Читать книгу Kingdoms Of Experience - Andrew Greig - Страница 10

AUGUST ’84 – 6TH NOVEMBER ’84

‘The Mustagh Tower was over, the ropes had all been sold or coiled away. We were sitting in Mrs Davies’ while monsoon rain fell day by day …’

The photograph is in front of me now: Mrs Davies’ hotel, Rawalpindi, mid-August 1984. Mal Duff and I are lounging in old cane chairs, smoking K2 cigarettes and laughing over some forgotten joke. We’re stripped to the waist but sweat still trickles from our arm-pits, for the air is torrid with the monsoon season. I notice with a shock how skinny we both are, how much weight we lost on the Mustagh Tower expedition.

But that was all over, my first and only Himalayan trip, the one that prompted me to take up climbing less than a year before, after Mal’s impulsive suggestion that I come along to support-climb and write a book about it. It had been a deeply satisfying expedition: I’d carried a load to Camp 2, and after many set-backs the four lead climbers all made it to the top and safely back again. It was the second ascent by the West Ridge, the third ascent in all of the Mustagh Tower’s 7,230 metres.

Now Mal and I were on our way home, thinking of bacon, beans and beer and the women we wanted to see again. We drank coffee, smoked and yarned while ineffectual fans whirred overhead, a flat-footed old servant hobbled by, and ghekkos clung miraculously to the wall as they stalked their supper. We were at peace, expecting nothing and looking for nothing.

The renowned Polish climber Voytek joined us, his eyes pale blue and direct, his air one of casual but absolute self-possession as we exchange potted versions of our trips. Then a Norwegian from the ill-fated Trango Peak expedition sat down. Two of his friends had disappeared while abseiling down from the summit; they hadn’t been found and, barring miracles, they’d had it.

There was nothing much we could say about that, so the conversation passed to high-altitude traverses. The Norwegian mentioned that he and his friends had an outside chance of pulling off one of the great ones – a traverse of Everest from North to South, from Tibet to Nepal. They had a permit for both sides of the mountain. But he added it was now unlikely that Norway had enough experienced climbers left to tackle both sides, and they would probably concentrate on the standard South Col route.

Mal seemed distant, only making conversation. I thought he was probably bored, or thinking of home and Liz. Voytek and the Norwegian left; I went to buy more cigarettes. When I returned Mal rocked back in his chair then said with elaborate casualness, ‘How do you fancy raising twenty grand and coming to Everest, Andy?’

A pulse beat in my neck, even though I knew he was joking. ‘Sure, why not?’ I replied, equally casual. ‘But I didn’t know you were interested in Everest.’

‘I’m very interested in the North-East Ridge, the Unclimbed Ridge. It’s the last big route left on Everest. Maybe we could pick up that Norwegian permit for the Tibetan side of the hill. Are you on?’

At least Mal’s jokes are big ones. I lit a K2 cigarette, tipped back my chair and considered for a moment. A ghekko pounced, its jaws closed on its prey with an audible snap. ‘Yes,’ I said.

‘Shall I tell her now, Andy?’

I lean on the bar in an Edinburgh pub and wonder where to begin after three alcohol-free Muslim months.

‘Tell me what?’ Liz Duff asks.

‘Oh, it doesn’t matter,’ Mal replies. I shake my head at his low cunning.

‘You might as well tell me now.’

‘Well, ah … We’re planning to go to Everest in the spring.’

Liz lets go his arm for the first time since we landed in the UK. ‘Oh no you’re not,’ she says firmly.

‘I think I can get a permit for the North-East Ridge of Everest, but I’ll only go if you lads think it’s on and will come.’

Jon Tinker and Sandy Allan look at each other. They’ve just returned to London after the Mustagh Tower trip and found a message in Jon’s parents’ kitchen saying ‘Phone Malcolm’. So they have, and this is what they get.

‘Duff, you’re … crazy!’ Sandy says. A chuckle from the other end of the line. ‘Jon and I will think about it and phone you back.’

They do. ‘We’re coming, but neither of us have any money.’

‘That’s alright. On this size of trip we either get complete sponsorship or else we can’t go.’

Sandy puts the phone down. When he’d seen the message some premonition had told him it would be Everest. But the ‘Unclimbed Ridge’ – ! – Jon shakes his head, laughs, ‘Duff is mountaineering’s answer to Malcolm MacLaren. Or Bonnie Prince Charlie …’

A fantasy, yes. The North-East Ridge, China, Tibet … Malcolm is dreaming and scheming again as he puts down the pints, his right knee jumping restlessly, pulling on another cigarette. He’s a dietician’s nightmare: fuelled on constant coffee, sugar, lager, cigarettes and fast-foods, he has the nerve to be healthy. He is the most dangerous kind of dreamer – one who acts with absolute commitment as though his dreams were already fact, and thus sometimes makes them so. The Mustagh Tower had been a dream ever since as a teenager he’d read Tom Patey’s account of its classic first ascent; he’d planned it, froze and sweated and suffered and climbed till he finally stood on the top, one foot in Pakistan and the other in China. I have a very real chunk of summit rock in my desk drawer to remind me of the power of fantasy.

Mal, Jon and Sandy: they were the core of this latest ploy. They’d shared the Mustagh Tower experience and on the back of that felt ready for something bigger. Maybe one of the great 8,000 metre peaks … But Everest! Perhaps it had come too early, but they couldn’t pass up on the chance. The three of them debated the feasibility and basic strategy of the expedition; their nominations of additional climbers reflected their very different natures, and were to determine the nature of the entire party.

‘There was smiling Sandy Allan, that amiable Hieland honey-bear …’ Sandy with the pale, washed-out blue eyes, often obscured by thin reddish-blond hair falling over his forehead. Strongly built, solid with shoulder and arm muscles built up from rough-necking on North Sea oil rigs, which financed his climbing, he seems to be bigger than he actually is. A casual bear, giving the impression of great strength and stamina held in reserve.

He’d been brought up among the distilling glens of Scotland and as a child spent more and more time wandering among the Cairngorms, finding some kind of backdrop there for his restless thoughts. After doing one Scottish winter route, he’d briefly taken one of Mal’s Alpine climbing courses. ‘It was totally obvious that this youth could become a star,’ Mal said. ‘Immensely strong, persistent, the right sort of temperament, always in control – a natural.’

Sandy found his natural expression in snow/ice climbing. At 25 he finally gave up his job as a trainee distillery manager for the hand-to-mouth existence of the dedicated climber. There followed the customary apprenticeship: Scotland, the Alps in summer, the Alps in winter, some notable ascents, then Nuptse West Ridge with Mal, then the Mustagh Tower.

‘Sandy just grins,’ Mal had said to me before Mustagh, ‘you’ll find him easy to get on with.’ Well, yes, but during the trip and in his diaries afterwards, I found a very different inner man behind that amiable exterior:

Sandy … One look into Jhaved’s eyes and he knows what I want. One straight hit with my axe and I find a good ice placement. C’est la vie, Dominique would say. Don’t worry, Sandy, she’d say. They’ll never know you or what you’ve done.

I fade away to wash by the stream. It’s good to wash the sweat of the hill away, and I watch the dirty soapy water. What right have I to pollute the water here? But it soon turns clear. What right have we to hold opinions? Every right, I say to myself, and then I say if we have the right to opinions, do we have a right to put them to other people to try and change their views? Do we have a right to build a small dam in the stream to make a convenient washing place, it’s OK for us but by what RIGHT? And Jon says, every right. He’s an opinion holder …

And climbing is not so important to me, it’s more the way I feel, the way I react, the language I speak and the words I scribe, the mess that I leave behind, the way that I eat my food … These suit my feelings.

Smiling Sandy Allan indeed! I was astonished that Mal could have shared two expeditions with Sandy and know nothing of his inner nature. Yet the signs were there: his keeping a journal at all times, his inability to stay in one place for more than a few days, the way his glance focuses only briefly on the person he’s talking to. In all our Mustagh photos he is always slightly blurred as if just about to move away, eyes averted or obscured by his hand or his hair.

‘We had to have Jon Tinker, that abrasive Cockney Rasta-man …’ Jon was Sandy’s partner on the Mustagh Tower, but they are very different. He’s a blue-eyed, fair-haired, compact Anglo-Saxon; edgy, alert, intelligent, one of life’s stirrers. I picture him lounging back, exaggeratedly relaxed, hands stuffed in his pockets, obscure reggae dubs on his stereo, while he protests vigorously in his quasi-Cockney accent how lazy and uncompetitive he is. A master of giving stress, of sarcasm, of winding people up. We could never really understand why he tended to treat encounters as a form of verbal arm-wrestling, always looking for the upper hand – and at other times be disarmingly thoughtful, enthusiastic and open. When one has had enough of climbing talk, Jon is a good person for general conversation about music, books, politics, ideas. He is determined not to let climbing be his entire life, though it often seems to be. I came to like him a lot during and after the Mustagh trip. You can say this for Jon, he’s a little fire-cracker; you have to be wide awake when he’s around.

He’d taken a degree in politics and since then has lived largely as a ‘shuffling dosser’, working in climbing shops or guiding between expeditions, perpetually broke. At 24, he was to be the youngest of the Everest team’s lead climbers, having made his name through a series of very bold Alpine winter ascents.

‘I’m convinced I’m going to die on the hill before I’m 30,’ he said once in Glencoe. Then he added, ‘That’s bullshit, of course … I know I’m immortal!’ Pause. ‘Everyone is till they die.’ And when we first talked about Everest he suddenly confessed, ‘My greatest fear is being left to die on the hill. I look at the people I’m climbing with and wonder if they’d stay with me …’

Mal and I drove down to the Lake District one wet day in October to see Chris Bonington. We needed his advice and his support before we could go any further. Bonington knew more about Everest and expedition organization than anyone in the country. Any potential sponsor would come to him to ask if we were worth backing. Most important, he knew the North-East Ridge, having led the only attempt ever made on it, three years before.

We’d quickly read his book1 before driving down. The bare facts made grim reading. Of the four climbers, Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman had both disappeared forever somewhere on the Pinnacles that bar the way to the summit, Dick Renshaw had suffered two strokes, and Bonington himself had finally dropped out from sheer exhaustion. And these were four of the élite, among the finest mountaineers in the world.

I looked at Mal as he drove, his fingers drumming on the wheel. Born in Kenya but brought up in Scotland, I still thought of him as ‘the wild colonial boy’. He has a grizzled, serious, sober air, yet loves high jinks and wild schemes. He once jokingly described his politics to me as ‘crypto-liberal-fascist-anarchist-communist-conservative’ and all those impulses are in his nature. He likes to play himself off against me as an unimaginative, down-to-earth realist, yet at the same time he’s an impulsive romantic.

‘Romantic? Malcolm?!’ I can hear his wife Liz say. ‘He can be romantic, but not about climbing. That makes him sound wet.’

True enough. Mal is about as wet as the Kalahari desert. Yet he is driven by dreams, as mountaineers are. There is nothing practical in climbing a mountain, and suffering and risking your neck for nothing. And certainly impulsive – who else would have asked someone like me with no climbing experience whatsoever on the Mustagh Tower expedition? ‘Well, I’d never met one of you author types and I thought it would be interesting to see what you did when I put you on the spot!’

‘Like a cigarette, youth?’

‘Thanks.’ His head bobbed as he whistled tunelessly, rehearsing the issues he wanted to bring up with Chris Bonington when we arrived. He’s physically and mentally restless; the only time I see him entirely at peace is occasionally in the pub and always when he’s climbing. ‘It’s a wonderful game,’ he once said, ‘only sometimes you look round and realise half your friends aren’t there any more.’ And I wondered what his life expectancy would be if he began getting involved in trips like this. Well over half the people who start climbing in the ‘death zone’ above 7,500 metres wind up dead, and half of the North-East Ridge is above that height …

I cut off this line of thought as Mal cut the ignition and we sat in the car outside Chris Bonington’s house while the rain hammered down.

‘Nice house.’

‘Very.’ Here was a survivor and a success. We picked up our notebooks and the bottle of whisky we’d brought by way of introduction, and dashed for the front door.

We shook hands with Chris and went into his office. While his secretary made coffee we looked around the filing cabinets, the ordered racks of slides, the word-processor, the signed photographs. I felt like a sixth-form schoolboy in the headmaster’s study to discuss his career.

He was brisk and business-like, neither patronizing nor over-effusive. He congratulated Mal on the Mustagh Tower and asked some questions about it. He told us the modified Norwegian expedition was well in hand and he was going with them both as an advisor and climber, hoping to finally make the summit on this his yet-again last time on Everest. They were tackling the now standard South Col route, with sherpas and oxygen, so if the weather behaved they had a good chance.

But did we? Mal outlined the team and tactics he’d been considering, the few areas of improvement he felt could be made on the basis of Chris’s experience on the North-East Ridge. Cut out one of the camps by making the first camp higher; take a slightly larger team; fix ropes across a couple of awkward sections where a lot of load-carrying would be necessary; use tents rather than try to dig a snow-hole below the Rock Buttresses.

Chris listened, letting his eyes flick over Malcolm, assessing him. Then he gave his opinion.

All of Mal’s suggested changes were ones he’d have made. They would probably help. But he had to say he thought we hadn’t a chance of making the summit by that route, ‘And that’s no slight on the team you’ve suggested.’ He believed that the chances of anyone reaching the top of Everest via the North-East Ridge without using oxygen were virtually nil – for the first ascent, at least. We might just get through the Pinnacles. No modern mountaineer wants to use oxygen, which is regarded as a backward step and definitely uncool, but if one route in the world merited it, it was the North-East Ridge.

There was an emotional resonance behind his controlled voice, and we realized the depth of involvement Chris must have in the ‘Unclimbed Ridge’. He’d lost two close friends in their oxygenless attempt – no wonder he was emphatic. Mal also thought he was right.

‘But of course you can’t use oxygen,’ Chris added. Using oxygen would vastly increase the number of climbers needed to carry the cylinders (there being no Sherpas in Tibet to help with that donkey-work), which in turn would mean more tents, gear, food, clothing. We’d be talking about nearly 20 high-altitude climbers, and there simply weren’t that many in Britain. Nor could we raise the inordinate amount of money involved, or organize an expedition on that scale in the time we had. A major expedition normally takes two years to set up; we had less than five months before the date set on the Everest permit we hadn’t yet acquired.

Mal nodded, agreed. That was the heart of it: we couldn’t do it without oxygen, but we couldn’t take oxygen.

Even if we still wanted to have a go at it, Chris suggested we enlarge our proposed team from six to more like ten, to allow for the inevitable natural wastage arising from repeated load-carrying and nights sleeping above 7,000 metres. His experience had convinced him that a fast, lightweight, Alpine-style attempt on the Ridge was almost bound to fail, and fail dangerously. A serious attempt would mean a return to something like his 1975 Everest South-West Face expedition, the protracted leap-frog process of a siege-style assault, using many climbers, fixed ropes and camps slowly established up the mountain. But even at that, an attempt to go through the Pinnacles to the summit, leaving the unknown technical problems of the Pinnacles aside, would mean a minimum of three days and nights above 8,000 metres without oxygen – and nothing like that had ever been done.

‘Frankly, I don’t think you have a chance,’ he concluded, ‘but of course you should go for it if you want.’ We shook hands and left.

Discouraged, we drove back north through the rain. Bonington’s evaluation of our problems seemed realistic. Was it worth going any further? We knew the facts. At this point roughly a dozen people had reached the summit of Everest without oxygen; nearly half had died or had to be carried down on the descent. Other than the astonishing Messner and Habeler, they had all been helped by having companions with oxygen to break trail and help them down. Messner and Habeler had naturally taken the most straightforward routes up, a far cry from the North-East Ridge.

We could settle for having ‘an outside chance’ of climbing the Pinnacles only, without oxygen. That would still be a challenge from a mountaineering viewpoint, because above the Pinnacles the North-East Ridge joins the North Col route, so all the ground from there on up has been covered. The ‘route’, the unknown and unclimbed element, could be said to end above the Pinnacles. But that would mean kidding any potential sponsor that we intended to go for the summit; summits matter to sponsors and the public, whereas mountaineers tend to think in terms of ‘the route’ rather than ‘the top’.

‘Mal, it sounds like all we need is two cylinders of oxygen above the Pinnacles,’ I said.

‘Well, sure, but Chris explained why we can’t get involved in a massive oxygen expedition, and I agree,’ Mal replied impatiently.

‘But can’t we just use a minimum of oxygen?’

‘To carry two bottles through the Pinnacles, you’d have to use oxygen to make up for the extra weight.’

‘Well, why not? What I mean is, does oxygen have to be all or nothing? Could we not just use the minimum amount required to end up with two full bottles at the end of the Pinns, for giving you a real chance of going on to the summit?’

Mal drove on in silence, the calculations and permutations clicking through his head. Then he turned to me thoughtfully. ‘You know, it could work if you didn’t use oxygen before 8,000 metres. If two people each carried one cylinder through the Pinns … they’d need another cylinder each … Three days through the Pinns, that would mean …’

He glanced back at the road in time to avoid the oncoming truck that nearly ended the expedition right there and then. We pulled up at a café in Biggar, ordered coffees and began working out logistics on the back of an envelope. Starting from the desiderata of two full cylinders above the Pinnacles, Mal worked backwards using elaborate combinations of flow-rates, half-bottles, changeovers, support along fixed ropes without oxygen … More coffee and more cigarettes as the enthusiasm and excitement began to build and a solution began to appear. One of the most intoxicating moments of any adventure is this phase where you start mapping a dream on to reality and perceive it might just fit.

By the time we left the café, revving with caffeine, nicotine and adrenalin, Mal had concluded the outlines of a possible game-plan: with 13 oxygen cylinders, ten climbers, and some very complex and fragile logistics, we had a chance of making the summit.

When Mal wrote to him outlining the new game-plan, Chris Bonington seemed to agree, and said he would be happy to be our patron for the Expedition (which had now acquired a capital ‘E’ in our minds!). That was a step forward: Chris’s backing gave us some credibility. All we had to do now was secure the permit, raise a team and some £80,000, plan and buy 5 tons of food, tentage, clothing, climbing gear, stoves and gas. There was not time to do things in that sensible order. Instead we had to go full-steam ahead, trying to raise money as though we had a permit, put together a team and start ordering gear as though we had the money, and immediately negotiate with the Chinese as though we had all these. Mal gave up his off-season casual labour and threw himself into organization full-time, and I got my head down over the Mustagh Tower book, which now had a possible early deadline: early March, when we would fly to Peking.

Developments fell into place thick and fast, overlapping and obscuring each other like cards being rapidly shuffled and dealt …

The Team, We were looking for another seven lead climbers. They had to have proven high-altitude abilities; just as important, they had to be able to get on and work together over three intense and stress-filled months. To have any chance of success, this had to be a team effort, demanding a great deal of selfless and possibly unrewarded load-carrying from everyone – so no stars, no prima donnas.

There was a limited field for Mal, Jon and Sandy to choose from. The grim truth was they could number on one hand the surviving British climbers who had been to 8,000 metres, and enquiries proved that all of them had other ploys for spring ’85. There was a new generation of talented, thrusting young mountaineers, but they had concentrated on bold Alpine-style ascents, by very small teams, of hard routes on the ’smaller’ Himalayan peaks. So any team we took to Everest would all be operating above their previous height records just in getting to the foot of the Pinnacles at 8,000 metres. ‘It’s not ideal,’ Mal said, ‘but we’ve all got to start sometime and it might as well be on Everest.’

‘I just don’t know if you’re ready for it, Malcolm,’ Liz said one evening.

‘Look, Liz, what can you tell me about the North-East Ridge that I don’t know already? That it’s very long, very high, very hard, and it’s a death route? I know that. There’s only one way to find out if we’re ready, and that’s to go there. I’ve always jumped in at the deep end, it’s the only way to learn …’

Sandy nominated Bob Barton – an exiled Yorkshireman and self-adopted Scot, working as an instructor at Glenmore Lodge outdoor centre. He had the requisite Scottish and Alpine background, expeditions to the Hindu Kush, Peru, Kenya, Alaska, and two notable Himalayan successes on Kalanka and Bhaghirathi II. Sandy had met him in Chamonix and the Cairngorms and been impressed by his steady, unflappable temperament and quiet determination. A natural team-member, he thought: friendly, selfless, easy-going.

‘Want to come to Everest, Bob?’ Sandy asked over the phone. Bob is a family man who, as he put it, at 37 is ‘old enough not to want to die young’. He’d consider it if it was to be a non-Alpine style attempt with oxygen used above 8,000 metres. Assured that it was, the only remaining problem was that Bob realized his second child was due to be born just before our planned departure for China in early March. He was torn between two events he did not want to miss, but after talking it over with his wife Anna he said ‘Yes’ – and prayed that the baby would arrive on time.

Jon in turn suggested Nick Kekus, with whom he’d climbed on Annapurna III. Nick, like Jon, was known for being young and very bold. He’d made the usual transitions from hill-walking to scrambling to rock-climbing to snow and ice; progressed to the Alps, Kenya, Peru, then the challenge of altitude and sustained big mountains: Kalanka, Shiveling, Annapurna III. He’d just come back from another success on Ganesh II in Nepal and with his appetite for climbing undiminished said ‘Yes, I’ll come.’ Tall, lean, forceful and temperamental, he was the antithesis of calm Bob Barton. He took on the responsibility of organizing food for some dozen people for three months – a massive piece of planning, involving endless letters and phone calls cajoling products from manufacturers and suppliers.

‘Meanwhile in Aberdeen a red beard is munching marzipan …’ Sandy suggested to his friend Andy Nisbet that he get in touch with Mal about Everest. Mal confessed he felt somewhat put on the spot: Andy was a good friend whom he trusted, had a good expedition temperament, was a brilliant technical ice climber – but he had problems at altitude. He’d been with Mal on the West Ridge of Nuptse in 1981, and had beome seriously ill at 6,000 metres. Okay, so they’d rushed the acclimatization a bit, but the fact remained he’d got ill and the others hadn’t. One is seldom given a second chance.

Mal talked it over with Andy, who admitted the problem but believed that given more time to acclimatize he’d be okay. Convinced of his sincerity and commitment, Mal decided to gamble on Andy.

Andy is an Aberdonian with wild red hair and a long pointed beard that some say make him look like a demented garden gnome. He’s ill at ease in company, sits on his hands, fiddles and fidgets, finds it hard to look at people directly; he hides his inner nature and feelings almost completely. If he’s interested in anything other than climbing, not many people know about it. He also has the sweetest tooth in Christendom, living mostly on fudge and whole blocks of marzipan. So he was nominated to work with Nick on food, with particular responsibility for planning hill-food and sweet goodies. He based his projection of our needs on his average daily consumption … When we finally left Tibet we left behind enough chocolate to ruin an entire generation of Tibetan teeth, and my last sight of the ruined Rongbuk monastery was of a beaming old nun munching a Twix bar.

The Permit. Mal and I had arranged to go out for a formal Mustagh celebration meal with his wife Liz, my girlfriend Kathleen Jamie and Adrian Clifford, who had been our doctor on that trip. Just before we set out for the restaurant Mal answered the phone. He walked back in, trying to keep a straight face. He held out his hand. ‘The Nords have given us their permit – we’re on the way.’ We shook on it and went to celebrate one trip by toasting the next.

Of course it wasn’t as simple as that. The Chinese still had to agree to the transfer. The Norwegians wrote to Peking cancelling their permit and recommending us, while we wrote at the same time applying for the route. A long and nerve-wracking wait ensued. By this time we were heavily committed to the trip, without actually having secured the permit – an inadvisable way to proceed but we hadn’t time to play it any other way.

Unfortunately Adrian was unable to come with us again as a support climber and doctor, having just started his obstetrics at Kirkaldy hospital. So we had to look again for a medic who was an experienced climber, had been to altitude, understood the ways of climbers and every aspect of mountain medicine – and was free to go.

Around this time Mal was interviewed in a climbing magazine and mentioned we were still looking for lead climbers and a climbing doctor for the trip. He was promptly smothered by an avalanche of letters:

‘I am a 17 year old student … I’ve always been interested in climbing and go to the Fells most weekends. I’m sure I can carry a 50lb rucksack at 26,000 feet …’

‘I have done some rock climbing and will be in Kathmandu next spring so I can join you on the way in …’ (Overlooking the fact we would be in Tibet, not Nepal.)

‘I have recently retired and have plenty of spare time on my hands …’ The search went on.

The money. Raising £80,000 for a non-profit-making venture was always going to be difficult. Our public profile was so low only the tip of Mal’s nose showed. And we needed the money fast. Only the magic word ‘Everest’, coupled with ‘Unclimbed’ gave us a chance. We drew up and Mal printed at his own expense a small brochure about the Expedition as though it actually existed, and we prepared to make a list of all the possible companies and individuals worth approaching, with an accent on the Scottish ones. It was going to be a big, time-consuming, expensive job. Then Liz Duff had an inspiration: one of their old climbing friends was now working for Saatchi & Saatchi as a strategic planner …

In his London office, Terry Dailey picks up the phone with his customary adrenalin rush. ‘Mal here, Terry. How’s things?’ Terry feels guilty because he’d intended to call Mal to congratulate him on the Mustagh Tower ascent, but had never quite got round to it. ‘Can we meet sometime today?’ Mal continues. ‘I’ve a proposition you might be interested in.’

Terry checks his diary, shuffles some appointments and makes space for lunchtime, sensing something is up. They meet, shake hands and go through the usual pleasantries, Terry dying to ask what it’s all about but knowing Mal enjoys winding people up and will be direct enough when the time comes. Finally he grins at Terry and says simply ‘Everest, North side.’

It is as though Mal has casually lobbed a grenade into Terry’s world. When the dust clears, his heart and mind are racing. China … Tibet … Everest! The fantasies he’d been nursing in his imagination for years, never expecting them to come to anything. And now … He tries to attend to what Mal is saying. ‘Powerful team … Jon Tinker … Sandy … oxygen for the Pinnacles, Bonington …’

Account executive realism re-asserts itself: ‘Okay, that’s the carrot – what do you want from me?’

‘Fund raising. Help us find £80,000 and you come with us as Business Manager and a support climber.’

The possible approaches open up in Terry’s mind: who to talk to, covering letters, the ‘star’ points to put in front of sponsors, a punchy selling brochure … He dimly hears Mal continue ‘… part funding from a book contract … Andy’s agent …’ That’s good, we’ve got to be able to offer publicity. Try for a newspaper deal. TV is the important one. ‘How long do we have?’

‘Six weeks at the most.’

Strategy, credibility, deadlines and brinkmanship are Terry’s meat and drink and daily bread. They give him the same adrenalin as climbing, the hit that makes him feel alive. He walks back to the office in a blur of excitement, and for once finds it difficult to discipline his mind to his next appointment. A rock and ice climber of reasonable standard in Britain and the Alps, keen but definitely a weekend and holiday climber, now to be offered Everest! … He’ll have to find the right moment to talk it over with his wife Annie. How will she react? And she’d always wanted to go to Tibet …

Only a couple of miles away, Chris Watts was going through a very similar experience. Manager of the climbing section of Alpine Sports, where Jon sometimes worked, he’d been an early suggestion for the team. Chris knew very well that he’d been asked not just because of his climbing abilities and experience but also because he was in a perfect position to plan, organize and buy gear for the entire expedition at the best possible rates. He didn’t resent that, just acknowledged it in his level-headed way; to get on a trip like this, everyone would be expected to do something in return. It was worth it. The problem was going to be his wife Sonja. She would be, to put it mildly, pissed off. She was a very talented rock climber who had been largely responsible for Chris taking up climbing after he’d given up competitive cycling and was looking for a new outlet for his energies. Now it was he who was being given all the expedition opportunities. And he’d promised her after the Pakistan trip that on the next expedition they’d go together. Oh dear.

He pushed aside the problem of how to tell her and began methodically drawing up lists of clothing, tentage, climbing gear. He looks like a Rolling Stone in the early phases of dissipation, but at 27 he was manager of the largest outdoor-sports shop in Britain thanks to his sheer drive, coupled with an ordered mind, attention to detail, and absolute absorption with the technical aspects of every kind of equipment. One of nature’s technicians, he would be the Expedition’s Mr Fix-it. He read Bonington’s Unclimbed Ridge and considered the problems and requirements of the North-East Ridge. This gear is going to have to be state-of-the-art: the lightest and warmest and strongest that money can buy and contacts can secure …

I could see the doubt – are these lads serious or just jokers? – in my agent’s eyes when Mal and I went to see her. I didn’t blame her, I sometimes wondered myself. I had three chapters of a potential book about the Mustagh Tower expedition, but no contract for it; I hadn’t yet proven I could write and sell a climbing book, and here we were asking her to find a publisher for another one. All she knew about Malcolm was from my Mustagh letters. Not surprisingly, she hadn’t heard of any of the rest of the team. Mal pointed out why none of the few publicly known climbers were in the team; there was little of the ‘first division’ left, and someone had to come along and replace them. Okay, she’d do what she could, and that was the angle to take – a new generation of Himalayan climbers out to prove themselves. Make virtue out of necessity.

But she couldn’t go far in securing a book or newspaper contract until we definitely had the money to make the Expedition happen. And as Terry was reflecting, one is not likely to attract a sponsor without being able to offer them media coverage. Sponsors want something back for their money, and what they want is good publicity and good public relations.

So where to start? It’s a matter of confidence and credibility, of convincing certain people that you can do what you say you’ll do, that you are serious. Once the first person is committed – be it sponsor, newspaper, patron, publisher – the rest tend to follow. The problem is breaking into that magic circle. At the moment the North-East Ridge expedition existed largely in Mal’s imagination; he believed, he was absolutely convinced that we would make this Expedition happen, that we would go to Tibet in March and have a good chance of climbing the Unclimbed Ridge.

The offices of ITN News were round the corner from Terry’s office. He went there with an outline of the Expedition and found enthusiastic interest from ITN, who have a history of covering and supporting a variety of British adventures. They agreed in principle to buy film reports of the trip. That was the first step into the magic circle of media and money; now we could offer coverage, it was time to make a pitch for major financial backing.

The Expedition brochure Terry produced was a remarkable one, and should be essential reference material for any expedition seeking sponsorship. Terry posed the potential sponsor’s question ‘What’s in it for me?’ and answered it so persuasively and exhaustively that it had us practically reaching for our own cheque-books. And so he sent out the brightly baited hooks and we waited for a bite …

Chris Bonington makes an accute comment on sponsorship in his book Everest the Hard Way. Financial considerations alone don’t make a company decide to sponsor a project of this sort. The notion has to fire the imagination of a few key people – and then they sit down to try to justify it financially.

And so it was with David Wood, the Communications Manager of Pilkington Brothers, the world’s largest glass and glass-related products company. The last major route on Everest, a new young British team, Tibet, China … And it just happened that the company was rethinking its sponsorship strategy. He picked up the phone and talked to Terry: ‘We’re interested, please send us more information for a Board Meeting this Friday.’

Terry’s proposals went before the Board Meeting, and it happened that the Company Secretary was David Bricknell, a marathon-running outdoor enthusiast and armchair climber who noticed that Terry’s sponsorship proposals included the option for a sponsor’s representative going to Everest with the team …

‘David Wood here, Terry. If we can call it the Pilkington Everest Expedition, we’ll put up £80,000 and not a penny more.’

1Everest: the Unclimbed Ridge. Hodder & Stoughton, 1983