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ОглавлениеSYMBOLS, TIPS, AND TOOLS
The Fold Symbol and the Proper Way to Fold
1 I’m using a square piece of paper which is yellow on one side and white on the other.
2 The arc with a circle on one end and an arrowhead pointing to a tiny circle on the other is called the folding symbol. In this instance it means you should fold the square in half diagonally.
3 To properly make this fold, begin by lifting the bottom right corner and lining it up with the upper right corner. I am curling and not folding the paper.
4 Very carefully align the corners so that they perfectly match (for illustrative purposes, my corners are slightly out of alignment in this photo).
5 Hold the corner down firmly with your left index finger while you apply pressure to the curl with the fingers on your right hand.
6 Commit the fold with your index finger.
7 Your model should look like this.
The Flip Symbol
When you see the flip symbol you should turn your paper over.
Fold and then Unfold Symbol
1 This is the fold and unfold symbol. When you see this symbol you should perform all the steps for the fold symbol just as you did on the top of the opposite page.
2 Now unfold the fold you made.
3 Your square should look like this. Notice that the fold you just made is represented by a narrow line. Normally there won’t be afterglow associated with the fold and then unfold symbol, although I did add afterglow to this diagram to show you where the surface in step 2 went.
The Fold on Both Sides Symbol
1 When you see this symbol, begin by performing the fold indicated on the side facing you.
2 Next, flip your model.
3 Perform the mirror image of the fold you made in step 1 on the other side of your model.
4 Your model would look like this. Next, flip it.
5 Now you have performed the same fold on both sides of your model.
How to Make a Crush-Fold
We make crush-folds in almost every leaf we create. We also use the crush-fold in step 19 of the Basic Flower Form (page 44). Making a good crush fold is a challenge, but obsessing over it is a complete waste of time. None of the crush-folds described in this book will be visible in a completed sculpture.
1 A crush-fold is called for whenever there’s a pocket created by another fold. Narrowing the stem of this leaf created two pockets. We’re going to crush-fold the pocket on the right.
2 All you do is crush the pocket with a finger.
3 Notice that the pocket on the right has been flattened.
How to Make a Pinch-Fold
A pinch-fold is required whenever there isn’t an easy way to make the fold. A pinch-fold, in this book, will always be made on an existing fold line. I also use the same symbol to denote pushing the paper (see the next section).
You will find a detailed explanation of the pinch-fold on page 43.
How to Make a Collapse and the Push Symbol
A collapse is a complex fold where your model folds into itself. The most familiar item you’ve seen collapse-fold is an umbrella. The fold is made up of pre-installed folds which set up the collapse. This fold will seem impossible at first, until suddenly your square collapses!
You will find a detailed explanation of a collapse on page 45.
How to Make a Book-Fold
We call it a book-fold because it’s just like turning the pages of a book. This fold always involves a shape that has several layers. The layers are usually connected to an axis, just like a book’s pages are connected to its binding. The layers can be rotated just like turning the pages of a book.
In this example, a flap is being book-folded from right to left. Notice that after the book-fold there will be three flaps on the left and only one on the right.
The Zoom Symbol
The zoom symbol means the scale in diagrams has changed between steps. As I fold a model it will get smaller, so I will increase the size of the diagrams so you can see them more clearly.
The zoom symbol indicates that the diagram scale has increased.
Mountain and Valley Folds
No origami book would be complete without an explanation of mountain and valley folds. The most important thing to remember is that almost every fold prescribed in this book is a valley fold. Valley folds are denoted by a green dashed line. On the rare occasion when there is a mountain fold, it will be denoted by a red dashed line.
Notice that the paper moves up on each side of a valley fold, and down on each side of a mountain fold.
Fold Quality
The quality of your folds is important. Most people think that a flap should be folded so that its edge lands as closely as possible to the reference line without going beyond it. In fact, most flaps created early in a model’s folding pattern will become components of other flaps and points yet to be completed. Experienced folders have learned that it is important to leave a small gap, preferably about as wide as the thickness of two sheets of paper, between any edge and its reference line.
Always leave small gap between the edge of the surface being folded and the fold or edge it is being folded to.
If a fold needs to be reversed, always sharpen it. You can use a popsicle stick to sharpen folds on origami paper, but for painted paper you should use a wallpaper seam roller (shown in background).
Symbols Used in This Book
The fold symbol
The fold and then unfold symbol
The crush-fold symbol
The pinch-fold symbol
The collapse symbol
The flip symbol
The fold on both sides symbol
The book-fold symbol
Tools and Supplies You Will Need
1 Newspaper
2 Latex gloves
3 Paper, either US 8 ½” x 11”, or A4
4 Hot melt glue gun
5 Shallow pan, approximately 11 x 17 inches, or 28 x 43 centimeters
6 Assorted acrylic paints
7 Wood glue
8 A large quantity of white acrylic paint
9 Small, shallow cups for mixing paint
10 A wallpaper seam roller or a popsicle stick
11 Tools, including pliers, wire cutters, scissors and tweezers
12 Assorted brushes
(not shown) Artist’s medium bodied matte acrylic emulsion
The Web and Other Resources
There is a vast amount of origami-related information available in books and on the Web. I often add an origami hummingbird from one of my favorite books, Advanced Origami by Michael LaFosse (Tuttle, 2005). There are thousands of folding videos on YouTube.com and folding diagrams on websites like Scribd.com. Most importantly, there are two websites devoted to making botanical sculptures from paper, www.Benagami.com and www.OrigamiBonsai.org.
There are also numerous opportunities to sell your work online. Etsy, Artfire, and DaWanda are websites which offer inexpensive e-commerce for handmade goods. You’ll need to figure out shipping costs, but other than that, these sites make selling your work really easy.
www.Benagami.com features my latest work and information about my studio.
www.OrigamiBonsai.org is a creative forum for people interested in making plants using origami and makigami techniques.
An origami hummingbird feeds at an origami flower.
How to Pack a Sculpture for Shipping
Whether you’re selling your work or giving it away, you need to know how to ship your sculptures successfully. While origami ikebana arrangements look delicate, they’re actually quite resilient when shipped because they have very little mass. This means the boxes they’re shipped in can take a fair amount of abuse without damaging the sculpture inside. When packing your sculpture, be very careful when executing steps 1 and 6, described below. For full disclosure, I have to admit that I broke my sculpture’s stamens in step 1. I would normally not put a sculpture inside a box as shown in step 1 without securing the flaps on one side first. Securing the flaps on one side ensures that the box won’t collapse unexpectedly.
You should also consider double-boxing every sculpture you ship. In other words, pack the box as described below inside another, larger box. You should never put any additional loose items inside the inner box which contains the sculpture. Even something as small and light as an origami hummingbird can damage a sculpture during shipping when packed inside the inner box.
1 Find a box big enough to fit your sculpture with lots of room to spare. Cut a piece of cardboard that’s a little bit smaller than one side of your box. Set your sculpture aside and open the flaps on both sides of the box.
2 Poke two holes through the piece of cardboard and the side of your box, at the front right corner and at the back left corner.
3 Mark the piece of cardboard and the box so you’ll have a reference to align the holes you made in step 2.
4 Poke two more holes on the piece of cardboard, very close to the base of your arrangement. If you’re shipping a very large sculpture you may want to poke four holes.
5 Use a twist tie to secure the sculpture to the piece of cardboard.
6 Secure the flaps on one side of the box by overlapping them. Align the piece of cardboard to the box using the mark you made. Thread a twist tie through the closest holes you made in the piece of cardboard and then through the corresponding holes you made in the side of the box, and then twist them to secure the piece of cardboard to the box. Close and secure the flaps on this side of the box with tape, and then open the flaps on the opposite side.
8 Write instructions for the recipient on the outside of the box as shown. They should open one side of the box and then cut the twist ties to release the piece of cardboard from the box. Make sure the twist ties are tight by twisting them a couple more times, and then secure their ends with small pieces of tape.
7 Repeat step 6 on this side of the piece of cardboard, and then close and secure these flaps with tape.
