Читать книгу Walking in the Brianconnais - Andrew McCluggage - Страница 11
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Dominated on all sides by jagged peaks, and perched on a rocky spur at the nucleus of five beautiful valleys, the city of Briançon lies almost at the southernmost tip of the main Alpine range. It is the highest city in France (at 1326m above sea level) and it is the beating heart of the Briançonnais, the region to which it gives its name.
The Briançonnais is a stunning mountain wilderness packed with everything one would expect from a high alpine environment: snow-capped peaks, green valleys and pastures filled with the sound of cow bells, sparkling alpine lakes full of trout, an abundance of wild flowers and a labyrinth of paths.
The glaciers of la Meije reflected in Lac Noir (Walk 40)
However, despite these attractions, the Briançonnais does not receive the volume of visitors that the wealthier, glitzier Northern Alps enjoy. It is geographically more isolated, being further from motorways and transport hubs such as Geneva. And often the area is overlooked in favour of mountains within national parks, which are more marketable. Yet anyone who has visited this amazing region will tell you that this is ludicrous. Although only part of the Briançonnais falls within a national park – the Écrins National Park (Parc National des Écrins) – it is as scenic and unspoilt as any mountain region in Europe.
In particular, the Briançonnais has largely been overlooked by English speaking walkers who have tended to favour the more easily accessible mountains around Geneva. This is a significant advantage for the walker who will find (save during the six peak summer weeks) largely empty tracks and paths among indescribable beauty. Outside of peak times it is not unusual to spend a whole day hiking in these wonderful mountains without encountering another soul. Even during peak times, the mountains here are tranquil compared to many other better known regions. In the age of mass tourism this is truly a rarity in the Alps. In short, those who favour solitude will feel like they have died and gone to heaven.
Cervières and the Cerveyrette Valley as seen on the climb to l’Alp du Pied (Walk 12)
Such statements may sound like tourist office hyperbole, but they are supported by statistics. For example, the Écrins National Park (the northeast section of which contains part of the Briançonnais) is approximately half the size of the Lake District National Park in the UK, which attracts approximately 16 million visitors each year. Yet the Écrins National Park apparently only gets around 800,000 visitors. This suggests that the Briançonnais receives a mere 10 per cent of the visitors per km² that the Lake District attracts.
Perhaps as a consequence of the lack of visitors and its relative remoteness, the Briançonnais has not been exposed to as much development as the Northern Alps, retaining a rural feel which has largely died out elsewhere. The Hautes Alpes in which Briançon resides is one of the least affluent regions of France. It remains a French region for French people, and exhibits a charm often extinct in more touristy areas. Here, one finds few large ski resorts scarring the landscape. Absent, too, are the millionaires’ chalets found elsewhere. This absence of development and pretension is one reason that aficionados of the region are fiercely loyal to it.
Another major draw is the climate. Briançon reputedly enjoys 300 days of sunshine each year, or so the locals are fond of saying. This may or may not be true in any particular year, but the climate is milder than the Northern Alps. For walkers this results in more sunny days, higher daytime and evening temperatures and less rain than in alpine regions further north. Anyone who has travelled hundreds of miles for a week’s holiday in the mountains, only to be forced indoors by inclement weather for most of that week, will readily confirm that favourable odds on sunshine are not to be discounted lightly.
To get a brief flavour of the region you could watch a stage of the Tour de France, the world’s greatest cycling race, which takes place over three weeks each July. If the highlight of the race each year is its foray into the Alps, the highlight of each Alpine foray is often the race’s journey into the Briançonnais. Make no mistake, this is one of cycling’s true heartlands, soaked in almost a century of cycling history. Every few years the race passes through Briançon (sometimes twice!), or makes its tortuous way over one or more of the region’s famous cycling cols, such as the Col du Galibier, the Col de Lautaret or the Col d’Izoard. Cycling fans will therefore have glimpsed the scale and majesty of these mountains. But walkers from outside France are unlikely to have even heard of the Briançonnais. And therein lies its charm!
The beautiful Clarée Valley is a highlight of the region (Walk 8)
As regards the geography of the region, five principal valleys (named after the rivers which flow along them) form the spokes of a cartwheel, with Briançon at the hub. Each valley has a section of this book devoted to it, and a detailed summary of each valley is set out below. Starting in the north, there is the picture postcard that is the Clarée Valley. Moving clockwise are the less visited mountains around the Cerveyrette Valley and the Ayes Valley, to the east. Then there is the part of the mighty Durance Valley, which runs just to the south of Briançon, together with three peaceful and little known tributaries which border the Écrins National Park – the well hidden and unpopulated Fournel Valley, the tranquil Freissinières Valley and the Vallouise Valley, perhaps the jewel in the crown. The fifth spoke is the wide Guisane Valley to the west. Finally, the sixth section of this book focuses on the mountains to the northeast of the city around Montgenèvre, which are littered with hill forts and overlook the Italian border.
The Torrent de l’Orceyrette just above the lake of the same name (Walk 19)
Valleys of the Briançonnais and Montgenèvre
Clarée Valley
The Clarée Valley is, for many, the highlight of the Briançonnais, and is surely one of the most picturesque places in the Alps. A long, wide valley of stunning grassy pastures, it is bisected by the crystal clear, fast flowing River Clarée and flanked on both sides by wonderful snowy peaks. The villages in the valley are small and undeveloped and you get a clear sense of times gone by.
The opportunities for the walker here are myriad, and a book could be written on this magnificent alpine wilderness alone. Many of the routes in this valley are long but no apology is made: this is epic walking country.
Cerveyrette Valley
This idyllic valley is well known to road cyclists who use it to mount an assault on the famous Col d’Izoard. It is less frequented by walkers, however, which is surprising, given its appeal. The valley’s main village is Cervières, which makes a lovely place to spend the night. There are also a number of charming hamlets, not least les Fonts, which has a refuge.
The valley stretches out to the southeast extremities of the Briançonnais, where it meets the stunning Queyras, another relatively unknown mountain range adjacent to the Italian frontier. If you are looking for peace and quiet then the Cerveyrette is the place. Take your time here and soak up the atmosphere among some very fine alpine scenery.
Ayes Valley
Owing to its relative inaccessibility, this small valley is one of the least frequented places in the Briançonnais. The narrow access roads still have gravel surfaces in places. Although they are normally accessible to all vehicles, the going is slow. Use this as an excuse to take your time – those that make the effort will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful places that the region has to offer.
The walks described here are just a snapshot of those available, but they showcase many of its highlights – crystal clear lakes, historic forts, icy cols and snowy peaks. This valley should not be overlooked.
Durance Valley
The mighty River Durance runs more than 300km, all the way from its source near Montgenèvre to the River Rhône near Avignon. By the time it reaches Briançon it is already a wide and powerful torrent and is a dominant feature of the city and its surrounds. As it gushes south from Briançon through a wide valley with high mountains on both sides, it is nourished with water flowing through a series of unspoilt tributary valleys.
The walks in this section explore a number of these tributary valleys which are located on the fringes of the Écrins National Park. Each one has its own unique delights. There is the stunning Vallouise Valley, with its pretty villages and hamlets, which makes a fantastic base. There is the bucolic Freissinières Valley, with its sparkling high altitude lakes. And there is the little known Fournel Valley, with its staggering wild flower collection, including the famous and rare Chardon Bleu.
And this is only scratching the surface. There are so many valleys in this part of the region that it would take a lifetime to explore them all. Indeed an entire book could easily be devoted to this part of the Durance Valley alone. One thing is certain – if you take the time to walk one of the routes here then you will come back for more.
Guisane Valley
The wide and wonderful Guisane Valley, which runs southeast towards Briançon, has some of the best walking in the region, if not the whole of the Alps. The mountains on the north side of the valley separate the Guisane from the Clarée Valley and therefore any route there will offer amazing views down into the Clarée. Meanwhile, bordering the south side of the Guisane is the spectacular Écrins National Park so the walks in the Guisane normally offer magnificent views of that huge and very special mountain wilderness.
Needless to say, the walking in this part of the Briançonnais is exceptional. Once again, this is only a small selection of the available possibilities but it will be enough to whet your appetite for more.
Montgenèvre
Montgenèvre is a small but busy ski resort in the winter, yet it is relatively quiet in the summer. It sits on the Italian–French frontier and is the staging point for some incredible walking, with views extending west towards Briançon and the Écrins National Park, east into Italy and south over the Cerveyrette Valley and the Queyras.
As a ski resort, there is some ski infrastructure present, but it is small-scale and discrete and quickly recedes as you gain height after leaving the resort, so this should not put you off.
The walking here is varied. There are easy low level walks close to Montgenèvre, and strenuous high altitude outings such as the climb of Mont Chaberton. For those who are interested in hill fortifications, there is plenty to see here.
History
The Briançonnais formed part of the kingdom of the Celtic King Cottius, who accepted the protection of the Roman Emperor Augustus around 13BC. Cottius became the prefect of the region, and reported to Rome. Brigantium was the Roman name for Briançon. During the 5th century, with the weakening of the Roman Empire, the Briançonnais was incorporated into the Kingdom of Burgandy.
The well preserved stone buildings of the hamlet of Bouchier (Walk 27)
In AD534 the Kingdom of Burgandy was conquered by the Franks. With the decline of the Franks, the Briançonnais became part of the huge kingdom of Arles and Vienne which stretched all the way from Basle to the Mediterranean. Around 1023 the Briançonnais came into the hands of the Counts of Albon, who became the Dauphins of Viennois, and in the 12th century it became part of the Dauphiné.
In the 13th and 14th centuries Briançon emerged as a prosperous market town benefitting from its prominent location on an important trading route between regions that are now part of France and Italy. The old town was constructed between 1196 and 1228. In 1343 the last Dauphin, Humbert II, conceded many of his feudal privileges to the Briançonnais, resulting in the formation of the République des Escartons du Briançonnais. The Dauphiné as a whole was sold to the French Crown in 1349.
Fort des Salettes seen from Briançon (Walks 30 and 31)
The threat of a invasion of the Briançonnais by the House of Savoy led to substantial strengthening of Briançon’s fortifications between 1692 and 1740. The architect of the work was the military engineer Marquis de Vauban (1633–1707), who shaped so many towns in France in the second half of the 17th century. He may not have overseen the construction of all of the fortifications (many of which were completed by later generations), but the idea of protecting the city with a ring of forts on the surrounding peaks and ridges was his. Briançon’s Cité Vauban and other forts were part of these works (see Appendix B). Many of the forts are well preserved and a number of them are destinations of walks in this book.
Fort de l’Olive with an autumn cloud inversion in the valley below (Walk 2)
In 1789 all traditional provinces in France were replaced by 83 départements answerable to the central government. This sounded the death knell for the République des Escartons du Briançonnais – the Briançonnais became part of the Département de l’Est Dauphine, which was later to become the Hautes Alpes, as it is known today. The French Revolution (1789–1799) led to occasional riots in the region, but the impact was minor when compared to many other areas of France.
Throughout the 19th century new military threats (including technological advancements with artillery) led to Vauban’s fortifications being further strengthened. Some new forts were constructed during this period.
The Briançonnais saw no fighting during the First World War, but thousands of young men lost their lives fighting in other parts of France. During the Second World War, the region was occupied by the Italians (still allied with Germany) from 1940 to 1942: it is said that they were relatively civilised masters. When Italy switched sides in September 1943 things changed significantly, as a more stringent German presence was then maintained in Briançon. Various resistance organisations were active in the region, attacking German supply routes. Briançon was finally liberated in September 1944.
After the war, with the decline of traditional industries such as coal mining and silk production, the development of a ski resort at Chantemerle in the Guisane Valley, which had commenced in the 1930s, continued in earnest. In the 1950s and 1960s Serre Chevalier became firmly established as a credible ski resort. In the 1980s a ski lift was finally constructed in Briançon itself. Other than agriculture, tourism is the principal industry in Briançonnais.
Wildlife
There are many animals and birds which may be encountered in the Briançonnais. As a general rule of thumb, the earlier hours of the morning are best for sightings. Very often the first party on the trail may see many Chamois or Bouquetin, but following groups will not see any. The following is a list of key species to look out for:
Bouquetin (or Ibex) is a stocky goat-like animal, with long scimitar shaped horns. Hunted almost to extinction, it was saved by the Savoy kings who banned most hunting in 1821 and created a royal reserve in 1856 (which finally became Italy’s Gran Paradiso National Park). Nowadays they are fairly widespread throughout the French Alps.
A Bouquetin relaxing near l’Aiguillette du Lauzet (Walk 38)
Chamois is another type of mountain goat which is smaller and slimmer than the Bouquetin, and has shorter horns which do not have deep ridges.
Deer are commonly seen, especially the Chevreuil (Roe Deer) which can be reddish or grey-brown, and the Daim (Fallow Deer) which tends to be brown with white spots. Deer are most likely to be spotted below the tree line.
A marmot never fails to put a smile on your face
Marmots are cute, fat, loveable rodents which are easy to spot. They live in colonies in grassy parts of the mountains and often you will see them standing on their hind legs in the manner of a meerkat. Normally you will hear their sharp warning whistle before you see them.
Sanglier or wild boar are common in forests but are hard to spot. They can be best described as hairy brown pigs with tusks. If you are lucky enough to see one then keep your distance because they can be dangerous.
Wolves were hunted to extinction in France in the 1930s, but in recent years they have crossed into France from Italy (where conservation efforts have increased their numbers). The walker is highly unlikely to see one, but they are present in the Briançonnais.
Other mammals such as squirrels, foxes, badgers and mice are fairly common below the tree line.
Fish are found in most rivers, streams and lakes. Species of trout are common, and many high alpine lakes also contain Arctic Char.
Lagopède (or Ptarmigan) is a grouse-like bird. Its plumage is white in the winter and largely brown in the summer.
Gypaète Barbu (or Bearded Vulture) is a vulture with a wingspan of up to 3m. Its German name is ‘Lammergeier’, which means ‘lamb-hawk’, stemming from the belief that the bird attacked lambs. It occurs naturally at relatively low densities, so a sighting is something to be savoured. The good news is that a sighting in the Hautes Alpes is much more likely than further north. Golden Eagles can also be spotted in the region.
The view north from the amazing Lac de Cristol (Walk 32)
Pastous
The Briançonnais is still a very rural area, and many of the ‘old ways’ are still alive. Sheep are still walked up into the high mountains to graze at the end of spring each year, and brought back down again to winter in the low valleys. Even today, the shepherd will often live in a tiny cabin or mountain hut throughout the grazing season.
A flock of sheep in front of the Arêtes de la Bruyère (Walks 37 and 38)
Traditionally, the flock would have had a dog (a ‘Pastou’ or ‘Patou’) to accompany it and to protect against bears, wolves and lynx. Wolves are once more a threat, so flocks of sheep in the Briançonnais still tend to have a Pastou attached to them. The Pastou is a very large, white, long haired dog which is related to an old Pyrenean breed. It will usually have been raised with the flock from a young age, so it forms a close bond with the sheep.
As they are working dogs whose job is to protect, they will often growl or bark if you approach the flock. Although uncommon, it is not unheard of for visitors to the French Alps to be bitten by a Pastou which felt that its sheep were being threatened. Accordingly, the best advice is to give them a wide berth. If you see a flock then it is wise to assume that there may be a Pastou with them. And be aware that from a distance the colour and texture of their coats makes them hard to spot amongst the sheep.
Notwithstanding the above advice, the author has had the following positive, although initially extremely unsettling, experience with a Pastou on the Col du Vallon in the Écrins National Park:
Early one beautiful morning in September, I sat alone on the top of the Col du Vallon enjoying the quality of light and solitude that can often only be found at that time of the morning. Lost in the splendour of the vista before me, the first thing I felt was light pressure on my back as something sat down behind me, so close that we were touching. Wondering who would have the audacity to invade my personal space in such a manner, I turned round and was shocked to come face to face with a goliath of a dog – a huge, shaggy, white Pastou. We were both seated, back to back, and yet its head towered above mine (or at least so it seemed!). My terror dissipated quickly, however, as he was gazing at me with the warm adoring eyes of a Labrador puppy. He gave me a lick on the cheek and when he lay down beside me; my instinctive reaction was to put my arm around him. We enjoyed ten minutes of the silent companionship that can only be experienced between a man/woman and his/her dog. He then got up and simply wandered away back to his flock, without looking back.
Although heart warming, such experiences are likely to be few and far between, and under no circumstances should you use this anecdote as rationale for trying to pet a Pastou. To ensure that your day in the mountains does not take an unpleasant turn, view the Pastous from afar.
Plants and flowers
Clockwise from left: Alpenrose, gentian, edelweiss and violas
The Haute Alpes is a veritable cornucopia of wild flowers. At the right time of year you will be astounded by the myriad of colours and sheer variety of the flora on display. May and June are normally the best months for flowers, which wait patiently throughout the winter for the snow to clear and then rapidly spring to life. That said, there are still plenty of flowers in other months.
A few of the best known alpine flowers in the Briançonnais include the following:
Alpenrose is a bright pink member of the Rhododendron family and is seemingly everywhere at altitude in late June and July. They are particularly abundant on Walks 32 (Tour du Grand Area) and 20 (Lac Palluel and Lac Faravel).
Viola is a small flower which prefers grassy pastures. There are a variety of colours including yellow, white and blue (or a combination of those colours). Look out for them on Walk 3 near the Col des Thures.
Chardon Bleu is a rare blue flower which flowers between July and September. They are common at the top of the Fournel Valley near the start of Walk 24 (la Grande Cabane).
Edelweiss is probably the most famous alpine plant of all. This striking white flower is rare and only grows at high altitude (1800–3300m). It can be found (if you are lucky) on Walks 27 (Croix de la Salcette) and 40 (Plateau d’Emparis).
Getting there
By air
The Briançonnais is well served by the following international airports and airlines:
Turin (1hr 30min drive to Briançon) – Alitalia, British Airways, Easyjet, Ryanair
Lyon (2hr 45min to Briançon) – Aer Lingus, British Airways, Easyjet
Marseilles (2hr 50min to Briançon) – Aer Lingus, Air France, British Airways. Easyjet, Ryanair
Milan Malpensa (3hr to Briançon) – Aer Lingus, Alitalia, British Airways, Easyjet
Nice (3hr 30min to 5hr to Briançon depending upon the route) – Aer Lingus, Air France, British Airways, Easyjet, Ryanair.
This is not a complete list of airlines serving these airports but it will provide an idea of what is available.
Resalp runs bus services to Briançon from Lyon airport via Grenoble (see Appendix C). You can also get the train to Briançon from Marseille airport and Nice but you will need to change at least once (see www.voyages-sncf.com). However, as you will need a car to access many of the walks, you might prefer to rent a car at the airport you fly into. All the major rental companies operate at the airports and cheap rates can be obtained via a booking website such as or www.holidayautos.co.uk. If you are flying into Italy (Turin or Milan) and propose to rent a car, check that your hire car company allows you to cross into France.
By train
Briançon is easily accessed from Paris by train. At the time of writing there is a daily overnight train in both directions between Briançon and Gare Austerlitz in Paris, but funding cuts may put this service under threat. It is an excellent service which offers reasonably priced sleeper carriages and gets into Briançon early in the morning. There are also a number of trains which run during the day to and from Gare de Lyon in Paris. Any of these train services could be linked with the Eurostar from London or a flight to Paris. Information on train times and tickets can be found at www.voyages-sncf.com.
By car
You can bring your car to France from Ireland or the UK by one of the many ferry services (www.stenaline.co.uk; www.irishferries.com; www.brittany-ferries.co.uk; www.dfdsseaways.co.uk). Alternatively, you can travel with your car on the train from the UK through the channel tunnel (www.eurotunnel.com). The drive to the Briançonnais should take 9–10hr from arrival in France. If travelling from Calais or Dunkirk, take the road to Reims to avoid the busy ring road around Paris.
Getting around
Depending upon where you base yourself, you should be able to access some of the walks in this book by foot. In addition, many of the walks can be reached using local bus services. For example, regular buses travel to Montgenèvre and up and down the Guisane Valley between Briançon and la Grave. There are also daily Lignes Express Régionales buses travelling along the Durance Valley to and from Briançon (see Appendix C).
However, there are some walks in this book which will require you to have your own transport and, if you do, then you will get more out of the region. You could rent a car in Briançon but it is usually cheaper and easier to rent one on arrival at the airport (see ‘Getting there’).
Weather
Alpine climates tend to be drier and more predictable than those in mountain areas with a maritime climate (such as the UK or the US west coast). Nevertheless, as with any high mountain region, conditions can still change rapidly. It is prudent therefore to be prepared for rain and it is not beyond the realms of possibility to experience snow on high mountain passes (‘cols’) and summits even in the middle of summer. All mountains can be dangerous places and need to be treated with respect and caution, even if the weather forecast is favourable.
The Vallouise Valley in winter
The weather in the Briançonnais can be extremely localised, often differing from valley to valley. It is possible therefore to climb to the top of a col in blazing sunshine only to find cloud or even rain over the other side. The Durance Valley has a slightly different climate, for example, than the Guisane.
Forecasts in France are relatively easy to access. National and regional forecasts can be found on television or radio. Local forecasts can be found at tourist information offices and most mountain huts will display up-to-date weather forecasts. Indeed, often the most reliable forecast can be that provided by a hut gardien (manager), as it will be infused with a wealth of local knowledge.
In addition, there are numerous internet sites, both French and international, which produce forecasts of varying reliability. One of the best sites is Meteo France, the French meteorological office, which provides regularly updated national, regional and local forecasts at www.meteofrance.com. Meteo France also has an excellent smart phone app which provides detailed local forecasts.
When to go
In general the Briançonnais can be walked from May to October but, as with any part of the Alps, walking at altitude is restricted for part of the year by snow. Normally high cols will be snow covered until mid to late June, with the main walking season running from the end of June to the end of September. This does not mean that you cannot walk at other times and, indeed, it can be preferable to do so.
Spring (May and June): there is still plenty of excellent walking below the snowline to please the most hardened walker. Take care when approaching the snowline in spring, as avalanches are not uncommon and can kill. Away from the snowline you should have few concerns, and this can be the most beautiful time of year for walking: new growth will be on the trees, the weather is often sunny and warm and the peaks are frequently at their most photogenic, still frosted with snow. Visibility is generally excellent in the absence of summer haze. Of course there is still rain at this time of year, but this usually lessens as spring develops.
Furthermore, in May and early June the Briançonnais’ hundreds of varieties of wild flowers are at their glorious best, the pastures resplendent with colour. This is a sight which most walkers, focused on the summer season, never get to see, and it cannot be recommended highly enough. Additionally, the Briançonnais is extremely quiet during this period, so if you are seeking solitude then this is a great time to visit.
Wild flowers in spring in the Fournel Valley
Summer (July and August): normally most of the high cols are passable on foot. This is the peak season, reaching its crescendo in the four weeks commencing around 14th July, when most of the French take their annual vacations. During these four weeks visitor numbers are at the summer maximum, yet when compared to the more popular Northern Alps it does not really seem busy at all.
Temperatures will be at their peak, reaching more than 30°C. Mornings are often clear and sunny, heating up as the sun rises into deep blue skies. If there is to be cloud, this will likely form throughout the afternoon, and may bring thunderstorms. Sensible advice is to start early in the morning and get your main climb done while the temperature is cooler. Summer can be hazier than spring or autumn.
Autumn (September and October): visitor numbers thin out rapidly from the last week in August. French and Italian holiday-makers are back at work and the mountains are almost deserted (particularly mid-week). From the middle of September the mountain huts and gîtes start to close up for the season.
Often September offers the best walking, with settled weather and more comfortable temperatures than in summer. The skies are clear and visibility is normally excellent, particularly if your visit coincides with the Mistral, a strong, cold northwest wind. Evenings will be cooler.
Walkers generally ignore October, which is a shame as the weather can be beautiful, and the proliferation of larch trees and other deciduous plants means that the autumn colours are an astounding mix of yellows, reds and browns. Days will be shorter so start walking early in October – if something were to go wrong you would have much less daylight to seek help than in the summer, which should also be borne in mind when deciding what to bring with you.
The Guisane Valley in autumn
Where to base yourself
The main town in the Briançonnais is Briançon, which is also the most central place to stay. Details of tourist information can be found in Appendix C. Briançon is well served by accommodation and restaurants and the historical old town is fascinating, but after a night or two most walkers will prefer to locate themselves somewhere more rural. The fantastic towns, villages and hamlets in the region are too numerous to list exhaustively but the following all make good bases.
Vallouise (www.tourisme-lavallouise.com tel +33 (0)4 92 23 36 12) is set in the stunning Vallouise Valley about 20min from Briançon and is perhaps the nicest place to stay. In the centre, there is a lovely 15th century church, a supermarket, a hotel and a couple of shops and restaurants. There are also hotels, gîtes and campsites nearby. In the peak summer season bookings should be made in advance. There is great mountain biking and via ferrata here too, and equipment can be rented in the valley.
The magnificent setting of the village of Vallouise
Névache (www.nevache-tourisme.fr tel +33 (0)4 92 20 02 20). Located towards the top of the Clarée Valley, 20min drive from Briançon, its bucolic setting makes for a relaxing place to stay. There are some hotels, gites and restaurants and a beautiful campsite beside the river.
Montgenèvre (www.montgenevre.com tel +33 (0)4 92 21 52 52), a popular ski resort about 15min from Briançon, has many hotels and restaurants.
Le Monetier-les-Bains (www.serrechevalier.com/www.serre-chevalier.com tel +33 (0)4 92 24 98 98) is an attractive little town between Briançon and la Grave. It is home to a fantastic natural spring complex and plenty of restaurants and places to stay.
La Grave (www.lagrave-lameije.com tel +33 (0)4 76 79 90 05) is a pretty town set in front of the famous mountain la Meije (3983m). The many hotels, restaurants and bars are perfectly situated for those who wish to soak up the view of this permanently snowy peak. For something different to do, there is a cable car from the town up to the Glacier de la Girose.
Accommodation
Accommodation of all types is plentiful throughout the Briançonnais. During the French summer holidays it’s advisable to book ahead. Outside of these times you should have no problems finding a pleasant place to stay, but be aware that in early spring and from mid-September onwards some accommodation will be closed.
Hotels
The range of available hotel accommodation is wide but quality can vary. The majority of hotels will be in the one to three star categories. There are a few four star hotels, but the five star is a very rare species indeed. Most hotels will offer breakfast and evening meals and the half board rates can be very good. These days many hotels are part of the Logis chain and details of their hotels can be found at www.logishotels.com. In this digital age, independent hotels in the region normally have their own websites too.
Self-catering chalets and apartments
For those wishing to stay in the same place for a week or more, self catering accommodation can be excellent value, particularly for families or groups. It is not too difficult to find a high quality chalet or apartment with a garden or terrace and a very fine view. Most immobiliers (estate agents) rent self-catering accommodation. However, English speakers may find it easier to avail of the good rates that can be found with Alp Base (see Appendix C).
Gîtes d’étape
A gîte is a difficult thing to define. Traditionally it would have been akin to a youth hostel, offering beds in dormitories and evening meals. Nowadays, however, as travellers are more demanding, gîtes are more upmarket – private rooms are normally available and blankets have largely been replaced by duvets. The accommodation in some gîtes is in fact better than many hotels but it pays to check before you book. Many gîtes now have their own websites.
Chambres d’hôte
Generally these approximate to bed and breakfast accommodation in the UK. Quality can vary widely – some can be better than hotels but others are little more luxurious than a mountain hut.
Refuges
These are mountain huts which offer dormitory accommodation and meals. Many also have private rooms. Duvets and sheets are becoming the norm and hopefully the itchy blanket is a thing of the past. To stay in a refuge, you will need to bring a sleeping sheet, a thin bag made of silk or cotton. These can be purchased cheaply at most outdoor shops in the UK or France or, sometimes, they can be rented for a small charge.
Refuges are often located deep within the mountains and accessible only to the walker. This is mountain travel at its finest, with no need to carry heavy gear or food. Wine and beer is usually available and if you are lucky the gardien may let you try his secret stash of homemade Génépy, a potent liqueur made from a plant only found in the high mountains. Most importantly refuges are good value – a bed for the night, dinner and breakfast should cost less than €50.
Campsites
Most towns and villages will have campsites and the services which they offer vary greatly. They will all have toilet and shower facilities but some have swimming pools and restaurants too. Wild camping or bivouacking may be tolerated provided that you only stay for a night. If you do camp out ensure that you carry out all rubbish and bury any toilet waste well away from watercourses.
Briançon viewed from the well preserved city walls (Walk 30)
Safety
On a sunny day the Alps can appear to be a benign paradise, but it only takes a change in the weather or a twisted ankle to turn a pleasant day out into something potentially life threatening. This should not put you off, but it is wise to treat the mountains with the respect they deserve and to be aware of your own experience levels and physical capabilities. The following is a non-exhaustive list of recommendations.
Read walk descriptions carefully and make plans based on the abilities of the weakest member of your party.
Get an up-to-date weather forecast (see ‘Weather’ above) and carefully reconsider your plans in light of the forecast. Never set out on long or exposed routes if the weather is uncertain.
Get as fit as possible before you begin your vacation; the fitter you are the more you will enjoy walking.
Start early to avoid having to ascend during the hottest part of the day and to give you more time in case something goes wrong.
Buy a map. The maps in this book are indicative only and are no substitute for a sheet map.
Before setting out, tell someone where you are going and what time you will return.
Carry surplus food and clothing in case you have an accident or get held up by the weather.
Never be afraid to turn back if you find the going too tough or if the weather deteriorates. It is better to fail on one occasion in order to succeed a hundred times in the future.
Do not stray from the path (unless the route does not have one) to avoid getting lost. This will also avoid erosion of the landscape.
Avoid exposed high ground in a thunderstorm. If you get caught out in one then drop your walking poles and stay away from trees, overhanging rocks, metal structures and caves. The generally accepted advice is to squat on your pack and keep as low as possible.
In the event of an accident, move the injured person into a safe place and administer any necessary first aid. Keep the victim warm. Establish your exact coordinates and, if possible, use your mobile to call for help. The emergency number is 112. If you have no signal then send someone for help.
Mountain biking is becoming more and more popular so keep your wits about you to avoid a collision.
Hunting is popular in the Briançonnais. The season starts at the beginning of September and lasts throughout the autumn and early winter. It is sensible to wear something brightly coloured when walking in the hunting season.
The pretty chapel in Névache
Food and drink
French food is generally excellent. Most hotels, gîtes and refuges will offer breakfast and evening meals. Breakfast will normally be coffee, bread and jam, perhaps with some cheeses or cold meats. Evening meals are usually substantial three course affairs as walkers tend to be hungry people. Soup and pâté are common starters and the main course will normally be some sort of meat with vegetables, rice, pasta or salad. This will often be followed by dessert or cheese.
Many of the restaurants will serve local specialities such as Tourtons, otherwise improbably known as Coussins du petit Jésus (Cushions of baby Jesus). These are tasty little pastry squares stuffed with fillings such as potato, cheese or meat. Fondues and tartiflette (a rich and tasty concoction of potatoes, cream, ham and Reblochon cheese) are also popular mountain fares.
Bread is nothing short of a way of life in France and is consistently excellent – most towns and villages will have a boulangerie (bakery). Supermarkets in France stock a wide range of fantastic cheeses and cold meats so picnic food is readily available.
Many towns and villages have popular weekly markets at which there will be stalls selling bread, cheeses, meats and other locally made products. These markets are well supported by locals and visitors alike and tourist information offices can provide information on them. Perhaps one of the most enjoyable is the Thursday morning market in Vallouise, where the stalls are set up in the old village centre.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Language: French is the first language but many locals will have at least some basic English.
Money: France uses the euro (€). ATMs can be found in most towns but rarely in smaller villages. Credit cards are accepted widely although most refuges accept cash only.
Visas: citizens of the European Union do not need a visa. At the time of writing citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the US do not need a visa for stays of up to three months. Brexit may change things for the UK traveller.
Mobile phones: mobiles should work in towns and villages. In the mountains, however, it can be hit and miss. 3G services are widely available so access to the internet from smart phones is often possible.
International dialling codes: the country code for France is +33 and the first 0 in the French area code is omitted if calling from outside of France.
Internet: many hotels and gîtes now have wifi but refuges do not.
Insurance: mountain rescue services may not be free and therefore it is wise to ensure that you have adequate insurance which covers hiking. Visitors from the UK should also make sure that they have the free European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) but remember that in France this will only cover part of your medical treatment so insurance is still recommended. Also, the EHIC will not cover mountain rescues. With Brexit looming it is possible that the EHIC card may soon be a thing of the past for UK residents and in such circumstances private insurance will become even more important.
Emergencies: the emergency telephone number is 112.
Via ferrata
A few of the routes in the book can be varied to link them with via ferrata routes. Via ferrata is an Italian phrase which literally means ‘iron road’. It is commonly associated with the First World War, when steel ladders were bolted into rock faces in the Italian Dolomites to assist with the movement of Italian troops. In recent years, modern via ferratas have been constructed in the French Alps. Crête de la Rortie (Walk 23) could be combined with an excellent via ferrata and L’Aiguillette du Lauzet (Walk 38) also has a via ferrata.
A via ferrata enables people with no rock climbing experience to ascend a rock face with the assistance of ladders, steps and cables (onto which the user should be clipped at all times). You should always be properly equipped with a twin lanyard and carabiner set, helmet, gloves and harness. Get instruction from an experienced professional unless you know what you are doing. Tackling a via ferrata is an exhilarating experience which can be the highlight of many people’s trip to the mountains, but it should not be treated lightly and should not be attempted by anyone who does not have a good head for heights. A fall during a via ferrata climb could lead to serious injury or even death.
Full information on how to do a via ferrata is beyond the scope of this book. They are mentioned here in passing to make the reader aware of possible alternatives on particular walks but the book does not provide detailed route descriptions for the specific via ferrata routes or information on how to do a via ferrata safely. A good reference point is Richard Miller’s excellent book Via Ferratas of the French Alps (Cicerone Press, 2014).
What to take
Having the wrong equipment or clothing can make a day out in the mountains uncomfortable, unpleasant or even dangerous. You should be adequately equipped for the terrain and for the worst weather conditions which you could possibly face. Being cold and wet at high altitude is no fun and can put you at risk.
Weight is also worth taking into account – if you take too little then you might not be properly prepared, but if you take too much then that 1000m ascent will be more difficult.
Boots should be good quality, properly fitting and worn in. Good ankle support and thick cleated soles (such as Vibram) are recommended.
Good quality walking socks are as important as boots and they should fit properly and be quick drying.
A good quality waterproof jacket is vital even if the forecast looks dry. Breathable fabrics are the norm. It is also wise to carry waterproof trousers although you may rarely need them.
Layering is important. On your upper body wear a base layer (which will wick moisture outwards from your body) with a fleece on top as a mid-layer. For added warmth you can put on your waterproof. Depending on the season, you may wish to bring additional layers. On your legs wear shorts or trousers, depending on the season. Always carry a warm hat and gloves just in case. Bear in mind that in October if you start early in the morning the temperature could be -5°C but by noon it can reach 18–19°C.
Hiking with a baby towards Col des Cibière (Walk 34)
Your rucksack should have well padded shoulder straps and waist band. Much of the weight of the pack should sit on your hips rather than your shoulders. A waterproof liner to go into your pack can be a good investment.
Poles will transfer some of the weight from your legs onto your arms keeping your legs a little fresher. On descents they can save your knees and can reduce the likelihood of falling or twisting an ankle.
Carry a basic first aid kit at all times. A small torch with spare batteries and a whistle are sensible additions – many rucksacks have whistles incorporated into the sternum strap. A space blanket or emergency bag is very light and could save someone’s life.
Always carry a map and compass and know how to use them. A GPS can be a useful addition but it is no substitute for a map and compass – after all, batteries can run out and electronics can fail.
The sun at altitude can be brutal so wear sunscreen and lip salve. Sunglasses and a sun hat are also recommended
Carry at least 1.5 litres of water per person
Maps
IGN is the French public geographical service, producing a range of maps covering French territory in various scales and formats. Each walk description in this book contains information on the appropriate 1:25,000 scale map(s).
Using this guide
The walks in this book are only a taste of the hundreds of possibilities available in this amazing region. Six geographical areas are covered and you could easily spend a week or more in each area. Routes could be shortened or lengthened to meet your needs. A route summary table is provided in Appendix A as a useful aid for choosing a walk.
Walk grading: walks have been graded easy, medium, hard or very hard. Walk grading is subjective: one person’s hill is another person’s mountain. The grades in this book take account of distance, ascent, gradient, terrain and navigational challenge. If there is difficult terrain or significant exposure on a walk then this can impact its categorisation. In general, a walk graded easy could be undertaken by most people. A walk graded very hard is only suitable for fit and experienced walkers.
Timings: these indicate the time for a reasonably fit walker to complete the walk. They do not include any resting time.
Distances: distance is measured in kilometres, to match maps and signposts in France. One mile equates to 1.6km.
Total ascent and descent: the total ascent is the aggregate of all the altitude gain on the uphill sections of the walk. Total descent is the aggregate of the height losses on the downhill sections. Ascent and descent are measured in metres. As a rule of thumb, a fit walker climbs 300–400m in an hour.
Maps: each walk contains a sketch map: these are indicative only and are no substitute for the detail on the full 1:25,000 scale sheet maps. The correct map for each walk is highlighted in the walk description. You are less likely to get lost or take a wrong turning if you use the recommended maps (see ‘Maps’).
Signposting: yellow signposts giving time or distance to a specific destination are common and tend to be quite reliable. Painted red and white stripes on rocks and trees are sometimes used as waymarks. If you see a cross painted on a rock or a tree then this generally means that you are going in the wrong direction. Plastic ‘VTT’ signs nailed to trees are for mountain biking routes – take care as mountain bikes move quickly and any collision between walkers and a mountain bike is likely to have serious consequences. The VTT (Vélo Tout Terrain) route may or may not be along the same route as you need to follow so don’t rely these signs as your own waymarks.
GPS coordinates: each walk description includes coordinates for the starting point. Occasionally, within the route description, coordinates are also provided for junctions which are tricky to locate. These coordinates are given in the UTM-WGS84 format used by the IGN maps. For Suunto watches set your position format to ‘UTM’.
Signposts at Col de l’Oule (Walk 34)
