Читать книгу Top Trails: Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks - Andrew Dean Nystrom - Страница 11
ОглавлениеCHAPTER 1
Northwest Yellowstone: Mammoth/Gallatin Country
4. Cache Lake and Electric Peak
5. Gallatin Sky Rim Trail
6. Howard Eaton Trail
7. Mammoth Hot Springs
8. Osprey Falls
Overleaf and opposite: Andrew Dean Nystrom on Bunsen Peak (Trail 3)
AREA OVERVIEW
Northwest Yellowstone: Mammoth/Gallatin Country
The northwestern quadrant of Yellowstone National Park includes the developed area around the park’s headquarters at Mammoth Hot Springs and, to the west, the soaring peaks of the Gallatin Range. It is also the park’s lowest and driest region, which makes it a great place to visit in spring, fall, and winter.
The North Entrance, near the sociable gateway town of Gardiner, Montana, is the only park entrance that remains open year-round; the Grand Loop Road remains open year-round between Gardiner and Cooke City. Just before Mammoth Hot Springs, the first-come, first-served Mammoth Campground ($20) is the park’s only year-round campground. Eight miles south of Mammoth, the smaller, National Park Service–run Indian Creek Campground ($15) is in the thick of moose country and is often closed in the spring season because of bear activity.
The region’s diverse terrain includes some of the park’s topographic extremes, ranging from desertlike corridors between 5,300 and 6,000 feet near the park’s northern boundary to several peaks that top out at more than 10,000 feet. Yellowstone’s low-lying Northern Range, which straddles the Montana–Wyoming state line, is a vital overwintering area for migrating wildlife such as pronghorn, elk, bighorn sheep, mule deer, bison, and coyotes between November and May. Like the animals, early- and late-season hikers migrate here to seek refuge from the rest of the park’s extreme weather. These relatively mild conditions also make Mammoth a popular base camp for winter sports such as snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.
In Mammoth, the main visitor center and backcountry office (where permits are issued) are housed adjacent to the park headquarters in the Fort Yellowstone–Mammoth Hot Springs Historic District, in buildings constructed by the US Army during its tenure as park custodian (1886– 1918). Nearby, portions of the updated Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel date back to 1911. Nightly room rates run $150–$262, with cabins available from $98; call 307-344-7311 for information and reservations. The hotel will be closed for renovations during winter 2017.
AREA MAP
TRAIL FEATURES TABLE
Just outside the North Entrance, which was the park’s first major gateway, the large stone Roosevelt Arch was designed by Old Faithful architect Robert Reamer in 1903 to commemorate the completion of the Northern Pacific railway spur line from Livingston to Gardiner, Montana, and the subsequent visit of President Theodore Roosevelt. The top of the arch is inscribed FOR THE BENEFIT AND ENJOYMENT OF THE PEOPLE, a quote from the Organic Act of 1872, the enabling legislation for what was then the world’s first national park. Inside the arch is a sealed time capsule that includes period postcards and a photo of Roosevelt. It was here that the park celebrated the centenary of the National Park Service in 2016.
The railroad’s plans to lay spur lines through the fragile geyser basins and monopolize public access to the park were countered by the lobbying efforts of President Roosevelt’s Boone & Crockett Club, a politically influential pro-hunting group. By 1905 the US Army Corps of Engineers had established the beginnings of today’s Grand Loop Road, and in 1915 the first private automobiles were admitted to the park. In 1916 the newly constituted National Park Service banned horse-drawn wagons from all park roads.
Today, you can still drive or cycle the original gravel stagecoach road (one-way only, except for bicycles and hikers) from Mammoth to Gardiner. It starts behind the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and winds down 5 miles to the North Entrance gate.
Permits and Maps
The year-round Albright Visitor Center and Museum sells a good selection of maps and field guides and is the only place in Yellowstone Park to offer free Wi-Fi. A small museum focuses on history and has a good exhibit on predators and prey upstairs. Rangers also hand out free day-hiking brochures and are a good source of trail updates and general advice. Call 307-344-2263; open daily, 8 a.m.–7 p.m. in summer, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. in winter. For more detailed trail information, head downstairs to the summer-only backcountry office, which issues boating, fishing, and backcountry camping permits and is a wealth of hiking and backpacking information. Call 307-344-2160; the office is open 8 a.m.–noon and 1–4:30 p.m. In spring, fall, and winter, call the park’s operator at 307-344-7381 for advice about where to obtain permits.
National Geographic’s Trails Illustrated Mammoth Hot Springs (no. 303, scale 1:63,360) map depicts all of the trails, trailheads, and campsites mentioned in this chapter. The similar Trails Illustrated Yellowstone National Park (no. 201, scale 1:126,720) map, with trails and mileage way points, has sufficient detail for trip planning and frontcountry hiking but does not depict trailheads or backcountry campsites. A good compromise is Beartooth Publishing’s Yellowstone North (1:80,000).
TRAIL SUMMARIES
Northwest Yellowstone: Mammoth/Gallatin Country
Beaver Ponds Loop
The most popular moderately strenuous day hike in the Mammoth area traverses forested gulches, aspen-dotted meadows, and open sagelands, providing the opportunity to see a wide variety of wildlife, including the occasional moose and black bear. Wildlife is at its most active in the late afternoon.
TRAIL 1
Hike
5.5 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Boiling River
Yellowstone’s premier legal frontcountry soak is a dynamic series of five-star hot pots formed by the confluence of an impressive thermal stream and an icy river. It’s an easily accessible stroll through an attractive river canyon, popular with families, and—for hot-springs aficionados—definitely not to be missed.
TRAIL 2
Hike, Swim
1.0 mile, Out-and-back
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Bunsen Peak
This quick, scenic ascent above timberline is a popular early-season altitude acclimatization route and will give you a real cardio workout. On a clear day, it’s a relatively easy way to gain a panoramic overview of the Northern Range. Waterfall lovers will not want to miss the steep but rewarding side trip to Osprey Falls.
TRAIL 3
Hike
4.2 miles, Out-and-back, or 7 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Cache Lake and Electric Peak
An ambitious and challenging summit hike that offers some of the park’s best views, along with a big sense of achievement and a side trip to a charming lake. It’s best done as an overnighter.
TRAIL 4
Hike, Backpack
21.5 miles, Out-and-back
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Gallatin Sky Rim Trail
A demanding but scenic ridgeline hike in the northwest corner of the park that promises rugged peaks, volcanic cliffs, and huge views.
TRAIL 5
Hike
16.3 or 18.4 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Howard Eaton Trail
This short downhill section of Yellowstone’s longest trail traverses good wildlife habitat and a wide variety of picturesque terrain, including geothermal areas, boulder fields, and the scenic shoulder of Terrace Mountain. It’s most enjoyable if you can arrange a shuttle.
TRAIL 6
Hike
4 miles, Point-to-point, or 6.6 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Mammoth Hot Springs
A network of wooden boardwalks offers a closeup look at the most accessible thermal area in the northern half of the park. While Yellowstone’s most famous geysers wow audiences with their predictable, instantly gratifying performances, Mammoth’s mercurial hot-spring terraces are impressive for both their human history and their drawn-out natural development.
TRAIL 7
Hike
1 mile, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Osprey Falls
A strenuous add-on to the Bunsen Peak Loop, this infrequently visited waterfall awaits at the head of the impressive Sheepeater Canyon. After a long, flat stretch along an abandoned service road through a regenerating burn area, you plunge 800 feet into the deep, narrow canyon.
TRAIL 8
Hike, Bike
10.0 miles, Out-and-back, or 10.2 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
TRAIL 1 NORTHWEST YELLOWSTONE
Beaver Ponds Loop
TRAIL USE
Hike
LENGTH
5.5 miles, 2.5–3 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±400
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Stream
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Great Views
Historic Interest
Geologic Interest
Steep
FACILITIES
Visitor Center
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
Phone
Water
The most popular moderately difficult loop near Mammoth traverses a range of habitats and provides the opportunity to see a wide variety of wildlife, including the occasional black bear.
Best Time
The trail is hikable May–October. During summer, the exposed portions of the route are hot and dry. Wildflowers bloom early here, and aspen groves color the hillside starting in September. Wildlife is most abundant in spring, fall, and winter. The beavers are at their busiest in the late afternoon.
Finding the Trail
From the Grand Loop Road junction in front of the Albright Visitor Center, the Sepulcher Mountain/Beaver Ponds trailhead (1K1) parking area is 0.25 mile south toward Norris Junction. The signed trail-head is at the foot of Clematis Gulch, between an old stone park-employee residence and the dormant hot-spring cone known as Liberty Cap. There are parking lots on both sides of the road, but private vehicles are not allowed to park in the tour bus parking area next to the new restroom facilities.
Logistics
This day hike is one of the only short loop hikes in the northern half of the park and is frequently recommended by rangers at the Albright Visitor Center. It’s also a favorite with park employees early and late in the season. Given all this, it can get busy at times.
Trail Description
From the trailhead parking areas ▸1 near the northern base of the Mammoth Hot Springs terraces, look for a trailhead sign on the main road pointing the way up Clematis Gulch, between the dormant Liberty Cap hot-spring cone (to your left) and the old stone house next to the restroom facility and tour bus parking area (to your right).
Beyond the Sepulcher Mountain trailhead, ▸2 the path crosses Clematis Creek a couple of times on wooden footbridges as it climbs into shady mixed spruce–fir forest. Ignore the Howard Eaton Trail, which cuts uphill just before the second bridge, and continue to your right across the creek.
Steep
Beyond this bridge, the trail swings away from the north bank of the creek and switchbacks sharply around a juniper- and sagebrush-studded ridge to the Howard Eaton–Golden Gate Trail junction ▸3 after 0.3 mile. Keep right to finish the calf-stretching 350-foot climb up to the Beaver Ponds Loop Trail junction, ▸4 0.7 mile from the parking areas.
OPTIONS
Starting from Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel
If you’d rather not start out with the steepest part of the hike, you can do the loop in reverse with no difference in elevation gain.
Map Room, Music, and Espresso at Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel
If you have a few minutes to spare, check out the Map Room off the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel lobby. Constructed in 1937, it features a unique map of the United States fashioned from 16 types of wood from nine countries. The map was designed by architect Robert Reamer, who also envisioned the Old Faithful Inn. If you’re staying in the area, check out the schedule of evening talks, slide shows, and live piano music. In the morning (6:30–10 a.m.), there’s an espresso cart in the lobby to get you going.
Old Gardiner Road
If you’re headed north out of the park after the hike, consider taking the scenic, 5-mile gravel stagecoach route down to the North Entrance station in Gardiner.
Male grouse court mates in spring with low-frequency drumming noises they create by rapidly vibrating their wings.
Viewpoint
Beyond this junction, views of Mammoth Hot Springs, Bunsen Peak, and the Lava Creek Bridge on the Mammoth–Tower road open up to the east, with Mount Everts (7,842 feet) tilting to your left in the north. Watch and listen here for strutting sage grouse alongside the trail, especially in early spring.
Birds
Wildlife
The slope eases up as it rolls through sagelands and bird-rich meadows accented by stands of aspen that exhibit the telltale blackened, head-high browsing marks on their trunks, left by sustenance-starved ungulates each winter. As the trail flattens out, it parallels, then passes under, some power lines. Ignore the numerous game trails that branch off the main route here. Where the trail swings east and the views really open up, watch for elk, mule deer, and prong-horn grazing in the sagelands below to your right.
Stream
After passing several mature stands of heavily browsed aspen and crossing a National Park Service service road (which leads up the hill to a radio tower), the trail descends gently through meadows and spruce–fir forest. You cross a seasonal stream via a bridge before reaching the first of several shallow, cattail-fringed beaver ponds ▸5 after 2.5 miles. Look for evidence of the amphibious, hydrological engineers in the form of gnawed-down logs around the shore. The paddle-tailed rodents lie low during the day and are busiest in the late afternoon. Moose are also occasionally spotted browsing nearby in the willow thickets.
Wildlife
The trail undulates and meanders past a couple of small, marshy ponds and crosses four seasonal streams on footbridges over 0.5 mile before arriving at the last and largest of the unnamed ponds. ▸6 Listen for birds as you approach through the trees. The edges of the mixed forest are also a favored haunt of black bears, so make plenty of noise to avoid unpleasant surprises. The trail loops around along the shore, passing a variety of idyllic spots to stop for a picnic lunch. At the outlet, you can admire some of the beavers’ handiwork before carefully crossing over the stream on a simple bridge.
Historic Interest
The trail climbs away from the ponds through open grassland and shady forest, back under more power lines, and past the ruins of an old log cabin before entering a wide-open plateau known as Elk Plaza and more rolling sagelands. Here you get an eye-level view of the geologic layers of the ridgelike Mount Everts across the Gardner River Valley to the north (left).
Geologic Interest
Beyond the Mammoth Area Trails notice board, a trailhead sign ▸7 announces your return to civilization. Continue straight ahead at the old service road intersection, ▸8 and drop down 100 yards on a narrow, rocky trail to the beginning of the gravel, one-way Old Gardiner Road, ▸9 an early stagecoach route that drops 1,000 feet in 5 miles to the park’s North Entrance station.
To return to the trailhead parking areas, ▸10 walk behind the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and left out to the main road. Then turn right and head for Liberty Cap.
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at Sepulcher Mountain/Beaver Ponds parking areas
▸2 0.1 Sepulcher Mountain/Beaver Ponds trailhead
▸3 0.3 Right at Howard Eaton–Golden Gate Trail junction
▸4 0.7 Right at Beaver Ponds Loop Trail junction
▸5 2.5 First of several beaver ponds
▸6 3.0 Last and largest beaver pond
▸7 5.0 Beaver Ponds/Clematis Creek trailhead
▸8 5.1 Straight through old service road intersection
▸9 5.25 Start of Old Gardiner Road
▸10 5.5 Return to trailhead parking areas
TRAIL 2 NORTHWEST YELLOWSTONE
Boiling River
TRAIL USE
Hike
LENGTH
1.0 mile, 1–2 hours, including soaking
VERTICAL FEET
Negligible (±300)
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Out-and-back
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Handicap Access
Stream
Swimming
Geothermal
FACILITIES
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
Yellowstone’s premier frontcountry soak is a dynamic series of five-star hot pots formed by the confluence of an icy river and an impressive thermal stream. It’s fun for the entire family and, as one of few remaining places to legally soak in the US national parks, it’s definitely not to be missed.
Best Time
Soaking in the mix of cool and near-boiling water is most enjoyable in early morning or late afternoon and best avoided in the midday summer sun. Visiting in the winter is a special treat. The area is normally open for soaking July–April, but access is restricted by the National Park Service (NPS) during periods of high spring runoff.
Finding the Trail
The springs do not appear on official NPS park maps and are not named on most other maps, but they are still easy to find. The unsigned turnoff for the parking areas is off the North Entrance Road, almost exactly halfway between the North Entrance gate and the Mammoth Hot Springs Junction, 2.3 miles from either point. Officially, these are the parking areas for the Lava Creek Trail, which leads to the bathing area. The only signs near the parking areas—the main one on the east side of the road and an overflow lot with shady picnic tables on the west side—announce the Wyoming–Montana state line (if headed south from Gardiner) and 45TH PAR ALLEL OF LATITUDE: HALFWAY BETW EEN EQUATOR AND NORTH POLE (if headed north from Mammoth). The signed Lava Creek trailhead (1N3) is on the northeast side of the road, behind the restrooms on the far east side of the gravel parking lot.
The 45th parallel also passes through Minneapolis–Saint Paul, Nova Scotia, Bordeaux, the Black Sea, the Caspian Sea, Mongolia, and the northern tip of the Japanese islands.
Logistics
The Boiling River is generally open for soaking sunrise–sunset, or as late as 5 a.m.–9 p.m. in the high season. Check with the visitor center in Mammoth for the current status. Even though there are few signs, the area is one of the park’s worst-kept secrets and receives up to 200 visitors per day.
Bring drinking water, hiking sandals (flip-flops will fall off in the river), and a towel, plus a flashlight if visiting around sunset. The only changing area is inside the restroom at the trailhead.
Trail Description
Stream
From the far east side of the main parking area ▸1 on the east side of the North Entrance Road, a wide, flat gravel path heads upstream alongside the Gardner River (yes, the river and the town of Gardiner are spelled differently, for no good reason except that Montana is quirky) for about half a mile.
OPTIONS
Mammoth Campground Trail
If you are staying at Mammoth Campground, it’s worth knowing that an alternative path, which is roughly as long as the trail from the parking lot but much steeper, descends 250 feet in elevation from the far northeastern corner of the camping area. The unsigned trailhead is across the North Entrance Road, to the left of the prominent Dude Hill, but there’s no parking here. It’s not uncommon to confuse this route with the signed Lava Creek Trail that starts at a turnout parking area just to the south. The campground office can point you in the right direction.
The steep, unnamed path from the Mammoth Campground ▸2 joins the Lava Creek Trail (also called the Boiling River Trail) just before the main trail winds around the thermal source that emanates from an off-limits cave, thought to be resurfacing runoff from distant Mammoth Hot Springs. The official Boiling River soaking area, ▸3 indicated by split-rail log fencing, is at the far end of the trail, 0.5 mile from the trailhead.
To keep the Boiling River family friendly, a couple of rules are strictly enforced: bathing suits are required, and alcohol is prohibited.
Geothermal
Signs warn of the possible presence of the pathogenic bacteria Naegleria fowleri, but no cases of the rare meningitis caused by the microscopic amoeba have ever been reported here. Just to be safe, do not submerge your head or nose below the water—the amoeba enters the brain via the nasal passages. Symptoms include a runny nose, a sore throat, a severe headache, and in the worst cases, possible death within a few days.
Swimming
Bathing in the near-scalding main thermal channel would be fatal and is prohibited. (See “Bathers Beware”). The actual composition of the dynamic bathing area changes daily and with the seasons. Seek out spots where other soakers are congregating, and beware of direct contact with undiluted thermal water. If you have trouble finding a calm spot where the current does not wash you downstream, try placing a big river stone in your lap.
Do not overdo the soaking, especially if you have to make the steep alternative hike back up to Mammoth Campground afterward. When finished, retrace your steps to the campground or parking areas. ▸4
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at Boiling River/Lava Creek trailhead
▸2 0.4 Junction with trail from Mammoth Campground
▸3 0.5 Boiling River soaking area
▸4 1.0 Return to parking lots
Authors’ Favorite Legally Soakable Hot Springs in Greater Yellowstone
A soak in the natural Boiling River (Trail 2), is a nobrainer if you’re crossing the 45th parallel in the right season. It’s a brilliant hot pot in winter but is closed by spring runoff, often until midsummer. Soaking is most enjoyable here around sunrise or sunset.
North of Yellowstone, in the Paradise Valley, the family-friendly Chico Hot Springs Resort (chicohotsprings.com) is open year-round for swimming and soaking in open-air mineral spring– fed swimming pools.
South of Jackson and east of Hoback Junction, in the Bridger-Teton National Forest, two appealing year-round soaking options await (with U.S. Forest Service campgrounds nearby): the developed Granite Creek Hot Springs pools and the adjacent, undeveloped Granite Creek Falls Hot Springs. Both require a bit of driving (or snowmobiling or dogsledding in winter) to access, and the undeveloped option requires a sometimes-tricky and icy-cold creek ford, but the consensus is that the juice is well worth the squeeze.
For our money, the Bechler’s Dunanda Falls Creek Hot Springs (Trail 27) and the Ferris Fork natural whirlpool (aka Mr. Bubbles; Trail 25 for a photo) are the holy grail of primitive backcountry Wyoming soaking spots. Both require lengthy hikes to access, and there’s good camping nearby. Dunanda Falls can be visited in a day, but Ferris Fork requires a backpacking trip. En route to Union Falls (Trail 34), Ouzel Pool (aka Scout Pool) is a soothing warm-water swimming hole. Nearby, thermally fed Mountain Ash Creek is yet another swell option for refreshing weary bones.
If you’re still desperate for a hot soak but can’t find one, the hot public showers at Old Faithful Inn (see page 199) are passable surrogates, as I first discovered after bicycling through Yellowstone on a frosty July morning, when my hands were so frozen that I could no longer properly clamp down on the brakes!
Washburn Hot Springs, an optional destination for the Mount Washburn hike (Trail 18)
TRAIL 3 NORTHWEST YELLOWSTONE
Bunsen Peak
TRAIL USE
Hike
LENGTH
4.2 miles, 3 hours, or
7.0 miles, 5.5 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±1300
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Out-and-back or Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Mountain
Summit
Wildflowers
Wildlife
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Geologic Interest
Steep
FACILITIES
None
This scenic, heart-pumping ascent is a popular early-season altitude acclimatization route. Many folks hike in jeans and tennis shoes, but boots and trekking poles come in handy for the scree slopes, especially if you opt for the full loop or the steep side trip to Osprey Falls.
Best Time
The trail is hikable May–October: snow lingers on the trail near the summit as late as June, but the south-facing slope is free of heavy snow earlier than most peaks in the park. Other than snowmelt, there is no water along the entire route. There is precious little shade along the way, so it is best to hike early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Early afternoon thundershowers (locally known as rollers)—and lightning—are common. No matter what the weather is like at the trailhead, pack a jacket for the typically brisk weather up top.
Finding the Trail
From Mammoth, go 4.5 miles south on Grand Loop Road (US 89) and turn left into the gravel Bunsen Peak trailhead (1K4) parking area on the east side of the road (just past the Golden Gate). From Norris Canyon Road, go 16.5 miles north on Grand Loop Road and turn right into the parking area. Get here early to secure a space in this small and popular lot. If the parking area is full, try the smaller pullouts farther along the main road.
Trail Description
From beyond the service road barrier at the Bunsen Peak trailhead ▸1 parking area, the singletrack earthen trail splits off from Old Bunsen Peak Road at a signed junction ▸2 opposite a few waterfowl-rich ponds. Just up the hill through some sagebrush, a notice board ▸3 has a map of trails in the Mammoth region.
The patchwork “burn mosaic” pattern left by the 1988 fires, most evident from Grand Loop Road, demonstrates how supposedly catastrophic fires can actually open up new ecological niches.
The doubletrack gravel trail winds gently up through lodgepole pines in a regenerating burn mosaic created by the 1988 North Fork Fire. Thanks to the burn, in spring and summer this section is often festooned with wildflowers. The trail climbs scenically above Rustic Falls and the Golden Gate, with the Howard Eaton Trail sometimes visible off to the left above the rocky white jumble known as The Hoodoos.
Viewpoint
From here, you can also spot your destination atop Bunsen Peak, just to the right of the telecommunications equipment. Behind you are expansive views back over Gardner’s Hole, Swan Lake Flat, and beyond to the Gallatin Range. The trail flattens out through an area dotted with snags as it swings away from Grand Loop Road and heads for the summit.
Wildlife
Viewpoint
As you climb through remnants of a mature spruce–fir forest on the southwest-facing slope, heading toward the first switchbacks, watch for the stoic bighorn sheep (some with radio collars) that inhabit the scree slopes below the summit. In the fall, you can sometimes even hear rutting elk bugling as far away as Mammoth. A little bit more than halfway up, after a couple of gentle switch-backs, there is a good overlook of the Mammoth Hot Springs area; this is near the Cathedral Rock ▸4 outcropping after 1.2 miles.
OPTIONS
Osprey Falls and Loop Trails
To make this trail into a loop, drop down the east side of Bunsen Peak after summiting, and return to the parking area via the Old Bunsen Peak Road, a wide, relatively flat, paved service road that is now unused. This abandoned road is also a popular cross-country ski route; the northern end is an alternative trailhead that is used by park employees but is largely inaccessible to park visitors. Plan on about five hours for the full loop, plus 2.8 miles and an extra couple of hours if you opt to take the steep detour down to Osprey Falls.
Steep
