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Fig. 11.—A Bench-hook.

You will need

A Mitre-box for cutting mitres in large work, and this may be made as shown in Fig. 12. Cut two pieces of seven-eighths inch maple, or other hard wood, twenty inches long by six inches wide, and one piece twenty inches long by four inches wide. Nail the six-inch pieces to the edges of the four-inch piece as shown in the drawing, after which you are ready to cut the mitres. These should be laid out similar to those on the bench-hook, by means of the mitred try-square or the bevel. With the blade of the try-square or bevel extending across the top edges of the side-pieces, mark off forty-five degree lines at A and B, and a ninety degree line at C, after which square the lines down both inner and outer face of the side-pieces. When the lines have been accurately drawn, it is a simple matter to make the kerfs, if you have had any practice in sawing and can keep to a line.

Fig. 12.—A Mitre-box.

No matter how skilful a carpenter is with his tools, he generally depends upon his mitre-box in making mitres, for not only accuracy is obtained by its use, but time is also saved. In using one be careful not to let the saw cut into the sides of the kerfs, or the box will soon be rendered useless for making accurate mitres.

Before putting the finish upon a piece of work, the wood should be thoroughly sand-papered. In many cases certain portions cannot be reached by the hand, and so

A Sand-paper Block similar to Fig. 13 should be made. Cut a block of wood five inches long, two and one-half inches wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick. Then place it in the vise, and bevel one end and round the other as shown in the drawing. An inch and one-half from each end cut "rabbets" one inch wide across the block, and make two blocks to fit them. When this has been done, cut a strip of sand-paper two and one-half inches wide and stretch it around the block, holding it in place by driving the small blocks into the rabbets. You will find this sand-paper block very handy, as some portion of it can be got into almost every corner you will ever have occasion to sand-paper. The paper may be quickly replaced with a fresh piece when worn out.

Fig. 13.—Sand-paper Block.

A Strop for putting keen edges on tools may be made out of a block of wood, with a piece of shoe-leather, or section of an old razor-strop, glued to one side of it.

A Plumb, similar to Fig. 14, is a handy article to have for outdoor work, such as erecting posts in perpendicular positions. You will have need of it in putting up such buildings as the back-yard club-house, the log-cabin, and the erection of apparatus for the outdoor gymnasium, the construction of which will be found in following chapters.

It consists of a stick, the sides of which have been planed up true and parallel, with a notch in one end and a cord with a weight attached fastened to the other end. The notch should be cut in the exact centre of the end of the stick, and the nail placed in the other end directly in line with the centre of the notch. An iron nut, or some such weight, should be attached to the lower end of the cord.

By placing this stick at the side of an object, you can determine whether or not it is plumb by the position of the string, which should hang in the centre of the notch when the object is plumb. The length of the stick may be made to suit the size of the work it is to be used upon. Four or five feet is a good length for ordinary outside work.

Fig. 14.

In purchasing Tools for your workshop it is not advisable to buy them in chests, for they are almost always made of cheap material, and poor tools are of no use to the boy who intends to do good work. It is a much better plan to buy a few tools at a time, getting a good quality of steel, and to gradually increase your outfit as your money permits. Then if you really want a chest you can make it yourself. A hatchet, hammer, saw, plane, chisel, jack-knife, bit and bit-stock, screw-driver, and square are the principal tools you will require, and need be all you have to start out with. Others may be got as you have need of them, and may be selected from the following list, which includes probably all the tools a boy would ever have occasion to use.

LIST OF TOOLS FROM WHICH TO MAKE YOUR SELECTIONS

1 14-inch Jack-plane.

1 18-inch Fore-plane.

1 9-inch Smoothing-plane.

1 22-inch Rip-saw.

1 20-inch Cross-cut saw.

1 12-inch Back-saw.

1 12-inch Compass-saw.

1 Gig- or Bracket-saw.

1 Ratchet Brace.

5 Auger-bits,¼-inch,⅜-inch,½-inch,¾-inch, and 1-inch.

1 Expansive-bit.

Several Gimlet Bits.

1 Screw-driver Bit.

1 Countersink.

1 Brad-awl.

2 Hand Gimlets.

1 Automatic-drill.

4 Chisels,¼-inch,½-inch,¾-inch, and 1-inch.

2 Gouges,⅜-inch and ¾-inch.

1 Draw-knife.

1 Jack-knife.

1 Hatchet.

1 Hammer.

1 Tack Hammer.

1 Mallet.

2 Nail-sets (large and small).

1 Hand Screw-driver.

1 Wood Rasp.

1 Metal File.

1 Pair Cutting Nippers.

1 Pair Pincers.

1 Grind-stone.

1 Oil-stone and oil-can.

1 Strop.

1 2-foot Folding Rule.

1 Large Steel Square.

1 7-inch Try-square.

1 Bevel.

1 Marking-gauge.

1 Compass.

The proper care and handling of these tools is fully described and illustrated in the following chapter. These directions should be carefully read before you attempt to use the tools, especially the edge tools.

A Cabinet will be found much better for an outfit of tools than a tool-chest, as it can be more easily got at than a chest, where it is necessary to lift several trays before you can reach a tool which has been put in the bottom.

Fig. 15.—Tool-cabinet.

The cabinet shown in Fig. 15 is made out of a box about three feet long, two feet wide, and nine inches deep. Make a door from the box-cover, fastening the boards together by means of two battens placed at the top and bottom (see illustration). Nail a cleat on each side of the cabinet six inches from the bottom, and make a shelf to fit upon them.

Racks for Bits and Chisels should be made similar to Fig. 16, and fastened side by side to the inside of the cabinet.

Cut a strip of wood about the size of the battens, and make two slots in it, one for the end of the saw to fit in and the other for the blade of the try-square (see Fig. 15). This strip is fastened to the cabinet door a few inches above the bottom batten.

Fig. 16.—Bit and Chisel Racks.

Hang up the other tools on brass hooks.

After completing the cabinet, paint it inside and out, and fasten either a hook or lock to the door.

When this cabinet becomes too small for your increase in tools, you can keep those you use the most in it, and make

Another Cabinet for the special and less used tools. Either screw the cabinets to the wall or support them upon brackets.

Racks may be made for any tools you wish to hang on the wall. A piece of grooved siding nailed above the bench will do nicely for the large square.

When you do outside work you will want something in which to carry such tools as will be required to complete the job.

Fig. 17.—A Carpenter's Carrying-box.

A Carpenter's Carrying-box should be made. Such a box is shown in Fig. 17. The box should be about twenty-seven inches long to accommodate the saws, and it would be well to make the width eight inches and the height sixteen inches. First prepare the end-pieces, making them six by sixteen inches and rounding the tops with the compass-saw, as shown in the illustration. Then cut a board twenty-five inches long by six inches wide for the bottom and nail the end-pieces to the ends of it. Make the side-pieces twenty-seven by eight inches, and nail them to the end-pieces and to the edges of the bottom board. The handle consists of a broom-stick fitted into holes bored near the tops of the end-pieces.

This box should be used for tools only, and not have nails, screws, and bolts mixed up with them, for these supplies should be kept in a special

Nail-box, with compartments for the different sizes of nails, screws, hooks, screw-eyes, hinges, etc. One of the best kinds of boxes for this purpose is a knife-box such as can be bought for ten or fifteen cents. This is divided in two and has a handle attached (see Fig. 18). The two compartments should be sub-divided into smaller boxes, either with pieces of cigar-boxes, or with pieces of tin bent at the ends and fastened to the sides of the box, as shown in the illustration.

Fig. 18.—Nail-box.

Supplies of nails, brads, etc., should be kept in cans and cigar-boxes of different sizes, and it is a good idea to letter these receptacles that you may be able to put your hands upon what you want without having to hunt for it.

Shelves will be handy to keep paint-cans and these boxes on.

Workshop Clothes.—Old clothes should be worn in the shop, as carpenter work is rather hard upon them, especially the trousers. Better than these is a pair of overalls and perhaps a jumper. They are easy to work in and wear better than anything else.

A Few Hooks should be placed on the wall for hats and coats, and for your working clothes, if you change them in the shop before and after work.

To prevent your tools from being carried off, and your work from being disturbed, it is advisable to have a lock upon the door and keep your shop locked up when you are away.

To avoid danger of fire, keep combustible articles, such as oily waste and rags, in covered tin cans, and do not allow shavings and rubbish to accumulate.