (Welsh Springer)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Spanish Water Dog
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Weimaraner
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
WORKING
TYPE OF DOG: Alaskan Malamute
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bernese Mountain Dog
SIZE: X
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: A
TYPE OF DOG: Bouvier Des Flandres
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Boxer
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bullmastiff
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Canadian Eskimo Dog
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Doberman
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: German Pinscher
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Giant Schnauzer
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Great Dane
SIZE: X
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: A
TYPE OF DOG: Mastiff
SIZE: X
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: A
TYPE OF DOG: Newfoundland
SIZE: X
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Rottweiler
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: St Bernard
SIZE: X
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: A
TYPE OF DOG: Siberian Husky
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TERRIER
TYPE OF DOG: Airedale
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Australian
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bedlington
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG
TYPE OF DOG: Border
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bull
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bull (Miniature)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Cairn
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Fox (Smooth)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Fox (Wire)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Irish
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Kerry Blue
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Lakeland
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Norfolk
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Parson Russell
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Scottish
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Skye
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Staffordshire Bull
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Welsh
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: West Highland White
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
HOUNDS
TYPE OF DOG: Afghan
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Basenji
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Basset Hound
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Beagle
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bloodhound
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: A
TYPE OF DOG: Borzoi
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Dachshund (Long or Wire Haired)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Dachshund (Miniature Long or Wire Haired)
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: C
TYPE OF DOG: Dachshund (Smooth Haired)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Dachshund (Miniature Smooth Haired)
SIZE: S
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: C
TYPE OF DOG: Norwegian Elkhound
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Foxhound
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Greyhound
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Irish Wolfhound
SIZE: X
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: A
TYPE OF DOG: Pharaoh Hound
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Rhodesian Ridgeback
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Saluki
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Whippet
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
PASTORAL/HERDING
TYPE OF DOG: Anatolian Shepherd
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Australian Cattle
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Australian Shepherd
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bearded Collie
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Border Collie
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Collie (Rough)
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Collie (Smooth)
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: German Shepherd
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Old English Sheepdog
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Pyrenean Mountain Dog
SIZE: X
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: A
TYPE OF DOG: Pyrenean Sheepdog
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Samoyed
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Shetland Sheepdog
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Welsh Corgi (Cardigan)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Welsh Corgi (Pembroke)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TOYS
TYPE OF DOG: Affen Pinscher
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Australian Silky Terrier
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bichon Frise
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Chihuahua (Long Coat)
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Chihuahua (Smooth Coat)
SIZE: S
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: English Toy Terrier (Black and Tan)
SIZE: S
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Maltese
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Miniature Pinscher
SIZE: S
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Papillon
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Pekingese
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Pomeranian
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Pug
SIZE: S
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Yorkshire Terrier
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
UTILITY
TYPE OF DOG: Akita
SIZE: L
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Boston Terrier
SIZE: S
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Bulldog
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: A
TYPE OF DOG: Chow Chow
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Dalmatian
SIZE: L
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: French Bulldog
SIZE: S
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: German Spitz (Klein)
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: German Spitz (Mittel)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Japanese Shiba Inu
SIZE: M
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Japanese Spitz
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Lhasa Apso
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: L
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Mexican Hairless
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Miniature Schnauzer
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Poodle (Miniature)
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: C
TYPE OF DOG: Poodle (Standard)
SIZE: L
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: C
LIFESPAN: C
TYPE OF DOG: Poodle (Toy)
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: C
TYPE OF DOG: Schnauzer
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Shar Pei
SIZE: M
GROOMING: L
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Shih Tzu
SIZE: S
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
TYPE OF DOG: Tibetan Spaniel
SIZE: S
GROOMING: M
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: C
TYPE OF DOG: Tibetan Terrier
SIZE: M
GROOMING: C
EXERCISE: M
LIFESPAN: B
CHOOSING A PUPPY
You’ve selected the breed of dog you want, you’ve found a good breeder or rescue centre, and now it’s time to pick the individual puppy you will take home with you. A good breeder will be able to brief you on the personalities of the puppies in a litter and will try to help you choose a dog that will suit your lifestyle. They don’t want to place an extrovert dog with an owner who is looking for a quiet companion; nor do they want to place a very docile, shy dog with someone who intends leading a very active outdoor life with that dog. The consequences of mismatching dogs and their owners can be awful.
Broad personality types are often apparent early on when the litter is first formed. There are the strong characters who dominate the best feeding positions when suckling from the mother’s teats, and there are the weaker members who have been knocked away from these positions and literally have to fight for their food – and their survival. But personality is a more complex matter than this and requires a little study. With the first part of their development well under way, the five or six week mark offers the perfect opportunity to conduct a simple personality test that will answer many of your questions.
There are all sorts of theories about how to conduct personality tests on dogs – many of them bordering on the barbaric. For instance, some people advocate pinching the dog to see how it reacts. I can think of nothing worse. The following three simple tests will give you all the information you need, without resorting to violence or cruelty.
TESTING BY EYE
The first clues about character come early on. By watching which puppies get to the teat first you can spot the dominant characters as well as the shy, retiring ones that get pushed to the back of the litter. This continues as the puppies emerge from under their mother’s wing. As they begin to play and interact, you may notice that one takes toys from another. Is there one that just sits there and watches while the others play? You can see that this dog is a thinker, one who will always weigh up its options in life before making its move.
There are signals in terms of body language too, with some dogs looking to assert themselves by placing their bodies over pups they consider to be subordinate. Of course, testing by eye isn’t going to tell you everything, so there are a couple of physical tests you can try to fill in the picture.
TESTING IN THE PALM OF THE HAND
This is designed to test the puppy’s reaction to being lifted. It will, of course, be used to this by now, but the way it reacts each time speaks volumes.
Lift the puppy off the ground. Place it in the palm of one hand (or two hands if it is a larger breed) and leave it there for ten seconds or so.
• If it goes limp in your hand, it is likely to be a more relaxed personality.
• If it starts to struggle immediately that indicates it is more stubborn and more likely to challenge you. It might also be a sign of a nervous dog.
• If it stays there for a little while then starts to struggle, that indicates a dog who thinks about things first before acting.
TESTING BY LYING THE PUPPY ON ITS BACK
This is designed to test the puppy’s reaction to being turned on its back. As with the palm of the hand test, it is not something you should do for long – ten seconds at the absolute maximum.
Lift the puppy and carefully cradle it in your arms. Placing a hand on each side, lift it up and turn it so it is lying on its back in your arms. Five distinct personality types will reveal themselves as follows.
The defiant one
Some puppies simply will not have it. The moment you turn them over they will immediately right themselves, and they will repeat the process every time you try. This dog is going to grow into a strong character, an alpha type. It will take strong, firm and clear leadership to keep it on the straight and narrow.
The resistance fighter
This one will fight you at first, but will eventually comply and lie on its back, under protest. This again is a dog that may present a few problems, but one who will respond to the right signals.
The thinker
Some puppies will initially lie down willingly. They will stay there for a couple of seconds then spring back upright. This indicates a dog that has weighed up the situation, come to a decision – that it doesn’t like this – and acted upon it. This is a dog that has a lot of courage and intelligence.
The cool customer
Some pups present no resistance whatsoever; they simply go limp and lie there. This is a chilled-out, laid-back individual. With the right guidance, this is going to be a relatively trouble-free dog.
The bundle of nerves
Some puppies will curl up in a ball almost foetally. This is a sure sign of nervousness in the dog. A dog that reacts this way is going to be prone to anxiety attacks when they hear loud noises or are faced with strange situations. In the worst cases, they may develop problems such as wetting themselves. By identifying them as nervous dogs, however, you can factor this personality into your life with the dog and act accordingly, hopefully avoiding problems.
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Choose a dog with a personality type that is going to fit with the lifestyle you want to introduce it to, whether that be noisy city life or a quiet country existence, and you’ll have a head start in getting it to adapt to its new home when it gets there.
CANINE COMPANIONSHIP
Dogs share the human’s sense of family values. In general, they enjoy company, whether human or canine, in the home. This sociable nature may be rooted in their ancient past, when they were forming the first communities with our ancient ancestors. But it may go deeper than that. Why else would man have chosen the wolf above any other creature to domesticate first? Did they see them as more companionable than any other animal? It is food for thought.
If you already have a dog at home and want to introduce a new one, it should be planned with care. Introducing an eight-week-old dog to an existing pack is a relatively straightforward process, but you might have more difficulty with a slightly older dog. Bringing a nine-month-old puppy into a home is the equivalent of introducing a hyperactive 12-year-old child. Older dogs, in particular, may not take kindly to their peace and quiet being disturbed.
There are other factors to consider too, as dogs can find it hard to read signals from breeds that are physically different from them. While a toy Poodle and an Irish Wolfhound will get along together eventually, there may be a great deal of friction because of the huge differences in their physical make-up before they settle into a routine together. There’s more about dogs’ abilities to understand each other’s signals on pages 172–8.
For all these reasons, it is advisable to introduce the new dog to its prospective pack as soon as possible. It would be ideal if you could take the existing dog or dogs to the breeder from where the eight-week-old puppy is coming and introduce them there. This has several obvious advantages. In territorial terms, it is neutral ground. The new arrival will also be amongst people who know and can control it in the event of problems. Most importantly of all, if after a few meetings there is clearly a high degree of friction between the old and new dogs, the potential owner will have the chance to think again.
There’s more on introducing your puppy to any other dogs at home on pages 48–50.
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The vast majority of owners take delivery of their puppy around the age of eight weeks. This is the ideal age for it to make the transition from its litter to a new human environment. As we have seen, a good breeder will have begun the process of weaning the puppy on to solid food and also toilet training it. They will have introduced the puppy to human company by handling and playing with it, and it should respond to its own name. It is now up to you to continue the good work.
