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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
The Jura Crest Trail, one of seven Swiss national long-distance walking trails, delivers wondrous panoramas as you ascend, traverse and descend summits and mountain passes along the 310km trail. The day-to-day journey can be a challenge, with up to 1700m height gain in one day, but when you take in the immense views of the Jura range, the peaks and ridges of the Alps on the horizon, and across the Rhône valley, the sense of achievement more than compensates. Exertion apart, the trail does provide an enjoyable and relaxed trek as due to its location and access points, should you wish to, you can descend at any time.
That is, if you can pull yourself away. The route is a rolling showcase of natural features including deep gorges, mountain streams, glistening lakes (including the largest mountain lake in Switzerland above 1000m), tranquil forests, extensive alpine pastures and craggy exposed cliffs. A great pleasure of the Jura Crest Trail is derived from the many changes in its character as it moves from the north-east to the south-west. Throughout the Jura, nature reserves and protected areas are enforced to ensure wildlife and flowering plants are safeguarded. Made up of limestone, perfect growing conditions exist for a wide variety of flowering plants, and wildflowers are a particular point of interest here with over 950 flowering plant species.
View east from the highest peak of the range, Mont Tendre (Stage 12)
Information at a glance
Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF), although the euro is commonly accepted, especially at large hotels.
Formalities: Western European and UK passport holders do not require a visa to enter Switzerland, whereas citizens of Canada, the USA, Australia and New Zealand can stay for up to three months without a visa.
Health precautions: Healthcare in Switzerland is private, therefore expect to pay if you require treatment. It is important to be adequately insured. The European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) grants access to healthcare at a reduced cost, although it is possible that arrangements may change after the UK leaves the EU.
International dialling code: Contacting Switzerland from the UK using a phone, dial 0041, ensuring you ignore the initial 0 on the remaining telephone number. Dialling a phone number in the UK from Switzerland is the same, except the dialling code is 0044.
Languages: Two languages are spoken along the Jura Crest Trail: German from Stages 1–5, and French from Stages 6–14, although English is understood and spoken throughout.
Phones: Phone boxes can be found throughout Switzerland, many of which are operated by phone card, which can be purchased at post offices, train stations and convenience stores.
Tourist information: Switzerland Travel Centre is the main tourism company based in the UK, working directly with Switzerland Tourism and Swiss Federal Railways. See www.switzerlandtravelcentre.co.uk.
The Jura Crest Trail
The Jura Crest Trail, linking Zurich with Geneva, is also known as the Jura High Route (Swiss Route 5). At 310km in length and with over 13,500m of ascents on easy hiking paths, the trail requires a medium level of fitness. The route passes through two language regions – German and French – with the language border lying at Montagne de Romont (Stage 5); as the border divides cantons, the language merges and you will find some German-speaking on the French side and vice versa. The Jura Crest Trail interlinks through two cities along the route – Baden and Brugg – enabling access to a range of accommodation and transport to assist with the planning of your hike. Alongside mountain villages and passes, with bus routes and simple accommodation, there are also descents through small towns where provisions can be picked up on route.
The trail is regarded as the Swiss classic long-distance path, with waymarkers plotting the route as early as 1905, making the route fairly easy to navigate. Transport provisions at the beginning and end of the route are very good. The start point, Dielsdorf (15km from Zurich), and the finish point, Nyon (26km from Geneva), are both near to international airports and train stations that are connected with most countries in Europe. Regional trains are easily linked with local trains and post buses to provide widespread and regular transport from most of the start and finish points of each stage, as well as along the trail where small towns and mountain passes are crossed.
Looking east towards the Lägern ridge from Baden (Stage 1)
The Jura mountains form a range of ancient folded strata creating an arc from the Rhine valley in the north-east to the Rhône valley south-west, along the border between Switzerland and France. The word Jura originates from the Latin term juria, meaning ‘forest’. The Jura has also been regarded as the Jurassic Alps because of the geological timescale in which they evolved. Characteristic of the Jura are combes, sequences of geologic folds, dry valleys or depressions of limestone rolling and undulating along the high plateau. These relatively flat high-altitude features enable maximum access and enjoyment of the trail by all abilities and offer spectacular views across the Alps to the Rhône valley, the Black Forest, the Vosges and five lakes: Bielers, Lac de Neuchâtel, Lake Geneva (Lac Léman), Lac de Joux and Lac Brenet.
Beginning in the town of Dielsdorf, Stage 1 starts with navigating the cobbled streets of medieval Regensberg, a hilltop fortified village, before ascending and traversing a narrow, wooded ridgeline with intermittent views across to the Bernese Oberland. Towards the end of the Lägern ridge you approach the only mountain hiking graded part of the trail, involving the option of scrambling and descending a rocky ridgeline. Alternatively, the terrain to the northern side of the slope is an easier option to descend into Baden. The second half of the trail is wide and easy to walk, gently meandering through a variety of farmland, forest and passes through two large towns, Baden and Brugg, offering plentiful amenities, accommodation and transport options.
The route from Brugg to Balsthal, covering the end of Stage 1 through to Stage 3, is less densely populated, passing over several cols which link the trail with local towns via public transport. Accommodation along the route is good, although you are limited in what is available. The trail is mostly wide, passing through woodland and farmland, undulating along the Jura crest. The oldest tree in Switzerland, the famous 800-year-old linden tree is passed on the outskirts of the small village of Linn, as you traverse remote, rolling alpine pastures and forests. Several geological interest points can be found along the route, with exposed limestone crags at the end of escarpments, in particular on the geology trail near Hauenstein. Military history is evidenced throughout Stage 3, as you follow the World War I road carved into the mountain below Belchenflue. Remains of a hilltop fortress are passed, comprising small bunkers and outbuildings. Grubens, large hidden holes dug in an attempt to prevent tanks from entering Switzerland in World War II, alongside ‘toblerone’ tank traps and deeply sunk metal defences, can also be seen in the area. As you near the end of Stage 3, prominent geological features, such as the summit of the Roggenflue (995m), lead to a dramatic descent deep into the gorge at Balsthal, with commanding views of the upcoming Stage 4 ascent of 700m along the knife-edge Hällchöpfli summit.
Looking east along the Jura Crest Trail from the summit of Belchenflue (Stage 3)
Between Stages 4 and 5 from Balsthal to Frinvillier, over 30km of undulating ridgelines and high alpine pastures filled with wildflowers can be enjoyed. With a narrow, steep ascent from Balsthal winding its way up forested hillsides before opening onto rolling open alpine meadows en route to the Weissenstein, noticeable high points enable panoramic views alongside local access to other recreational activities such as a high-ropes course at Balmberg. The two stages remain high on the Jura, with several access points to local towns for amenities. This part of the Jura is popular with locals due to its access to well-maintained trails and good mountain restaurants. Nearing the end of Stage 5, the trail continues on wide farm paths and begins to become intermittently scattered with small chalets belonging to the local community. The trail then begins its gentle descent through the forest into Frinvillier.
Beginning close to the city of Biel/Bienne, Stages 6–8 involve a steep ascent from the Frinvillier gorge up to the prominent summit of Chasseral. From there, a remote, narrow path is followed along a rocky, forested ridgeline for most of the trail. The landscape changes noticeably as you approach the Tablettes and Noiraigue with their steep limestone karst and sheer drops, culminating in the spectacular amphitheatre of the Creux du Van. This region is famed for its absinthe, a highly alcoholic beverage becoming popular again, following the prohibition of it for many years. Along the route, there are opportunities to visit and sample the beverage in local buvettes, mountain hotels and museums.
Geological wonders can be found at the beginning of Stages 9, 10 and 11, where prominent summit peaks of the Creux du Van (1463m), Aiguille de Baulmes (1559m) and Dent de Vaulion (1483m) are passed before reaching landscape typical of the Jura: rolling high alpine meadows, forests and farmland pastures. The Creux du Van, sitting above the town of Noiraigue, is a perfect example of the Jura limestone seen at its best. The trail passes along the top of the impressive 160m-high vertical rock wall amphitheatre within a 1km-wide valley, offering stunning views of this geological formation. Aiguille de Baulmes, a sharp pinnacle of rock, is passed shortly after leaving Sainte-Croix, which sits within 600 metres with the border of France. World War II relics are passed around the base, a reminder of how close Switzerland potentially could have been with enemy invasion. There is opportunity to explore 3km of underground caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites in the Grottes de Vallorbe, just below the summit of Dent de Vaulion, at the start of Stage 11, near the town of Vallorbe.
Stage 11 begins with a long ascent from Vallorbe, to the summit of Dent de Vaulion (1483m). The trail travels from town, into farmland, alpine meadows and forest, before reaching the exposed and rocky outcrop of the summit. The Jurapark, a nature park that sits below the summit of Dent de Vaulion, is home to wolves and bears that have either been rescued or taken out of captivity. It lies just off route but is easily accessed along the footpaths in the area. From the summit, two options for descent are available: a narrow forest path to the car park Pétra Félix, which continues on to Stage 12, or an excursion to the small town of Le Pont. The settlement is situated on the shorefront of the highest mountain lake of the Jura, Lac du Joux, which is famed for its Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese museum and yellow gentian liqueur distillery. Campsites can be found around the lake, with the opportunity to also hire sailing boats or mountain bikes to circumnavigate the 10km2 lake. The Vaudois Jura Park extends throughout the region from Stage 11 and the Dents de Vaulion to La Dôle in Stage 14, providing a protected area for wildlife.
View over Lac du Joux and Dent de Vaulion (Stages 12 and 13)
The final stages provide some of the best scenery of the entire Jura Crest Trail. The highest peak of the entire Jura mountain range, Mont Tendre (1679m), can be found in Stage 12 between Col du Mollendruz and Col du Marchairuz. A prominent triangulation point can be found at the summit, leaving 360-degree panoramic views including views of the route ahead, along the rolling elevated plateau of the ‘Balcon du Alpes’. The plateau from this stage to Nyon is interspersed with three high mountain passes connecting Lake Geneva with Lac du Joux through public transport such as Post Buses and the famous Little Red Train at Saint-Cergue.
Stage 13 continues along the plateau and passes the high point of Crêt de la Neuve (1495m) where access to an underground glacier can be located 1.5km east of the trail at Glacière de Saint-George. The Jura is famed for its dairy products, such as cheeses like gruyere, alpage and Vacherin Mont d’Or, and after going through rolling alpine meadows the route passes the legendary local cheese farm, Fromageriue des Fruitières de Nyon where you can sample regional produce. Saint-Cergue, a quintessential mountain village, is located at the end of Stage 13 providing extensive transportation links, a variety of accommodation and amenities, as well as its own ski resort.
Stage 14 begins with a gentle ascent through alpine pastures before reaching the spectacular geological formation of La Dôle (1677m) via a steep cliff face. The ‘golf-ball’ summit, as it is known locally, hosts several air traffic antennas, alongside the top of a ski run that descends into France. The final section of Stage 14 descends from the mountainous environment, into forest, farmland and vineyards, before reaching the final destination, Nyon. The Canton Vaud is famed for its production of white wines, alongside filet de perche, a fish speciality found in restaurants near the lake. With plentiful amenities, museums, castles and chateaus, alongside the inviting Lake Geneva in the summer months, Nyon provides the ultimate concluding location for a long-distance trail.
Other long-distance paths in Switzerland
Switzerland has a long-standing history with hiking paths, with the Jura Crest Trail (route 5) forming one of seven such well-established paths through the country. The other national routes are the Via Alpina (390km, route 1), the Trans Swiss Trail (500km, route 2), the Alpine Panorama Trail (520km, route 3), the Via Jacobi (445km, route 4), the Alpine Passes Trail (610km, route 6) and the Via Gottardo (320km, route 7).
Popular throughout Europe, the internationally recognised 12 ‘E-paths’ link numerous countries across the continent, with the E4 following 239km of the Jura Crest Trail, from Saint-Cergue to Dielsdorf. The E4 traces a 12,000km path linking Tarifa in Spain with Larnaca in Cyprus to provide the longest path in Europe. The European long-distance paths are identified by a blue shield encircled by yellow stars with a letter ‘E’ and the number of the trail in the centre.
Geology of the Jura mountains
The Jura mountains are part of the Alpine foreland providing some of the oldest rocks in the Alps. The Jura began its development in the Jurassic period of the Mesozoic era, around 152 million years ago, when significant portions of Europe were covered by the Tethys Sea. Sediments became compressed on the ocean floor, forming rock: the abundant tropical marine life and fauna of this Mesozoic ocean can still be witnessed today in the fossil-rich limestone of the Jura. In fact, it was in the Jura that rocks of this age – ‘Jura limestone’, named by the famous geologist, Alexander von Humboldt – were first studied.
The summit of Chasseral (Stage 6)
The Cenozoic Era, over the past 65 million years, was when the main deformational thrust took place in the Jura. The oceanic floor was pushed upwards as tectonic plates collided, forming mountains. Several major thrusts and Alpine uplifts occurred to form the first Jura mountain around 35 million years ago.
As a result of Cenozoic orogeny and more recent erosion, fault lines, folds, anticlines, high plateaus, deep gorges and combes form the main topography of modern-day Jura. Due to the layers of limestone and marl, permeable rock surfaces have enabled underground water networks to develop, alongside natural features formed by erosion, such as craggy karsts and fissures.
Geologic places of interest along the Jura Crest Trail
Mammoth Museum, Niederweningen (Stage 1) – a museum dedicated to the discoveries of mammoth fossils in Switzerland and in particular the local area. This small but very informative museum slightly north of the trail, but easily accessible by public transport from Dielsdorf, Baden or Brugg, is worth the detour: www.mammutmuseum.ch.
Aargau Jurapark (Stage 2) – a stepped landscape consisting of deep valleys, high mountains and the Jurassic plateau: www.jurapark-aargau.ch.
Thal Nature Park (Stages 3 and 4) – a large nature reserve with stunning views of the expansive rolling hills of the Jura: www.naturparkthal.ch.
Chasseral Regional Park (Stages 6 and 7) – a 400km2 nature park with the Chasseral massif sitting prominently in the centre. Over 500 plant species can be seen, alongside geologic formations along the summit ridge: www.jurabernois.ch.
Creux du Van (Stage 9) – a large, natural limestone amphitheatre above Noiraigue, also known as the Swiss equivalent of the Grand Canyon: www.myswitzerland.com/en-gb/creux-du-van-travers-valley.html.
Grottes de Vallorbe (Stage 11) – over 3km of underground caves consisting of limestone stalagmites and stalactites close to the town of Vallorbe: www.grottesdevallorbe.ch.
Glacière de Saint George (Stage 13) – a 22m-deep cave filled with a glacier that can be accessed and visited from mid-May to mid-November: www.nyon-tourisme.ch.
La Dôle (Stage 14) – a 1677m summit atop of a dramatic geologic amphitheatre overlooking Lake Geneva and the Mont Blanc Massif.
World War II and the Jura mountains
The Jura mountains run parallel to the border with France and offered an escape route from Nazi-occupied territory during World War II. Visible fortifications, defences and remnants can be seen throughout the latter stages of the trail, in particular from Sainte-Croix to Nyon (Stages 10–14), where the Promenthouse Line (also known as the Toblerone Line), a defensive line of nearly 3000 tank traps, was built between 1936 to 1937 in preparation for the rise of armaments and potential invasion from Germany.
Just a few kilometres south-west of Sainte-Croix the number of World War II bunkers increases as the trail passes within 600 metres of the French border. Nearing the end of the stage, on the approach to Vallorbe, Fort de Pre-Giroud (www.pre-giroud.ch) is visible 2km to the south-east on the hillside as you follow the river L’Orbe. Built between 1937 and 1941 to protect the Franco–Swiss border and the Col de Jougne, this underground fortress, its entrance identified by a false chalet with a large Swiss cross, housed 200 men. Today it is open to visitors (English tours by advance appointment).
Stage 11 passes close to the Grand Risoux Forest in the Vallée de Joux. The forest presented the perfect natural border between occupied France and the freedom of Switzerland, offering an advantageous starting point for those wishing to flee from the Nazi occupation. Only a small 3ft-high drystone wall with Fleur-de-Lis decorating it separated the two countries, allowing Jews, allied service personnel and resistance fighters to enter neutral Switzerland.
Swiss ‘toblerones’, a frequent sight along the Jura Crest Trail and a reminder of recent Swiss military history
In 1940 up to 15 locals from the Vallée de Joux joined the Swiss Information Service (SR), part of the Intelligence Services, to set up a small group of passeurs, also known as smugglers, to organise, supervise and guide safe passage through the 200km of forest trails. One member, Frederic Reymond, a watchmaker who worked alongside resistance fighters and spies without hesitation, received the Yad Vashem medal of the Righteous Among the Nations after the war ended. Some passeurs, such as Bernard Bouveret, were not so lucky. A local man from Chapelle-des-Bois, Bouveret worked with Reymond to transport confidential documents regarding Nazi movements and microfilm to the British Embassy in Lausanne, and armaments to resistance fighters over the border in France. He was captured in 1944 and spent the rest of his war years in the German concentration camp, Dachau. Several passeurs were shot on sight.
Locals Anne-Marie Piguet and Victoria Cordier worked together to transport German and Austrian Jewish orphans between Champagnole in France, through the Risoux Forest to the safety of Zurich during the last two years of the war. The journey for the orphans started at the Chateau de la Hille near Toulouse, 700km away.
Numerous routes were formed throughout the forest to prevent the Nazis from tracking the passeurs from the several garrisons near the border. Many of the routes can still be traced today. Locals would purposely make random routes in the snow and in the undergrowth to make it more difficult to monitor and control the passage of escapees. The Nazis patrolled the French side of forest throughout the day and night, firing without warning if anyone was found within the 2km forbidden zone at the border.
Once over the border, the guided group would rest and recover from the long, difficult journey at one of two wooden huts deep in the forest: L’Hôtel d’Italie and Le Rendezvous des Sages. From here, the passeurs would turn back and return to their homes before dawn, leaving the escapees to continue the 10km journey from the border before they could register and remain in internment camps for illegal foreigners, within the safety of Switzerland.
Refuge des Sages was used by the passeurs of the Risoux Forest
More than 100 Swiss wartime activists were accused, fined or imprisoned for charging money and profiteering from smuggling during the war, despite the selfless bravery. Passeurs admitted to carrying contraband such as chocolate and cigarettes during their journeys, to keep the Nazis off the scent, as this only involved a fine, instead of being interned in a concentration camp or, worse still, instant death by shooting. It has only been since 2009 that the passeurs have officially been recognised.
Several memorials to them can be found in the Vallée de Joux. A metal plaque can be seen near the top of the rock-climbing route through the Gy de l’Echelle in the Grand Risoux Forest, commemorating the movement of Jewish orphans. In 2014, an official memorial was unveiled at Le Pont and at Chapelle-des-Bois to pay tribute to the passeurs of the Risoux.
For further information on the passeurs, visit www.lespasseursdememoire.ch or www.randodespasseurs.com.
Flowers of the Jura mountains
The Jura mountains are a haven for wildflowers due to the well-drained soils and other environmental conditions, and are home to over 950 flowering plant species. The Jura is made up of limestone, a sedimentary rock that offers the perfect growing conditions for a wide variety of flowering plants; in particular, the slopes and plateaus of the Jura from between 1000m and 1800m, where the grazing pastures are opened up to cattle in the summer and covered with snow in the winter. These areas suffer from relatively little agricultural chemical change, leaving natural meadows where a variety of species will flourish. Wildflowers appear as early as March and wilt away as late as October, depending on the year.
The best months to see the alpine meadows in their full beauty is between June and early August, when a range of colours scatter the hillsides, leaving scents of perfume lingering, which can be tasted in the local Alpage cheeses of the region.
Bladder campion; field scabious; yellow gentian; alpine pasqueflower (seeded); plume knapweed; greater masterwort
Some of the wildflowers characteristic of the Swiss Jura include:
Yellow gentian (Gentiana lutea ), abundant in the Jura region and farmed and distilled in the Vallée de Joux to make a botanical liqueur drunk as a digestif
White hellebore (Veratum album ), a toxic plant that is a member of the lily family
Eyebright (Euphrasia officinalis ), a low-growing parasitic plant with white flowers, found in alpine pastures and grasslands
Monk’s-hood (Aconitum variegatum ), also known as wolf’s bane, a highly toxic plant with blue-violet flowers, found in mountainous terrain and rockier parts of the Jura
Field gentian (Gentianella campestris ), found in most alpine meadows, pastures and forest clearings throughout the Jura and identifiable by its four large blue-violet petals with a central corolla
Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum ), generally found high, on rocky outcrops or inaccessible areas
Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia ), a hardy and tolerant singular blue-violet nodding flower that is a member of the campanula ‘bell’ family
Grass of parnassus (Parnassia palustris ), distinguished by its white flowers with distinctive clusters of yellow stamens at the centre of the five petals and translucent green stripes atop of long stems with dark green heart-shaped leaves
Bladder campion (Silene vulgaris ), a flower with a pink bladder-like bulge and white petals clumped together in five bunches; its leaves are used throughout the Mediterranean in various food dishes such as gazpacho and omelettes
Alpine pasqueflower (Pulsatilla alpine ), a toxic plant bearing white-yellow flowers early in the season and distinctive seed heads atop of hairy, textured stems later in the year
Field scabious (Knautia arvensis ), a tall, hairy flower with pink anthers consisting of four unequal petal lobes that attracts butterflies, bees and insects
Carline thistle (Carlina vulgaris ), found on dry alpine pastures and identifiable by its clusters of spiky, brown-golden flower heads, not too unlike a thistle
Rosebay willow herb (Chamerion angustifolium ), a colonising plant also known as bombweed after it sprouted up in wasteland following World War I and World War II bombings throughout Europe
Greater masterwort (Astrantia major ), a member of the carrot family with a tall, hollow singular stem bearing an umbellifer head of flowers, that are very popular with butterflies
Plume knapweed (Centaurea uniflore ), easily recognisable by the straight stem covered with short rough hair and grey-green leaves of less than 1cm, and a pineapple bud under the thistle-like flowering head.
Protected areas
Throughout the Jura, there are a number of nature reserves and protected areas, identified by localised signage. These are in place to protect flowers and wildlife of the area, therefore should be respected. You should not pick any wildflowers, as they are unlikely to survive outside of their natural habitat. Some flowers, such as edelweiss, are protected throughout the Alps and could result in an offence being committed if you pick the flowers.
When to go
It is important to choose the right time to walk the Jura Crest Trail, as snow can fall as late as April, and as early as October, leaving the highest parts of the trail hidden. This, alongside the high winds that sometimes cross Lake Geneva, can cause the wind chill to drop significantly. Do remember that the Jura rises up to 1679m in height. It is a mountainous area, providing microclimates that could rapidly cause adverse weather conditions as seen in the Alps, even though it is considerably lower than most of the mountainous regions of Switzerland. Close to the southern end of the Jura, Mouthe, 10km inside the French border, is regarded as the ‘French Siberia’ because its temperature dropped to -41ºC in 1985. The underground glacier in Saint-George (Stage 13) remains frozen year round, demonstrating the extreme temperatures that can occur on the Jura.
The best time to hike the Jura Crest Trail is between the months of May and September but do be aware that some mountain buvettes and hotels may not open until June, and potentially close at the end of August. Alpine flowers, such as crocus and spring gentians, can be seen as early as April on the Jura, depending on the winter temperatures and late snowfall. Wildflowers carpet the hillsides throughout most of the walking season.
Sudden storms can occur during August, as happens in the Alps, because of the moisture, the ground temperature and rapid rise of warm air, as well as microclimate developments such as weather movement across Lake Geneva. Also be aware that the temperature drops significantly at night during the summer months, so be prepared with warm clothing and be sufficiently equipped.
The maritime-continental climate of the Jura, alongside the height of mountain summits, means that annual precipitation increases as you travel south-west, with Mount Tendre having up to 2030mm of rainfall a year. On average, more heavy rain falls during the summer than in any other season, which is due to increased humidity, temperatures and the afternoon storms that develop in the Alps. For example, the pass over the Vue des Alpes (Stage 7) sees the most precipitation in the months of June to September, with monthly average rainfall of up to 120mm.
View south from Dent de Vaulion (Stage 11)
Suggested itineraries
The route is described in 14 stages (2 weeks), averaging 22km per day. Quicker or more relaxed itineraries are possible and suggested 12, 16 and 21-day schedules are set out here. It is possible to walk the whole route in a slightly shorter timeframe of 12 days, or over a slightly longer period, which would allow for shorter daily stages, optional rest days and more time for sightseeing in places of interest. The suggestions below can be adapted to suit your own individual requirements. In the option taking 16 days, Stages 11 and 12 could be combined to add an additional rest day. In the option taking 21 days, shorter walking days at the start of the trek allow time to explore the historic spa town of Baden and picturesque Brugg.
The view towards Hauenstein is typical of the Jura landscape (Stage 2)
Shortening the trek
Not everyone tempted by the Jura Crest Trail will be able to complete 14 days of walking. Presented below are suggestions for two shorter trips and a fortnight break, combining highlights of the route with local sightseeing excursions.
Walk 1: Dielsdorf to Brugg (Stages 1 and 2 over a long weekend) – Both the start and end location of these stages (finishing in Brugg, not Ursprung) are within easy reach of Zurich international airport and regional train lines; with minimal travelling times, there is more time available to enjoy the first stages of the Jura Crest Trail, and explore the city sights of Baden and Brugg.
Walk 2: Le Pont to Nyon (Stages 11–14 over one week) – With opportunities to spend an extra day at Le Pont you can enjoy a visit to the Grand Risoux Forest and learn about the passeurs, a tour of Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese museum at Les Charbonieres or a paddle on the lake, before summiting Dent de Vaulion and continuing Stage 11. At the end of Stage 14, spend an extra day in Nyon and explore the historic town and Lake Geneva.
Walk 3: Hauenstein to Le Pont (Stages 3–11 over two weeks) – Following a day’s travel, depart Hauenstein for a World War I and World War II historic first day. Continue Stages 4 and 5, taking a day of rest in Biel/Bienne, exploring the Frinvillier gorge. Start the steep ascent to Chasseral, continuing Stages 6–8 to Noiraigue, dropping off the trail to Neuchâtel to see the lake and old town. Continue on Stages 9–11, spending a day exploring Lac du Joux and the surrounding sights.
Getting there and around
By air
There are two main Swiss international airports: Zurich and Geneva, both of which have numerous scheduled flights daily from most UK and European airports. Zurich is the nearest airport to the start of the Jura Crest Trail, although a return flight to Geneva may be the better option to minimise costs and open more options in terms of flight times and locations to travel between. Both airports are accessible by public transport, in particular main line train stations, from almost anywhere in Switzerland.
The flight time between London and both Swiss airports is one hour 40 minutes. The main carriers that provide flights between the UK and Zurich are: British Airways (www.britishairways.com), SWISS (www.swiss.com), Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) and Edelweiss Air (www.flyedelweiss.com). Over 24 European airlines fly into Zurich from a range of destinations, alongside international flights to over 62 countries worldwide. Carriers flying between the UK and Geneva include: British Airways, SWISS, Easyjet, Flybe (www.flybe.com), Jet2 (www.jet2.com) and TUI (www.tui.co.uk). Over 55 international airlines from around the world fly into Geneva airport, making it an accessible transport hub for the Jura Crest Trail.
From Zurich Airport, you can either take the bus or the train, travelling to the start of the route in Dielsdorf within 30 minutes of leaving the airport. With only one connection, if you time it right, you can travel by train between Geneva Airport and Dielsdorf in just three hours 40 minutes, changing at Zurich.
From Nyon, Geneva Airport is only 25 minutes away on the fast, direct train, and up to 33 minutes away on the regional, changing onto the connecting train at Geneva. To travel back to Zurich Airport from Nyon, the journey will take three hours, with one connection, changing at Zurich.
By rail
Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) and TGV (https://en.oui.sncf/en/tgv) make it surprisingly easy to travel between London and Zurich by train in seven hours 30 minutes, via Paris Gare du Nord. The Eurostar departs London St Pancras up to six times daily during the week and up to four times daily at weekends. Taking the TGV and Eurostar back to London from Geneva is under seven hours in duration, via Paris, leaving Switzerland up to seven times daily on a weekday, and up to four times daily on a weekend.
Please note that Eurostar operate the trains under the English Channel, between London and Paris Gare du Nord and TGV operate the trains from the Gare de Lyon and Switzerland, therefore it is necessary to transfer upon arrival. There is a direct Metro line between the railway stations taking approximately 35 minutes costing €2, or alternatively a taxi can be taken which takes approximately 25 minutes in typical daytime traffic and costs about €25.
The start of the 750m ascent from Balsthal train station (Stage 4)
SwissPass Half-Fare travelcard
For discount travel throughout Switzerland, making use of trains, buses, boats and mountain railways, purchase the SwissPass Half-Fare travelcard for 120 CHF. You can purchase it online or at the train station, although you must have a passport photo and identification with you. The pass lasts for one month, therefore if you are undertaking long journeys, for example from Geneva airport to Dielsdorf, it may be worth purchasing it.
Intermediary access
Access to the Jura Crest Trail is frequent and reliable due to the extensive public transport system in Switzerland. The topography of the Jura leads to regular undulating features such as cols, which provide good access to the trail. Details can be found in stage information boxes at the start of each section of the trail.
Accommodation
Generally the stages have several options to choose from, enabling the hiker to select the most appropriate to their needs. With the Jura Crest Trail being close to civilisation, there is always accommodation available. Unfortunately, this is not always accessible on the route, and instead you may be required to travel into a local town. This is also true of budget accommodation, whereby mountain hotels may be accessible upon a summit, but at a costly price; a hostel or campsite off the mountain completely is often much cheaper.
Outline details and suggestions are provided throughout the guide where accommodation exists. These are also provided in Appendix A. Contact details such as telephone numbers and email addresses have been provided, as booking ahead is recommended. The Jura is busy during July and August and accommodation must be reserved in advance. Outside of these months, some lodgings shut completely, opening only if booked in advance.
On average, hotel prices in Switzerland compare reasonably to the UK and provide good quality accommodation and amenities for the night. Dormitories in mountain huts and hotels provide the cheapest accommodation along the route, although can sometimes be quite basic, involving rooms laid with mattresses. Throughout the Jura Crest Trail, Club Alpine Suisse (CAS) huts are available as cheaper options to hotels. The Swiss Alpine Club is a well-established and prestigious organisation that promotes mountain sports. Basic dormitories are provided at a discount for members, alongside a kitchen area for the self-sufficient backpacker. The dormitory rooms must be booked in advance to ensure you have access, as they are not always manned. Another basic type of accommodation found in several places along the route is ‘sleeping on straw’ (schlaf im stroh ), whereby you bring your own sleeping bag and enjoy a night in a barn. This traditional type of lodging is popular and enjoyable. Camping is an option along the route in designated campsites. Off-site or wild camping is officially prohibited in Switzerland, but if you are discreet and pitched off the route, away from habitation, a single night should not be an issue.
A typical CAS hut sleeping area
Food and drink
The mountain restaurants and buvettes in the Jura are popular with both hikers and locals, as most have vehicular access and parking spaces. The term ‘buvette’ derives from ancient French and translates as a small refreshment room or bar where drinks and snacks are sold. Popular throughout the Jura, these small farm buildings, which are occupied for several months of the year, in particular from June to August offer a selection of beverages and meals for the hiker. In recent years, they have become quite fashionable, with some providing an outdoor restaurant serving specialities such as fondue, rösti, croûtes, and local meat and cheese dishes.
Throughout the Jura Crest Trail there are ample buvettes to provide a substantial meal during the day, although, as with most restaurants in Switzerland, these can be expensive. Some sections have a limited number of restaurants and buvettes to choose from, such as Stage 2 between Linn and Hauenstein and Stage 6 between Frinvillier and Chasseral, but the route descriptions list those that are available.
Most dishes are based on meat, cheese and bread products and vegetarians are catered for. Some local specialities include:
Rösti: a traditional grated potato fritter dish, originally from the canton of Bern. It is served with your choice of accompaniments from mushrooms and fried eggs, to local cheeses and hams.
Croûte au fromage: a bread-base, toasted and smeared with garlic and brandy, heaped with melted Alpage cheese (local to the area) and baked in an oven. Most buvettes offer additional ingredients such as a slice of local farm ham, a fried egg or mushrooms.
A typical rösti served in most buvettes in the Jura
Fondue: usually served moitié-moitié, meaning half and half (of two cheeses), making use of local cheeses of the area. The dish is always served with rustic bread, and can be accompanied with a plate of local cured meats. Alternatively for meat-lovers, fondue bourguignonne can be found in some buvettes. Instead of a dish of melted cheese, hot oil is provided for meat to be cooked in to your liking.
Raclette: a semi-soft cheese that is melted on small pans over a stove, served with whole baby potatoes, cornichons (small pickled gherkins) and silverskin onions.
Vacherin Mont d’Or: a seasonal (September to April) rich and creamy cheese found in the latter stages of the Jura Crest Trail, in particular throughout the Vallée de Joux. Produced and stored in circular pine boxes made from the Jura forests, the dish is pierced and stuffed with garlic cloves and drizzled with a glass of white wine before being baked in an oven. The dish is served over crushed whole baby potatoes.
Self-catering is a possibility, and provisions are generally quite accessible. This is especially true through stages that pass large conurbations, such as Stage 1 where the towns of Baden and Brugg offer plentiful opportunities. Despite the trail following the high Jura plateau, it passes over cols with public transport, alongside farm roads every few kilometres, enabling access to local towns, facilities such as farm shops, markets and convenience stores, and provisions.
The stages have been organised to start and finish at locations with good access to public transport or amenities such as cols or villages, to assist the independent, self-catering hiker. Some stages have limited provisions along the route, such as between Stages 2 and 3, where only a simple farmers’ market is available in the village of Hauenstein, and between Stages 4 and 5 where basic provisions can be purchased from buvettes and farms. Planning ahead is sometimes required if you choose to self-cater during the early stages.
Language
Switzerland officially has four main languages: German, French, Italian and Romansh, with German being the most spoken language throughout the country. German is spoken for the first six stages of the Jura Crest Trail; French is spoken for the remaining eight stages. English is widely understood and spoken throughout the route, and will almost certainly be spoken by staff at lodgings, resorts and larger towns. A basic English/German/French dictionary can be found in Appendix C at the back of this guidebook.
A welcome sight – a sign for a mountain buvette on the Pâturage de la Montagne (Stage 5)
Money
Switzerland deals in the Swiss Franc (CHF). Despite Switzerland not being in the European Union (EU) or using the euro, the euro is commonly accepted throughout Switzerland, especially at large hotels. Swiss ATMs offer euros as well as the Swiss Franc in some cantons. Banks usually open Monday to Friday during working hours, alongside having an extensive lunch break. It is advisable to carry cash on you when walking the route, as some buvettes do not have access to Wi-Fi for card payment.
What to take
If you are staying in dormitory-style lodgings a sleeping bag liner is generally required. Silk mummy-shaped ones are the lightest to stow away in your backpack. A headtorch with spare batteries are essential pieces of kit in the event that you get lost and need to navigate in the dark. In the summer months, sunset takes place between 2000 and 2100 generally, although this does not negate the need to take sufficient emergency lighting. Do try to keep the weight of your backpack below 10–12kg, including a minimum of 2 litres of water to remain hydrated. Other items you will need include:
Boots: comfortable, lightweight, broken-in boots, with ankle support and a good grip on the soles, essential due to the rocky terrain that you will encounter throughout the trail
Waterproofs: breathable waterproof jacket and trousers are essential even in the summer
Clothing: a wicking base layer, fleece mid-layer and an insulated outer
Hat and gloves: highly recommended, even in the summer
Sun hat, lipsalve, suncream and sunglasses: a lot of the high plateaus of the Jura are exposed, with limited cover from the sun
Trekking poles: lightweight telescopic trekking poles are extremely useful to help to redistribute some of the load on the upper body and reduce the impact on the knees.
Maps
The Swiss have produced very detailed online mapping, considered to be some of the best in the world, that can be downloaded to electronic devices and used offline. Some platforms provide it free of charge, for example Switzerland Mobility, an online free tool to find hikes, bikes, paddles, ski tours and snowshoeing throughout the country. Public rights of way can be discovered, alongside recommended routes.
Swiss paper maps are beautiful, intricately detailed pieces of art. You can purchase waterproof, tear-resistant mapping online, as well as download files, from the Federal Office of Topography, otherwise known as Swiss Topo. As with Harvey’s Maps in the UK, the hiking scale is generally considered to be 1:33,000, although 1:50,000 is recommended if you are completing the full trail to minimise the number of maps you need to carry.
If opting for the Swiss Topo 1:50,000 maps, you would need the following sheets to cover the full route:
Stage 1: 215T Baden
Stage 2: 214T Liestal (only a small part of this map is used)
Stages 2 and 3: 224T Olten
Stages 4 and 5: 223T Delémont
Stage 5: 233T Solothurn (only a small part of this map is used)
Stages 6, 7 and 8: 232T Vallon de Saint-Imier
Stages 8, 9 and 10: 241T Val de Travers
Stages 10, 11 and 12: 251T La Sarraz
Stages 12, 13 and 14: 260T Saint-Cergue
Alternatively, Kümmerly and Frey cover the Jura Crest Trail at 1:60,000 on sheets 3 (Jura), 4 (Basel), 5 (Aargau), 8 (Neuchâtel), 15 (Lausanne – Vallée de Joux) and a small part of sheet 21 (Geneva). They also cover the first third of the trail at 1:50,000 on sheets 9 (Baselland), 10 (Aargau) and Jura (15).
Waymarking and trails
The Jura Crest Trail (also known as the Jura High Route) is regarded as a Swiss classic. The first official waymarked paths were placed in 1905, and the route has since become one of seven national long-distance paths. Therefore, the route is generally clearly marked. There are some places where the markers are hard to find, sometimes due to fencing being relocated, but these parts are clearly identified in the route descriptions contained in the guide.
A large part of the high alpine pastures and slopes of the Jura have been laid to bocage farming, where small sections of farmland have been interspersed with drystone walls and fences; a farming technique more suited to the area, as due to the undulating terrain it is unsuitable for machinery. This leads to a significant number of footpaths being laid throughout the Jura, and therefore the hiker needs to be vigilant and remain on the Jura Crest Trail and not be distracted by additional paths which may take them off the main route.
The signs and walking routes are maintained by the Swiss Hiking Association. Sometimes yellow diamonds are painted on trees, rocks and fences to identify the hiking route. Remember, all hiking paths in Switzerland are identified by yellow markers so be sure to follow the correct one!
Waymarkers along the Jura Crest Trail: Bergweg and Wanderweg (Stage 1)
Trail classification
There are two main types of paths found in Switzerland. Wanderweg hiking paths are identified with yellow markers. These paths are generally well maintained and remain at a low altitude for easy hiking for those with a reasonable level of fitness. These trails are waymarked by yellow diamond signs with a hiker printed in black, or as flashes of yellow paint on rocks or identifiable, prominent features such as walls and trees.
Bergweg mountain paths are identified by red and white markers. These paths generally venture higher in altitude and are more demanding in terms of exposure, difficulty underfoot and steepness. Bergwegs require a safe step, using appropriate walking footwear, alongside the need to orientate yourself and have a good level of fitness.
