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PREFACE.

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So much has been written of late years about the Australian colonies, that it may seem at first sight that there is nothing new left to write about.

But all the works which I have seen, though of far higher pretensions than the little volume I venture to submit to the public, still appear to me to leave something untold.

While they contain a large amount of information relative to Australia interesting and valuable to the statesman, the man of science, the merchant, and the emigrant, still, perhaps, they give but little notion of everyday life in the colonies, as it would appear from a lady's point of view.

I am aware that these recollections of a fifteen months' residence in Australia do but little towards supplying the want referred to; still, if the perusal of these pages has the effect of checking the over-sanguine expectations of some of my lady readers, and of removing the over-timid apprehensions of others, I shall feel that this record of my own experience has not been without its use.

Departure from England—Doubts and fears—Making the best of things— and regarding the choice of a stern cabin—Fellow-passengers—Sea unfavourable to development of more pleasing features of character—The Line—A homeward bound ship—Off the Cape—Fishing for sea birds—A shark—Phosphorescent balls—Land ahead—Pilot aboard—Sydney harbour—First impressions of the natives—Arrived at last. First impressions of Sydney—Half-disappointed—The streets—Irregular style of building—Scarcity of private houses—Hyde Park—Its surroundings—A colonial notability—Another—The value of a character—A of colonial architecture—St. James's Church—Its neighbours—Legislative Council Chambers—An odious comparison—Newspapers—Literary taste in the colony—More about the streets—Government gardens—Flower shows—Gardening "doesn't pay"—Government House—A stranger's yearning for home. The suburbs of Sydney—View of the harbour from Paddington—No place like home—The drives round Sydney— an omnibus—A bouquet of wild flowers—Flowering shrubs—Forest trees—The bush—Varieties of a —Snakes—Botany Road—Botany Bay—The menagerie—Cook's River—New Town. The climate of New South Wales—Variations of temperature—Australian children—Their precocity in every respect—Resemblance to Americans—Sydney society—Beadledom at the antipodes—The squatters—The Sydney season—Balls and pic-nics—Fish—Beauties of the Harbour—The Paramatta River—Oranges and orange groves—The Town of Paramatta—Traditions of the Female Factory. Colonial government in the early days—Police regulations—The value of a passport—An awkward predicament—The Governor's prerogatives—A model editor—Emigrants and emancipists—The first constitutional council—Playing at "Parliament"—Legislating in earnest—Responsible government—New constitutions—Colonial munificence—A Brummagem aristocracy—The British country gentlemen—The Australian legislator. Starting for the interior—Travelling equipment—Preparations for camping out—Our party— and for —Not so pleasant during a flood—The low countries—Fleeing to the tree tops—Best months for travelling—The town of Newcastle—Hunter's River—The coal districts—Carrying coals thereto—Morpeth—A bad start—The town of Maitland—Our first encampment—The of the bush—The laughing jackass—Common bush birds. Off at last—Roads of the interior—A thunderstorm—Making the best of things—Division of labour—Our order of march—Harper's Hill—Native indigo—Australian daisy—Refractory horses—Learning to be a whip—Town of Singleton—A catacomb of trees—Glenny's Creek—Bush fare—Edible birds and beasts—Bushrangers—Bush manners and travellers' tales—Truth stranger than fiction. The town of Muswellbrook—A hurricane—Aberdeen—Scone and its neighbourhood—Crossing the Waldron Ranges—Murrurundi—The backbone of Australia—The squatters' barrier—A canine comparison—Eastern and western waters—Liverpool Plains—A dismal anniversary—The mirage—Myal tree—Tamworth—The river Namoi—A stock-keeper's cottage—Bush hospitality—The tree lizard—Unpleasant visitors—The plague of insects. Barraba—Going ahead—Bell's Mountain—The Slaty Gully— a difficulty—The Bingera Diggings—A panorama of hills—Crossing the Ranges by night—A midnight bivouac—The Bundarra—Keera—An early arrival—A squatter's cottage—Its surroundings—A station and its belongings—The "shepherd's friend"—Cultivation of grain—Carriers at a premium. Sheep shearing—The washpool—An ancient custom—Shearers and their habits—Scarcity of servants—Convict days—Chinese servants—A horrid story—Chinese emigration——Cattle—An Australian stock-keeper—A hunt after a —Agriculture in the squatting districts—The vine—Fruit—Primitive wine making—Qualifications for a bush housekeeper. The Blacks' camp—Frequent change of quarters— spoken by them—Their aversion to labour—Love of hunting—Varieties of game—Arts of the chase—Their modes of cooking—Skin cloaks—The Bunya-bunya or Australian bread-fruit—Native honey—Stingless bees—Native toilette—A ball Spurgeon Corroborees and Boroes. Native superstitions—A burial place—Different modes of disposing of the dead—Notions of a future state—Condition of their women—A matrimonial dispute—Native children—Infanticide—Half-castes—Nurses and washerwomen—"Black Charlie"—An awkward predicament—A sad fate—Both sides of the question—Calling things by right names. Starting for a day of kangaroo hunting—A —Advantages of a thick skull—The Tea free—Table land—Kangaroos in sight—An unsuccessful burst—An "Old Man"—A formidable weapon—The Dingo—A theory—The kangaroo rat—The Bandicoot—The Rock Wallaby—River fishing—The —The Bunyip—A flood—Flies and mosquitoes—Varieties of blight—Ophthalmia—Fifty miles from a doctor—Visitors—Neighbours—Homeward ho! A false start—A fair one—Foul weather—A shepherd's hut—Bush tea—The Rocky River—The Red Gum tree—Weather bound—The Rocky River diggings—Gold finding—Alluvial diggings—Quartz crushing—A nugget—"All is not gold that glitters"—A friend in need. Salisbury Court—A squatter's residence—Lost horses—Ophthalmia—The Moonboye Range—Tamworth—An unpleasant situation—The Burning Mountain—Flood-bound—Another upset—Fording the river—A Canadian traveller's tale—Driving a road—A "Slough of Despond "—The last of the bogs—Megaethon—A philological reason. Anticipations—The Bush near Sydney—The roads again—The flood on the Hunter of 1857—The Liverpool Railway—A roadside inn—Appin—More rain—Retracing our steps—An unpleasant habit—Illawarra—The Cabbage Tree Palm—The Garden of Australia—A case of plants—Our feathered and four-footed fellow-passengers—Preparing to re-embark. Confined quarters—Baby provender—A model captain—Homoeopathy and sea-sickness—Port of Melbourne—Its suburbs—The city—Fortunate purchasers—"What is in a name?"—The rival queens of the South—Melbourne streets—An argument for Bloomerism—Colonial gold ornaments—The Yarra Yarra—A sound of —The Botanical Gardens—Waterfowl—A natural preserve—Canvas Town—The Houses of Parliament—A senator in trouble—The land to make money in—The coast of Western Australia—Albany—A trip ashore. Our last look of Australia—A fishy fantasy—The order of the day on shipboard—Point de Galle—Another trip ashore—The Cinnamon Gardens—Re-embarking—Aden—A naval battle—The natives—Divers—The Red Sea—A midnight alarm—On the rocks—All hands at the pumps—An unpleasant alternative—Preparing to take to the boats—Ground sharks—Afloat again—Noxious gases—Nubian natives—Coral islands—"Passing on his way"—News from Jeddah—Off again—"Zeal for the service"—Suez—Last adieus—A comparison—Transit through Egypt—Malta—Home, sweet home!

My Experiences in Australia.

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