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Much depends upon type and size, but the average traditional red-brick path will probably take 3–5 days to design and create – a day for planning and marking out, and the rest of the time for removing the topsoil and building. A wooden walkway or a path made from gravel or tree bark can usually be put down in the space of a long weekend, but a flight of brick and stone steps might take a week or more, depending on the structure of the subsoil.

Will these involve much work?

DESIGNING AND PLANNING PATHS

What do you want from your path? Do you want it to be the shortest route between two points – such as the swiftest route from the kitchen to the compost heap – or do you want it to be a slow, meandering route that takes in all the best bits of the garden? Do you want the path to be plain and functional – just a concrete strip – or do you want it to be decorative, with lots of color and different materials?

This path, complete with steps, raised walls and other features has been deliberately designed to make a grand statement.

PATH OPTIONS

Following the edge of a flower border

Providing a walk around the garden

Old pieces of stone suit a country garden

A traditional herringbone brick path

Cobblestone paths are easy to lay

Leading to a particular feature

Curved paths are good for informal areas

Crazy (cleft stone) paving is suitable for a relaxed garden

Gravel and lavender are a good mix

A simple crushed stone path is just right for this scented garden, and the edges are softened by the spread of the plants.

PATH CONSTRUCTION

Gravel A gravel path is a joy – it looks good and is relatively easy to install. Remove the turf and topsoil to a depth of 8 in (20 cm), and then put down a 4 in (10 cm) thick layer of compacted stone and gravel followed by a 4 in (10 cm) layer of pea gravel.

Path construction – brick A red-brick path is a good traditional option. Remove the turf and topsoil down to a depth of 8 in (20 cm), and then put down 3 ½ in (8 cm) of compacted gravel, ⅞ in (20 mm) of compacted coarse sand and ¼ in (5 mm) of soft sand, followed by the bricks.

STEPS IN THE GARDEN

These attractive formal steps have been created with stone slabs forming the treads and bricks forming the risers.

Informal steps made from reclaimed railroad ties are excellent for a country garden using natural materials.

These brick and stone steps are adjoined by buttress hand supports, complete with lights for illuminating the steps after dark.

DESIGNING AND PLANNING STEPS

A functional feature

If you have a sloping garden, you have the choice of scrambling about and just hoping that you do not slip, or you can build steps. Apart from being a good, practical solution, steps also function as a decorative feature that leads the eye from one level to another.

Calculations

Good, comfortable steps need to have risers at about 6–7 in (15–18 cm) high, with treads that measure 12–16 in (30–40 cm) from front to back.

Construction and materials

While there are lots of options – brick, stone, ties, wood, and many more beside – some materials are easier to use than others. For example, a mix of brick and stone is a good choice – the bricks are just right for the risers, and the stone can be sized to suit the depth of the treads.

A flight of steps leading from a path up to a patio. To a great extent, the whole flight is supported on the concrete foundation that runs under the bottom step.

STEP OPTIONS

Log and gravel steps are a good option for a country garden, as they are quick to create.

These corner steps in a path have been made from square paving slabs and bricks.

PATH AND STEP PROBLEM-SOLVING

Soft, sloping ground This flight of brick steps, with concrete over stone and gravel under every tread, is a good option for soft, damp ground. The extra- thick layer of stone and gravel and the pipe under the bottom step help to spread the load and drain off the water.

Boggy ground A simple pole walkway is a good option for boggy ground. The poles are supported on posts or piles – the damper the ground, the longer the piles required. If you are worried about slipping, you could also include a handrail, as here.

Existing concrete steps The best way of sorting out an ugly flight of concrete steps is to cover them with brick. All you do is leave the concrete in place and lay bricks over the treads. The remaining bits of concrete – the risers – can be stained or painted.

PATH CONSTRUCTION

For straight paths, use materials such as paving slabs and concrete pavers which will not need cutting and trimming. These are also best used on flat surfaces. Conversely, for a meandering path on sloping ground, choose crazy paving. Natural stone is also a possibility, but is more expensive. Because plants are often planted in the spaces between pieces of natural stone, do not use a spade to clear snow and ice away, nor put salt on the path.

LAYING PAVING SLABS

Pre-cast paving slabs are ideal for creating a firm, all-weather surface. They can be used on their own or combined with other materials, such as bricks, to create decorative patterns.

1. Prepare the area of the path by removing topsoil and adding a 4 in (10 cm) thick layer of compacted filler.

2. Spread and level a 2–3 in (5–7.5 cm) thick layer of coarse sand over the compacted filler.

3. Mark on the sand the area of the first slab and place five blobs of mortar on it – one in each corner and one in the center.

4. Carefully place a paving slab in position and check that it has a gentle slope so that surface water drains away.

5. Position the next slab and check its slope. If the slabs have straight edges, place ½ in (12 mm) thick spaces between them.

6. When the mortar is hard, remove the spaces and fill the joints with a stiff, dry, weak mortar mix (see below).

When filling joints

When filling gaps between paving slabs, take care that the mixture does not go on top of them, as it leaves marks. Instead, line the edges with masking tape; then use a stiff, dry, weak mortar mixture to fill the gaps. Tamp this level, to just below the surfaces of the slabs.

Cutting paving slabs

It is often necessary to cut paving slabs. Professionals use powered cutters (angle-grinders), but home gardeners can use a bolster (type of cold chisel) and a club hammer. Wear goggles and strong gloves and score a line on the slab (all edges and sides). Then, using the bolster and club hammer, work around the slab, several times. When complete, place the slab on a board, so that the scored line is positioned above its edge. Use the wooden handle of a club hammer to knock the slab sharply so it breaks along the line.

Cutting concrete brick pavers

Unless a squared pattern (see right) is used to lay pavers, cutting is essential. This can be done by using a bolster chisel and club hammer in the same way as for paving slabs (see above, right); when laying a large patio it is better to rent a wet saw. Don’t forget to wear goggles and strong gloves.

LAYING CONCRETE PAVERS

Also known as “flexible” pavers, they gain this name because they are laid on a bed of coarse sand and can, if necessary, later be lifted and relaid. They are about the size of house bricks and ideal for straight paths. Crazy paving is better for curved paths.

1. Mark out the area of the path, remove topsoil and install 6 in (15 cm) deep side constraints. These are vital to hold the sand and bricks in place.

2. Spread and firm a 3 in (7.5 cm) thick layer of filler over the base.

3. Spread a 2 in (5 cm) thick layer of coarse sand over the filler. Select a 6 in (15 cm) deep piece of wood; cut notches at the ends so that when drawn over the sand it leaves the surface the thick ness of the paver, minus ⅜ in (9 mm), below the top of the sides.

4. Place the pavers on the sand in the desired pattern (see here).

5. Compact the pavers by placing a flat piece of wood on the surface and repeatedly tapping it with a club hammer.

6. Brush coarse sand over the surface, then again compact the pavers. Repeat this, then water the surface with a fine-rosed watering can.

CONSTRUCTING A GRAVEL PATH

Gravel paths have a relaxing ambience, yet can be either formal or informal depending on the edging. Strong side constraints are essential. Provide these with concrete slabs or strong wood.

1. Dig out the area of the path, 4 in (10 cm) deep and 3–4 ft (90 cm–1.2 m) wide. Ensure that the path is dug out to an even depth, especially along its edges.

2. Position concrete side constraints, 3 ft (90 cm) long, 2 in (5 cm) thick and 6 in (15 cm) deep. Use a spirit level to check that the sides are level. Cement them in place.

3. When the side constraints are firm and cannot be moved, use a sledge hammer or club hammer to break up large bricks to form an even base. Do not dislodge the side constraints.

4. Spread gravel over the rubble, so that its surface is about 1 in (2.5 cm) below the side constraints. Use a short piece of stout wood or a metal garden rake.

Stepping trunks!

Gravel paths can be made more attractive by letting sections of wide tree trunks into them. A piece of wire netting secured on top of each slice prevents them becoming slippery.

CONTRUCTING A CRAZY-PAVING PATH

1. Use strings to mark the position and width of the path. Dig out topsoil to 6 in (15 cm) deep; install side constraints.

2. Form a 2 in (5 cm) thick layer of compacted filler; then 1 ½ in (36 mm) of coarse sand.

3. Spread mortar over the sand and lay straight-edged pieces of crazy-paving along the sides, about 3 ½ ft (1 m) at a time.

4. Fill the center with irregularly shaped pieces

5. Fill cracks with mortar.

LAYING A NATURAL STONE PATH

Natural stone forms attractive paths. Use strings to mark the path’s area and dig out topsoil. Add filler, then 2 in (5 cm) of coarse sand. Because of its uneven thickness, natural stone is more difficult to lay than crazy paving. Lay the stones on blobs of mortar. Dig out sand and filler from some of the larger joints, and fill with soil- based compost. Later, small, prostrate plants can be put in them.

PATTERNS FOR PAVERS

Complex patterns are best left to professional constructors. Several bonds are simple to create, including running and basketweave.

Before deciding the path’s width, lay out pavers on a flat surface to the desired pattern. The width of the path can then be tailored to suit this measurement, thereby avoiding any unnecessary cutting of pavers.

Basketweave bond

Running bond (crosswise)

Running bond (lengthwise)

Herringbone bond

Squared bond

Simple bond with cross pavers