Читать книгу All Things Paper - Ann Martin - Страница 7

CHAPTER 1

Home Décor

Eye-catching projects to beautify your desk, dining table, and walls.

Candle Luminaries

by Kristen Magee

These pretty paper luminaries are a very easy and inexpensive way to add a little pizzazz to your table for a special occasion or just because. Make a few to complement other decorative accessories, or make many and group them together to create a glowing tablescape.

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Small glass or cylinder vase

Copy paper white

Pencil

Measuring tape

Ruler

Scissors

Decorative edge scissors (scalloped and clouds) and/or pinking shears

Hole punches a variety of sizes

Tape runner or double-sided tape

Tealight candle or battery operated tealight

Paper trimmer optional

Kristen Magee

A freelance designer who loves to craft and cook in her spare time, Kristen shares her love of paper as the editor of Paper Crave papercrave.com and documents her craft and kitchen exploits at Domestifluff domestifluff.com

Why Paper?

I love working with paper because it’s such a versatile and accessible medium. There’s nothing more relaxing to me after a long day in front of the computer than sitting down with a few sheets of paper to fold, score, and cut to my heart’s content.

HOW TO MAKE THE CANDLE LUMINARIES

STEP 1 Measure the circumference and height of the container with a measuring tape. Add approximately ½ inch (13 mm) to the circumference so there will be enough paper to overlap when it is wrapped around the container.

STEP 2 Use a pencil to mark the length and width on a piece of copy paper. Draw corresponding lines with the aid of a ruler. Use scissors or a paper trimmer to cut the paper.

STEP 3 Cut along one edge of the paper with decorative edge scissors or pinking shears. Be sure to stay as close to the edge as possible, using it as a cutting guide.

STEP 4 Pierce a hole with a small hole punch in the center of each scallop or pinked V. It may be helpful to dot the centers with a pencil before using the punch. This allows for more precise placement.

STEP 5 Use a larger punch to make a row of evenly spaced holes along the bottom edge of the paper.

STEP 6 Apply a strip of double-sided tape to one end of the paper. Wrap the paper snugly around the container, overlapping the ends. Try different papers—vellum, parchment, or tissue—for a variety of looks.

Phone Book Letter Holder

by Allison Patrick

At least once a year a stack of phone books arrives in my building lobby where they languish for a few weeks until someone bundles them up for the recycling pile. In this Internet age you might not need old fashioned phone books for looking up information, but they can be put to good use and help with organization at the same time, as this pretty mail sorter demonstrates. It’s the perfect accessory for a front hallway or desk. Not only is it eco-friendly to use an otherwise discarded material, but the project cost is low because the phone book is free. The petal design looks elegant even when not in use, and I love the bright pop of colorful ribbons that can be chosen to match the color scheme of any room. This project is not only fun and recycles wasted paper but is also functional and decorative. The finished letter holder measures 7 x 4 inches (18 x 10 cm). Because the phone book is divided in half and then cut into strip sections, quite a few letter holders can be made from just one phone book!

Allison Patrick

A recent graduate with a Master of Architecture degree from Columbia University, Allison Patrick began designing eco-friendly housewares and lights in 2010. Selling both in person and via Etsy shops, Zipper 8 Design and Zipper 8 Lighting, allows her to fund all those crazy and creative projects she wants to try, while following a more eclectic path professionally. Her recent work experience includes an internship in the exhibition design department at The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum and teaching lower school science in New York City. Looking for a place to showcase the more random craft projects she undertakes, Allison started her blog, The 3 Rs: Reduce, Reuse, Redecorate. She features projects for the home that are based on unusual and eco-friendly materials, often bringing new life to otherwise overlooked items. Her work has been featured on numerous blogs and in magazines, as well as on the cover of Illuminate, Hannah Nunn's 2012 contemporary craft lighting book.

Website: zipper81ighting.com

Blog: the3rsblog.wordpress.com

Why Paper?

Paper is one of my favorite crafting materials. Whether bought new or reused from another source, paper is inexpensive and accessible. Even if I buy fine quality paper for an intended project, I can first practice on a much less expensive kind. Paper is also more versatile than almost any material. It can be a thin, flat sheet or with just a few creases, transformed into a complex, three-dimensional shape. Layer it to create texture or wrap it around something like a skin. And everyone has access to paper no matter where they are—grab a newspaper off the street or a sheet from a printer. The most amazing creations can be made with just a bit of imagination, allowing the mind of the artist to shine through.”

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Phone book Choose one with a fairly small width and length because a larger phone book may cause the loops to be floppy. The one used here measured 6.75 x 8.5 inches (17 x 22 cm) and was 1.75 inches (5 cm) thick.

Colorful ribbon 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) wide by approximately 60 inches (152 cm) long

Corrugated cardboard

Cutting mat

Scissors

Scrap paper

Paper clips

Glue gun with glue sticks

Metal ruler A metal ruler is always better than a plastic or wooden one when working with a cutting blade because the metal can’t be accidentally sliced.

Extendable cutting blade I use Olfa; X-ACTO makes them too.

HOW TO MAKE THE LETTER HOLDER

STEP 1 Open the phone book at its midpoint and cut through the center of the spine with a cutting blade or scissors to make equal halves. Working with one of the halves, cut a section of pages across the top or bottom that is the same width as the ribbon. Remove the remaining cover piece.

STEP 2 Cut a 3 ½-inch (9 cm) piece of corrugated cardboard that is the same width as the ribbon. Glue the phone book spine to the center of the cardboard piece.

STEP 4 Pull six sections to the left, leaving one section to lean toward the right. Squeeze hot glue into the divide and insert the end of the ribbon. Take the single section (number 1) and roll it tightly outward until it reaches the cardboard. Holding the roll in place, squeeze glue onto the cardboard near the right edge, and carefully glue the ribbon so that it holds this section in its tight roll.

STEP 3 Use scrap paper as bookmarks to subdivide the phone book segment into seven sections. The five center sections should be twice as thick as the two outer sections. Although the following may sound complicated at first, an easy way to do this is to divide the phone book into four equal sections and then subdivide each quarter into three sections, resulting in twelve equal sections. Then use a single subdivided piece for each of the outer two sections, but use two of the subdivided pieces for each of the center five sections. Once the sections are subdivided, keep them separate by paper clipping each one as a unit until it is time to roll it.

STEP 5 Turn the unit around and roll the other exterior section (number 7) into a tight, outward-facing roll to match the first section. Hold it in place while squeezing glue into the seam between the two sections (numbers 6 and 7) and press the ribbon in place, using a ruler to tuck it closely to the spine.

STEP 6 Take the next section (number 6) and subdivide it into three pieces. Curve the two pieces inward toward one another, using the third piece on the left to wrap over and around them.

Tips!

To make the cut through the depth of the phone book section, hold the ruler down very tightly and start slicing through the pages with a sharp, extendable cutting blade. Cut slowly over and over, trying not to slice through too much at once. Keep a firm grip on the ruler so it will hold the bulk of the book in place, resulting in an even cut. The slice doesn’t have to be perfect, however, because once the letter holder has been rolled, the imperfections won’t be noticeable.

The section that is being sliced off will slide away from the cut line so it is easier to see. Continue slicing and extending the blade until the book section is sliced completely through.

STEP 7 Once again squeeze glue into the seam between the two sections (numbers 5 and 6) and use the ruler to press the ribbon into place.

STEP 8 Repeat Steps 6 and 7 for the next section.

STEP 9 Take the center section (number 4) and divide it into two pieces. Curve the left piece toward the center, then curve the right piece over and around the left piece, bringing the ribbon with it. Glue the ribbon into the seam between the two sections (numbers 3 and 4).

STEP 10 Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the final two sections.

STEP 11 After the ribbon has been glued over the last of these sections, it will be back at the first tight roll that was glued in place, and where the ribbon began between sections 1 and 2. Cut off any remaining ribbon close to the binding.

Tip!

In lieu of cutting your phone book with a craft blade, check with your local office supply store. It may have an industrial paper cutter that can slice through any book with ease.

Crepe Paper Lilacs

by Jenny Jafek-Jones

Spring comes to my studio in a riot of color; the faded browns and grays of winter disappear in a matter of days. A little rain and sunshine together make the clay of the red dirt road vibrant again, and emerald clumps of clover cause the colors to pop even more.

Many of my favorite people live in other states and big cities, so my local flora doesn’t represent spring to them in quite the same manner. When I send them flowers to celebrate the season, I go with a classic: lilacs. They’re gorgeous.

Many people associate lilacs with childhood memories and family time, but for me, lilacs also signify the renewing aspect of springtime. In the Victorian language of flowers, they represent youthful innocence and the first emotions of love.

I realize that the incredible fragrance of lilacs is part of their charm. The trade-off in making them from paper is a good one though: no sneezing and sniffling if you have allergies, no fighting off bees, and the flowers will bloom when watering is forgotten.

As the recipient, you’re assured that someone thought enough of you to put everything aside for a couple of hours in order to make you something beautiful. As the maker, you put a little of yourself into a project that can literally bring someone joy for years to come. That’s a reward of its own.

Tips!

Doublette brand crepe paper is sold in folds and typically features two shades of a color, one on each side. Each fold measures approximately 10 x 48 inches (25 x 122 cm). A single fold of each color (green and lavender) is more than adequate for the project.

Sunrise brand wrapped wire is sold in packs of 25 and measures 14 inches (36 cm) in length; wrapped wire at createforless.com is sold in packs of 20 and measures 18 inches (46 cm) in length. A single pack is adequate for the project, although two wouldn’t be a bad idea.

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Doublette crepe paper pale/olive green and lavender/pink lilac (castleintheair.biz)

Floral wire #22 green wrapped (budget version - createforless.com; best quality -Sunrise floral wire via amazon.com)

Glue I swear by Crafter’s Pick “The Ultimate!” and transfer it to a fine-tip glue bottle for controlled application. You may use your favorite brand of glue, but from someone who uses glue ten hours a day and counts on it to make a living, go with the Crafter’s Pick.

Scissors I like Fiskars 5” Softouch Spring Action.

Wire cutters

Mini binder clips a dozen or so is adequate

Petal pattern (page 109) photocopy at least 9 patterns onto plain paper for easy snipping

Jenny Jafek-Jones

The gardener for the crimson poppy forgets to water her houseplants, and like her mother, was not born with a green thumb. To compensate, she spends hours tending and trimming ordinary paper until it blooms into delicate petals and leaves. The beauty and attention to detail that hallmark her exquisite paper flowers has been recognized in BRIDES, Paper Runway, and Southern Wedding magazines, as well as numerous wedding and paper-related websites. Paper flowers from the crimson poppy were featured in celebrity gift lounges and swag bags for the 2012 Golden Globes and Academy Awards nominees, presenters, and attendees.

Jenny resides in with her family and eighteen pair of scissors in Dallas, Texas. Her paper flowers enchant recipients around the globe.

Website: thecrimsonpoppy.com

Blog: thecrimsonpoppy.tumblr.com

Why Paper?

The crimson poppy and I have come a long way in the last few years. When I remarried in May of 2009, I decided I’d tackle the flowers myself by using the Internet as a how-to guide. I came across kusudama flowers that bring a lovely, whimsical effect to a wedding, but I preferred more realistic paper flowers. During the next six months I broadened my knowledge through floral punch art and Martha Stewart paper flower kits, and took the advice of friends and family to start selling the cards and decorated items I’d created, thus the crimson poppy. The fire for perfectly realistic paper flowers that wouldn’t droop or wilt was lit. While selling at local craft shows and our small-town crafters’ mall, I searched for patterns, learned more about shaping paper, and took apart fresh flowers to create templates. I still like to play with whimsical flowers for cards and wedding favors, but my passion is handcrafting incredibly realistic paper flowers.

I love making a connection with my customers, whether we’re finding the right flowers for an arrangement to gift or building a work-of-art bridal bouquet that fulfills dreams held since childhood. The current work-in-progress for tcp is “make your own extraordinary paper flower” kits, about which I’m very excited. It’s wonderful to bring a little beauty into someone else’s day! I’m excited to say that I no longer have to balance a “day job” with my passion for paper flowers; a reorganization at the office provided the opportunity to just do it, and I jumped in totally unprepared. I wanted the freedom to be creative and still attend my daughter’s Friday morning school assemblies before the opportunity was gone. Making paper flowers is a dream come true. From the crimson poppy to you, best wishes. May you bloom and grow!

HOW TO MAKE THE CREPE PAPER LILACS

STEP 1a Clip the scalloped strip pattern to the lavender/pink lilac crepe paper. Fold another layer of crepe paper beneath the first, removing and replacing mini binder clips one at a time to secure the pattern to both layers.

STEP 1b Repeat for a total of three layers, which will be cut simultaneously.

STEP 2 Cut a strip of folded crepe paper that is approximately ¼ inch (6 mm) wider than the pattern piece.

Tips!

Crepe paper has too much stretch to cut with scallop scissors, rotary cutters, and cutting machines. Regular scissors and a pattern are all that work.

Gathering the strip at step 4 makes it much easier to gather around the wire later. It’s also a lot faster to gather the entire strip than each individual floret.

STEP 3a Cut out the pattern shape by snipping into the space between the petals from one direction, then come back up the row from the other end, leaving a pointed, triangular tip.

STEP 3b Round off the points; super-fast and easy!

STEP 4 Once the paper strips have been cut, remove the clips. Gently clasp one end of a strip between thumb and forefinger. Starting an inch (2.5 cm) or so from the clasped end, use the other hand to push the paper into a gathered fold. Repeat for the length of the strip, using the thumb and forefinger that are clasping the end to hold the gathered portion of the paper strip.

STEP 5 Lots of little flowers will be needed, so unfurl the strip and snip into it, making straight cuts halfway across the width between the first three rounded tops, then cut all the way through the paper strip after the fourth. Individual petals should look like those in the background of the photo. Repeat until there are at least 120 of the 4-round petals; I typically use 300 per lilac.

STEP 6 Use wire cutters to snip three pieces of wire, each approximately 2 inches (5 cm) in length, and a fourth measuring 3 inches (7.6 cm).

STEP 7a Squeeze a very thin bead of glue along the bottom of a petal; the amount needed as shown in the photo is exaggerated for easier viewing, so go easy!

STEP 7b Place one of the wire pieces in the glue at the far end of the petal. If you’re left-handed, the end opposite the one shown in the photo might be more comfortable…whichever works best is fine.

STEP 7c Gather and pinch the base, wrapping the petal around the wire. Gathering is important to ensure the petal sections stay distinct and separate.

STEP 7d The final petal edge will overlap the first just a bit to secure it.

STEP 7e Use a fingernail or the edge of a closed pair of scissors to gently pull each petal piece outward. The motion should be similar to curling ribbon over a scissors blade. Repeat step 7 for the remaining three lengths of wire.

STEP 8 Use scissors to cut a narrow strip about ½ inch (13 mm) wide, across the grain of the folded green doublette crepe paper.

Tips!

Using both shades of the Doublette paper when making individual blooms will create subtle depth and additional color in the finished lilac.

If lilacs in a single color are preferred, be sure to put the glue on the same side (shade) of the Doublette paper for each individual bloom.

STEP 9 Apply a thin bead of glue to the green paper strip. Again, the amount of glue shown in the photo is exaggerated so it can be seen clearly; start with half as much for best results.

STEP 10a Gather four blooms together with the longest wire protruding from the bottom of the bunch. The tops should be somewhat level with one another, but not perfectly so.

STEP 10b Place the end of the paper strip behind the wires, about halfway down the smaller lengths. Make one loop around the group of wires to secure them, and angle the green strip downward on a diagonal.

STEP 10c Continue wrapping; a gentle, constant pull on the paper and the downward diagonal will create a smooth texture and a spiral wrap where each pass barely overlaps the previous paper width. I hold the paper strip between my right thumb and forefinger and pull gently, turning the entire bundle with my left hand.

STEP 10d Wrap the green strip just past the end of the longest wire, cut it, and pinch the glued paper to complete the wrap. Congratulations! There is now one small bunch of lilac blooms. It takes practice, but after making three or four bunches, perfect ones will most likely be made in half the time. Make at least 26 finished bunches. The more that are made, the fuller the finished lilac will be. I typically use 75 bunches per lilac.

STEP 11 Use green paper and glue to wrap two of the wrapped 4-bloom bunches together. This wrap shouldn’t be perfect or run the full length of the stems; just one or two passes around the middle of the bundles to secure them is fine. Repeat with the remaining bundles.

STEP 12a Make the central stem: wrap a length of 22 gauge wire in green paper in the same manner as the small lilac bundles. Starting about an inch (2.5 cm) from one end, wrap the entire length. When the far end is reached, continue just past the tip of the wire.

STEP 12b While the green paper strip is extended, add an extra dab of glue and fold the paper back onto the wire in a straight line. This will create a fold in the green strip similar to that of a flat sheet at the foot of a bed or gift wrap at the corner of a square package.

STEP 12c Place a thumb over this area to secure it and return to spiral wrapping. Be sure the first circle of wrap covers part of the fold, binding it to the earlier layer of stem wrap.

STEP 12d Continue wrapping the length of wire and cover the other end. When finished, there should be two layers of stem wrap and covered ends on the wire.

STEP 12e Fold the wrapped length of wire in half and pinch it so the two halves rest flat against one another. (The photo shows the loop for illustrative purposes only.) Use a strip of green paper and the spiral wrapping technique to secure the halves to one another, creating a sturdy central stem for the lilac.

STEP 13a More stem wrap; you’re going to be an expert at this! Use a ½-inch (13 mm) green paper strip to attach one of the combined lilac bundles securely to the top of the central stem.

STEP 13b Attach another bundle of lilacs to the stem with the green strip; this one should go on the left side of the central stem and below the first.

STEP 13c Repeat on the right side, creating a triangular shape.

STEP 13d Turn the stem 90 degrees to the right and add a lilac bundle to the empty spaces on the left and right.

STEP 13e Repeat with the remaining lilac bundles, adding them to the central stem just below the previous level. The goal is to add lilac bundles in a fashion that covers the central stem and all of the wrappings, creating a gently rounded cone of blooms.

STEP 14 Optional: I cut a few leaf shapes from the green paper, glued a 3 inch (7.6 cm) piece of wire to the bottom ½-inch (13 mm) of the leaf, then pinched and held the leaf around the wire for a moment while the glue set to hide it within. The leaves were added to the base of the lilac to help cover the final stem wrappings and lilac bundles. Feel free to add a few leaves to the bloom while wrapping the central stem, leaving about ½ inch (13 mm) of each leaf stem outside the wrap. This allows the leaf to be bent down and out from the lilacs.

STEP 15a The stem wrap will be a bit bulky at the points where the lilac bundles were attached. Use the scissors point to make tiny snips into the green wrap at these places.

STEP 15b Use the fine-tip glue bottle to add the smallest drop of glue possible to the snipped area. I’ve exaggerated the glue for illustrative purposes again; the amount of glue in the photo is four or five times more than should be used.

STEP 15c Use a fingernail or toothpick to press the paper ends into the glue.

All done! Depending on how many bundles of blooms were made, the flower may look like this “just beginning to bloom” lavender lilac stem, or like the very full white lilacs on the right in a custom wedding bouquet.

Now that you’ve conquered your first lilac, make another. You’ll be amazed at the difference in time it takes to make a second one, not to mention how much happier you’ll be with the end result. For your third bloom, grab a friend or two and work together!

Tiered Garland Ornament

by Patricia Zapata

The repetition of geometric shapes is an ideal way to create visual impact. Trying this with an ornament is simple and it’s easy to duplicate as many times as you wish. The tutorial calls for six layers of paper discs, but make more to transform it into an eye-catching garland. Variations in color and texture make the possibilities innumerable.

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Tracing paper

Pencil

Cardstock white, 2 sheets, 8½ x 11 inches (22 x 28 cm)

Disc template (page 109)

Scissors or craft knife

Self-healing cutting mat

Piercer or pushpin

Quilling tool

Ruler

Glue

Twine or embroidery floss

Sewing needle optional

Patricia Zapata

Patricia is a graphic designer and crafter who lives in Texas with her husband and two children. She runs A Little Hut, a paper goods business, and writes a well-known craft blog by the same name. Patricia is the author of Home, Paper, Scissors: Decorative Paper Accessories for the Home (Potter Craft, 2009) and a contributor to several design and craft books. Her work has been featured in a variety of online publications such as Craft, Décor8, Design Sponge, Apartment Therapy, and many others.

Website: alittlehut.com

Why Paper?

I’ve been drawn to paper for as long as I can remember. I collected pads when I was a little girl and there was nothing as exciting as a new notebook. As a graphic designer, I renewed my focus on paper because it was always available to me and because it was an easy way to quickly practice and enjoy some handcrafting techniques. I think the thing that keeps me interested in working with paper is its flexible, yet delicate, quality—there’s always something new to try and explore.

Tips!

Consider the use of this ornament as a stacked group on a long strand or hung individually as a mobile. Alternating colors of paper would add another level of interest. Additional ideas would be to use discs that diminish or grow in size on each level and/or use beads instead of quilled strips of paper between the discs.

HOW TO MAKE THE TIERED GARLAND ORNAMENT

STEP 1 Trace the disc template onto tracing paper. Transfer the design to the cardstock six times by photocopy or by cutting out the traced image and using it as a template. Make sure to mark the center of each traced image and the markings on the ends of each of the rays.

STEP 2 Cut out all six discs. Crease and fold (90-degree angle) the outermost ¼ inch (6 mm) of each ray in the same direction. Poke a hole in the center of each disc using a paper piercer or push pin. Set aside.

STEP 3 Cut six strips of cardstock that measure 7 x ½ inches (18 cm x 13 mm).

STEP 4 Use a quilling tool to roll each strip. Seal the end with a dot of glue. Be careful not to make the rolls too tight, as twine or embroidery floss will be threaded through the center of each roll.

STEP 5 Cut a 10-inch (25 cm) strand of twine or floss and tie a knot on one end. Starting with a disc, alternately thread all six discs and six rolls on the twine, adding a bit of glue between each disc and roll. Be sure to alternate the positions of the disc rays from one layer to the next. Use a needle if it makes this step easier. Make a loop on the end of the twine and use it to hang the ornament.

Citrus Slice Coasters

by Casey Starks

These playful citrus coasters would be great for a summer barbeque. Your guests could even take them home as party favors. Once you get the feel for the technique, reuse the supplies to create customized screen printed coasters for any theme. Try out the herringbone or ikat designs included in the templates section or come up with your own designs!

There are many different methods for screen printing. The drawing fluid method, outlined here, allows you to paint a design directly on the screen. With this technique you can create a beautiful, hand-painted design and print it on anything, over and over again, in any color. Since each brushstroke is unique, your design will certainly be one of a kind.

Casey Starks

California native Casey Starks is the creative mind behind her brands Vitamini and Vitamodern that feature screen printed gifts and stationery based on her original drawings and papercut designs. When she's not at her day job as a landscape architect, Casey can be found blogging, thrifting, or cruising around Silicon Valley in her yellow MINI Cooper, looking for inspiration. She loves bright colors, graphic patterns, and everything retro.

Blog: vitaminihandmade.blogspot.com

Shop: vitamini.etsy.com and vitamodern.etsy.com

Why Screen Printing?

Screen printing, also known as silk screening, is an artistic technique that has been around for centuries. Basically, a screen print is a design that has been created by forcing ink through a stretched fabric stencil. There are countless methods for creating screen stencils. The most temporary stencils can be made by applying paper, tape, or contact paper tape directly to the screen, blocking out the design. The drawing fluid method, outlined in this tutorial, begins with a hand-painted design applied to the screen as a resist. The open areas are blocked with screen filler and the design is washed out, resulting in a stencil of the painted design. This is a good method to start with as a beginner. When I create screens for my business-related prints, I use the photo emulsion method. With this method, a light-sensitive screen is created. The design, an opaque, black image on a transparency, is layered over the screen and exposed to light. The exposed areas of the screen harden, and the spaces underneath the design remain water soluble. The screen is rinsed and only the design washes out, resulting in a stencil that is an exact replica of the original design. Preparing a screen for printing can be a labor-intensive process, but the high-quality printed results, combined with the ease of reproduction, make the preparation worthwhile.

I fell in love with screen printing because everything about it is fundamentally handmade: from stretching the screen fabric, to coating the screen, and later applying my own hand drawn design, and rinsing it out at just the right moment. I also love the professional, high-quality results. Screen printed designs can be very versatile, in that they can be simple, one color designs or complex, layered images created with multiple colors and textures. With a screen print, each color is printed one at a time, so prints with multiple colors are the result of multiple screen stencils layered over one another. It’s an involved process that requires dedication, skill, and a commitment to the craft. Screen prints also have unique qualities and textures that can’t be achieved with a commercial inkjet or laser printer. For all of these reasons, I find screen printing to be very addictive. Once I get going, I want to print on everything in sight!

Tip!

Although the ink does wash out eventually, it’s usually recommended to wear gloves to reduce the clean up effort.

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Screen printing screen pre-stretched with fabric – find these at art stores or get them in the Speedball kit. There are also many tutorials online for making your own screens.

Blue painter’s tape 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide

Pencil

Design templates (page 108)

Paintbrushes sizes #1 and #6

Rubber spatula or plastic spoon

Wooden stir sticks

Paper plate

Speedball drawing fluid and screen filler – these come together in a kit

Squeegee

Cardboard strips 2, approximately 8 to 10 inches x 2 inches (20 to 25 cm x 5 cm)

Water-based screen printing inks intended for use on paper (Versatex— non-toxic, permanent, lightfast) Color(s) of choice; I mixed red and white to get grapefruit pink.

Small container with a lid if you are mixing your own ink colors