Читать книгу Alan Dunn's Sugarcraft Flower Arranging - Alan Dunn - Страница 8

EQUIPMENT

There is a huge array of equipment available, but you actually just need a few basic pieces. I have also added some information here on ribbons, wires, beads, etc.

NONSTICK BOARD AND FONDANT ROLLING PIN

These are essential pieces of equipment. Avoid white boards as they strain the eyes too much. Some boards can be very shiny, making it difficult to frill petals against them. If this is the case, simply rough up the surface using some fine sandpaper prior to use or alternatively turn the board over and use the back, which is often less shiny. I always use a thin layer of allvegetable shortening rubbed into the surface, removing most of the excess with a dry paper towel—this stops the paste from sticking to the board, and will also make you check each time to ensure the surface is clear of any excess food coloring.

SCISSORS, PLIERS, AND WIRE CUTTERS

For the projects in this book, you need three pairs of very sharp scissors: one curved, one fine-tip, and one regular pair. Fine-tip embroidery and curved scissors are very useful for cutting fine petals, thread, and ribbons. Larger floral scissors are handy for cutting wires. Small needle-nose pliers are essential. High-quality pliers work best—they are expensive but worth the investment. Electrical wire cutters are useful for cutting heavier wires.

TWEEZERS

It is important to use fine-angle tweezers without ridges (or teeth). They are useful for pinching ridges on petals and for holding very fine petals and stamens. You will also find them helpful when arranging flowers to push smaller items into difficult, tight areas of an arrangement or spray.

FOAM PADS

These are great to place petals and leaves on while you soften the edges—especially if you have hot hands that tend to dissolve the petals as you are working with them. Prior to buying this product check that it has a good surface, as some have rough, open-textured surfaces that will both tear the edges of your petals or leave marks on them. I like either the large blue pad called a Billy’s Block or the yellow CelPad.

WIRES AND FLORAL TAPE

Wires are available in many colors—I buy mostly white paper-covered wires, preferring to color or tape over as I work. The quality varies among brands. The most consistent in quality are the Japanese Sunrise Floral Wires. These are available from 35-gauge (very fine but rare) to 24-gauge (thicker). Floral tape is used in the construction of stems and bouquets. They contain glue that is released when the tape is stretched. I am quite fussy about which tape I buy. I mainly use Lionbrand Nile green tape. White, beige, brown, twig, yellow, pink, and dark red can also be useful. Some of the brands of tape are very harsh to work with—they have a strong, crayon-type smell and should be avoided at all costs, since they will hurt your fingers as you work with them.

TAPE SHREDDER

Some cake decorators hate this gadget. I find that if it is used properly, it saves a lot of time and energy. The tool contains three razor blades to cut floral tape into quarter-widths. I have a couple of tape shredders and have removed two blades from one of them so that it cuts the tape into halfwidths. It is often best to take a cotton swab and rub a tiny amount of cold cream on the blades as well as on the lid that presses against the blades—this will help the tape run smoothly against the blades as it can often stick due to an excess of glue left behind from the tape. It is also wise to remove any excess buildup of glue from the blades using needle-nose pliers, and also to replace the blades regularly. Handle with care at all times.

Modeling tools: (left to right) Dresdon tool (Jem), metal ball tool, small tweezers, large tweezers, cutting wheel (PME), Dresdon tool (PME), CelStick, scalpel (PME), needle-nose pliers, fine-tip scissors

PAINTBRUSHES

High-quality, synthetic brushes or syntheticblend brushes from art stores are best. I use mainly short, flat, not too soft bristle brushes for applying layers of food coloring dusts to flowers and leaves. It is best to designate specific brushes for certain colors so you don’t have to wash them after each use. A fine paintbrush is a paintbrush that comes to a pointed tip. You can purchase them at any art or craft store. (They are the same as what is used to paint on canvases.) I use finer sable or synthetic-blend brushes for painting fine lines or detail spots onto petals.

FLOWER CUTTERS

Flowers may be made using templates or freestyle techniques; however, the use of plastic or metal cutters will add speed and consistent accuracy to the shapes you create. I mostly use metal cutters since I can alter their shape if required to suit flowers other than the one it was intended to make. Many of the more interesting leaf shapes with serrated edges and intricate designs are available in plastic.

LEAF AND PETAL VEINERS

These are made from food-grade silicone rubber. They are very useful for creating natural petal and leaf texturing for sugar work. The molds are made using mostly real plant material to give the finished sugar flower a realistic finish. As with the flower cutters, there is a huge selection of commercial veiners to choose from.

STAMENS

There is a vast selection of commercial stamens available from specialty stores or online (see Suppliers here). I mainly use fine white and seed head stamens, which I then color using powdered colors.

POSY PICKS

These are made from food-grade plastic and are available in various sizes. They are used to hold the handle of a spray or bouquet of flowers into the cake. The food-grade plastic protects the cake from contamination from the wires and floral tape used in the construction of the floral spray. Never push wires directly into a cake.

MODELING TOOLS

Ball tools

These are available in plastic or metal. I find the latter more useful since the weight of the tool means that less effort is needed to soften/thin the edges of the paste. Use the tool to rub or roll the edge of the paste, positioning it half on the petal/leaf edge and half on your hand or foam pad on which the petal is resting. They can also be used to “cup” or hollow out petals to form interesting shapes.

PME cutting wheel and sharp scalpel

This cutting wheel is rather like a double-sided small pizza wheel. It is great for cutting out quick petals and leaves and also for adding division lines to buds. A sharp scalpel is also essential for marking veins, adding texture, and cutting out petal shapes, too.

Dresden/veining tool

The fine end of this tool is great for adding central veins to petals or leaves, and the broader end can be used for working the edges of a leaf to give a serrated effect or a “double frilled” effect on the edges of petals. Simply press the tool against the paste repeatedly to create a tight frilled effect or pull the tool against the paste on a nonstick board to create serrations. The fine end of the tool can also be used to cut into the edge of leaves and to cut and flick finer serrated-edge leaves. I use a black tool by Jem for finer, smaller leaves and flowers, and the larger yellow PME tool for larger flowers (see Suppliers here).

Ceramic silk texture random veining tool

I use a smooth ceramic tool from for curling the edges of petals and hollowing out throats of small flowers, as well as using it as a mini rolling pin. The silk veining tool is wonderful for creating delicate veins and frills to petal edges. You can use a CelStick as an alternative to the smooth ceramic tool. For the silk veining tool, use either a plastic petal veiner/friller from JEM (modeling tool 12), or a satay stick cut to size and sanded with fine sandpaper.

Fondant and gum paste modeling sticks (CelSticks)

There are four sizes of these small rolling pintype tools. As well as being great for rolling out small petals and leaves to create thick ridges, the pointed end of the tool is great for opening up the center of “hat”-type flowers. The rounded end can be used in the same way as a ball tool to soften edges and hollow out petals. The CelCakes & CelCrafts brand CelStick can be substituted for virtually any mass-market fondant and gum paste modeling stick set.

GLUE

Nontoxic glue sticks can be bought from office suppliers or art stores and are great for attaching ribbon to a board edge. Always make sure that the glue does not come into direct contact with the cake. I use a nontoxic hi-tack craft glue to attach stamens to the end of wires. I feel that no harm is being done sticking inedible items together with another inedible item. However, the glue should not come into direct contact with the sugar petals since it will dissolve them.

NON-DRYING MODELING CLAY

This is basically the soft modeling material that I used to play with as a child. It can be bought in blocks of various colors from art stores and online. This medium should be placed into a vase or onto a thin board to protect the cake surface. The medium stays fairly firm but soft, which is great for arranging sugar flowers into as the flowers can be removed and rearranged if needed.

PAPER TOWEL RING FORMERS

These basic formers are useful for drying petals that require a cupped shape. The open loops allow the gum paste to breathe so it dries faster than if placed in a plastic container. To make, cut strips from paper towels and twist back onto themselves, then tie into a loop. Larger formers can be made by cutting a paper towel sheet in half diagonally and then twisting—these are useful for much larger petals that require support while drying.

RIBBONS, BRAID TRIMS, AND PAPER-COVERED WIRES

These are an essential part of cake decorating—they are used simply to decorate the base of a cake, to edge a cake board, or wired into loops to add into floral displays. They provide the decorator with a very quick and effective addition to a cake design. The color of most of these can be changed to match the color of the flowers you are using on the cake. Simply rub an anti-bacterial wipe into some petal dust and then run it quickly and firmly along the ribbon to change its color. This can be very useful when you’re working late at night and are unable to take a trip to a store to buy more ribbon. I keep a supply of pale ribbons that can be altered easily. Double-colored satin ribbon can also be very useful—it means you always have something that could be suitable for the design you are working on. Buying ribbons and trims can become quite addictive, but it does make life easier if you have a variety of colors and textures to work with.

OTHER DECORATIVE ITEMS

These include beads, metallic wires in various strengths and colors, beaded wires, decorative floral mesh, and crimped reel wires. There are also things like colored sisal fiber, which can be used to hide the mechanics of an arrangement or even rolled into balls or formed into heart shapes, and so on, and tied with decorative metallic wires that can be added to your displays, too. I enjoy adding these elements to my sprays and arrangements. They all catch the light well and add interest. However, care must be taken to use these items on pieces that will be removed from the cake prior to cutting. There has been a trend in recent years of pushing crystals and beads directly onto the surface of an iced cake. While this can look pretty, it is an extremely dangerous practice.