Читать книгу Walking in Scotland's Far North - Andy Walmsley - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
The ‘far north’ is one of Scotland's best-kept secrets. Despite its many attractions, the area is largely ignored by British holidaymakers, though it is popular with visitors from elsewhere in Europe. Even at the height of the summer season, the area is never really busy, and this is one of its attractions to the connoisseur who appreciates the solitude, the rugged coastline and the unique landscape with its bumpy gneiss moorland and jutting peaks.
The country's northern peninsula, with the remote headland of Cape Wrath at its tip, is covered in this guide as far as Ullapool in the south and Dunbeath in the east. The guide is selective rather than comprehensive, however, and readers will notice a bias towards the west side of the northern peninsula. This is intentional, as most of the rugged (and thus the most interesting) terrain is concentrated there; but Morven (the highest summit in the old county of Caithness) and its neighbour Scaraben, are included, along with a couple of other interesting routes on the eastern side. The far north-eastern corner of Caithness (the ‘lowlands beyond the highlands’), including John o'Groats, Wick and Thurso, is not covered.
The area has some of the most challenging and spectacular mountains in the British Isles, including splendid peaks such as Suilven and Quinag, yet because they are mostly below Munro status most of the hills have been spared the worst excesses of exploitation. Nevertheless, the far north hills stand head and shoulders above many a Munro in terms of interest and character.
Sunset over Scourie Bay
A large part of the area covered by the guide is made up of lumpy gneiss moorland, sprinkled with a multitude of tiny lochans, which form an unusual landscape. Readers who like wild, remote country with extensive vistas opening up around each corner will find many routes to their liking. There is a real feeling of spaciousness up here, which is often lacking further south.
Another jewel of the far north is the coastline. From Ullapool north to Cape Wrath, and then east as far as Strathy Point, the Atlantic seaboard threads a ragged line, encompassing wonderful little crofting settlements, spectacular headlands, excellent beaches, fjord-like sea lochs, fascinating offshore islands (including the Summer Isles and Handa Island), the British mainland's highest sea cliffs and two of Scotland's most celebrated sea-stacks – the Old Man of Stoer and Am Buachaille.
As if this were not enough, the area has limestone caves, Britain's highest waterfall and a number of interesting antiquities! Surely such variety in so small an area is unique.
Looking across to the mainland peaks from the Summer Isles
View north across Balnakeil Bay
Surprisingly, although this is the farthest-flung corner of the British mainland, the mountains are all relatively accessible, being fairly close to roads in most cases. However, they are also quite well scattered, and for this reason it is difficult to climb a large number of them from one fixed base. The dedicated peak-bagger would have to move around by car quite a bit to collect them all, using a number of different bases. With this in mind, I have mentioned the best bases for each area at the end of the area introduction.
Topography
Much of the southern area of the guide, Coigach and Assynt, consists of the characteristically choppy moor, composed of ancient gneiss rocks and made up of innumerable abrupt little hillocks cradling a multitude of tiny lochans. This terrain seldom rises much above 200m, leaving peaks such as Suilven standing in spectacular isolation. Many of the peaks consist of huge outcrops of Torridon sandstone, a rock which weathers into fantastic pinnacles and spires and which has a superb rough texture, ideal for scrambling.
Further north, above Rhiconich, there is more schist, giving a smoother more boggy type of moor, and rising from this are the majestic quartzite peaks of Arkle and Foinaven, characterised by their swooping ridges and dazzling screes.
Moving eastwards from the coast the mountains generally become less shapely and thus less interesting, but hills such as Ben Leoid, Ben Hee and the Munro Ben Klibreck give good walking in superb lonely terrain.
Even further east, the mountainous terrain of the west gives way to a bleak rolling moorland with very few interesting summits. The exception to this is the area immediately inland of Berriedale on the east coast, where outcroppings of sandstone have produced the distinctive peaks of Morven, Smean, Maiden Pap and Scaraben – well worth a visit.
Overlooking the north coast village of Tongue are the prominent isolated peaks of Ben Loyal (often given the sobriquet of ‘Queen of Scottish Mountains’) and Ben Hope (most northerly of the Munros). Ben Loyal is a shapely peak, but lacks the pinnacled ridges of Suilven or Stack Pollaidh, while Ben Hope is of simple form but is challengingly craggy, particularly its northern ridge, which provides the most difficult ascent route.
The coastline, especially in the west and north, is almost as spectacular as the mountains and boasts a number of features which are worth a visit. North from Ullapool, the coast skirts around Loch Kanaird and Ardmair Bay, then passes beneath the cliffs of Ben Mor Coigagh, with the Summer Isles offshore at this point, before reaching the exposed headland of Rubha Coigeach. Turning abruptly south-west, the coast passes the extensive sands of Achnahaird Bay, and twists and turns around the innumerable inlets of Enard Bay (including Loch Inver) before encompassing a string of sandy beaches on the run out to the Point of Stoer, with its spectacular sea stack the Old Man of Stoer.
Loch Lurgainn from Stack Polly, Route 7
Loch Stack
From here the shoreline penetrates deep inland, to the heads of the fjord-like lochs Glencoul and Glendhu, then threads a ragged line north, encompassing the island-studded Eddrachillis Bay. After sneaking past the Isle of Handa, the coast forms two more fjord-like sea lochs in Lochs Laxford and Inchard, before reaching the beach at Sandwood Bay.
Sandwood Bay would be a crowded and commercialised place if it were situated further south, or even if accessible by road, but it has escaped the attentions of the day-tripping crowds because of its remoteness. Its 2km of reddish sand, overlooked by the sea stack known as Am Buachaille, is completely unspoilt and often deserted.
North of the bay the coast becomes rugged again as it rises to the headland of Cape Wrath, with its stubby lighthouse. This is Britain's most remote headland (but not the most northerly). Turning east, the coast presents a series of high cliffs to the crashing seas of the Atlantic, the ones at Cleit Dubh being the highest on the British mainland, but these gradually subside into the gentle shores of the shallow Kyle of Durness with its mud flats and sand dunes.
Beyond the sandy headland of Fair Aird (variously referred to as Faraid Head or ‘Far Out Head’) a series of delectable coves with sandy beaches lead along to the mouth of Loch Eriboll, by far the largest of the ‘fjords’ along this coast. Eriboll is often used as a deep-water refuge by shipping during stormy weather.
The Kyle of Tongue, which is the next inlet along the coast, is completely different from the brooding Eriboll, being a shallow firth like the Kyle of Durness, but it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Loyal, giving it a scenic quality which is lacking in its neighbouring sea lochs.
Continuing east, the coast shortly reaches Bettyhill at the outlet of Strath Naver, which is the border of this area of the guide.
Climate
Contrary to popular belief, the climate does not get worse the further north you go! In fact, the far north has a much more favourable climate than the central highlands. For example, average July rainfall in Fort William is over 5 inches, compared to about 3 inches at Inverness or Stornoway, and only 2.6 inches at Wick.
Like most of Scotland, May and June are the driest and sunniest months, but September/October can also give good sunny days, along with the low-angled sun which is so atmospheric. July and August provide the warmest weather, but rainfall averages are higher than in May or June and there is, of course, the midge problem to contend with at that time of year. If camping, it is worth remembering that exposed coastal sites suffer less from midges than more sheltered locations because of the sea breezes.
Another interesting fact about this area is that bad weather is often very localised. When rain and mist shroud the hills, a trip out onto one of the west coast headlands – such as Rubha Stoer or Rubha Coigeach – can often find brighter skies and no rain, although this fact is no consolation if your aim is to ascend the inland peaks!
Inverpolly
Winter climbing is not much practised in the area covered by the guide because of the rarity of good conditions. Snowfall is not uncommon during winter, but rarely stays for long on the coastal hills. Inland peaks such as Ben Hee and Ben Klibreck generally hold more snow, but the winter climbing conditions found in the Cairngorms, for example, are not common in the guidebook area.
Access problems due to snow are rare, unless you intend to attempt to reach some remote location in a particularly bad winter, but notes on the accessibility of the roads in a severe winter are given below in ‘Roads within the Area’.
Plants, Birds and Animals
Plant life in the far north is much the same as you might find in areas further south, such as the moorland of northern England. Some of the hills have a thick covering of heather, particularly on their lower slopes, and elsewhere there is rough moorland grass and sedge – often waterlogged – on a base of peat. Due to the scarcity of paths on the less popular hills, this can make for arduous approaches.
Apart from a few isolated exceptions, there is little forest in the guide area. The most extensive tree-covered area is the Dalchork Forest, north of Lairg, which is a remote man-made plantation of conifers. There are remnants of the natural forests which once covered this land, most notably around sea inlets near Lochinver, Inverkirkaig and Loch Nedd.
Birds are quite plentiful in the summer months – grouse are an obvious example, along with other moorland natives such as curlew and skylark. The characteristic songs of these birds are very atmospheric on a warm spring day in the hills. Birds of prey such as hen harriers, kestrels and owls may be seen, but are less common here than further south.
Along the coast, sea-birds such as guillemot, kittiwake, razorbill, fulmar and puffin, along with various gulls and gannets, abound. There is a bird sanctuary on Handa Island (ferry from Scourie or Tarbet), which is a must for anyone with an interest in ornithology.
Seals are another sight to look out for in coastal areas. Both common seals and the much larger grey seal are quite numerous around the north-west coast, and colonies of them can be seen in sea lochs such as Glencoul and Glendhu, either in the water or basking on the shore.
You may spot other wildlife such as fox, hare, red squirrel, badger, wildcat, otter and various species of vole and shrew. The north-west highlands is the last stronghold of many species which have all but disappeared from the areas further south. Deer are of course plentiful, and their numbers are controlled by an annual cull. Access to many of the far north hills is curtailed if there is ‘stalking’ going on, and it is always a good idea to check before setting out.
Bases
There is no shortage of accommodation available in the far north. The area boasts a multitude of hotels, B&Bs, campsites and self-catering cottages, chalets and hostels. In fact, there is such a wealth of choice that a comprehensive list would fill this book and probably a couple of others too! It is possible to obtain hotel or self-catering accommodation at any time of year, but most campsites are are only open from Easter to the end of September. Check before travelling. The best sources of information are the tourist offices/visitor centres listed in Appendix A.
Below is a summary of the main walking centres and the facilities to be found there. The list is not comprehensive, but short lists of convenient bases are given in the introductions to each area in the walks section of the guide.
Ullapool
This is the largest community in the area. A major fishing and ferry port, the town boasts a number of restaurants, hotels, guest houses and self-catering accommodation, as well as a campsite and youth hostel. Other amenities include a bank with cashpoint, supermarkets, a filling station, an excellent hardware store selling most camping utilities, and even a fish and chip shop!
Ullapool (photo: Andy Walmsley)
Boat trips to the Summer Isles during summer, and a car ferry to Stornoway in the Western Isles, are available.
Four miles (6.6km) north is the excellent campsite at Ardmair, on the shores of Loch Kanaird. This is a clean and well-equipped site with showers, laundry room, shop and restaurant. Chalets are also available for hire. The site has a very short season however: Easter to September at best.
Ullapool makes a good base for the Coigach peaks.
Bonar Bridge
This is a small village at the head of the Dornoch Firth. The iron bridge here replaced Telford's original, which used to carry the main A9 northwards before the building of the new bridge linking Tain and Dornoch.
The village has shops selling provisions, calor gas, films, etc, and a filling station, but no bank. Accommodation is available nearby at Ardgay, or further north at Lairg.
Access to Ledmore junction and thus to the Assynt hills, via Strath Oykell, or to Laxford bridge and the Reay Forest, via Loch Shin, is surprisingly easy from here. Ben Klibreck is also easily reached.
Lairg
This is a slightly larger village than Bonar Bridge with similar facilities. There are chalets for hire in the vicinity, notably at Rogart in Strath Fleet to the east.
Although Lairg, like Bonar Bridge, is on the eastern side of the northern peninsula, it lies close to the main through-routes, and post buses run regularly to various points north and west. It is thus more convenient than you might think as a base for visiting Assynt, Coigach and the Reay Forest, and has the advantage that accommodation on this side is generally cheaper than on the west coast.
Achiltibuie
This is one of the far north's special places. The ‘village’ is little more than a straggling group of houses strung out along the coast at the foot of Ben Mor Coigach and overlooking the Summer Isles, but it has a unique atmosphere: remote – some might say bleak – yet welcoming.
There is a hotel and self-catering cottages in the area, as well as a youth hostel at Acheninver (20 beds) a little to the south (GR043056), and a campsite by the rather exposed beach at Achnahaird (GR015136). Boat trips are available to the Summer Isles (but, appropriately enough, only in summer) – contact Iain McLeod at the post office.
Achiltibuie is located right at the foot of Ben Mor Coigach, and makes a good base for any of the Coigach mountains.
Inverkirkaig
This is a small, scattered, coastal settlement at the head of the tiny Loch Kirkaig. There are self-catering chalets and cottages here and a public telephone box, but not much else. The situation, looking out towards the Western Isles, is superb.
Achmelvich Bay and campsite at Lochinver (photo: Andy Walmsley)
The well-known Achins bookshop and café are situated slightly inland at the start of the path to the Falls of Kirkaig.
Lochinver
A main centre on the north-west coast, Lochinver has all the necessary conveniences of civilisation, such as a bank with cash-point, filling station and two well-stocked grocery stores, as well as hotels, outdoor shop, the Assynt Visitor Centre and a wealth of self-catering accommodation. Baddidaroch, along the north side of Loch Inver, also has a good number of self-catering cottages for hire.
The nearest campsite is at Achmelvich, 3 miles (5km) north by Loch Roe. This is a good, reasonably priced, fairly well-equipped site (open March to September) close to the excellent sandy beach of Achmelvich Bay. There is also a youth hostel (38 beds – open March to September) here.
Stoer
Situated on the picturesque coast road between Lochinver and Kylesku, Stoer is merely a tiny crofting community with a small sandy beach (pleasant in good weather, but usually just bleak) and a post office with limited opening hours. Nearby is the rather basic campsite at Clachtoll (which has an attractive sandy cove). The scenery at Stoer is defaced by ramshackle mobile homes, which are common in the area.
Drumbeg
A slightly larger community than Stoer and rather more attractive, Drumbeg is situated further north along the same road. Its location is elevated, overlooking the rocky shore of Eddrachillis Bay and Oldany Island. There is a parking area with toilets, and a view indicator looking out across the bay with its multiple islands – a picturesque scene in good weather. There is also an hotel and a post office here.
Kylesku
Once an important staging post on the route north, the village of Kylesku is now much quieter. A new bridge (an elegant one, it must be said) means that the village is now bypassed by the A894, which sweeps effortlessly over the narrow Caolas Cumhang and Garbh Eilean to reach the Duartmore Forest. The name Caolas Cumhang means ‘the narrow straight’, and it is from a corruption of this name that the anglicised form, Kylesku, is derived.
Kylesku has its own inn, and boat trips are run from the village up the fjord-like Loch Glencoul to visit the Eas a Chual Aluinn waterfall – Britain's highest at 658ft.
There is also a good choice of accommodation in the vicinity, and this area makes a good base for both the Assynt peaks and also those of the Reay Forest, further north.
Brora
An east coast village, somewhat larger than those above, Brora has most amenities, including campsites, hotels, etc. Its location is rather inconvenient for the main mountains of the far north, but it does have the advantage of being served by the railway.
Helmsdale
Like Brora, Helmsdale is located on the east coast, is serviced by rail, and has a youth hostel and a tourist information office, as well as shops, hotels, etc. It is reasonably convenient for the eastern peaks such as Morven, and could also serve as a base for peaks such as Ben Klibreck if motorised transport is available.
About halfway between Brora and Helmsdale is a campsite (Crakaig Camping – GR960097). The site is basic and low priced, and is in an attractive setting by the beach at Lothbeg Point.
Scourie
This is a pleasant crofting village built in a natural bowl among low rocky hills and overlooking the sheltered Scourie Bay. There is a friendly hotel, expensive filling station, well-stocked provisions store/post office, and a number of self-catering cottages nearby. Scourie also has the best campsite in the far north. Reasonably priced, the site is clean and well laid out with terraced pitches overlooking the sea, and has a relaxed atmosphere. Free hot showers are available, along with a laundry room, a restaurant, and an affable owner who will allow dogs, provided they are exercised off the site (open from Easter to end of September – occasionally at other times if there is demand).
A boat runs (weather permitting) from the pier to the Handa Island Bird Sanctuary.
Scourie is a convenient base for the Reay Forest and the far north-west.
Rhiconich
Little more than a hotel with a few surrounding crofts and cottages, Rhiconich is the last outpost on the road to the north coast, and marks the junction with the branch road out to Kinlochbervie and Shiegra.
The hotel would make a good base for ascents of Arkle or Foinaven.
Dunbeath
This is a small, scattered village, located on the east coast in the far north-eastern corner of the guide area. Dunbeath has a camp site and a hotel, and is a convenient base for the exploration of the Morven group of hills.
Kinlochbervie
This is a major fishing port on the north-west coast, comparable to Ullapool in importance. Kinlochbervie is situated on a narrow neck of land between two sheltered bays – an ideal location for a port. It has a lonelier atmosphere than Ullapool, but does offer a range of accommodation and is conveniently situated in relation to the great peaks of Foinaven and Arkle.
Nearby is a lovely beach at Oldshoremore (campsites here and at Balshrick) and the start of the path to Sandwood Bay, one of the jewels of the coast.
Durness
Bleakly exposed atop rugged sea cliffs, Durness is at the northernmost point of the A838 road. The village itself consists only of a few scattered houses and a couple of shops, but in the vicinity are a number of attractions including a good campsite, a youth hostel, some spectacular beaches, the celebrated Cave of Smoo (with hotel) and the Balnakeil Craft Village. The latter is housed in converted old army buildings, which are numerous hereabouts.
Tongue
Tongue is an unremarkable village, clustered around a sharp road bend near the junction of the A838 and A836. It has two hotels, a youth hostel (on the shore of the Kyle of Tongue), a very small campsite and a post office.
The Kyle of Tongue Crossing (more of a causeway than a bridge) has bypassed the former road, which took a circuitous route around the southern shore of the Kyle. However, the old road is still worth driving for its superb views of Ben Loyal.
Tongue makes a convenient base for Ben Loyal, Ben Hope, Ben Stumanadh and Ben Klibreck.
Getting There
Although situated in the farthest corner of the British mainland, the far north is not as difficult to reach as might be imagined. Excellent road links make Ullapool (for example) as accessible as many popular Scottish locations further south. For the southern Sassenach, the journey to Skye or Torridon can take just as long as that to the far north.
The A9, although not the most scenic of Scottish roads, makes for easy travel to Inverness, and links to Lairg, Helmsdale or Ullapool from there are excellent. For those who cannot face the drive, there are internal flights available to Inverness and Wick, or you could even let the train take the strain – the line meanders all the way up to Wick via Lairg, Helmsdale and Forsinard.
Once you are much north of Inverness, Royal Mail post buses provide the main system of public transport. These run regularly between all post offices in the far north, and a timetable is available from the Royal Mail on request. Note that, despite the name, you should not expect these post buses to actually be ‘buses’. You are just as likely to find yourself travelling in a small van or estate car as in a purpose-built bus.
Summer Isles ferry
Roads within the Area
With the notable exception of the Parph and Cape Wrath, road access within in the area is very good, but not too good. You are never far from a road in this area, and all the peaks are fairly easily accessible, but there are a number of places where it is possible to get away from the car-borne tourist and feel the ‘wilderness experience’. The inner reaches of Glen Dubh and Glen Coul (east of Kylesku), and the middle of the Inverpolly Forest (west of Cul Mor), spring immediately to mind.
Although the road network is quite comprehensive, many of the roads are single track, and outside the months of June, July and August they see little traffic. In early spring or in autumn it is possible to drive for miles along these roads without seeing a single vehicle. This is quite a contrast to areas south of Inverness, and it is one of the great charms of the far north.
If a winter trip is planned, it is worth remembering that road closures due to snow can occur in these parts, and in particularly bad weather it may be impossible to access anything beyond the main trunk routes.
Access to individual peaks is covered in the relevant route description in the walks section of the guide, but below is a brief description of each of the main access routes.
The view south from Achiltibuie
A835 from Ullapool to Ledmore
17 miles (27km)
Winter access: usually kept open
An excellent two-lane trunk road giving good views of the Coigach peaks (especially the jutting prow of Sgurr an Fhidhleir). Long straights and easy bends mean fast progress. Knockanrock viewpoint and information centre at GR188090.
From Drumrunie (GR165054) to Achiltibuie
- with branches to Reiff and Achnahaird
15 miles (24km) excluding branches
Winter access: doubtful under snow
Unclassified single-track road, but easy. Passes the bases of Cul Beag and Stac Pollaidh (also passing the turning to Lochinver – see below), then descends to a junction at the south end of Achnahaird Bay. Right leads to the Achnahaird campsite and Rubha Mor (Rubha Coigeach); left leads south to Achiltibuie. A short branch road leads norh-west to Reiff, also linking with the Achnahaird road.
From Badnagyle (GR063113) to Lochinver
- ‘The Mad Little Road of Sutherland’, 11 miles (18km)
Winter access: best avoided in winter conditions
Unclassified single-track road. Starts easily, but becomes extremely tortuous. Gives spectacular glimpses of the Inverpolly peaks and Suilven as it traverses the lumpy moor west of Loch Sionascaig.
After wriggling around an inlet of Enard Bay, the road cuts across Rubha na Breige to the River Kirkaig (start of path to Falls of Kirkaig and Suilven, café and bookstore) and shortly enters Inverkirkaig (self-catering accommodation, telephone). A further climb takes the road over to Lochinver.
A837 from Invershin (GR574966) to Ledmore
26 miles (42km)
Winter access: rarely closed
Single-track trunk road. This is the main access from the east to Assynt and Coigach, so is usually kept open even in snowy weather. There are a few very short two-lane stretches, but these are best regarded as extended passing places. The road begins in rural semi-wooded terrain, then climbs gradually into open moorland. Good view of Suilven ahead as Ledmore is approached.
A837 from Ledmore (GR248124) to Lochinver
19 miles (30km)
Winter access: kept open in all but the most severe blizzards
Two-lane trunk road. After joining with the A835 at the Ledmore junction, the A837 becomes an excellent two-lane road. The road crosses the Kirkaig/Inver watershed then descends to Inchnadamph (private lodge and hotel with petrol pump, expensive). After passing the turning to Kylesku at Skiag Bridge, the road skirts along the shore of Loch Assynt to Lochinver.
B869 Assynt Coast Road, GR099235 (near Lochinver) to GR232314 (near Kylesku)
21 miles (34km)
Winter access: impassable under snow
This unclassified single-track road is considerably ‘madder’ than the ‘Mad Little Road of Sutherland’ (see above), with numerous climbs, descents and blind brows. The first section is enclosed and wooded, passing the branch to Achmelvich (youth hostel and campsite) before climbing into open country (excellent viewpoint on the left at GR078254). After passing the bleak campsite and small sandy beaches of Clachtoll and Stoer, the road swings inland to cross the neck of the Stoer headland to Clashnessie (branch road on the left leads to the Stoer lighthouse).
Beyond Clashnessie (sandy bay, ugly static caravans) the road crosses more moorland to reach Drumbeg (parking, toilets, hotel) in an elevated position overlooking Oldany Island, then descends to Nedd by the shore of the charming Loch Nedd, heavily screened by trees.
From here to the main road near Kylesku is the most demanding section. The road heads east to the A894 via an arduous series of ups and downs (the descent into, and climb out of, Gleann Ardbhair being particularly untamed), with glimpses of Quinag's impressive northern buttresses on the right.
A894 from Skiag Bridge to Laxford Bridge
23 miles (37km)
Winter access: usually kept open
Two-lane trunk road. The initial section, over the pass between Quinag and Glasven, has some tight and bumpy bends, but after Kylesku Bridge the road smoothes out and makes easy progress to Scourie (campsite, restaurant, hotel, post office, toilets). Continuing easily, the road passes a turning on the left to Foindle, Fanagmore and Tarbet (Handa Island ferry) before arriving at Laxford Bridge (no facilities).
Arkle and Loch Stack
A838 from Colabol junction (GR573099) to Laxford Bridge
34 miles (55km)
Winter access: usually kept open
Single-track A-road. Just north of Lairg on the road heading for Altnaharra and Tongue (A836), a left turn near the small group of buildings called Colaboll takes you onto the A838 to Laxford Bridge.
The A838 actually continues beyond Laxford Bridge to Tongue (description below), but a traveller between Lairg and Tongue would use the more direct A836.
Although single track, this road is open and quite straight, giving easy passage. The 17-mile (27km) shore of Loch Shin leads to a gentle ascent to the Loch More watershed, passing Loch Merkland and West Merkland (start of Ben Hee ascent) en route.
From the watershed (start of Beinn Leoid ascent) the road descends easily to skirt the southern shore of Loch More, with tremendous views of Ben Stack and Arkle ahead.
Beyond Achfary (routes to Arkle, Fionaven and the Sabhals), the road skirts along between Ben Stack and Loch Stack to eventually meet the two-lane A894 at Laxford Bridge.
Loch Eribol
A838 continuation, Laxford Bridge to Tongue
48 miles (77km)
Winter access: can be closed north of Rhiconich in severe weather
A mixture of two-lane and single-track A-road. Turning right at Laxford Bridge (the Scourie-Rhiconich road has priority) the A838 continues as a single-track road for about 300m then joins a smooth two-lane highway, like the A894, which then swoops its way to Rhiconich (hotel, petrol). A branch road (B801) runs out to Kinlochbervie from here, continuing as a single-track minor road as far as Sheigra, with a further branch to Oldshoremore. Sheigra is the closest approach by road to Cape Wrath, and the path to Sandwood Bay begins near here at Balshrick (campsite nearby).
North of Rhiconich, the A838 becomes single track and climbs up to Gualin House, with Foinaven towering to the right. Various small parking places along here provide starting points for Foinaven. Gualin House is now bypassed on its north-west side by a short new section of two-lane road, but single track takes over again as the road descends past Carbreck (start of Cranstackie ascent) to Kyle of Durness.
Just before Durness two-lane road reappears (at the junction with the short branch to the Cape Wrath Hotel and ferry) and this leads into the village itself. From Durness (hotels, 40-bed youth hostel, campsite, toilets, shop, tourist information) another short branch road leads out to the Balnakeil sand dunes, passing the interesting Balnakeil Craft Village en route.
The main road continues along the north coast (past Smoo Cave and various sandy beaches) before turning south to skirt Loch Eriboll (single track again).
After Eriboll, two-lane road climbs abruptly over a ridge to descend rapidly to a bridge at the head of Loch Hope (junction with minor road from Altnaharra). Another climb now leads up and over The Moine to the Kyle of Tongue.
The old road (single track) loops south around the head of the Kyle (still worth driving for its intimate views of Ben Loyal), but the new road spears straight across the shallow kyle on the Kyle of Tongue Crossing, which is more of a causeway than a bridge and leads quickly to the village of Tongue. The village has hotels, a basic campsite, shops, toilets and a 40-bed youth hostel (on the shore of the Kyle, next to the crossing).
A836 from Bonar Bridge to Bettyhill
59 miles (95km)
Winter access: likely to be closed in snowy weather
Remote, mainly single-track A-road. A fast stretch of two-lane road leads from Bonar Bridge to Lairg (all amenities), but the road then becomes single track and remains so all the way to Tongue, a distance of 36 miles (58km). However, the route is mainly over quite open terrain and progress is easy.
Kyle of Tongue crossing and Ben Loyal
Undulating through plantations of conifers (Dalchork Forest), the road gradually gains height to pass the Crask Inn in open country just before the watershed. The road then descends into the shallow trough of Strath Vagastie (start of Ben Klibreck ascent) to eventually reach the scattered buildings at Altnaharra (hotel, post office) at the head of Loch Naver.
This is an important crossroads. The B873 heads east from here through Strath Naver, making a shorter route to Bettyhill (see below), while to the west a minor road goes via Alltnacaillich, at the foot of Ben Hope, to emerge on the A838 at Hope Lodge.
The A836 continues north, with Ben Loyal in view ahead, to traverse the west shore of Loch Loyal (Beinn Stumanadh group overlooking the opposite shore). At the north end of the loch, the road climbs moderately over a minor watershed, then descends to Tongue with improving views to the west.
Just south of the village, a branch road on the L provides a short-cut to Tongue village centre and the west, but the main road continues north to meet the A838 just above the village. The Durness-Bettyhill route has priority at this junction, but the road number A836 continues, now two lane (with two short stretches of single track), to Bettyhill and the border of the guide area.
B873 from Altnaharra junction to A836 near Bettyhill (GR708575)
20 miles (32km)
Winter access: sheltered, so usually open
Single track B-road. Commences with a scenic traverse of Loch Naver's north shore (many picturesque parking places) before turning north into Strath Naver – a very colourful and pleasing valley. The road makes easy progress throughout, passing a junction with the B871 to Kinbrace at Syre (11 miles from Altnaharra), and reaches the A836 at Leckfurin, just south of Bettyhill.
It is worth mentioning that the River Naver carries quite a large volume of water and has only easy rapids. To the author's untrained eye it would appear to be a prime candidate for kayaking or river rafting. From Loch Naver to Invernaver (the mouth of the river) is a distance of some 16 miles (26km).
Minor road from Altnaharra to Hope Lodge via Alltnacaillich
20 miles (32km)
Winter access: often closed by snow
Single-track road. Whilst having no major difficulties, this road is narrow and, in parts, rough. It is the most convenient access road for the ascent of Ben Hope. At Allnabad, 8½ miles or 14km from Altnaharra, is the junction with the unsurfaced Bealach nam Mierleach, or Robber's Pass, a possible mountain bike route, passing Gobernuisgach Lodge and emerging at West Merkland (start of Ben Hee ascent). A branch route from this goes via Glen Golly to Strath Dionard (by Foinaven) with a further branch path crossing the Arkle/Meall Horn col to reach the bothy at Lone, on the shore of Loch Stack. These last two routes are, however, not mountain-bike friendly, judging by the anti-cycling notices erected by the estate.
East Coast Road (A9) from Dornoch Bridge to Dunbeath
47 miles (75km)
Winter access: always kept open
A major two-lane trunk road, the A9 can be busy in summer, but usually makes for fast progress up the east coast. It should be said that this is the most scenic stretch of the A9, the section beyond Helmsdale having some steep climbs and descents with excellent sea views.
Am Buachaille and Sandwood Bay, Route 62
Using the Guide
The walks in this book are grouped firstly under geographical area headings, and secondly under mountain massifs. The majority of walks described are ascents of peaks or mountain traverses, and as such they are quite exacting. They involve rough terrain, and the text of the guide assumes the reader has a reasonable level of physical fitness and some experience of mountainous country.
Sketch maps are provided throughout the guide, but these are intended only to provide an overview of the route. Anyone undertaking the routes should use Ordnance Survey Landranger maps in conjunction with the book (see ‘Maps’, below). Details are given at the start of each route of the relevant sketch map and Landranger map.
It is difficult to attempt to grade the routes and estimate a reasonable time allowance for their completion. Grading can be a very subjective thing. For example a super-fit hill-runner may regard the rough ascent of Arkle as an easy outing, while an unfit person would find even the walk to the Eas a Chual Aluinn waterfall ‘strenuous’. Similarly, time allowances are affected by differences in an individual's level of fitness or approach (lightweight or comprehensively equipped), competence on the terrain, the weather and a multitude of other factors.
For this reason neither grades nor times are given for the routes, and instead figures are provided for distance (measured from OS Landranger maps) and overall height gain (calculated from the same maps). Any competent hill-walker should be able to estimate the time required based on these figures, the route description and their own individual factors. A note of caution, though – Scottish terrain often means that more time is required than for a route of similar distance/ascent in, for example, the English Lake District, and it is also worth remembering that the distances quoted are map-measured kilometres, which are often a little shorter than kilometres actually walked on the ground. If you are not experienced on Scottish routes, add an allowance – say 20% – onto your estimated time. All the figures provided for distance and height gain are for round trips (returning to starting point) unless otherwise stated.
Maps
Ordnance Survey Landranger sheets 9, 10, 15, 16 and 17 amply cover most of the area of the guide, but sheet 19 is required for Ullapool and Ardmair. The John o'Groats corner of the far north is covered on sheets 11 and 12, but this is outside the area covered by this guide. Visitors to the far north should be equipped with these maps, and the route descriptions in the book are designed to be used in conjunction with the relevant OS maps.
Essential Equipment
When travelling or hill-walking in the far north, the equipment requirements are much the same as for any other part of Britain.
Waterproof clothing is an obvious essential at any time of year – preferably made from a breathable material, as summer conditions can often consist of relatively warm but wet weather, which can be very sticky in a non-breathable cagoule.
For any serious walking on these hills, my recommendation would be for leather boots with gaiters, unless the weather and terrain are very dry (rare – especially the latter). Fabric boots with a waterproof membrane tend to be very hot and are not as durable as leather ones. If wearing lightweight fabric boots or if hill-running, expect to have wet feet for much of the time!
