Читать книгу A Girl and Her Greens - April Bloomfield - Страница 10

introduction

I’ve developed a bit of a reputation for meat, particularly the odd parts – what I call the not-so-nasty bits. I certainly do adore trotters and kidneys and liver. I get chuffed about a roast dinner or sticky veal shank or a good burger. Yet lamb shoulders and suckling pigs are sort of like action films, with lots of explosions and excitement. You like them, but you probably don’t want to watch them all the time. And not even the juiciest steak or crispiest pig’s ear gets me happy like nice peas.

Just about my favourite thing to do is go to the farmers’ market in spring in search of flawless pea pods, unblemished and full. I walk around like a kid in a sweet shop, nabbing a pod at my favourite stall, gently squeezing until it splits to reveal a happy row of peas, and popping one in my mouth. You know when you like something so much that it makes you not just nod your head in satisfaction, but shake your head in disbelief? That’s what happens when I find that perfectly sweet pea. So many things conspired to make that pea – the weather, the soil, the farmer – and there you are on the receiving end. It makes me happy and grateful.

And I love that later on, I know I’ll be propped up at the counter with my big bag of peas, gently squeezing their bottoms so the pods pop open, running my finger along each one to split them, and nudging the peas into a bowl, listening to the pitter-patter sound they make as they tumble in. If I ever get up the nerve to get a tattoo, I’ll get one that shows a few pretty green pods.

I didn’t exactly grow up on a farm. I grew up in Birmingham and, like most big cities, it’s a place dominated by concrete and shopping centres. I was as particular an eater then as I am today. While nowadays I get fussy about finding the sweetest peas and the prettiest carrots, back when I was little, I got fussy about liking my bacon sandwiches with the slices still a bit floppy and a good dose of HP sauce. I insisted on eating my fish-finger sandwiches with butter and ketchup. When my nan skewered pineapple and cheddar chunks for a party, as people used to back then, I’d always steal the pineapple but leave the cheddar. To eat my Cadbury Flake, I’d squeeze the long package to crumble up the chocolate, then I’d open one side and tip it all into my mouth at once.

Like many working-class people, my parents didn’t always have time to shop for fresh vegetables, let alone peel them. I ate plenty of cauliflower, broccoli, and carrots that came from freezer bags. I’d cram these horrible veg into my cheeks like a chipmunk does, because I knew I had to eat them but I wanted to delay the chewing and the tasting. Frozen peas, however, I loved. I still do.

When the vegetables were fresh, they were often cooked in the English manner of the times – that is, for too long, until they were squishy and a little grey. I still remember some godawful Brussels sprouts, which at the time I just loved, boiled to buggery in a pressure cooker. England has come a long way since then.

We’d occasionally eat marrow, a sort of watery, overgrown courgette, as big as my forearm. My mom would scrape out the seedy middles to make canoes, pack in minced meat, and bake them. I quite liked these, the way the marrow got creamy and you could just shovel it into your mouth with the meat without thinking that you were eating the vegetable. For a spell in the ’80s, after we moved house and got our first microwave, my family lived on potatoes ‘baked’ in the futuristic oven. Imagine, putting something as lovely as a potato in the microwave! Even as a girl, I knew how wonderful potatoes could be, thanks to my school’s cafeteria. I might have been horrible at my times tables – while the rest of the class was on 6s, I could barely make it through my 2s – but I was quite good at eating steamy boiled potatoes bombarded with butter and black pepper.

My early vegetable mentors weren’t chefs obsessed with the perfect tomato or blokes who plunged their hands into the cool dirt to pull up carrots. One of them was my granddad. When I was a girl, he ran a small café called Lincon Road. His customers were a mix of Mods and Rockers. Mods wore suits with thin ties, rode mopeds, and listened to dub music and The Who; Rockers wore leather, rode proper motorcycles, and listened to Elvis and Eddie Cochrane. When the two factions weren’t fighting each other, they were trying to drill a hole in the café’s pinball machine to get at the coins inside. My granddad tried to keep the peace with tea and toast.

He loved his café. And he was a good cook. He was particularly proud of the fry-ups he cooked there, which along with the mandatory egg, bread, sausage, and bacon included lowly vegetables like button mushrooms, Heinz tinned baked beans, and pale tomato halves browned slightly in hot fat. While I loved the meaty bits, I had special affection for those tomatoes. Just when you thought you couldn’t take another bite of sausage, the tomatoes’ acidity would revive your palate and you’d go back in for more.

My nan, who passed away more than a decade ago, also put thought and attention into her vegetable cookery. She made the best Sunday roast, which was less about the lamb or pork she made than it was about the unromantic array of carrots, parsnips, peas, sprouts, potatoes and swedes – none of the Treviso, ramps and Romanesco that get me giddy these days. The pile on my plate, so high it nearly reached my chin, was mostly veg. She was really good with mise en place: growing up, I delighted in visiting her house and seeing the stove arranged with little pots, each filled with peeled vegetables ready to be cooked.

My mom might not have been the world’s greatest cook, but she did have a little garden. My parents didn’t have much money, but they were quite house-proud and always kept our modest terrace house in Druid’s Heath looking nice. In the garden, my mom planted pretty little plots of pansies and strawberries, tomatoes, and spring onions. I loved the taste of her tomatoes straight off the vine, though when she made salad with those same tomatoes and her spring onions, I’d still douse the whole thing with Heinz Salad Cream, like a proper kid. I wish everyone had their own garden. I wish I had my own garden. In New York City, I don’t even have a pot on the fire escape.

Things changed after I finished my first cooking job, at the carvery station at a Holiday Inn. I was lucky to work for chefs with an affection for produce, like Rowley Leigh and Simon Hopkinson. But my own affection for veg really took off when I started at the River Café, working for Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers.

I was swept up by all of their obsessions, especially the vegetables that they sourced from Italy. There were proper Florence fennel and artichokes and celeriac that Rose and Ruth brought in by the pallet. Until then, these were things I liked all right but didn’t really understand. I knew celeriac to be a pleasant, if unremarkable, root whose main distinction was that it was knobby, and a bit homely. Not at the River Café. There it was dense and sweet. A sniff at the base would yield that floral aroma, just as it would when I sniffed a ripe melon.

Besides rediscovering old friends, I also met new ones, like the Roman delicacy called puntarelle, a highly seasonal chicory whose slender leaves are very, very bitter. Because Rose and Ruth adored it, I ate it again and again in order to understand the pleasure they took in it, in the same way you want to try lager because your dad drinks it, then next thing you know you see past the bitterness and actually enjoy it yourself.

After five years at the River Café, I moved to Berkeley, California. The first day I arrived at my flat on Shattuck and Folsom, I was too chuffed to just sit around, so I dropped my bags and had a wander. I didn’t know my way, but next thing I knew, I was staring at a big peace sign made out of garlic heads hanging on a gate outside a restaurant. I had stumbled on Chez Panisse, where I had come to work. My new boss was Chris Lee, and his kitchen was filled with people who had been cooking there for ten years. That told me a lot about the place, straight away. Jobs in restaurant kitchens are typically high-turnover, because of the intensity of the work, the low pay, and cranky-knickers bosses like yours truly; but there, no one seemed to ever want to leave.

Chez Panisse, if you haven’t heard, was a pioneer in simple, ingredient-driven cooking. Working there, you couldn’t help but develop a close connection to the ingredients at hand. In fact, part of the job was learning how they were grown. That’s how I came to visit Green String Farm (then called Cannard Farm) in Sonoma County, which supplied much of the produce we cooked with at Chez Panisse. I met an engaging man called Bob Cannard, who taught me how much work and passion it takes to grow wonderful vegetables. I learned that not all soil is created equal and that you could alter its mineral composition (Bob enriched it with pulverized oyster shells, old crops left to die, and something he called ‘compost tea’) to give the vegetables what they needed to grow and be tasty. I learned that bugs weren’t necessarily the enemies of vegetables. Bob considered bugs to be helpful little critters – seeing them ravaging a plant told him that the plant itself wasn’t healthy enough to ward off the fellows. It’s funny, but toiling in a windowless restaurant kitchen, it’s surprisingly easy to forget that vegetables come from seeds in the ground and not from boxes brought by your purveyor.

I might never have left California with its vast variety of produce, available almost all year round, if I hadn’t been offered the job at the Spotted Pig. I’m happy I did leave, if only because I like the East Coast and its more dramatic seasons. Every time you turn around, there’s something new to be excited about: Ooh, ramps are coming in! Fantastic, pumpkin is back!

One of the loveliest things about vegetables is their ability to evoke a particular season or place. Meat and seafood can do this, too – there’s spring lamb, softshell crabs, and shad roe – but nothing like how a heap of ramps at the farmers’ market announces spring’s arrival or how endless punnets of tomatoes on a table at a roadside stall signal summer. When the leaves begin to turn, you won’t spot aubergines at the market. When you’re still wearing your thermals, you won’t find spring garlic, with their purple-speckled bulbs and pert green stalks, no matter how hard you search. And that’s OK. In fact, I quite like it.

Life would be boring if you could have everything at any time. I like the limits that the seasons impose. I like having something to look forward to. I don’t even mind when nature disappoints me with a bad year for corn or tomatoes. You develop an almanac in your head – like, ‘Oh, tomatoes were so bad that year.’ When great ones return, you get to think, ‘Finally, lovely tomatoes!’ Vegetables make you happy when they’re there, and you miss them when they’re gone.

When I told a friend that I was working on a vegetable cookbook, he said that this made sense, since vegetables have become so trendy. I had a good laugh at that. I guess I must have lost the plot somewhere along the way, because I still don’t think beetroot, carrots and asparagus are cool. I do, however, think that they’re delicious. That’s good enough for me.

But I suppose I see what my mate meant. Lately, you’ve got people like Michael Pollan and Mark Bittman making the case with science and common sense that we should all cut back on meat, for our health as well as for the planet’s. Chefs have been taking up the cause, treating veg with the love and care once reserved mainly for rib eye steaks and lamb chops. My motivation is more about passion than scruples. I’m not trying to make a statement. I just love the way boiled broccoli raab sort of bites the back of your mouth. I love how creamy properly cooked aubergine gets. I could shuck corn all day, thinking about how sweet it’ll taste.

Vegetables have some practical advantages over meat, too. For example, while pork shoulders and legs of lamb need to be cooked softly, you’re not going to braise an artichoke for hours. Still, I don’t like to think of cooking, eating, and enjoying vegetables as something you do while you’re not eating meat. While this book is about vegetables, not all the recipes are vegetarian. I like cooking my collards with lots of bacon. Anchovies give so many veg a lift. Some vegetables even turn meaty on you. Red onion gives sauces and soups a meatiness that other onions don’t. Mushrooms give off an inviting aroma as they sear, which makes me think of veal kidneys. Artichoke hearts have a fleshy texture. Boiled asparagus can be juicy. I’m not saying vegetables should aspire to be like meat. I’m just saying that meat eaters will appreciate these qualities, and that vegetables can satisfy you the way meat does.

the farmers’ market

Before you cook, you must shop, and there’s no better place to shop than the farmers’ market. Your goal is to find the best vegetables that you can. The higher your standards, the better your food will be.

First off, have a brisk walk through the market without buying a thing. This is especially true for markets that are new to you, where you don’t know the vendors well. Because while it’s tempting to jump at the first bunch of radishes you spot, not all veg, no matter how lovingly they’re grown, are the same. What a shame it would be to buy radishes at one stall only to come across even perter, more peppery ones elsewhere. You want to make your walk brisk – really get a wiggle on! – so you can get back to any bunches and baskets that struck you earlier, before they get snapped up.

If you have the opportunity to taste what you see, please do, though you should ask your farmer nicely first. Taste everything you can. In the summer, taste cherry tomatoes until you find those that are thrillingly sweet-tart and explode when you bite them. In the spring, taste peas. I like to visit every stand and ogle the bins of peas, looking for the prettiest ones. Then I’ll pick out a nice plump pod and pinch it open. Pop a pea in your mouth. If it’s candy sweet and barely starchy, grab a bag and fill it up. Taste rocket from this stall and that until you find the one that aggressively bites the sides of your tongue.

Have a chat with a farmer. You might learn that her pumpkins are especially sweet thanks in part to a frost. She might turn you on to an oddball mushroom that she tells you tastes a bit like crab, or you might encounter so-called over-wintered broccoli raab, which is especially sweet. And don’t forgot to snap pictures of celebrity vegetables, such as the hard-to-find Rosa Bianca variety of aubergine (squat and ridged with mottled light purple and white skin), so you can look at them during a dull moment in your day or while planning a dinner, and get reinvigorated.

It should go without saying that you should never pick anything that’s bruised, spongy or bendy. But perfect-looking vegetables don’t always taste perfect. Selecting great vegetables comes with experience. When you taste something at the market, or later as you’re cooking, take a close look at it. Wonder what was it about this courgette – perhaps it was a big honking thing – that might have warned you that it would taste so bland. What was it about this tomato – perhaps it was evenly coloured, even near the stem, and heavy for its size – that could have told you it would be so sweet and meaty?

This way, you’ll develop preferences. One of my preferences, in general, is for small to medium-size vegetables. I don’t care for spindly, sprouty asparagus, but I’m not into fat stalks either. Tiny courgettes are adorable, but so small that you don’t get to enjoy the vegetable’s character. I could live without baby fennel, which is too small to serve as crunchy slices or to be boiled to a creamy, meaty texture. Large pea pods seem tempting until you realize that the biggest ones tend to be starchy. While you might be tempted by a massive carrot, thinking you’d only have to peel that one, keep in mind that smaller carrots tend to taste sweeter and have thin skin that you don’t need to peel at all.

Certain vegetables need to be used as soon as possible. Peas, corn, and green beans are sweetest just after they’re picked. As they sit, the sugars turn to starch. So when you find sweet corn at the market, cook it for dinner that night.

Of course, vegetables don’t always cooperate. Then you must adapt. If you’d like to make salad but the tomatoes are nearly bursting from the skins, consider making sauce instead. If you can’t find tomatoes that meet your standard, change your plans on what to cook for dinner. You never want to go to the market stubborn.

the simple things

Often I find that the least exciting way of cooking actually leads to the most wonderful place. In fact, I like lots of vegetables – artichokes, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower – just boiled in salty water and served with a glug of olive oil and a sprinkle of chilli or a tender squeeze of lemon. If you’ve got perfect veg, there’s no need to manipulate it. There’s nothing wrong with finding broccoli raab and just blanching it. Maybe you’re thinking, ‘Blanched broccoli, that sounds like the worst thing in the world.’ But if your product is amazing and you don’t cook it to buggery, then just blanching it can be the most beautiful thing.

In fact, part of me thinks that unless you’re a practised home cook, you should treat all vegetables like this, though a list of stuff I like to boil wouldn’t make for much of a cookbook, now would it? Nor would it go over well at my restaurants if I served only plates of boiled swede and boiled carrots. That’s why in this cookbook most of the recipes go much further than plain old boiling.

Yet because the simplest preparations deserve attention as well, I’ve sprinkled throughout the book a handful of not quite recipes for some of my favourite vegetables. I wanted to share with you the way I eat ingredients like tomatoes, corn, and potatoes at home, when I don’t have to please anyone but myself. They’re so simple that they don’t require full-on recipes. Instead, they’re more like little road maps encouraging you to play around and find your own way. Whatever you do, you want your potatoes to still taste like potatoes, your corn to still taste like corn. Whatever you add – lemon, chilli, anchovy, or all three – shouldn’t dominate. These kinds of flavour enhancers should help bring out the good qualities of the veg or serve to balance its harsh ones.

My hope is that you’ll start playing with vegetables on your own. Take fennel, lovely fennel. When it’s raw, it has a soft crunch and subtle anise-y sweetness. When you boil the fennel, its texture goes creamy and its sweetness really comes out to say hello. You don’t have to do anything more but sometimes it’s good fun to continue to transform the flavour, though never so much that you obscure the essence of the fennel itself. Maybe you decide to go that extra step and concentrate that sweetness by sautéing the boiled fennel, then balancing that sweetness with a little acidity – a splash of vinegar or tart citrus. If you’re feeling ambitious, you might start exploring different sides of the same vegetable, combining raw and roasted fennel.

Never neglect the simple pleasures of cooking. When recipes do require more than a dunk in boiling water, try not to look at the process as a chore. If you think about how slow-cooked onions will ultimately transform a dish, the work itself becomes exciting. Get to know the process. Many of my recipes begin the same way, with onions and perhaps garlic or carrots sweating in hot fat. Settle in at the stove while they sizzle. Stir them and watch closely as they change. As you stir, look out for the point they begin to stick to the pan ever so slightly, which happens right before browning begins. Taste them, so you can see how sweet they’re becoming. Have a good old sniff. These are the little pleasures of cooking, the gifts a cook gets in return for making dinner. And attention to these details is what makes food taste wonderful. When garlic goes toasty and golden, it unleashes umami and colours the entire dish with its warm, nutty flavour. Onions can become incredibly sweet, leaking that sweetness into stews and sauces. The way you treat onions and garlic, even though the two are not usually the starring veg, determines the character of the final dish. Browning them will make the entire dish taste hearty, more appropriate for a chilly day. Lowering the heat and keeping them free of colour makes for a lighter-tasting dish, even when it features a hefty veg like parsnips or cauliflower. Rush the process, however, and your food will lack depth. Get distracted and your garlic will burn.

I hope you’ll keep this in mind as you read my recipes. As I did in my first cookbook, I decided that instead of writing recipes that look invitingly short, I’d offer recipes full of the little details that make food great. So please don’t mistake a recipe that looks long for a recipe that’s too complex to cook.

be fussy

Once you get to cooking, you should be particular, or – to be less charitable – fussy, about the ingredients you use. That the tastier these raw ingredients are the better your food will be should go without saying. Yet while I reckon that everyone agrees that a sweet pea is more delicious than a starchy bland one, I also reckon that each cook has her own quirky preferences. I embrace mine, which is why the recipes in this book are the way they are.

I leave the skin and spindly roots on beetroot, because they’re tasty and pretty. I often blanch and peel tomatoes that I plan to cook with, sometimes even running the result through a food mill to achieve a smooth texture, without bothersome bits of seeds. I always peel the caps of portobello mushrooms, though I’m not quite sure why.

I’m particular, too, about some of the ingredients that many recipes in this book share. Here, you’ll find a rundown of these staple ingredients that reflects my quirks. I hope you’ll try things my way, but I know the way you cook is a reflection of who you are and everyone’s different. Whether you adopt my eccentricities or not, you too should embrace your inner fuss-bucket and decide what you like and what gets you grumpy.

ANCHOVIES

Anchovies are good friends to vegetables, adding salty umami but not necessarily fishy flavour. I prefer salt-packed whole anchovies to oil-packed fillets. You’ll need to fillet them yourself, but it only takes a few extra minutes. If you must use the oil-packed kind, make sure they’re top quality – I like the Ortiz brand – and that you gently wipe the oil from the fillets before you cook with them.

Soaking and filleting salt-packed anchovies

Rinse the anchovies one at a time under cold running water, rubbing them gently between your fingers to remove the salt. Put them in a small bowl and add just enough water to cover. After about a minute – if you soak them for too long, they’ll lose their umami quality – give them another quick rinse.

To fillet the anchovies, hold an anchovy under cold running water. Use your fingers to brush away the soft, loose matter near the head and at the belly. Rub the outside to remove any remaining salt or hard bits. Keeping the anchovy under the water, gently work a fingertip along the belly to start to separate the fillets. Gently pull the fillets apart – this should be easy, especially once you get the hang of it. Drape the now boneless fillet over the edge of a bowl to drain. Take the second fillet and pinch the backbone, pull it gently out, and discard it. Put the second fillet next to the first. Do the same with the rest of the anchovies.

GARLIC

In this book, I call for two types of garlic: standard garlic and spring garlic. By the time you buy standard garlic, the bulbs have hung in a warm, dry place for several weeks until the skins dry out and become papery. The process, known as ‘curing’, helps preserve the garlic. Spring garlic, however, is eaten right after it’s pulled from the earth, and has a sweeter, milder flavour. During its season, I often use spring garlic in place of standard garlic, though I add a bit more since its flavour is not as strong. The standard garlic you get at farmers’ markets is typically good and fresh. In many supermarkets, however, it often has a little bright green germ growing inside or even peeking out the tip of the cloves. If you’re fussy like me, you’ll slice garlic cloves in half lengthwise and flick this green bit out before you get to chopping or cooking. Some people say the green bit makes your food a bit bitter; I don’t find it bitter, but have seen it contribute an off-putting blue-ish colour to what I’m cooking.

HERBS

Herbs are delicate things. When you’re washing and handling them, be gentle. With herbs like basil and mint, which oxidise easily, be especially careful and always chop or tear them just before you plan to use them. Because herbs are so fragile, I’m always torn about how to provide measurements for them. I hate the idea of calling for tablespoons and cups, because thinking about someone cramming delicate herbs in a cup measure makes my bum cheeks clench. So I’ve opted for measurements that feel more natural to me: handfuls, small handfuls, and what I call five-finger pinches. Imagine a heap of mint leaves – a five-finger pinch means as much as you can grab with just the tips of all five fingers, as opposed to a typical pinch for which you’d grab with just your thumb and two fingers. Most of these measurements assume that you’ve picked the leaves from the tough stems. For parsley and coriander, however, I like to use what I call ‘delicate sprigs’, which are a few inches long and include thin, tender stems as well as leaves.

TOMATOES

I’m plenty fussy about tomatoes, whether they’re fresh or tinned. I often treat both to a little grooming before I cook with them.

Peeling fresh tomatoes

In several recipes, I call for tomatoes to be peeled. Here’s how to do it. Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Use a knife to cut a shallow ‘X’ at the bottom of each tomato. Working in batches of tomatoes of similar size, carefully plunge them in the boiling water and blanch for 20 seconds for larger tomatoes, and about 10 seconds for smaller ones. Gently transfer them to a colander and run them under cold running water. The peels will have loosened and you should be able to pull them off easily at the ‘X’.

Draining and trimming tinned tomatoes

Any recipe in this book that calls for tinned tomatoes asks that you drain and trim them. First, drain and discard the liquid they come in, which I find tastes artificially sweet and salty. Second, trim any yellowish patches, straggling skin, and the tough core from each tomato.