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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
The French Alps
The French Alps stretch for some 403km (250 miles), from Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) in the north to the Mediterranean coast in the south, in the vicinity of Nice and Menton. They form a natural frontier with Italy to the east and Switzerland to the north. The weather tends to be warmer and more stable than in the Swiss and Austrian Alps.
Within France the Alps can be divided into three main regions – the Savoie (Savoy), Dauphine and Provençal Alps. The mountains are to be found within seven départements, namely Haute-Savoie, Savoie, Isère, Drôme, Hautes-Alpes, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and Alpes-Maritimes (see map). Of these the Isère and the Drôme contain mainly the lower massifs, or Pre-Alpes.
Possibly the most impressive region of the Pre-Alpes is the Vercours, west of Grenoble, now a regional park. The Chablais Alps south of Geneva, bordering onto Switzerland, are rich in lush, green, Alpine pasture. This area leads to the major summits of the northern French Alps, culminating in Mont Blanc, at 4807m (15,759ft) the highest peak in Western Europe. Here also are the other great mountains of the French Alps: Grandes Jorasses (4208m/13,795ft) Aiguille du Midi (3842m/12,595ft) and Aiguille Verte (4122m/13,513ft).
South of Chamonix and the Mont Blanc region is the Vanoise, a national park. Here there are many glaciers and high peaks, including the well-known La Grande Casse (3855m/12,638ft). Southwest of the Vanoise is another national park, the Écrins (Parc National des Écrins). The major summits of the Écrins, La Meije (3982m/13,054ft), Mont Pelvoux (3946m/12,936ft) and the Barre des Écrins (4102m/13,447ft), are all seen to advantage on the Tour of the Queyras.
The Queyras region itself lies to the southeast of the Écrins, in what is generally considered to be the northernmost part of the southern French Alps. Further south lies the newest of the French national parks, the Mercantour. Summers here tend to be hot and the mountains rather arid, as the Alps finally run out at the Côte d’Azur.
Today the major industry in the French Alps is tourism, and during the winter months skiing is an important source of income. There is still plenty of non-intensive farming, and forestry is also very much in evidence. Employment is also available in the hydroelectric industry and in the management of the national and regional parks.
Walkers on the ascent to the Col de Moussière (Stage 1)
The Queyras
The Queyras is a rather isolated region of the French Alps, situated in the eastern half of the département of the Hautes-Alpes, bordering Italy on three sides. Turin lies to the east in a wide valley at the foot of the Piedmont Alps. The Queyras lies within the old province of Dauphiné, having been part of France since 1349. (The correct pronunciation of Queyras is a little unclear. Remember that in French ‘qu’ is pronounced rather like a ‘k’. Locals often do not pronounce the ‘s’, whereas most French people who live outside the region pronounce the word with the final consonant.)
The major peaks of the Queyras (Pic de Rochebrune 3320m/10,884ft, Grand Glaiza 3293m/10,795ft, Le Pain de Sucre 3208m/10,517ft, Tête des Toillies 3175m/10,409ft, Le Grand Queyras 3114m/10,209ft, Bric Bouchet 2997m/9825ft, Tête du Pelvas 2929m/9602ft) are lower than those in the Vanoise to the north and the Écrins to the northwest, and there are no glaciers in the Queyras. It is ideal hill-walking country, where several of the mountain summits can be reached by the ordinary walker, without the use of specialist equipment or skills.
The region is scenically of the highest order, and because of its location there are first-rate views of the neighbouring summits of the Écrins and the Piedmont Alps in Italy. The highest, most imposing and well-known mountain in the whole area is Monte Viso (3841m/12,592ft). Its summit lies just over the border in Italy, but its mighty and graceful lines are on view for much of the Tour of the Queyras.
View from Saint-Véran (Stage 3)
The main geographical feature of the Queyras is the Guil valley. The River Guil rises high up in the mountains on the border with Italy in the Monte Viso region. It flows first to the northwest, passing La Monta and Abriès before turning to the southwest, passing Aiguilles to reach Château-Queyras. From here the river continues below the hamlet of Bramousse to enter the deep Combe du Queyras, before flowing into the River Durance near the fortified town of Montdauphin. The River Guil is met on several occasions during the Tour of the Queyras.
The major town of the Queyras is Guillestre, on the southwestern outskirts of the district. Several large villages or small towns in the region – such as Abriès, Saint-Véran and Ceillac – have expanded over the last few decades to accommodate the growing skiing and tourist industry. The nearest large town to the Queyras is Briançon, 34km (21 miles) north of Guillestre on the N94 along the Durance valley.
The classic road approach to the Queyras is via the famous Col d’lzoard (2361m/7740ft) on the D902 from Briançon and Cervières. This is one of the most impressive road passes in the Alps, providing spectacular views, but usually made impassable by snow from October to May. The other approach is from Gap and Embrun to the southwest, then through the Combe du Queyras on the D902 to Château-Queyras, and on up the Guil valley to Abriès.
The mountains effectively prevent a southern approach to the region, and the peaks and high cols forming the Franco–Italian border isolate the district from Italy. There is one route through the heart of the Queyras and over into Italy. It runs from Château-Queyras to Ville-Vieille and on past the Demoiselle Coiffée (a natural feature that consists of a high earth pillar surmounted by a large boulder), continuing to La Rua, Molines-en-Queyras, Pierre Grosse and Fontgillarde, and up to Col Agnel on the border with Italy. On the author’s previous visits in the 1980s, the latter stages of this ascent were on an unsurfaced track, requiring the use of a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Now this track is fully metalled, and links with the road descending from Col Agnel to Chianale in Italy and so on to Turin. The route is an ancient one, and many believe it to be the line taken by Hannibal and his elephants in the legendary crossing of the Alps.
The Norman church of St Pierre et St Paul, Abriès (Stage 7)
There are several cul-de-sac roads in the Queyras that allow visitors to admire the scenery. The road up the Cervières valley to Les Fonts is one example. Others include the road to the Belvédère du Viso in the Upper Guil valley and the road along the Mélezet valley from Ceillac to La Riaille.
The Queyras, like most other regions of the Alps, has experienced depopulation over the last 150 years, caused by the hardships of rural mountain life, lack of local employment and the effects of two world wars. Being so close to Italy, the Queyras suffered considerably in the last war, and was the scene of much mountain warfare (witness the destruction of La Monta and Ristolas in the upper Guil valley). The population of the Queyras stood at around 8000 in the mid-19th century, but today the resident population is much lower than this. For example, Molines-en-Queyras had over 1000 inhabitants in 1838, but this had declined to 290 by the mid-1970s. However, skiing and tourism have now helped to stabilise the situation.
Typical carpenter’s cross, Ceillac (Stage 2)
In the Queyras the typical architecture is houses built of half stone and half wood, with high haylofts (or greniers). Many of these were built in the 17th and 18th centuries. There are good examples to be seen in La Rua near Molines-en-Queyras and in Saint-Véran and Aiguilles.
The Catholic religion has always been strong in the Queyras, and there is ample evidence of this to be seen on the walk, in the form of numerous shrines, chapels, ornate churches and ‘carpenter’s crosses’. There was considerable religious intolerance here in earlier centuries, leading to the emigration of many Protestants to the more tolerant German states in the north.
The Queyras is famous for its honey (miel) – it is now a minor tourist industry – and numerous beehives will be seen on the walk. Woodcarving is another speciality of the region. There are plenty of examples of local handicrafts in the shops in the villages and hamlets along the Tour.
Further information on places to visit in the Queyras, and events and activities in the region, are available at local tourist offices (syndicats d’initiative, maison du tourisme or office de tourisme). There are tourist offices in Guillestre, Ceillac, Saint-Véran, Molines-en-Queyras, Abriès, Aiguilles, Château-Queyras and Arvieux.
Walking in the French Alps
Walking in the French Alps is well within the capabilities of the average British hill walker, and this section is included to encourage the potential first-timer to take a walking holiday in the Alps. This Tour in particular is ideal for those contemplating their first walking trip outside the UK – the majority of walkers return many times.
Following an old country track on the GR58 near Les Escoyères (Stage 2)
It is a fairly common misconception in the UK that the Alps can only be explored by the experienced mountaineer or alpinist, or that these mountains are the playground of the package-holiday skier. However, there are many well-trodden and clearly waymarked paths beneath the permanent snowline, threading through valleys, ascending to high cols and traversing ridges. There is a tradition amongst the people of central western Europe, who live far from the seaside, to take their family holidays in these mountains, and the paths are used by young and old alike, so British hill walkers or ramblers should not consider the Alps to be beyond them. If you can manage a walking holiday in the English Lake District or the Highlands of Scotland, then an Alpine Tour will be within your capabilities. Indeed, many of the Alpine trails are easier to negotiate than the rough, often pathless terrain of the Highlands, where there are few waymarks, and where Arctic-like conditions, even during the summer months, frequently occur.
However, there are also significant differences between walking in the Alps and in the mountains of the British Isles. Firstly, the Alps are at a considerably higher altitude. In Britain we are used to thinking in terms of 3000 to 4000 feet for the major peaks. In the Alps this figure is 3000 to 4000 metres, i.e. over three times higher. The highest point reached on the Queyras Tour is 3208m (10,517ft) on the Pain de Sucre, and even the lowest col is at 2251m (7379ft) above sea level (the Col de Bramousse). However, very few people are affected by altitudes below about 3000m (9840ft) – it is usually only above this height that altitude sickness and associated problems are experienced – so there is generally no cause for concern at spending a holiday at these relatively modest altitudes. Furthermore, although heights of 2950m (9000ft) and above are regularly attained on the Tour, remember that in the Alps even the major valley systems are at a significantly higher altitude than those in Britain. The village of Saint-Véran, for instance, at 2020m (6622ft), is over twice the height of Scafell Pike, the highest mountain in England, so the total amount of climbing in any one day is often no more than in the Welsh, English or Scottish mountains.
On the route between the Col de Saint-Véran and the Col de Chamoussière (Stage 4)
The mountains of the Alps rise steeply from the valleys, so climbs are often longer and more sustained than those in Britain. However, in many cases the ascent of a very steep mountainside is rendered relatively easy by a well-made path constructed of numerous zigzags. For example, the ascent to the Col des Thures (Alternative Stage 8) is greatly facilitated by a seemingly endless zigzagging path.
In most of the mountain areas of Britain, the nearest valley can be reached from the highest hills within two or three hours. The scale of the Alpine mountains, however, is such that it is often not possible to travel on foot from one mountain base to another within a day. To overcome this problem an elaborate network of mountain refuges has been developed, offering comfortable, albeit spartan accommodation in the most isolated areas of the mountains. The refuges are very popular – a tradition of travelling in these mountains – and making use of this type of accommodation is well established. There is no equivalent system in Britain, so the British hill walker on a first visit to the Alps will find the mountain refuges a novel, and hopefully enjoyable, experience.
The French Alps, and particularly those to the south of the country, in the Hautes-Alpes and the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, tend to enjoy warmer and more settled weather than the Swiss or Austrian Alps. This can present problems during the main summer months for the unwary walker who is unused to climbing steep mountainsides under the intense heat of a southern midsummer sun. Heat exhaustion and dehydration are problems that are not often encountered on the British hills, but they are not uncommon in the French Alps. Common sense and an appreciation of the danger are all that are usually necessary.
A word of warning must be given nevertheless. The Alps have claimed many thousands of lives over the years. They are large-scale mountains with plenty of natural hazards, and although the weather tends to be generally good in the Queyras, severe weather conditions can and do occur, often with very little warning – always keep an eye on the weather and take care where placing your feet. Most of the paths on this Queyras Tour present no particular problems under normal conditions, although some of the routes, particularly those on some of the optional excursions (for example, Le Pain de Sucre, Monte Granero, Tête du Pelvas), are very steep, and should only be attempted by those with suitable experience.
Any particular difficulties are discussed in the introductory summary to each stage and in the route description.
Grandes Randonnées
France has a very extensive network of long-distance paths, called Grandes Randonnées (literally ‘big walks’), commonly abbreviated to GR. Each GR route has been designated a number, for example GR7 or GR20. The principal long-distance trails, like the GR4 and GR5, usually carry a low number while shorter circular routes, variations or link routes, have two- or three-digit numbers.
Summit cairn, Pic de Foréant (Alternative to Stage 5 and Stage 6)
Trails in a particular area or in the vicinity of a one-digit GR all carry the same first number. For example, the major GR trail in the French Alps is the GR5 (a significant part of the 4850km/3012 mile European E2 route from Ireland via the UK, Netherlands, Belgium and France to Nice), which enters the Alps at Lake Geneva and continues south to the Mediterranean. The Alpine part of the GR5 is also known as La Grande Traversée des Alpes (and is the subject of a Cicerone guidebook – see Appendix 2).
There are several other GR paths in the French Alps, and these all begin with the digit 5, for example the GR54 (Tour de L’Oisans, which is also covered by a Cicerone guidebook, see Appendix 2). Other GR routes in the Alps include the GR52 (a variation of the GR5, from Saint Dalmas-Valdeblore to Menton through the Mercantour national park) and the GR58 (Tour du Queyras), which forms the basis of the walk described in this guidebook. A circular GR route is generally referred to as a tour.
There are also several three-digit GR trails in the area, which again carry the same initial digit, and often link routes to the longer trails, such as the GR541, which links the GR54 in the Écrins to the GR58 in the Queyras. (This system has analogies with UK road-numbering – M6, A65 and so on.)
Looking back down to Saint-Véran (Stage 4)
There are at least 65,000km (c. 40,000 miles) of GR trail throughout France, and the network is still expanding. In addition to the long-distance trails there are many regional, usually shorter trails, referred to as ‘GRs de Pays’, as well as an abundance of local footpaths, or ‘Sentiers de PR’ (Petites Randonnées). In all, there are well over 160,000km (100,000 miles) of country footpaths in France.
Italy also has its long-distance trails. The major Alpine route is the Grande Traversata delle Alpi, an alternative to the French Grande Traversée. Rather confusingly, these are both abbreviated to GTA. The Italian traverse runs from Carnino in the south, across the Argentera massif, skirting the Monte Viso region to the Gran Paradiso, and on to end at the foot of Monte Rosa at Macugnaga, near the Swiss border.
A second Italian trail of relevance to the Queyras Tour is the circular Tour of Monte Viso (Monviso in Italian). This starts at the Pian del Re, the source of the River Po, and circles the peak of Monte Viso and adjacent mountains. The route, which takes three or four days to complete, goes from the Pian del Re to the Rifugio Quintino Sella (for an optional and very long ascent to Monte Viso), and on over the Passo di San Chiaffredo to enter the Vallone di Vallanta (Valante in French).
The trail climbs in this valley, passing the refuges of Gagliardone and Vallanta, to join the route described in this guidebook. The Tour crosses the Passo di Vallanta (Col Valante) to enter France and descends to the Refuge Viso. Soon after this the Monte Viso trail parts company with the Queyras Tour to cross back into Italy at the Colle delle Traversette and descends back to the Pian del Re.
The Walking Tour of the Queyras, GR58 and GR541
The Tour of the Queyras described in this guidebook (henceforth referred to as the Tour) makes use of two GR trails and their variants and a number of non-GR footpaths. The two GR routes are the GR58 (Tour du Queyras) and the GR541.
The Standard GR58
The standard GR58 Tour du Queyras, opened in 1984, is a circular tour from Ceillac > Saint-Véran > Refuge Agnel > Col Vieux > Lac Foréant > Lac Egourgéou > La Monta > Ristolas > Abriès > Lac du Grand Laus > Col du Malrif > Les Fonts de Cervières > Souliers > Brunissard > Furfande > Les Escoyères > Ceillac. There are two alternative routes from Les Escoyères to Ceillac, both referred to as the GR58, i.e. either via the Col de Bramousse or via Montbardon and Col Fromage. The standard route of the GR58 lies entirely within France.
Variants to the GR58
There are also four official alternative routes (variants) to certain parts of the standard GR58. These are all on the eastern or northern sections of the route, and two of them enter Italy. The variants are as follows.
Pic d’Asti and the Pain de Sucre (Stage 4)
GR58A From Abriès to Souliers via the Lac du Grand Laus, Aiguilles, Chalvet and Les Meyries. A relatively low-level variant (except for the climb to the Lac du Grand Laus), but which involves considerable ascent, descent and re-ascent before joining the standard GR58 route before Souliers. This variant is not used on the Tour described in this guidebook.
GR58B From L’Echalp in the upper Guil valley to Abriès via Italy. The route enters Italy at Col Lacroix and descends to the Rifugio Jervis at Ciabot del Pra. The return into France is made via the Col d’Urine. The Tour in this book uses part of this route.
GR58C From the Refuge Agnel to La Monta via two excursions into Italy. This major two-day variant is from Refuge Agnel > Col Agnel > Soustra valley > Passo della Losetta > Col Valante > Refuge Viso > Col Sellière > Pellice valley > Ciabot del Pra > Col Lacroix > La Monta. A small section of the route is coincident with the Italian Tour of Monte Viso. This variant is walked in its entirety in the Tour described in this guidebook, Alternative to Stages 5 and 6.
GR58D From La Monta to Les Fonts de Cervières. This is a variant, and has been dubbed the ‘high-mountain alternative’. The route is from La Monta > Sommet de la Lauzière > Collette de Gilly > Le Roux > Col des Thures > Col de Rasis > Col du Malrif > Les Fonts de Cervières. The whole route of this variant is included in this Tour.
These four official variants are detailed here so that references to them on signposts or maps will make sense. Note that these variants are waymarked in the same manner as the standard GR route (see Waymarking and Navigation).
The GR541
The GR541 is a long-distance trail linking the GR54 (Tour de L’Oisans) in the Écrins with the GR58 in the Queyras. The two great massifs of the Écrins and the Queyras are separated by the wide and deep Durance valley, where the town of Briançon is situated. The valley also carries the main-line railway from Gap to Briançon, and a major route nationale, the N94. About half of the GR541 is followed in the Tour described in this book, namely the eastern section – from the Durance valley into the heart of the Queyras at Furfande. Not only is this a fine route in itself, but it also allows the walk to be started straight from a main-line railway station, without further travel arrangements.
There are two routes from the Durance valley to Furfande – the standard GR541 and the GR541 variant. The latter, which is used in the ascent to Furfande on Stage 1, crosses two high cols and passes a mountain lake, and is scenically the finer of the two routes. The standard GR541 is used on the final descent of the Tour in Stage 12.
Tour of the Queyras described in this guidebook
The walking Tour in this guidebook includes most of the standard GR58 and a large proportion of the major variants described above. Minor variants are taken occasionally (like that to the Col de Saint-Véran and the Pic de Caramantran on Stage 4) where the route and scenery are preferable to the standard trail. The various optional and alternative routes are all described. In addition, the Tour includes a number of optional ascents of mountain summits that are passed on the way, but which are not part of any official GR route. In all, the Tour crosses 24 cols and provides optional ascents of 17 peaks (see Overview Maps).
There is certainly plenty of variety on the trail, from woodland glades to rocky, high-level cols, from Alpine pastures to airy summits. The Tour includes two excursions into the Italian Alps, and there are opportunities to shorten or lengthen the route as time and conditions dictate. The route is ideal for those new to Alpine walking, while also providing optional challenges for the more experienced. Most of the day-stages are not especially long, allowing plenty of time for admiring the magnificent scenery or attempting an additional summit or footpath. Time is available at the end of a two-week holiday to visit Guillestre and nearby Briançon.
Walkers resting by the Lac de Souliers (Stage 10)
Climate – When to Go
The Queyras enjoys one of the best climates of all the Alpine regions. There are approximately 300 sunny days per year, and very often the mountains lie under a clear blue sky with uninterrupted views. Hill fog occurs less frequently than it does further north. Summers are warm, but because of the high altitude, they rarely become uncomfortably hot. Rainfall is relatively low, although low cloud and violent storms can occur in these mountains at any time, and the walker should be well prepared. The air temperature can change very rapidly in the Alps at altitude, and it can snow above about 2000m (6560ft) at any time of year, but for the most part, sunny, warm, settled weather is the general pattern through the summer months. The area does not suffer from the very hot and dry conditions experienced further south towards the Mediterranean. This combination of landscape and climate makes the Queyras an ideal area for high-mountain walking.
Briançon
Snow usually remains on the high passes until June, and even into early July in some years. Heavy winter snows return any time from mid-October onwards, so the season for the summer hill walker lasts from about mid-June until the end of September. Only the experienced and well-equipped mountaineer or cross-country skier should venture on this route between November and May.
Many of the gîtes d’étape and refuges do not open until mid-June (see Appendix 1). The majority of the French take their holidays between 14 July (Bastille Day) and 15 August (Assumption), so gîtes d’étape, refuges and hotels are likely to be very crowded during this period. The second half of August and the first half of September are possibly the best periods to go walking in these mountains. Snow is by then usually absent from even the highest cols and peaks, the weather tends to be warm, sunny and fairly settled, and the gîtes d’étape and refuges have relatively few guests, but still remain open.
On the descent to Les Fonts de Cervières (Stage 8 – Alternative Route)
After about the second or third week of September, several of the gîtes d’étape and refuges close for the year (Appendix 1), so if travelling after the second week of September it may be advisable to carry a small tent, although sometimes a closed refuge will have a permanently open shelter attached, as is the case at the Refuge de Furfande. Finally, those who wish to see the best of the Alpine flora should go towards the end of June, when the Queyras is one mass of flowers (but beware of snow on the high passes and peaks).
Travelling to the Queyras
For those flying to the French Alps, there are five main airports – Nice, Lyon, Grenoble, Geneva and Turin – all well served from several British airports by budget and other airlines.
From Nice Airport Take the airport bus or a taxi directly to Nice railway station and catch the train to Marseilles. The train follows the coastal route along the Côte d’Azur, passing Antibes, Cannes and Toulon, to arrive in Marseille after about 2½ hours. From here there is a connecting train to Montdauphin-Guillestre. This journey of about four hours is an attractive one, as the train heads northwards towards the Alps, via Sisteron and Gap. Taking an early morning flight from the UK to Nice also makes it possible to arrive in Montdauphin-Guillestre by the early evening.
From Lyon Airport Take a bus or taxi into the city centre. There are several trains a day to Valence, which connect with the Briançon trains via Gap to Montdauphin-Guillestre. The total journey time is around 4½ hours. Note that there are two main railway stations in Lyon – Lyon-Perrache and Lyon-Port-Dieu. Lyon-Perrache has the more frequent service to Valence.
From Grenoble Airport Take a bus or taxi to Grenoble railway station, from where there are several trains a day to Gap, which connect with trains to Montdauphin-Guillestre. The train journey time is approximately 3½ hours.
From Geneva Airport Mainline trains operate from the airport terminal. There are two options:
1 Take the train to Grenoble (approximate journey time 1¼ hours) from where a bus service operates to Briançon (a journey of about 3½ hours). From Briançon there are several trains a day to Montdauphin-Guillestre, journey time approximately 30 minutes.
2 Take a bus or train to Lyon-Perrache and continue the journey as described above.
From Turin Airport From the city there are several westbound trains a day to Modane, a journey of about 2 hours. There is no direct train line from here south to Briançon and beyond, so you will need to either take a local bus to Briançon and then pick up the train to Montdauphin-Guillestre, or take the very long train route via Grenoble and Gap to Montdauphin-Guillestre.
On the descent to the Lac de Lauzet (Stage 1)
Another possibility is train via Eurostar (or train and cross-Channel ferry) from London to Paris (or flight to Paris), followed by train to Montdauphin-Guillestre. There are several trains, TGV and other express trains, daily from Paris to Valence and Gap, from where another train connects to Montdauphin-Guillestre.
Train Travel in France
Timetable and booking information for French Railways (SNCF) is easily obtainable online (see Appendix 3). French Railways are generally fast, clean, reliable and offer good value for money. Prices of rail tickets tend to be reasonable (and not exorbitant when buying tickets from the railway station itself on the day of departure, as can be the case in the UK). Booking tickets in advance is advisable if travelling on French public holidays or during the main summer holiday period, but otherwise not usually essential for journeys to the Queyras.
If you are over 60 years of age, be sure to tell the person selling you the train ticket, as you are entitled to a significant reduction, usually 30% off the normal price of the ticket (you may be asked to show your passport). Also, remember that when travelling by train in France, you must validate your ticket by date-stamping it before boarding the train. This simple task is performed using the orange-coloured machines (composteurs) located on the concourse of nearly every French railway station. Failure to do so may result in a fine.
View looking north while on the climb to the Col de Furfande (Stage 11)
Coach or Car
There are two other methods of reaching the Queyras – long-distance coach and private car. Long-distance coach services operate to Geneva, Lyon and further south in France from Victoria Coach Station in London (see Appendix 3). Remember that if driving a private car from Britain to the Queyras, it will be necessary to find somewhere to securely park the vehicle for the duration of the walk. If your first and last nights are booked in a hotel, it is sometimes possible to negotiate with the owner/manager to leave your car in the hotel car park.
Local Transport
Public transport within the Queyras is reasonable for an Alpine region. A main-line train service (SNCF) operates along the Durance valley, north to Briançon and south to Embrun, Gap and beyond. Buses reach several parts of the Queyras, including Guillestre, Ceillac, Saint-Véran, Ristolas, Château-Queyras, Brunissard and Abriès, but services tend to be rather infrequent. Taxi services are available at Montdauphin-Guillestre railway station and in several villages and towns.
Baggage Transfer Service
Transports Petit Mathieu operates a ‘sherpa’ service for the Tour of the Queyras. A baggage-transfer service is offered, with rucksacks and bags collected from gîtes d’étape in the morning and transported to your evening’s destination. Limited space is also available to transport any walkers who are unable (or unwilling!) to undertake that day’s stage. Prices are in the region of €10 per bag or per person.
The company offers this service from mid-June to mid-September. All the standard locations on the route are covered, with the exception of the excursions across the border into Italy. Contact details and current prices are prominently displayed in most gîtes d’étape, refuges and hotels, and staff will usually arrange the service on your behalf. Transports Petit Mathieu is based in Ville-Vieille and also provides a local bus and taxi service (see Appendix 3 for contact details).
Accommodation
Unlike in most mountainous areas of the UK, there is plentiful good, reasonably priced and varied accommodation targeted at walkers and climbers in the Queyras region. The main forms of accommodation are gîtes d’étape and refuges, with hotels available in some locations. The ready availability of accommodation along the route reduces the need for and attractiveness of backpacking and camping on this Tour. Indeed, the lack of shops on the route means that campers either have to carry large quantities of non-perishable food (dehydrated food suitable for backpacking is not readily available locally), or eat in gîtes d’étape or refuges.
Booking accommodation along the Tour from the UK these days is relatively easy, thanks to the internet and e-mail. Many of the gîtes d’étape, refuges and hotels along the route now have websites and/or e-mail addresses to facilitate enquiries and bookings. Alternatively, the main tourist office in the Queyras (see Appendix 3) will also send out lists of accommodation on request. Up-to-date information on gîtes d’étape and refuges is best sourced from www.gites-refuges.com.
The Tour du Queyras is now a popular walk in France, and during the main summer season many of the establishments along the way may be fully booked, so if intending to walk the trail during July and August walkers are strongly advised to make reservations. At the early (mid-June to early July) and late (end of August into September) periods of the season, booking accommodation in advance may not be necessary, but it is always advisable, if possible, to phone for a booking one or two days ahead. If speaking French over the telephone is a problem for you, then either ask the proprietor of your current accommodation to phone ahead for you, or request the staff of a tourist office to do so.
The gîte d’étape (7 Degrés Est) at l’Echalp (Alternative to Stage 5 and Stage 6)
Gîtes d’étape
There are several thousand gîtes d’étape all over France, particularly along the GR trails. These usually privately owned establishments provide inexpensive accommodation for the outdoor enthusiast, especially the walker. It is not necessary to be a member of any organisation to stay the night, and generally no discounts are offered to members of any clubs.
Many gîtes d’étape are sympathetically restored traditional buildings. The typical establishment will accommodate between 10 and 30 people, in a range of small dormitories and sometimes in rooms for two. There are washrooms, showers and toilets, and usually a kitchen where food can be prepared. The dining/sitting room is the social hub of the gîte. These days virtually all gîtes d’étape provide meals of restaurant quality, and local food and regional dishes are often a speciality. The gîte d’étape generally provides very good value for money.
Most gîtes d’étape along the Tour du Queyras are only open for the main summer season, from June until September. A few are open all year and some open for the main winter skiing season.
Refuges
Walking and climbing in the European Alps is facilitated by a network of mountain huts (refuge in French, rifugio in Italian). The term ‘Alpine hut’ is hardly apt for these refuges, some of which are very elaborate buildings. Most of the mountain huts in the Alps are owned and operated by the Alpine Club of the country in which the hut is situated. In France this is the Club Alpin Français (CAF) and in Italy it is the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). A few of the refuges in the Queyras (for example Furfande and Agnel) are privately owned, and several are members of an umbrella organisation, the GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), to which some gîtes d’étape also belong.
Whereas gîtes d’étape tend to be located in villages or small towns, mountain refuges are usually (but not always) situated in isolated areas of the mountains, well away from metalled roads. They are often built to serve a particular need, such as to provide a base for climbing a particular group of mountains, or to service the needs of hill walkers on long-distance trails. The locations of Alpine refuges are marked on IGN maps.
Discounts are available in CAF and CAI refuges to members of the various European Alpine Clubs. Probably the easiest club for British walkers to join is the Austrian Alpine Club – UK Section; membership gives reciprocal rights in all CAF and CAI huts and includes mountain rescue insurance.
Walkers relaxing in the Refuge de Furfande (Stage 11)
Refuges are generally substantial buildings of stone and wood with unisex dormitories, a dining room/sitting room, toilets, washroom facilities, and most these days provide hot showers. Private rooms are increasingly becoming available. All the refuges on this Tour have a resident guardian during the summer months, and it is important that a bed space is booked, immediately on arrival, with the warden.
When the main refuge is closed (commonly from mid-September onwards), there will usually be a small unstaffed annex or ‘winter room’ (refuge d’hiver) left open permanently to provide shelter and overnight accommodation. The facilities available here will be fairly basic, and your own food and cooking equipment will be required. Some refuges re-open with full facilities in the winter months during the main skiing season.
General Information on gîtes and refuges
Most of these establishments offer demi-pension rates – bed, breakfast and dinner – which tends to be better value than paying for these items separately. Packed lunches are often available, usually to be booked the night before departure. Both gîtes and refuges generally provide snack, meal and bar facilities throughout the day during the main summer season.
Walkers entering Ristolas (Stage 7 – low level)
Blankets or duvets are nearly always provided in gîtes d’étape and in refuges. Clean sheets/duvet covers will not necessarily available, however, so some walkers may prefer to carry their own sheet sleeping bags (silk ones are the lightest).
Most gîtes d’étape and refuges have a hut or gîte book (livre d’or) in which it is customary to record comments about one’s stay. Entries range from a simple ‘we wos here’ to elaborate pen-and-ink drawings and poetry. Spare a few minutes to look back through these entries, which are often very entertaining. (Note how many British walkers have visited recently!)
Hotels
Hotel rooms are available at these locations:
Near to Montdauphin-Guillestre railway station
Montdauphin
Guillestre
Saint-Crépin
Ceillac
Saint-Véran
Ristolas
Abriès
Le Roux
Aiguilles
Arvieux
Hotels in France are star-graded according to a system very similar to that used in the UK. Most of the hotels in the area covered by this guidebook carry a one- or two-star grading, which means they are usually reasonably priced, clean and comfortable. Hotels are generally cheaper in France than in Britain. You pay for the room, so there is seldom a reduction if only one person occupies it, although if walking alone always ask for this.
Backpacking and camping
Those intent on backpacking, carrying a tent and cooking equipment, will discover that there are limited possibilities for camping on official sites along the Tour. Wild camping is not encouraged, and certainly in some areas it is severely restricted. During planning it is strongly advisable for potential backpackers to check out current regulations governing wild camping (camping sauvage) within the boundaries of the regional park. Information about the Parc Naturel Régional du Queyras will be found on www.pnr-queyras.com.
In addition to a small, lightweight tent, a closed-cell type of insulating mat or backpacking air-bed and a sleeping bag will be needed. If you are going to cook your own food, the most convenient type of camping stove to use in France during the summer months is one that burns gas. Remember that fuel cannot be taken on board an aircraft, and will have to be bought on arrival in France before commencing the Tour (spare gas canisters may not be available in the small village shops of the Queyras). A small cooking set and lightweight cutlery will also be required. Don’t forget a box of matches or lighter.
It is unwise for backpackers to assume that water from sources in the Queyras is safe to drink (see Water, below). Water taken from streams and other sources should be treated before using (remember that there are many large flocks of sheep in some areas of the park, as well as wild animals – see Wildlife, below). The art of the backpacker is to leave no sign of an overnight camp. Leave no litter and take care not to pollute water sources. Particular care should be exercised with matches and stoves, as forest fires are all too common during the hot, dry summers. Do not light open fires.
Food
At the time of writing, small supermarkets, grocers (épiceries) and/or other food shops were to be found in the following locations on the route of the Tour.
Near to the Montdauphin-Guillestre railway station, Stage 1 and Stage 12
Ceillac, Stage 2
Saint-Véran, Stage 3
Abriès, Stage 7
There were also food shops in Guillestre and Aiguilles, both of which can be reached by detours from the standard Tour.
Mountain peaks, including the pointed Tête de Toillies, from the Col de Saint-Véran (Stage 4)
Shops tend to open earlier than their equivalents in the UK (usually around 7.30–8.00am) and stay open later (often up to 8.00pm), but most will close for two to three hours in the early afternoon. There are very few other possibilities for buying food along the way, although some farms may from time to time offer items such as cheese or honey for sale (but never rely on this). Also, provisions may sometimes be bought from the guardian of a gîte d’étape. It is possible to order packed lunches at many of the gîtes d’étape and refuges en route.
Water
Water sources are found fairly frequently on this Tour, and lack of water should not prove a problem on most stages, although occasionally there are fairly long gaps where water is not obtainable: always plan ahead. There are water fountains in many villages and hamlets, and water bottles should always be filled when the opportunity arises. Temperatures during the daytime can be very high, particularly during July and August, and heat exhaustion and dehydration can develop rapidly when carrying a pack on steep mountainsides. Always make sure that you drink plenty of water.
It is wise to assume that water taken from streams and rivers is potentially unsafe to drink, particularly if there are cattle, sheep or goats in the vicinity. If in any doubt, add a water-purifying tablet to any unboiled water, allowing at least 10 minutes for the chemicals to react before drinking the water. Water labelled l’eau non potable is not suitable for drinking.
Equipment
The most important consideration, always, is to ensure that your pack is as light as possible, without compromising your safety in the mountains. Do not take unnecessary items; nothing spoils a walking holiday more than having to endure the excessive weight of an overloaded rucksack. Those who cannot resist taking a heavy rucksack are recommended to make use of the baggage transfer service (see Baggage Transfer Service, above, and Appendix 3).
During the summer months this region of France usually experiences fairly high temperatures during the daytime, but, at the relatively high elevations found on this Tour, it can become decidedly chilly on cloudy days and once the sun has gone down. For much of the time, shorts and a t-shirt will be fine, but warm clothing must be carried to allow for a possible deterioration in the weather, and for the evening. A waterproof and windproof jacket is essential, and waterproof trousers are recommended. A pair of thin gloves and a warm hat weigh very little, and could save discomfort or worse if the weather turns cold at altitude. Pack a pair of lightweight walking trousers, which can be worn on the occasional cool day or to protect sensitive skin against sunburn, and wear them while relaxing in the evenings.
The glare and heat from the sun can be intense, particularly during July and August and at altitude. A sunhat, high-factor suncream, lip-salve and sunglasses will all help to avoid over-exposure to the sun. To ensure that water is readily available during the day, at least one 1-litre bottle should be carried per person. The screwcap plastic bottles in which mineral water is sold make useful additional water carriers. Some walkers prefer a hydration system with a tube and mouthpiece that provides easy access to water.
Well-worn-in, good-quality boots with adequate ankle support are essential on this walk. Some type of lightweight footwear is also desirable for rest days, for relaxing in the evening and for sightseeing – a pair of good-quality lightweight trainers is recommended. Boots may not be worn inside gîtes d’étape or refuges and are discouraged in most hotels.
The rucksack, the size of which will depend on whether or not camping equipment is to be carried, is probably the most important item of gear. A ‘dustbin liner’ for the rucksack and a supply of plastic bags should keep the contents dry in heavy rain. Perishable food is best kept in a plastic bag to prevent the accidental soiling of the inside of the rucksack.
Walkers on the GR58 heading for the hamlet of Les Escoyères (Stage 2)
A small first-aid kit is important, as there will rarely be an opportunity to buy simple medicines en route. Include plasters, antiseptic cream, safety pins, a small bandage, aspirin/paracetamol, and anti-diarrhoea tablets. Insect repellent may also be useful. The first-aid box is a good place to store a whistle, so that it can be easily located in an emergency.
Some other miscellaneous items may also be useful. A small torch is invaluable for navigating a route across a sea of slumbering bodies in a crowded refuge. A mini French/English dictionary or phrasebook may help with communication.
A Swiss Army knife or equivalent will provide a sharp blade for cutting (bread and salami, for example), a pair of scissors, a can opener and a corkscrew (although remember not to pack it in your hand luggage when boarding an aircraft). A tiny sewing kit will allow minor repairs to gear. A compact, lightweight pair of binoculars is a luxury item that will be greatly appreciated in this scenic mountain country, and for observing the wildlife (such as marmots and chamois). Few would contemplate the walk without taking along a camera.
Neither an ice-axe nor crampons should be necessary in the summer months, although the possibility of freak weather covering the high passes with snow and ice can never be ruled out (and remember that in some years snow and ice can be late clearing from high passes). Outside the main summer months, an ice-axe and crampons would be essential items of equipment.
Maps
The official mapping agency in France, the Institut Geographique National (IGN), the equivalent of Britain’s Ordnance Survey, produces the following maps, which are of use to those walking the Tour of the Queyras.
1 IGN Carte de Randonnée 1:25 000
Three maps are required to cover the entire route of the Tour described in this guidebook.
Sheet 3637 OT. Mont Viso (St-Véran – Aiguilles). Parc Naturel Régional du Queyras.
Sheet 3537 ET. Guillestre – Vars – Risoul. Parc Naturel Régional du Queyras.
Sheet 3536 OT. Briançon – Serre-Chevalier – Montgenèvre. Only a very small part of the Tour is shown on this map.
All the 1:25 000 IGN maps are of excellent quality and are highly recommended.
The sheer rock face of Pic d’Asti from the summit of Le Pain de Sucre (excursion from Refuge Agnel)
2 IGN 1:60 000
Sheet 06. Queyras – Ubaye. This map covers the whole of the Tour du Queyras and also includes the Tour of Monte Viso.
These maps can be bought from specialist map shops in the UK as well as local and main city outlets in France (see Appendix 3).
Each stage in this guidebook is illustrated by a diagrammatic map of the route.
Waymarking and Navigation
Mountain trails in Europe are generally waymarked more thoroughly than the mountain paths of Britain. Most of the footpaths used in this Tour are part of the GR network, and as such are waymarked with a system of red and white painted stripes. These occur, usually in a horizontal position with white above red, on rocks, boulders, trees, posts, fences, telegraph poles, etc. The standard of waymarking in the Queyras is generally very good, and most of the paths are distinct and easy to follow. The walker should not continue too far without seeing another red and white waymark. If a waymark is not encountered for some time, it is likely that the wrong path has been taken.
In a few areas the waymarking is not particularly easy to follow. The section between the Col des Thures and Col du Malrif, north of Abriès on the alternative route of Stage 8, requires some care to avoid losing the waymarks. Also, the waymarking on the Italian side of the border tends at times to be inferior to that in France. In this guidebook the route description is particularly detailed in areas where there may be difficulty in following the route.
Remember too that paint waymarking fades with time, and so a route that was once easy to follow may be less so if the waymarking has not been renewed for several years. Conversely, at the time of your visit an area that was once poorly waymarked may be much easier to navigate if the waymarking has since been refreshed.
In the GR waymarking system various arrangements of red and white lines are used to signify different instructions. When two sets of red/white marks appear together, this signifies that a change in direction is imminent. This instruction is also sometimes indicated by the use of curved red and white markings, pointing towards the new direction to be taken. The painted cross, usually of one red and one white line, is an important one to remember – it signals that the route is not in that direction; go back to pick up the correct trail. Very occasionally a red and white mark bisected by another white line may be seen. This does not necessary mean that a mistake has been made, but rather that the route is a variant of the main GR trail.
