Читать книгу Tbilisi – Marneuli. Georgia 2 cities in 1 weekend - Alexander Zhidchenko - Страница 9

ABOUT THE CITY

For the first time I was able to penetrate the culture and atmosphere of this city at the Tbilisoba festival in 2015 in Moscow. Then there were many well-known figures of the Russian stage, natives of Georgia, Soso Pavliashvili, Tamara Gverdtsiteli and many others. Their songs so radically conveyed everything that the Georgian capital is famous for, that to many Muscovites present at this holiday, it seemed as if they had made a trip to this city.

But the real meeting with Tbilisi was accomplished only a few years later. For many of our compatriots who grew up in the Soviet Union, Georgia has always been a blooming garden, where it’s warm almost all year round, and the local national flavor has always amazed imagination.

After many years of Georgia’s independence, its sunny image changed in many respects to another – more strict, sometimes gray, distant and unfamiliar. In short, Soviet and modern Georgia, like Soviet and modern Tbilisi, is, as they say in Odessa, two big differences. But I’ll try to introduce you to both of them. With the way we saw it from the pages of magazines and film frames of the 1970s, as well as with the way you see it, having arrived in Georgia today.

So, let’s begin.

Even during the Roman Empire, in the I – II centuries. AD There was a city called Tbiliada, which is noted on many maps of the Caucasian foothills of this time. In this area, the remains of ancient baths were found. But it is believed that the history of the city is still from the turn of antiquity and the Middle Ages – V century, when it was founded by the king of Iberia Vakhtang Gorgasali. Leaving in the year 458 for the royal hunt, he shot a pheasant in these places, which fell into a hot spring and was welded. He liked the thermal springs so much that he ordered the establishment of a settlement here and the construction of a bath complex. They were the basis of the historic quarter of Abagotubani (“quarter of baths”). Its center is the remains of an old bath complex, as well as a fountain with a pheasant, to which the city owes its legendary appearance.

The heir of Vakhtang Gorgasali, the king of the Dacha, did much for the development of the city. It was he who transferred the capital of Iberia from Mtskheta to Tbilisi. With him around the city walls were erected, and Tbilisi itself grew very rapidly due to the favorable location on the trade route between Europe and Asia.

The city became the capital of the united Georgia in 1122, when King David the Builder, the head of the Bagratid state, entered here. The historical development of the city with this moment through a series of many wars, invasions, changes of rulers and other events.

Since Georgia joined the Russian Empire, Tbilisi has become the residence of the so-called supreme Georgian government and commander in chief – the highest representative of the national military and civil authorities in Georgia and throughout the North Caucasus.

In 1840, Tbilisi became the center of the Transcaucasian region. Polukis high administrative status, the city began to develop rapidly on the basis of a mixture of Russian culture and cultures of the peoples of the Caucasus. Here, markets, squares, fountains, apartment houses and public buildings were built. Many of them are an important part of the historical and cultural heritage of Tbilisi and to this day.

Tbilisi City Hall. 1840-ies.

The city was visited by famous writers, poets, composers, artists. There were Alexander Pushkin, Mikhail Lermontov, Alexander Griboyedov, Leo Tolstoy, Pyotr Tchaikovsky, Maxim Gorky, Konstantin Paustovsky and many others. The atmosphere of the city and its inhabitants influenced the creativity of each of these world-famous geniuses of the pen.

In the second half of the XIX century the population of the city grew in geometric progression. If in 1865 there lived 71 thousand people, then in 1897 – twice as many. Tbilisi became the center of the industry of the Caucasian region. Many plants and factories were built here. This predetermined the fact that the city became one of the pillars of the workers’ revolutionary movement.

In 1883, a tram started to ride through the streets of the city in the form of a horse.

At the turn of the XIX – XX centuries. Joseph Stalin and his associates here launched a tremendous revolutionary and propaganda work, were the founders of the Leninist-Iskra organizations in the Caucasus.

Soviet Tbilisi as the capital of the Georgian SSR has developed quite actively and dynamically. Here were built richly decorated with stucco decor and columns of the capital’s administrative buildings, wide avenues, green boulevards, squares, monuments leading up and down in the mountain city of the staircase. In 1937, trolleybuses began to ride the streets of the city, in 1966 a subway was opened.

In 1989, the city’s population reached the highest point in the history of Tbilisi, and amounted to 1 million 259 inhabitants.

The existence of Tbilisi as the capital of independent Georgia enriched the city with new monuments, streets, buildings and structures. Unfortunately, much of the period of Soviet construction was lost, in 2006 the Tbilisi trolleybus and tram stopped its work. The city was shaken by more than a dozen political rallies and demonstrations, but it continues to develop, and very kindly welcomes guests from all over the world.

Today, the Tbilisi space can be divided into several parts. This is the space of an ancient city, which includes archaeological sites, ancient temples and monasteries, etc. The second part is Russian Tbilisi, all the buildings, streets and quarters that have been preserved since the time of the Russian Empire. The third part is Soviet Socialist Tbilisi, with its residential and public buildings designed by Georgian architects of the 20th century. Many of them at one time entered textbooks on the architecture of the USSR as bold decisions and outstanding achievements of our country. And, finally, the 4th part is Tbilisi modern, which seems to have been dissolved in the previous 3 parts, because it influenced all these parts. Somewhere lighting houses, somewhere in the reconstruction and restructuring, and many other ways.

Now is the time to delve into the routes to the sights of this city, at its most interesting, bright and unusual places that belong to the list of “mast visit” for several days of the wukend held here.

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT OF TBILISI NAMED AFTER SHOTA RUSTAVELI

Shota Rustaveli Airport, in which you most likely will fly, are the main air gates of Georgia.

The first airport in the country appeared in 1952, the last year of life of Joseph Stalin. Its architecture corresponded to its time (late Stalin empire).

Then, in 1990 a new, more modern airport was built, which in 2007 underwent serious reconstruction, and today it meets all world standards.

In the parking lot near the terminal, the first thing that catches your eye is large solar panels that cover the car parks and protect the cars from the sun. For a day they collect the amount of energy that is enough to illuminate the parking lots themselves and the surrounding roads at night.

ROAD TO THE CENTER

After the arrival, it is worth changing the ruble for a few lari so that you have the money to get to the center, and if the time later to have dinner somewhere, and also pay for the hotel or hostel.

The journey to the city center depends on your preferences and your wallet. In general, there are not so many options – either a taxi or a bus. If you choose a taxi, then prepare to lay about 15—20 lari (about 8—10 US dollars).

The most advantageous option is bus number 37. In the daytime he drives quite regularly, in the evening it’s a little worse, and that’s why it’s often crowded. The fare is only 0.5 lari (about 35 cents). On this bus you can reach the city center, Freedom Square and Rustaveli Avenue.

The bus stop is directly opposite the exit from the international arrival terminal.

THE KAHETIAN HIGHWAY

Route bus number 37 from the airport runs through the Kakheti highway, then – the first on your way metro station – Avlabari, from where you can get to any part of the city.

The final bus stop is Tbilisi Central Railway Station. In total, the journey takes approximately 40—50 minutes. In the winter, a little less, in the summer a little more.

Squirrel Hostel Tbilisi

In advance I booked on the site booking.com a place in Hostel Squirrel Hostel Tbilisi for one night. During the years of travel, I noticed that hostels in the countries of the former USSR are better booked on booking, while hostels in distant countries of the world are more convenient to book at hostels.com.

I recommend this hostel to all. It is located almost a few steps from Freedom Square, from where it is close to all the main sights of the city. At all thus cost of one night here has managed to me only in 12,75 lari, that is about 300 rubles. Agree, not so much for spending the night in the very center of Tbilisi.

The most interesting – the atmosphere of this hostel, located in a historic building. It combines the traditions of the Soviet Georgian apartment and the modern student hipster studio. The staff of the hostel speak Russian very well, and they will tell you the places that must be visited, where they can eat lunch and buy souvenirs, and also answer any questions.

By the way, the ceilings here were meters, probably five, no less. The beds looked like they were in a doll’s house.

NIGHT OF FREEDOM SQUARE

Throwing things, you have to go for a walk in the evening and night city. In winter it gets dark early, so tourists do not lose a minute to enjoy every instant of staying in a new place.

Since the square, which I will tell you more about the history of, has important ideological meanings for modern Georgia, all buildings here are new or restored, and in the evening they are all illuminated with bright spotlights.

The movement around the monument to George the Victorious does not cease all night, like the youth returning from night clubs and discos.

PROSPECT SHOTA RUSTAVELI

In the evening and at night, the main street of Tbilisi, Shota Rustaveli Avenue becomes the main attraction point for all those who can not sleep.

Walk along this avenue from start to finish in the evening, and you will fall in love with this city.

The arcades of the Georgian Parliament building on Shota Rustaveli Avenue

This street, like many other famous sites in Georgia and beyond, was named after the medieval poet and statesman, the author of the textbook “Knight in the Panther’s Skin”, Shota Rustaveli. The poet lived in 1172—1216, and his legacy still lives, almost 1000 years later.

Monument to Akaki Tsereteli and Ilya Chavchavadze on Shota Rustaveli Avenue near the school building No. 1

(the former Tiflis Gymnasium)

Keshwati Temple in Tbilisi. 1910

It should be noted that the streets named by his name are also in Moscow, Chelyabinsk, Tashkent, and many other cities of the former USSR.

ACADEMY OF SCIENCES IN THE EVENING

An important place on Shota Rustaveli Avenue is the building of the National Academy of Sciences of Georgia with a restaurant, exchange offices and numerous shops in semi-circular arcades on the first floor.