Читать книгу Jakarta: 25 Excursions in and around the Indonesian Capital - Andrew Whitmarsh - Страница 6

Welcome to Jakarta!

Raised in the Wild Wild West of America with cowboys as my heroes and bank robbers as my enemies, I spent my childhood climbing mountains, building forts and fashioning rafts to float the North Platte River. Channeling this adventurous spirit, I became a leader in the Outdoor Club at university before joining the Peace Corps and spending two years in a small, mountainous village in the Republic of Georgia. Hiking for hours through the scrubby green hillsides, chatting up leathery old shepherds and reveling in solitude, clean air and the tranquility of body and mind were everyday occurrences.

Then I moved to Jakarta.

My first thoughts as I moved into the massive apartment block of Taman Rasuna in Kuningan, which has a population four times my hometown, was that I had died and gone to hell. The buildings were too big, the people too many, the automobiles too dirty and the city too hot. But soon my instincts took over and I began to adapt.

My first action was to buy a map and a bicycle. With these tools I covered massive swaths of the city, venturing into slums, joining street protests, squeezing through markets and following the canals until exhausted. I began to not only tolerate the city, but to fall in love with it. As the years went by and I continued to have incredible adventures, I knew that I was experiencing a Jakarta that most people are not exposed to. I heard a lot of complaints that there was nothing to do in Jakarta except go to the mall, and I knew this wasn’t true.

And so it was that, four years ago, I began to scribble down notes on where I was going, what I was doing and who I was meeting so that I could help lift the lid on the steaming pot of mystery that is Jakarta, and in so doing let many others get a taste of the experiences they may have been missing out on.

I hope that as you read this guidebook you feel inspired to get out and explore, to open mysterious doors, to eat curious foods, to talk to intriguing people and to do things you never thought you’d do while living here. Now go and have yourself an adventure.

GENERAL INTRODUCTION

This book contains 25 guided tours, most of them geared towards walking. Twenty of the tours explore areas in north, central and south Jakarta while five others explore attractions an hour’s driving distance or more from the city. Each tour contains information on how to reach the start point, the length of the walk, who the walk is suitable for, and facts on the points of interest along the way, as well as cultural notes and recommendations on where to eat and drink.

Different tours have different functions: some delve into the city’s history, others focus on family activities; there are walks which link parks together for a green kick, while others amble through village neighborhoods and markets. There’s not always an end destination; instead, the walk itself is the purpose.

Many of Jakarta’s residents, both local and expatriate, have yet to ride a public bus, rarely get beyond the malls on weekends and have never walked anywhere in the city for pleasure. This is not necessarily for lack of want, but rather due to a dearth of helpful information compounded by plenty of misinformation and a fear of getting lost in the city’s maze of chaos. What you now have in your hands, though, is a key to seeing more of the city than shops, and a guide to parts of the labyrinth of streets which make up Jakarta.

The purpose of the walking tours is to introduce you to weird, wild and wonderful places—places in Jakarta you may not have known existed. This will require you to call upon your inner adventurer, cast aside preconceived notions about the city and its people, and ignore the paranoid warnings from your company, your embassy and your friends. So strap on your adventure shoes and pack your adventure bag; it’s time to take some incredible photos, experience things that will spice up your emails home and live a life more fulfilling. Very little in Jakarta is what it seems to be. It may take some time to discover this, but like the delicious es campur (mixed ice), there is always another layer to be discovered if you dig a little deeper.

First and foremost, though, it’s time to shelve the fear of the unknown. Jakarta is no more dangerous than any other capital city in the world. To make matters even better, the local people are helpful, courteous and approachable. Rather than run from them, greet them. Rather than shy from what may be around the corner, take a peek.

This is not to sugarcoat the city however. The air quality can be poor, the sidewalks rough or non-existent, the environment hot and humid, the traffic frustrating and the lack of amenities inconvenient. Going on walks in Jakarta requires you to leave home with the resolution not to be critical, to have a stalwart mind and a sense of humor. You will need patience, resilience and water. Your comfort zone will be stretched, your sense of direction twisted and your determination challenged. But along the way you are likely to meet friendly people, discover a unique shop, stumble upon a cute park, step inside a tasty café or come across an artistic mural. You may never get to where you intended, but instead end up exactly where you want to be.

AN OVERVIEW OF THE BOOK

This book is divided into five main sections. The first section gives some tips for successful expeditions into the tangled lanes of the city. Being streetwise, knowing what time of day to travel to certain areas, knowing which mode of transport is the quickest for particular routes and knowing how to give and respond to greetings are the street-savvy elements which will make everyone’s experience of their visit much more enjoyable. This first section also covers health and safety basics, cultural do’s and don’ts and an introduction to the city’s transport options.

The second section delves into seaside north Jakarta, the city’s black pearl, so-named because, although to some it is the gem of the city, it is by no means the sort of thing you would give as a wedding present. There are five walking tours exploring quarters of north Jakarta. Three have a historical and cultural flavor, strolling through the city’s old town, harbor and Chinatown. The Muara Angke tour takes in the disparity between rich and poor, passing through neighborhoods in which mansions and slums share the same zip code, before arriving at a mangrove forest and fishing village. And the fifth, the Ancol tour, is a blast of seaside fun with roller coasters, a water park and an art market.

The third section moves to central Jakarta, with eight tours exploring both the main streets and the seldom-visited back streets. The Monas tour is steeped in history. The Menteng tour guides walkers through a sequence of parks to enjoy the leafy side of life. A day at the city’s central sports grounds is the focus of the Senayan tour. The Markets tour brings together a trio of unique places to shop, while the Cikini tour looks at the arts. Explore the quaint lanes of the Bendungan Hilir neighborhood or make your own batik at the Textile Museum during the Tanah Abang tour. The Downtown tour provides a contrast between the upscale malls and the small neighborhoods located just blocks away.

The fourth section journeys to south Jakarta, a huge area of the city which the government defines as encompassing both Kuningan, in the central business district, and the University of Indonesia, which can be over an hour’s drive away. Seven tours tread through this part of town.

Some of the city’s larger, family-friendly attractions are located in the south: Ragunan Zoo, the cultural and educational park Taman Mini Indonesia Indah, and the fruit orchards of Mekarsari. The Pondok Indah and Kemang tours amble through green residential neighborhoods. The Kuningan tour visits some eye-catching cemeteries, and the Blok M tour satisfies both shoppers and park fiends, while passing an animal market as well.

The fifth section explores some of the attractions within five hours driving distance of the city. The farther you get from the smog and noise, the greener and more relaxing the environment becomes. These drives may mean renting a car and leaving before the call to prayer has finished rattling the bedroom windows, but it’s worth the effort to breathe the sea and country air.

Sun worshippers and sailors will enjoy the Thousand Islands tour. The Jatiluhur tour spends a day at a lake. The Bogor tour gets on the train and explores the botanical gardens and a gong factory, while the Puncak tour goes up to the Gede and Pang-rango volcanoes. The Pelabuhan Ratu tour gets all the way to the south coast of Java for some white-water rafting and surfing.

Welcome to Jakarta and its surrounding areas, where even the incredible is nothing out of the ordinary.

Safety Tips

On the city-wide scale, Jakarta has endured floods, earthquakes and terrorist attacks. That being said, the city is not a dangerous place to live. There are, however, things to keep in mind while exploring the streets.

CYCLISTS BEWARE The best tip for cyclists is to stay off the main roads. Instead, map out a route to your destination using the quieter back streets. Not only will you be less exposed to pollution and potential accidents, but the ride will be more pleasurable and your map-reading skills will improve. Always wear a helmet and reflective clothing. Fit out your bicycle with lights and a loud horn, and buy a proper anti-pollution mask if you are regularly riding in traffic. Go with the flow of vehicles, don’t use your middle finger, ring your bell as needed, stick to the left lane and don’t assert yourself too much.

MOTORBIKES Motorbike riders and passengers are vulnerable. When riding a motor-bike wear full protective gear or, at a bare minimum, shoes and a properly strapped on helmet. Keep alert. Most road rules are not applied. Poorly maintained roads are one of the greatest threats. Riding at night or in the rain is hazardous: flooded roads can hide giant potholes, uneven road surfaces and broken lane dividers. Watch out for kids and pushcart vendors in the street, motorcycles entering a road without looking and vehicles changing lanes without indicating or looking. If you’re riding in the kampungs, keep an eye out for marquees and wedding parties in the middle of the road.

PEDESTRIAN CROSSINGS The safety of pedestrian crossing is deceiving: cars won’t automatically yield. Do not stride confidently across the street in a display of pedestrian rights. Motorcycles are especially loath to brake for anything and the potential for collision is high. Always look both ways and cross with caution. Be careful about getting into an altercation with a car or motorcycle driver after a traffic incident as a mob is likely to form and you may suddenly find yourself facing 20 people, not just one.

SIDEWALKS Watch where you walk or ride your bicycle, or you may find yourself neck deep in an uncovered sewer. Even in the smartest business and residential areas, it’s common to find gaping, yet unmarked, holes in the sidewalks and roads. Sidewalks are often not much safer than roads as motorcycles drive quickly and freely on them. Always look both ways before crossing a road, even a supposedly one-way street, as vehicles, especially motorcycles, often travel in both directions.

THEFT Despite Jakarta’s poverty, crimes against foreigners are few. The most likely crime is pickpocketing, with mobile phones and wallets choice targets. Use common sense: always mind your belongings and be aware of your surroundings, especially on public transport, at train and bus terminals, in queues and at busy markets. When leaving the bar at the witching hour, topped up on tequila and chanting the Canadian national anthem, keep your wits about you: take a reliable taxi and note the driver’s ID and the license plate number. Don’t ask the driver to go by the ATM for you to load up on cash, and don’t pass out in the back seat.

WOMEN Women should generally find that they feel quite safe in Jakarta, and that while there may be the occasional stare, they won’t feel like their life is in any danger. Ultimately, though, try exploring the city with a friend, always be aware of your surroundings, and if your intuition sounds a warning, listen to it. An ear-piercing scream can often be the best defense. The word for help is tolong.

Motorists don’t stop at pedestrian crossings.

Health Information

GENERAL HEALTH TIPS Dengue is known as a classless disease as it is mosquito-borne and therefore strikes people at all levels of society. It may be useful to carry a few sachets of anti-mosquito lotion with you, as avoiding being bitten is the only way to prevent infection. Make sure your vacci-nations are up to date and you are inoculated against typhoid, hepatitis A and B and tetanus-diphtheria. Take sunscreen with you as a general rule, but especially when you leave Jakarta for the Bogor, Jatiluhur, Puncak and Pelabuhan Ratu tours. Everybody gets the occasional upset tummy. Buy some fresh ginger roots and brew your own ginger tea to help.

FOOD SAFETY Indonesians may have guts of steal, but you don’t. Certainly explore the roadside treats served at warungs (small informal restaurants), but be cautious as well. Ask for your food bungkus (to go), as often the gut-busting microbes are on the dishes washed in dirty water, not in the food itself. Think twice about having ice in your glass: it is usually transported by bicycle or cart and can be well manhandled before landing as chunks in your juice. Pick a warung which is popular with locals, drink straight from the bottle or can, and wipe your cutlery first with a napkin.

HYDRATION Keep hydrated in the tropics. You may not realize it, but your body will become as dehydrated as a shrimp cracker. Don’t wait until you are thirsty. Start drinking water the moment you hit the streets. Dehydration will lead to headaches, irritability, and lassitude and could end with heatstroke. Cut down on plastic garbage by bringing your own water bottle pre-filled with ice-cubed water. If you feel your mood plummeting during a walking tour, drink and eat something immediately. You’ll find that it wasn’t your surroundings bringing you down, but neglect of your bodily needs.

Open-air fish markets offer a variety of seafood.

Cyclists rule the roads on car-free Sundays.

Always have bottled water on hand.

Cultural Do’s and Don’ts

Due to the polite and accommodating spirit of the local people, a person may commit repeated cultural and etiquette-related crimes and never know it. That being said, there’s no reason you should blunder blindly through the city, making grown men blush, insulting elders and giving foreigners a bad name. The following are a few tips on how to be a polite citizen in your host country.

ANSWER THE QUESTION As you walk through Jakarta you will commonly hear Mau ke mana? Literally this asks where you are going, but actually it is more a courteous greeting than a question. A lengthy reply is not necessary and the question isn’t intended to be nosy. You can either tell them succinctly where you really are going, Mau ke pasar ikan, for example, if you are going to the fish market, or with the more general Jalan jalan (Just walking around). You should respond verbally though, do not just ignore this polite social greeting.

ANNOUNCE YOUR PRESENCE In the narrower neighborhoods, kitchens often spill into the streets. This means you may end up walking through someone’s kitchen as you explore the area. Call out Permisi (Excuse me) to individuals and groups as often as necessary. With this expression you are politely asking for permission to proceed through the neighborhood. People will be very grateful for this sign of respect and will happily answer with Silahkan or Mari, meaning you are welcome to proceed. This simple word can unlock both doors and smiles, especially if your presence has surprised someone or you have intruded on a social event.

ACCEPT YOUR TITLE Indonesians politely greet each other with titles. Bu, for example, signifies deference for an older woman; Pak is the respectful title for an older man. Your title is Mister. You’ll frequently hear ‘Hello mister,’ and it is not supposed to be annoying. Say hello back and don’t bother trying to correct them if you are a woman.

BE THE BULE You will also often be hailed as bule. This is a commentary on your being a foreigner. Though you make get tired of hearing it said so many times, it is not an attack. In the kampung, the word will draw the attention of the locals and the delight and interest of the children. A happy smile or nod of acknowledgment is the proper response; a middle finger, scowl or smart-ass retort is not. Often the people calling out bule don’t realize you understand the word.

GREET GRACIOUSLY Handshaking is acceptable when being introduced to an Indonesian, though don’t be surprised if the hand is limp. Indonesians don’t go for the crushing handshake and it’s not cool for you to give a macho display. Give a light handclasp. Touching your heart immediately after the handshake is very polite. If you mix in affluent circles, get used to cheek kissing. The standard first greeting is Apa kabar? (How are you doing?), and the response is Kabar baik (I’m fine).

USE YOUR RIGHT HAND Always use your right hand when passing and receiving items from people. In this culture, the left hand spends a lot of time near the bum and is considered unclean.

GESTURE WITH GRACE Try to avoid pointing at someone or something, especially with your left hand or index finger alone extended. If you need to indicate direction or a specific person, gesture with your entire right hand. If you need to summon someone, beckon them with your palm down and wave your fingers. Pointing at or touching items with your feet is rude, and do not point your soles toward someone when sitting down.

Be aware that standing with your arms crossed or your hands on your hips suggests arrogance or anger. Patting anyone on the head, including children, is rude. Men should not touch women, or be overly familiar in social situations, other than for the initial handshake.

SHUCK YOUR SHOES Generally speaking, people should take off their shoes before entering someone’s residence. Look for a line of shoes at the door and at least motion towards removing your shoes. Your host may tell you it’s unnecessary.

FIND YOUR RELIGION Indonesians are required to have a religion. As a foreigner, you will be required to declare your religion to complete certain paperwork, opening a bank account, for example. It is considered poor form to dispute the existence of any deity. Pick a religion for formalities sake.

STATE YOUR MARITAL STATUS It is common for Indonesians to inquire into your marital status and number of children. They may show surprise or disappointment if you are above your mid-twenties and do not have children. Ask in return how many children they have, and they will be proud to list their children’s ages and class levels at school.

COMMUNICATE CLEARLY Remember that a smiling Indonesian is not necessarily a happy Indonesian. A smile can indicate embarrassment or confusion. If a smile is not the response you are looking for, consider that you may be making people uncomfortable or that you may be making a spectacle of yourself. It’s not their fault if they can’t understand English and it may, in fact, be your accent or mispronunciation when speaking Indonesian.

ASK THE RIGHT QUESTION Indonesians like to be helpful. This may mean they give an answer to a question without really knowing the answer. Rather than admit, for example, that the person does not know where the nearest post office is, your interlocutor may give you their best guess. A tip when asking for directions is to get three people to give you the same answer before considering it accurate. Avoid leading questions like, ‘Does it open at 9am?’, to which the response is likely to be agreement. Ask open questions instead: ‘What time does it open?’ Questions about distances may be answered jauh (far) or dekat (near). However, often jauh isn’t actually that far at all!

DRESS FOR SUCCESS A woman showing skin will attract comments. Keep your shoulders, cleavage, midriff and thighs covered anytime you are not in a fancy mall, restaurant or bar. Dress conservatively when walking through a kampung to avoid offending less cosmopolitan residents. Unless exercising, men’s shorts should reach the knees.

BE A POLITE PHOTOGRAPHER Indonesia and its people are incredibly photogenic. However, do ask permission, Boleh foto? (May I take a photo?), before shooting portraits. Most of the time you will not only be allowed but will be highly encouraged. Your subject may mutter that everyone takes their photo and then literally takes the photo away and never shares it. Photographers might consider printing some copies of the images and returning another day to share them.

HAVE SMALL CHANGE Always carry small denomination notes when out exploring, and do not assume that people can give change for a bill larger than Rp20,000. You may want a pocket of loose change to give to beggars and buskers.

SHOW PATIENCE Indonesians do many things which other cultures may find impolite or offensive. These include constant sniffing, unabashed belching, hawking and spitting on the street, blowing snot rockets, nose picking, squeezing pimples in public, letting doors slam in the next person’s face, gathering in places which block the path of others, walking very slowly, commenting on how old, fat, scrawny or tired one looks, smoking in public places, pushing to enter and exit elevators, queue jumping, shoving at airport luggage carousels, letting their children run amok in restaurants and littering. These things are best ignored. Try not to judge one culture against another. Ultimately, these behavioral annoyances are minor and not intended to offend.

Getting around Jakarta

A car may be the easiest form of transport to arrive at the start of your urban walks, but it may not be the quickest or most adventurous. Add to the excitement of the day and the spirit of adventure by trying one of the numerous means of public transportation in Jakarta. It may be daunting the first time, but from the end of your first successful trip, your confidence will grow.

The following is a survey of some of the various means of transportation available in the city.

A safe, air-conditioned Transjakarta bus.

TRANSJAKARTA BUSWAY These air-conditioned buses operate along fixed corridors across Jakarta, and are the city’s first attempt at a mass rapid transport system. The buses are clean, comfortable and easy to use. Buses run from 5am to 10pm, and the current fare for a single trip is Rp3,500. Although the government officially calls the system Transjakarta, the colloquial name, and the name used in this book, is Busway. Fares are fixed and paid at the start of the trip prior to passing through a ticket-operated turnstile.

KOPAJA AND METRO MINI These buses are fun, fast and cheap, but prepare for a white-knuckle ride. The conductors hang from open doors waving fistfuls of money, while drivers careen across lanes pushing through the narrowest gaps in traffic. These buses are best taken during daylight in non-commute hours. Signal you want to alight by standing up and tapping a coin against the roof. The conductor will then holler to the driver. Fares are fixed, currently at Rp2,000 and will be collected during the trip by the conductor.

Fun, fast, cheap but daredevil Kopaja.

PPD, STEADY SAFE, MAYASARI BHAKTI AND OTHER LARGE BUSES These behemoths carry the largest numbers of passengers. There are both air-conditioned buses (Rp6,500) and non-air-conditioned (Rp3,000). They are useful for long hauls and cross-city trips, and may use the toll roads which can add to the price.

A familiar powder blue Angkot minivan.

ANGKOT/MIKROLET These are small powder blue minivans with side entrances. They generally hold 10–14 people but many more will squeeze in or hang out the doors during peak times. These minivans are very useful if you can figure out whether they are heading in your direction; routes are marked in the front windscreen. Fares are fixed at Rp3,000 per trip and are paid upon leaving.

TAXI It’s easy to hail a taxi from the street or to order one by phone. There is a vast array of taxis in the city, with Silver Bird at the top end of the scale. Bluebird and Gamya are popular and reliable. Cheaper taxis display a tariff lama (old fare) sticker in their windscreens. Of the cheaper taxis, Express is safe and dependable. Other personal favorites are Taxiku and the dilapidated Kosti Jaya.

A row of popular and reliable Bluebird taxis.

The more modern blue version of the bajaj.

OJEK Taking a motorcycle taxi is the quickest way to get anywhere in the city. There is not a spot in the city which does not have a guy on a motorcycle for hire. Ojek drivers will congregate together in packs of 2–20 waiting for passengers. They will provide helmets, but of varying quality. Unlike taxis, ojek drivers will always take the most direct route to your destination. Negotiate the fare before mounting the bike. Try haggling for a half or two-thirds of the starting price, but don’t give yourself a hernia trying to save a few thousand rupiah. If you speak Indonesian and act confidently, you may be given the real price at the start. Fares could be between Rp3,000 and Rp30,000, but it all depends on distance, weather, traffic conditions and bargaining skills.

BEMO These blue three-wheeled vehicles are confined mainly to the neighborhoods of Bendungan Hilir, Manggarai, Salemba, King ITC Kota and Klender. They are very convenient for short trips. Try taking one from Pasar Benhil in central Jakarta, also the start of the Bendungan Hilir walking tour. Upon reaching your destination, tell the driver to stop by calling out kiri (left). Fares are Rp2,500 and are paid at the end of the trip. Pass the money directly to the driver through the window.

Negotiate your fare in a three-wheeled bajaj.

BAJAJ These are wacky, noisy, smoky, bright orange three-wheelers, with the driver in the front and space for two passengers in the back. They are useful and fun for quick trips in the immediate neighborhood. Fare rates are negotiable and are paid at the end. You may want to agree a price at the outset. Prices may range from Rp10,000 to Rp25,000 depending on distance.

NEW BAJAJ The more modern bajaj is blue, has four wheels, and is cleaner and quieter than the older model. Fares are a little more expensive.

Pedal-powered becak carry two passengers.

BECAK These are pedal-powered rickshaws with space for two passengers in a bucket seat at the front and the driver mounted on a bicycle seat behind. They are rare now in Jakarta having been banned by the city administration in most areas. Becaks can, however, still be found in Bekasi and Glodok, and are common outside of the capital. Fares are negotiable and dependent on distance. Pay on arrival.

Enjoy a ride on a horse-drawn dokar.

DOKAR For a taste of the countryside, take a horse and cart and trot around the block old-school style. Dokar aren’t very useful for getting from point A to point B as they generally travel from point A to point A, but it’s all about enjoying the ride rather than getting somewhere. Dokar are becoming more difficult to find, but still operate around the Monas, Senayan, Pondok Indah, Kemang and Kebayoran Lama. Fares are negotiable according to distance and may be between Rp2,500 and Rp5,000 per person.

OJEK SEPEDA Generally found in north Jakarta near the Tanjung Priok port, Sunda Kelapa, Kota and Glodok, these are bicycles fitted with an extra passenger seat. Often toothless and with poor eyesight, the ojek sepeda drivers continue a tradition that has lamentably seen better days. They are fun for short, environmentally friendly trips, especially through tight traffic. Fare rates are negotiable and paid at the end of the trip, but don’t bargain too hard with these guys: they face enough challenges as it is.

CANAL FERRY Most populated canal banks have simple ferries or rafts to carry people and goods from one side to the other. Powered by pole or by pulling on an overhead wire fixed to both shores, these craft are one of the few non-motorized forms of transport in the city in addition to the becak, ojek sepeda, dokar and lori. Fares are fixed at around Rp1,000 to Rp2,000 per person.

A canal ferry for carrying people and goods.

Trains are convenient for some destinations.

TRAIN The train from Gambir station in central Jakarta is very convenient for getting to the University of Indonesia, Bogor, Bandung and beyond. Visit www.kereta-api.co.id to get up-to-date schedules. Local station locations and schedules can be more challenging to figure out. Economy class trains can be slow and packed, but bring you up close and personal with a cross-section of Indonesian society. Look out for locals riding on train roofs during peak hours, but don’t try this yourself.

LORI No doubt the strangest and least likely way to travel is by lori—a homemade push-cart rolling along the rail tracks at Kebon Kosong in central Jakarta. Lori can hold four passengers and are also used to transport goods. The standard price is Rp3,000 for 1.5km, but watch out for trains.

When riding on buses and economy trains you will often be approached by beggars and buskers. You might consider taking a pocket of loose coins to give away.

Tipping on public transport is not necessary, but rounding up the fare to the nearest Rp5,000 will be greatly appreciated in taxis.

Using Public Transport

REASONS WHY IT CAN’T BE DONE There are many reasonable objections to using public transportation—each of which is dutifully acknowledged and then dismissed here.

Objection #1: I’ll get lost

It is possible that you will board a bus marked Blok M in south Jakarta and somehow alight near the Monas in central Jakarta. You can see this as either a) a disaster and a waste of time, or b) an excellent opportunity to explore the Monas. Getting lost on public transportation is a great way to find adventure in a new part of town. Ask the conductor or any of your fellow passengers if you have a question about where you are or where you are going. If all else fails, get out and take a taxi.

Objection #2: I’ll get mugged/pickpocketed/harrassed/groped

Jakarta is a reasonably safe city, with the greatest risks being tummy trouble, broken infrastructure and traffic. If you feel especially vulnerable, get some tattoos and wear an eye patch. Otherwise, use common sense, protect your belongings and be aware of your surroundings. You are unlikely to experience trouble on public transport during daylight hours.

Objection #3: It will take too long

On the contrary, ojeks are the speediest form of transport in the city. Other forms of transport may not be quick, but taking public transportation might increase the uniqueness of the day, make for a better after-dinner story and add insight to your overseas experience. Try using public transportation to the destination and taking a taxi home.

Objection #4: It’s hot and uncomfortable

It’s the tropics, everyone sweats. Wear quick-dry clothing and travel during non-peak hours, with weekend mornings being by far the best. Always carry bottled water with you. Indonesian women often carry fans, so why not tuck one in your bag as well?

Objection #5: I can never figure out which is the right bus

Just ask. Indonesians are incredibly friendly and very approachable. Or pick up one of a number of fairly handy transportation guides from local Indonesian bookstores.

Objection #6: It won’t take me directly to where I’m going

Try combining various forms of transportation. For example, take an ojek to the nearest Busway stop, ride the bus to the zoo and take a taxi home.

Objection #7: It’s dirty, polluted and stinks

So is Venice! But don’t let this stop you! Take a bandana to cover your mouth and nose.

Objection #8: I’ll be overcharged

If you don’t know where you are going, an ojek might overcharge you Rp10,000 or Rp20,000. On a bus, the conductor might ask for an extra Rp1,000. Who cares?

Objection #9: My company forbids me

You are not a rare imported species of fish or a vase. Company policies can be over-protective and paranoid; after all, they are looking out for you. Ignore your company once in a while.

Objection #10: I’m a girl

So what? See Objection #2. Travel with a buddy at night.

Now that all the objections have been overcome, everyone is free to choose any form of public transportation and go! The challenge now is to try and use every form of public transportation at least once during your adventure days in Jakarta.

Car Rentals and Taxis

Eazyrent Car Rentals

www.eazyrent.co.id

Trac Astra Rent Car

www.trac.astra.co.id

Bluebird Taxi Group

www.bluebirdgroup.com

Express Taxi Group

www.expressgroup.co.id

Planning Your Explorations

Regardless of whether you have been in Jakarta for one day or one year, you may have noticed that just when you think you’ve got it figured out, there is always a new twist. The intention of this section is to clue you in to some of the inner workings of the city and to give the inside scoop on things you may have yet to come across and may have not even imagined possible. It’s very important to read this section thoroughly before setting off on a walking tour, because it could save a lot of time, effort and possibly anguish.

A NOTE ON CITY PARKS Some people will tell you that the only parks Jakarta has are car parks. Unfortunately, that is a lot closer to the truth than we would like to admit. There are quite a few green spaces in the city if you go in search of them. Just consider a few things first .

The term ‘park’ is used loosely here. Strips, squares, triangles or any other shape of public land that has grass and is dotted with at least a few trees and shrubs is considered a park. Asking that parks have playground equipment, exercise stations and jogging paths is holding Jakarta to a standard it’s not ready for.

Don’t be surprised if when you arrive at a park you are the only one there. It is rare to find children playing in parks, families strolling around eating ice cream and groups of teens shooting the breeze and sneaking a cigarette or a kiss. Parks, as you might think of them, are so much of an anomaly in Jakarta that the residents don’t seem to know exactly what to do with them. Most often, the only other visitors you may find here are snack vendors, a few stray cats and a couple of teenagers hanging out. On the weekends and at dusk, though, some parks can get quite busy, especially as young guys often come out to play pick-up soccer games there.

A modern sculpture in Langsat Park.

Often there is little to do in these parks except stroll around in circles, sit and read or ponder life, but in a city such as ours, you should count your blessings when you can walk on an unbroken sidewalk without the risk of being run over by a motorcycle or falling into an open hole in the ground. While many parks are formed merely by the junction of a number of streets, and so are not totally free from motorized vehicle noise, there are still quite a few gems that were purposely made and are relatively peaceful and quiet, depending on the time of day.

Also, don’t forget that golf courses are basically large green spaces with lots of trees and ponds, so when desperate times call for desperate measures, we count these as parks too. Even if the thought of playing golf abhors you, it’s still a great way to get some light exercise, a suntan and escape the rat race.

A NOTE ON TRADITIONAL MARKETS

Nowhere in the country does even the most amateur of photographers have more opportunities to take incredible photos than in a local outdoor market (pasar). With a kaleido-scope of colors, an often tantalizing array of exotic wares on display and a host of toothless, smiling faces, there’s never a lack of subject material.

Beyond being great places to capture memories, they are also great places to capture your next meal. With fresh fruits and vegetables going for bargain prices, it’s a wonderful way to buy healthy ingredients and save a dime. While food markets abound, many markets sell a wide variety of often unexpected other goods. Looking for a wicker lamp shade? You’ve got it. Ever wanted a pack of 1,000 incense sticks? It’s yours. Can’t live without a police costume? Go ahead and buy one! While not every market in Jakarta has been included in this book (there are more than 100), those found here should keep you busy exploring for a while.

When shopping at a pasar, it’s a given that you should bargain and a given that you will still pay more for something than a local. That’s okay. The important thing is whether you feel you paid a good price and you got your money’s worth. Always keep it friendly and wear a smile, as shouting or getting snappy over a few thousand rupiah is never acceptable. One thing to watch for is the pause. If you ask how much something is and the seller pauses for a few seconds before producing a number, you know that it’s too high. Make sure to come with small money, because if you have just bargained for 30 minutes to get the price down to Rp10,000 from Rp12,000 and then you ask the seller to break a Rp100,000, you can be sure he will shoot you a soul-destroying stink eye.

Selling chilis at a traditional market.

BEWARE OF PICKPOCKETS Markets are a favorite hangout for pickpockets, so be aware of your surroundings, don’t flash your money around, hold your bags close and keep them zipped, and dress down. Taking pictures is generally acceptable (though you should always ask first), and try to bring a cloth bag for your goodies so you don’t end up with 20 disposable plastic bags at the end of the day.

A NOTE ON MUSEUMS Generally speaking, Jakarta’s museums are underfunded—and it shows. Be sure to temper your expectations before entering and instead see them as an excellent opportunity to escape the heat and mayhem of the streets while learning a thing or two.

The entrance fees are not listed in this book but they generally range from around Rp500 to Rp5,000. This may not help funding much for the museums, but it does ensure that even the poorest of Jakarta’s citizens have a chance to get in.

Most displays are not translated and those that are will say something vague, like ‘old plate’, which is not very useful. Either bring an Indonesian friend to translate, join an English-language tour, bring your electronic dictionary or just enjoy a stroll about. Learning Indonesian so you can read the signs yourself may be the best option of all.

For the most complete guide to the city’s museums, check out the Indonesian Heritage Society’s guidebook, Museum Encounters: Jakarta. Unfortunately, most museums don’t have a website and those that do are in Indonesian, so make good use of the ‘translate’ button in Google.

The National Museum is great for learning about the country’s numerous cultures and crafts.

Graves at Ereveld Menteng Pulo War Cemetery.

Most museums are closed on Mondays and public holidays. They may also close for afternoon prayers.

A NOTE ON CEMETERIES If you are looking for a quiet place to walk around, away from the street noise and people, it’s best to head to where they’re dead. Cemeteries are good places to stretch your legs on a bicycle, and they can offer some decent single track. It’s also interesting to see how locals bury their loved ones based on their religion.

Throughout the book you’ll find various cemeteries noted, a good example being the Kalibata War Cemetery in Kalibata, south Jakarta. It’s a large chunk of land complete with wide, clean, solid paths as well as a lake, monument and lots of bushes, flowers and stately trees. To top it off, there are deer in one corner of the cemetery. Most of the graves are noteworthy because of the helmets resting on them.

On maps, the cemeteries are listed as TPU, which stands for tempat pemakaman umum (public cemetery). If you are strolling around and trying to find a cemetery, you can ask people for the kuburan (grave) or makam (tomb).

A NOTE ON INDONESIAN PLACE NAMES

Except in headings, most sights listed in the book are first given in Indonesian, such as Pulau Onrust, and then followed up by the English, Onrust Island. The spelling of some words varies throughout the city, e.g. ojek, ojeg, etc. Generally, the spelling options given here are the most common.

A NOTE ON FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND

When you are looking at street signs, bear in mind that they stand perpendicular to the street they are naming, rather than parallel to the street as you would find in most Western countries. This is crucial knowledge if you are wondering why your map doesn’t match the street signs.

The walking tours and corresponding maps in this book reference street names. On the ground, however, it may be challenging to actually spot a street sign. Look for street names given on local buildings or banners. Better yet, ask any of the lingering security guards (satpam) or ojek drivers nearby. The initials Jl. stand for Jalan (Street).

When seeking directions, ask for the end destination rather than the streets leading there. People may not know the intermediary street names, but they may well be able to point you in the right direction if you tell them the final destination. If there is confusion about where you are going, you might be mispronouncing the name; try showing a written form of the destination. Note, however, that in poorer neighborhoods, or among street workers and satpam, people may not be able to read well, or at all. People may also not be able to read maps. The longer someone hesitates before pointing somewhere, the more likely they don’t know, so watch out for that look of uncertainty.

Directions to places in the book are, at times, not given with a high degree of detail. This is done on purpose. If you are anywhere near where you are supposed to be, just ask people around you and they’ll point the way. It’s better than having your nose buried in a map and getting frustrated because the book’s description doesn’t match what you are seeing. Another reason is that things change very rapidly in this city and a landmark/building/market that was there yesterday may not be there today.

A NOTE ON PEOPLE The walking tours in this book are nice, no doubt. You will enjoy going to new places, discovering novel things, and you’ll come home loaded with tales of adventure. But the locations themselves are only half the story. It’s the people who make up the rest.

It’s imperative that you stop and talk. Take the Senayan walk, for example. Ultimately, it is a walk around a giant sports complex. This doesn’t sound so interesting, but if you are there on a Sunday morning, and you stop and take the time to talk to some of the athletes, the families, the drink sellers, the skaters—whoever it may be—your day will be radically different than if you had not.

If you feel shy, just sit down and hang out and undoubtedly someone will approach you and start chatting. Don’t scowl at them, but smile and see what they’ve got to say. It doesn’t matter if your Indonesian is not great, or even non-existent. You can either take this opportunity to practice the few words you know, you can seek out the English speaker in the group, or you can discover the beauty of hand gestures. Remember that Indonesians are not only incredibly kind, they are also incredibly patient. If you say three words in Indonesian, they will exclaim that you are fluent. Try saying three words in French to a Parisian some day and see what they have to say!

If you plan on snapping photos of people selling things, a good way to get them to open up and be responsive is to start by buying one of their goods. Imagine if you were a guy who sold drinks out of bamboo tubes and a tourist took a hundred photos with you and then walked off without buying the Rp3,000 drink! It hardly seems fair. Sellers will greatly appreciate the courtesy.

There may be times when you’ll need to pay an unofficial fee to gain access to a site, enter a building, go beyond a certain point, take pictures or compensate for taking up quite a bit of someone’s time. Usually this is a minimal amount of money, between Rp1,000 and Rp10,000, and the person asking for money will refer to it as uang rokok (cigarette money) or uang kopi (coffee money). This is likely chump change to you so be nice, pay the fee and don’t get red in the face and stomp around. If you are trying to get something done, be proactive by offering to pay this uang rokok or uang kopi and alerting the person you are ready to go the extra mile to get it done. Often they won’t state an amount, suggesting that ‘it’s up to you’. Pay what you think it’s worth and watch for their reaction to see if you have given enough.

A NOTE ON ACTIVITY INFORMATION

Change keeps things dynamic and constantly interesting. For that, we love it. When it comes to phone numbers, e-mail addresses and websites, though, it’s not great at all. From the time research began on this book until the time it was sent off to the publisher, more than half of the contact information collected was no longer valid.

CONTACT INFORMATION If an activity or business has a website, all extra information about opening hours, addresses or other relevant facts and figures will not be listed in this book since it should be available on the website. If you try the website and it’s no longer valid, it may just require some additional internet sleuthing to find the new website, a valid phone number or e-mail address. This isn’t the optimal situation, but it’s the reality. Many businesses, in fact, are ditching websites in favor of a Facebook page.

A large number of the websites listed will only be in Indonesian. Make sure you are using Google’s latest browser, which comes with a ‘translate’ button that will automatically translate the website into manageable English.

GETTING AROUND For getting to all the places listed in the book, it’s generally assumed that you will come by taxi, take your own car (and driver) or take the Busway. General driving directions are often given, but it is expected that you’ll make best use of a map. When it comes to parking, it’s nearly impossible to guarantee that the parking situation of today will look anything like that of tomorrow. Most taxis will know general locations, but if there is some confusion, show them the printed name of where you are going as they may not understand what you are saying.

PRICES In most cases, prices have not been listed. Most entrance tickets, parking and admission fees, etc. are Rp50,000 or less, with many only Rp5,000–Rp10,000. If something is quite expensive, it has been noted.

PHONE NUMBERS Phone numbers are generally of two types: mobile phones and land-lines. For all landlines in Jakarta, the numbers begin with 021. This is only needed if you are calling from a mobile phone or outside Jakarta. If you are calling from within Jakarta and from a landline, you don’t need 021.

OPERATING HOURS Most government-run museums, cultural centers, etc. are open from around 10am to 4pm, Tuesday to Sunday. This may vary slightly from place to place. Note that often things will close during Friday prayers.

WEATHER OR NOT In a perfect world, every person in Jakarta would go around wearing nothing but a pair of shorts, a tank top and flipflops all day, every day, year round. With only two seasons, dry and wet, but a temperature that remains fairly constant, it’s not hard to choose what to wear each day. The only question is, umbrella or no umbrella? While the humidity may rise and fall depending on the month, the temperature only varies between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (27–32 degrees Celsius). Nights don’t cool down much, getting down to around 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius).

The rainy season is fairly hard to predict these days, but falls roughly between November/December and March/April. It’s during these months that Jakarta is hit by its legendary floods, which can ruin the nicest of shoes, so keep those rubber boots at hand. The rain, while it can be inconvenient, is essential for scrubbing the city clean and cooling the air down. When the dry season finally comes, it can feel brutally hot if you are out under the direct sun and the locals, especially the middle to upper class, will avoid being out if it could darken their skin. A general lack of breeze doesn’t help much, and tends to drive people indoors to the comforting coolness of air-conditioning.

THE RIGHT TIMING By far the best time of day to be out is in the early morning. If you can manage it, you should get up around the time the mosques start their morning call, the first of five daily prayers, at around 4.30 am. This is not only the coolest time of day, but also the quietest and cleanest. Late evening is nice as well once the traffic has abated and the clubs and restaurants start filling up. Many entertainment venues don’t wrap things up until the wee hours of the morning, so you never have to search for a reason to stay up late.

Almost all activities in this book are best done early in the morning—from 5am to 8am. The later in the day you go, the more likely places will fill up with garbage, noise and pollution.

MONEY MATTERS Credit cards are useful at most shops in malls and modern stores, but don’t bother using anything electronic on the street as it’s a cash-and-carry deal only. Carrying around a wad of Rp100,000 is useful at Plaza Indonesia, but having a pocket full of Rp2,000, Rp,5,000 and Rp10,000 notes is crucial on a walking tour, as many vendors, warungs, taxis, ojeks and bicycle coffee guys don’t carry much change and certainly don’t want to break a big bill.

Prepare to bargain as needed for certain things, but always keep it lighthearted and try not to assume you are always being ripped off.

RELIGION RUNDOWN The government officially recognizes six religions: Islam, Catholicism, Protestantism, Buddhism, Hinduism and Confucianism, and woe to the poor fool who declares publicly that he or she is an Atheist. Houses of worship for all religions are found throughout the city and generally there are no issues between different religions worshiping in close contact. Of course, not all is hunky-dory: for example, there are ongoing clashes in Bekasi between a Christian congregation and the Muslims who don’t want them worshipping in the area. Islam is the number one religion in Jakarta, with a mosque located on nearly every street corner, though many are no larger than a shed. People looking for an English language church service can check the local papers for listings.

The times you will most notice Islam at work in Jakarta are during Ramadhan, when Muslims fast throughout the day; Lebaran, the holiday after Ramadhan when everyone travels to the villages to be with family; Idul Adha, the Day of Sacrifice, when animals are slaughtered all over the city to celebrate Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son; and every Friday around noon, when all the faithful head to the mosque for prayers.

HAPPENING HOLIDAYS Red days, as national holidays are called, are numerous in Indonesia and help keep everyone happy. If a holiday falls on a Monday or Friday, the city usually becomes a fairly civil place as people head for Puncak, Bogor, Bandung, Pelabuhan Ratu, Anyer, Carita, the Thousand Islands or Sukabumi to have some family fun. These three-day weekends often mean traffic is light, streets are fairly quiet and, if you want to explore the city, now is the chance to do it in peace. Note: People who stay in town often flock to Ancol, Taman Mini Indonesia Indah, Monas and Ragunan Zoo on these days, so it’s best to avoid the destinations locals love.

Here is a list of some of the big holiday days:

• International New Year

• Chinese New Year

• The Prophet Muhammad’s Birthday

• Hindu New Year

• Good Friday

• Ascension Day

• Buddha’s Birthday

• Ascension of the Prophet

• August 17th Independence Day

• Lebaran/Idul Fitri after Ramadhan

• Idul Adha Sacrifice Day

• Islamic New Year

• Christmas

THE WHO AND HOW MANY Jakarta is made up of every ethnicity within Indonesia, as well as people of nearly every country in the world. The largest groups are the Javanese from Central and East Java and the Sundanese from West Java. While the Chinese do not make up a majority of the population, their influence on both the past and present is incalculable. Two terms you may often come across are betawi and pribumi. A betawi person is one whose ancestors were originally from Jakarta and their mascot is the ondel-ondel, large, brightly colored, doll-like statues or costumes with masks and giant spiky hair. A pribumi is an original inhabitant of Indonesia.

More than 9.5 million people live in Jakarta, though counting the local population is like trying to count a million meandering minnows in a pond. During the day, the city swells with a mass of commuters who inflate Jakarta to its bursting point, then flood out in the evening, causing legendary traffic jams. Jabodetabek includes more than 26 million people.

The number of expatriates (expats) in Jakarta, however, is a tough number to report, partly because many may not want to be counted due to their less than legal status in the country. The total could be said to be roughly 30,000, give or take 10,000.

YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT While it seems impossible to get an authentic New York cheesecake in Jakarta, you can get nearly everything else. Of course, you should spend a good amount of time tucking into the local dishes. There are some great, upscale Indonesian eateries that serve some true delights, but often the best food will be dished up from warungs or kaki limas (rolling food carts). The standard rule (up to a point) is that the cheaper it is, the tastier.

You may not think that eating food from a roadside stall would be that pleasurable, but many locals will tell you that the true secret ingredient to a good plate of nasi goreng is the exhaust off the street. This is why a similar dish found abroad doesn’t taste nearly as good. Do note that while eating street food is encouraged, it shouldn’t be done with reckless abandon. Try to eat somewhere busy, somewhere relatively fly free and somewhere with its own running water. If something smells or tastes funky, trust your instinct and don’t eat it.

Try to glimpse how and where the dishes are bring washed. If the person who is cutting up the meat is also the one handling the money as well as sweeping up, perhaps it’s time to push on. Ultimately, try to find a place with a good, long-running reputation and think about either ordering it to go or bringing your own bowl and cutlery.

SAY IT LIKE YOU MEAN IT Although English is becoming more widely used, and a surprising number of Indonesians can use it functionally, visitors to and residents of Jakarta are highly encouraged to learn the local language, Bahasa Indonesia. It’s by far one of the easiest languages to learn, particularly since most Westerners can read it without having to learn a new alphabet. The grammar is simple, the words are generally short, and it’s free of the challenging tonal inflections heard in languages like Chinese and Japanese.

For the true Jakarta explorer, the most important word to learn is Ayo! (Let’s go!). See the back of the book for a list of helpful starter phrases which should be employed immediately.

One of thousands of roadside stalls in Jakarta.

Jakarta Food Guide

While out and about, look out for and try the following common dishes and snacks.

Jakarta Snapshot

While most people claim to live in Jakarta, in reality they live in Jabodetabek, which sounds more like a mythical beast than a place to live. This is a combination of names for all the municipalities that have slowly been swallowed up by the Jakarta beast. The name comes from Ja (Jakarta), Bo (Bogor), De (Depok), Ta (Tangerang) and Bek (Bekasi).

From north to south, the city of Jakarta stretches more than 25km and covers more than 740 sq km. The Jabodetabek area covers 2,720 sq km. Of the 100 largest cities in the world, Jakarta comes in number 24 according to the United Nations and it also has one of the highest growth rates, regardless of government attempts to stem the incoming tide of workers from the countryside. People continue to have fairly large families as well, as every child is considered to be a gift from God according to Islam, adding to the population increase.

Jakarta sits on an alluvial plain, which means it was formed by the build-up of sediment that washed down in rivers from the surrounding highland areas. Regular, natural flooding helped to increase the plain’s size, although the flooding nowadays seems more intent on washing Jakarta out to sea. The entire city is quite flat, with the highest areas in southern Jakarta still only about 50m above sea level. There are 13 rivers that wind their way through the city, although not all were naturally formed. The Ciliwung is by far the most famous of the bunch.

Jakarta rests on top of an aquifer known as the Jakarta Groundwater Basin. Unfortunately, the output is higher than the input, which means that the city is not only sinking, with north Jakarta going quicker than the rest, but that the water supply is being tapped out. In addition, there is serious saltwater intrusion into the aquifer from the Java Sea, and local industries continue to pollute all water sources at an unchecked rate. Luckily, there seems to be no shortage of Teh Botol, so no one will die of thirst—and as cheap as it is, theoretically one could bathe in it as well.

HISTORICALLY SPEAKING The history of Jakarta before the 16th century is patchy. Traders from India most likely brought Hinduism and then Buddhism to the area, and Chinese merchants headed through the Malacca Strait started visiting islands here on a regular basis in the 15th century. But it wasn’t until the Portuguese rocked up in 1513, the first European ships to do so, that historical records become detailed.

At that time, Jakarta was known as Sunda Kelapa and was the port town for the Hindu Kingdom of Pajajaran. As the Hindus wanted to temper the Islamic Sultanates of the region, they signed a deal with the Portuguese that allowed them a presence in the area. Before the Portuguese had a chance to establish a foothold though, Fatahillah of the Banten Sultanate destroyed Sunda Kelapa in 1527 and then founded Jayakarta—meaning ‘Victorious City’.

The Dutch came to shore in 1596, unknowingly changing the course of Indonesia’s history, in order to establish the VOC (Dutch Trading Company) and capitalize on the spice trade. At that time, there were only around 3,000 houses in the town, a far cry from residential counts of today. The British weren’t too far behind, though, as they began settling in around 1615. Until 1619, Jayakarta was ruled by the Sultan of Banten, but it was the Dutch Governor-General Jan Pieterszoon Coen who walloped the Sultan’s troops, destroyed the city and built one to his liking, with a castle called Batavia at the center. The name Batavia was chosen in remembrance of the Batavians, a tribe of people regarded as the ancestors of the Dutch people. The name stuck for the next 300 years.

In 1650, Chinese temples went up in Glodok and Ancol, and in 1710 the City Hall at Fatahillah Square went into service. Starting in 1730, the unfortunate inhabitants of Batavia were being ravaged by malaria so badly that there was a mass exodus southward for those looking for somewhere more livable. In 1750, the Dutch murdered 5,000 Chinese residents in a killing spree that followed a period of growing suspicion and unrest. This event, helped by horrendous sanitation issues, led to Batavia’s eventual downward spiral. In 1796, the British whooped up on the Dutch, and in 1799 the VOC was considered to be all but washed up.

By 1811, much of Kota had been dismantled or destroyed and new construction was replacing the damage. At the same time, Sir Stamford Raffles, the Lieutenant-Governor of Java from 1811to 1815, was pushing for an end to slavery across the country. The Dutch came back to power in 1816 and turned the Monas area into the center of business as well as the new hotspot for the rich and famous. Dutch rule lasted until the Japanese arrived in 1942 with swords drawn and a kamikaze spirit, thereby becoming the new overlords and ruling with an iron fist. The city’s name at this time, Jayakarta, was shortened to the current Jakarta.

An early Dutch map of Batavia, the name given to Jakarta by the Dutch in the 17th century.

The City Hall of Batavia, 1710–1913.

The Dutch, tenacious as always and loathe to give up both the city and country, made a power grab again after the Japanese surrendered the war in 1945. It was then, on August 17th, 1945 that Indonesia declared de-facto independence. Unfortunately, without the American assistance that almost came through, the Indonesian people had to continue to fight for the next four years until the Dutch, outnumbered and outfought, gave in and agreed to grant Indonesia its independence in 1949. The population of Jakarta at the time was less than 1 million and Kebayoran Baru was the newest Dutch-built neighborhood.

Founding President Sukarno had a grand vision of modernity for his newly freed city, and he set about to make it so by backing projects such as the Istiqlal Mosque, Monas and the Gelora Bung Karno Sports Stadium, all connected by Jl. Thamrin running through the middle of the city. With Sukarno’s fall from power in 1965, having been ousted in a coup led by Suharto, the job of running the city was left up to Lieutenant-General Ali Sadikin, who worked feverishly to develop and modernize the city, sometimes for the good, sometimes for the bad.

With the economic collapse of 1997, a year permanently etched in the minds of many Jakarta residents, all development came to a screeching halt when funding evaporated. In 1998, all hell broke loose in the city as tanks rolled through the streets to prevent looting and rioting, sparked by inflation, fuel price hikes and utter dissatisfaction with the 32-year rule of dictator Suharto. Armed forces killed four students at Trisakti University in west Jakarta during a political rally, and in the pandemonium that ensued over the following months, more than 6,000 buildings were torched, burgled or destroyed, and approximately 1,200 people died. Mobs targeted Chinese residents in Glodok, and the evidence of these times remains visible to this day.

The latest ills to affect the city were the bombings of the JW Marriot Hotel in 2003, the Australian Embassy in 2004, the Ritz Carlton and again the same JW Marriot Hotel in 2009 and substantial flooding in 2007.

But time heals all wounds and Jakarta, while falling one step back for every two steps forward, continues to forge ahead and to establish itself as a major player on the international market. The Indonesian economy was little affected by the economic crisis in 2008, and growth, development, modernization and waistlines have continued to grow at an exponential and seemingly unabated rate. Skyscrapers and high-rise apartment towers mark Jakarta’s skyline like blades of metallic grass, and suburban sprawl devours surrounding farmland and rice fields like an insatiable, wild-eyed beast. The rich line their Lamborghinis and Porsches in front of Pacific Place Mall to ensure they get noticed, and to have any less than two mobile phones is something to be ashamed of.

The incredible forward momentum of the city is simultaneously being tempered though by the city’s planners who seem to be on permanent holiday. With the local government continuously demonstrating that it is powerless to create change, the city’s future seems, at times, mildly frightening. All this being said, it’s the lawlessness that runs rampant in Jakarta that is half the city’s charm, and perhaps the chaos and disorder that so well define Jakarta should be something to be accepted as part of its very soul rather than seen as a disorder which must be cured.

Jakarta, for all the airs it may put on from time to time, is and always will be nothing less than a great big village.

Staying Active in Jakarta

SPORTS CENTER

One of the toughest things about living in Jakarta is trying to get some outdoor exercise, mainly because finding out when and where to go can be challenging. The central sports complex is located in Senayan and various sports are mentioned in the Senayan tour (see p. 136). Other sports are covered in this section of the guidebook, and while not exhaustive, it should provide a good start for keeping fit.

AUSSIE RULES RUGBY

Also known as footy, football or AFL, this is a game in which two teams of 18 players each try to score points by kicking a ball between vertical posts at each end of an oval-shaped field. Players move the ball by either kicking it, running with it or hitting it with a closed fist or open hand. The ball is never thrown. A ‘mark’ is taken by catching a kicked ball on the full, entitling the mark taker to a free kick. There are no offsides, with possession turned over if an attacker is tackled or held with the ball. This is a contact sport played without padding or helmets, but there are rules to restrict dangerous physical contact.

Cyclists wearing Bike2Work T-shirts.

In Jakarta, the local team is the Bintangs, and although it is mainly an Aussie crowd that plays, the team welcomes people of all nationalities and abilities. The club plays against teams from around Southeast Asia, with adversaries including Singapore, Malaysia and Vietnam. The Bintangs also support a growing junior league for Indonesian teenagers.

CHECK OUT www.bintangs.com

NOTE The location and times of the Bintangs’ practices can vary, so it’s best to contact them via their website to get updated information. Otherwise, they can often be found at the artificial turf field (see p. 138) next to the outdoor basketball courts in the Senayan Stadium complex on Thursday nights from 6pm to 8pm.

BICYCLING

BIKE2WORK First started in 2004 by a few individuals from one of Jakarta’s mountain biking communities, Bike2Work has now grown to roughly 10,000 members. Some want to help create fresher air in the city by avoiding the use of motorized vehicles, others are looking for a fun ride to work while saving a bit of money, while still others are simply sick of sitting in traffic jams.

To become a member of Bike2Work you need only join the mailing list and make the commitment to get to work under your own power from time to time. Some people ride solo, others meet in large groups to commute together. Some ride every day, others just once or twice a week. It’s a social thing as well, with Bike2Workers often dining together, getting together on weekends and building friendships. They are very supportive of newcomers and will escort them to and from work until they are comfortable on the roads and on their bikes. They will help find alternative routes, point out bicycle shops, give tips on bicycle maintenance and train you on how to read the traffic.

You don’t have to own an expensive bicycle to join, as Bike2Work is collaborating with local bicycle manufacturer Polygon to produce affordable bicycles and helmets. Wimcycle, another local brand, makes cheaper, less durable bicycles, while Indonesia-based United offers models toward the higher end. You can pick up good secondhand bicycles at Pasar Rumput (Grass Market) (see p. 148).

‘Our dream is that soon every household will own at least one bicycle and that someday riding your bicycle to work in Jakarta will be seen as a normal alternative for transportation.’ Dani Dewanto of the B2W Program and Technical Team

WHO TO CONTACT www.b2w-indonesia.or.id

GO TO Jl. Ahmad Dahlan #20 south Jakarta

CYCLING IN THE CITY The second and last Sunday of every month is car-free day on Jl. Sudirman and Thamrin from the Senayan roundabout to the Monas. The same goes for these two roads every Sunday morning from 5am to 8am (exact times can vary). For those who are looking to cycle among hundreds of other riders to really get a sense of community, and in fact to join the cycling community, there is no better opportunity than this one.

Other sweet spots to go for a ride are the Monas, which offers curb hopping and mazes of paths among the trees; the Senayan Sports Complex for some short dirt trails, a few laps around the stadium and general exploration; and the Ragunan Zoo, great for early morning speed cruises on the sloping, serpentine pathways, plus long stairwells for the brave at heart.

There is also the University of Indonesia, which offers a wide, open campus for logging a lot of tree-lined miles with loads of cute girls and guys around to provide distraction; Taman Mini, which not only provides a cultural tour of Indonesia, but has enough space for a couple of hours of exploring. Ancol also has loads of bicycle friendly paths and roads, while the neighborhoods just west of there have real bicycle lanes.

For clean, quiet rides among Jakarta’s finest, head to the upscale communities of Menteng, Kebayoran Baru, Kemang or Pondok Indah on Sunday mornings. For those with adventure running through their blood, a ride along the canals and railroads provides a good lesson in socioeconomics; it’s slow on speed but heavy on the eyeballs. A fine stretch to start on is the Kali Malang (Malang Canal), which runs through the heart of the city. You can hop on it from Menteng where Jl. Cokroaminoto crosses over Jl. Latuharhari.

Be aware that although bicycling is alive and well in Jakarta, the key to safe riding is to ride defensively rather than aggressively. Signal intentions to turn or stop, ride in a group if possible, wear reflective clothing, use lights at night, never ride without a helmet and never assume a vehicle will give the right of way. The rule in Jakarta is to go with the flow, fill the gap in traffic, relax, but always be aware and stay off the main roads as much as possible.

CHECK OUT www.rodalink.com, www.unit-edbike.com and www.polygonbikes.com

MOUNTAIN BIKING Tearing around muddy bends, disappearing over steep drop-offs, plummeting down a screaming hillside and occasionally doing a Superman over the handlebars—that’s what single-track bike courses are all about.

The JPG (Jalur Pipa Gas) cross-country mountain bike course in south Jakarta is not only home to the Bike2Work movement, but also the go-to place to take in some solid single track and get a dose of fresh air. Whether you go for fun or to compete in one of the races (there are categories, for men, women, children, pros and members of the public), the course is easy enough that most competent riders can complete it, while those with skills will still find it challenging.

The 7.2km track combines footpaths, single-track and dual-path dirt roads. It rolls through trees, fields and local neighborhoods, goes over rivers and streams and past a fishing pond. It combines sharp corners, fairly steep but short hills, rickety bridges, muddy sections, fast straight-aways and knobby root stretches. Oh, and don’t forget the water buffalo.

The action starts at Mpok Café in Kampung Lengkong Timur. It’s here that you can pick up all the latest mountain biking news, form friendships, find other cyclists to ride with and fill up on fried bananas and sweet coffee before setting off on a roller coaster ride.

HEADS UP

The course is generally quite safe at slow speeds, and there are sections that some may need to walk. Be careful at higher speeds, though, and try not to ride faster than you are comfortable with, since some sections could send you sailing over your handlebars.

HOW TO GET THERE Finding Mpok Café is nearly impossible without going with those in the know. Head to the McDonalds parking lot in Bintaro Jaya Sektor 9 at the intersection of Jl. Bintaro Utama 9, Jl. Jend. Sudirman and Jl. Maleo. This is just north of the Jakarta-Serpong toll road. Groups meet on Saturday or Sunday morning between 6am and 7am. Some groups will then head toward Sentul and the Puncak area, some toward central Jakarta and others to the JPG or any other number of trails in the area. A new trail recently opened and others are constantly being sought out and developed, so it’s good to go back regularly and find out updates.

SENTUL Long known as the go-to place for both mountain bikers and road cyclists who want to ride hard but still stay close to home, Sentul is roughly 45km from central Jakarta. Riders generally head out early on a weekend to avoid traffic and take advantage of the cooler weather.

Bikers meet at the Star Deli in Sentul at around 7am on most Saturdays and finish up by lunchtime. Some of the rides will be fairly hard core, running you into the ground. Others are more suitable for newbies. Most rides start in the Sentul Selatan area, just a few minutes from the toll road.

For road bikers, there are some nicely paved stretches of road relatively free of heavy traffic, with some folks starting at the lake next to the park gates near Rainbow Hills. Mountain bikers, meanwhile, can enjoy countless rides in the hills and mountains on single tracks, village paths and plantation and rice paddy trails. There are some long hills out here that expats usually ride up, while many Jakarta locals get shuttled up in a truck before putting on their gear for downhill-only rides.

Top off-road rides include:

HAMBALANG HILL This ride has a couple of good downhill stretches that include riding through a quarry as well as some grinding ascents, including one called The Wall. It starts north of the Star Deli in a kampung that links up with a nice road that later turns rocky with lots of climbing. It continues through a semi-rural area that includes some fast dirt downhills. It ends near Sirkuit Sentul.

GUNUNG GEULIS (PRETTY MOUNTAIN)

There are many variations on this ride, one of which is to start south of Star Deli and ride in the dirt and mud parallel to the toll road. The route follows the river for a while before climbing, then dropping into the town of Gadog near Jl. Puncak Jaya. From there begins a long series of climbs that end on a ridge looking over the Rainbow Hills golf course. The ride continues until it reaches The Cyclists warung at the T-intersection of Jalan Bojong Koneng-Babakan and Jalan Bojong Koneng-Gunung Geulis. You can then take the Waskita path, a fun downhill single track that leads back to Sentul.

HUNTER’S HUT Start at the General’s House and take the dirt road, cutting through farmland and forest all the way to Pondok Pemburu (Hunter’s Hut), where refreshments are sometimes available. Next, cross a stream, pass a church and follow the ridge-line toward Gunung Pancar, a pyramid-shaped mountain home to the Sebex MTB Bike Park. This park is a wicked single-track, downhill mountain bike course with banked turns, exposed roots, boulders, meter-high jumps, mud puddles, sandbags and daring drop-offs. Although Sebex has an extreme downhill track option, it also has easier side paths for those less daring.

The ride finishes by passing through some fields and a development area before getting back to Sentul. Note: This ride can be done as a circuit from Sentul, but this makes it a long ride with lots of climbing. It’s easier to get a lift to the General’s House and then get picked up at the bottom of the Sebex downhill track.

Since all these routes are unmarked and can be difficult to find and/or follow if you don’t know where you’re going, the best way to ride is to join one of the many cycling clubs that come here often. Also, the wet season makes all off-road tracks significantly more difficult. If you’re riding after a heavy rain, be prepared for plenty of slippery mud.

WHERE TO GO The Star Deli in Plaza Amsterdam in Sentul is a popular place for cyclists to gather both before and after rides. It has good burgers, beer and flirtatious barmaids, and offers a good place to get cleaned up before heading home.

HOW TO GET THERE Take the Jagorawi toll road to the exit at km 36—Sentul Selatan/ Sentul City. Drivers can park outside Star Deli or at any of the shopping centers in the Sentul City area.

THE VELODROME Jakarta is home to a full-sized velodrome, an oval-banked track for cycling, with large angled walls made for ripping laps and training for the next big racing event. It’s a bit rundown, but intact enough for you to spend some time spinning your wheels. It has a small section of stadium style seating so friends can come and cheer (or jeer). Open to the public as long as cyclists register in the velodrome office, it’s a great place for a rider to feel like a pro. For those with a fixed gear bicycle, the latest trend among cyclists these days, it’s an excellent place to get a workout.

Note: There’s a good chance local kids will be using the velodrome for bicycling or even for sliding down the steep embankments on their butts. Challenge them to a race, and may the best cyclist win. Also, keep in mind that going high on the banked wall is a thrill but it can be dangerous. Always wear a helmet, and don’t attempt anything that you’re not capable of.

HOW TO GET THERE Take Busway #4 to the Velodrome stop (note that only folding bicycles are allowed on a Busway bus).

FOR DRIVERS From Central Jakarta, take Jl. Pramuka as it turns into Jl. Pemuda. The Velodrome is on the left-hand side just past the Busway stop. There is plenty of parking inside.

DANCING

BELLY DANCING Get your moves down in a dance studio. Learn to swing your hips with Christine, a voluptuous belly dancing instructor. As a belly-dancing student you will wear jingly belts and learn to sway rhythmically to Middle Eastern music, wiggling and thrusting, shaking and strutting; hands held steady while mid-sections move magically. In addition to belly dancing classes, the dance studio, located in a large converted house, offers hula and Bollywood dancing.

Bollywood movies have popularized moves such as shimmying, arm rolls, hop steps, head swivels and gestures that mimic archers shooting arrows. Just like in the movies, Bollywood dancing requires first and foremost the desire to boogie; after that you’ll find yourself exercising without even having realizing it. The music is rocking, the instructor is good looking and everyone around will think you look great in tight, hot pink pants.

WHERE TO GO Jl. Mas Putih, Blok D–48—Permata Hijau

HOW TO GET THERE Take Jl. Teuku Nyak Arif to Jl. Permata Hijau Boulevard Barat, then turn on to Jl. Mas Putih. Parking is limited to the street.

CHECK OUT www.bellydancejakarta.com and www.huladancejakarta.blogspot.com

Scuba diving in the warm waters of the Java Sea.

DIVING

If you really want to enjoy Jakarta life, work all week and dive all weekend. Dive shops in Jakarta offer convenient certification courses for those without a scuba diving license. In just two days you can finish the bookwork and pool sessions, ready to spend the third and fourth days exploring the warm waters of the Java Sea.

Most dive outfits also offer scuba for kids, refresher courses, advanced open water, rescue and dive master.

Most operators run monthly trips to the Thousand Islands, Krakatau and Ujung Kulon in West Java, and if a person has more time, to Sulawesi, Komodo and Papua. Coral bleaching, dynamite and cyanide fishing and a constant battering of garbage and pollution from Jakarta has taken its toll on the visibility (10–15m) around the Thousand Islands. Still, there are a solid number of good dives out there. Try out the following hotspots.

NAPOLEON AND TABULARASA WRECKS NEAR PRAMUKA ISLAND The ships, the sea life and the coral are what make this dive cool. Its close proximity to Jakarta makes it easy to reach as well.

PUTRI ISLAND This is by far the best-known island for an open-water certification, largely because it has its own dive center. Overnight options are reasonable, and the swimming pool and karaoke bar make it an interesting hide-out for families or party-goers.

ALAM KOTOK ISLAND With its private dive center and basic accommodation, this is one of the best-value options for a quick dive weekend. Although closer to Jakarta than Pulau Putri, the marine and coral life here seems to be in better condition.

PENIKI ISLAND The house reef along the west side of the island is a sloping reef that runs 5–20m deep. Fish life here is good, with batfish, parrotfish, moray eels, barracuda and passing turtles. A wooden cargo vessel wreck on the southwest tip of the reef at 20m attracts schools of fish and some of the larger parrotfish. The focus here is shore dives.

MACAN ISLAND Stylish but basic eco-resort constructed from driftwood and recycled materials. Although the lack of a dive center makes this a pricey option for divers, there are still plenty of snorkeling opportunities.

CORAL LIFE AT SEPA ISLAND The beaches are beautiful and you’ll find no shortage of marine life. Its proximity to Pulau Putri’s dive center keeps the prices within reason.

GOSONGLAGA ISLAND The island is actually a sandbank that is entirely surrounded by a reef that extends down 20m. The corals here rival those of Alam Kotok, and a large variety of reef fish have made this their home. Stingrays are frequent visitors, as are sweet lips, trigger fish, lionfish, moray eels, turtles, surgeons and unicorn fish.

HEADS UP

Boats to all these islands leave from the Marina Jaya Ancol. Just check at the office.

TOP DIVE OUTFITS IN JAKARTA Kristal Klear Dive in the Kristal Hotel (J. Terogong Raya, Cilandak Barat; www.kristalkleardive.com); Aquasport Indonesia in Kemang (Jl Bangka Raya 39a; 021-749-9045 or enquiry@aquasport.co.id); ODY Dive Center Indonesia in Menteng (Jl. Panarukan 15; www.odydive.com); Bubbles Dive Center in Kuningan (Jl. Guru Mughni 18; www.bubbles-divecenter.com); Lautan Mas Dive Shop in Glodok (Jl. Toko Tiga 24; www. lautanmas.com)

FUTSAL (INDOOR SOCCER)

A curiously miniaturized version of football, futsal is a fast-paced indoor sport that is played all year round. With teams made up of five players and a ball that is smaller than a standard football, the game is lightning quick. It relies more on ball-handling techniques and control than brute kicking force.

WHERE TO GO The following are just a few of the myriad locations to play:

• Pakubuwono Futsal Center (Jl. Kyai Maja Raya 63; 021-724-3088)

• Planet Futsal Serpong at Kompleks Multiguna (Blok B2 #8, Jl. Raya Serpong km 7, Tangerang; 021-539-8234)

• Planet Futsal Kelapa Gading (Kompleks AXC, Building E, Jl Boulevard Raya, #1, Kelapa Gading; 021-4584-2594)

• Pro Arena (Jl. Metro Pondok Indah Blok BB III, Pondok Pinang, Kebayoran Lama; 021-765-8670/021-9407-5700)

FOR A MORE COMPLETE LISTING OF FIELDS, CHECK OUT www.makarafutsal.com/fighting-ground

GOLF

A round or two of golf is more than just a way to get in some exercise or get away from the family, it’s an avenue for soaking up a bit of nature and fresh air, something everyone needs a lot more of. Whether you want to practice your putting, have something to prove to your buddies or just want an excuse to dress in funny clothes and drive around in a miniature car, hitting the greens in and around Jakarta is a must.

Of all the courses in the area, the Jagorawi Golf and Country Club probably has the most cachet. Although there are 47 holes, it is the ‘Old Course,’ consisting of 18 splendid holes carved out along the banks of the Cikeas River 30 years ago that captures the imagination.

This is a walking-only course with fairways that are narrow and generally lined with impenetrable secondary growth. Jagorawi’s Old Course is sheltered and can get extraordinarily hot, especially for those who tee off in the early morning. Once the dry season has arrived, a post-lunch start offers the prospect of a second nine, in which the temperature drops to a balmy level and all the colors and textures of a late afternoon in the tropics are visible.

Over the years, the course has built up a devoted membership despite the spartan changing rooms and other perceived shortcomings, because it is a golfer’s course where it is not necessary to book. The country club also has three pools and offers treks, horseback riding and polo.

WHERE TO GO Take the Jagorawi toll road heading toward Bogor and exit at km 24.

CHECK OUT www.jagorawi.com

From the moment your bags are unloaded at the Cengkareng Golf Course to the final check-out with a charge card-cum-locker key, it is clear this is a professionally run business whose aim is to get people back.

The 18-hole course is not easy. In fact, it is tough enough to have been chosen for the 2002 Indonesian Open, although its proximity to the airport must have counted in what were still considered risky times for the country. And even though it occupies a flat, rectangular plot, the designers and gardeners have achieved a remarkable variety of layout and color on what is, pleasingly, also a walking course.

The excellent level of service impresses, from the cold towels at each of the drink stops to the delightful but not over-familiar staff to the low-key clubhouse with its decent dining and proper spike bar. Partly because of its location, the course can get crowded, and there is always the risk of a general and his entourage creating mayhem with the tee-off schedule. You may also need earplugs on two or three of the holes as planes take off nearby.

WHERE TO GO Soewarna Business Park just off Jl. Raya Bandara at the Soekarno-Hatta Airport, just before Terminal 1.

CHECK OUT www.cengkarenggolfclub.com

RANCAMAYA is a development that took off in the booming 1990s, but the sheer scale and location set it apart. As you leave behind the chaos of the Bogor/Sukabumi road and motor down the kilometer-long tree-lined drive, the ambition of the developers becomes apparent. The estate is huge, and much of it faces the still partially wooded slopes of Gunung Salak (Mount Salak).

The golf course is beautifully orientated to take full advantage of the views, especially the first and tenth holes. Different sections of the estate have been set aside for various types of housing, with the top-end plots located adjacent to the course. Some, though not all, of the mini-palaces that have been erected are shocking in their vulgarity. Many prominent Suharto era figures ‘acquired’ plots here, and a round of golf can feel a little like a lesson in recent political history. Rancamaya is professionally managed, well maintained and has an excellent clubhouse with great views. It rains most days, so an early tee-off is recommended. Buggies are mandatory, and while the caddies are charming, they are certainly not among the best in terms of reading the greens for the lazy golfer.

WHERE TO GO Take the Jagorawi toll road just past km 46 to Ciawi and exit to the right on to Jl. Rancamaya Utama.

CHECK OUT www.rancamayaestate.com

Another excellent choice is the Bukit Pelangi Golf Course (Rainbow Hills). This beautiful property sits at an elevation of around 500m above sea level, and this makes for a nice, ambient temperature. To be in the fresh mountain air in the early morning is a privilege. Although the decaying shell of a planned Sheraton Hotel overlooks the course and the clubhouse is below standard, the rewards of playing this tough hilly course more than outweigh the objections.

This is not a walking course, but many golfers are probably grateful for the buggies given the undulations that need to be negotiated. As with most Puncak-based courses, it is probably wise to tee off early. In truth, there are a number of competing properties in the area that can be recommended, including Gunung Geulis and Bukit Sentul, but playing at Rainbow Hills really offers a sense of being completely away from the maddening crowds of Jakarta.

HOW TO GET THERE Take the Jagorawi toll road to Sentul, exiting at km 36. Go up Jl. Thamrin, take a right on Jl. Bukit Sentul and then a left on to Jl. Cijayanti, following it to the course.

CHECK OUT www.rainbowhillsgolf.com

The Matoa Golf Course was built in 1995, reportedly as an act of ‘homage’ to President Suharto by one of his business cronies. It is located on a compact site among the kampungs of south Jakarta near Ciganjur. Getting there entails a tiresome drive along roads teeming with motorbikes and public transport vehicles. But once there, the parklike setting is very attractive and there has been a real effort to plant many different tree varieties, including the eponymous matoa tree.

The course is not the most demanding, especially off the white tees, and unless a drive is particularly wayward, the man-made contours will keep the ball in play. One assumes this is how the former president liked it. The clubhouse is well situated, and ending the day on the terrace watching the final groups putt out with the calls to prayer emanating from the local mosques is sure to make for good Jakarta memories.

HOW TO GET THERE From the outer ring road take Jl. Cilandak KKO. Follow it as it turns into Jl. Muhammad Kafi I and take it to km 7 (note that due to a one-way stretch, you will need to detour on to Jl. Mabes Polri, then on to Jl. Paso, before getting to Jl. Muhammad Kafi I).

CHECK OUT www.matoanasional.net

FAST FACT

There are roughly 40 golf courses in the greater Jakarta area.

HIKING

Indonesia lies along the ring of fire, which means it’s a hotbed of volcanic activity. The majority of islands have bulging backbones made of pointy peaks, many of which reach to heights of more than 3,000m. Java Lava, a hiking club that has been around since the early 1980s, is a non-commercial, professionally run group that embarks on 10–12 trips a year to mountaintops across the archipelago.

Generally, people fly out on a Friday morning or afternoon to the city nearest the mountain they’re climbing. A chartered car or bus whisks them to a losmen (guesthouse or small hotel) and they wake at the whip crack of dawn to begin marching their way up the volcano. Groups spend the night in a tent on the summit, waking at 4am to the sound of porters singing and clanging pots and pans. Then they slip, slide and trundle back down the mountain for a beer, a shower and the return flight home. Trips take roughly 72 hours, so many are close to home. These include hikes up Gede and Pangrango, both of which can be seen from Jakarta, as well as hikes around Bandung and near Pelabuhan Ratu.

Java Lava is designed for the working professional with little time to plan his or her own trips and work out the necessary logistics. Java Lava is not a tourist group or babysitter’s club, and is geared toward hikers who have some cash to spare and the desire to witness an incredible side of Indonesia. An experienced hiker leads every trip and most include porters.

CHECK OUT www.javalavaindonesia.multiply.com

Alex Korns, a long-time veteran of Indonesia’s hiking scene, has loads of information about trekking in the Puncak area. He can provide maps and guidebooks and can also arrange for a guided hike of the area led by a seasoned professional. His website has a plethora of information to read before getting started.

CHECK OUT www.puncaktrek.com

A newcomer to the trekking scene is Indonesia Expedition Guides. This group is the brainchild of local hiking legend Krystyna Krassowska, a British explorer who takes singles and groups all over Indonesia and as far away as Africa. The group also offers Saturday hikes to the Sentul area, trips to Puncak, outdoor skills courses and clinics, adult walks, trail runs, family and kid-friendly hikes and adventure race training.

CHECK OUT www.idguides.org

Horse riding at a Jakarta equestrian club.

HORSE RIDING

As there’s nothing better than the feeling of a strong-muscled brute beneath your buttocks, check out one of Jakarta’s equestrian clubs. You can either pay for a guided hour-long amble around the grounds, stroll around looking at horses while just enjoying the sense of being out of town and outdoors, or sign up for regular riding lessons.

STABLES OF CHOICE JPEC Sentul is the most low-key and simple of them all. It’s located 30 minutes outside Jakarta, just off the toll road and is surrounded by loads of greenery. It’s very popular with the expat community and boasts some good quality instructors. The café here is also nice, with some solid grub and a great chilled-out atmosphere.

Sunset on the summit of volcanic Mt Rinjani.

WHERE TO GO Jl. Pasir Maung, Desa Babakan Madang.

HOW TO GET THERE Take the Jagorawi toll road to the exit at km 36. Head up Jl. Thamrin and turn left on to Jl. Pasir Maung.

WHO TO CALL 021-8796-1569

TRIJAYA EQUESTRIAN CLUB, located in Ciganjur, south of Cilandak, is fairly small with only one indoor arena and no paddock for horses. Despite that, it’s quite popular and is fairly easy to access.

WHERE TO GO Jl. H Montong #23—Ciganjur Jagakarsa.

HOW TO GET THERE From the outer ring road, take Jl. Cilandak KKO. Follow it as it turns into Jl. Muhammad Kafi I (note that due to a one-way stretch, you’ll need to detour on to Jl. Mabes Polri, then on to Jl. Paso, before getting to Jl. Muhammad Kafi I). Follow this road until you spot Jl. H Montong to the left.

WHO TO CALL 021-786-3063/021-7888-0176

ARTHAYASA EQUESTRIAN CLUB is located at the far end of Cinere. It takes some time to get here, and the traffic can be a little rough as the roads are quite narrow. That being said, this used to be the club for Jakarta’s serious equestrians. Most of the good riding instructors have taught here, and it sits on a huge expanse of land with several paddocks for horses to graze in. There is a swimming pool and tennis court too. The place has seen better days, but still it’s worth a day trip for a stroll around the grounds and a little riding.

Indonesian cross-bred horses racing at the Pulomas Horse Racing Course.

WHERE TO GO Blok Tengki, Desa Grogol—Depok.

HOW TO GET THERE See website for detailed instructions.

CHECK OUT www.arthayasa.com

HORSE RACING

Pacuan Kuda Pulomas (Pulomas Horse Racing Course), a large swath of green in east Jakarta set aside for horse racing, is the place to be on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

Chill out with good buddies, speculate on the horses in the nearby corrals and feel the thrill of half a dozen beautifully muscled beasts sprinting 1,400m around a track under a hot Jakarta sun. Most of the horses are G3 or G4, which means they are the third or fourth generation of a local Indonesian horse that was bred with a thoroughbred from abroad. They are now referred to as a KPI (kuda pacu Indonesia), an Indonesian racing horse. You can get more information by picking up a racing guide at the track that features lists of horses and their stats, race start times, jockey names, stables and prize money for each race. Note: It’s best to have some binoculars to watch the action from start to finish.

Races are held throughout the year, though in order to get the updated schedule or race information you will need to call ahead. The races are not held regularly, but you could just rock up on a Sunday and pray it’s your lucky day.

HEADS UP

Gambling is illegal in Indonesia, and at the race track there is no formal place to bet. All money wagered is passed from hand to hand rather than through any official channel.

WHERE TO GO Pacuan Kuda Pulomas in east Jakarta, bounded by Jl. Kayu Putih and Jl. Perintis Kemerdekaan.

HOW TO GET THERE Take Busway #2 to the ASMI stop and walk or take an ojek.

FOR DRIVERS Take the Ir. Wiyoto Wiyono toll road to the Suprapto flyover and head east on Jl. Perintis Kemerdekaan, turn on to Jl. Pulomas Timur and then turn left on to Jl. Sirap.

CHECK OUT www.forum-sandalwood.web.id

ICE SKATING

In a country where snow and ice don’t exist, there is nothing more entertaining than watching a bunch of people trying to figure skate for the very first time. The Sky Rink ice rink in Taman Anggrek Mall is just the place to go, with open skating for the public, private and group lessons, competitions and a hockey league that plays once a week (for the Canadians).

It’s a bit small to attempt those triple axles you’ve seen on TV, but it’s a great place to set the kids free, letting them run into walls and stumble around like newborn giraffes in high heels. It’s not an activity for the self-conscious, however, since an observation area looks over the rink from one level up.

FAST FACT

The rink is located in Mal Taman Anggrek (Orchid Garden Mall), which was built on what was once a massive orchid garden. Now the only flowers one can find here are the cheap plastic ones for sale in the Metro Department store.

CHECK OUT www.skyrinkjakarta.com

WHERE TO GO Taman Anggrek Mall on Jl. S. Parman.

PAINTBALL

Slithering through the greasy mud, a soldier clutches his weapon of war. Sweat pools in his ears as the sniper on the hill pins him down. A solid hit in the shoulder and he is going home. Well, he’s going back to the starting point, at least, to load up on more paintballs.

The Patriot Paintball Sport office is full of guns and war memorabilia—Vietnam War era pictures depicting grunts getting pulled out of hidden underground bunkers and big guys with big weapons.

After signing in, donning the fatigues provided and picking out your widow maker (made for paintballs, of course), you’ll get an introductory course on why you shouldn’t shoot others in the head at close range and other important information. Then you’re let loose in a jungle-like setting and encouraged to blast away at loved ones while stealing their team flag to win the competition.

Kitted out for a game of paintball.

Between rounds, keep an eye out for paint-ball commandos who come religiously to play assassin, soldier and mercenary, as well as members of the Indonesian army who frequent the place.

Patriot Paintball Sport also has a special ‘management retreat’ in which mid-level managers are encouraged to drop the polite water cooler conversations and instead imagine that ‘Bob from accounting’ is actually a baby-killing Commie from the mountainous regions of Crackistan.

WHERE TO GO Alam Sutera Family Park, Sutera Boulevard, Alam Sutera, Serpong, Tangerang.

HOW TO GET THERE Take the Jakarta-Merak toll road to Jl. Serpong Raya, then head south as far as the Alam Sutera clocktower. Turn left on to Jl. Alam Sutera to Sutera Boulevard.

WHO TO CALL 021-539-7777

GETTING IN Open 10am to 5pm, 7 days a week.

OTHER Children ages 12 and under are not allowed to play.

RUNNING

If running and drinking beer are two activities you thoroughly enjoy, the Hash House Harriers will be right up your alley. Hashing is running made fun, because rather than just jogging around your neighborhood in circles, someone sets up a course out in nature and others must follow the clues to make it from start to finish. Once a runner has successfully completed the course, the fun begins, with a social activity called the

‘circle’ where members socialize, sing drinking songs (while drinking) and new members get named. Generally runs start at 5pm on weekdays and last one hour, although the circle can go on through the evening. Weekend runs usually start at 4pm and last from one to one and a half hours.

Guidebook author Andrew Whitmarsh running in a local neighborhood.

There are several different groups that cater to men, women or both. Jakarta HHH runs on Mondays and is made up predominantly of men. The Pussy Hash, or Jakarta Hash House Harriettes, is women only. Their runs tend to be milder and they go out on Wednesdays. Batavia Hash House Harrier Hoons (or B4) runs on Thursdays. Only men are allowed except on the 4th Thursday of each month. TGIF is held on the 2nd and 4th Saturday of each month and is co-ed. Betawi H3 runs on the 1st and 3rd Saturday and 2nd and 4th Friday of each month. Finally, JAVA House Hash Harriers runs on the last Sunday of the month.

CHECK OUT www.indohash.com. Also try going through Jakarta Free Spirit (see contact information below).

HELPFUL HINT To join, just show up at one of the runs and pay up to whoever is collecting money.

JAKARTA FREE SPIRIT For those looking for more running and less drinking, this is the go-to group. It meets every Saturday at the Ragunan Zoo at 6.30am to run among the animals. The group runs a 5km loop, which anyone is welcome to join. Smaller groups run together in Pondok Indah, Kemang, Kelapa Gading, Pelita Harapan and start from the Four Seasons during the week.

Co-ed teams playing Ultimate Frisbee.

For a fee, you can get on the mailing list to find out more about the runs, get discounts on stores in Jakarta and Singapore, be part of social gatherings throughout the year, join trips outside of Jakarta and be up on their 5km, 10km and marathon race schedules.

CHECK OUT www.jakartafreespirit.org

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

This sport, which employs the throwing and catching of a Frisbee, is named Ultimate because those who play it regard it as the greatest sport on earth. Note: It shares very little with the games played with one’s dog on the beach. A cross between football, rugby, American football and basketball, Ultimate is played by two teams of seven on a field roughly the size of a hockey field. The basic premise is that players must pass the Frisbee from teammate to teammate until one of them catches it in the end zone.

Competitors will find themselves leaping in the air, sprinting the length of the field, throwing forehands, knocking poorly thrown discs from flight and sweating like they’ve never sweated before. Fast-paced, since there are no referees to slow things down, and safe, because it’s non-contact, the only way to determine if it truly is the Ultimate sport is to go and try it. The main idea of the sport is ‘the spirit of the game,’ which means players call their own fouls and everyone is there to have fun.

WHERE TO GO Pick-up games are held every Sunday from 4pm to 6pm on the field hockey pitch at the north end of the Gelora Bung Karno Sports Complex off Jl. Gerbang Pemuda.

CHECK OUT www.ultimateindonesia.com