Читать книгу Skye's Cuillin Ridge Traverse - Adrian Trendall - Страница 11
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
The very special brand of ridge scrambling found here can have few equals in the whole world.
Gordon Stainforth, author of 'The Cuillin'
Skye’s Cuillin Ridge has been described as ‘the holy grail of British scrambling’ (British Mountaineering Council) and ‘the jewel in the crown of Scottish mountaineering’ (Jamie Andrew – a climber, motivational speaker and quadruple amputee).
A well-known climbing venue since the late 1890s, people soon began to wonder if a traverse of the ridge was possible in a single outing. It wasn’t until 10 June 1911 that Leslie Shadbolt and Alastair McLaren completed the first traverse of the Cuillin Ridge – and they did it in a day. Their time of 12 hours and 18 minutes from first to last summit is a time that many modern teams would be only too pleased with. Previously it had been thought impossible, that it would be ‘a feat of the gods’ and take perhaps three days or even longer.
Shadbolt referred to the traverse as ‘a great day’ and later recalled that ‘we thought we might try the traverse of all the peaks, an expedition about which there had been a good deal of speculation’. Those first traversers were well ahead of their day with the route not being repeated until 1920. The route taken has become known as The Great Traverse and over the years the record has fallen to a remarkable 2 hours 59 minutes and 22 seconds. This speedy traverse was set by Finlay Wild, a runner and climber of repute.
If you are reading this, then the Cuillin Ridge probably needs no introduction but the below statistics flesh out the nature of the beast.
| Section | Distance and ascent | Terrain | Time |
| Approach | 7km and 900m of ascent | Rough walking | 3 hours |
| Ridge | 12km and 3000m of ascent | Scrambling to grade 3, technical climbing to Severe and 3 abseils or down climbs | 10–15 hours |
| Walk out | 6km and 900m of descent | 300m of scrambling and rough walking | 3 hours |
Traversing the ridge can be a delectable experience as much of it is on the cusp between climbing and walking thus allowing for fast, exhilarating progress unimpeded by ropes or pitching. Much of the ridge is tinged with an air of seriousness where a slip could prove fatal, and the height gain alone puts it in the league of the North Face of the Eiger. But when you throw in the set piece technical climbs – such as the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pinn) and the Thearlaich Dubh Gap (T-D Gap) – several abseils and yet more scrambling, it adds up to a magical journey in sensational situations. The technical climbing grades might alarm walkers but shouldn’t set off too many alarms for competent climbers.
Climbers ascending to N Top of Bidein (Section 8)
It is no coincidence that the Cuillin Ridge is the first route in Ken Wilson’s uber tick-list, coffee table book, Classic Rock. A ridge of 900m mountains rising straight out of the vibrant Hebridean seas, it has attracted climbers and walkers for generations. The 11 Munros, miles of knife-edge scrambling and iconic climbs help explain its attraction as does the obvious linear nature of the challenge and the continuously interesting, high-quality scrambling and climbing.
Although a huge challenge, it is achievable by many climbers and here lies much of its appeal. The climbing may be long but it is never too hard or sustained. With preparation and practice, a helping of luck, a good level of fitness and the right mental attitude, the ridge is within the grasp of many climbers. For many, it is a dream route but with a little effort (well, quite a lot, actually) it is one that can become a reality. Although Alpine-like in length and quality, the ridge is surprisingly accessible and as such not too committing with many variations, bypasses and escape routes back to civilisation. Indeed, ease of escape helps to explain the high failure rate since it is all too easy to throw in the towel at the first sign of difficulty and be back in the pub in a few hours.
For many climbers, traversing the ridge may well be their one and only visit to Skye but many return again and again to delve into the complexities of the ridge. The ‘Tolkienesque’ landscape with sharp ridges and towering cliffs, mist shrouded peaks and extinct volcanos is unique. Some people strike lucky and succeed in their first attempt but, for the majority, it requires the conjunction of the right partner, good weather, physical fitness and mental strength to produce a winning formula. Cuillin experts reckon that perhaps only 10% of climbers succeed on their first attempt.
The Cuillin Ridge seems to be a never-ending source of interest. In 2019, if you typed ‘Cuillin Ridge’ into Google, you’d get 93,000 results; and if you searched UK Climbing’s forums, you’d find more than 350 separate threads on the subject as people try to find answers to their questions about logistics, rope length and gear lists. Despite such a wealth of available information, until now there hasn’t been a single universal source of information about the ridge. This guide collates the author’s years of experience and information from numerous different sources into a single easy-to-use volume, in order to help bring the challenge of traversing the ridge within reach of many climbers, scramblers and walkers.
Shadbolt wrote an account for the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal entitled The Cuillin Main Ridge and stated that ‘in common with…most people who have climbed in the Cuillins (sic), I have always looked with longing eyes at the great stretch of narrow ridge and speculated on the possibility of making a continuous climb along it from end to end in one day’. Not everyone can, or will want to do it in one day, but, like Shadbolt, you ‘can endeavour to translate the dreams of the winter fireside into the realms of accomplished action’.
A classy descent of Pinnacle Ridge to top a perfect ridge in a day
Preparation and training
Being well prepared is a key ingredient of a successful traverse. Good planning and preparation will increase your chances exponentially.
Partner
Partner selection is crucial and any incompatibility will only be exacerbated during the stress and strain of a traverse. Not only will you spend a very long day, or two, together but the pair of you should train together as a team, so compatibility is a prerequisite. Choose a partner with similar levels of fitness, determination and stamina to yourself – but don’t overlook things like shared interests and a similar sense of humour. An ability to get along well with each other is the second most important thing after safety.
Pick your partner with care, rather than coercing a reluctant boyfriend or girlfriend, for example. Remember your life can, quite literally, be on the line with your choice of partner.
Enjoying the relatively easy route across Collie’s Ledge (Section 4)
Play to each other’s strengths, so if one of you is a much better climber then that person should lead all the technical rock pitches. Finishing the ridge is more important than being able to list the traverse as alternate leads in a logbook. Be prepared to help each other out and don’t be too proud to accept help. For example, if one of you is flagging, then the other can offer to carry both rope and rack.
Ability is not the be all and end all – climbers operating right at the limit of their ability have completed the ridge, having stacked the odds in their favour by researching the route and training hard etc. Conversely, top climbers have failed due to underestimating the undertaking.
Physical fitness
A high level of fitness alone won’t guarantee success but it will improve your odds and enable you to make the most of any weather window.
Walking, cycling and running are all good for general fitness. Going to a wall or climbing hard outside won’t necessarily help but the more grades that you have in hand, the better prepared you will be to effortlessly solo the easier parts of the ridge and cruise the technical pitches.
There is no substitute for sport-specific training so long scrambles and lower grade climbs, long, rough walks and the like will be brilliant practice. Consider link-ups of long easy climbs – choices abound in North Wales and the Lake District.
All training is best done carrying what you anticipate using on Skye. Thus, a fully loaded pack and your choice of footwear should be obligatory. Wear approach shoes and a pack when training at your local wall and concentrate on grades appropriate to the Cuillin. Getting the miles in is more important than flashing hard routes.
Make sure you train whatever the weather. Movement on damp or wet rock, navigation in poor visibility and setting up a bivi in the dark should all reap dividends in getting you ridge fit and ensuring these things become second nature. Think outside of the box and maximise what you have to hand. Your walk to work can be built into the training; wear a rucksack and balance along kerbstones or have a quick traverse of a stone wall. Or, walk up flights of stairs in your office rather than taking the lift. Sea defences and bouldery beaches provide good training opportunities.
Psychological fitness
Most teams will not only be physically exhausted by (or long before) the end of the ridge but also mentally drained. Lots of people after their first attempt on the ridge comment on the scale of the exposure – not just the steep cliffs and big drops involved but the continuous, unrelenting need to remain 100% switched on as you concentrate on the terrain. Mental resilience and a determination to continue is essential, especially on the second half of the ridge which can seem never-ending. You cannot simply plod on and push through regardless because you must stay alert and concentrate on every foot and handhold. Don’t make the mistake of underestimating the mental pressure of constant scrambling in potentially dangerous situations for hour upon hour, especially as the time ticks by and the darkness draws ever closer.
With clean cut holds, The Spur on Sgurr an Fheadain is doable in the wet (Classic scramble 2)
Become slick
Part of the US Navy SEALs’ mantra is ‘slow is smooth, smooth is fast’, and this is what you need to aim towards. Your movement along the ridge needs to be smooth, an uninterrupted flow forwards. Haste has no place and will lead to mistakes and premature expenditure of energy. Practice pacing yourself and make every single action efficient. Learn from mistakes on your practice days out.
Here are a few hints on being slick:
Have food and drink to hand in order to negate the need to stop and remove your pack then reverse the process. Keep food in your pockets, water in a bladder and a drinking tube carefully positioned so as to be accessible.
Refine your clothing system so there is zero faffing with layers on/off/on. If conditions dictate then wear a hat and gloves then remove and put in pockets and vice versa.
Start with the rack arranged and clipped to the leader’s harness ready for the off. Put the rope in a stuff sac or stuffed in pack ready to deploy so as to reduce time wasted uncoiling it and the risk of tangles. Only use the rope when absolutely necessary. Nothing is going to consume time more than endless pitching or abseiling on terrain that can be scrambled up or down-climbed. The weaker climber can use a screwgate to clip into a figure of eight on a bight for speed and after any use of the rope the leader can just take in more coils once the knot has been freed from the screwgate.
Have a map and guidebook in your pocket and readily accessible rather than in your pack. Map cases are a real faff and will definitely be a big no-no for climbing/scrambling.
Get into the habit of saving energy. For example, contour everything from the big hills to the smallest rock traverse. Losing/gaining height is bad and requires an unnecessary expenditure of energy. Adopt the motorway mindset of maybe going a little further than if you were driving on A roads but the process is quicker and more efficient. Constantly scan slightly ahead and planning each foot placement and hand hold.
Communicate with your partner and stay within sight of each other so the second doesn’t have to make the same mistakes as the leader. Point out the easiest line to each other, warn about loose rocks and generally help and look after each other, especially as the day progresses and people tire.
Get into the habit of overly loosening your pack straps as you remove them so they are easy to put back on later.
Pack your rucksack so that anything needed during the day is easily accessible. Bivi and cooking gear can go at the bottom of your pack with items needed during the day close to the top.
Wear clothing appropriate for the conditions and don’t hesitate to shed layers to avoid overheating. Remember, if you can’t be bothered then you probably should.
Concentrate all the time both for safety and navigation. It’s all too easy to be distracted while talking and to lose track of where you are especially in poor visibility.
Make any transitions from walking/scrambling/climbing slick and avoid unnecessary time wasting.
Ensure your shoe laces are well done up and if they are overly long, cut them down. Lots of modern footwear comes with laces that seem to come untied incredibly easy, so experiment. Stop and remove stones from your footwear as soon as you notice their presence rather than plodding on and getting blisters.
Remember, practice makes perfect.
Climber on slabs/corners leading up to Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh’s third top (Section 7)
Research
Research is probably the most common denominator between successful teams. Make sure you read accounts, watch videos on Youtube, look at photos and peruse guidebooks until you know the ridge inside out. Become a Cuillin bore, a Cuillin obsessive and ruthlessly devour all available information. Below are some recommended resources:
UK Climbing has several informative articles and a very active forum with more than 350 different threads on the Cuillin alone (www.ukclimbing.com).
YouTube has lots of videos ranging from amateurish, nausea-inducing head cam productions to full scale advertorials. The pick of the latter include a traverse sponsored by Salewa and another by Rab. In the former, a reporter from Trail Magazine is guided along the ridge over two days whilst the latter features running the ridge in a day.
There are several guidebooks and inspirational books about the Cuillin mountains. Details can be found in Appendix B.
Practice
Your preparation should involve long days that include rough walking and scrambles or enchainments of easy climbs. Practice, for example, in Snowdonia, on Idwal Slabs then Cneifon Arete before carrying on along the tops to do something on Tryfan. For the full pre-Cuillin practice, you could then carry on to do the Snowdon Horseshoe or the Amphitheatre Buttress. If you are planning to do a multi-day ridge, then get out and practice with full bivi gear and actually bivi out so that everything becomes second nature to you.
If time allows, try to get to Skye and get on some of the routes listed in the chapter in this book on classic scrambles. Take care though not to use up any good weather on your practice and then find that when you come to do the traverse your luck has run out.
Make sure all your technical climbing skills are up to scratch and you can lead quickly with a pack, build belays quickly and abseil in a safe fashion. Practice leading with a fairly minimal rack so that you get used to placing less gear and running things out a bit more than usual.
For a team to succeed, it needs to solo the vast majority of the ridge. Time is lost each and every time the rope is used. What could be soloed in a few minutes might take an hour to pitch. Practice soloing on easy ground and gradually build up the difficulty. Remember, there is as much descent as ascent so practice down-climbing.
Try and allow a few extra days so you can get used to the Cuillin gabbro and basalt; how good the friction can be on the gabbro and how slippery damp basalt can be. Get out and train for the ridge but, if possible, recce some of it in preparation for the big day.
On the summit of Gars-bheinn about to start a one-day traverse (Section 1)
Planning
Take on board all the available information and plan according to your capabilities, the weather, available time and desired outcome. Decide on a one-day or multi-day traverse, and whether your approach will be from Elgol or Glen Brittle. Work out how you will retrieve cars from Glen Brittle or Elgol once the ridge is finished, as well as where you will be based on Skye (Glen Brittle, the Sligachan, Broadford or further afield).
Buy any specific hill foods before you get to Skye. Most people will travel through Fort William, which has a range of outdoor shops for last minute purchases, as well as gas for stoves etc. It also has large shops such as Lidl and Morrisons for the more budget conscious. Do you need to stash food/water etc high on the ridge? An Dorus, the notional midpoint, is easily accessed from the path by the Glen Brittle Youth Hostel. Pre-placing water makes good sense especially in hot conditions or for single day, light and fast attempts.
Preparation
Last minute plans and preparation are vital. Be ready for the weather window you have been hoping for and don’t get out of sync with the weather patterns. It is no good if your gear is saturated from practice days in poor weather when a glorious forecast is posted and you will kick yourself if you are exhausted when the weather comes good.
A rest day prior to the traverse makes good sense. Sit on the campsite and chill, rest your legs and eat and drink to capacity. Peruse the guides and maps, pack and repack, go to the pub but don’t overdo it. Make sure you have food and water ready for your return, which may be after the shops and pubs close. In your rush to get away, don’t leave your tents or other accommodation in a mess because once you’re off the hill, you will just want to crash out. Have everything packed and good to go so you simply need to wake up, dress in your pre-chosen clothes, breakfast and go. Don’t forget to set an alarm (or two).
Ascent to summit of Sgurr Thearlaich from top of The Great Stone Chute (Classic scramble 7)
Strategy and tactics
The big, strategic question is what are you realistically hoping to achieve? A complete traverse with all the climbing bits, starting at Gars-bheinn and finishing on Sgurr nan Gillean? Or, will you be satisfied just getting from Gars-bheinn to Gillean, perhaps making the tactical decisions to omit the T-D Gap and Naismith’s? In many ways just getting from end to end is a fine achievement even if some bits have been bypassed. The whole ridge is slightly artificial since not even the most hardened purist will take the most direct line the whole way; it’s just not possible. Remember that purity of the traverse comes a long way after safety and enjoyment, the two most important factors for a successful hill day. My partner on a traverse, Kevin Woods, brilliantly described our day as a ‘full house – 11 Munros, four classic climbs and a bunch of other spiky bits for the hell of it’. We did the whole ridge, all the Munros, all the climbs and descended by Pinnacle Ridge for a perfect day. I have had good traverses when climbs have been missed out and bypasses taken due to the weather or other problems. I call this the Cuillin Ridge Light; a tactic which opens up the traverse as a possibility for many walkers and scramblers who are not hardcore climbers.
Direction of travel
The vast majority of summer traversers go south to north and there are good reasons for this but the north to south approach has its own benefits. South to north means you get some classic climbs, finish on the stunning summit of Sgurr nan Gillean and can descend to the Sligachan for a celebratory drink.
But south to north means some of the most complicated and sustained sections like the four tops of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh and Bidein come late in the traverse when bodies and minds are already fatigued. To face the Bhasteir Tooth so close to the end is a big challenge. It’s a long initial slog out to the start on Gars-bheinn and there are complicated descents if going south to north; Sgurr Thearlaich to Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, Banachdich to Sgurr Thormaid.
A north to south traverse means some of the harder, steeper climbs can be abseiled; the last part of Sgurr nan Gillean’s west ridge; Am Basteir, Bhasteir Tooth etc; the second and third tops of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh; and the T-D Gap. Instead, there are tricky climbs up to An Caisteal and Bidein’s main summit.
On balance, there are good arguments for either direction but to experience the best climbs and a better finish, south to north is arguably more popular for good reasons. There’s also more chance of all the abseils having in situ anchors.
The steep second abseil from Bidein (Section 8)
One day or two?
Light and fast, or heavier packs but the amazing experience of a night high in the mountains – which would you prefer? If you are just there to tick the ridge and have the necessary ability and fitness, then a one-day traverse is a good option. Others will relish the longer time spent in the mountains. There is no right or wrong way.
TRIAD: The Ridge In A Day
This can be a gamble, putting all your eggs in one basket. If you are so exhausted that you do not finish, then it is unlikely you are going to physically, let alone mentally, recover enough for a second attempt on this trip. If the gamble pays off and everything is in alignment then the outcome will be brilliant.
It can be thrilling to move fast and light with minimal gear and be down in time for a celebratory drink. It’s a great feeling to do the ridge in a day and, in some ways, it’s the purest approach. Unless you are exceptionally fit, however, TRIAD will be a suffer fest.
To do it, cut things to a minimum and only set off if the forecast is perfect. In good weather, you could ditch spare clothes, perhaps just taking a lightweight waterproof. Take a minimal rack and short rope, safe in the knowledge that if things go wrong there are plenty of places to drop out down to the Glen Brittle road in a couple of hours. Going as light as this is a risk you must accept in order to manage the ridge in a day.
If the weather is going to be hot then consider pre placing water at An Dorus, or, better still, get someone else to carry it up.
Retrieving a cache of food/water at An Dorus (part of Classic scramble 4)
TRIAD has the bonus of only requiring a small weather window to offer a chance of success. To succeed, you will need to solo everything except the technical climbs and abseils. If the forecast is good, then be prepared for queues at the T-D Gap as other people will have seen the forecast. Either leave very, very early so as to arrive at the gap before anyone else or, if you are confident of a speedy traverse then leave later so as to be behind the early starters and arrive to a crowd free gap. The only other blockage is likely to be the In Pinn. But if you are moving fast you can still get there before the munro baggers arrive mid to late morning.
CREST: Cuillin Ridge Expedition Style Traverse
The multi-day (usually two-day) approach can be a satisfying way to do the ridge and spend an extended period of time up high. This is for mountain lovers rather than teams that just want the ridge tick. It’s also great for keen photographers with the chance of a great sunset and sunrise. What better way is there to chill out after a long mountain day than eating and drinking endless brews while looking out to Hebridean islands and the ridge traversed and that still to come?
There is less urgency with this approach, and no need for such an excruciatingly early start. Time should be less pressing so there is some leeway to cope with delays at notorious bottlenecks like the T-D Gap or In Pinn. Water is not as scarce as the naysayers would have you believe so you don’t have to carry debilitating amounts.
If you do decide to bivi, then make sure it’s going to be comfortable. An uncomfortable night may well ruin your chances of finishing the ridge. Make sure all your gear is up to the job and try to pick a comfortable site. Remove any obvious rocks that will dig into you. If it’s windy, then use one of the many stone shelters or consider descending on the lee side of the ridge a short distance. However, remember if there are midges about then a breeze is beneficial.
A good rest combined with rehydrating and a decent meal are the key for success on day two. Set up things as soon as possible, rehydrate and eat then relax. A good bivi will enhance the whole traverse.
Typical stone-walled bivi site. Note midge net being worn
The downsides include having to carry much heavier/bulkier packs, which reduce the enjoyment factor, as well as the need for a longer weather window and the greater chance that the forecasters may have got things wrong. A lot of people who opt for CREST could have managed TRIAD with its correspondingly much lighter loads. Much of the challenge of TRIAD is psychological.
Both CREST and TRIAD are open to various options
Some teams walk into Gars-bheinn and bivi. The next day you can stash the bivi gear and move fast and light. This means you get to experience a high bivi, get the approach and 900m ascent out of the way and your legs have the night to recover. Arriving by the last boat from Elgol could make for an excellent evening. Slowly wander up Gars-bheinn, cook dinner and fill your water bottles as high as possible, then continue to the summit and start the ridge. Stop at one of the stone circles, brew up and rehydrate before enjoying the evening.
The major downside of the above is having to retrieve your gear. Ideally, friends or relatives would be coerced into getting your gear back. Potentially, support teams could meet you on the ridge at various places such as the In Pinn. or An Dorus with bivi gear, food, water and so on.
Your team could place bivi gear, food and water in certain places for you but this means you are absolutely committed to getting to where they are hidden. Also, it potentially wastes two days placing and retrieving the gear but it does make for nice light packs. If you pre-place gear then be certain that you can recognise the hiding place especially with the possibility that you may be arriving in the dark or in poor weather conditions. Remember to go back to remove any bottles or rubbish left in caches. Abandoned water bottles are becoming an increasing problem on the ridge.
On a tactical level, there are lots of choices that can be made on the hoof depending on how time, tiredness and the weather are doing. The Cuillin Ridge Light tactic would have you always taking the easiest option. Most (but not all) of these easier options are shown as green alternative routes in the Topo Booklet, enabling you to mix and match to suit your ability and experience:
T-D Gap or bypass it and do Sgurr Alasdair’s south-west ridge
King’s Chimney or Collie’s Ledge
An Stac or bypass it
The In Pinn can be bypassed if queues make a long wait necessary
Bidein can be bypassed on its northern flank
Naismith’s or Lota Corrie Route or bypass Am Basteir entirely to the north
Descend from Sgurr nan Gillean by the W ridge, SE ridge or Pinnacle Ridge.
Escape routes
If things are not going too well, there are plenty of escape routes. In fact, despite seeming remote, the Cuillin is very escapable and thus the commitment lower than one might expect for a route of its size. Section route maps in the Topo Booklet have escape routes marked on (ER).
Escape routes include:
Bealach a’ Garbh-choire
Bealach Coir’ an Lochan
Bealach Mhic Coinnich
Bealach Coire an Lagan
South-west ridge of Sgurr Dearg
Bealach Coire na Banachdich
Western shoulder of Sgurr na Banachdich down to Coire an Eich
Eag Dubh
An Dorus
Bealach na Glaic Moire
Bealach Harta
Down into Coir’ a’ Tairneilear via the gully below the An Caisteal abseil
North-west ridge of Bruach na Frithe
Bealach nan Lice
Bealach a’ Bhasteir
Bivi sites and water sources
There is much evidence of where people have spent nights high on the ridge and it is interesting to wonder what future archaeologists will make of the stone circles. Below are some of the ridge’s bivi sites:
Gars-bheinn and along the ridge to the north-west has various bivi sites.
Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn and Bealach Coir’ an Lochain have lots of bivi sites that are close to the spring about 100m below the T-D Gap and easily identified by the vibrant green moss surrounding it.
The top of the Great Stone Chute has been used for bivis.
Sgurr Sgumain bivi cave is especially useful if conditions turn nasty.
The north ridge of Sgurr Thearlaich has a couple of good sites with stunning views up to An Stac and the In Pinn.
Sgurr Dearg has lots of flat areas and, if conditions turn bad, there is the In Pinn bivi cave.
Bealach Coire na Banachdich is another good site due to the proximity of water at about 700m. The best bivi sites are south of the bealach with stone circles built.
The col between Sgurr Thormaid and Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh has good bivi sites.
On Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, there are several bivi sites just up from An Dorus. There is the possibility of descending for water on the Glen Brittle side but it is a fair descent.
Bealach na Glaic Moire has stone circles, some grass and water usually not too far below, but you might need a mug or straw to access it.
Bealach nan Lice has stone circles and a spring 100m below the bealach. It’s visible from above due to the vibrant green moss surrounding it.
Deer enjoying the spring below the T-D Gap
Some years there will be large snow patches on the ridge as late as the end of May – and these can be a real bonus. A straw or drinking tube of some kind is useful for getting to water partially hidden below rocks.
A note on rubbish and hill etiquette
Always use your common sense when using the hills but due to increasing popularity, the Cuillin needs to be looked after for future generations.
Please take all rubbish away with you. If you carried a full water bottle or can up, then it’s a no brainer to take the empties down. If you pre place bottles of water then please make sure you retrieve them. Tissues and toilet paper are increasingly being discarded high in the hills and are unsightly and a biohazard. Take them home. Do some research about going to the toilet in the hills but remember, the Cuillin is a high mountain environment with a fragile, easily disturbed ecosystem.
Please do not build cairns, scratch arrows and directions on rocks or cause any unnecessary erosion or damage.
Gear
The cardinal rule in terms of gear is that light is right but not at the expense of safety. Remember, every extra gram has to be carried every single step of the way. Huge rucksacks or packs festooned with gear strapped to the outside suggest inexperience and a mentality of covering every possible eventuality. Extra gear can transform a single day attempt into a nightmare of exhaustion as you struggle in the dwindling daylight. If you take emergency bivi gear, for example, you are more than likely to end up using it.
Pack everything in your rucksack before you travel to Skye. Make sure it all fits and you can climb without being too impeded by it. Get out and practice with all the gear you will be using. The Cuillin traverse is no place to be trying out new gear which may, or may not, be up to the job.
Climbers on NE Ridge of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich with views to An Stac, In Pinn and the ridge beyond
Packing
Pack everything you will be taking before you go so there are no unpleasant surprises with weight or bulk. Try meticulously to save weight. Avoid duplication of items in both team members’ packs – for example, sunscreen, insect repellent, toothpaste, lighters, stoves etc. Keep things like your sleeping bag in a waterproof bag and avoid the fad of having lots of different little bags for every item. Neither sleeping nor bivi bags need to be in separate stuff sacs. Just bundle them into your rucksack and compress them with the rest of your gear. Consider using your bivi bag to put water sensitive items (like sleeping bags) in. Try to avoid anything that will be sticky or leak and make a mess. Make sure sunscreen and the like are in bombproof containers and only take a small amount rather than the large bottles they are sold in.
Rack
Some teams have such large racks of gear that locals often joke that some secret big wall has been discovered. A huge rack suggests you lack the confidence and/or skill to tackle the ridge. As the visionary alpinist Mark Twight said: ‘The size of our rack represented a huge judgement against our ability and confidence’. There are only three short, set piece climbs and all can be bypassed if conditions or mental attitude are not right. None are harder than Severe.
A rack is a very personal thing so it needs to be selected according to experience and advice. Refer to the box for what I would take – others might want much more or soloists may dispense with it altogether.
Recommended rack
Typical smallish rack of gear for an experienced climber traversing the ridge
Rocks on wire – sizes 3, 4, 6 , and possibly 8 , on a single wire gate karabiner
Rockcentrics – sizes 3, 4, 5, each on a single wire gate karabiner
240cm sling x1 on a screwgate karabiner
120cm slings x3, each on each on a wiregate or screwgate karabiner
60cm sling x1 with two wiregates
Wiregate karabiners x2
Screwgate karabiner x1
Each person will need a screwgate and belay device and possibly prussik loops and a sling and screwgate. Consider taking a nut key to remove stubborn gear and some cord/tape to use for abseils; most abseils will have slings in place but you may opt to replace them and you also have the option of using the cord/tape should you get off route and need to retreat.
Gear that can double up is a bonus. Thus the Rockcentrics can be used for protection but also as short extenders and threads. Long slings can be shortened and used to extend runners, threaded round chockstones or placed on spikes.
Cams are heavy and not strictly necessary. Much of the climbing is very traditionally protected and climbs such as the In Pinn can be protected entirely with slings if you so choose. Long slings are better than short extenders which increase rope drag and also the risk of gear being lifted out.
Rope
The entire ridge can be done with a single 35m rope. A short rope means less weight and is much easier to manage both coiling and short roping. Many will take a longer rope and this does give you more options especially if things go wrong and you have to do longer than normal abseils. Taking a 35m rope rather than a 50cm or 60m rope is probably the easiest single way to save a lot of weight and bulk in your pack.
The rope needs to be thick enough to handle well for the short roping so super skinny ropes are not ideal and will soon get trashed on the super abrasive Cuillin rocks. Lots of guides use a 35m Beal Joker, which at 54g per metre is one of the lightest single ropes available. The Joker is ideal for the ridge but does require experience since it is very thin and may well be very slick in some belay devices.
Harness, helmet and head torches
All harnesses, helmets and head torches need to be as light as possible. There is no need for super comfy, padded harnesses with masses of gear loops. You won’t be falling off (hopefully) and hanging around and you will only have a minimalist rack.
Comfort is important especially for walking in because you don’t want to be continually taking the harness and off. Modern helmets are very comfortable and a good idea given the amount of loose rock and potentially other climbers knocking things down. If it’s comfortable you will be happy to keep it on rather than just wear it for the climbs and then using it as extra ballast in your pack.
Make sure you can fit a head torch to the helmet and put it on before it is dark enough to need it. One set of batteries will easily last for a traverse so ditch any spares and set off with just a brand new set in the torch.
Pack
The type of pack you take is largely down to personal preference and depends on whether you are going for a one or multi-day traverse. Simple, light and robust are characteristics to look for. Simple designs will have no unnecessary features that add weight and can snag on things. Some people will take a small pack otherwise you are tempted to take too much but I nearly always use a rucksack of around 45 litres. Being a bit larger means it is easy to get gear in and out without a struggle. This saves time and frustration especially when trying to cram the rope or rack back inside after a climb. Compatibility with a water bladder is a useful feature and enables you to keep hydrated while on the move.
Footwear
The old school of thought is that walking boots are de rigeur because they provide ankle support and more comfort on scree and the descents. If you are happy climbing to Severe with a pack on and have comfortable footwear then go for the boot option.
A whole industry has spun up manufacturing so called ‘approach shoes’, which combine the qualities of a trainer or fell running shoe with a climbing shoe. They are much better than boots for climbing in and have a much more precise fit and sticky rubber soles. The downsides are a lack of ankle support and generally not being waterproof. The latter shouldn’t be too much of a problem since if it is raining then you will probably be abandoning the ridge. If you opt for approach shoes you need to be used to wearing them for such long hill days on very rough ground with a pack.
The rough Cuillin rock can play havoc with any footwear so consider smearing glue on the stitching to protect it from abrasion. It might not look pretty but it extends the life of the shoe considerably. With care, approach shoes can last longer than you might expect but with abuse they can be trashed on a single traverse. I have worn a pair of approach shoes for a six-week period in the Cuillin and they covered 240km with 27,000m of ascent. They were trashed by the end but had seen a huge amount of use.
Choose your pack and footwear carefully and make sure you test your gear in conditions appropriate to the ridge (Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, Section 7)
If you are thinking about rock shoes to change into then perhaps you aren’t ready yet for the ridge. Changing in and out of footwear is a waste of time and if you don’t have the grade to spare to be able to rock climb in approach shoes or boots then you may well struggle to solo the scrambling, which is a prerequisite for success. Boot or shoe is a personal choice – whichever you opt for, make sure you train in them rather than arriving at Glen Brittle with virgin footwear. Go for a comfortable fit and bear in mind that your feet will swell over a 15-hour day.
Clothing
The type of clothing you need will depend on time of year, weather forecast and style of the traverse. A one-day traverse in perfect conditions might just require a light windproof and hat in addition to what you are wearing. For multi-day trips, think about the large temperature ranges that are possible and be prepared with warmer clothes for cold clear nights.
Socks should be comfortable, tried and tested. Merino wool mixed with manmade fibres work well (pure wool seems to wear out very quickly).
Trousers need to be hardwearing to survive the rough rock. Large pockets are useful for keeping hill food, route instructions and your map etc to hand. Shorts are not recommended due to the abrasiveness of the rock.
Underwear should preferably be of manmade fibres so as to dry quickly when you sweat.
Baselayer can be long-sleeved so as to keep arms warm and double as protection from the sun. Manmade fibres are best although some merino wool/manmade fibre mixes work well. 100% wool tends to get clammy and stay damp.
A fleece will provide a useful warm layer. A thin, hooded fleece with thumb loops is ideal and can be combined with a thin Pertex windshell.
A duvet jacket could be considered as an addition especially if you are going to bivi. Synthetic is best given the prevailing maritime climate.
Waterproofs will hopefully not be needed. You probably won’t need a full metal jacket of heavy Goretex since if conditions are that bad you will be heading down. Lightweight waterproofs work well, are obviously light and pack down small.
Gloves provide useful protection against both the cold and the rough rock. A pair of thin liner gloves take very little space but may save the day if conditions change. Gloves are also useful for protection against the rough rock and rope handling especially if you aren’t used to it. Big name climbing gear manufacturers make thin leather palmed gloves but they are expensive so a useful alternative can be either leather workmen’s gloves or gardeners’ gloves.
Leather gloves being worn on Bidein (Section 8)
Headgear is invaluable for keeping you warm or cool so take a hat and something to protect you from the sun. Buffs are very versatile. Make sure your choice of headgear works well with your climbing helmet. You should consider taking sunglasses depending on the weather forecast but especially if it’s going to be sunny and there is still snow around.
Bivi gear
Sleeping bag
Most people prefer synthetic bags due to the possibility of them getting wet. However, down bags are lighter, pack smaller and hopefully you will be setting out with a good forecast (and probably only for one night) so it won’t be too disastrous should it get damp. Personally, I take a 1 season very light down bag and wear all my clothes in it happy to offset a slightly chilly night for a light pack over two days.
Bivi bag
I have only used Goretex bags and they work pretty well. I have seen people literally soaked with condensation when using bags made of other materials so Goretex is well worth the added cost. A zip top is preferable to the cheaper models with draw cords, which are harder to seal against the elements. Remember, bags can tear easily on rough ground so choose your bivi carefully and consider putting your sleeping mat on the ground under it.
Sleeping mat
Lots of people take Thermarest-type mats but these are very vulnerable to the sharp rocks of the Cuillin so care is needed with choosing your bivi site. Consider a closed cell foam mat cut down to two-thirds of its full size, so just long enough to stretch from hips to shoulders; the rope can be uncoiled and used for padding under your legs and your rucksack as a pillow.
Stove
Gas is the way to go. It’s clean, easy, quick and there are no worries about liquid fuel spills or leaks. Light is best but think about stability and wind resistance if going for the ultra-light models. Jetboil-type stoves are brilliant; not the lightest but completely self-contained with windshield, pot and cup etc all in one. Don’t rely on built in-igniters – always take another lighter or windproof matches.
Cutlery etc
A spoon or spork should suffice since you won’t be engaging in cordon bleu cooking. A largish cup can double as a bowl to eat from.
Water bottles
Consider taking extra bottles or a spare bladder so you can descend to a spring and take back plenty of water for the evening and next day.
Food and drinks
Preferences will vary according to personal taste but whatever you take, make sure you have tried it in the hills prior to your ridge attempt.
Trail food to eat during the day
Trail food should be kept easily accessible so it can be eaten little and often, perhaps in trouser or fleece pockets or a pouch on your hipsack belt. Here are some ideas to consider:
Fruit pastilles or jelly babies
Fig rolls (although these can be too dry in heatwave conditions)
Cereal bars (test them and opt for the more moist varieties)
Energy gels in small sachets (particularly useful for one day traverses)
Liquid for the day should also be readily available so Camelback-type bladders are ideal and enable you to drink without stopping. Fill bladders and bottles etc and drink your fill as high as possible on the approach. Remember, lots of teams give up due to running out of water/dehydration. Hydration tablets not only replace lost salts and sugars but the pleasant taste can encourage you to drink more and stay hydrated.
Evening meal, breakfast and lightweight cooking gear
Dinner
Boil-in-the-bag or dehydrated meals are very quick and easy to prepare, don’t mess up the pans and the water can double for a hot drink. On the downside, they are expensive and boil-in-the-bag meals are heavy.
A cheap, easy and light alternative is a packet of cous cous, slices of salami and a cup-a-soup. Quality chocolate for pudding followed by copious hot drinks of your choice constitutes a fairly palatable meal. Keep water handy so you can rehydrate without getting out of your bag at night. A small bottle of whisky or a hip flask can enhance morale no end.
Breakfast
Again, quick and simple is the key with breakfast. Instant porridge only requires boiling water and can be made in a cup – consider adding cranberries or sultanas to it as well. Drink as much as is available. Breakfast bars are good but some can be a bit dry.
Miscellaneous
Depending on the time of year, consider taking a head net and/or some sort of repellent like Smidge to counter the midges. Remember, they don’t fly if the wind is 4mph or more so exposed bivi sites on the ridge may be midge-free.
Besides midges, the other wildlife worry on the ridge is ticks, which may well latch onto you especially lower down on the walk in where deer are prevalent. Tick cards are worth their weight in gold to remove these stubborn blighters and are available from chemists.
Toiletries should be kept to a minimum – you shouldn’t really carry more than a toothbrush and a small container with enough toothpaste for the team, toilet paper, sunscreen (if the weather’s good) and lip salve.
Take a phone for emergency use and possibly to check the weather forecast on a multi-day traverse. Mobile phone reception is poor to non-existent in Glen Brittle, Elgol etc but pretty good when on the ridge itself. Check your particular network has coverage before you set off. You might find a small camera useful to record events (or you could rely on your phone).
Make sure there is no duplication of unnecessary gear between partners. It may sound excessive but to save weight and bulk consider taking things out of individual stuff sacks and containers. Thus, there is no need to keep a bivi bag in a stuff sack. Unless there is a forecast of heavy rain, don’t bother with a dry bag but use the bivi bag as a pack liner and bundle things inside it.
Navigation
Should you be lucky and have great weather with wall-to-wall visibility, you may well wonder what all the fuss is about. More likely, visibility will be less than ideal and you will immediately realise why people talk about the complexities of Cuillin navigation.
