Читать книгу Green Fig and Lionfish - Allen Susser - Страница 12
ОглавлениеSeasonal Caribbean
Most people think of the Caribbean as being synonymous with year-round summer. They do not think of it as a place that has seasons, but it does; it has a rhythm of its own. There is a dry season that links winter to spring and a wet season that carries summer through to the fall.
Seasons in the Caribbean influence daily life. That is because most of the food eaten day-to-day by locals is grown on an island. As a chef, I want the best and tastiest ingredients. When cooking with what is in season, you are using ingredients with a higher nutritional value and optimal flavor. Mr. Troubetzkoy, the owner and architect of Jade Mountain, understood what it meant to have local and unique organic Caribbean ingredients for his guests to enjoy. He established his Emerald Estate, a thirty-acre organic farm, to be our source of high quality custom grown fresh tropical fruits, greens, vegetables, and spices solely for the resort’s restaurants.
Taste over trend: Caribbean seasonal flavors dance to a tropical beat. It’s almost impossible to talk about inspired cooking without talking about seasonality. Choosing and working with the right ingredients isn’t hard, but it does require a little know-how and planning to select at optimum taste.
If you spend time in Saint Lucia as I have, from year to year you can experience the seasons’ natural rhythms blending into each other. My favorite is mango season, which begins with beautiful purple or yellow blossoms in the dry season around January. The treetops of most villages blush with these floral colors. Within weeks, tiny pea sized mangos set, replacing the fading flowers. As the rainy season begins, you can see the transformation as the tree branches droop, heavy with clusters of green mangos. And by mid-rainy season, between June and July, the island is dripping with lush mangos in all colors of the rainbow: yellow, red, green, and purple. Mangos are happily devoured fresh out of one’s hand, chopped into salsa and chow chow, or cooked into jams, chutneys, curries, and pepper pots.
In Saint Lucia, the winter markets are filled with pineapple, carambola, and passion fruit along with locally grown citrus, including limes, shaddocks, tangerines, sour oranges, and sweet oranges. You may find that oranges here often have a green skin, as if they are not ripe yet. That is because the nights are not cool enough for the natural chemical reaction to turn them orange. Nonetheless, the local oranges are just as refreshingly juicy and sweet. The Soufriere street market is always beaming with red, green, and yellow seasoning peppers, sweet peppers, and hot peppers. The spice vendors hawk their ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, chandon beni, cilantro, thyme, scallions, and scotch bonnets.
You can always find someone at the market year-round with freshly harvested coconuts piled high in the back of an old pickup, cracking them with his machete. Taste the coconut’s invigorating juice and share some of its sweet tender white flesh. Wooden tabletops are filled with rooty ground provisions such as earthy-tasting yams, sweet potatoes, dasheens, plantains, and green bananas, which are staples in local and Caribbean cooking.
As the tropics heat up into the rainy season, mango, papaya, soursop, watermelon, and guava are abundant. Be on the lookout for breadfruit, chayote, and avocado as they reach their peak season. If you are walking through the market, you are going to want to grab some of these treasures. There is nothing like a tree-ripened, sun-kissed fruit grown just a few miles down the road that was probably picked just that morning.
Happily, seasonal cooking is more sustainable. By focusing on locally grown food, you don’t have to navigate seasonality—that just falls into place naturally. At home in your kitchen, use the seasons to your advantage with beautiful, colorful, and fresh produce as well as fish and shellfish. Feel free to be creative in using these recipes for Caribbean inspiration to adapt to your local regional ingredients.
Fish Cookery
Fish is a backbone of Caribbean life. So much nourishment comes from the sea that surrounds these islands. This simple guide can be as practical in fish cookery of snapper, grouper, mahi-mahi, or kingfish as it is with lionfish. The key to selecting delicious, top quality fish is using your nose. Fresh fish has a clean aroma, a little like the ocean or a salty breeze from a tropical beach.
Starting off with fresh, pristine fish is essential. Have the fishmonger skin the lionfish and remove all the venomous spines so you do not need to worry about any of this. Give your fish a good rinse under cold running water before you cook it. Many home cooks in the Caribbean often add a squeeze of fresh lime juice at this point too.
Baking
Baking is simple and mess free. You can keep your oven temperature moderate and cook the fish gently. I suggest using a pan or ovenproof dish that is just larger than the fish you are baking to catch the flavorful juices that are released close to the fish.
Stewing
Anything and everything is stewed throughout the Caribbean. One-pot cooking has its island traditions based on necessities of conservation and survival. Pot fish, usually a variety of different small fish including lionfish, often find their way into a stove top stew of spices, herbs, peppers, tomatoes, onions, and broth.
Braising
Braising is a common practice in Caribbean fish cookery. Simply place the fish in a pot full of fragrant spices, stock, and vegetables. Put it in the oven and the fish is cooked in those aromatic juices.
Poaching
Poaching is a classic way to cook fish and one of the easiest. It treats fish very gently and results in a tender, flaky, and moist fish. The intensity of the broth surely can make a difference. In the Caribbean, this can range greatly depending on the island’s culinary influences from the French, Spanish, English, Portuguese, or Dutch and how it is balanced by local Creole flavor.
Grilling
Charcoal and wood fire grilling will impart maximum flavor. Build a good fire and let it burn down to hot white ash embers. Clean and oil the grates and liberally brush the fish with oil or butter. When you put the fish on the grill, do not move it around. After a few minutes, just flip it once and, in another minute, off it goes, keeping the flesh moist.
Deep Frying
Deep frying has been a staple of Caribbean fish cooking for generations, yielding crispy, crunchy whole fish, fillets, and chips. This method has also been the most abused and misunderstood. Doing it correctly requires clean vegetable oil (peanut, coconut, or canola oil) to be preheated to a temperature of 375 to 400 degrees to start. Being careful not to overcrowd the deep fryer. Frying the fish golden brown and draining well will bring results that should be finger-licking delicious.
Sautéing
Cooking fish in a fry pan with just enough butter or oil is a simple way to get great tasting results. With lionfish, lightly seasoning the fillets and preheating the pan with the cooking fat will allow the fish to brown quickly. Sautéing is done over moderate heat to allow both sides to be cooked through and finish with a golden brown, moist, and flaky fillet.
Pan Roasting
Pan roasting may be a common restaurant technique, but I feel it serves the home cook well. As with sautéing, use an ovenproof pan that is preheated with just enough oil or butter. However, after sautéing the first side of the fish lightly, it is flipped, and the whole pan is placed in a hot, preheated 375-degree oven to finish cooking with a bit more general heat surrounding it to keep it moist. Aromatic vegetables are often added to the pan to marry the flavors.
Pan Frying
Pan frying is a lot like sautéing but with a lot more oil or butter. The extra fat prevents the fish from sticking while delivering a high-temperature cooking treatment for a crisp exterior.
Spicing the Caribbean
The Caribbean is a giant melting pot of flavors. Caribbean cuisine is influenced by the cooking of many other cultures including India, Africa, Asia, and Europe. Caribbean food is bold, flavorful, spicy, hot, and fresh, and it is truly a world cuisine that stands on its own. The spices that I discuss are not only used in abundance here in the Caribbean, but they were transplanted from their original habitat two or three centuries ago by the European powers of the day in their bid to control the lucrative world spice trade.
The Caribbean Islands constitute a massive archipelago located in the Caribbean Sea that can be subdivided into a few different regions: the Lucayan Archipelago (the Bahamas and the Turks and Caicos Islands), the Greater Antilles (including the Cayman Islands, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Cuba, and Haiti), and the Lesser Antilles or West Indies, including the Leeward and Windward Islands (St. Barthélemy a.k.a. St. Barts, Barbados, Saint Lucia, and Trinidad and Tobago) and the ABC Islands (Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao). There are thirteen sovereign states and seventeen dependent territories in the Caribbean, and the predominant languages are English, Spanish, French, Dutch, and Antillean Creole. The Caribbean sprawls across more than one million square miles and is primarily located between North and South America.
Just as there are many different islands, there are many herbs and spices used in Caribbean cooking. Saint Lucia has a warm and sunny climate with a year-round growing season. Mother Nature is in charge of doling out a dry season and a wet season. Each offers its own unique tropical fruits, citrus, and vegetables, including tree vegetables and root vegetables, for distinct seasonal flavor. Learn to choose and use each season’s best.
With over one hundred spices, leaves, flowers, and herbs used in Caribbean cooking, it is difficult to narrow them down into a simple spice box. The most frequently used herbs include thyme, marjoram, basil, chadon beni, and green onion. Herbs and spices are regularly used for seasoning, and, to this day, they are also still frequently used in local bush remedies that have been passed down from grandmother to mother to daughter. You will probably find some combination of these five spices throughout island cooking.
Caribbean Spices
•Cinnamon is also known loosely as “spice” or “hard spice” locally. It has a sweet, fragrant, woody aroma. Its roots can be traced back to biblical days. It was brought to the Caribbean by the English East India Company.
•Ginger root, introduced to the West Indies by the Spaniards, is a must-have in every Caribbean kitchen. The fresh root is grated to release its sweet rich undertones to flavor several savory dishes with a slightly biting heat.
•Cloves are used in both savory and sweet preparations. One of the top uses of cloves is as an aromatic component in a curry sauce. The Dutch, by the way, held the monopoly on this spice from the 1600s. Cloves can be used whole or ground and have a tasty assertive dark aroma.
•Nutmeg is a pantry staple that is used for beverages such as Caribbean rum punch and other alcoholic drinks. The English planted nutmeg heavily in Grenada toward the end of the eighteenth century. Nutmeg is best when freshly grated. Its rich, fresh, and warm aroma is used to flavor sauces and bitter greens.
•Allspice is a spice that comes from the dried fruit of the allspice evergreen tree or pimento tree. This is the Caribbean’s native spice. It is not a combination of spices as is commonly thought. It is called allspice because when ground, the spice berries taste like a combination of nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper, and cloves. It was this spice that Columbus brought back to Spain, thinking he had found the source of pepper.
Colorful, juicy, crunchy, sweet, bitter, herby, spicy… One of the great things about the Caribbean is that there are so many flavors and textures to put together, making it exciting to cook. The kitchen is freedom.
Caribbean Spice Box
Creole Spice
•1 teaspoon ginger
•2 teaspoons coriander
•1 teaspoon allspice
•½ teaspoon cinnamon
•2 teaspoons cumin
•½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
•1 teaspoon kosher salt
Jerk Spice
•1 teaspoon cinnamon
•2 teaspoons allspice
•1 teaspoon clove
•1 teaspoon nutmeg
•2 teaspoons black pepper
•1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
•1 teaspoon kosher salt
West Indian Spice
•1 teaspoon ginger
•1 teaspoon coriander
•½ teaspoon cardamom
•1 teaspoon black pepper
•½ teaspoon cinnamon
•1 teaspoon star anise
•1 teaspoon turmeric
•1 teaspoon kosher salt
