The Way We Eat Now

The Way We Eat Now
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We never snacked like this and we never binged like this. We never had so many superfoods, or so many chips. We were never quite so confused about food, and what it actually is.This is a book about the good, the terrible and the avocado toast. A riveting exploration of the hidden forces behind what we eat, The Way We Eat Now explains how modern food, in all its complexity, has transformed our lives and our world. To re-establish eating as something that gives us both joy and health, we need to find out where we are right now, how we got here and what it is that we share.Award-winning food writer Bee Wilson explores everything from meal replacements such as Huel, the disappearing lunch hour, the rise of veganism, the lack of time to cook and prepare food and the rapid increase in food delivery services. And Bee provides her own doable strategies for how we might navigate the many options available to us to have a balanced, happier relationship with the food we eat.

Оглавление

Би Уилсон. The Way We Eat Now

Copyright

Dedication

Epigraph

INTRODUCTION: The Gatherers and the Hunted

1: The Food Transition

And they never went hungry again

Where the balance falls

Stage four

The Global Standard Diet

The mythical banana kingdom of Iceland

A short history of eating too much

Bending the curve

What we ate next

2: Mismatch

The thin-fat baby

The thirst conundrum

The stigmatised majority

3: Edible Economics

A hidden sea of oil

Never tasted before

Bread economics

Engel’s law

Give us this day our daily meat

Value for money

4: Out of Time

The death of the lunch hour

Like a rest in music

Wasting time or wasting food

The rhythm of modern life

The woman who never snacks

Snack foods for the world

‘He’s not really big on food’

The healthy snack

Eating alone together

5: The Changeable Eater

What’s salsa?

New but not really

Now comes quinoa

Fads and frauds

6: Dinner Without Duty

The democratic restaurant

Calories and convenience

Dinner on a bike

Self-service

The inequalities of choice

7: Eating by the Rules

Bleeding beetroot

The healthiest of all possible diets

The enigma of the protein bar

Beyond food

The opposite of a cucumber

8: The Return to Cooking

The dabbler cook

Cooking by numbers

The land of cooks

New kitchen rules

9: Crossing the Bridge

The sweet green grass

Killing the cartoon characters

‘If I had maths results like this I’d be out of a job’

Celebrate with olives

The joy of greens

Recipe for a seed

EPILOGUE: New Food on Old Plates

Eat new food on old plates

Don’t drink anything ‘like water’ unless it is water

Devote less attention to snacks and more to meals

Change your appetites

Shift the balance

Try to eat in ratios, not in absolutes

Eat protein and vegetables first and carbohydrates last

Vary what you eat

Find time for food

Learn to cook the foods that you want yourself to eat

Have unfashionable tastes

Know what you are eating

Use your senses

Footnotes. INTRODUCTION: The Gatherers and the Hunted

4: Out of Time

References. INTRODUCTION: The Gatherers and the Hunted

1: The Food Transition

2: Mismatch

3: Edible Economics

4: Out of Time

5: The Changeable Eater

6: Dinner Without Duty

7: Eating by the Rules

8: The Return to Cooking

9: Crossing the Bridge

EPILOGUE: New Food on Old Plates

Bibliography

Illustrations

Index

Acknowledgements

About the Publisher

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For Leo

Walt Whitman, ‘Song of Myself’

.....

It might surprise you to learn (it did me) that the most average place in the world, food-wise, is not the United States, which is actually pretty extreme in the composition of its diet. To take one example, Americans have access to around twice the global average calories from meat (around 1,000 calories as against 500). Americans also consume far more sugar and sweeteners than the global mean.

To find the most average eaters in the world, you need to look to some of the middle-income countries of the developing world, especially in Latin America. These countries seem to hold up a mirror to the way food consumption is now shifting to a global mean. Purely in terms of the crops consumed, one of the most average places in the world for food is Colombia. Here, the top four sources of calories used to be maize followed by animal products followed by sugar and rice. Now the order is changed. Top of the list of Colombian foods are animal products (518 calories) followed by sugar (404 calories), then maize (368 calories) and rice (334 calories). Compared with the 1960s, people in Colombia have access to far more wheat and sugar and more refined oils.29

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