Читать книгу The Most Detailed Travel Guide around Irkutsk. All the attractions with the route of movement & addresses - Alexander Dmitrievich Katashevtsev - Страница 9

We will continue driving along the downer embankment of the Angara River. On the way, we will meet a monument to the teacher by the sculptor I.E. Stavsky, which appeared here in 2016 directly opposite the building of the Pedagogical Institute of Irkutsk State University (ISU). The faculties of this educational institute occupying many old buildings in the city. For example, this faculty received for use the building of Old Irkutsk Theological Seminary, built in 1790, where graduated such people as St. Innocent Veniaminov and St. Gerasim Dobroserdov. In the past, this entire quarter was covered by a huge Bishop’s Courtyard, on the site of which several residential houses and buildings of the Irkutsk bakery factory were built in Soviet times.

Monument to the teacher

From time immemorial and up to the end of the 19th century, two ferries operated on this part of the Angara embankment, which in fact connected Irkutsk with the rest of Russia, as soon as there was no other way to the East. Since 1731 at this point ended the longest road on Earth of that era – Moscow Tract (5672 km). Further from Irkutsk started the tracts to Okhotsk on Pacific Ocean (3988 km) and to Beijing (3216 km).

Moscow scow

In memory of this and on the occasion of the celebration of the tenth anniversary of the reign of Russian tsar Alexander I in 1811, a triumphal gate was laid here. Although the authorship of this amazing construction for the province is attributed to the provincial architect J.A. Kruglikov, but he could hardly have guessed such an interesting decision himself.

Moscow Triumphal Gate

And, in fact, the gate was built by the French road engineers P.D. Bazaine, J. А. Fabre, C.M. Potier, A.M. Destrem, who were exiled to Irkutsk. They could hardly suspect that they had begun construction of the symbol of great victory of the Russian army over Napoleon in the Great Patriotic War of 1812—1814. After all, it was through this triumphal arch that the first Irkutsk veterans returned home, and the Moscow Gate became the first attraction that met travellers at the entrance to city.

P. D. Bazaine

It remained the only triumphal arch in Russia beyond the Urals until gate were dismantled due to disrepair in 1928. There is a memorial sign at its place today. Nearby in 2011, at the expense of Irkutsk businessman E.G. Devochkin, the new Moscow Gate was reconstructed.

Moscow Triumphal Gate

If we recall the origins of the military glory of Irkutsk, then in 1786 the Irkutsk Dragoon Regiment was created, which became the first military unit in the history of the capital of Eastern Siberia. Its most famous general was A.A. Skalon, which died a heroic death in the battle for Smolensk on August 5, 1812.

General A.A. Skalon

At first there was a very cautious attitude towards the Siberian troops and they were always kept in reserve. However, due to the fact that most of the battles of the Napoleonic wars took place on the brink of defeat, and they had to use reserve units, Siberians more and more began to declare themselves. On February 8, 1807, the invincible army of Napoleon in the Battle of Preussisch-Eylau suffered its first defeat, largely thanks to the Irkutsk Dragoon Regiment. Later, in the decisive battle in Russia near Borodino, the Irkutsk dragoons repulsed the last attack of the French cavalry at 3 o’clock in the afternoon, and the battle ended there.

Irkutsk Dragoon Regiment

From January 1813 the regiment was reorganized into the Irkutsk Hussar, and its forces were used in the personal protection of Russian Marshal M.I. Kutuzov, and during the “hundred days” of Napoleon, it was transferred to France, where it worthily completed the era of the Napoleonic wars. Due to the fact that the Irkutsk regiment was united with the Moscow one, many noble sons served in it, such as the poet and diplomat A.S. Griboyedov, composer A.A. Alyabyev, architect of the “new Moscow” J.I. Bové.

Irkutsk soldiers in Paris

Turning to the right, we find ourselves on the December Events street, which is named after the fierce battles that were fought here from December 21 to December 30 in 1917. As well as this street was the last known border of the Russian Empire – the so-called “Ushakovsky Front” passed here in winter of 1919.

In the past, December Events Street had different names: Moskovskaya, Vladimirskaya, Laninskaya. The origin of the first name does not raise questions, and the second is associated with a magnificent temple that appeared here in 1780. Today, the premises of Vladimir Church are taken up by an Orthodox female gymnasium, and only rare ornaments on the walls of educational institution remind of the temple itself. In 1938, a garment factory was located here, had seized the building of the last cathedral in Irkutsk and greatly rebuilt it. Today it is planned to return the church to believers and restore the monument.

Vladimir Church

In its turn, Laninskaya Street was named in honour of the dynasty of Irkutsk merchants and especially F.A. Lanin, who created the first ironworks in Baikal region in 1738.

Vladimir Church

Opposite the Vladimir Church, you can see the beautiful building of the first Khaminov women’s gymnasium, built in 1860 and named after the famous Irkutsk merchant I.S. Khaminov, who donated about 1 million golden rubles (1.4 billion in modern rubles) for the needs of education in Irkutsk Governorate. The building was rebuilt several times, was seriously damaged in the great fire in 1879 and during the fighting in 1917, but in general it has been very well preserved to this day. Today there is a school number 72, which is continuing the traditions of education of the 19th century in the best possible way.

Irkutsk merchant I.S. Khaminov

We continue our movement and turn right to Polskikh Povstantsev Street (former Seminarian), which got its name from the largest rebellion of Polish exiles in the history of Russia – the Baikal Insurrection in the summer of 1866. Moving along the buildings of the Irkutsk Pedagogical Institute and the bakery building, you can see one of the most beautiful wooden mansions in Irkutsk, which belonged to the Razsokhin family before the revolution in Russia. I.K. Razsokhin, who lived here in the first half of the 19th century, became the first Russian teacher of the Chinese language and the compiler of the Russian transcription of Chinese hieroglyphs.

Mansions in Irkutsk of the Razsokhin family

At the end of the street we are met again the Polish Church, and we turn left and move towards the main city square. On the right we see a small stele made of pink granite, which was installed in memory of the awarding of the Irkutsk Region with the Order of Lenin on June 8, 1967 for the successes achieved by workers in the field of economic and cultural construction, the creation of large industrial and energy complexes on the Angara River.

Stele in memory of the awarding of the Irkutsk Region with the Order of Lenin

Just behind the stele you can see a small chapel built on the initiative of the administration on October 4, 2000 on the place of the altar of the Kazan Cathedral destroyed in 1932. It is a miniature copy of one of the domes of the temple. Inside groundwork of the building is laid with the stones from the foundations of the lost church.

Chapel on the place of the altar of the Kazan Cathedral

Right next to it, on the other side of the street, until Soviet times, there was another very picturesque chapel in the name of St. Innocent Bishop of Irkutsk, consecrated on January 16, 1877.

Chapel in the name of St. Innocent Bishop of Irkutsk

In its place today is the management building of OJSC “Irkutskenergo”, one of the four non-state independent energy companies in Russia. Unfortunately, none of the 9 stone chapels that existed in Irkutsk before the revolution has survived to this day.