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CHAPTER 1

Setting Up Shop

The heart of your workshop will be your lathe. If you have yet to purchase one or if you are looking to purchase a new one, I have included some guidelines to aid you in your decision-making process. We’ll also take a look at some of the other tools that are useful when making pens.

Choosing a lathe

Purchasing a lathe is a personal choice, and one that cannot be made solely on the recommendations of others! When considering the purchase of a lathe, take time to ask yourself the following questions.

What Type of Turning Will You Want to Accomplish?

Lathes come in a variety of sizes and styles, and it is important to identify the type of turning you would like to do before you make a purchase. Investing in the wrong type of lathe can limit the number and variety of pieces that you can create. And, if you are a beginner, the wrong type of lathe purchase can make your first turning experience less than wonderful!

For this book, I used a variable-speed mini-lathe. As the name suggests, mini-lathes are smaller than regular full-size lathes (see Figure 1.2) and are particularly well suited to smaller projects such as pens, pencils, bottle stoppers, ornaments, boxes, smaller bowls, and vessels (see Figure 1.1).

Will You Concentrate your Energies Strictly on Pens?

Turning is a great hobby and, even if you only turn pens, there will be more than enough pens to keep you very busy. Pens come in all shapes and sizes and can be made from a variety of materials including, but not limited to, all sorts of domestic and exotic hardwoods, stabilized woods, antler, plastics, acrylics, and solid surface materials such as Corian.

In this book, you will learn how to turn many different pen styles. You will also learn to turn a sampling of some of the most common materials used in turning pens. Using your imagination to combine different styles and materials will keep you busy with a never-ending array of projects for your new hobby.

Are You Interested in Turning Smaller Bowls or Vessels Now or Possibly in the Future?

As mentioned before, the mini-lathe is a great tool for a variety of additional small projects, including miniature bowls, lidded boxes, assorted spindle projects, and much more. If you are even remotely interested in expanding your hobby to include more than pens, you’ll want to take that interest into consideration when choosing a lathe.

Figure 1.1. Mini-lathes, like this Jet mini-lathe, are smaller than regular-size lathes and are well suited to smaller projects.

How Much Money Are You Willing to Commit to your Purchase?

Lathes vary greatly in price depending on the manufacturer and the accessories included. General pricing can run anywhere from around one hundred to hundreds of dollars. Again, think long and hard about how you want to use your lathe. Buying a more expensive lathe now may make better use of your money than buying an inexpensive lathe and then a second more expensive lathe shortly thereafter.

How Much Room Do You Have to Devote to your Lathe?

Mini-lathes are just that: miniature lathes. They measure approximately three feet across and about one foot wide. They are perfectly suited to smaller workshop areas, such as those in a garage or a corner of a basement. My mini-lathe fits comfortably in my one-car garage, and it shares that space with a dust collector, a band saw, a contractor’s table saw, a scroll saw, a wide variety of shop tools, and uncounted blocks and boards of wood that will soon turn into beautiful lathe projects.

Are You Interested in a Floor-Mounted Lathe or a Benchtop Lathe?

Your choice of a floor-mounted lathe or a benchtop lathe is determined by the amount of workspace you have (see Figures 1.1 and 1.2). Choose a benchtop lathe if space is limited. If you choose a benchtop lathe, make sure that the bench is positioned correctly so that you aren’t turning on a lathe that’s too low or too high. Make sure that your lathe is bolted to your bench top to avoid vibration. A floor-mounted lathe should have a sturdy mount, preferably one specifically designed for the lathe.

Do You Want a Belt-Driven Lathe or One with a Variable Speed Control?

Switching belts can take time out of your schedule, and, if you are someone who has a limited amount of time to turn, you may opt for the variable speed control (see Figure 1.3). Since the first edition of The Pen Turner’s Workbook was written, I have switched over to a variable-speed mini-lathe for both the convenience of not having to change belts and the ease of use when applying my finishes.

Figure 1.2. A floor-mounted lathe, like this 14" Jet lathe, will work well for a variety of projects if you have the necessary space for it in your workshop.

Figure 1.3. A lathe that requires switching belts to change speeds can be very inefficient if time is limited. Lathes with variable-speed controls (inset) change speeds with the simple turn of a knob.

TIPS FOR CHOOSING A MINI-LATHE

1. Visit various woodworking outlets and inspect the lathes for the features that are important to you.

2. Check the Internet for reviews of the lathe you are interested in purchasing.

3. Personally test as many of these lathes as you can. Do not just let the salesperson demonstrate the lathe to you. In most cases, the salesperson will be very proficient on his or her piece of equipment.

4. Turn the lathe on and listen to it. Change speeds on the lathe either by changing the belt (now you will see how difficult it is to change the speed) or by using the dial on the lathe with a variable speed control.

5. Place your hand on the headstock and note how much vibration the lathe is generating. Conduct the point-to-point test (see Figure 1.4). Insert a drive spur with a point into the headstock and insert a live center with a point into the tailstock and bring the two together. Now turn the lathe on and check for accuracy. If the points do not line up precisely point to point even while running, walk away and do not look back, even if the salesperson is offering a “great” deal. If the lathe doesn’t run straight, nothing you turn will be straight. Remember the old axiom: it is always best to afford the best you can because quality usually is reflective of the price.

6. Finally, check that the lathe you intend to purchase is manufactured by a reputable company, and find out exactly what the warranty includes.

Figure 1.4. Check the accuracy of the lathe by doing a point-to-point test with the headstock and the tailstock.

Ancillary equipment

There is always something new in the pen-making world. The following pieces of equipment and accessories are not necessary, but they are nice to have because they offer you faster and easier ways to prepare your pen blanks.

Drill press and drill-centering vise: These are used to center and drill perfectly vertical holes in your pen blanks in preparation for inserting the brass pen tubes (see Figure 1.5).

Barrel trimmer and hand drill: These tools are used to square the end of the pen blank to the barrel of the pen tube (see Figure 1.6). As an alternative, make a squaring jig for the disk sander (Figure 1.11).

Band saw, chop saw, or table saw: A chop saw or table saw can reduce boards to pen blank material. A band saw also can reduce large burls or irregular stock (see Figure 1.7).

Grinding system: To sharpen your tools, you will need to have a grinding system. A bench grinder is an ideal way to sharpen your turning tools. For beginners, and even for turners with experience, grinding jigs offer the best solution for placing sharp, consistent edges on your tools (see Figure 1.8).

Figure 1.5. A drill-centering vise helps you precisely drill a vertical hole through the pen blank.

Figure 1.6. A barrel trimmer squares the end of the pen blank with the inside of the pen tube.

Figure 1.7. Use a band saw or a table saw to cut your own pen blanks to size.

Figure 1.8. A bench grinder puts a sharp edge on your turning tools.

Drilling chuck: If you do not have a drill press or even if you do, this lathe accessory will prove invaluable in drilling straight holes in your pen blanks (see Figure 1.9).

Drill lube: Spray Dri-Cote lubricant on your drill bits prior to drilling to reduce frictional burning (Figure 1.10).

Squaring jig and disc sander: Instead of using a barrel trimmer to square the ends of the pen blank, a squaring jig and disc sander can be used (Figure 1.11).

Acrylic pen buffing system: Use this buffing setup to remove any scratches from acrylic material. Once you buff your pens you will never go back to not buffing them! This accessory will also aid in finishing antler and all CA finishes (Figure 1.12).

Figure 1.9. A drilling chuck mounted in the headstock can hold the blank for drilling centered holes.

Figure 1.10. Lubricate drill bits to reduce burning from friction.

Figure 1.11. A disk-sander squaring jig, made from aluminum angle iron, puts a square end on a pen blank.

Figure 1.12. Soft cloth buffing wheels charged with polishing compound will put a gleam on most finishes.

Selecting pen turning tools

There are many manufacturers of turning tools today. Search the Internet for turning tools and you will be inundated with information on turning tools and the numerous companies that make them. You will find that each company claims its tools are the best and will give you the cleanest cut while holding an edge longer than any of its competitors. The reality of the situation for today’s turning needs is that you have two main choices: You can choose carbon steel tools or you can choose tools made of high-speed steel (HSS).

Carbon steel tools are just that: tools made from carbon steel. These tools are not as expensive as tools made from high-speed steel. Carbon steel tools will not keep a sharp edge as long as high-speed steel and will dull faster depending on the material you will be cutting.

There are many grades of high-speed steel. They are identified by M1, M2, M7, and M50, with M1 being the most expensive grade and also the most brittle. Today, most of the high-speed steel tools are made from the M2-grade high-speed steel or better. When turning woods and plastics, all grades of high-speed steel tools will far outlast the lesser expensive carbon steel tools. For my money, the high-speed steel is a better value. Because everyone has his own budget, only you can decide which will be the better value for your own dollar.

Now that you have selected which steel you want, which manufacturer do you purchase from? There are many reputable manufacturers of turning tools. Here again, the Internet can be a valuable resource in choosing the correct manufacturer for your needs.

The basic turning tools that I recommend to my students are sometimes packaged as a set or can be purchased separately. The high-speed steel set of pen-making tools (see Figure 1.13) consists of a ⅛" parting tool, a ⁵/₁₆" roughing gouge, a ¼" spindle gouge (see Figure 1.14), a ½" skew (see Figure 1.15), and a ½" Spindlemaster (a unique tool that is a cross between a skew and a spindle gouge). (The skew has received a lot of bad press, and it has been labeled the “white knuckle” tool because it is a difficult tool to master when you are just beginning your turning experience. However, with a little practice it is a very valuable tool with many purposes, including extra-clean finishing cuts.) This basic set of turning tools will offer the broadest range for both pen turning and smaller projects.

Figure 1.13. Pictured from top to bottom: a ⅛" parting tool, a ⁵/₁₆" roughing gouge, a ¼" spindle gouge, a ½" skew, and a ½" Spindlemaster (a unique tool that is a cross between a skew and a spindle gouge).

Figure 1.14. A spindle gouge is used primarily for turning beads and coves on pens. It is a good addition to a beginner’s toolbox.

Figure 1.15. A skew is a difficult tool to master, but, once you have learned how to use it, it will become a heavy hitter in your arsenal of turning tools.

Turning Tools for the ‘Sharpening Challenged’

A dull tool can be dangerous and will not offer the best finish for your work in progress. If you are having difficulty sharpening your tools or you cannot keep a sharp edge on them, there are turning tools on the market that have replaceable carbide tips that are coated with titanium nitride (see Figure 1.16). The titanium nitride coating offers a longer tip life at higher turning speeds and aids in producing smoother surfaces for your project while maintaining a longer-lasting, sharper cutting edge.

Using the nitride-coated tip technology offers the turner with no sharpening skills the ability to change a dull edge to a sharp edge with little effort.

Mandrels

You will need to purchase a mandrel if you want to make pens. A mandrel is a round steel rod that is held in the lathe headstock spindle (see Figure 1.17). The headstock will have a morse taper hole in the spindle that will either be a #1 morse taper or a #2 morse taper. For example, the Jet mini-lathe, the Delta midi-lathe, and the Fisch lathe all use a #2 morse taper, whereas the Carba-Tec and Sherline lathes use #1 morse tapers. Check the lathe you purchase to obtain the mandrel with the correct morse taper.

Mandrels come in two sizes, 7mm or 8mm, with either adjustable or fixed lengths. On some 7mm mandrels, the center rod can be adjustable. The advantage to the adjustable mandrel is that the shaft can be moved in or out to any length to suit a number of different pen blanks without using spacer bushings. Also, if you choose to turn just one piece of the pen at a time, this is your best choice for a mandrel. The 8mm mandrel is sometimes called a precision mandrel, which incorporates a thicker-diameter center steel rod than the standard 7mm mandrel. This thicker-diameter center steel rod helps to prevent “whip” while turning. Whip occurs when extensive pressure is placed on the tailstock, causing the end of the mandrel to whip, or not to turn evenly. This motion will cause your pen blank to turn oval instead of round. Some pen kit manufacturers like this thicker mandrel for their larger-style pens. Another accessory to help minimize whip is a mandrel saver tailstock center (Figure 1.18). This product will slide directly over the 7mm (A) mandrel and press against the bushings with no pressure on the mandrel shaft, thus helping you make a more concentric turning. When you purchase a pen kit, the manufacturer of the kit will inform you which mandrel it uses.

Figure 1.16. Tools with replaceable carbide tips provide an alternative to sharpening.

Figure 1.17. A good mandrel is a necessity for pen turning. A 7mm mandrel, sometimes called an A mandrel, is shown on top, and an 8mm mandrel, sometimes called a B mandrel, is shown on the bottom.

Turning Between Centers

Turning between centers (TBC) does not use a mandrel and will necessitate a few additional tools (Figure 1.19). The popularity of TBC is on the rise, because with this system you will get a more concentric and therefore better turning. By not using mandrels you will greatly reduce if not eliminate the whip action associated with standard mandrels. To get started turning between centers you will need the following items: a 60° dead center to be mounted into the headstock of the lathe and a 60° live center to be mounted into the tailstock of your lathe (Figure 1.20). Before you buy these accessories, you need to know if your headstock and tailstock have a #1 Morse taper or a #2 MT. Just because you have a 60° dead and live center does not automatically mean you will get a better turning if your lathe is not in proper alignment. Mount both centers and make sure they match up point to point (Figure 1.21).

You’ll also need a different set of bushings that are designed for turning between centers. They can be made from steel or from Delrin plastic (see Figure 1.22). The TBC bushings have a deeper chamfer than regular bushings and they are longer, so they penetrate deep into the pen tube and give it more stability. Steel bushings will last a lot longer than Delrin, but Delrin bushings have one distinct advantage over steel—they do not leave behind gray steel dust that could contaminate lighter colored woods when sanding.

Figure 1.18. The mandrel saver (left) fits right over the regular tailstock live center.

Figure 1.19. Turning between centers does not use a mandrel but does require a 60° dead center in the headstock (left), and a 60° live center in the tailstock (right).

Figure 1.20. The 60° centers fit into the lathe spindles with #1 or #2 Morse tapers.

Figure 1.21. For accurate turning the lathe centers must meet precisely point to point.

Figure 1.22. Bushings made of steel (left) or Delrin plastic (right) mount the blank between the 60° centers

Safety in the workshop

We all know which practices are safe and which ones can be dangerous when working in the shop. However, the reality is that we do not always practice what we know to be the right thing to do! When it comes to using a lathe, it is important to do the right thing or you can get into trouble very fast. By observing the following few safety tips, we can have a safer work environment to spur the creative genius inside us all.

Wear protective eyeglasses and/or a full face shield. This is the most obvious safety tip, and, believe it or not, it is also the one that is most ignored. It only takes one small flying chip to scratch your cornea; and then in the back of your mind you can hear your mother say, “See, I told you it would take your eye out!” The moral is wear eye protection!

Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry or have long hair dangling around your work in progress. Pull back your hair by putting it in a ponytail or under a hat, and remove any loose jewelry (see Figure 1.23). Tuck in shirttails and roll up sleeves or leave them buttoned. Do not lean over the lathe while it is running because it may just catch your clothing!

Do not touch your work piece while it is in motion on the lathe. This sounds simple, but people still have a tendency to touch a work piece while it is still moving. If you must touch it, do so lightly and on the top of the work. Never touch the work piece in front of the tool rest where your finger can get caught in between the tool rest and the work piece. That will definitely make you a very unhappy person!

Dust collection of some form is a must! When used in conjunction with the dust collection hood attached to the back of the lathe (see Figure 1.24), the one-horsepower dust collector located to the left of the lathe will remove most of the airborne dust particles as you are turning and sanding (see Figure 1.25). It offers strong suction to draw dust away from the operator.

A stand-alone dust mask used in conjunction with this system will offer solid dust protection to the operator. However, if this type of collection system is not available, a dust mask of some type would be a minimum for respiratory protection. This measure is necessary because some woods can be toxic to individuals who are sensitive to particular woods, such as rosewood, cocobolo, and many spalted woods.

Figure 1.23. Keep loose hair and clothing away from the lathe.

Figure 1.24. A dust collection system will remove dust and chips from the air as you turn. Coupled with a dust mask, this system will provide solid protection for your respiratory system.

The best protection offered is a combination face shield with air filtration. This type of lightweight system combines a face and eye shield with respiratory protection, which is a great addition to any shop (see Figure 1.26).

Be relaxed in front of your lathe. A good starting position when standing in front of your lathe should be with your feet about shoulders’ width apart (see Figure 1.27). The centerline of your pen should be slightly above or in line with your elbow when your elbow is in a resting position by your side.

Proper lighting is a must. You have to see your work before you can effectively turn your work (see Figure 1.28).

Figure 1.25. A dust collector will remove most airborne dust particles created by turning and sanding.

Figure 1.26. Protection from dust is essential. Use a dust ventilation system, as shown here, or any combination of other dust collection/ protection devices on the market.

Figure 1.27. A comfortable stance is important when you are working at your mini-lathe. Stand with your feet about shoulders’ width apart. Your elbow should be even with or slightly above the level of the piece you are turning.

Figure 1.28. Shop set-up includes not just a good lathe, but good lighting and dust protection as well.