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SPINNING

THERE is so much poetry, romance, and history associated with the distaff and spindle, and later with the old spinning-wheel, that we have looked upon them with a feeling almost of awe, certainly with a reverence for the gentle hands that spun so industriously generations ago. But it has now occurred to us that we too may set the wheel a-humming, taking up with enthusiastic eagerness the work laid down by our great-grandmothers so many years ago. The song of even the athletic girl will soon be like Martha's when she sings in the market-place:

"I can spin, sir,"

and the wheel will no longer be set aside as a relic of an industry past and gone.

All the old handicrafts are coming back again, and ere long we shall be as proud as the maids in Revolutionary times of our hand-spun and hand-woven fabrics. To be able to spin and weave is to be accomplished in the newest as well as the oldest of household arts.

Fig. 1.—The slender rod tied at the lower end.

Fig. 2.—The looped upper end of the rod.

Is the old spinning-wheel in the attic, neglected and covered with dust, or in the parlor, decked in all its bravery of blue ribbons and snowy flax? Bring it out, wherever it may be, and for the first time in many years it shall buzz and whirr, while a girl's slender fingers part the flax and a girl's light foot rests upon the treadle. Look well to

The Wheel

and see that none of its parts are missing. There must be the bench, of course, with its treadle and wheel, then the slender rod which is tied loosely at the lower end to the cross-piece of the treadle (Fig. 1), and caught at the looped upper end to the little, curved-metal crank that extends at right angles from one end of the wheel's axle (Fig. 2).

Fig. 3.—A little peg slipped through two holes.

Fig. 4.—The leather rings.

The two slanting uprights which hold the wheel in place are slotted at the upper ends, and in these slots rests the axle. A little peg, slipped through two holes in one of the uprights, keeps the axle from slipping out of place (Fig. 3).

The frame that holds

The Spindle

belongs in the position shown in the illustration of the spinning-wheel. By turning the handle that extends out from the upper end of the bench this frame may be moved slightly forward or backward when it is necessary to loosen or tighten the band on the wheel.

Fig. 5.—One ring in each upright.

Fig. 6.—The spindle.

In the two uprights of the spindle-frame there must be leather rings like Fig. 4, one ring in each upright. The narrow strip extending outward from the ring is pushed through the hole in the upright, and the edge of the ring fitted into the little grooves just above and below one of the holes (Fig. 5). These two leather rings hold the ends of the spindle, which can be easily taken out and put in by bending one of the rings backward or slightly turning one of the uprights. Fig. 6 shows the spindle with the spool, or bobbin, and the small, double-grooved wheel. The spindle proper is simply the metal rod and horseshoe-shaped piece of wood with its two rows of little hooks or teeth. Besides the wheel and spindle there must be

The Distaff

and the arm that holds it. The arm is an upright with a rod extending out at right angles from the upper end. The lower end of the upright is slipped into a hole at one corner of the highest part of the bench.

Fig. 7.—The tip of your Christmas tree for a distaff.

Fig. 8.—Bring the four branches up and tie at the top.

The distaff, which the mountaineers of Kentucky call the "rock," is a thing you can make for yourself if your wheel happens to have lost its own. Many are cut from the top points of pine-trees which grow like Fig. 7, and dogwood also is sometimes used. The tip of your Christmas tree will be just the thing. Strip off the bark, bring the four branches up, and tie at the top to the middle stem (Fig. 8). Let the lower end of the stem extend about four inches below the branches and whittle it down to fit in the hole in the distaff-arm.

These are all the parts of the spinning-wheel, but before you can "see the wheels go round" every piece of metal must be

Thoroughly Cleaned

and freed from rust. Rub first with kerosene oil and then with the finest emery paper. Be very careful in polishing the teeth that you do not bend or break them, as it will not be easy to have them replaced. In fact, it is difficult to replace any part of the wheel, and though it has lasted several generations, careless handling may put it past repair.

Fig. 9.—Proper size of cord for wheel band.

When the cleaning is finished, grease with lard the parts where there is any friction. The slots that hold the axle, the spindle-stem, and the metal arm, where the treadle-rod rests upon it, all need lubricating.

The best

Band for the Wheel

is hand spun, but at present it is possible to obtain them only of old-fashioned spinners who make their own bands. You can, however, make a band of cotton cord, such as is used for cording dresses. Fig. 9 gives the exact size. The length of cord for a wheel measuring eighteen and a half inches in diameter is about ten feet five inches. This allows for a lap of one inch at the joint. Sew together with silk, wrapping and sewing until the joint is almost invisible.

Fig. 10.—Make a double loop.

Fig. 11.—The band will cross at the bottom.

To Adjust the Band

loop it together, making it double (Fig. 10), lift the wheel from the sockets, and slip the band over it. Fit one part of the band into one of the grooves of the wheel, the other part into the other groove, allowing it to cross at the bottom (Letter B, Fig. 11). Take the spindle from its frame and fit the bands into the groove in the end of the bobbin (Letter C, Fig. 6) and into the first groove in the small wheel (Letter D, Fig. 6).

The Flax

may be obtained from any linen-thread factory and can be bought by the pound or half-pound. It is graded by color, the darkest being the cheapest and the whitest the most expensive. For practice-work the cheapest is as good as the more expensive. When you have learned to spin a fine, even thread you may choose the color in reference to the article you intend to make.

The spinning-wheel.

Open your hank of flax, take part of it, and spread thinly over the distaff, wrapping it around and around. Put on several layers, each almost as thin as a spider-web, extending it out widely and smoothly each time.

You may think the ribbon tied on the distaff of your parlor wheel is merely for ornament, but it is not. The bands hold the flax in place while it is being spun, and a crisp, dainty, pretty-colored ribbon is just as useful for the purpose as one that is old and faded, and it is far prettier to look upon. Wrap the ribbon around the flax on the distaff, beginning at the bottom, cross it, and tie as shown in illustration of the spinning-wheel.

Though everything is ready, before attempting to spin,

Practice,

simply working the treadle until you can manage that part of the work mechanically and give your whole attention to your hands.

It seems a simple thing to work the treadle, but you will find that without previous practice you will forget to make your foot go in the absorbing interest of getting the flax ready to run on the spindle. Curb your impatience a little while therefore, and resolutely turn the distaff, with its pretty load, away from you. Place one foot on the treadle, give the large wheel a turn to the right, or away from the spindle, and try to keep a steady, even motion with your foot. The jerks caused by uneven pedalling will always break the thread, so you must learn to make the wheel turn smoothly and easily, without hurry and without stopping. Some spinners place only the toe of the foot on the treadle, others rest on it the heel also; it matters little which method you adopt so long as the wheel turns evenly. When you are quite satisfied that you can keep the wheel going without giving it a thought you may begin

To Spin.

From the lowest ends of the flax draw down several strands and twist them with your fingers into a thread long enough to reach easily the bobbin on the spindle. Pass the end of the thread through the hole in the end of the spindle nearest to you (Letter A, Fig. 6), carry it across and over the upper row of teeth and tie to the bobbin (Fig. 6). Start your wheel going, and, forgetting the action of your foot, give your undivided attention to drawing out the flax. Hold the strands lightly with your left hand and with your right keep constantly pulling them down and at the same time twisting them slightly. See illustration on first page. All this time you must keep the flax from matting and tangling and the twist from running up into the mass of flax on the distaff. Only practice will make perfect in this work, though the knack may come suddenly and you will wonder at your first clumsy attempts. The little fluster and excitement one feels in beginning and the hurry to get the flax into shape for the spindle is a drawback that practice will also overcome.

When the Thread Breaks,

as it will again and again at first, thread your spindle as before, tie the new thread to the broken end and begin once more. A better way to mend the thread when you are really doing good work is to unwind a little from the bobbin, thread it backward through the spindle, bring the end up to meet the end from the distaff, and let the two lap three or four inches; then moisten your fingers and twist the threads together, making one thread again.

Moistening the Fingers

occasionally is a good thing while twisting, as it makes a smoother thread. In the old days the spinner kept a cocoa-nut-shell, filled with water, tied to the lower part of the spindle-frame, into which she daintily dipped the tips of her fingers when necessary. A finger-bowl or cup of water near by will answer the same purpose.

The little girl and the little loom.