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Rhode Island

By Barbara Radcliffe Rogers & Stillman Rogers

Water defines “Little Rhody” as much as mountain peaks characterize Colorado. The Atlantic Ocean borders its southeastern side, not in one smooth coastline but in a delightfully ragged, sea-fringed edge of islands, inlets, and the large basin that is Narragansett Bay. Indeed, while this tiny state measures only 37 miles east to west—you can easily drive from end to end in under an hour—within those 37 miles Rhode Island tucks in some 400 miles of seacoast. No wonder its official nickname is the Ocean State!

At the northern point of Narragansett Bay, 30 miles from the open ocean, lies Providence, the state capital, founded in 1636 by theologian Roger Williams. A couple of years later, another group of Puritan exiles established a settlement on an island in the Narragansett Bay known to the Narragansett tribe as Aquidneck. Settlers thought their new home resembled the Isle of Rhodes in the Aegean, so the region’s name became “Rhode Island and Providence Plantations”—a title that eventually came to be used for the entire state.

Rhode Island’s most important coastal town, Newport, is the best reason for an extended visit here. Newport’s first era of prosperity was during the Colonial period, when its ships plied new mercantile routes to China. The city also was central to the reprehensible “Triangle Trade” of rum from New England, molasses from the West Indies, and enslaved peoples from Africa. Smuggling and evading taxes brought the ship owners into conflict with their British rulers and the occupying British army all but destroyed Newport during the American Revolution. About a hundred years later, after the U.S. Civil War, the town began its transformation to luxury resort. Millionaires arrived and built astonishingly extravagant mansions, dubbed their summer “cottages.” (Their lives spawned what authors Mark Twain and Charles Dudley Warner sneeringly described as the “Gilded Age” in their 1873 novel The Gilded Age: A Tale of Today.) Those mansions remain intact, and many are open to visitors. Newport also became a yachting destination: Sailing’s most famous trophy, the America’s Cup, was moved to the city in 1930 and Newport continues to be a recreational sailing center with a packed summer cultural calendar. The result is a city with a little of everything: Visitors who want nothing more than to listen to the surf can happily coexist with history buffs.

Rhode Island

Finally, there is Block Island. Beloved by both year-round residents and vacationers, it’s a 1-hour ferry ride from the southern coast of the state. It’s a quieter and less chic summer destination than Martha’s Vineyard (p. 266), the Massachusetts island about 50 miles to its east. “The Block” has few mandatory sights, leaving visitors free simply to explore its lighthouses, hike its cliffside trails, and hit the beach.

Providence

50 miles S of Boston, MA; 57 miles NE of New London, CT

From a neglected, run-down industrial has-been in the 1970s, Providence has re-created itself into a thriving, lively arts and creative center, alive with an energy that sets it apart from other small and midsize New England cities. Rivers have been uncovered to form canals and waterside walkways (and host a popular summer event called WaterFire); distressed buildings from the 1800s have been reclaimed and made into residences and office spaces; and construction has wrought new hotels and large public/private partnerships such as Providence Place, a mega-mall opened in 1999 that brought national department stores here for the first time.

Prosperity is evident in the resurgent Downcity business center and emerging adjacent neighborhoods, the Arts & Entertainment District to its west and Jewelry District to its south. Also on the rise is the West Side, a former industrial enclave adjoining Federal Hill, the city’s traditional “Little Italy.” All this new energy has attracted creative young people and restaurants, shops, bars, and entertainments they crave. A current key initiative, City Walk, is part of an Urban Trail plan that will strengthen the connections between neighborhoods, celebrating their diversity and culture through public art, signage and attractive public spaces.

The key historic figure of the region is Roger Williams (1603–83), a theologian who established a colony in Providence in 1636 after being banned from the Massachusetts Bay Colony for his views on religious freedom. Williams had good instincts for town building. He planted the seeds of his settlement on a steep rise overlooking a swift-flowing river at the point where it widened into a large protected harbor. That part of the city, called the East Side and dominated by the ridge now known as College Hill, is one of the most attractive city districts in New England, second only to Boston in the breadth of its cultural life and rich architectural heritage.

Essentials

Arriving

BY CAR I-95, which connects Boston and New York, runs right through the city. Going to or from Cape Cod, pick up I-195 West.

Providence

BY TRAIN Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]) runs several trains daily between Boston and New York that stop at the attractive station at 100 Gaspee St., near the State House. The train journey from Boston takes anywhere from 35 minutes to 1 hour, depending on how many stops the train makes; tickets cost $12 and up. The trip from New York takes 3 or 3½ hours, with fares $50 and up.

BY PLANE T. F. Green/Providence Airport (www.pvdairport.com; 401/737-8222 or 401/691-2000) in Warwick, south of Providence (I-95, exit 13), handles domestic and international flights into the state. Most major U.S. airlines fly here, along with Air Canada (www.aircanada.com), and the European carriers Azores Airlines (www.azoresairlines.pt), and low-cost Norwegian Airlines (www.norwegian.com).

Between the Airport & the City Center

The Rhode Island Public Transit Authority, or RIPTA (www.ripta.com; 800/244-0444 or 401/781-9400), provides transportation between the airport and the city center. Taxis are also available, about $30 to $35 for the 20-minute trip; shared shuttle van rides cost $11.

Visitor Information

The Providence Warwick Convention & Visitors Bureau runs an information center in the Rhode Island Convention Center, 1 Sabin St. (www.goprovidence.com; 800/233-1636 or 401/751-1177). Their website is full of good information, too, and you can request a visitors’ guide booklet to be mailed to you in advance. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm.

City Layout

Downcity is the center for business, government, and entertainment, with City Hall, the convention center, the best large hotels, and venues for music, dance, and theatrical productions. Most points of general interest are found in the East Side and College Hill, which lie—as their names imply—east and uphill from downtown. To downtown’s north, across the Woonasquatucket River, is the imposing State House, as well as the Amtrak station. To its west, on the other side of I-95, is Federal Hill, a residential area bearing a primarily Italian ethnic identity, although increasingly permeated by more recent immigrant groups.

Getting Around

Traffic on local streets isn’t bad, even at rush hour. But hailing a taxi is not easy; few can be found outside even the largest hotels, and when called from restaurants they can take up to an hour. The RIPTA bus Green and Gold Lines, which look like old-time trolleys, have routes that reach most major hotels and tourist destinations. Each ride costs $1.75; you can buy tickets at RIPTA ticket vending machines, the Kennedy Plaza ticket window, or onboard.

Exploring Providence

City boosters are understandably proud of downtown Providence’s Waterplace Park & Riverwalk , which encircles a tidal basin and borders the Woonasquatucket River down past where it joins the Moshassuck to become the Providence River. It incorporates an amphitheater, boat landings, landscaped walkways, and vaguely Venetian bridges. Summer concerts and other events are held here, including the popular WaterFire (see p. 431).

At the park’s eastern end is a singular attraction, La Gondola (www.gondolari.com; 401/421-8877). A faithful replica of the Venetian original, it carries up to six passengers along the Woonasquatucket and Providence rivers May through October. Especially popular for rides during the WaterFire events, its rates run from $179 (2 persons) to $279 (6 persons) for WaterFire nights, or $89–$169 (2–6 persons) for a 40-minute Viaggio Dei Sogni experience—about what it would cost in the Italian city itself, minus the airfare.

South of the river and west of Exchange Street, expansive Kennedy Plaza lies in the heart of downtown. In winter, a huge outdoor ice skating rink (www.theprovidencerink.com; 401/331-5544) is set up here; it’s fully utilized almost every evening in cold weather, with skate rentals, lockers, and a snack bar are on site. In summer the Plaza is home to special events.

Stroll the Historic Neighborhoods

To get a sense of Providence’s evolution from a colony of dissidents to a contemporary center of commerce and government, take a leisurely walk from downtown (or “Downcity,” as it’s called here) across the river toward Brown University; you’ll pass most of the prominent Providence attractions.

Start at Providence City Hall (built in 1878), at Kennedy Plaza and Dorrance Street. Walk 1 block south, turn left onto Westminster, then right in 1 block at the Arcade (see p. 432), then left onto Weybosset. Follow Weybosset until it joins Westminster, and continue along Westminster across the Providence River. Turn right, along the river on South Water Street as far as James Street, just before the I-195 overpass. Turn left onto James, cross South Main, and then turn left on Benefit Street.

Here on Benefit Street is the start of the so-called Mile of History . Lined with 18th- and 19th-century houses, it is enhanced by gas streetlamps and sections of brick herringbone sidewalks. Along the way are opportunities to visit, in sequence, the 1786 John Brown House, the Providence Athenaeum (p. 431), and the Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design (p. 430). The grand Gov. Henry Lippitt House Museum (p. 430) is a half-mile from the RISD museum and worth a stop if you’re touring on a Friday.

The area from Benefit up to the right (east) is College Hill , site of the former Rhode Island College (founded in 1764), which was later renamed Brown University. Now a National Historic District, College Hill has several square miles of 18th- and 19th-century Colonial and Victorian houses lining its streets. In the middle of the Brown campus, parallel to Benefit, is Thayer Street, a funky shopping district.

The Rhode Island Historical Society (www.rihs.org; 401/331-8575) offers guided walking tours of the city’s neighborhoods starting from the John Brown House Museum (52 Power St.).

Brown University The nation’s seventh-oldest college was founded in 1764 and has a reputation as the most experimental institution among its Ivy League brethren. The evidence of its pre-Revolutionary origins is seen in University Hall, built in 1771. Free tours of the campus are intended primarily for prospective students, but anyone can join. Reservations are not necessary, but call ahead to check the schedule, which changes frequently. Tours begin at Stephen Robert ’62 Campus Center located at 75 Waterman St.

Office of Admissions, 45 Prospect St. (at Angell St.). www.brown.edu. 401/863-1000.

Gov. Henry Lippitt House Museum HISTORIC HOME This 1865 mansion is as magnificently true to its grandiose Victorian era as any residence on the Continent. Expanses of stained glass, meticulously detailed stenciling, and inlaid floors make this one of the treasures of College Hill. Visits are by guided tour only.

199 Hope St. (at Angell St.). www.preserveri.org. 401/453-0688. Guided tour $10. Tours May–Oct Fri and 3rd Sat of month: 11am–3pm on the hour (last tour at 2pm); Nov–Apr by appointment only.

Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design MUSEUM Prestigious RISD (pronounced Riz-dee) supports this center of fine and decorative arts. Of New England’s many excellent college and university museums, this ranks near the top for the breadth of its collection. Holdings include textile arts and French Impressionist paintings, with works by such masters as Monet, Cézanne, Rodin, Picasso, and Matisse. Allow extra time for the American wing, which contains paintings by John Singleton Copley and John Singer Sargent, and the contemporary collection, which includes sculpture by Louise Bourgeois and videos by Bruce Nauman. The Gorham silver collection, including work by Colonial silversmith Paul Revere, is itself worth the price of admission.

224 Benefit St. (at Waterman St.) or 20 N. Main St. www.risdmuseum.org. 401/454-6500. $15 adults, $12 seniors, $3 college students, free under age 18. Free to all 3rd Thurs of month 5–9pm, Sun 10am–1pm, and last Sat of month. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (3rd Thurs of month until 9pm).

Pawtucket Red Sox Baseball at McCoy Stadium SPECTATOR SPORTS Just 6 miles north of Providence is Pawtucket, a working-class city with a great attraction: the minor league ballpark for the Pawtucket Red Sox, a Triple A baseball team. As the step just before the big leagues with the Boston Red Sox, Pawtucket is the place to catch both up-and-coming stars and big name players recovering from injuries. Baseball at McCoy Stadium is old-timey American: The crowds are friendly, the prices are modest, the baseball is good, and the music is low-key. You can even get your photo taken with the mascots (Paws and Sox) for free. Fun fact: McCoy was witness to the longest game in baseball history—33 innings, played over 2 days in 1981 (the Paw Sox won). Note: In 2018 it was announced that the PawSox will be moving to a new stadium in Worcester, Massachusetts in 2021. Goodbye PawSox, hello WooSox!

1 Columbus Ave., Pawtucket. (Take I-95 to exit 27, 28, or 29 and follow signs.) www.pawsox.com. 401/724-7300. Box seats $14; general admission $9 adults, $6 senior, military and children 12 and under. Limited free parking; paid parking nearby. Season runs Apr–Sept.

Providence Athenaeum LIBRARY The Providence Athenaeum commissioned this 1838 Greek Revival building to house its lending library, the fourth-oldest in the United States. Edgar Allan Poe courted Sarah Whitman, his “Annabel Lee,” among the stacks here. Glances through the old card catalog reveal handwritten cards dating well back into the 1800s; bibliophiles will lose themselves in this evocative place. Rotating exhibits of rare books and works by local artists are additional attractions.

251 Benefit St. (at College St.). www.providenceathenaeum.org. 401/421-6970. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 9am–7pm; Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 1–5pm. Also Sun 1–5pm Sept–May. Closed 1st 2 weeks Aug.

Rhode Island State House ARCHITECTURE Constructed of white Georgian marble that blazes in the sun, Rhode Island’s capitol building dominates the city center. This near-flawless example of neoclassical governmental architecture (by McKim, Mead & White; 1885–1904) is crowned by one of the world’s largest self-supported domes. The gilded figure on top represents “Independent Man,” the state symbol. Inside the State Room is a portrait of George Washington, one of several painted by Gilbert Stuart (1755–1828), a Rhode Island native.

82 Smith St. (at State St.). sos.ri.gov/divisions/Civics-And-Education/State-House-Tour. 401/277-2357. Free admission. Guided tours by appointment.

Roger Williams Park Zoo ZOO One of the country’s oldest zoos (founded in 1872), its mission is to engage visitors’ interest in animals and to promote their conservation in the wild. The 40-acre zoo is divided into six habitats: Tropical America, North America, the Plains of Africa, Madagascar, Australia, and the Marco Polo Trail. Featured animals include giraffes, elephants, harbor seals, and snow leopards. Halloween brings special programs including a huge display of jack-o-lanterns and “spooky zoo” parties.

1000 Elmwood Ave. (exit 16 or 17 from I-95). www.rwpzoo.org. 401/785-3510. $18 adults, $16 seniors, $13 ages 2–12, free for children 1 and under; 50% discount for retired and active military. Admission half-price Jan–Feb. Free parking. Daily 9am–4pm.

Stroll Federal Hill

Federal Hill, on the west side of the city, has long been a tourist destination. It’s a traditionally Italian neighborhood—the television show Brotherhood was filmed in the area, as was the 1994 movie Federal Hill—complete with traditional Italian eateries, but since about 1990 it has seen a rise in non-Italian restaurants and new boutiques and galleries (see “Shopping,” p. 432). Atwells Avenue is the neighborhood’s main artery.

WaterFire Providence OUTDOOR EVENT The signature event of the Providence summer and early fall are the WaterFire nights. Along the three rivers that run through the city, an installation of 100 floating bonfires creates a haunting glow, with world music adding to the scene. Thousands of people descend to the shores to witness the event, held a dozen times from late spring to early fall. It takes place along Memorial Boulevard and the Providence and Woonasquatucket Rivers, running for just over a half-mile from Providence Place to the Crawford Street Bridge.

Basin of Waterplace Park and along the river, downtown Providence. www.waterfire.org. 401/273-1155. Free admission, donations accepted at site. Late May–Oct, from 20 min. after sunset until midnight. Check website for schedule.

Shopping

On the East Side of the city, Thayer Street, the main commercial district for Brown University, is good for browsing. The official Brown Bookstore is here, at no. 244 (corner of Olive St.). Wickenden Street, which crosses Thayer at its southern end, also has interesting shops and art galleries.

Downtown, Providence Place, a 170-store mall at One Providence Place (www.providenceplace.com; 401/270-1000), is home to Nordstrom, Tiffany & Co., Coach, Apple Store, J. Jill, and Build-A-Bear Workshop, among others. There’s also a National Amusements IMAX movie theater. The mall’s parking garage rates are reasonable for a midsize city (2 hours free, 2–5 hours $2, 5–8 hours $15 and up).

The Arcade , 66 Weybosset St. ( 401/454-4568) is the granddaddy of all U.S. shopping malls, having opened in 1828. While its upper floors have now been made into “small lofts”, the first floor continues the shopping history with nine shops. Carmen and Ginger specializes in items including jewelry, clothing, and bric-a-brac—you might say light antiques. Chamonix Antiques sells furniture and art (both old and contemporary). The Arcade also has Lovecraft Arts and Sciences, a book and gift store devoted to Providence native son H. P. Lovecraft, the early 20th-century master of horror and spooky fiction; it also serves as headquarters for occasional literary events and the biannual Necronomicon convention.

Foodies will want to stroll Federal Hill, Providence’s “Little Italy,” west of I-95 (see box p. 431). Head to Atwells Avenue, the main drag. Keep an eye out for Costantino’s Venda Ravioli , 275 Atwells Ave. (www.vendaravioli.com; 401/421-9105), a pasta store that has expanded into a small empire of prepared foods, packaged Italian specialties, and large cheese and meat sections. There’s an espresso bar, as well as cafe tables for noshing either inside or on a terrace.

Where to Stay in Providence

The Renaissance Providence, listed below, is across the street from the State House. Three others recommended are downtown—“Downcity,” as it’s called here—and one is just south of the city near TF Green Airport. Tip: Hotel demand goes through the roof for Brown University commencement weekend; even if you are lucky enough to snag a free room, expect rates to soar well above usual.

The Dean Hotel As cheeky and hip as the city itself, The Dean is a newcomer to Downcity but rooted firmly in its idiosyncratic traditions. Take the karaoke lounge for example, or the stylish furniture that combines the work of local craftspeople with “previously owned” finds. There’s a sociable vibe going on here, in the welcoming public areas and in the no-phone-no-reservations-no-menu restaurant, North , where ingredients are sourced from local growers and producers. Stylish rooms are decorated with original art and works of RISD photographers, and range from cozy double-bunk dens to Guardian Suites with king-size beds and seating for six.

122 Fountain St. (btw. Snow and Mathewson sts.). www.thedeanhotel.com. 401/455-3316. 52 units. $109–$209 double. Valet parking $28. Amenities: Restaurant; coffee bar; cocktail lounge; karaoke lounge; rain showers; complimentary bikes; Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Providence A dazzling contribution to the emerging downtown arts and entertainment district, this boutique hotel, combining two buildings, gained instant membership in the selective Small Luxury Hotels of the World marketing group. The owners filled the public areas with fine 18th- and 19th-century European antiques and artworks, and commissioned custom reproductions for the bedrooms to carry the image through. Pillow-top beds are cozy and enveloping. Guests are serenaded at 15-minute intervals by the pealing of the 16 tower bells of Grace Church, across the street, so light sleepers will want a room away from that side of the hotel.

139 Mathewson St. www.hotelprovidence.com. 855/861-8990 or 401/861-8000. 80 units. $199–$239 double. Valet parking $25. Small pets accepted ($75 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; small exercise room; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

NYLO Providence/Warwick Outside the center on the airport (south) side of the city, the NYLO’s minimalist loft rooms overlook the Pawtuxet River or have views of Downcity. Rooms are 300 square feet, suites double that, all with king-size beds and industrial-chic decor of brick walls and cement floors. The Skyline Suite adds a 300-square-foot private terrace. Some rooms have heating/air conditioning units behind the bed, which can be noisy at night. An outdoor patio lounge overlooks the river, and the in-house restaurant serves Italian/New England dishes. Shoppers like the NYLO’s location opposite the Warwick Mall, a complex of 80 stores, restaurants and a movie theater. Special airport packages include free parking and shuttle to TF Green Airport.

400 Knight St. (off Greenwich Ave.), Warwick. www.nylohotels.com/warwick. 401/734-4460. 163 rooms. $107–289 double. Free parking. Pets accepted ($50 per pet for up to 3 nights). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; allergy-free rooms available; Wi-Fi (free).

Providence Biltmore A grand staircase beneath the stunning Deco bronze ceiling dates the centrally located building to the 1920s, and a plaque in the lobby shows the nearly 7-foot-high water level reached during the villainous 1938 hurricane. From the lobby, the dramatic glass elevator shoots skyward, exiting outdoors to scoot up the side of the building. Most guest rooms are large (over half are suites averaging 600 sq. ft.), and California king beds are standard in all rooms. The in-house restaurant, McCormick & Schmick’s, specializes in seafood and steaks, with an Oyster Night every Thursday.

11 Dorrance St. www.providencebiltmore.com. 800/294-7709 or 401/421-0700. 292 units. $169–$234 double. Valet parking $24. Pets accepted ($35/night). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Renaissance Providence Here’s a story: In the late 1920s, the Masons were building a neoclassical temple a couple of blocks west of the State House. When they ran out of money, construction suddenly ended, leaving the building an empty shell. There it stood for 78 years, unoccupied, a magnet for graffiti vandals and thieves. A $100-million renovation by the Marriott company transformed it into this ambitious luxury hotel, which opened in 2007. Immediately, the Renaissance Providence rivaled the best the city has to offer. A grand lobby with a fireplace welcomes guests, and Temple, the flashy in-house restaurant-bar, was an instant hit with locals as well as out-of-towners. Two executive-level floors have a private club/lounge with honor bar. The hotel is a 5-minute walk from the Amtrak station and across from the State House.

5 Ave. of the Arts (formerly Brownell St.). www.renaissancehotels.com. 866/238-4218 or 800-468-3571. 272 units. $209–$299 double. Valet parking $30. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; executive-level rooms; fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi ($13/day).

Where to Eat in Providence

Providence has a sturdy Italian heritage, hence its profusion of tomato-sauce and pizza joints, especially on Federal Hill. That identity is changing, but a stroll along the Hill’s main drag, Atwells Avenue, can set off furious hunger alarms. Another fruitful strip to explore for lower-cost and ethnic dining options is that part of Thayer Street bordering the Brown University campus.

An interesting phenomenon in Providence, and indeed throughout the state, is its customer loyalty: Outstanding restaurants stay popular as long as they stay good.

Al Forno CREATIVE ITALIAN In the 1980s if you’d asked almost anyone in Providence the best place to eat, they’d most likely have said “Al Forno” without a second thought. When chef-owners Johanne Killeen & George Germon opened this Italian-influenced restaurant in 1980, farm-to-table was a new idea that didn’t even have a name yet, wood-fired ovens were rare, and Providence was just beginning to make a name as a dining mecca. That nearly four decades later Al Forno is still one of the city’s top dining spots is testament to its continuing excellence. Ingredients from New England farms and waters are transformed over hardwood charcoal and in blistering hot ovens, creating memorable dishes such as roasted stuffed rabbit, duck confit and roasted duck with grapes, or an entrée of wood-grilled and roasted vegetables. The signature dessert, Grand Cookie Finale, is so abundant that it comes with a bag for the leftovers.

577 South Water St. www.alforno.com. 401/273-9760. Reservations recommended. Main courses $24–$34. Tues–Fri 5–10pm; Sat 4–11pm. RIPTA bus 60.

Bacaro ITALIAN A standout for what might be called Italian tapas—small dishes that allow for an evening of grazing and tasting—Bacaro’s menu seems made for sharing with friends. Diners choose from 30 such cicchetti options here, from fried smelts with lemony aioli to wild boar sausage on crispy polenta crostini served with blueberry chutney. You can also order from an expansive salumeria menu of cured meats and robust cheeses—ask for advice and start there. Bacaro’s location on South Water Street offers views of the Providence River and is a logical destination after touring the historic east side of the city.

262 S. Water St. (near Williams St.). www.bacarorestaurant.net. 401/751-3700. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25–$35; cicchetti $5–$12. Tues–Sat 5–10pm (Sat from 4pm). RIPTA bus 35 or 78.

Cafe Nuovo INTERNATIONAL This spacious room of glass, marble, and burnished wood, on the ground floor of a downtown office tower, overlooks the confluence of the Moshassuck and Woonasquatucket rivers. (It makes an ideal overlook for the WaterFire events, p. 431.) Unlike some of its competitors, Cafe Nuovo takes reservations, is open for lunch and dinner, and impresses with every course, from dazzling appetizers to stunning pastries. The fare skips lightly among inspirations—Greek, Portuguese, and Japanese among them.

1 Citizens Plaza (access from Steeple St. bridge). www.cafenuovo.com. 401/421-2525. Reservations recommended. Main courses $31–$50. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. RIPTA bus 1 or 23 (5-min. walk from Kennedy Plaza).

CAV INTERNATIONAL No corporate design drudge had a hand in this warehouse interior, a Jewelry District pioneer. CAV is an acronym for “Cocktails/Antiques/Victuals,” and patrons are surrounded by tribal rugs, African carvings, and assorted antiques (most for sale). Turkish kilims under glass cover the tables. The resulting bohemian air is not unlike Greenwich Village in the 1960s. Select from such strenuous menu swings as pistachio-crusted crab cake with Sriracha aioli and taro root chips to such modern comfort foods as braised lamb with poppy seed port wine demi-glace, butternut squash custard, and Israeli couscous. Consult a map or the directions at the restaurant’s website before heading out.

14 Imperial Place (at Basset St.). www.cavrestaurant.com. 401/751-9164. Reservations recommended. Main courses $22–$32. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri 11:30am–1am; Sat 10am–10pm; Sun 10:30am–10pm. RIPTA bus 3, 22, or 92.

Chez Pascal FRENCH Located about 2 miles north on Hope Street from the Brown University campus, this warm little bistro is worth the trip. The kitchen works in the French tradition but isn’t dogmatic about it. The variety of house-made pâtés and charcuterie is unusually large, from a root vegetable terrine to the pork and fennel sausage. Pascal always offers a “local pork of the day” dish, but it also caters to non-meat-eaters with a vegetarian tasting menu that often features lentil ragout with roasted sugar pumpkin. Winning desserts have included pear upside-down cake with Great Hill blue cheese and walnuts, caramel sauce, and crème fraiche. Reserve well ahead.

960 Hope St. (at 9th St.). www.chez-pascal.com. 401/421-4422. Main courses $25–$31. Mon–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm, Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm. RIPTA bus line 1.

Garden Grille VEGETARIAN Animal-free meals are not so easy to find as you might expect in this college town, but a long-time favorite is this small restaurant a few steps across the town line into Pawtucket. Go for the food, not the atmosphere, which is non-existent and somewhat cramped. But the menu has something for almost every food preference: gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian, Kosher—and when possible, the vegetables come from local farms. Along with the expected quesadillas, stir-fry bowls, and veggie burgers, you’ll see seitan mushroom burgers, tofu BLTs with avocado or egg, pastrami seitan Reubens, and vegan mac ’n’ cheese. Meat-lovers will never miss the meat in Garden Grille’s tamales, stuffed full of mushrooms and sweet potatoes, with walnuts, quinoa polenta, wilted greens, and cumin-scented tomatoes.

big Tastes Hide in little Rhody

You’d think that, in an age of instant communication, no flavorful food tidbit would stay unknown for long. Regional specialties often become national staples—think Buffalo wings, Carolina blooming onions, Texas burritos. But Rhode Island’s food specialties remain mysteriously secret. Even residents of neighboring states are in the dark about a lot of them. So while you’re visiting, be sure to check out some of the following:

Stuffies: These come in as many versions as there are cooks. At Flo’s Clam Shack (p. 431), in Newport, big quahog clams are chopped up with hot and sweet peppers and bread crumbs, packed inside the two shell halves, and shut, the whole held together by a rubber band and baked.

Rhode Island clam chowder: This is a potato, onion, and clam (often quahog) soup of clear broth. It’s neither cream-based (such as the well-known New England chowder) nor tomato-based (such as Manhattan chowder).

Coffee milk and cabinets: Obligatory Rhody beverages. Coffee milk is made with milk and sweet coffee syrup (available in any Rhode Island grocery store). Cabinets are what most of the rest of America calls a milkshake (and some parts of New England call a frappe): milk, ice cream, and flavorings such as chocolate syrup.

Johnnycakes: Also spelled jonnycakes, these are breakfast fodder. Sometimes they’re as thin as crepes, sometimes as thick as griddlecakes. Their primary ingredient is cornmeal. Honey is a common topping.

New York System Wieners: These have only a passing acquaintance with Big Apple franks. In Rhode Island, the wieners are served on soft steamed buns and topped (usually) with a chili-type meat sauce, minced sweet onion, and mustard. Try them from Olneyville New York System, 2014 recipient of the James Beard Foundation America’s Classics Award (two Providence locations; see www.olneyvillenewyorksystem.com).

727 East Ave. (at Lafayette St.), Pawtucket. www.gardengrilleri.com. 401/726-2826. No reservations. Main courses $9–15. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm, Sun 11am–9pm. RIPTA bus line 1.

Gracie’s NEW AMERICAN Pin lights in the ceiling hint at the night sky, and white tablecloths and well-spaced tables carry out the romantic theme. The menu changes seasonally, but the first course might be house-made potato gnocchi or crispy veal sweetbreads with wild leeks. Carnivores will be more than sated by the lamb duo with bok choy, green garlic panisse, and beech mushrooms. Prix-fixe menus of three, five, seven, and nine courses are available with appropriate wine pairings.

194 Washington St. (1 block from Empire St.). www.graciesprov.com. 401/272-7811. Reservations advised. Main courses $26–$39; 3-course prix fixe $50. Tues–Sat 5–10pm.

Siena ITALIAN Federal Hill’s days as a tomato gravy and pizza destination are fading, replaced by upbeat, contemporary chefs and owners who value quality and are alert to trends. Promising “Tuscan Soul Food,” Siena draws all ages (including an occasional shrieking child). Waitstaff is patient and more knowledgeable and attentive than average. Antipasti and thin, wood-grilled, upscale pizzas may distract your attention from the rest of the card, but give full consideration to the pollo al diavolo, chicken breasts with an herb and hot red pepper rub; and the aragosta cioppino, a San Francisco fish stew of lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels, swordfish, and calamari in a spicy broth.

238 Atwells Ave. www.siena.com. 401/521-3311. Reservations advised. Main courses $15–$29. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri 5–11pm; Sat 4:30–11pm; Sun 3–9pm. RIPTA bus 92.

Providence Entertainment & Nightlife

This being a college town, there is no end of music options. A good source of information is www.goprovidence.com, which publishes a calendar of events and nightlife.

The Performing Arts

Big-ticket touring musicals on the order of Hamilton are showcased at the Providence Performing Arts Center, 220 Weybosset St. (www.ppacri.org; 401/421-ARTS [2787]). At the Trinity Repertory Company, 201 Washington St. (www.trinityrep.com; 401/351-4242), works by Shakespeare, and adaptations such as Marcus Gardley’s Black Odyssey, share the stage with the revival of classics like Little Shop of Horrors.

The Dunkin’ Donuts Center, 1 La Salle Square (www.dunkindonutscenter.com; 401/331-6700), hosts big-name performers, monster truck events, and NCAA basketball games.

Opera Providence (www.operaprovidence.org; 401/524-1638) stages productions at a variety of locations, including Blithewold (p. 440) in Bristol and Hopkins Square Park in Providence. The Rhode Island Philharmonic, 67 Waterman Ave., East Providence (www.ri-philharmonic.org; 401/248-7000) puts on one or two concerts a month from September through May, often at the Veterans Memorial Auditorium (1 Avenue of the Arts in Providence).

For art-house films and midnight cult movies, check the Avon Cinema, 260 Thayer St., at Meeting Street (www.avoncinema.com; 401/421-AVON [2866]).

The Club & Music Scene

Live concert venues include Alchemy on the second floor at 71 Richmond St. (www.alchemyri.com, 401/383-6336) and Fête Music Hall, 103 Dike St. (www.fetemusic.com; 401/383-1112). The Columbus Theatre is an old-fashioned theater, where you can see live bands, plays, and films in opulent surroundings of murals and stained glass, at 270 Broadway (www.columbustheatre.com; 401/621-9660). AS220, at 115 Empire St. (www.as220.org; 401/831-9327), is a community arts space for mostly local visual, musical, and performance artists, with events every day.

quick bites Out and About in Providence

Providence claims the invention of the diner, starting with a horse-drawn wagon transporting food down Westminster Street in 1872. The tradition is carried forward by the likes of the Seaplane Diner, 307 Allens Ave. (www.facebook.com/seaplanediner; 401/941-9547), a silver-sided classic with tableside jukeboxes.

While shopping in the Arcade, stop into Livi’s Pockets (www.livispockets.com) for locally sourced Middle Eastern street foods; Rogue Island Local Kitchen and Bar (www.rogueislandgroup.com), a burger joint/bar that sources local ingredients (ask for a rum drink, for example, and you’ll have a choice of New England brands); or New Harvest (www.newharvestcoffee.com), which serves locally roasted coffee, along with beer and whiskey.

Speaking of locally roasted coffee, if you’re shopping the boutiques along Wickenden Street, Coffee Exchange (207 Wickenden; www.thecoffeeexchange.com) is a local favorite. Wickenden also has an adorable crepe/cupcake cafe, The Duck and Bunny (312 Wickenden; www.theduckandbunny.com), which bills itself as a “snuggery.”

Another local culinary institution arrives in Kennedy Plaza on wheels every afternoon around 4:30pm. The grungy aluminum-sided Haven Bros. ( 401/861-7777) is a food tractor-trailer with a counter and six stools inside; it’s a good deal for decent burgers and even better fries, sold from its parking space next to City Hall. No new frontiers here, except that it hangs around until way past midnight to dampen the hunger pangs of clubgoers, lawyers, night people, and workaholic pols.

At the Trinity Brewhouse, 186 Fountain St. (www.trinitybrewhouse.com; 401/453-2337), home-brewed, award-winning beers are the main event. As the website puts it, “We sell heaven by the pint.” There’s often live music in the evenings.

Providence has plenty of bar choices, from after-work stops and quiet neighborhood retreats to raucous bar scenes. Downcity, there’s The Eddy, a small cocktail bar at 95 Eddy St. (www.eddybar.com; 401/831-3339), and Boombox, a karaoke lounge at the Dean Hotel (122 Fountain St.; www.thedeanhotel.com; 401/455-3316).

On the east side, The Wild Colonial Tavern, near Brown and RISDI at 250 South Water St. (www.wildcolonial.com; 401/621-5644) is an old brick bar with darts, pool tables, and occasional trivia nights. In good weather, The Hot Club at 25 Bridge St. in Fox Point (www.hotclubprov.com; 401/861-9007) has nice riverside tables.

On the west side of town, Lili Marlene’s (422 Atwells Ave.; 401/751-4996) is a darkened lounge on Federal Hill. If you’ve a taste for retro and kitsch, Ogie’s Trailer Park at 1155 Westminster St. (www.ogiestrailerpark.com; 401/383-8200) is a fun tiki bar on the West Side. The Avery, on Luongo Square (www.averyprovidence.com; 401/751-5920) is a classy little Art Deco bar hidden away in a residential neighborhood on the West Side. Justine’s ( 401/454-4440) is a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge hidden behind a store on Olneyville Square.

Bristol

16 miles SE of Providence; 15 miles N of Newport

About halfway between Providence and Newport, Bristol is perhaps the best-kept secret in Rhode Island. First settled in 1680, this beautiful waterfront town sits on a peninsula straddling the Narragansett and Mount Hope Bays. It makes for a soothing excursion from the urbanity of Providence and the concentration of sights and activity that is Newport.

Bristol is best known as home to the nation’s oldest 4th of July parade, which has run annually here since 1785. The parade, which now draws up to 200,000 spectators, is the highlight of the year for what some residents call “America’s Most Patriotic Town.” The main boulevard, Hope Street, replaces the double yellow line in favor of a red, white, and blue band marking the 1.8-mile parade route.

Bristol’s past also includes the notoriety of being the former home to the DeWolfs, the largest slave trading family in U.S. history. During much of the 1700s and the first decade of the 1800s, Rhode Island was the business epicenter of the “Triangle Trade,” the trade of rum from New England, molasses from the West Indies, and enslaved peoples from Africa.

Today, though, Bristol is known for its historic homes and quaint downtown. In the past 15 years, it has undergone a gentrification from industrial town to tourist haven, with shops, a few fine dining spots, and cafes comprising a landscape of what used to be abandoned mills and fading industry.

Note that in the off season, November through April, most museums and small inns close.

Essentials

Arriving

From Providence, it’s fastest to take I-195 to Route 136, but the more scenic route is to take I-195 to exit 7 and follow Route 114S toward Barrington. Follow Route 114 all the way into Bristol; on the way, you’ll pass marinas and historic buildings and traverse scenic bridges.

Visitor Information

Tourism information (www.explorebristolri.com; 401/253-7000) is available in the Town Hall at 10 Court St. (Mon–Fri 8:30am–4pm), and in the Burnside Building at 400 Hope St. (Sat–Sun 10am–5pm).

Exploring Bristol

The city’s quiet charm is in its well-preserved historic district, which runs along Hope Street and down side roads to Thames Street (pronounced “TH-aymz”), which borders the Bristol Harbor. Start here and stroll past homes dating back to the 1700s and 1800s. Former industrial sites at the harbor have been gentrified into high-end condos in converted mill buildings. There is 1- and 2-hour parking available along most streets, and a municipal parking lot on Thames.

Bristol was named one of the Distinctive Destinations in the U.S. by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, which called it a “quintessential New England waterfront town” with an “unwavering commitment” to preservation. Also cited by the Trust are town attractions Blithewold Mansion, Coggeswell Farm Museum, Herreshoff Marine Museum and America’s Cup Hall of Fame, and Colt State Park, all listed below.

Blithewold Mansion, Gardens, and Arboretum HISTORIC HOME This 45-room waterfront estate was built in 1907 as a summer home to Augustus Van Wickle. Featuring beautiful gardens and landscaping, it’s now a museum that feels like a rural English manor. Open for tours, the estate is preserved much as it was in the early 1900s. The gardens bordering the water are a particular treat, and in mid- to late April, thousands of blooming daffodils provide a magnificent scene.

101 Ferry Rd. (Rte. 114). www.blithewold.org. 401/253-2707. $15 adults, $14 seniors, $11 military and full-time students, $6 children 6–17, children 5 and under free. House open mid-Apr to mid-Oct only, Tues–Sun 10am–4pm. Gardens open daily 10am–4pm year-round.

Coggeshall Farm Museum LIVING HISTORY MUSEUM Set on 50 acres abutting Colt State Park (see p. 441), this museum is worth a visit even if just to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere of centuries-old farmland. In its 1790s farmhouse and several small antique farm buildings, costumed staff answer questions and demonstrate farm life of the 18th century.

Off Poppasquash Rd. (turn off Rte./Hope St. and follow signs). www.coggeshallfarm.org. 401/253-9062. Weekdays $5 adults, $3 seniors and children; weekends $7 adults, $5 seniors and children. Tues–Sun 10am–4pm; closed some holidays.

Herreshoff Marine Museum and America’s Cup Hall of Fame MUSEUM This maritime museum highlights the history of the Herreshoff Manufacturing Company, a boat builder of everything from U.S. Navy torpedo boats to championship America’s Cup yachts; it was once the centerpiece of industry in Bristol. The facility houses the America’s Cup Hall of Fame and features a collection of 35 boats, including the famous “America3,” winner of the 1992 America’s Cup race.

1 Burnside St. (off Hope St./Rte. 114). www.herreshoff.org. 401/253-5000. Admission $3. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm.

Outdoor Activities

Once the estate of Samuel Colt, of the same family as the famous firearms manufacturer, Colt State Park (www.riparks.com; 401/253-7482) encompasses 464 acres of land bordering Narragansett Bay. Open year-round sunrise to sunset, it offers stunning views over the water, especially at sunset. There are trails for biking, walking, jogging, or cycling, and bridle paths for horseback riding. In warmer months, families come for the day to barbecue, play volleyball, and otherwise enjoy the bucolic atmosphere. You’ll also find anglers casting lines and kayakers paddling on the bay. Entry and parking are free, but there is a $2 charge for picnic tables and grills.

The East Bay Bike Path (www.dot.ri.gov/community/bikeri/eastbay.php) is a 14.5-mile paved trail running between Bristol and Providence, built atop a converted train track. After passing through Colt State Park, it spends much of the trip skimming Narragansett Bay. The trail is used by runners, skaters, and walkers as well as bikers. Access to the path is free.

Shopping in Bristol

The most interesting shopping in Bristol is in the historic downtown area. The highest concentration of shops is along Hope Street (Route 114), with more on Thames Street and the short side streets between them. Jesse/James Antiques, 44 State St. (www.jessejamesantiques.wordpress.com; 401/253-2240), open since 1992, has notable pieces of china, glassware, and period furniture. Harbor Bath & Body, 251 Thames St. ( 401/396-9170), offers a variety of natural and organic bath products, many of which are made in New England. Epilogues, 274 Hope St. ( 401/254-8958), mixes antiques and vintage finds with handcrafted works.

Where to Stay in Bristol

There are a handful of inns and bed-and-breakfasts in Bristol, but no large hotels, so plan to pay slightly more for a room here than you would at a major hotel chain. Summer months are busy, so book a room well in advance at the end of May—when Roger Williams University holds commencement ceremonies—and around the July 4th holiday.

Bristol Harbor Inn Situated at the newly renovated Thames Street Landing complex along the waterfront, the Bristol Harbor Inn has a range of options, from standard rooms to waterfront rooms to plush suites with gas fireplaces. The least expensive units are no-frills but perfectly agreeable, while the pricier suites are more finely adorned. This is not a destination hotel but rather a good, basic, affordable alternative to higher-priced B&Bs nearby.

259 Thames St. www.bristolharborinn.com. 866/254-1444 or 401/254-1444. 40 units. Apr–Oct $135–$249 double; Nov–Mar $95–$135 double. Rates include continental breakfast. 2-night minimum weekends Apr–Oct. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; pub; spa; Internet (free).

William’s Grant Inn In the center of town, five impeccably furnished guest rooms welcome guests to an historic Federal-style clapboard home built in 1808 by William Bradford III, the third generation of one of the original settler families. Three rooms have gas fireplaces and all have private baths; rooms are bright and airy, decorated in a cozy country style with bed quilts and antiques but also up-to-date features like air-conditioning.

154 High St. www.williamsgrantinn.com. 800/596-4222 or 401/253-4222. 5 rooms. June–Sept $214–$327, Oct–May $180–$282. Rates include full breakfast. Free parking. 2- or 3-night minimum stay some holiday weekends. Amenities: Guest barbeque area; Wi-Fi (free).

After Dark in Bristol

If you’re spending the night in Bristol, less than 5 miles north in Warren is The Galactic Theater (508 Main St.; www.galactictheatre.com; 401/555-5555), a fun entertainment venue run by the lead singer of a local rockabilly band. There’s something going on there most nights, from vintage film screenings to open-mic nights where aspiring musicians make their bid for stardom.

Where to Eat in Bristol

Once strictly home to family restaurants, sub shops, and pizza joints, Bristol has seen a number of upscale restaurants pop up in recent years. For coffee and pastry or a custom-built lunch sandwich, there’s Angelina’s (301 Hope St.; 401/396-5592) and The Beehive Café, overlooking the harbor at 10 Franklin St. ( 401/396-9994).

DeWolf Tavern NEW AMERICAN Located in a renovated 1818 warehouse, this interesting tavern’s decor consists of the building’s original stone and mortar walls and exposed wooden beams. The menu is contemporary American with a tilt toward Bristol’s seafaring heritage and a dash of the East: steamed mussels in coconut milk with curry leaf and chili; tandoori marinated swordfish. Don’t miss roasted Brussels sprouts and cornbread hash from the selection of side dishes.

259 Thames St. www.dewolftavern.com. 401/254-2005. Main courses $14–$42. Mon–Fri 11:30am–10:30pm, Sat–Sun 8am–2pm and 2:30–10:30pm.

Le Central Bistro FRENCH Typical French bistro dishes served in this lively local gathering spot include traditional steak frites, salade Niçoise, charcuterie plates, country style pâtés, Moroccan chicken, and rack of lamb. Lunch specialties include a bistro burger with fries or lobster BLT. Try the warm lemon-ricotta crepes with seasonal fruits for dessert.

483 Hope St. www.lecentralbristol.net. 401/396-9965. Main courses $16–$24. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm, Sun 10am–2pm; dinner daily 5pm “til closing.”

The Lobster Pot SEAFOOD A consistent winner of Rhode Island Monthly’s Best of RI Award for seafood, this traditional waterfront restaurant has sat overlooking the Bristol harbor since 1929. For all its fame, the atmosphere is friendly and unpretentious. Sleek it isn’t; it’s a traditional shore-hall, but with white tablecloths—the image of places all along the New England shore. Build your own seafood platter of littlenecks, cherrystones, oysters, lobster, and jumbo shrimp, or order from a menu of traditional seafood dishes created from impeccably fresh fish and shellfish.

119 Hope St. www.lobsterpotri.com. 401/253-9100. Main courses $17–$40. May–Oct Mon–Fri noon–9pm, Sat–Sun noon–10pm; Nov–Apr Tues–Sun noon–9pm.

Newport

71 miles S of Boston; 178 miles NE of New York City

Look out today across the marina filled with pleasure craft and it’s hard to imagine how vital Newport was during the Colonial and Federal periods, rivaling Boston and even New York as a center of New World trade and prosperity. In the following century, wealthy industrialists, railroad tycoons, coal magnates, financiers, and robber barons were drawn to the area, especially between the Civil War and World War I. They bought up property at the ocean’s rim to build what they called summer “cottages”—which were, in fact, mansions of immoderate design and proportions, patterned after European palaces.

Today’s Newport reflects all these eras. Immediately east and north of the business district are blocks of Colonial, Federal, and Victorian houses, many of them designated National Historic Sites. Happily, they are not frozen in amber but very much in use as residences, restaurants, offices, and shops. Taken together, they are as visually appealing as the 40-room cottages of the super-rich, the Gilded Age sites that draw so many visitors to Newport.

Newport has been spared the coarser intrusions that afflict so many coastal resorts. T-shirt emporia have been kept within reasonable limits—a remarkable feat, considering that some 4 million visitors come through its narrow streets every year.

Despite Newport’s prevailing image as a collection of ornate mansions and regattas for the rich and famous, the city is largely middle class and not too excessively priced. Scores of inns and B&Bs ensure lodging even during festival weeks, at rates from budget to ultra-luxury level. In almost every respect, this is the “First Resort” of the New England coast.

Essentials

Arriving

BY CAR Newport occupies the southern tip of Aquidneck Island in Narragansett Bay and is connected to the mainland by bridges and a ferry. From New York City, take I-95 to exit 3, picking up Route 138 east and crossing the Newport toll bridge, which takes you slightly north of the downtown district; the drive should take around 3½ hours. From Boston and the north, it’s a 1½-hour drive; take Route 24 through Fall River, picking up Route 114 into town.

Newport

BY BUS The Rhode Island Public Transit Authority, or RIPTA (www.ripta.com; 800/244-0444 or 401/781-9400), has buses that run between Providence’s Kennedy Plaza and the Newport Visitor Information Center. The trip is 75 minutes and the one-way fare is $1.75. Peter Pan Bus Lines (www.peterpanbus.com) also provides service from Providence, but it takes twice as long, requires a transfer, and costs $21. There’s no reason to use them when RIPTA is so much faster and cheaper.

Visitor Information

The Newport Gateway Transportation and Visitor Center, 23 America’s Cup Ave. (www.gonewport.com; 800/976-5122 or 401/845-9123), adjacent to the bus station, is open daily from 9am to 5pm. It has attendants on duty to help with lodging and local events.

Getting Around