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INTRODUCTION

The aspect presented by this prodigious mountain is one of unparalleled grandeur, sublimity, majesty, and glory. It is doubtful if there be another such sight in this wide world.

Charles New, Life, Wanderings, and Labours in Eastern Africa

East Africa is most often perceived as a flat, arid savannah. Famous for its wildlife safaris and coastal resorts, it is also an extraordinary destination for lovers of mountains, trekking and climbing. Although the history of walking in East Africa is relatively young, the area is rich in potential and the continent’s high mountains are among the last secret places of the region.

Africa’s mountains stand as solitary peaks above the surrounding plains rather than amid a range of similar mountains. The single greatest attraction is, of course, Mount Kilimanjaro. Although there are many higher mountains in the world, Kilimanjaro is one of the highest volcanoes and the highest free-standing mountain on the planet, making it a powerful visual symbol and a quintessential African image. Rolf Edberg was moved to write that ‘Its might is strangely weightless. At a distance, the mountain can seem ethereal. When the sun is low and the clouds light, the mountain with its white shimmering cap seems at times to be floating in space. At such moments, Kilimanjaro seems almost supernatural in its beauty.’

For a lot of trekkers arriving at Kilimanjaro International Airport, the first stop for many on their way to the mountain, it can be quite a shock to be confronted by this new image of Africa. The massive bulk of the country’s highest peak dominates the surrounding savannah, looming over it like a colossus. Walking on the high mountains of East Africa banishes the notion that the continent is only covered in stereotypical tawny grasslands. As a result of its tremendous height and its location on the equator, Kilimanjaro’s slopes are home to lush tropics, temperate climes and alpine moorland, as well as barren high-alpine desert and permanently snow-capped summits.

The rounded, glacier-clad dome of Kibo (one of the three main volcanic cones that make up Kilimanjaro) is home to Uhuru Peak, the mountain’s summit, while the shattered, jagged spires of Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro’s second summit, rear up across the blasted, desolate saddle. At 5895m, Uhuru Peak is the highest point on the African continent and, consequently, one of the coveted Seven Summits. Yet it is possible to reach the Roof of Africa without any technical climbing ability. Would-be mountaineers hoping to top one of the Seven Summits naturally gravitate towards Kilimanjaro. With its readily accessible, non-technical slopes, abundance of porters and relatively mild weather, the climb to the summit is considered a moderately easy ascent in mountaineering circles. Climbers with a decent level of fitness, positive attitude and a body that acclimatises to altitude reasonably well have a good chance of success: nowhere else on earth is it possible to scale a mountain of such height without crampons, ice axes and a healthy fear of losing a few fingers to frost bite.

Yet surprisingly large numbers of people fail to make it to the top. Kilimanjaro is a massive personal challenge in defiance of the extreme altitude. Walkers climbing the mountain move through half a dozen environments and climate zones from tropics to polar, and back, typically in the course of only five or six days. By going up so quickly, you break all the rules of mountaineering, yet convention, the types of ascent typically offered by outfitters and the cost of spending each day on the mountain mean that climbers are willing to jeopardise their success by rushing to altitude.

However, the ascent is intensely gratifying and enlightening. Those who visit are amply rewarded by what they encounter: diverse and colourful scenery, stunning natural beauty, endemic flora, warm and friendly locals and a unique sense of isolation. This last impression is reinforced by the knowledge that only a little more than 150 years ago this vast mountain was part of geographers’ legend and remained unseen or unclimbed by Europeans. A giant glacier-capped colossus slap up against the earth’s hot equator seemed so improbable that in 1849 a German missionary hurried back to Europe with news of his sighting, only to be ridiculed. Verification took another 12 years. It had yet to be conquered by 1886, when Victoria had the border between British and German East Africa redrawn to gift Kilimanjaro to her cousin, the future Kaiser Wilhelm.

There is no independent trekking on Kilimanjaro and every ascent of the mountain must be made in the company of a licensed guide, who will inevitably be accompanied by a team of cooks, assistants and porters. These days it would be a stretch to describe Kilimanjaro as off-the-beaten path. Nonetheless, the mountain wears its celebrity lightly and an ascent of Kilimanjaro remains a gruelling classic trek with magnificent views that are unmatched in Africa. The real magic of the mountain is its stunning beauty and fascinating natural history. To make the most of your trek, walk slowly with your eyes open and you’ll come home with something far more important than a summit certificate.

PREPARATIONS AND PRACTICALITIES

View from Kibo Huts across the Saddle towards Mawenzi (Marangu Route)

Choosing a route

This book is a guide to all of the official trekking routes on Kilimanjaro. It describes in depth the six approach routes through the forest and heath/moorland zones, the Circuit Path (which offers an alternative to ascending to the mountain’s top and circumnavigates Kibo at 4000m) and the three summit routes leading to Uhuru Peak. It also details the available descent routes on the mountain. Each of these routes varies in terms of length, difficulty, what you will see along the way and of course cost but each will reward the visitor with stunning panoramas and an incredible variety of scenic wonders. All walkers must follow one of these established paths and note that some routes are ascent or descent only. Trekkers must be accompanied by a licensed guide.

Following the initial trickle of climbers to these slopes, the number of people attempting to reach the highest point in Africa has, according to the latest statistics available from Kilimanjaro National Park authorities, risen to around 60,000 per year, two thirds of whom tackle the Marangu and Machame routes. Such a statistic may horrify you, and conjure images of immense crowds, cramped campsites and litter strewn, eroded trails, but thankfully the reality is very different and every visitor to the slopes ought to strive to ensure that this remains the case.

Kibo seen above the camp at Mweka Hut on the Mweka Route

It is essential to select the route that is most appropriate for you. Be aware of the scenic variety, remoteness and popularity of each route, but most importantly, when choosing your ascent route, be aware of the degree of difficulty of that route. Don’t let a false sense of bravado or an overestimation of your ability allow you to select a route that is beyond your capabilities. If you are inexperienced, less fit, have never been to altitude or have previously struggled at altitude, you should tend towards one of the easier routes and consider the Marangu or Rongai Route with a summit ascent via the Marangu Route from Kibo Huts, or a longer approach such as the Lemosho Route that gives you more time to acclimatise.

If you are fitter, have some experience of walking and being at altitude you may wish to consider the Machame, Shira or Lemosho approach routes coupled with an ascent to the summit via the Barafu Route. If you are very fit and properly acclimatised you might like to consider one of the tougher ascent routes, such as the Umbwe Route, in conjunction with an assault on the Western Breach.

Tropical montane cloudforest at an early stage on the Marangu Route

Marangu Route

Historically the most common ascent was via the Marangu Route. This relatively easy five-day trip ascends Kilimanjaro from the south-east. The lower sections provide fine forest and moorland walking. The lunar landscape of the Saddle then leads to the foot of Kibo, from where the final summit bid is undertaken via the Normal/Marangu Route. You descend this route by retracing your steps. This is the only route on which all overnight stops are made in purpose-built huts. Since this is the shortest and cheapest route on the mountain, it is frequently very busy and there is the risk that the facilities along the trail can become stretched. It also has the lowest success rate on the mountain.

Machame Route

These days, the most popular ascent route is the Machame Route. This longer, six-day climb is harder and more spectacular. It climbs Kilimanjaro from the south-west and enjoys some of the finest forest and heath/moorland scenery on the mountain. The final push to the summit is via either the tricky Western Breach or, more usually, the Barafu Route. The stipulated descent route for this path is the Mweka Route. With its new crown as most commonly tackled route on the mountain, this path is no longer the wilderness experience that it once was. Nonetheless it constitutes an exceptional, fully rounded expedition and has a higher success rate in part due to the extra day spent on the mountain.

Rongai Route

Of the more unusual ascent routes, the Rongai Route is the easiest. This minimum-five-day climb, which has grown substantially in popularity over the last decade to become the third most popular ascent, is an excellent alternative to the Marangu Route for those who don’t feel capable of undertaking one of the more strenuous climbs. This is the only path that approaches the summit from the north. The path coils across the lower slopes and detours via Mawenzi, allowing you to explore this extraordinary second summit area more fully than on any other route. It then makes the final summit bid via the Normal/Marangu Route. Descent from the mountain is along the Marangu Route. Less heavily used and exceptionally scenic, the Rongai Route is a very fine outing on Kilimanjaro.

View of Kibo above tents at First Camp (Rongai Route, Naremoru to First Camp)

Umbwe Route

The Umbwe Route is the most direct, strenuous ascent route. As little as one percent of climbers on the mountain tackle this ascent, making it far and away the least popular. Climbing stiffly through the thick forest on the southern slopes of the mountain, it rapidly gains height and affords you little time to acclimatise properly. The summit bid is often made via the Western Breach, but is sometimes conducted via the Barafu Route. Regardless, descent is via the Mweka Route. For those who are fit and fully acclimatised, this is probably the most dramatic way to climb Kilimanjaro and experience many of its finest vistas. However, it must not be underestimated, since it poses a very real challenge.

Shira and Lemosho routes

Both the Shira and Lemosho routes approach the mountain from the west. They are variations on the same trail and merge above the forest on the Shira Plateau. The more attractive and enjoyable Lemosho Route is fractionally longer and allows you to ascend to the plateau on foot, whereas the Shira Route begins much higher on the mountain and accesses the plateau by 4WD vehicle. Both paths then either climb to the summit via the Western Breach or, more frequently, traverse the mountain beneath the Southern Icefields to ascend via the Barafu Route. Descent is once more along the Mweka Route. The Lemosho Route is longer than any other route on the mountain, and while being more expensive offers the best opportunity to acclimatise properly ahead of the summit bid and so has grown in popularity over recent years. The isolation and space enjoyed as a result of the remoteness of both trailheads, especially the Lemosho, means that these are still very good ways of escaping the crowds, at least on the early stages of the climb. For those climbers looking to avoid crowds for as long as possible, a variation of the Lemosho Route on the Shira Plateau that joins and detours around the Northern Circuit Path that circumnavigates Kibo at around 4000m, instead of the traditional Southern Circuit Path, allows you to keep well off the most travelled trails and allows a couple more nights of isolation and wild camping before you climb to the summit on a variation of the Normal/Marangu Route.

Porters on path between Horombo Huts and Kibo Huts, Marangu Route (photo: Vadim Petrakov/Shutterstock.com)

Circuit paths

While the Northern Circuit Path is very remote and rarely used, other than in conjunction with the Lemosho Route and an ascent to the summit via School Hut, allowing you to enjoy the mountain in peace, the Southern Circuit Path, which connects a number of the ascent routes with the final climbs to the summit, is a busier traverse that provides you with fine panoramas of the Southern Icefields. For those less concerned about claiming the summit’s scalp, a complete loop of the Circuit Path is an outstanding way to enjoy the mountain and explore some of its least visited features. However, you will need special permission to trek the full circuit and it isn’t tackled as a standard outing on the mountain or regularly offered by outfitters.

Costs and budgeting

Climbing Kilimanjaro is an expensive business. The Tanzanian government has understandably cashed in on the mountain’s popularity and has introduced a series of mandatory fees that must be paid before you can even enter the Kilimanjaro National Park. The charges to climb Kilimanjaro have increased exponentially over the last few years and the combination of park gate fees, camping and hut fees levied by the authorities have now reached well over US$100 per day.

There is no cheap way to climb the mountain. The fees are compulsory. In addition to these, you must also hire and pay for a guide and a team of porters through a licensed outfitter. All food and transport costs need to be factored in as well. On top of all of the unavoidable costs, you must also include the amount of money that you will need to tip the guide and his porters once the climb is completed (see Guides and porters).

Fresh produce at the start of the trek

The mandatory costs include a conservation fee (formerly the national park daily gate fee), which costs US$70 per day. You must also pay either camping fees of US$50 per night or, on the Marangu Route, hut fees of US$60 per night. There is also a compulsory rescue fee of US$20 per trip. You must also pay US$2 per person per trip as wages for each guide and porter that accompanies you during your ascent. Thus, the basic cost of a five-day Marangu Route ascent using a guide, assistant guide and two porters rapidly escalates to over US$600. By the time that your outfitter includes each member of your team’s wages, approximately a further US$150 for a team of four, and the costs for food and transport, you will appreciate how the cost of the expedition very quickly increases. On top of this, you will inevitably be charged another fee by, and for, your outfitter in order to make the business profitable.

When all of these considerations are taken into account, expect to pay an outfitter somewhere in the region of US$1350–1550 for a basic five-day Marangu trek. The Umbwe and Rongai routes will cost somewhere between US$1700–1900, while the Machame Route costs around US$1600–1800. The Shira and Lemosho routes are both slightly more expensive and will set you back at least US$2000. A trek with a top tour operator can cost far more than this and the sky’s the limit if you keep adding in extras or expanding your team.

It pays to shop around and compare prices offered by each outfitter. Prices are often lower if you walk as part of a group rather than on your own. In most cases it is true that you get what you pay for, and the extra money spent on signing with a more expensive outfitter may pay dividends during your climb. Bear in mind that if you book your climb in the UK the costs will be much higher for each of the routes up the mountain.

Western Breach and summit viewed from the top of the Lava Tower on the Southern Circuit Path

Kilimanjaro is fairly unique in that you pay per day spent on the mountain. There is no option to make a one-off payment that would then enable you to make a slow ascent and several attempts on the summit. Every additional day spent on the mountain is an extra cost. This can prove particularly expensive on the longer routes, and consequently groups may be tempted to race up Kilimanjaro in a bid to save money. By charging a daily fee the Tanzanian authorities have created a system that encourages people to climb too quickly, which increases the risks to individuals’ health. However, the additional cost is relatively inexpensive when compared to the frustration of having to descend without having made it to the highest point.

Don’t let the cost discourage you. The ascent of Kilimanjaro is an exceptional and priceless experience. Nevertheless, do consider spending extra on an additional acclimatisation day to ensure that you maximise your safety on the mountain.

When to go

It is possible to climb Kilimanjaro all year round but there are definitely more preferable times of year to attempt the climb. Ideally you will want to tackle the mountain during one of the two dry seasons that Tanzania enjoys. These last from mid-December to March and then from July to early October. During the dry spell at the start of the year, the weather is generally dry and warm, while during the middle of the year it tends to be dry but cooler. The hottest months are January, February and September. Be aware that even during the preferred months, the weather is erratic and difficult to predict.

The remaining months of the year fall within the two rainy seasons, when climbing Kilimanjaro is less easy or, indeed, enjoyable. The long rains (masika) last from April to June and the short rains (mvuli) occur in November and early December, when thunderstorms are common. During this time, thick cloud shrouds the mountain and there are heavy downpours on the lower slopes, which can turn to snow higher on the mountain.

Temperatures on Kilimanjaro vary wildly. At the foot of the mountain the temperature can exceed 30°C, while on the summit it can plunge to below −20°C. Wind chill and the moisture in the clouds that swirl around the summits during the day can then make it feel even colder than this. While climbing on Kilimanjaro, groups must always be prepared for cold weather and sudden storms. The high winds can mean that weather changes at very short notice and the exposed nature of the climb means that this can be very unpleasant.

Porters on the Marangu Route between Mandara Huts and Horombo Huts

At the equator, the sun rises and sets at a fairly consistent time throughout the year. Sunrise tends to occur around 6.30am and sunset takes place 12 hours later, at around 6.30pm.

As a consequence of these factors, the ideal months to climb Kilimanjaro are January and February, just after the major rains, as the weather improves and becomes relatively settled and the mountain is freshly covered by snow. Alternatively, tackle the ascent from June to October after the short rains; although the forests are frequently encircled by cloud, the summits are often clear. This second set of dates tends to be the most popular time for people to make an ascent of the mountain as it coincides with European summer holidays; escape the crowds by travelling to the mountain from mid-September until the end of October as numbers begin to dwindle.

Average monthly temperature and rainfall (Moshi)
Month	Max temp (°C)	Min temp (°C)	Rainfall (mm)
January	29	10	60
February	29	10	100
March	27	11	170
April	25	13	370
May	22	11	230
June	21	8	50
July	20	9	20
August	22	8	25
September	24	8	25
October	26	11	40
November	27	10	110
December	28	10	100

Silhouetted figures on Mawenzi ridge watching the sunrise (Rongai Route, Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Kibo Huts)

Having plumped on a season in which to make the climb to the summit, it is also worth trying to coordinate your climb with the full moon since the final push to the summit is conducted in the small hours of the morning. Almost all nights on Kilimanjaro are clear so climbing to the crater rim by moonlight makes the night time ascent more enjoyable and potentially even more beautiful. As a rough guide, a full moon rises at sunset and sets at sunrise, at about the time the sun actually becomes visible in the sky. Strong moonlight to illuminate the path during your ascent makes this the ideal time to tackle the last haul to the crater rim, however, the best conditions are probably a couple of days after the full moon as then the moon begins to set about an hour later each day. This means that at around 5.00am the sky is still lit by the moon and the critical section of the climb can be tackled relatively easily.

In order to coordinate your climb with the full moon and make the most of this period, those embarking on a five-day climb should aim to start the trek three days prior to the full moon and those completing the climb in six days should aim to commence their trip four days ahead of the full moon.

As you approach the crater rim, you may also become aware of the morning star, a planet (usually Venus), which becomes visible just before sun rise. The Chagga call this star ‘Ngatunyi’, which means ‘the star that guides nocturnal travellers safely home’.

Mawenzi seen above band of cloud at dusk from Kibo Huts (Rongai Route, Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Kibo Huts)

Pre-departure preparation

Kilimanjaro attracts a great number of trekkers who have never undertaken a multi-day walk, and certainly haven’t contemplated doing so at altitude. The mountain’s environment is regularly underestimated and the result can be fatal. Although many hundreds of people reach the summit without incident, many more don’t make it because they fail to prepare and then ascend too quickly and suffer from altitude sickness. It’s worth noting that Uhuru Peak is several hundred metres higher than Everest Base Camp, yet climbers in the Himalayas typically take at least two weeks to reach this height on Everest.

Getting to the top of Kilimanjaro demands mental preparation as well as physical fitness. Embarking on an ascent that will take several days and will culminate at almost 6000m is a very different proposition to a walking trip based in one place or predominantly at a single elevation. With a central base, you are able to choose whether or when to go walking. As a member of an organised group on a multi-day ascent, you will have a schedule to maintain and will be expected to walk day after day, rain or shine, whether you fancy it or not. There are few opportunities to escape if you begin to falter, other than to stop and descend.

Path across the barren, hostile Saddle towards Kibo Huts (Marangu Route)

The most efficient way to get fit for climbing Kilimanjaro is to trek up and down hills. Jogging helps to build stamina and endurance, although there is little you can do to aid acclimatisation, short of spending time at altitude. By walking frequently, at the very least your body is becoming used to the rhythm and rigours of life on the path. When planning your trip, also carefully consider including an extra day for acclimatisation. The additional cost is relatively inexpensive when compared to the frustration of having to descend without having made it to the highest point. Once you arrive on the foothills of the mountain and the path winds away from you into the forest and ever upward, you will be grateful for the preparation and will be able to open your eyes and mind fully to the incredible experience ahead.

Mental preparation will be invaluable when high on the mountain, exhausted and facing potential extended periods of intense cold and discomfort. There will certainly also be times of confusion and times when your western sensibilities are overwhelmed by the sights and smells of life on Kilimanjaro. In order to successfully reach the summit, you must be able to adapt to a whole new range of conditions and circumstances.

If you have significant doubts, forget it. Three or four days into an ascent is no time to discover that you don’t enjoy trekking. The financial outlay alone required to undertake an ascent of Kilimanjaro ought to be sufficient to ensure that you do think carefully about going, make suitable preparations and then savour every moment of the trip.

Porters on the trail above Machame Hut (Machame Route, Machame Hut to Shira Camp)

Getting there

Information under this heading is particularly prone to change, especially those details relating to air travel; schedules and times can change and routes can be introduced or cancelled. Make sure to check all of the details with a travel agent or the airline in advance of making a booking.

By air

It is possible to access Kilimanjaro by air from a number of directions, either flying to Nairobi in Kenya or to Dar es Salaam or, most conveniently, to Kilimanjaro International Airport in Tanzania. Many trekkers fly to Nairobi, taking advantage of the more frequent flights and the cheaper deals. From here there are daily land and air connections to Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro Airport. It is in fact far easier to access Arusha or Moshi by road from Nairobi than it is from Dar es Salaam (see ‘By land’ section).

If you are flying from Europe, it takes 10–14 hours to fly to Tanzania, depending on the route taken and the number of stops made. However, because Tanzania is only three hours ahead of GMT (two hours ahead of British Summer Time), there is minimal jet lag to overcome.

Kilimanjaro International Airport is around 40km west of Moshi and 50km east of Arusha, to the south-west of the mountain. It has a small terminal that can be easily negotiated and all essential facilities including restaurants, cafés, shops, ATMs and a bureau de change. Currently Kilimanjaro International Airport is serviced by KLM (www.klm.com), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com) and Precision Air (www.precisionairtz.com). Precision Air is now partnered with Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com), so you can fly Kenya Airways to Nairobi daily and then onwards to Kilimanjaro with Precision Air. Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com) operate a daily service and are a good bet if travelling from Asia. Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) offer some of the lowest fares but also some of the most antisocial arrival and departure times. Air Tanzania (www.airtanzania.co.tz) currently aren’t operating any flights to Kilimanjaro Airport although they regularly announce that they may start up.

Kibo (photo: UbjsP/Shutterstock.com)

When flying into Kilimanjaro airport from the north, try to sit on the left-hand side of the plane so that when arriving by day (if it’s clear) you will be able to have fantastic views of the mountain. If you are unlucky and end up on the right-hand side of the plane, content yourself with views of Lake Turkana in the north of Kenya. Lake Turkana is the world’s largest permanent desert lake and is about an hour’s flight north of Kilimanjaro.

The cheapest time of year to travel to East Africa is typically between January and May. Flights tend to be heavily booked and occasionally sold out between late June and late August. If you wish to travel during this time, make sure that you book your flights well in advance.

Once you have arrived at Kilimanjaro Airport or Dar es Salaam, there are a number of bus connections that you can take that will shuttle you to Arusha or Moshi, from where you can commence your climb. Alternatively, your outfitter may arrange for you to be collected and transferred to the foot of the mountain. From Kilimanjaro Airport there is a shuttle bus for Precision Air passengers; other arrivals must wait for the shuttle services from Nairobi to Moshi that come via Arusha and the airport, or take a taxi into Moshi, which takes about 45mins (expect to pay around $50). Alternatively, pre-arrange a transfer with your hotel or tour operator. (For information on travelling on from Nairobi to Arusha or Moshi see the ‘By land’ section.)

If you are flying out of Tanzania, you will be required to pay departure tax. The tax is only levied on flights, not overland departures from the country, and is usually incorporated into the price of your ticket.

From the UK

Currently, the only direct flights from the UK to Tanzania are with British Airways (www.ba.com), who fly from Heathrow.

There are however a number of one-stop options that detour via various European, Middle Eastern and African cities. Emirates (www.emiratesairline.com), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com), Egyptair (www.egyptair.com), South African Airways (www.flysaa.com), Gulf Air (www.gulfair.com) and Swissair (www.swissair.com) are all worth comparing.

The cheapest direct flights to Nairobi are also currently with British Airways. Kenya Airways also run comparably priced direct flights. Alternatively, Emirates, Ethiopian Airlines, Egyptair and Gulf Air offer one-stop flights.

From Ireland

If you are flying from Ireland to Dar es Salaam or Nairobi, British Airways (www.ba.com) will sell you a through ticket from Belfast or Dublin. There are also convenient through-connections from Dublin to Nairobi with KLM (www.klm.com).

From North America

There are currently no direct flights from North America to East Africa. To reach Tanzania from North America you must change planes and possibly even airlines. The quickest route is to fly from New York via London with British Airways (www.ba.com). Otherwise, fly from New York via Amsterdam with North Western (www.nwal.ca) and KLM (www.klm.com). Regardless, the total journey time is still going to be over 20 hours. Fares for these routes are universally expensive.

The alternative to these routes is to fly to a different African destination, such as Addis Ababa (Ethiopian Airlines, www.ethiopianairlines.com) or Cairo (Egyptair, www.egyptair.com), and then continue your journey from there.

A jacaranda tree towering over shacks on a street in Arusha

From Australia and New Zealand

If travelling from Australia or New Zealand to Tanzania you will have to stop over in Asia, Southern Africa or the Middle East. The best deals are usually to be had either with Gulf Air (www.gulfair.com), who fly via Singapore and Bahrain, Egyptair (www.egyptair.com), who fly via Bangkok and Cairo, or Emirates (www.emiratesairline.com), who fly via Dubai, although none of these options are cheap. It is quicker, but more expensive, to fly with Air Zimbabwe (www.airzimbabwe.aero) via Harare. Alternatively, fly to Johannesburg with Qantas (www.qantas.com) or South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) and pick up a connecting flight to Dar es Salaam from there.

By land

An alternative and easy way of accessing Kilimanjaro is to fly to Nairobi and then travel overland to Arusha or Moshi in Tanzania. The shuttle bus service is cheap and reliable. There are a couple of companies plying the same route, most of them operating 20-seat buses and offering a twice daily service from their offices in the centre of Nairobi. The companies will often offer to collect you from your hotel or from one of the main hotels in town, usually the New Stanley or the Norfolk. The buses cross the border at Namanga and then travel to Arusha, where they pause at the Novotel Hotel and where you may have to change bus, before continuing on to Moshi via Kilimanjaro International Airport. The journey to Arusha takes between five and six hours and the onward trip to Moshi, via the airport, takes a further one and half to two hours – potholes, punctures and breakdowns allowing. A single ticket costs around US$35.

The border crossing at Namanga is straightforward enough, although it is usually slow and time consuming. The crossing has been cleaned up considerably over the years and is now much safer and less hostile to pass through. The large numbers of beggars, sellers, charlatans and thieves that used to congregate here have been dispersed. There are still a number of Maasai that loiter, but generally the crossing is hassle free.

At the border you will need to queue for a visa stamp and to have your baggage checked. You only ever need to pay for the visa. There are no other border fees or payments to be made, no matter what anyone tells you at the time.

In addition to the regular public buses that are run by the bus company Akamba and depart from the hectic River Road area of central Nairobi early in the morning, there are some companies that operate shuttle runs from Nairobi into Tanzania. By using these companies rather than the public buses, you are forced to pay a little extra, but are then able to board the buses in the comparative safety of downtown Nairobi. The best known and most established is Riverside, although another operator, Impala, is also a good bet. There are services provided by smaller companies too including AA Luxury Shuttle Bus, East Africa Shuttles, Nairobi Arusha Shuttle Transport Company and Regional Luxury Shuttle. Most of the company websites have booking facilities, timetables, prices and information about where to meet the buses. See Appendix B for a list of outfitters.

A view of the Western Breach and summit amid cloud as seen on the Southern Circuit Path

Permits and visas

Tanzanian visas

Most nationalities require a visa to enter Tanzania. The UK is no exception. Kenyans, Ugandans and the Irish are exempt. The visa should be obtained in advance of your arrival. This can be done in person or by post from any Tanzanian embassy, consulate or High Commission. It is possible to download the application form in advance from the High Commission website, http://tanzaniahighcomm.co.uk (see Appendix B for contact details). The visa application desks are generally open from 10.00am to 12.30pm Monday to Friday. The visa request takes 24 hours to process and requires two passport photos and a passport that is valid for at least six months. A three-month single entry visa costs £40; £50 for a next day service or £60 for a same day service. A multiple entry visa costs roughly double that.

It is possible to get a visa on arrival in Tanzania, but only at a couple of entry points. You may also have to explain why you didn’t get one in advance if there is a Tanzanian High Commission in your home country. The immigration points at Tanzania’s three international airports (Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar) and several of the major land border crossing points, including Namanga, are authorised to issue visas. If you are applying for a visa upon entry to Tanzania, US dollars are the most readily accepted currency, although sterling is usually accepted as well. Your passport will then be stamped to show how long you are allowed to remain in Tanzania.

As long as your Tanzanian visa remains valid, you can visit Kenya or Uganda and then return to Tanzania without having to reapply for another visa. You will still need to have your passport and visa stamp checked.

Should you wish to extend your visa, you may apply at the immigration office in any major town: there’s an Immigration department on Afrika Mashariki Road in Arusha (tel 027 250 3569) and Boma Road in Moshi (tel 027 275 1557). There is no extra charge, you do not require any extra photos and the extension is usually issued the same day. If you have already spent three months in Tanzania, you will need an acceptable reason to stay on. The alternative is to quit the country and reapply for a fresh visa. If you are intending to stay in Tanzania longer than three months, you may be as well to apply for a residency permit from the Tanzanian High Commission in your home country in advance of your trip.

Kilimanjaro’s summit seen at sunset

YELLOW FEVER VACCINATION CERTIFICATES

Officially, Tanzania has stopped checking yellow fever vaccination certificates upon arrival in the country. While this is probably fine for the airports, it may be advisable to get the jab anyway and have the certificate handy if you are travelling overland into the country. Try to ensure that you have the inoculation done in advance of departure, in your home country.

Kenyan visas

If you choose to fly into Nairobi and then transfer overland to Tanzania, you will also require a Kenyan visa, www.kenyahighcom.org.uk. Most western and European nationalities, including the UK, need to obtain a visa in order to enter Kenya. This can be done in advance at any Kenyan embassy or high commission, where it generally takes 24–48 hours to process and requires two passport photos and an air ticket that confirms your departure from the country. A single entry visa costs £30 and is valid for three months. A multiple entry visa costs twice as much. It is possible to secure a visa upon arrival at the airport in Kenya. This process is usually trouble free, but is very slow and time consuming.

Your visa allows you to re-enter Kenya after visits to Uganda or Tanzania, assuming that your Kenyan visa is still valid. This is particularly useful for those people who have a return ticket to Nairobi and are planning to use the shuttle services to access and return from Kilimanjaro.

If you wish to apply for a visa extension, you must present yourself at the immigration offices in either Nairobi, Mombasa, Lamu or Kisumu. It is only possible to extend the visa for a further three months.

Accommodation

There is no shortage of accommodation at the foot of Kilimanjaro. Most groups base themselves in Moshi before the climb. This is a small town that has benefited considerably from its proximity to the mountain. Set at just over 800m, it has grown to become a bustling, cosmopolitan place and is now the capital of the Kilimanjaro region. It is the home of the Chagga people and the centre of the region’s successful coffee production industry.

The town itself is open and relatively spacious. The central streets are wide and the general pace of life is slow, making it an attractive and relaxing place to spend time. There are a number of hotel options in town to suit all budgets (see Appendix A), making this an ideal base for the climb up Kilimanjaro.

Main A-frame communal dining and bunkroom at Mandara Huts on the Marangu Route

All overnight stays on the mountain are arranged by the outfitter – as a climber you don’t have to book or notify anyone of anything. Once you begin your ascent, your accommodation options are affected by the route that you have chosen to ascend. If you are going to climb the Marangu Route, then you will most likely take advantage of the huts constructed along the path. These are relatively basic structures that provide bunks and mattresses for their overnight guests. There are also communal dining areas, long-drop toilets, and, at the two lower huts, running water and solar powered lighting. More detailed descriptions of the huts and their facilities are provided in the description of the Marangu Route.

If you choose to climb Kilimanjaro by any other route, you will need to camp throughout your trip. There are designated campsites on each of the paths. These are usually situated close to water sources, frequently streams or pools and adjacent to an old metal uniport cabin. Outline details relating to these sites are given in the text wherever they can be found on the mountain. Each campsite has long-drop toilets in the vicinity.

It is worth bearing in mind that the final hut or campsite on the ascent will be dry, and water will have to be carried here from the last water points lower on the mountain.

Karanga Camp on the Machame Route (photo: Wallix/Shutterstock.com)

Money and currencies

The national currency in Tanzania is the Tanzanian shilling (Tsh). It is a relatively stable currency: for latest exchange rates see www.xe.com. When travelling in Tanzania you are best using a credit/debit card to withdraw money as this is the lightest, easiest and safest way to carry money. Most bank ATMs in Tanzania accept foreign cards, especially Visa, making getting hold of shillings easy. In case your card is lost, rejected by the machine or swallowed, it’s worth having a second card as a back up method of withdrawing money. Certain purchases can technically only be bought with US dollars, the preferred international currency in Tanzania, including plane tickets and top end hotel rooms but in the main you’ll find Tanzanian shillings easiest to carry and welcome in most places. When travelling throughout Tanzania, make sure to have a number of small denomination notes available as lots of shops struggle to break larger notes and sometimes don’t have sufficient change. On Kilimanjaro, there are limited opportunities to spend money but you might find a drink stop or entrepreneurial individual selling souvenirs at the gates, so have a number of small shilling notes to hand. You’ll need dollars to tip the team after the climb is complete.

Language

The official languages of Tanzania are Swahili and English. Swahili, or Kiswahili, has played a major role in uniting the people and solidifying the country’s sense of self. Swahili was adopted as the country’s national language after Tanzania secured independence. It has become the most widely spoken language used by Tanzania’s ethnic groups and provides a degree of commonality. English is widely spoken in the main towns and tourist areas, but is much less common in rural or smaller towns. It is the official language of commerce, administration and higher education.

Swahili is technically a Bantu language, although it has assimilated a number of Arabic, Persian, Hindi, Portuguese and English words. Trade and immigration have influenced and moulded it, and it is now the lingua franca of central and eastern Africa. It is surprisingly easy to learn and is pronounced as it is written, with the stress nearly always on the penultimate syllable. Local people are often delighted if you make the effort to try and speak a little Swahili, even if it is just to say ‘Hello’. Your guides will undoubtedly introduce you to a handful of phrases and essential words, most usefully the Kilimanjaro mantra, ‘pole, pole’, which means ‘slowly, slowly’. A glossary of useful words is provided at the back of this book in Appendix D.

Besides Swahili, there are a host of local languages that can be categorised in four groups: Bantu, Nilotic, Coshitic and Khoisan. The vast majority of Tanzanians speak one of the Bantu languages as their first language. The Maasai are the main speakers of the Nilotic languages.

Maps

There are a number of maps of Kilimanjaro itself available, both in Tanzania and abroad. Specialist map shops in the UK, such as Stanfords (branches in London and Bristol, www.stanfords.co.uk), carry a range of the best trekking maps available. Some of these are also available at the national park headquarters at the Marangu Gate or in the towns of Moshi or Arusha. Most of the maps that are available are general overview maps of the entire mountain and are not really of sufficient detail to be used as trekking maps. Nonetheless, they help to put the mountain and the various routes into context, as well as providing some useful and interesting details.

A revised edition of the ITMB (International Travel Maps) Kilimanjaro map was published in 2006. Drawn at 1:62,500 scale, it shows all of the main trekking routes, campsites, huts and water points. Colour shading to show altitude is combined with 100m contours and spot heights. There is a comprehensive index that lists many of the caves, glaciers, mountain features and surrounding villages, as well as some short text providing additional information about the routes.

You will also come across the Kilimanjaro Map and Guide by Andrew Wielochowski and published by West Col Productions. This double-sided sheet features a 1:75,000 scale topographic trekking map of Kilimanjaro. While similar to the ITMB map, the physical features such as scree slopes, glaciers and cliffs are more clearly shown here. On the reverse there are also more detailed maps of Kibo (1:30,000 scale) and Mawenzi (1:20,000 scale), in addition to text on the routes, climate, flora, fauna and suggestions for essential equipment.

View across the barren Saddle to the Kibo massif (Rongai Route, Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Kibo Huts)

The map of Kilimanjaro-Kibo by Sandra Greulich and Sacha Wettstein was published by Climbing Map in 2008. It is an excellent 1:80,000 map that combines topographic coverage of the mountain with an enlargement for the Kibo crater, a list of GPS waypoints, profiles of the main routes and street plans of Arusha and Moshi.

German publisher Harms Verlag produces a map of Kilimanjaro National Park and the surrounding area at 1:100,000 scale, with Kibo shown as an inset at 1:50,000. Ascent and descent routes are clearly marked, with huts and camps indicated along with altitude.

The Ordnance Survey produced an attractive map of Kilimanjaro at 1:100,000 scale in the early 1990s, although the overlaid route maps are not entirely reliable. Unavailable in the UK since the end of the 1990s, this map can still be found in Moshi and at the park gates.

One of the most readily available maps is the attractive, hand-drawn New Map of the Kilimanjaro National Park, drawn at a scale of 1:125,000, produced by Giovanni Tombazzi and published by Maco Editions in 1998. Although it provides a good overview of the mountain and the routes, it is not so useful as a topographic map.

If you are simply in Tanzania to climb Kilimanjaro, then you will have little need of a general road map of the country. Your outfitter will transport you to the trailhead and ensure that you are collected from the end of the track as well.

Equipment

‘We will trek over fifty miles, going from a few thousand feet to over nineteen thousand feet. During the course of our journey temperatures will range from 100 degrees plus at the jungle base to minus 20 degrees at Kilimanjaro’s summit, and we must carry the gear and supplies essential for survival in both extremes. Every ounce must be counted, every square inch of space put to utmost use. To take too much will weigh us down and wear us out on the approach.’

Rob Taylor

Climbing Kilimanjaro is in no way technical and no mountaineering skills or equipment are required to make the ascent. In addition, a team of porters will carry the majority of your kit and supplies, leaving you to simply transport yourselves and a day pack to the next camp. Porters usually carry more than one person’s gear, bound together with string or rope. Several outfitters now supply their charges with kitbags for the climb, so that the bags can be transported and identified more easily. Nonetheless, it is essential that you are properly equipped for all of the different stages on the mountain and that you recognise the need to restrict the size and weight of your rucksack to a manageable limit. There is a very real tendency for people to take far too much clothing and equipment on the climb. Just because you won’t be carrying it is no reason to overload your pack. Besides which, the porters are restricted to carrying 15kg, and if your gear comes to more than they can legitimately carry, you will be forced to hire additional porters at additional cost.

Your choice of equipment is important and can influence your chances of succeeding on the mountain. You must be prepared for all eventualities and have sufficient resources to combat extremes of temperature, exposure and weather. While shorts and t-shirts may be appropriate on the lower slopes, they are not adequate clothing at higher elevations and anything short of a full cold kit on the summit is potentially life threatening. It is worth remembering that while the daytime temperatures can be very high, at night the mountain gets very cold.

Porters with their full packs walking through the forest to Mandara Huts (Marangu Route, Marangu Gate to Mandara Huts)

A warm sleeping bag, and if camping a good ground mat, can drastically improve your chances of getting a reasonable night’s sleep when camping at altitude. You should also expect rainfall at some stage. Waterproof clothing is essential to prevent the disruption of, or even early termination of, your climb: good waterproofs are an indispensable part of any Kilimanjaro climber’s clothing. They are essential for protection against rain or snowfall, but also double up as a windproof outer layer. Jacket and trousers made from waterproof, breathable fabric are ideal for this purpose.

The type of boot that you wear can be critical to your enjoyment and success. Your boots should be comfortable, medium to heavyweight and of a good fit. It is essential that they are well broken in before your departure, in order to minimise the likelihood of you developing blisters during the trek. The boots must provide good ankle support and have thick lug soles that give a degree of cushioning and excellent grip. Leather walking boots or indeed any other type of waterproof boot are ideal, since some of the ascent is through damp, wet forest or heath and the possibility of heavy rain can not be discounted. Make sure that there is enough room to prevent your toes hitting the front of the boot when descending a steep slope. You should also carry sandals or other lightweight footwear to change into at the hut or campsite.

Gaiters are a very sound investment prior to your ascent. The early stages in the forest can be exceptionally muddy and the use of gaiters helps to keep your feet dry and thus prevents potential blisters. On the heath/moorland, highland desert and summit ascent there are large quantities of scree and gravel to be negotiated. Gaiters worn on these sections will stop the small shards of lava or rock from getting inside your footwear. The descent from the crater rim is on loose scree and the passage of feet tends to result in quantities of fine, penetrating dust being kicked up. Gaiters will once again prevent this material from getting into your boots.

A lot of walkers now use telescopic trekking poles. These are very useful when ascending or more particularly descending, steep or scree slopes. They provide extra balance and help to support your weight, taking the pressure off your knees. Use one or two poles, depending on your own personal preference.

Second Cave sign with packs and poles (Rongai Route, First Camp to Kikelewa Cave)

All climbers should also take a fleece or insulated jacket to wear in the evenings or on the upper slopes of the mountain. In order to combat the fluctuating temperatures on the mountain, adopt a layering policy when dressing. It is always easier to take something off than it is to put it on. A woollen hat or balaclava, scarf and gloves are also a good idea.

In addition to protective gear that combats the cold and wet, you should also have sufficient equipment to be able to endure extremes of sunshine and heat. The sun on the equator and at altitude is very strong. A brimmed hat, sun cream (factor 15+), lip salve and sunglasses are vital.

In addition to these items of clothing and kit, a first aid kit should be carried so that you can patch up minor injuries, such as blisters, cuts and grazes, or trail ailments (see Health considerations). A water bottle with at least a two-litre capacity is also essential. For the final ascent to the crater rim you will require a headtorch, which is also useful when moving about inside your tent or around the campsite. Make sure to bring spare batteries and a spare bulb with you. Additionally, a whistle is useful for attracting attention if you are lost or separated from your group. A small amount of emergency, high energy food, such as chocolate or nuts, ought to be carried as well. A penknife is also a handy tool to have. Plastic bags to store your rubbish in are also a good idea.

While on the mountain, secure all of your valuable or important possessions in waterproof bags. This will ensure that they remain dry in the eventuality of rain or your pack leaking. At short notice a dustbin bag will double up as a pack liner.

Although you won’t be carrying your full size pack, try to ensure that it is in good condition and is waterproof. The porters may or may not choose to carry it in the conventional manner. A sturdy day pack is essential. Make sure that it fits comfortably and is easily adjustable. It need not be especially large, 30 to 40-litre capacity is sufficient, but do make sure that it can contain all of your cameras, maps, water supplies, some food, additional clothing, waterproofs and sun cream.

EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST

Clothing: boots and spare laces, light shoes or sandals, down jacket, fleece or jumper, shirts (t-shirts and long-sleeved collared shirts), socks, trekking trousers, waterproof jacket and overtrousers, underwear (including thermals), gloves, woollen hat or balaclava, wide-brimmed hat.

Essential items: passport, rucksack, day pack, trekking poles, gaiters, sleeping bag (3 season+), floor mat, water bottle (2 litre+), water purifying tablets, headtorch, batteries, bulbs, first aid kit, penknife, lighter, sunglasses, sun cream (factor 15+), lip salve, towel and wash bag, money belt, map, whistle, toilet paper, plastic bags.

Optional items: camera, binoculars, altimeter, compass, notebook and pen, ear plugs, waterproof pack cover, spare pair of prescription glasses.

Insurance

It is wise to take out a good insurance policy. When researching insurance policies, make sure that you mention that you are going to climb Kilimanjaro. Although this may result in an increase in your premium, it will at least ensure that you are covered in case of an accident on the mountain. Make sure that you take a copy of the policy and that it is accessible to a friend or family member.

Health considerations

‘We were turning into geezers. Ratty beards sprouted. Fingers swelled. Faces grew puffy and wrinkled. Our rest steps slowed to funereal pace. We got gaseous … Why do people put themselves through this wringer?’

Tom Dunkel

FIRST AID KIT

 Plasters

 Blister kit

 Bandages (both cotton gauze and elastic)

 Knee supports

 Antiseptic cream

 Aspirin or paracetamol

 Throat lozenges

 Imodium

 Iodine tablets

 Sun cream

 Lip salve

 Safety pins

 Scissors

 Wet wipes

 Insect repellent

 Sterile needles

 Any prescription medicines that you would usually take in your home country

First-time visitors to Africa can easily become obsessed with concerns regarding their health. While the potential dangers of trekking in a developing country can seem overwhelming it is important to prevent these worries from becoming obsessive. In reality, Tanzania isn’t a particularly dangerous country and very few travellers experience anything more than an upset stomach. In order to minimise the risks of becoming sick, have the requisite inoculations before leaving home, make sure that you carry a first aid kit and adopt a sensible attitude to food and hygiene while on the trek.

Pre-trek health

It would be sensible to safeguard against the following:

 Diptheria and tetanus – usually a combined vaccination that is initially administered in three injections and is then topped up every 10 years.

 Polio – usually administered during childhood, requires a booster every 10 years.

 Hepatitis A – Havrix injection lasts for 10 years if you have a second booster shot after six months. Short term administration of gamma globulin provides immediate protection for up to six months.

 Typhoid – recommended for most parts of Africa. Available as an injection or as capsules to be taken orally.

 Tuberculosis – usually administered during childhood. The risk to travellers is low in Tanzania.

 Rabies – although there is a low risk of contracting the disease, it should be considered if you plan to spend more than a month in Tanzania, particularly if you propose to work with animals. It is a three-part injection that requires two booster injections upon being bitten.

 Yellow fever – recommended for travel in areas where the disease is endemic, including Tanzania. Only becomes effective 10 days after it has been administered. It is a good idea to carry proof of your vaccination, especially if you are entering the country overland.

 Meningococcal meningitis – recommended for travel to parts of Africa, including Tanzania, particularly if you intend to stay for several months or work among the local population. Not necessary for short stays in the country.

 Malaria – the risk on Kilimanjaro itself is low since much of the mountain is too high and cold to support mosquitoes. However, there is a risk of contracting malaria elsewhere in Tanzania and you should consult a GP or medical professional to gauge the risk posed to you. Your medical history, age and destination will all influence the advice given to you. Some anti-malarial medication is reported to have unpleasant side effects. Regardless, when on the mountain, especially in the forest and on the lower slopes, take precautions to avoid being bitten by mosquitoes. Cover exposed skin and use a repellent spray in the evenings to decrease the chances of being bitten.

Porters descending towards the Saddle to approach Kibo (Rongai Route, Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Kibo Huts)

There are a number of steps that you can take before you even leave your home country to improve your chances of remaining healthy. For fully up-to-date health advice and for information as to which inoculations are necessary, contact the Department of Health Helpline (tel 0800 555 777). Alternatively contact the Medical Advisory Service for Travellers Abroad (MASTA) (tel 01276 685 040, www.masta-travel-health.com) or the World Health Organisation (WHO) (www.who.int). If you would prefer to talk to someone face to face, approach your GP or try visiting the Nomad Travellers store and medical centre in STA Travel in London or the British Airways Travel Clinic, also in London (see Appendix B for contact details).

Remember to plan ahead when getting vaccinations. Some vaccinations need more than one injection and others can not be administered together. Currently, Tanzania makes no requirements for visitors to show proof of immunisation, although in the past travellers have had to show a certificate of vaccination against yellow fever (this practice has officially been stopped – although you may still wish to have the vaccination).

On-trek health and safety

The majority of individuals who set off to climb Kilimanjaro complete their trip without any undue mishap. With the application of a bit of common sense and care, the mountain shouldn’t pose an undue threat and the worst that will happen to you is that you have to deal with a blister. However, Kilimanjaro must not be underestimated and its very real dangers should be taken seriously. In 1884 Harry Johnston prematurely wrote that on Kilimanjaro ‘… the most serious obstacles arise from mist and cold which would scarcely deter a cockney from ascending Snowdon’. He later noted on his climb to around 4850m that at one point he felt ‘as if I would never more regain the force to move, and must remain and die amid this horrid solitude of stones and snow’.

Although the path is generally well trodden and you are accompanied by a guide, the route to the summit passes through some wild and forbidding terrain. An accident here can have serious consequences. The national park authorities are understandably cagey about the exact death toll on Kilimanjaro, but it is likely that 10–15 people die on the mountain every year.

Crossing the Saddle from Horombo Huts to Kibo Huts on the Marangu Route (photo: Vadim Petrakov/Shutterstock.com)

At the start of each day, talk through your itinerary with your guide. Pay particular attention to the amount of height to be gained and how quickly. Don’t over-estimate your own physical ability or that of your group; it is far better to be realistic than optimistic in these circumstances. Make an allowance for delays, bad weather and innumerable photo stops to ensure that you have sufficient time to enjoy the day.

When trekking it is essential to remain hydrated. This is even more true at altitude, where the regular consumption of water helps to combat the effects of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Drink water regularly and continually throughout the day. Although mountain water and runoff is generally okay to drink, it is well worth treating all drinking water before you consume it. Boil the water for three minutes, treat it with iodine or filter it using a portable filter to ensure that it is free from contamination by bacteria. Bottled water should come with an unbroken seal (equally true for water drunk in the towns). A host of organisms are active in the waterways of Tanzania that could lay you low with a variety of ailments. The same precautions should be borne in mind with regards to ice or water used for cleaning your teeth.

A good standard of personal hygiene throughout the trek will also minimise the risk of you becoming ill or suffering from gastro-intestinal problems. Try to clean your hands and fingers before you eat. Carry a pack of baby wipes for this purpose.

Various pieces of rescue equipment at Kibo Huts

Carry a few emergency, high energy foodstuffs and a first aid kit with you on the trek. Keep an eye on the weather and be aware of the sudden build up of cloud or a rapid drop in temperature that may herald the onset of bad weather.

While following the routes up the mountain, stick to the approved paths. Try not to leave the clearly marked track and resist the urge to take a shortcut. At higher elevations don’t try to venture onto the glaciers unless you are properly equipped and experienced enough to do so safely. Make sure that you keep an eye on all of the members of your group and watch out for anyone flagging or showing signs of distress.

In the unlikely event that you become separated from your group or have an accident, stay calm and try to draw attention to yourself. The international distress signal is six blasts on a whistle or flashes of a torch after dark, spaced evenly for one minute. Wait for a minute and then repeat the sequence. Continue to do so until you are spotted. The appropriate response to the signal from someone who recognises what it means is three whistles or flashes evenly spaced throughout a minute, followed by a minute’s pause and a second set of three.

While climbing Kilimanjaro you will be subjected to extremes of temperature. Consequently, you must be conscious of the dangers of sunburn and hypothermia. Sunburn occurs quickly, particularly in the rarefied air and deceptive coolness of the mountain. Make sure that you wear the appropriate clothing and use sufficiently strong sun cream to protect yourself. Sunglasses can also protect your eyes from damage when walking on or near snow or ice. If you do get burnt, aloe vera or calamine lotion will soothe the burn. Continued exposure to high temperatures coupled with a low water intake can sometimes result in heatstroke. At the other end of the temperature gauge, hypothermia occurs when the body loses heat faster than it can produce it and the person’s core temperature drops. A combination of wind, wet clothing, fatigue and hunger usually bring on the condition. To combat mild hypothermia, retreat out of the wind, put on dry, warm clothing and drink warm fluids. Do not rub the casualty, allow them to warm up slowly instead.

Camp on the Shira Plateau (Machame Route) (photo: Potifor/Shutterstock.com)

Mountain Sickness (AMS)

‘Haraka haraka haina baraka’

‘Hurry hurry has no blessings’

Swahili proverb

One of the main fears that people have when climbing Kilimanjaro is that they will succumb to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). This is a very serious condition that can affect anyone. However, it is alright to get AMS in its mild form, and by being aware of the symptoms and by adhering to the rules of acclimatisation you can significantly reduce the likelihood of suffering adversely. Other forms of varying severity of this condition, which are described later, include High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE).

As you gain altitude, the air gets thinner, the pressure drops and less oxygen is available in the atmosphere. The drop in oxygen is noticeable above 2500m. ‘High altitude’ extends to 3700m and ‘very high altitude’ extends to 5500m, at which point there is only half the oxygen in each breath. ‘Extreme altitude’ is defined as being above 5500m. Consequently, as you gain altitude your heart and lungs have to work harder to oxygenate the body. Unfortunately, as you climb, this coincides with an increased requirement for oxygen in the tissues, resulting in a deficit. If you ascend slowly and carefully, your body adapts to the rarefied atmosphere and continues to deliver the necessary amount of oxygen to the blood cells. Most people have the ability to adapt to altitude, if they expose themselves to it sufficiently slowly. However, acclimatization takes different lengths of times for each individual and there is no hard or fast rule as to how long it ought to take to ascend a mountain. It is impossible to predict who will suffer from AMS. Neither youthfulness or physical fitness are guarantees that you won’t be affected. In fact, those young trekkers who forge ahead are the most likely to succumb to the debilitating effects of altitude. Generally though, effective acclimatization to any given altitude takes about a week while full acclimatization can take up to six weeks.

Another vital consideration is water intake. When climbing at altitude, you must consume three to four litres of water per day in order to avoid dehydration. A lot of moisture is lost as you breathe or sweat during the climb. Thirst is not a reliable indicator that you are suffering from dehydration. Instead, look out for signs that include peeing infrequently, in small amounts and the urine being darker and stronger smelling.

A failure to allow sufficient time to acclimatise is almost certain to bring on AMS. The best way to avoid it is to ascend slowly. In this respect, the Kilimanjaro mantra, ‘pole, pole’ meaning ‘slowly, slowly’, is wholly appropriate and accurate. However, there is no optimum period for acclimatisation. A conservative recommendation for climbing high is that above 3200m (10,000ft) you should ideally only increase the sleeping altitude by around 350m (1200ft) per day. It is also recommended that while ascending you take a break every two or three days by sleeping at the same altitude as the previous day. To maximise the benefit of this, you should climb higher during the day, exposing your body to greater altitude, before returning to sleep at the lower elevation. In this way, an ideal ascent of Kilimanjaro should take seven to 10 days to acclimatise properly.

Most ascent routes on Kilimanjaro give you a fraction of that time to reach the top. The ascent is generally far too rapid and side effects of this are inevitable. The summit bid on the standard Marangu Route begins after three days. This is almost three times as fast as the recommendation.

At altitude, it is best to assume that any illness is AMS, until proven otherwise. Early indicators that something is amiss include extreme fatigue, persistent headache, dizziness, a loss of appetite and disturbed sleep caused by irregular breathing. In its mildest form it feels akin to a hangover. A tendency to run out of breath after minimal exertion is also an indication. If any of these symptoms become apparent, the trekker should pause until they have passed. As long as the symptoms remain mild, ascent at a modest rate can continue. If they persist after a day or two, descent to a lower elevation should be strongly considered. If possible, strong painkillers should be avoided as they will mask these early symptoms meaning a potentially serious problem could pass unnoticed.

If the condition continues to deteriorate, the casualty will become even more lethargic, confused, disorientated and out of breath. They may have wet, bubbly breath. The headache will become severe and they may start to cough harshly, sometimes producing pinkish or rust coloured sputum. They may vomit as well. They will also suffer a loss of co-ordination, known as ataxia, and will be unable to walk in a straight line or complete simple tasks. At this stage, the victim is enduring the onset of either pulmonary or cerebral oedema, both of which can result in unconsciousness and death within 12 hours. AMS has been fatal as low as 3000m (9850ft), but most commonly occurs above 3500m (11500ft).

To camp in the crater adjacent to the Furtwangler Glacier (Summit Route) you must ascend slowly and steadily and acclimatise properly

High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)

HACE is a very severe condition. The brain swells and ceases to function properly. This can result in death very quickly. The hallmark of HACE is a change in the ability of the victim to think. They may become confused, disorientated or very lethargic. There is a characteristic loss of co-ordination, called ataxia, that most often manifests itself as a staggering walk. If the victim can’t walk in a straight line, even when not carrying a pack and on level ground, they should be presumed to have HACE.

The treatment is to descend immediately, even if that means doing so in the dark. Delay, even until the following morning, could be fatal. The casualty should be accompanied down at least as far as the last elevation at which they felt no symptoms of the condition. If uncertain, dropping 1000m is a good start. People with HACE usually survive if they descend sufficiently quickly and often recover completely.

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)

HAPE, another form of severe altitude sickness, is caused by a build up of fluid in the lungs. In addition to the usual symptoms of AMS, the victim may make a gurgling or rattling breathing sound. They may also feel a tightness around their chest. HAPE frequently occurs at night and may worsen with exertion. It is also common for HAPE to develop into HACE due to the extremely low levels of oxygen in the victim’s blood.

The treatment for HAPE is the same as for AMS and HACE. Immediate descent to a lower altitude is the optimal solution – even a descent of 500m and the associated increase in oxygen content of the air is often sufficient to reduce the symptoms to a manageable level. People suffering from serious altitude illness should be accompanied off the mountain – at no time should they be allowed to set off on their own. HAPE resolves itself rapidly upon descent and a couple of days’ rest at a lower elevation should ensure a complete recovery.

Trekkers on the Marangu Route often spend an extra day at Horombo Huts to aid acclimatisation and reduce the risk of AMS (Kibo in background)

If, when on your trek, you or a companion begins to suffer HAPE symptoms, it is important to descend at once. If the casualty improves sufficiently, they may be able to continue. However, more than likely, once the descent has begun, the affected person will not be allowed to continue up the mountain. Do not let this prospect cloud anyone’s judgement. Be willing to admit that you or your companion has altitude sickness. As soon as feelings of illness arise the symptoms should be recognised and acted upon.

Remember, the golden rules for avoiding AMS are: ascend slowly. If you start to feel the onset of symptoms of AMS go no higher. If the symptoms persist, descend at once.

Porters and AMS

While on the mountain it is important to remember that the porters can be affected by AMS just as readily as you. Although most of them have been to altitude before and are likely to be better acclimatised than their charges, they may still suffer from the condition. The fact that they are unlikely to know much about AMS, have a communication barrier that prevents them from explaining in detail how they feel and may actively conceal their symptoms so as not to lose their jobs makes them susceptible to the more extreme versions of the condition.

DIAMOX (ACETAZOLAMIDE)

Diamox can aid acclimatisation. However, it is not a substitute for a slow and appropriate ascent and should not be taken as a matter of course. Most people with a reasonable rate of ascent will not need it. You must seek guidance from a GP before taking Diamox. The dosage required is based on your body weight, although 125mg (half a tablet) two or three times a day is usually enough to have an effect. Diamox re-acidifies the blood, balancing the effects of the hyperventilation that occurs at altitude in an attempt to get sufficient oxygen. This in turn acts as a respiratory stimulant, whose end effect is to accelerate acclimatisation.

It is not a magic cure, however. Diamox doesn’t cover up the symptoms of AMS. Neither does it protect you from worsening AMS if you continue to ascend after symptoms have been diagnosed. Although it may reduce the time it takes for you to acclimatise, it will not totally prevent you from suffering from AMS. If you still feel sick after taking Diamox, you must descend.

If you take Diamox remember to increase your level of fluid intake as the drug is a diuretic and you may become more prone to dehydration. There are also several other side effects of using the drug. You may feel a numbness or tingling sensation in your hands, feet and lips. These may be accompanied by a ringing sound in your ears. These side effects cease once you stop taking the drug.

Selecting an outfitter

All walkers on Kilimanjaro must make the ascent with a licensed outfitter as independent trekking on the mountain was banned by the park authorities in 1991. There is now no independent trekking on the mountain at all. At the very least you must take a guide supplied by the outfitter, and the guide will require a porter to help carry all of the equipment and food supplies. Bigger groups will require much larger teams of porters, cooks and assistant guides.

Trekking on Kilimanjaro with a group is the norm for most people. It is always easier to undertake this sort of trip in the company of friends and is a very sociable way to climb the mountain. The companionship and camaraderie are highly desirable and can act as a positive incentive to succeed.

It is possible to organise a trip on your own, and use the services of an outfitter to obtain a guide. That way you can plan the trek that you want, without having to incorporate the wishes of others. Most outfitters will try to introduce you to a larger group and will encourage you to trek in the company of other individuals. Even if you do opt to attempt the mountain on your own, you will never feel completely alone. Campsites are communal and lively places and there is a great deal of interaction between groups.

Porters climbing above the Machame Hut on the Machame Route, with Mount Meru in the distance

There are a great number of outfitters that organise treks on the mountain, based both in the UK and in Tanzania. They are responsible for ensuring the success and safety of your trip. It is important that you choose one that you think is best suited to your needs. Climbing Kilimanjaro is an expensive expedition, so it is worth spending some time comparing and contrasting the various organisations out there before parting with your money.

The vast majority of people book their climb on Kilimanjaro before they leave their home country. This is the easiest, least hassled way of organising the trip, since nearly all agencies will sell you a complete package, including airport pick up and transfers, accommodation and the ingredients for the climb itself. They may also be able to sell you flights as well. This is the least time consuming option and means that you can make all of the arrangements well in advance. Inevitably this does cost a little more than booking direct with an outfitter in Tanzania, but the additional money buys you peace of mind.

Most of the outfitters and agencies in Tanzania are found at the foot of the mountain, in either Arusha or Moshi. The larger and more established agencies now have online booking facilities as well, which mean that you can arrange your trek from outside Tanzania. Arusha tends to be a little more expensive than its neighbour, Moshi, not least because many of the agents in Arusha are working on behalf of outfitters in Moshi and need to take their cut. There are also higher transport costs to the trailhead from Arusha as it is further away from the mountain. Moshi has the largest number of outfitters (see Appendix B for a selection of the better outfitters in Moshi). Many of these are affiliated to agencies in the UK. Booking directly with an outfitter in Moshi represents the best value in terms of how much you will pay and what your money will buy. As a result of the sheer mass of competition in the town and the fact that you have removed all of the middlemen, you are also likely to pay less than if you book your trip elsewhere.

Porters with supplies at Naremoru trailhead before leading on to the Rongai Route

The most important thing to bear in mind when booking your trip is that the agency must be licensed. Ask to see the licence and make sure that it is in date. A good way of comparing the different agencies is to ask other people about their experiences on the mountain. Check the visitors’ books and read the various comments. Shop around and consult several outfitters in order to get a feel for the types of service and price ranges on offer. Check the day-to-day itineraries proposed by the outfitters and, if possible, ask to see the standard of equipment that they propose to use. Make sure that you establish exactly what is and isn’t included in the price. All national park fees, rescue fees, hut or camping fees for both you, the guide and all of the porters that will accompany you should be included. Food and drinks for the entire trip should also be part of the proposed deal, as should all equipment hire costs and the price of being transported to and from the trailhead by the outfitter. Most of the established reputable outfitters will have standard contracts that stipulate all of this information, so that you know what you are signing yourself up for.

Guides and porters

The outlawing of independent trekking on Kilimanjaro ensured that groups were no longer allowed to pitch up at the foot of the mountain and just start climbing. Nowadays, all ascents must be conducted with a guide and usually with a team of porters who carry all of the team’s equipment and food up the mountain on their heads and backs. Trekkers only shoulder a modest day pack and yet there are times on the mountain when even that will seem like a Sisyphean burden. Kilimanjaro National Park recommends that each individual making an ascent of the mountain does so with at least one or two porters. The guide will stay with you throughout the climb, accompanying you right to the summit should you be fortunate enough to make it that far. The porters will climb as far as the top camp, then wait for you to return from the summit bid before descending with you.

Porters gathered at the foot of the mountain

Climbing the mountain with a guide and porters is nothing new. In 1889, Hans Meyer was accompanied by a team of porters and guides. The group was led by 18-year-old Yohana Kinyala Lauwo, supported by an assistant, Jonathan Mtui, and several porters: Elia Minja, Tom Mosha, Makalio Lyimo and Mamba Kowera. Their names are commemorated on a plaque at the Marangu Gate. Lauwo went on to guide people up the mountain for most of his life. He was present at the centennial celebrations when he was honoured in recognition of his role in the first ever ascent of the mountain. He died, allegedly aged 125, in 1996. The first Chagga to actually stand on the summit were the guides Oforo and Jonathan, who did so in 1925 and have been credited with the 11th and 12th ascents.

The guides and porters are often interesting and entertaining companions, whose easy humour, ready laugh and knowledge of the mountain and the area can enhance your trip. Most are affiliated to one or other of the outfitters at the foot of the mountain. All guides must be registered with the national park authorities and will have a permit which confirms that. They are drawn from all walks of life and represent a broad spectrum of ages, tribes and backgrounds. That said, most of the porters are members of the Chagga tribe. Many are youngsters in their late teens and early twenties. Others have worked on the mountain for a decade or more.

Many porters volunteer to climb Kilimanjaro to supplement the income they generate from farming. Others are freelancers who have no other job. The role of porter is by no means a demeaning one and has long been a major source of employment in the Kilimanjaro region. In an area where the unemployment rate is around 80%, it is a respectable and comparatively well paid job and money earned in tips supplements pay. Porters usually receive US$5–7 per day, although the official rate of pay is US$10. Cooks and assistant guides earn US$6–8 (official rate: US$15) and guides can expect to be paid US$8–9 per day (official rate: US$20). There have been attempts to enforce the official wages but the likelihood of the official salaries being standardised and applied across the board is very slim.

Porters are also often open to exploitation. Hopefully you’ll be slightly more considerate towards your team than HW Tilman, who noted on his return to Gillman’s Point from higher on the crater rim: ‘We picked up the patient Solomon, now the colour of a mottled and overripe Victoria plum, and at twelve o’clock started down.’ There is never enough work on the mountain to go round and competition to become a porter is fierce. Only by serving an apprenticeship as a porter will they become an assistant guide and have a chance to progress to the level of guide. Although there are regulations in place to try to preserve porters’ rights, these are sometimes flouted by unscrupulous outfitters or guides.

Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk), a UK-based organisation that lobbies on behalf of porters’ rights, noted ‘There have been reports of guides bribing the rangers who weigh the porters’ loads, for example, so that the porters end up carrying huge weights, and of guides choosing porters on the basis of payments and bribes. Porters who complain fear that they will be threatened by the guide and told that they will not climb again.’ Porter conditions and standards vary considerably from one group to another. The lack of standardised rates of pay can mean that it is often the outfitters that get rich while the porters put in the hard graft.

Other organisations working for improved conditions for porters include the International Porter Protection Group (www.ippg.net) and the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project (www.kiliporters.org). The latter lends out equipment and clothing, donated by trekkers, to porters for free, teaches the porters English and first aid, and generally tries to raise the issue of porter exploitation in the public mind by arranging for people to spend a day with a porter and see what his life is really like. KPAP estimates that a fair wage for a porter’s work done properly is 28,000 Tsh per day. They have also set up a ‘Partner’ scheme for trekking agencies, and there are lists online of those agencies which have signed up to it. To qualify as a partner, one of the criteria is paying porters at least US$7, assistant guides US$10 and guides US$14.

Porters watching the sunrise illuminate clouds below Mawenzi Tarn Hut (Rongai Route, Mawenzi Tarn Hut to Kibo Huts)

The level of equipment given to porters has improved considerably over recent years. That said, in the main, the porters are still woefully kitted out for mountain climbing and often make do with whatever they can scrounge or cobble together. Outfitters are now obliged to provide tents for their teams since the porters have been banned from sleeping in caves along the routes.

Nonetheless, the porters are still at very high risk on the mountain. Although they appear superhuman, carrying massive loads, seemingly unaffected by altitude and surviving in the harsh conditions without the benefit of modern equipment or clothing, many of them are inexperienced, unsure of what to expect on the mountain and lack the proper equipment and clothing. They are still susceptible to appalling accidents, frostbite, altitude sickness and death. In bad weather it is not uncommon for a porter to die of exposure or hypothermia, most often because of a lack of appropriate mountain clothing.

Although extreme, this issue is symptomatic of a major problem of exploitation by unprincipled outfitters. There are a number of things that you can do as an individual to try and address this problem. Before booking your trek ask the tour operator or outfitter what policies they have in regard to porters’ working conditions, and make sure that they know that it is important to you that your trip does not exploit its team of porters. If booking in the UK, only travel with an operator that has policies on porters’ rights. Tourism Concern has a list of over 35 registered tour operators in the UK who have written policies on working conditions for porters. Before you set off, try to make sure that adequate clothing is available for the porters. While on the climb check to see how the porters are being treated, noting the standard of kit they have, the amount that they have to carry and where they sleep at night. Once you have descended from the mountain, tell the outfitter if you thought they were mistreated and report this to Tourism Concern. Equally, make sure that you tell the outfitter if you thought that the porters were treated fairly and make it clear that this was very important to you and your enjoyment of the climb. This sort of interest and concern will compel the trekking industry to improve itself and sharpen its practices.

Tipping

In addition to the fee agreed with the outfitter for your climb on Kilimanjaro, you must include in your budget an amount to be allocated as tips for the guide and porters. While it is not mandatory to tip those who accompany you on your climb, a situation has developed whereby the local people depend upon the tips to supplement their meagre income. To this end, tipping is no longer strictly discretionary and has become more-or-less obligatory. Nonetheless, do not let yourself be bullied into tipping excessively and make the team aware of the fact that the tip is for work well done. In fairness, once you see how much effort goes into making your climb a safe and successful one you will not begrudge the guide and porters the extra money.

When it comes to distributing the tips, you can either hand the money to the guide and allow him to share it among his team, or you may choose to give it to the individuals yourself. The second option is more personal and allows you to say thank you. It also ensures that each member of the group actually receives what is meant for them. If you do hand the money to the guide, make sure that you write down what each member is to receive so that they can see that they have been treated fairly and haven’t been swindled by an unscrupulous leader.

Bear in mind that tips can be sought quite aggressively and that there are a host of tricks designed to help you part with additional cash, but equally also keep in mind that what is a fairly small amount by western standards means an awful lot to the guides and porters on the mountain.

 The play-acting and aggrieved faces are designed to prick your conscience and open your wallet.

 Make sure that you are only tipping members of your own team.

 Ascertain how many people are associated with your group and make sure that you actually see them working on your behalf during the course of your climb.

 Don’t let the guide persuade you that there was an additional porter accompanying the group that you simply didn’t see. Be especially sceptical if this mysterious individual fails to appear to collect his tip and the others volunteer to take it on his behalf.

Kibo cone seen from Shira Plateau on the Machame Route (photo: Steve Lagreca/Shutterstock.com)

What to tip?

There are several ways of determining how much to tip the team. In the case of large groups, it has become common practice for each member of the group to contribute 10% of the cost of the climb to a tip kitty. The total amount is then shared between all of the porters and guides associated with that group. If there are only a few members in the group you should consider increasing the percentage donated to the kitty.

Alternatively, you might like to consider allocating a set amount to each individual in the team. Although there are no hard or fast rules, a general guideline for the Marangu Route would be to tip the porters US$20–25, the cook US$30–35, and the assistant guides US$35–45. The guide ought to have made the most effort on your behalf and accompanied you to the summit, and so should be tipped US$55–65. On each of the other routes, which are all slightly longer and more arduous, you should consider being slightly more generous. Thus for the Machame Route, the porters might earn US$20–30, the cook US$30–40, the assistant guide US$40–50 and the guide US$60–70.

If the team accompanying you worked especially hard or did additional work, you may wish to recognise this by increasing their tip. Almost all of the local people will be very grateful for any shoes or clothes that you may wish to give them after the climb, but these should be gifts and not offered as an alternative to a cash tip.

Environmental and cultural considerations

Kilimanjaro is a very important area of biodiversity and it has a very high value to local people. The slopes of the mountain support high density populations, whose numbers have increased fivefold over the last century. These people rely on the mountain to provide them with water for drinking and irrigation and a pleasant and relatively disease-free environment. Consequently, in order to preserve this situation, the Tanzanian national parks’ authorities have declared that Kilimanjaro should be at the centre of a substantial area of wilderness, where the evidence of man and man’s activities are minimal. Thus, all land above 2700m constitutes Kilimanjaro National Park.

The Tanzanian policy for park management is to conserve the natural environment with as little interference as possible. This involves the national parks’ authorities taking responsibility for providing and maintaining facilities and routes on the mountain. Funds and manpower are scarce, and they rely on trekkers adhering to the various regulations and making a conscious effort not to damage the mountain in the course of their visit.

Crossing the Saddle on ascent to Kibo Huts (Machame Route) (photo: Mountaintreks/Shutterstock.com)

Every trekker on Kilimanjaro will have an impact on the mountain and the region simply by virtue of being there. On its own, this may be minimal; but with up to 60,000 people visiting Kilimanjaro every year the effect on the environment and the people that live in the area is greatly magnified. Each visitor has the potential to make their impact a positive one. By being aware of this and following the requests below, you will secure the future of the mountain.

Remove all litter

Sadly, although steps have been taken to improve the state of the mountain and instill in trekkers the need to collect and remove from the mountain all of the rubbish that they generate in the course of their climb, the slopes are increasingly littered. This can pose a health risk and is dangerous to animals.

You must pack-out everything that you carry in, including empty food packaging and detritus. Neither burning the rubbish nor burying it is acceptable – metal cans and many modern plastics do not burn completely, and buried rubbish will take years to break down and will, in the meantime, disturb the soil and promote erosion. The rubbish that you collect must be weighed by the park rangers at the end of your trek. If there is a suspicion that any has been dumped, the guide runs the risk of losing his license or being fined.

Toilet paper should be carefully burnt after use, in order to prevent it later becoming strewn across the mountain slopes. Carry a lighter for this purpose. If you are in the forest or heath/moorland zones and think that this will constitute a fire hazard then pack the paper out with you.

Don’t pollute water sources

Water is a valuable resource on the mountain and should be treated as such. At the campsite use the long-drop toilets provided. If there are no toilet facilities to hand, select a spot that is at least 30m from any water source and the path, dig a shallow hole and bury the faeces. At the very least, make sure that you cover everything with stones.

Be careful when gathering water from streams and make sure that you leave the source uncontaminated. Also take care when washing not to pollute the water. Soaps, detergents and toothpaste can have a very negative impact on the flora and fauna. Even biodegradable soaps can harm wildlife. Your guide will make sure that, when in the campsite, you are brought warmed water several times a day for you to use to clean up. Dispose of the used water carefully, pouring it onto the ground away from other water sources.

Don’t use bottled water

Abandoned water bottles are unsightly and can quickly build up. They aren’t biodegradable and do not break down. Now that the huts along the Marangu Route have started to sell bottled water, there is a very real potential of littering. Instead, use water collected from the mountain and boil, filter or treat it before consumption (see Health considerations above).

Fires

Fires are capable of destroying enormous areas of forest and heath/moorland vegetation, particularly in the dry seasons. The inaccessible nature of many of the slopes mean that if a fire does break out it is very hard to control or extinguish. The farmers below the national park boundaries use fires to remove dry grass from cropland. These are meant to be controlled but there is evidence to suggest that they have previously contributed to forest fires. Inside the national park, fires can start as a result of carelessness – dropped cigarettes and roaring campfires are the worst culprits.

View of Mawenzi and Kibo across the heath above Mandara Huts (Marangu Route)

All of your meals should be prepared on kerosene stoves rather than on wood fires. Fires should not be lit at the hut or campsite areas either. The reason for this is twofold: it prevents the removal and destruction of timber along the routes and ensures that the risks of accidental forest fires are minimal. Huge forest fires have ravaged the heath/moorland slopes of the mountain above Horombo Huts in the past; the charred remains of these events are still evident beneath the regenerating vegetation. If you are cold in the evenings, resist the urge to light a fire and simply put on another layer of clothing.

Stay on the trail

In order to minimise the destruction of the flora and reduce the erosion of the mountain, you should stick to the clearly visible paths. Do not take short cuts across the slopes. Be especially careful in areas where the ground is boggy. These ecosystems are very fragile and can suffer irreparable damage if you trample over them. When descending from the crater rim, try to follow the switchbacks. It is very tempting to simply run down the scree in a straight line, but this dislodges enormous amounts of soil and gravel, shunting it off the slopes and hastening their deterioration.

Flora and fauna

It is illegal to remove any plants or animals from the mountain. Many of the flora species found on Kilimanjaro are unique or vulnerable. Do not pick any of the flowers that you find on the mountain and do not disturb any wildlife that you come across. Everything should be left on the mountain for others to enjoy. Illegal hunting does occur in the forest zone. Poachers set snares and traps for duikers, hyraxes and monkeys. If you see any suspicious activity or find any evidence of poaching, report it to the park warden.

Cultural interaction

A lot of people who climb Kilimanjaro discover that the interaction that they enjoy with their guide and porters is one of the highlights of their trip. By rising above cultural prejudices and engaging with your hosts and companions on the mountain, you will become more sensitive to their ways of living and beliefs. To not do so will reduce the value of your trip and contribute to the cultural erosion of the country. Be patient, friendly and open when meeting people and the courtesy will usually be returned. Try to learn a few words of Swahili; the endeavour will be appreciated by the porters and guides, if only because your attempts to pronounce their language are so risible. A glossary of useful words and phrases can be found in Appendix D. If you hang on to your sense of humour and maintain a sense of perspective, then your time on the mountain will be enriched. With a bit of effort, you will cease to be the ‘Mzungu Kichaa’, or ‘crazy European’, and become a friend instead.

Work to be done at First Camp on the Rongai Route, Mawenzi in the distance

Using this guide

The purpose of this guide is to add something to the experience of climbing this remarkable mountain by helping you to prepare for and then undertake the trek. By forewarning you of the nature of the climb and the potential seriousness of some of the routes, it is hoped that you will be properly prepared for the challenge. By adding a history of the area and of the early exploration and attempted ascents of Kilimanjaro, you will also get a sense of the mountain’s place in local life and its importance in a wider context, ensuring that you come away with a far better and broader appreciation of what it means both to live on and around the slopes, as well as to summit, Kilimanjaro.

The following sections include descriptions of an acclimatisation trek, all the ascent routes, circuit paths, summit ascent routes and then the descent routes. In the course of a complete climb you will use an ascent route, a summit ascent route and a descent route, with the latter determined by the former. The Circuit Path encircles the summit massif at around 4000m and connects the ascent and summit ascent routes. Although a detailed route guide to climbing Kilimanjaro is hardly necessary – the majority of the routes up the mountain are so well travelled that it’s almost impossible to become lost – it is useful to know the nature of the paths, the distance you will be walking and the time it will take you to complete the different stages; and these details are included here in the route descriptions. In the following pages, all of the main routes up and down the mountain are described on a day-by-day basis, and are accompanied by a series of sketch maps showing the route and key features of the landscape. Places and features in the text that also appear on the maps are marked in the route descriptions in bold.

The introduction to each route includes a box summarising the route. The ascent route summaries show both the time spent on the ascent route and the minimum total number of days you will spend on the mountain (ie cumulative time spent on the ascent, summit ascent and descent routes) if you choose to take that particular ascent route. The time shown in the summit ascent and descent route summaries reflects only the time spent on that route.

An indication of how long each daily section takes is found in the summary of the daily schedule. The times quoted are average walking times only and will not correspond to everyone’s experiences, but are intended as a rough guide. These approximations refer to the actual time spent walking and do not take into account breaks, photographic opportunities or any other delays.

The altitude gain and loss figures refer to the difference between the start and finish points. The altitudes noted are taken from as reliable a set of sources as possible. There are wildly differing estimates of the height of each feature, and even of the summit, and the altitudes quoted here may not be in accordance with each map or every guide. The distances mentioned are also at best estimates that will provide as accurate an impression of the ascent of the mountain as possible.

Route finding is not a problem in this neck of the woods (Machame Route)

THE STORY OF KILIMANJARO

People of the region

Mount Kilimanjaro erupted from the savannah approximately one million years ago as the result of a series of cataclysmic earth movements associated with the formation of the Rift Valley. Geologically speaking, this is recent and means that the volcano is one of the youngest in Africa and would have been formed during the time that hominids were on the earth. In fact, Kilimanjaro is likely to have been seen by at least four different Homo species including H. erectus and H. ergaster, the forerunners of the Neanderthals. Once Kilimanjaro’s slopes had become safe to inhabit, they would have supported early hunter-gatherer tribes. The extensive network of springs and streams, in conjunction with the temperate climate and bountiful supplies of food and wood, would have made this a highly desirable location for early man.

However, little of great anthropological or archaeological antiquity has been found on the mountain itself. Primitive stone bowls fashioned from lava have been discovered on the lower western slopes of the mountain, leading archaeologists to conclude that hunter-gatherer tribes based themselves here from around 1000BC onwards. However, there is little evidence available to conclusively prove what sort of life these tribes may have enjoyed.

Waves of people migrated across Africa. First Cushites entered the region from the southern highlands of Ethiopia and spread across and settled on the plains and highlands of Tanzania. It is thought that these early agriculturalists may have been responsible for some of the irrigation channels found on Kilimanjaro. Within the last few thousand years, Bantu people from West Africa and Nilotic people from the Nile Basin migrated to this region. These groups are represented around Kilimanjaro today by two tribes: the Chagga and the Maasai.

View across the exposed Saddle to the Kibo massif (Rongai Route)

The Chagga

The Chagga live around the southern slopes of Kilimanjaro, right up to the national park boundary. They currently constitute the third largest tribal group in Tanzania, numbering over 800,000 people. They are also known as the Chaga or Shaka, and sometimes the tribe is referred to as the Wachagga (the prefix ‘wa’ meaning ‘the people of’).

The Chagga are descended from a variety of groups who migrated to the foothills of Kilimanjaro and took possession of the fertile mountain slopes several hundred years ago. The tribe was composed of around 400 main clans, most of which were descended from the Kamba, a Bantu-speaking people. They have since intermingled with the Taita, Maasai and other peoples.