Читать книгу Mini Homestyle Indonesian Cooking - William W. Wongso - Страница 4

Basic Indonesian Ingredients

Banana leaves infuse a delicate flavor and aroma to foods and are used as wrappers when steaming or grilling dishes, or as little trays to hold food when cooking. Soften the leaves slightly in boiling water before use to prevent them from cracking when folded.

Candlenuts are waxy, straw-colored nuts that are ground to add texture and flavor to spice pastes and curry mixtures. Raw almonds, cashews or macadamia nuts may be substituted.

Cardamom pods are used to flavor curries and desserts—giving foods a heady, sweet scent. The fibrous, straw-colored pods enclose 15-20 pungent black seeds. The pods should be bruised lightly with a cleaver or a pestle when used whole. Do not substitute ground cardamom as it is virtually flavorless compared to the pods.

Chilies are indispensable in Indonesian cooking and many different varieties are used. The large, red finger-length chili is the most common and is moderately hot. Dried red chilies of this variety are ground to make chili flakes or ground red pepper. Tiny red, green or yellow-orange bird' seye chilies are very hot and are used in soups, curries and sauces. They are also available dried.

Chinese celery is much smaller and has thinner stems than the normal Western variety, with a very intense, parsley-like flavor. The leaves and sometimes the stems are added to soups, rice dishes and stir-fried vegetables. Use Italian parsley or celery leaves as a substitute.

Coconut cream or coconut milk is widely used in Asian sauces and desserts. While freshly pressed coconut milk has more flavor, coconut cream and milk are now available in cans and carton packets that are quick and convenient to use. Consistencies vary from brand to brand, so use your judgment and dilute with water as needed. Thick coconut milk is obtained from coconut cream by diluting it by half with water; and thin coconut milk is half again as diluted as thick milk.

Cumin seeds are pale brown to black and usually partnered with coriander seeds in basic spice mixes. They impart an intense earthy flavor to foods. They are often dry-roasted or flash-cooked in oil to intensify their flavor.

Dried shrimp paste, known by its Indonesian name, trasi or by its Malay term, belacan, is a dense mixture of fermented ground prawns that must be toasted before use—either wrapped in foil and dry-roasted or toasted over a gas flame on the back of a spoon.

Fennel seeds are larger and paler than cumin seeds, with a sweet flavor similar to anise. They add a sweet fragrance to Indian and Indonesian dishes.

Galangal is an aromatic root used throughout most of Southeast Asia, known as lengkuas in Singapore and Malaysia, as laos in Indonesia, and as kha in Thailand. The fresh root can be sliced and frozen for future use. It is available fresh in most large supermarkets.

Glass noodles, also known as cellophane noodles, tang hoon or bean threads, are thin transparent noodles made from mung bean flour. They are sold in dried form and must be soaked in warm water to soften before use. Use rice vermicelli as a substitute.

Kaffir lime leaves are used in soups and curries of Thai, Malay or Indonesian origin. They are also thinly sliced and used as a garnish. Buy them fresh or frozen or dried—the fresh or frozen leaves are much more fragrant.

Kangkung is a highly nutritious vegetable also known as water spinach or water convolvulus. Young shoots are served as part of a mixed platter of raw vegetables for dipping in hot sauces, while the leaves and tender tips are often stir-fried.

Kencur or aromatic ginger is sometimes mistakenly called "lesser galangal" although its correct English name is zedoary. This ginger-like root has a unique camphor flavor and should be used sparingly. Wash it and scrape off the skin before using. Dried sliced kencur or kencur powder can be used as a substitute. Soak dried slices in boiling water for approximately 30 minutes; use ½-l teaspoon of powder for 1-inch fresh root. There is no real substitute—if you cannot find it, add more galangal and ginger to the recipe.

Lemon basil (daun kemanggi) is a lemon-scented herb added to dishes at the last minute to keep its flavor, or used as a garnish. Use regular basil as a substitute, although the flavor is quite different.

Lemongrass is a highly aromatic herb stalk. The tough outer layers of the stem should be peeled away and only the tender inner portion of the thick end of the stems are used. Lemongrass is sold fresh in bundles in most supermarkets.

Nutmegs are the seeds of the nutmeg tree, covered with a lacy membrane called mace. Buy whole nutmegs and grate only when needed as ground nutmeg looses its flavor quickly. Use nutmeg powder if you cannot get whole nutmegs.

Pandanus leaves are the long, thin leaves of the pandanus or screwpine palm tree. They are usually tied in a knot and boiled to release their flavor. Use pandanus essence or vanilla essence in desserts if the fresh leaves are unavailable.

Tamarind is a large, brown tree pod with a sour pulp and hard, black seeds inside. Tamarind pulp is rich in vitamin C and has a tangy, acidic taste. It is used as a souring agent throughout the world. It can be bought fresh, dried, or in pulp form, and the pulp is commonly sold in compressed blocks, with the seeds removed. To make tamarind juice, mix 1 tablespoon of the dried tamarind pulp with 2 tablespoons of warm water, then mash well and strain to remove the seeds and fibers.

Turmeric root (kunyit) is similar to ginger but with a bright yellow color and a more pungent flavor. It has antiseptic and astringent qualities and stains everything permanently, so scrub your knife blade, hands and chopping board immediately after handling. Purchase fresh turmeric root as needed as the flavor fades after a few days. Substitute 1 teaspoon turmeric powder for 2½ cm (1 in) of the fresh root.

Turmeric leaves are the large leaves of the turmeric plant that are used in some parts of Asia for cooking. They are seldom available outside Asia. Look for them in Indian food shops.

Star anise is a dried brown flower with 8 woody petals, each with a shiny seed inside, which gives a flavor of cinnamon and aniseed. Use whole and remove from the dish before serving.

Sour carambola (belimbing) is a pale green acidic fruit that grows in clusters on a tree. A relative of the large, five-edged sweet starfruit, carambola is used whole or sliced to give a sour tang to some soups, dishes and sambals. Sour grapefruit or tamarind juice can be used as a substitute.

Salam leaves are subtly flavored and comes from a tree in the cassia family. The taste bears no resemblance whatsoever to the taste of a bay leaf, which is sometimes suggested as a substitute. If you cannot obtain dried salam leaf, omit altogether.

Sweet Indonesian soy sauce (kecap manis) is a thick soy sauce brewed with molasses and sugar. If you cannot obtain it, use dark black Chinese soy sauce and add brown sugar to sweeten it.

Bird's-eye Chili Sambal

8 steamed bird's-eye chilies

1 tablespoon lime juice or vinegar

1 tablespoon water

½ teaspoon salt

Combine all the ingredients in a processor and blend until smooth. Serve with Banjarese Chicken Soup (page 8).

Crispy Fried Shallots

4 tablespoons oil

6 shallots, thinly sliced

Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over medium heat and stir-fry the shallots for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden brown and crispy. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Keep immediately in a sealed jar to retain crispness.

Yields ¼ cup (50 g)

Preparation time: 5 mins

Cooking time: 3 mins

Candlenut Sambal

3 candlenuts

2-3 red finger-length chilies

5 bird's-eye chilies

1. Simmer both types of chilies in water for 2 minutes.

2. Gently fry the candlenuts in a dry pan until golden, then chop and place in a mortar or processor with the chilies. Grind until smooth and serve with Madurese Chicken Soup (page 24)

Fried Potato Patties (Perkedel)

500 g (1 lb) potatoes

2 tablespoons Crispy Fried

Shallots (see above)

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup oil

1. Place the potatoes in a pan with enough salted water to cover. Boil until tender. Drain, peel, and mash the potatoes together with the Crispy Fried Shallots and salt, then allow to cool slightly.

2. Shape into 8 patties, then pan-fry in oil until golden brown.

Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce

500 g (1 lb) chicken breast, cubed

24 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for several hours

Marinade

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons warm water

3 cloves garlic, peeled

4 shallots, peeled

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

¼ teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon salt

1½ tablespoons oil

Peanut Sauce

2 teaspoons oil

2-3 bird's-eye chilies

3 red finger-length chilies

3 cloves garlic, minced

200 g (1¹/₃ cups) unsalted peanuts, dry-roasted and skinned

½ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons palm sugar or brown sugar

250 ml (1 cup) hot water

Sweet Soy Dip

2 teaspoons oil

90 ml (¹/₃ cup) sweet Indonesian soy sauce

1 red finger-length chili, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice

1 To make the Marinade, soak the tamarind pulp in the warm water for 5 minutes. Mash with the fingers and strain to obtain juice. Grind the garlic, shallots, coriander seeds, cumin, salt and tamarind juice to a smooth paste in a blender. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the oil. Add the cubed chicken, mix well and set aside to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

2 To prepare the Peanut Sauce, heat the oil in a small saucepan. Cook the chilies and garlic over low to medium heat, stirring frequently until soft, about 5 minutes. Put into a food processor with the peanuts salt and palm sugar or brown sugar, and process briefly so that the peanuts are still chunky. Add the hot water and process again briefly to make a thick sauce. Transfer to a serving bowl.

3 To prepare the Sweet Soy Dip, combine the ingredients in a bowl and set aside.

4 Thread 4 to 5 chicken cubes onto each skewer. Grill under a broiler or over a barbecue grill until golden brown on both sides and cooked, about 5 minutes. Serve with dipping bowls of the Peanut Sauce and Sweet Soy Dip.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 35-40 mins

Cooking time: 20 mins

Grilled Prawn Satays (Sate Udang)

700 g (1½ lbs) large fresh prawns, peeled and deveined, tails intact

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

Bamboo skewers, soaked in water

Spice Paste

4 candlenuts, dry roasted until golden brown

3-4 red finger-length chilies

1 kaffir lime leaf, sliced

1 cm (½ in) aromatic ginger (kencur) or galangal, peeled and sliced

5 shallots, peeled

3 cloves garlic, peeled

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste, toasted

2 teaspoons palm sugar or dark brown sugar

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons oil

¼ cup (60 ml) thick coconut milk

1 Place the peeled prawns in a bowl, toss with the lime juice and set aside to marinate.

2 To make the Spice Paste, grind the candlenuts in a spice grinder or blender briefly until coarsely ground. Add the chilies, lime leaves, aromatic ginger, shallots, garlic, shrimp paste, palm sugar or brown sugar and salt, then process to a smooth paste (add a little of the oil if needed to keep the mixture turning).

3 Heat the oil in a small pan and add the Spice Paste. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture is fragrant, 4-5 minutes. Add the coconut milk and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Simmer 2 minutes, then transfer to a bowl to cool.

4 When cool, add the prawns and toss to coat well. Set aside to marinate for at least 30 minutes. Thread 2 to 3 prawns onto each bamboo skewer.

5 Barbecue or grill the prawns for 2 minutes on each side, until lightly browned. Serve hot.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 25 mins

Marinating time: 30 mins

Cooking time: 15 mins

Balinese Steamed Chicken Parcels (Turn Ayam)

700 g (1 ½ lbs) chicken breast, sliced into strips

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons warm water

2 tablespoons plus

2 teaspoons oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1-2 red finger-length chilies, thinly sliced

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

½ teaspoon salt

6-8 salam leaves or 3 sprigs lemon basil

3 banana leaf sheets, each about 25 x 45 cm (10 x 18 in), softened in hot water for wrapping (see page 12)

Seasoning Paste

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

4 candlenuts

1-2 red finger-length chilies

4 shallots, peeled

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 stalk lemongrass, tender inner part of bottom third only, sliced

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

2½ cm (1 in) fresh galangal or ginger root, peeled and sliced

1½ teaspoons palm sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 To prepare the Seasoning Paste, dry-fry the coriander seeds, peppercorns and candlenuts in a skillet over low heat for 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Remove from the pan and grind to a powder in a spice grinder. Add all the other Seasoning Paste ingredients. Process until finely ground, adding a little oil if needed to keep the mixture turning.

2 Soak the tamarind pulp in the warm water for 5 minutes. Mash with the fingers and strain to obtain juice, then set aside.

3 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a wok. Add the Seasoning Paste and stir-fry over medium heat until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool.